PREFACE

Good cooking is one of the creative arts. Early in life I was fortunate enough to learn from the accomplished and dedicated cooks around me — mother, grandmother and aunts — and found it was one of the most rewarding ways to express myself and give enjoyment to others at the same time. I also discovered that there is no real mystery about being able to cook well — no magic potions or secret charms — just a healthy interest in eating well and getting the most pleasure possible from each meal. A reliable cookbook is also a great help.

It is an exciting opportunity to be re-launching my biggest cookbook some thirty-six years after its inception. My daughters, Nina and Debbie, themselves very fine cooks and keen travellers and researchers, have each excelled in assisting me to bring the next generation of The Complete Asian Cookbook to you. The ‘makeover’ consists of a new layout, stunning photos, additional recipes and an updated glossary.

Why mess with a classic, I hear you ask? I have seen great changes in the availability of fresh ingredients, as well as the appliances with which to process them. The new book reflects these changes. With the passage of time comes a new generation of young cooks testing their wings, visiting what used to be impossible tourist destinations and returning with a desire to recreate their culinary experiences. Some may even be bold enough to kidnap their parents’ tattered copy of the original Complete Asian Cookbook as they move out of home.

For me, the excitement of cooking is found in creating new dishes, improvising on old familiar ones and in trying new recipes from less familiar cuisines. Presenting such meals to an appreciative family and friends becomes an experience to be shared and remembered with pleasure.

My aim in writing this book has been to make it possible for keen cooks everywhere to explore the cooking of Asia, and to prove that real Eastern meals can be produced in Western kitchens. I have tested and re-tested these recipes to ensure that the flavour and character of each dish is preserved, while trying to cut back on some of the labour-intensive traditional preparation methods.

Food, of course, crosses geographical and political boundaries, and dividing lines between one culinary tradition and another are frequently imprecise. Initially I was going to call this book Southeast Asian Cooking, but that would, by definition, have excluded India, Korea, Japan, China and Sri Lanka. Hence my choice of The Complete Asian Cookbook, which perhaps arbitrarily draws a line on the western side of the Indian subcontinent, and leaves out the interesting cuisines of Afghanistan, Iran and Turkey. But the line had to be drawn somewhere!

For reasons of convenience, and not through political ignorance or bias, I have grouped the foods of India and Pakistan, Bangladesh and Kashmir in one chapter. The chapter on China draws heavily on my experience in Hong Kong, but in addition to the world-famous Cantonese cuisine the cooking of other mainland provinces is well represented. Much of Singapore’s excellent Chinese food is also found in Hong Kong, so to avoid repetition I have made a feature of the island republic’s Nonya dishes. Many dishes in Malaysia and Indonesia are the same, or bear striking similarities, so I have tried to represent the best of both countries.

I hope that in using this book you may share some of the pleasure that I have had in putting it together and refining it over the years. Start tonight, and dine abroad in the Asian country of your choice. Enjoyment and a whole new world of cooking (and a touch of adventure!) await you. It is with great pleasure that I invite enthusiasts of Asian food into this new edition. If food be the music of love, cook on!

CHARMAINE SOLOMON

DEBORAH SOLOMON

Imagine travelling throughout Asia, visiting food markets and meeting journalists, restaurateurs and home cooks, and being shown through the best kitchens and finest hotels in the region. Sounds like a dream come true? Well, it was.

My role in the writing of the original Complete Asian Cookbook made me the envy of my school friends. Although only a teenager, I jetted off with my mother as she garnered first-hand food experiences in Asian countries she had never visited before and renewed her relationship with many others.

All I had to do to earn my berth on this fabulous journey was to look after luggage and plane tickets, take photos and make copious notes as we travelled. This was the first time I had left Australia since my arrival fifteen years earlier. Although Asia is in my blood, it seemed incredibly foreign — both shocking and exciting at the same time. Thankfully, the food and I spoke the same language. Mum put in an amazing amount of work testing recipes in the family kitchen and writing them up on a typewriter using threeply paper plus carbon. It was a moment of great pride when we first held a copy of this book. Weighing about the same as a newborn baby, Mum joked that its gestation period was as long as an elephant’s pregnancy.

The baby is now over thirty years old and has been given a significant makeover. There are new recipes and cooking hints, but in essence it is still the same book that sold millions of copies worldwide, making Charmaine Solomon a household name synonymous with authentic, reliable and easy-to-follow recipes.

As Mum said all those years ago when the title was mooted by the publishers, ‘No cookbook is ever complete!’, but this one comes close. It will be a joy to have a new and updated copy of this classic in my kitchen, ready to receive its anointing with cooking oils and curry stains to bear testament to happy meals with family and friends. That’s what makes any cookbook complete.

NINA HARRIS

A loving family is a blessing in itself. That my Mum is Charmaine Solomon is a bonus. Thanks to my parents — both excellent cooks — I developed a discerning palate and a curiosity about food that sometimes borders on obsession. It was an honour to work with Mum on The Encyclopedia of Asian Food and now, to help her review The Complete Asian Cookbook. I am grateful for this opportunity to bring a 20th century classic into the 21st century.

Working on this project has given me renewed respect for the amazing accomplishment this book represents — the result of one woman’s tenacity and determination. In 1975, when it was first published, some Asian countries were not on the tourist map. Unable to venture behind the bamboo curtain, my mother was able to use the reporting skills she developed as a young journalist in Sri Lanka to interview refugees about the food and cooking traditions of their homelands. What an enormous undertaking all those years ago, to research so thoroughly without the benefit of the internet. There is no doubt that she succeeded … with lots of loving support from my Dad! He would be proud to see its re-birth.

In the years between, many cookbooks on the subject have come and gone — though arguably none as complete or authoritative. This volume remains unchallenged in its scope and ability to instruct and inform in an engagingly conversational way. The reliability of its recipes — all thoroughly tested — is unsurpassed!

Those who have owned this book in its earlier incarnations will welcome the new recipes alongside their old favourites. Working through the manuscript has reminded me how many more wonderful recipes there are to be explored than those on the oil-spattered pages of my original copy. It’s about time I spattered the rest. Let’s cook!

CONTENTS

Title Page

Preface

Introduction

India and Pakistan

Sri Lanka

Indonesia

Malaysia

Singapore

Burma

Thailand

Cambodia and Laos

Vietnam

The Philippines

China

Korea

Japan

Glossary

Copyright Page

INTRODUCTION

Just as France has its robust country fare as well as its subtle haute cuisine, so too does Asia have a range of culinary delights that can be simple, complex, tantalising — and compulsive! Not all Asian food is exotic or wildly unusual. Noodle and rice dishes are as commonplace as the pastas and potatoes of the West. Many of the ingredients will be familiar to anyone who knows their way around a kitchen. The main differences have arisen just as they have arisen in other parts of the world — through the use of available ingredients. Thus there is a reliance on some herbs and spices less well known in the West. Meat is often replaced by the nutritious by-products of the soy bean and by protein-rich fish sauces and shrimp pastes.

True, some of the more unusual ingredients take a little getting used to. But once you have overcome what resistance you may have towards the idea of raw fish or dried shrimp paste or seaweed, you’ll find that these (and other) ingredients are no less delicious than — and certainly as exciting as — those you use in your favourite dishes.

The introduction to each chapter will give you a good idea of what to expect in the way of out-of-the-ordinary ingredients. Almost without exception, those called for are readily available in most large supermarkets or Asian grocery stores; in the rare case they are not, suitable substitutes have been given.

Those of you already familiar with some of the Asian cuisines will, I hope, find recipes to interest and excite you in these pages; and I think you will be tempted to explore cuisines with which you are less well acquainted. For those of you who are coming to Asian cooking for the first time, I have taken care to make sure the essential steps are clear and precise, with detailed instructions on the following pages for cooking the much-used ingredients (such as rice, noodles, coconut milk and chilli), and pointers on how to joint a chicken, portion fish and select and season a wok.

For most countries the names of the recipes have been given in the dominant or most common language or dialect of the country concerned, followed by the English name in smaller type. In the case of China, the dialect used is Cantonese, for the cooking of Kwangtung Province is the Chinese cuisine best known in the West. Filipino names are generally given in Tagalog, although there are a few Spanish names as well. The names in India are mostly in Hindi (though don’t be surprised to see the word ‘mutton’ — it was adopted by the Indians from the British in the same way that the latter adopted topee and pukka and many other Indian words).

In Malaysia and Indonesia, some years ago, a new unified system of spelling was introduced. The ‘ch’ in Malay and the ‘tj’ in Indonesian were replaced by the letter ‘c’ — thus blachan became blacan and tjumi-tjumi (squid) became cumi-cumi; the letters ‘oe’ in Indonesian became the letter ’u’ thus ulek instead of oelek; and the letters ‘dj’ in Indonesian became the letter ‘j’ — thus bajak ínstead of badjak. Generally, the letter ‘a’ in Asian words is pronounced as the ‘a’ in father, never as in cat; the letter ‘u’ is rather like the ‘oo’ in look, never as in duty; and the letters ‘th’ are generally pronounced like an ordinary ‘t’ (slightly aspirated), never as in breath or breathe.

The pronunciation of Burmese names can be confusing. Just remember that the letters ‘ky’ sound somewhere between a ‘ch’ and a ‘j’, so that kyazan is pronounced ‘chahzan’ and kyetha as ‘chetha’. The letter ‘k’ in the middle of a word is silent; and the letters ‘t’ and ‘ke’ at the end of a word cut short the preceding vowel, so lethoke sounds like ‘letho’ and gin thoke sounds like ‘jin tho’.

EATING FOR HEALTH

Most Asian food is healthy. Many spices and ingredients such as turmeric, garlic and ginger have proven health-giving properties. However, with today’s emphasis on weight control I have made modifications in the quantity and type of fat used for cooking. I have found it is possible to get very good results using almost half the amount of fat called for in many traditional dishes.

Ghee, or clarified butter, is the main cooking medium in North lndia. It keeps without refrigeration because it is pure butterfat with all the milk solids removed. It is essential both for flavour and for its ability to reach high temperatures without burning. I use it for flavour, but substitute light oils for a proportion of the ghee. In some recipes it is not possible to use substitutes without spoiling the end product — for instance, in Indian sweetmeats or biscuits such as nan khatai. Don’t substitute margarine or vegetable shortening in these recipes, for you will not get the desired results.

In the food of Thailand, the Philippines and certain other Southeast Asian countries, lard is used as a cooking medium. In my kitchen I substitute a light vegetable oil. The flavour will be slightly different, but the way it sits on your stomach will be different too. Coconut oil, used almost exclusively in Sri Lanka, Malaysia and other coconut-growing countries, is now, in its extra virgin form, considered a healthy oil. If you are battling high cholesterol, when using coconut milk, cut down on the quantity and substitute a similar amount of skim milk.

All of these recipes are adaptable to low-fat diets with very little sacrifice of flavour, since most of the exotic tastes come from herbs, spices and sauces.

COOKING WITH A WOK

If I had to choose one cooking pan to be marooned on a desert island with, I’d choose a wok. It would cope with any kind of food that happened to be available. In it you can boil, braise, fry and steam, and while you can do all these things in pans you already possess, the wok is almost indispensable for the stir-frying technique that many Asian dishes call for. Because of its rounded shape and high, flaring sides you can toss with abandon and stirfry ingredients without their leaping over the sides; and because the wok is made of thin iron you get the quick, high heat necessary to much Asian cooking.

Though a wok is best used with gas, it is possible to get good results with electricity. Because quick, high heat is required in stir-frying, turn the hotplate on to the highest heat and place the wok directly on it; it is possible to buy woks with a flat base for better contact, or invest in an electric wok where the heating element is built into the pan. The 30–35 cm wok is most useful. You can cook small quantities in a large wok, but not vice versa.

The wok made of stainless steel is a modern innovation, but a modestly priced iron wok heats up quickly and evenly and, if you remember to dry it well after washing, it will not rust.

Before use, an iron wok must be seasoned. Prepare it by washing thoroughly in hot water and detergent. Some woks, when new, have a lacquer-like coating, which must be removed by almost filling the wok with water, adding about 2 tablespoons bicarbonate of soda and boiling for about 15 minutes. This softens the coating and it can be scrubbed off with a fine scourer. If some of the coating still remains, repeat the process until the wok is free from any lacquer on the inside. To season the new wok, dry it well, put over gentle heat and, when the metal heats up, wipe over the entire inner surface with some crumpled paper towel dipped in peanut oil. Repeat a number of times with more oil-soaked paper until the paper stays clean. Allow to cool. Your wok is now ready for use.

After cooking in it, do not scrub the wok with steel wool or abrasives of any kind. Soak in hot water to soften any remaining food, then rub gently with a sponge, using hot water and detergent — this preserves the surface. Make sure the wok is quite dry, because if moisture stays left in the pan it will rust. Heat the wok gently to ensure complete dryness, then rub over the inside surface with lightly oiled paper. A well-used wok will soon turn black, but this is normal — and the more a wok is used, the better it is to cook in.

DEEP-FRYING

A wok is an efficient pan for deep-frying as it has a wider surface area than a regular frying pan. Be sure that the wok is sitting securely on the stove. Fill the wok no more than two-thirds full and heat the oil over medium heat.

To check the temperature for deep-frying, use a kitchen thermometer if you have one — on average, 180°C is the correct temperature. To test without a thermometer, a cube of bread dropped into the oil will brown in 15 seconds at 180°C, and in 10 seconds if the temperature is 190°C.

The higher temperature may be suitable to use for foods that don’t have great thickness, such as pappadams or seafood tempura, but if something needs to cook through, such as chicken pieces, use a lower temperature of around 160°C (in this case a cube of bread will take nearly 30 seconds to brown). If the temperature is not hot enough, the food will absorb oil and become greasy. If you overheat the oil it could catch fire.

Use refined peanut oil, light olive oil, canola or rice bran oil and lower the food in gently with tongs or a slotted spoon so as not to splash yourself with hot oil. Removing the fried food to a colander lined with crumpled paper towel will help to remove any excess oil.

After cooling, oil may be poured through a fine metal skimmer and stored in an airtight jar away from the light. It may be used within a month or so, adding fresh oil to it when heating. After a couple of uses, it will need to be disposed of properly.

COCONUT MILK

I have heard many people refer to the clear liquid inside a coconut as ‘coconut milk’. I have even read it in books. So, at the risk of boring those who already know, let’s establish right away what coconut milk really is. It’s the milky liquid extracted from the grated flesh of mature fresh coconuts or reconstituted from desiccated coconut.

Coconut milk is an important ingredient in the cookery of nearly all Asian countries. It is used in soups, curries, savoury meat or seafood mixtures and all kinds of desserts. It has an unmistakable flavour and richness and should be used in recipes that call for it.

When the first edition of this book was published in 1975, the only good way to obtain coconut milk outside the countries where coconuts grow was to extract it yourself. These days coconut milk is widely available in tins from supermarkets. Problematically, the quality between brands varies enormously so it is worth comparing a few brands and checking the ingredients list — it should only have coconut and water in it. It should smell and taste fresh and clean and be neither watery nor solid. It is better to avoid brands that include stabilisers and preservatives. Shake the tin well before opening to disperse the richness evenly throughout. Brands in Tetra Paks tend not to be lumpy or watery.

Delicious as it is, coconut milk is full of saturated fat. With this in mind, I suggest that only when coconut cream is required should you use the tinned coconut milk undiluted. Where a recipe calls for thick coconut milk, dilute the tinned product with half its volume in water (for example, 1 cup of tinned coconut milk and ½ cup water). Where coconut milk is required, dilute the tinned coconut milk with an equal amount of water. Where thin coconut milk is required, dilute the tinned coconut milk with two parts by volume of water (for example, 1 cup of tinned coconut milk and 2 cups water).

If you would like to make your own coconut milk, the extraction method is included below. Traditionally, coconut milk is extracted in two stages — the first yield being the ‘thick milk’, the second extraction producing ‘thin milk’. Use a mixture of first and second extracts when a recipe calls for coconut milk unless thick milk or thin milk is specified. Sometimes they are added at different stages of the recipe. Some recipes use ‘coconut cream’. This is the rich layer that rises to the top of the thick milk (or first extract) after it has been left to stand for a while.

MAKING COCONUT MILK FROM SCRATCH

Using desiccated coconut

MAKES 375 ML (1½ CUPS) THICK COCONUT MILK

MAKES 500 ML (2 CUPS) THIN COCONUT MILK

Many cooks use desiccated coconut for making coconut milk. It is much easier and quicker to prepare than grating fresh coconut, and in curries you cannot tell the difference.

180 g (2 cups) desiccated coconut

1.25 ml (5 cups) hot water

Put the desiccated coconut into a large bowl and pour over 625 ml (2½ cups) of the hot water then allow to cool to lukewarm. Knead firmly with your hands for a few minutes, then strain through a fine sieve or a piece of muslin (cheesecloth), pressing or squeezing out as much liquid as possible; this is the thick coconut milk.

Repeat the process using the same coconut and remaining hot water. This extract will yield the thin coconut milk. (Because of the moisture retained in the coconut the first time, the second extract usually yields more milk.)

Alternatively, to save time, you can use an electric blender or food processor. Put the desiccated coconut and 625 ml (2½ cups) of the hot water into the blender and process for 30 seconds, then strain through a fine sieve or piece of muslin (cheesecloth), squeezing out all the moisture. Repeat, using the same coconut and remaining hot water.

Note: Sometimes a richer milk is required. For this, hot milk replaces the water and only the first extract is used. However, a second extract will yield a flavoursome and reasonably rich grade of coconut milk that can be used in soups, curries or other dishes.

Using fresh coconut

MAKES 375 ML (1½ CUPS) THICK COCONUT MILK

MAKES 500 ML (2 CUPS) THIN COCONUT MILK

In Asian countries, fresh coconut is used and a coconut grater is standard equipment in every household. Grating fresh coconut is easy if you have the right implement for the job. However, if you are able to get fresh coconuts and do not have such an implement, use a food processor to pulverise the coconut and then extract the milk.

1 fresh coconut

1 litre (4 cups) water or milk

Preheat the oven to 180°C (Gas 4). Crack the coconut in half by hitting it with the back of a heavy kitchen chopper. Once a crack has appeared, insert the thin edge of the blade and prise it open. Save the sweet liquid inside for drinking. If you do not own a coconut grater, put the two halves on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes, or until the flesh starts to come away from the shell. Lift it out with the point of a knife, and peel away the thin dark brown skin that clings to the white portion. Cut into chunks.

Put the coconut flesh into a food processor with 500 ml (2 cups) of the water and process until the coconut is completely pulverised. Strain the liquid using a sieve or muslin (cheesecloth) to extract the thick coconut milk. Repeat this process using the same coconut and remaining water to extract the thin milk. Leftover freshly extracted or bought coconut milk may be frozen — ice cube trays are ideal.

CHILLIES

Fresh chillies are used in most Asian food, particularly that of Southeast Asia. If mild flavouring is required, simply wash the chilli and add it to the dish when simmering, then lift out and discard the chilli before serving. But if you want the authentic fiery quality of the dish you need to seed and chop the chillies first. To do this, remove the stalk of each chilli and cut in half lengthways to remove the central membrane and seeds. The seeds are the hottest part of the chilli. If you wish to make fiery hot sambals, the chillies are used seeds and all — generally ground or puréed in a food processor.

If you handle chillies without wearing gloves, wash your hands thoroughly with soap and warm water afterwards. Chillies can be so hot that even two or three good washings do not stop the tingling sensation, which can go on for hours. If this happens, remember to keep your hands well away from your eyes, lips or where the skin is especially sensitive. If you have more chillies than you need, they can be wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen, then added to dishes and used without thawing.

Dried chillies come in many shapes and sizes. Generally I use the large variety. If frying them as an accompaniment to a meal, use them whole, dropping them straight into hot oil. If they are being soaked and ground as part of the spicing for a sambal, sauce or curry, first cut off the stalk end and shake the chilli so that the seeds fall out. They are safe enough to handle until they have been soaked and ground, but if you handle them after this has been done, remember to wash your hands at once with soap and water.

Dried chillies, though they give plenty of heat and flavour, do not have the same volatile oils as fresh chillies and so do not have as much effect on the skin.

RICE VARIETIES

One of the oldest grains in the world, and a staple food of more than half the world’s population, rice is by far the most important item in the daily diet throughout Asia.

There are thousands of varieties. Agricultural scientists involved in producing new and higher yielding strains of rice will pick differences that are not apparent to even the most enthusiastic rice eater. But, from the Asian consumer’s viewpoint, rice has qualities that a Westerner might not even notice — colour, fragrance, flavour, texture.

Rice buyers are so trained to recognise different types of rice that they can hold a few grains in the palm to warm it, sniff it through the hole made by thumb and forefinger, and know its age, variety, even perhaps where it was grown. Old rice is sought after and prized more than new rice because it tends to cook fluffy and separate, even if the cook absent-mindedly adds too much water. Generally speaking, the white polished grains — whether long and fine or small and pearly (much smaller than what we know as short-grain rice) — are considered best.

The desirable features of rice are not the same in every Asian country. In India and Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Burma, fluffy, dry rice is preferred. Long, thin grains are considered best and rice is cooked with salt. The most dreadful thing a cook could do is forget to salt the rice.

In Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam, rice is preferred dry and separate, but it is cooked without salt.

Further east, medium- or short-grain varieties come into their own. In Laos, Cambodia, China, Korea and Japan they prefer rice that is perfectly cooked but not dry and fluffy. Glossy, pearly grains are desired, each one well defined, but with a tendency to cling together so that it can easily be picked up with chopsticks. Again, no salt is used. Laotians are different from all other rice eaters in that they prefer sticky or glutinous rice to other varieties, whereas in most countries sticky rice is used only for sweets or leaf-wrapped snacks.

Rice is sold either packaged or in bulk. Polished white rice is available as long-, medium- or short-grain. Unpolished or natural rice is available as medium- or long-grain; and in many countries it is possible to buy an aromatic table rice grown in Bangladesh, called basmati rice. In dishes where spices and flavourings are added and cooked with the rice, any type of long-grain rice may be used. In each recipe the type of rice best suited is recommended, but as a general rule, remember that medium-grain or short-grain rice gives a clinging result and long-grain rice, properly cooked, is fluffy and separate.

PREPARING RICE

To wash or not to wash? Among Asian cooks there will never be agreement on whether rice should be washed or not. Some favour washing the rice several times, then leaving it to soak for a while. Other good cooks insist that washing rice is stupid and wasteful, taking away what vitamins and nutrients are left after the milling process.

I have found that most rice sold in Australia does not need washing but that rice imported in bulk and packaged here picks up a lot of dust and dirt and needs thorough washing and draining.

In a recipe, if rice is to be fried before any liquid is added, the washed rice must be allowed enough time to thoroughly drain and dry, between 30 and 60 minutes. Rice to be steamed must be soaked overnight. Rice for cooking by the absorption method may be washed (or not), drained briefly and added to the pan immediately.

COOKING RICE

For a fail-safe way of cooking rice perfectly every time, put the required amount of rice and water into a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid (see the measures above right). Bring to the boil over high heat, cover, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, uncover the pan and allow the steam to escape for a few minutes before fluffing up the rice with a fork.

Transfer the rice to a serving dish with a slotted metal spoon — don’t use a wooden spoon or it will crush the grains. You will notice that long-grain rice absorbs considerably more water than short-grain rice, so the two kinds are not interchangeable in recipes. Though details are given in every rice recipe, here is a general rule regarding proportions of rice and liquid.

Long-grain rice

200 g (1 cup) rice use 500 ml (2 cups) water

400 g (2 cups) rice use 875 ml (3½ cups) water

600 g (3 cups) rice use 1.25 litres (5 cups) water

Use 2 cups water for the first cup of rice, then 1½ cups water for each additional cup of rice.

Short- or medium-grain rice

220 g (1 cup) rice use 375 ml (1½ cups) water

440 g (2 cups) rice use 625 ml (2½ cups) water

660 g (3 cups) rice use 875 ml (3½ cups) water

Use 1½ cups water for the first cup of rice, then 1 cup water for each additional cup of rice.

NOODLES

There are many different types of noodles available and different Asian countries have specific uses and preferences. Almost all of these varieties are available from large supermarkets or Asian grocery stores.

Dried egg noodles: Perhaps the most popular noodles, these are made of wheat flour. Dried egg noodles must be soaked in hot water for about 10 minutes before cooking. This is not mentioned in the cooking instructions, yet it does make cooking them so much easier — as the noodles soften the strands spread and separate and the noodles cook more evenly than when they are dropped straight into boiling water.

A spoonful of oil in the water prevents boiling over. When water returns to the boil, cook fine noodles for 2–3 minutes and thick noodles for 3–4 minutes. Do not overcook. Drain immediately, then run cold water through the noodles to rinse off any excess starch and cool them so they don’t continue to cook in their own heat. Drain thoroughly. To reheat, pour boiling water over the noodles in a colander. Serve with stir-fried dishes or use in soups and braised noodle dishes.

Dried rice noodles: There are various kinds of flat rice noodles. Depending on the type of noodle and thickness of the strands, they have to be soaked in cold water for 30–60 minutes before cooking. Drain, then drop into a saucepan of boiling water and cook for 6–10 minutes, testing every minute after the first 6 minutes so you will know when they are done. As soon as they are tender, drain in a colander and rinse well in cold running water. Drain once more. They can then be fried or heated in soup before serving.

Dried rice vermicelli: Rice vermicelli has very fine strands and cooks very quickly. Drop into boiling water and cook for 2–3 minutes only. Drain well. Serve in soups or with dishes that have a good amount of sauce. Or, if a crisp garnish is required, use rice vermicelli straight from the packet and deep-fry small amounts for just a few seconds. It will puff and become white as soon as it is immersed in the oil if it is hot enough. Lift out quickly on a slotted spoon or wire strainer and drain on paper towels before serving.

Dried cellophane noodles: Also known as bean starch noodles, these dried noodles need to be soaked in hot water for 20 minutes, then drained and cooked in a saucepan of boiling water for 15 minutes, or until tender. For use as a crisp garnish, deep-fry them in hot oil straight from the packet, as for rice vermicelli (above). In Japan they have a similar fine translucent noodle, known as harusame.

PREPARING SOFT-FRIED NOODLES

After the noodles have been boiled and drained, spread them on a large baking tray lined with paper towel and leave them to dry for at least 30 minutes — a little peanut oil may be sprinkled over them to prevent sticking. Heat 2 tablespoons each of peanut oil and sesame oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan until hot, then add a handful of noodles and cook until golden on one side. Turn and cook the other side until golden, then remove to a plate. Repeat with the remaining noodles. It may be necessary to add more oil to the wok if a large quantity of noodles is being fried, but make sure the fresh oil is very hot first. Serve with beef, pork, poultry or vegetable dishes.

PREPARING CRISP-FRIED NOODLES

Rice vermicelli and cellophane noodles can be fried in hot oil straight from the packet. Egg noodles need to be cooked first, then drained and spread out on a large baking tray lined with paper towel to dry for at least 30 minutes — a little peanut oil can be sprinkled over them to prevent sticking. Heat sufficient peanut oil in a wok or heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the noodles, in batches, until crisp and golden brown. Drain on paper towel. These crisp noodles are used mainly as a garnish.

PREPARING WHOLE CHICKENS

JOINTING A CHICKEN

I have often referred to cutting a chicken into serving pieces suitable for a curry. This is simply cutting the pieces smaller than joints so that the spices can more readily penetrate and flavour the meat.

To joint a chicken, first cut off the thighs and drumsticks, then separate the drumsticks from the thighs. Cut off the wings and divide them at the middle joint (wing tips may be added to a stock but do not count as a joint). The breast is divided down the centre into two, then across into four pieces — do not start cooking the breast pieces at the same time as the others, but add them later, as breast meat has a tendency to become dry if cooked for too long.

A 1.5 kg chicken, for instance, can be jointed, then broken down further into serving pieces. The thighs are cut into two with a heavy cleaver; the back is cut into four pieces and used in the curry, though not counted as serving pieces because there is very little meat on them. Neck and giblets are also included to give extra flavour.

CHOPPING A CHICKEN THE CHINESE WAY

After cooking, a whole chicken is divided through the centre lengthways with a sharp, heavy cleaver. Then turn each half, cut side down, on a sturdy wooden chopping board and chop crossways into 3.5 cm strips. Reassemble on a serving plate. If this seems a formidable task, start by cutting off the drumstick, thigh and wing. Chop each of these into two pieces. Then use the cleaver to cut the chicken through the body. With a good Chinese cleaver this is not as difficult as it sounds.

PREPARING WHOLE FISH

CUTTING FISH FILLETS INTO SERVING PIECES

Fish fillets are of varying thickness, length and density. For example, whole fillets of flathead can be dipped in tempura batter and will cook in less than a minute in hot oil, whereas a fillet of ling or trevalla will need to be cut into 3 cm strips for the same recipe,

Let common sense prevail when portioning fish fillets, but always remember that fish is cooked when the flesh turns opaque when flaked with a fork or knife.

CUTTING FISH STEAKS INTO SERVING PIECES

Depending on the size of the fish, each steak may need to be cut into four, six or eight pieces. Once again, smaller portions are better, for they allow flavours to penetrate and you can allow more than one piece per person. The accompanying sketch shows how to divide fish steaks — small ones into four pieces, medium-sized ones into six pieces and really large steaks into eight pieces.

INDIA & PAKISTAN

Most Westerners, when asked what food they associate with the Indian subcontinent, will say ‘curry’, but not every spiced dish is a curry, and curry is not just one dish. It embraces a whole range of dishes, each distinctly different according to the spices and herbs used in varying combinations.

Spices, imaginatively used, are the outstanding feature of Indian and Pakistani cookery — subtle or pungent, hot or mild, there is something to suit every palate.

Much of the cooking of northwestern India and Pakistan (formerly West Pakistan) is so similar that I, for one, would hesitate to say which dishes belong to one country and which to the other. Pakistan, being a Muslim country, uses no pork but it boasts a diet rich in other meats and has as many sumptuous biriani and pilau as does the celebrated Moghul cuisine of the neighbouring Indian provinces. Lamb is predominant in both countries, and both use spicing and ingredients such as yoghurt and ghee in dishes that are elaborate without being hot; both, too, rely more heavily on wheatflour chapati than on rice.

Bangladesh (formerly East Pakistan) is more than 1500 kilometres (900 miles) from Pakistan. With the eastern lndian province of Bengal, of which it was once a part, it shares more pungent spicing, a tendency to cook in mustard oil rather than ghee, and places an emphasis on a variety of seafood instead of lamb.

The culinary offerings of southern lndia are different again. The coconut plays a commanding role, rice largely replaces wheat, mustard seeds are widely used as a spice, and chillies come into their own — as anyone who has tackled a really hot Madras or Mysore curry will readily acknowledge!

Throughout the subcontinent, different religions impose food taboos that are rigidly adhered to: Hindus will not eat beef, Muslims will not eat pork, Buddhists will not take life and some will not even crack an egg. Many Indians are strictly vegetarian, enjoying a cuisine that is in a class by itself and which could convert the most dedicated meat eater. It includes superb curries; bartha (purées) and bhaji (fried vegetable); pakorha (fritters) and vadai (rissoles of lentils and pulses); homemade bread with spiced vegetable fillings; high-protein dishes based on lentils and homemade cheeses; and rich sweetmeats made with vegetables and fruit.

When I think of Indian sweets I think of an Indian sweetmaker I knew. He was over six feet tall, had a ruddy complexion, dark hair and dark flashing eyes. I guessed his age at around sixty, but he stood erect and looked strong and healthy; he was one of the proudest, most dignified men I have ever met. I cannot remember ever seeing him smile. While not surly, he saw no reason to smile at his customers. Was it not enough that they were able to purchase the exquisite work of his hands?

His shop, which was nestled close to a Hindu temple covered by stone carvings of gods, goddesses, mortals and animals, was stark and unrelieved by any kind of decoration. Inside, there was only a glass showcase to protect the sweetmeats from the ever-present flies. Further inside, partly hidden by a curtain, was the small stone fireplace on the stone floor where he squatted on his heels to prepare his delicacies. In the bazaar area were a variety of lesser sweets, but he made only the expensive, exquisite, rich varieties and his clientele knew they were privileged to taste the work of a master craftsman and cheerfully paid his high prices.

Eastern sweetmakers are a race unto themselves. They guard their secrets as jealously as they guard their money and yet, somehow, the secrets leak out. Recipes, good and not quite so good, are printed in cookbooks. But they are no great threat to the sweetmakers, for who would take the trouble to make these morsels? As long as I lived in the East, I was content to buy the sweetmeats. But when we settled in a Western country at a time when such sweets were unobtainable, I knew it was necessary to do something about it.

And so began the search for recipes, the repeated experiments, the ultimate triumph. Was it worth it? Oh yes! Once you have tasted rose and cardamom-scented rasgula, barfiand gulab jaman, you will not rest until you know that you can make the glorious confections yourself. If you have a sweet tooth and a taste for the exotic, you will enjoy these recipes as much as I do.

SERVING AND EATING INDIAN AND PAKISTANI MEALS

In southern India, banana leaves are often used as plates, but more universal is the thali service — the thali being a circular metal tray on which are placed a number of small bowls called katori, also made of metal. Rice or chapati are placed directly on the tray; curries and other accompaniments are served in the bowls. The food is eaten with the fingers of the right hand only, for it is considered impolite to use the ‘unclean’ left hand to touch food.

Some orthodox Hindus feel that spoons, forks and plates that are used again and again are quite unhygienic, but in most Indian cities Western customs have taken over and food is served on dinner plates and eaten with a spoon and fork.

Rice is served first in the centre of the plate, then various curries and accompaniments are placed around it. The rice is the base, and only one curry should be tasted with each mouthful of rice in order to appreciate the individual spicing of each dish.

The matter of proportions is all-important. One needs to forget the Western idea of a large amount of meat or fish with a small amount of rice. Rice is the main part of the meal and curries of meat, fish or vegetables should be served in much smaller portions. There is wisdom in this too, because when food is spiced it needs the bland background of rice to delight the palate and placate the digestion.

When eating Indian breads with a meal, there is no choice but to eat with one’s fingers. Tear off a piece of chapati or paratha, use it to scoop up the accompaniment, fold it over neatly, then eat it. Just as Chinese or Japanese food tastes better eaten with chopsticks, Indian food tastes better eaten with the fingers. Finger bowls are provided, of course.

One of the other main features that sets an Indian meal apart is the number and variety of accompaniments to the main dishes. In fact, these accompaniments are as important as the main meal itself. They include dried fish or pappadams (lentil wafers), fresh chutneys made from herbs, coconut, acid fruits and other ingredients; and also bland cooling yoghurt raitas. These raitas are called pachchadis in South India, and incorporate more spicy seasoning.

An Indian salad presupposes hot chillies as an ingredient, or a sufficient sprinkling of chilli powder to give it a ‘kick’. If the raw vegetables are dressed with enough chilli, then the salad becomes a sambal. Use your imagination and create raitas, salads and chutneys from fruit and vegetables in season. For cooked chutneys; these chutneys, though popular with Westerners, are almost unknown in India.

Other popular accompaniments include Bombay duck (glossary), dried sprats, fried nuts, grated coconut or fresh fruits. Ripe bananas are served, sliced and sprinkled with lemon juice, as a foil to a very hot curry. They may be served raw or cut into chunks and fried, and take the place of a sweet chutney.

Unripe mangoes, stones removed, peeled and sliced, sprinkled with salt and chilli powder, are also served as an accompaniment, like a fresh chutney. Ripe mangoes are never served with a curry meal, but may follow as a dessert. Half-ripe pineapple is another favourite fruit accompaniment. The ‘eyes’ are removed, the flesh is diced and then sprinkled with salt and chilli powder.

What to drink with an Indian meal has always been the subject of much argument. Cold water is the most authentic, but many Indians prefer a sweet drink such as sharbat gulab or falooda. Even lassi, the cooling yoghurt drink, may be offered in sweet and salty versions. It can be simply sweetened, flavoured with mango or spiced with cardamom and rosewater or served salty using garam masala. These are certainly effective in quenching fiery spices. For those who want an alcoholic beverage, a chilled lager or shandy, or wine cup filled with a semi-sweet white wine or rosé is permissible, but fine dry wines and curries just do not go together. One warning: carbonated or ‘fizzy’ drinks, including lager beer, tend to exaggerate the burning sensation of a really hot curry; as does ice-cold water.

UTENSILS

The well-equipped modern kitchen with gas or electric stoves, blenders, coffee grinders, refrigerators and freezers makes cooking much easier than it is in a traditional Indian kitchen.

The brass degchi used throughout India is like a saucepan without handles. The sides are straight and have a horizontal rim. The flat lid fits over the rim of the pan, and is sometimes sealed with a flour and water paste, making a sort of oven or steam cooker out of the pan, for what is called dum cooking. Hot coals are put on the lid to provide cooking heat from above as well as below, for ovens are almost unknown in the average Indian household. Nowadays the degchi is also made from aluminium.

Saucepans with well-fitting lids are just as suitable as a degchi, and a casserole in the oven is the answer to dum cooking. Wooden spoons substitute for the coconut-shell spoons mostly used in India, and a deep frying pan takes the place of the karahi, a rounded pan used for frying. A griddle or heavy iron plate replaces the tawa on which chapati or paratha are cooked; even a heavy frying pan will do. The ever-present grinding stone for spices, and the coconut grater, are replaced by the versatile electric blender, a coffee mill used to grind spices only or failing that, a mortar and pestle.

COMMON INGREDIENTS

GARAM MASALA Meaning, literally, ‘hot spice’, this is a staple blend for your Indian spice shelf. There are many versions of garam masala, some using hot spices, such as pepper, and others only the fragrant spices. If stored in an airtight container away from heat and light, garam masala will stay flavoursome and fragrant for six months or longer and amply repay the effort of making it. Here again, if you find a good commercial garam masala, by all means use it — but if you are a real enthusiast about spice cookery, you owe it to yourself to try a homemade blend or two. They are so marvellously adaptable to your own taste.

GHEE Clarified butter or pure butterfat, ghee is what gives the rich, distinctive flavour to north Indian cooking. Having no milk solids it can be heated to much higher temperatures than butter without burning. It is sold in tins, packets or tubs. If you find it difficult to buy ghee, make your own by heating butter in a saucepan until it melts and froths. Spoon the foam off the top and pour the melted butter into a heatproof glass bowl, discarding the milk solids in the pan. Leave to cool to room temperature, then chill until set. Spoon off the fat from the top. Heat the fat again, then strain through fine muslin (cheesecloth) to remove any remaining solids. This ghee will keep for three to four months without refrigeration.

KHOA Used to make Indian sweetmeats, khoa is unsweetened condensed milk made by boiling milk quickly in a shallow pan (such as a large, heavy-based frying pan) to allow for as much surface evaporation as possible. It must be stirred constantly. When ready, khoa has the consistency of uncooked pastry. One litre (4 cups) milk yields about 90 g khoa.

MALAI Malai is thick cream. This is not the separated cream sold commercially, but it is collected from the top of the milk. The milk is kept boiling steadily in a wide pan, usually with a fan playing on the surface to cool the top of the milk and hasten formation of the skin. When cool, the skin is removed and the process repeated. It is possible to buy this type of cream from Middle Eastern grocery stores, where it is called ashtar.

COOKING OILS Different oils used in various parts of India give the cookery of each region a distinctive flavour. Til, or sesame oil, and coconut oil are much used in southern India, while in Bengal the favourite cooking medium is mustard oil. It is up to your personal taste what type of oil you use, but extra-virgin olive oil is not used in Indian cooking. Maize, sunflower or light olive oil are the best substitutes and may be flavoured with ghee.

PANCH PHORA ‘Panch’ means five in Hindi, and panch phora is a combination of five different aromatic seeds. These are used whole and, when added to the cooking oil, impart a flavour typical of certain Indian dishes. Combine 2 tablespoons each of black mustard seed, cumin seed and nigella seed and 1 tablespoon each of fenugreek seed and fennel seed. Store in an airtight jar and shake before using. There is no substitute.

PANIR Panir is homemade cream cheese. To make your own, bring milk to the boil, stirring occasionally to prevent a skin forming on top. As the milk starts to rise in the pan, stir in lemon juice in the proportion of 1 tablespoon to 625 ml (2 ½ cups) milk. Remove from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes, by which time firm curds will have formed. Strain through muslin (cheesecloth) and leave to hang for at least 30 minutes, then press to remove as much moisture as possible. If it has to be very firm, weight it down and leave for some hours in a cool place (this is necessary when it is to be cut into cubes and cooked with vegetable dishes, such as in mattar panir). It may be added to any of the vegetable preparations for extra nutrition.

RICE The preferred rice in Indian, especially Mogul, cooking is basmati rice. Its long, fragrant grains make perfectly fluffy pilau and biriani.

TAMARIND This sour fruit is available dried, pressed into blocks or sold as a purée in jars. The liquid version is generally less sour, so add up to twice what the recipe calls for but, as always, be guided by taste.

TANDOORI MIX A blend of hot and fragrant spices including cardamom, chilli, turmeric, saffron and garam masala. If commercial brands are not available, substitute the following: 2 teaspoons ground turmeric, 1 teaspoon paprika, ½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional), 1 teaspoon garam masala, ½ teaspoon ground cardamom, ⅛ teaspoon powdered saffron. You may also add ½ teaspoon of garlic powder, but this is not necessary if fresh garlic is used in the recipe.

YOGHURT In India this is called dahi, or curd, and is always unflavoured. Plain yoghurt should be used, and if possible choose one with a definite sour flavour. I have found that goat’s milk yoghurt or Greek-style yoghurt is most suitable.

CURRY POWDERS AND PASTES

Curry powder, as it is sold commercially, is almost never used in India or other countries where curry is made and eaten every day. Rather, the individual spices are freshly ground each day and added to the food in various combinations and proportions. Even when there is a grinding mill in the town and home cooks, yielding to the pressures of modern living, have a month’s supply ground at a time, the dry ground spices are kept separate.

There are many good curry mixtures sold commercially, but there are also many that lack good flavour because of a skimping on the more expensive spices and a reliance on ‘fillers’, such as rice flour, to make up the bulk. If using curry powder, make sure it is fresh by buying from a store that specialises in spices with a high turnover, buy in small quantities so it does not stay on your shelf for too long and look for a brand in a bottle or tin, because cardboard containers absorb a lot of the essential oils of the spices.

In most of the recipes in this book I have used the individual spices to allow for as much variation as possible. Spicing is an art you can learn, and eventually you can tailor your curries to your own taste and not rely on a ready-mixed formula. However, if you cannot obtain the spices mentioned or have a liking for a particular curry mixture, substitute a similar quantity of the blend for the combined amount of turmeric, coriander, cumin, chilli, fennel and fenugreek used in the recipe. Curry powder does not include the fragrant spices such as cardamom, clove and cinnamon, so these must be added separately. A curry paste I like to buy or make is green masala paste, based on fresh herbs. Because these are not always in season it is a good idea to make a batch when they are plentiful and preserve them in oil for later use (madrasi masala). It can take the place of fresh ginger and coriander leaves and even part of the garlic in a recipe, or it can be used as an extra flavour accent.

Another, important ingredient is garam masala, a mixture of ground spices, which is added to many types of Indian dishes. Sometimes it is added with other spices at the frying stage, but more often it is sprinkled on during the last few minutes of cooking.

YOUR INDIAN AND PAKISTANI SHELF

These ingredients will put an entire range of Indian spice dishes at your fingertips. Fresh ingredients are not included, only those that have a good shelf life. Buy in small quantities and store in airtight jars away from heat and direct sunlight.

amchur powder (glossary)

asafoetida (glossary)

black cumin seeds

black mustard seeds

black peppercorns, whole and ground

besan (chickpea flour)

cardamom, whole pods and ground

cinnamon sticks

chilli powder

cloves, whole and ground

coriander, seeds and ground

cumin, seeds and ground

curry leaves

coconut milk

curry pastes

desiccated coconut

fennel, seeds and ground

fenugreek, whole seeds and ground

garam masala

ghee

kencur (aromatic ginger) powder (glossary)

kewra essence (glossary)

mace, ground

nigella seeds

nutmeg, whole

panch phora

rosewater

saffron, strands or ground

tandoori mix

turmeric, ground

GARAM MASALA

Ground mixed spices

The recipes that follow will give you a good selection to choose from to suit your own personal taste. Roasting the spices brings out their flavour and also makes them easier to grind. If a blender is not available, use a spice grinder or mortar and pestle to pound the spices to a fine powder (when the spices are still warm and crisp after roasting this process is made much easier). Store garam masala in an airtight jar in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. Freezing may help preserve the essential oils.

No. 1 Garam masala

25 g coriander seeds

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

20 g cardamom pods

4 cinnamon sticks

1 teaspoon whole cloves

1 whole nutmeg, finely grated

Roast the coriander seeds in a small frying pan over low heat. As it starts to smell fragrant, remove to a plate. Repeat with the cumin seeds, peppercorns, cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks and cloves, cooking separately until all are fragrant.

After roasting, peel the cardamom pods, discarding the pods. Place the cardamom seeds in a spice grinder with the other roasted spices and blend to a fine powder. Stir in the nutmeg to combine. Store in an airtight jar.

No. 2 Fragrant spice garam masala

3 cinnamon sticks

20 g (¼ cup) cardamom pods

1 teaspoon whole cloves

1 teaspoon ground mace or ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Roast the cinnamon sticks in a small frying pan over low heat. As it starts to smell fragrant, remove to a plate. Repeat with the cardamom pods, cloves and mace, if using, cooking separately until all are fragrant.

After roasting, peel the cardamom pods, discarding the pods. Place the cardamom seeds in a spice grinder with the other roasted spices and blend to a fine powder. Stir in the nutmeg, if using. Store in an airtight jar.

No. 3 Kashmiri garam masala

2 cinnamon sticks

20 g (¼ cup) cardamom pods

½ teaspoon whole cloves

1 teaspoon black cumin seeds

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

¼ whole nutmeg, finely grated

Roast the cinnamon stick in a small frying pan over low heat. As it starts to smell fragrant, remove to a plate. Repeat with the cardamom pods, cloves, cumin seeds and peppercorns, cooking separately until all are fragrant.

After roasting, peel the cardamom pods, discarding the pods. Place the cardamom seeds in a spice grinder with the other roasted spices and blend to a fine powder. Stir in the nutmeg. Store in an airtight jar.

MADRASI MASALA

Madras-style curry paste

100 g (1 cup) ground coriander

50 g (½ cup) ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon black mustard seeds, ground

1 tablespoon chilli powder

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon salt

2 tablespoons crushed garlic

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

vinegar, for mixing

185 ml (¾ cup) oil

Combine the ground spices and salt in a bowl. Add the garlic and ginger and just enough vinegar to make a smooth, thick purée.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over high heat. When the oil is hot, add the spice mixture, then reduce the heat and stir constantly until the spices are cooked and the oil starts to separate. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Use about 1 tablespoon curry paste for each 500 g of meat, fish or poultry, substituting it for the garlic, ginger and spices in a recipe.

TAAZA MASALA

Green masala paste

A spice paste based on fresh coriander leaves, mint, garlic and ginger. Added to any curry or spiced preparation, it will give extra flavour.

1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

5 large garlic cloves

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

15 g (1 cup) firmly packed fresh mint leaves

15 g (1 cup) firmly packed fresh coriander leaves

125 ml (½ cup) vinegar

3 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

125 ml (½ cup) vegetable oil

60 ml (¼ cup) sesame oil

Put the fenugreek seeds in a bowl of water and leave to soak overnight — they will swell and develop a jelly-like coating.

Measure 1 teaspoon of the soaked seeds and place in a food processor or blender with the garlic, ginger, mint, coriander and vinegar. Process until well combined and very smooth. Add the salt, turmeric, cloves and cardamom and stir to combine.

Heat the vegetable and sesame oils in a saucepan over high heat. When the oil is hot, add the spice mixture and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Transfer to an airtight jar — the oil should cover the herbs; if it doesn’t, heat a little extra oil and add it to the jar. The curry paste can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

CHAPATIS

Wholemeal unleavened pan-fried bread

MAKES: 20–24

These flat discs of unleavened bread have a delightful flavour and chewy texture. They can be served simply with butter, alongside dry curries or vegetable dishes.

Chapati dough

375 g (2½ cups) wholemeal, atta or roti flour, plus extra for dusting

1–1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste

1 tablespoon ghee or oil (optional)

To make the chapati dough, put the flour and salt in a mixing bowl and rub in the ghee, if using. Add 250 ml (1 cup) water and mix to a firm but not stiff dough. Continue to knead for at least 10 minutes (the more it is kneaded, the lighter the bread will be). Form the dough into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and stand for at least 1 hour or longer. (If left overnight the chapatis will be very light and tender.)

Shape the dough into balls with a 5 cm diameter. Roll out each ball on a lightly floured work surface to make a thin circle — you should have about 20 rounds.

Heat a griddle plate or a large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Start cooking the chapatis with those that were rolled first (the resting between rolling and cooking also seems to make for lighter chapatis). Cook for about 1 minute, then turn and cook for a further 1 minute, pressing lightly around the edges of the chapati with a folded tea towel or an egg slice — this encourages bubbles to form and makes the chapatis light. As each one is cooked, wrap in a clean tea towel until all are cooked. Serve immediately.

Note: In India, chapatis are cooked on the tawa or griddle plate and are held for a moment or two right over the fire — this makes them puff up like balloons. You can do this over a gas flame, holding them with kitchen tongs.

DHAL CHAPATI

Chapatis with lentil and spinach filling

MAKES: 8

1 quantity chapati dough (opposite)

205 g (1 cup) red lentils

200 g (3 cups) finely chopped spinach

2 tablespoons oil or ghee, plus 1 tablespoon extra

1 onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

a squeeze of lemon juice

Make the chapati dough as directed opposite but add an extra generous measure of water to make a softer, more pliable dough. Knead well and set aside.

To make the filling, put the lentils into a saucepan and add enough water to cover by 1.5 cm. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes, then stir in the spinach and cook for a further 5 minutes, or until the lentils are tender — you may need to add more water.

Heat the ghee in a frying pan over medium heat. Cook the onion until soft and golden, then add the garlic and lentil and spinach mixture and stir to combine. Add the cumin, garam masala, salt and lemon juice and continue to cook, stirring regularly, until all of the liquid has been absorbed and the mixture is dry. Remove from the heat and allow to cool; taste and adjust the seasoning.

Divide the chapati dough into eight even-sized balls and press them to make circles with a 10 cm diameter. Put a spoonful of the lentil and spinach mixture into the centre of each, then bring the edges of the dough together and pinch well to seal. Roll each chapati out into circles with a 20 cm diameter on a lightly floured work surface — they should be thin, but not so thin that the dough breaks and lets the filling out.

Heat a little ghee on a griddle plate or in a large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Cook the chapatis, in batches, pressing gently until golden on the underside. Brush a little extra ghee over the top of each, then turn and cook until golden. Remove to a plate and cover with a clean tea towel while cooking the remainder. Serve hot.

PURI

Deep-fried wholemeal bread

MAKES: ABOUT 20

1 quantity chapati dough

oil, for deep-frying

Make the chapati dough as directed.

Shape the dough into balls with a 5 cm diameter. Roll out each ball on a lightly floured work surface to make a thin circle — you should have about 20 rounds.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the puris, one at a time, spooning the hot oil over the top continually until it puffs and swells. Turn over and cook the other side. When pale golden brown, drain on paper towel. Repeat until all are cooked. Serve warm with curries and bhajis.

KACHORI

Puris with filling

MAKES: ABOUT 20

1 quantity chapati dough

235 g (1 cup) potato and pea dry curry or lentil purée, mashed

oil, for deep-frying

Make the chapati dough as directed.

Shape the dough into balls with a 5 cm diameter. Roll out each ball on a lightly floured work surface to make a thin circle — you should have about 20 rounds.

Put a spoonful of the curry into the centre of each circle, then bring the edges of the dough together and pinch well to seal. Roll each puri out on a lightly floured work surface — they should be thin, but not so thin that the dough breaks and lets the filling out.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the puris, one at a time, spooning the hot oil over the top continually until it puffs and swells. Turn over and cook the other side. When pale golden brown, drain on paper towel. Repeat until all are cooked.

ALU PURI

Potato puris

MAKES: 20–24

250 g mashed potato, cooled

300 g (2 cups) plain flour

2 teaspoons salt oil, for deep-frying

1 tablespoon ghee (optional)

Mix together the mashed potato, flour and salt in a bowl. Knead well, adding about 60 ml (¼ cup) lukewarm water to make a firm but not dry dough. The more the dough is kneaded, the lighter the puris will be, so knead for at least 10 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and not sticky. Cover and rest for 30–60 minutes.

Divide the potato mixture into 20–24 even-sized balls, and roll each one out on a lightly floured work surface to make circles with a 10 cm diameter.

Heat the oil and ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the puris, one at a time, spooning the hot oil over the top continually until it puffs and swells. Turn over and cook the other side. When pale golden brown, drain on paper towel. Repeat until all are cooked. Serve warm with lentils, vegetables or meat curries that do not have a lot of thin gravy.

PARATHA

Flaky wholemeal bread

MAKES: 12–14

Probably the favourite variety of Indian bread, Parathas are rich, flaky and deliciously flavoured with ghee. Kebabs and parathas is a combination which is quite famous. A dear friend of my grandmother taught me her method of rolling and folding the parathas, which is the easiest and most successful I’ve tried.

225 g (1½ cups) wholemeal flour

225 g (1½ cups) plain flour or roti flour

1½ teaspoons salt

120–160 g ghee, melted, plus extra for cooking

Sift the wholemeal flour, plain flour and salt into a mixing bowl and rub in 1 tablespoon of the ghee. Add 250 ml (1 cup) water and mix to a firm but not stiff dough. Continue kneading for at least 10 minutes (the more it is kneaded, the lighter the bread will be). Form the dough into a ball, cover and rest for at least 1 hour.

Divide the dough into 12–14 equal portions and roll to make smooth balls. Roll out each ball on a lightly floured work surface to make a very thin circular shape. Pour 2 teaspoons of the melted ghee into the centre of each and spread lightly with your hand. With a knife, make a cut from the centre of each circle to the outer edge. Starting at the cut edge, roll the dough closely into a cone shape. Pick it up, press the apex of the cone and the base towards each other and flatten slightly. You will now have a small, roughly circular lump of dough again.

Roll out each portion again on a lightly floured surface, taking care not to press too hard and let the air out at the edges. The parathas should be as round as possible, but not too thin.

Heat a little extra ghee on a griddle plate or in a large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Cook the parathas, in batches, brushing over more ghee, until they are golden brown on both sides. Serve hot with grilled kebabs, sambals and podina chatni.

Note: The wholemeal and plain or roti flour can be replaced by 450 g (3 cups) plain flour if necessary.

GOBI PARATHA

Parathas with cauliflower filling

MAKES: 8

300 g (2 cups) roti flour or plain flour

½ teaspoon salt

2–3 tablespoons ghee, melted

Filling

125 g (1 cup) cauliflower florets, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

chilli powder, to taste (optional)

Mix the flour and salt together in a large bowl, then add 170 ml (⅔ cup) lukewarm water all at once and knead hard for 10 minutes to make a firm but pliable dough. Cover and rest for at least 30 minutes.

To make the filling, combine all the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Use only the tender flower heads of the cauliflower and make sure there are no large pieces, as these will make the parathas difficult to roll out.

Divide the dough into 8 even-sized portions and roll each into a ball. Press each out to make a circle with a 10 cm diameter. Put a spoonful of the filling into the centre of each, then bring the edges of the dough together and pinch well to seal. Press with your hands to flatten, then roll each paratha out on a lightly floured work surface — they should be thin, but not so thin that the dough breaks and lets the filling out. Do not press too hard on the rolling pin or the filling will break through the dough. If this does happen take a small piece of dough, press flat and place it over the break. Roll gently to join.

Heat a little of the ghee on a griddle plate or in a large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Cook the parathas, one at a time, spreading a little ghee over the top of each before turning and cooking to golden on both sides. Serve at once, accompanied by a raita.

NAAN

Punjabi leavened bread

MAKES: ABOUT 8 LOAVES

30 g fresh compressed yeast or 2 teaspoons dried yeast

3 teaspoons sugar

70 g (¼ cup) plain yoghurt

1 egg, beaten

60 ml (¼ cup) melted ghee or butter, plus extra for brushing

2 teaspoons salt

525 g (3½ cups) plain flour

2 tablespoons poppy seeds or nigella seeds

Put the yeast and 60 ml (¼ cup) lukewarm water in a small bowl and leave for a few minutes to soften, then stir to dissolve. Add 1 teaspoon of the sugar, stir, then leave in a warm place for 10 minutes, or until the mixture starts to froth. This is to test whether the yeast is live; if it does not froth start again with a fresh batch of yeast.

Stir the yoghurt in a bowl until smooth, then add the remaining sugar, 125 ml (½ cup) lukewarm water, the egg, ghee and salt. Stir in the yeast mixture.

Put 300 g (2 cups) of the flour into a mixing bowl and make a well in the centre. Pour in the yeast mixture, beating well with a wooden spoon to make a smooth batter. Add the remaining flour a little at a time and when it gets too stiff to use the spoon, knead with your hands until a firm dough forms. Continue kneading for 10–12 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elastic, using as little extra flour as possible.

Form the dough into a ball and set aside. Heat a bowl by running warm water into it and leaving for a few minutes. Dry the bowl well, grease it with the extra ghee, then place the dough in the bowl and turn to coat. Cover with a clean tea towel and leave in a warm place until doubled in size and a finger pushed into the dough leaves an impression.

Preheat the oven to 230°C (Gas 8). Put two ungreased baking trays into the oven to preheat.

Knock back the dough and divide it into 8 even-sized portions; leave to rest 10 minutes. Pat the dough into circles, keeping them thin in the centre and thicker around the rim, then pull one end outwards, making a teardrop shape. They should be a handspan long and little more than half that much wide at the base. Brush with the extra melted ghee and sprinkle over the poppy seeds. Bake on the preheated trays in the oven for 10 minutes, or until golden and puffed. If the naan are not brown enough, finish off under a preheated griller (broiler) for 1–2 minutes.

Serve warm or cool with tandoori chicken, lamb kebabs, korma or boti kebab, and with kachumbar as an accompaniment.

NAMKIN CHAWAL

Plain savoury rice

SERVES: 2–4

Rice is the staple food in southern, central and eastern parts of India and forms the major part of an Indian meal. Served Indian-style, this quantity will serve two.

50 g (¼ cup) long-grain rice

2 teaspoons ghee

1 teaspoon salt

Wash the rice well and drain in colander for 30 minutes.

Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the rice and stir for about 2 minutes, then add the salt and 625 ml (2½ cups) hot water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook without lifting the lid or stirring, for 20–25 minutes. Lift the lid to allow the steam to escape for a minute or two, then use a fork to lightly fluff up the rice, taking care not to mash the grains, which should be firm and separate and perfectly cooked.

Serve the rice using a slotted spoon rather than a wooden spoon, which will crush the grains. Serve with curries or other spiced dishes.

KITCHRI

Savoury rice and lentils

SERVES: 4–6

200 g (1 cup) long-grain rice

205 g (1 cup) red lentils

2½ tablespoons ghee

2 onions, thinly sliced

2½ teaspoons salt

1½ teaspoons garam masala

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Wash the lentils well, removing any that float to the surface, then drain.

Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the onion and cook over medium heat until golden brown. Remove half the onion to a plate. Add the rice and lentils to the pan and cook for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add 1.25 litres (5 cups) hot water, the salt and garam masala and stir to combine. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer over low heat for 20–25 minutes, or until the rice and lentils are tender. Do not lift the lid or stir during cooking. Serve hot, garnished with the reserved fried onion.

Note: This is a soft kitchri with the consistency of porridge. If a drier, fluffier result is desired, reduce the water to 875 ml (3½ cups). Also, whole spices, such as a cinnamon stick and a few whole cloves, bruised cardamom pods and peppercorns may be used instead of garam masala.

PARSI PILAU

Spiced rice, Parsi-style

SERVES: 5–6

500 g (2½ cups) long-grain rice

½ teaspoon saffron strands

1 tablespoon boiling water

2 tablespoons ghee

4 cardamom pods, bruised

1 small cinnamon stick

4 whole cloves

10 whole black peppercorns

2½ teaspoons salt

finely grated zest of 1 orange

2 tablespoons sultanas

2 tablespoons sliced almonds

2 tablespoons pistachios

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Gently heat the saffron strands in a small frying pan over low heat for 1–2 minutes, shaking the pan frequently and making sure they don’t burn. Remove to a plate to cool and crisp, then crush to a powder in a cup, adding the boiling water and stirring to dissolve. Set aside.

Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the cardamom pods, cinnamon stick, cloves and peppercorns and cook for 2 minutes, or until aromatic. Add the rice and continue stirring for 2–3 minutes, then add 1 litre (4 cups) hot water, the salt, orange zest and saffron water, stirring well to combine. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until all the liquid has been absorbed. Scatter the sultanas over the rice, replace the lid and continue cooking for a further 5 minutes.

Serve the rice garnished with almonds and pistachios. This is very good served with dhansak, a famous Parsi dish of meat or chicken cooked with lentils and vegetables.

KESAR PILAU

Saffron and lemon sweet pilau

SERVES: 4–6

The very best way to get a uniform colour and maximum flavour from saffron is to toast the strands in a dry frying pan over low heat for 1–2 minutes, shaking the pan frequently so it doesn’t burn. Remove to a plate to cool and crisp, then they are easy to crush to a powder in a cup with the back of a spoon. Add a tablespoon of hot water to dissolve the powder. If you want the rice evenly coloured, use this method. For a more speckled effect, use the soaking method described in this recipe.

1 tablespoon ghee

6 cardamom pods, bruised

4 whole cloves

1 small cinnamon stick

250 g (1¼ cups) long-grain rice

60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon saffron strands

2 tablespoons boiling water

Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the cardamom pods, cloves and cinnamon stick and cook for 3 minutes. Add the rice and cook for about 4–5 minutes, then add 500 ml (2 cups) hot water, the lemon juice, sugar and salt, stirring well. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the saffron strands in a small bowl and pour over the boiling water; leave to soak for 5 minutes. Press the strands between your fingers to extract as much colour as possible. After 10 minutes, sprinkle the saffron water into the pan over the rice. Do not stir. Replace the lid and cook for a further 10 minutes. Uncover, to allow the steam to escape for a few minutes, then remove the whole spices. Use a fork to gently fluff the rice grains before serving.

SABZI PILAU

Rice with vegetables

SERVES: 5–6

2 tablespoons ghee

2 tablespoons oil

2 onions, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

400 g (2 cups) long-grain rice

2 teaspoons salt, plus extra to taste

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 carrots, cut into thin matchsticks

12 green beans, thinly sliced

80 g (½ cup) diced red or green capsicum (pepper)

1 small potato, peeled and cubed

80 g (½ cup) fresh or frozen peas

Heat the ghee and oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and cook for 10 minutes, or until soft and pale golden. Add the garlic and continue cooking for 2 minutes, then add the rice. Increase the heat to medium and cook for 2 minutes, then add 1 litre (4 cups) hot water, the salt and garam masala. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes, or until all of the liquid has been absorbed.

Add the carrot, beans, capsicum, potato and peas to the pan — do not stir. Sprinkle with a little extra salt, to taste. Replace the lid and cook for a further 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender but not overcooked. Uncover the pan and leave for a few minutes, then use a fork to fluff up the grains and combine the vegetables. Use a slotted metal spoon to serve with curries.

Note: You can garnish this dish with fried almonds and sultanas if you like.

MATTAR PILAU

Rice with fresh green peas

SERVES: 2–3

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

4 whole cloves

1 small cinnamon stick

2 cardamom pods

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon ground turmeric (optional)

250 g (1¼ cups) long-grain rice

200 g (1¼ cups) fresh or frozen peas

2 teaspoons salt

Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the cloves, cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and cumin seeds and cook for 1 minute. Add the turmeric and rice and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the fresh peas, if using, the salt and 625 ml (2½ cups) hot water and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 25 minutes without lifting the lid or stirring. Remove the whole spices and use a fork to fluff up the grains before serving. Serve hot with vegetable or meat dishes.

Note: If using frozen peas, quickly lift the lid and scatter over the rice 10 minutes before the end of cooking time.

JHINGA PILAU

Spiced prawns and rice

SERVES: 4

300 g (1½ cups) long-grain rice

2 tablespoons ghee

2 tablespoons oil

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

1 onion, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

4 cardamom pods, bruised

4 whole cloves

1 small cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 fresh red chillies, sliced

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

1½ teaspoons salt

thinly sliced cucumber, to garnish

fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

Wash the rice well and drain in colander for 30 minutes.

Heat the ghee and oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium–high heat. Add the prawns and cook until they change colour, then remove to a plate.

Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook for a few minutes, stirring frequently. Add the whole spices and cook for about 1–2 minutes further, then add the rice and stir to coat.

Return the prawns to the pan and add the garam masala, chilli, chilli powder, salt and 750 ml (3 cups) hot water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 20 minutes without lifting the lid. Serve hot, garnished with cucumber and fresh coriander.

YAKHNI PILAU

Rice cooked in stock with spices

SERVES: 4–6

1 kg whole chicken or use 3 lamb shanks

4 cardamom pods

10 whole black peppercorns

4½ teaspoons salt

1 onion

3 whole cloves

500 g (2½ cups) long-grain or basmati rice

120 g ghee

1 large onion, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon saffron strands or ⅛ teaspoon ground saffron

2 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon garam masala

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

60 ml (¼ cup) rosewater

40 g (¼ cup) sultanas

40 g (¼ cup) almonds, toasted

150 g (1 cup) cooked green peas

3 hard-boiled eggs, halved

Make a stock by putting the chicken or lamb shanks in a large saucepan and enough water to cover, with the cardamom pods, peppercorns, 2 teaspoons of the salt and the onion stuck with the cloves. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 hours. Strain the stock, reserving 1 litre (4 cups) for the rice, and cool. Remove the meat from the bones, cut into bite-sized pieces and set aside.

Wash the rice well and drain in colander for 30 minutes. Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan and cook the onion until golden. Add the saffron, garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the rice and stir with a slotted spoon for 5 minutes over medium heat — this prevents the delicate rice grains breaking. Add the reserved hot stock, garam masala, cardamom, remaining salt, rosewater, sultanas and reserved meat and stir well, then cover and cook over low heat for 20 minutes, or until tender — do not uncover the pan or stir the rice. Remove from the heat and use a fork to fluff up the rice. Garnish with the almonds, peas and eggs. This dish can be served with pickles, cucumbers in sour cream or yoghurt, and crisp fried pappadams. A curry dish can also be served.

MOGLAI BIRIANI

Moghul biriani

SERVES: 12–14

Biriani is a very rich pilau, usually layered with a spicy mutton or chicken savoury mixture and steamed very gently so that the flavours blend. It is the masterpiece of many Eastern cooks and the central dish at festive dinners. Here is a recipe for a lamb biriani, suitable for serving at a party. Halve all quantities for a smaller number of people; cooking times stay the same.

Lamb savoury

2 kg boned leg of lamb, trimmed of fat

100 g ghee

3 large onions, sliced

6 garlic cloves, chopped

1½ tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger

120 g Indian curry powder

1 tablespoon salt

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

2 fresh red chillies, left whole

10 g (½ cup) chopped fresh mint

4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

2 quantities yakhni pilau (opposite), using lamb shanks

1 tablespoon ghee

To make the lamb savoury, cut the lamb into large cubes. Heat the ghee in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until soft and golden. Add the curry powder and cook for 1 minute further, then add the salt, lemon juice and lamb and cook, stirring constantly, until it is well coated in the spice mixture. Add the garam masala, cardamom, whole chillies, mint and tomato. Cover and cook over low heat for approximately 1 hour, stirring occasionally, until the lamb is tender and the gravy is very thick and almost dry. Remove from the heat remove and discard the chillies. Sprinkle with the chopped coriander leaves.

To make the yakhni pilau follow the directions opposite using lamb shanks to make the stock — although you are doubling the ingredients the cooking times are the same. When the pilau is cooked, allow to cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 160°C (Gas 2–3). To assemble the biriani, heat the ghee in a large ovenproof casserole and spoon in one-third of the pilau, packing it lightly. Spread half of the lamb savoury over the top, making sure it goes right to the edges of the casserole. Cover with half of the remaining pilau. Repeat this layering to finish with a layer of pilau. Cover the casserole and cook in the oven for 20–30 minutes. Leave the biriani in the dish or turn out onto a large serving tray. Garnish as for the yakhni pilau.

Note: For special occasions, add blanched pistachios and edible silver leaf to the garnish in traditional Indian style.

CHANNA KI DHAL

Savoury split peas

SERVES: 10

Serve these as a tasty nibble with drinks, or store them in an airtight container for a snack any time.

500 g (2¼ cups) yellow split peas

1 tablespoon bicarbonate of soda

oil, for deep-frying

1 teaspoon garam masala

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon amchur powder (optional)

Wash the split peas well two or three times. Dissolve the bicarbonate of soda in a bowl of fresh cold water, add the split peas and leave to soak for at least 12 hours or overnight. Rinse in fresh water and drain again, first in a colander and then on paper towel, until the split peas are dry.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the split peas, in batches, until golden. (Make sure the oil is not so hot that it burns the peas; if it is not hot enough they will be very oily.)

Remove the peas from the pan with a mesh skimmer and drain on paper towel. When all the peas are cooked and drained, make a mixture of the spices and salt and toss the peas in it. Allow to cool before serving. The savoury split peas can be stored in an airtight container for up to 10 days.

CHANNA

Savoury chickpeas

SERVES: 4–6

250 g (1¼ cups) dried chickpeas

2 teaspoons salt, plus extra to taste

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon chilli powder

lemon juice, to taste

Soak the chickpeas overnight in a bowl with plenty of water. Next day, transfer to a saucepan, pour in enough fresh water to cover, add the salt and turmeric. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 35–45 minutes, or until the chickpeas are tender. Drain and transfer to a bowl.

Sprinkle the cumin and chilli powder over the chickpeas and add lemon juice and salt, to taste. Toss well to coat and serve the chickpeas as a snack by themselves, or as part of the pani puri accompaniments.

MASALA KAJU BADAM

Spicy fried nuts

SERVES: 20

260 g (1⅔ cups) raw cashews

270 g (1⅔ cups) blanched almonds

500 g (3½ cups) raw peanuts

oil, for frying

1 tablespoon salt

2 teaspoons garam masala

2 teaspoons chilli powder, or to taste

1 teaspoon amchur powder (optional)

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat and cook all the nuts until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. (Do not leave them in the oil until they darken because they go on cooking in their own heat.) Combine the salt and spices and sprinkle over the nuts. If an acid flavour is liked, add amchur powder to the mix. Cool, then store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

SEV or MURUKKU

Deep-fried lentil savoury

SERVES: 12

180 g (1½ cups) besan (chickpea flour)

125 g (¾ cup) ground rice

1½ teaspoons garam masala

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

½ teaspoon ajowan seeds (optional)

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste

60 g ghee, melted

oil, for deep-frying

Sift the besan into a large bowl and stir through the ground rice, spices, aromatic seeds and salt. Rub in the ghee until evenly distributed. Add 170 ml (⅔ cup) water and knead to a stiff dough — it should resemble the consistency of a piped biscuit dough.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Put some of the dough into a potato ricer or mouli shredder and push through into the hot oil, and deep-fry until golden brown. Lift out with a mesh skimmer and drain on paper towel. Repeat until all the dough has been used. Cool, then store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. You can sprinkle over a little extra spice and salt after cooking if you prefer.

ALU LACHCHE

Potato straws

SERVES: 8

4 large potatoes

ice-cold water, for soaking

oil, for deep-frying

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon garam masala

Peel the potatoes and cut into thin matchsticks. Soak in ice-cold water, then drain and dry well on paper towel.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the potato straws, one handful at a time, until they are crisp and golden. Lift out of the oil with a slotted spoon and drain well on paper towel.

When all of the potato is cooked, sprinkle over the combined salt and spices and toss to coat before serving.

ALU CHAT

Potato slices

SERVES: 8

6–8 small potatoes

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon garam masala

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Wash the potatoes and cook them in their skins in a saucepan of boiling water — do not overcook. Drain, then allow to cool a little before peeling and cutting into slices.

Combine the salt and ground spices and sprinkle over the top. Add the lemon juice and toss lightly to combine. Serve hot, as a snack.

SAMOOSA

Small savoury pastries

MAKES: 32–36

These popular savouries are served for afternoon tea in India, but they are equally suitable served with pre-dinner drinks.

Samoosa pastry

225 g (1½ cups) plain flour

¾ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon oil or ghee

Savoury mince filling

1 tablespoon oil or ghee, plus extra for deep-frying

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 onions, finely chopped

2 teaspoons curry powder

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice

250 g minced (ground) beef or lamb

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or coriander leaves

oil, for deep-frying

To make the pastry, sift the flour and salt into a bowl, then add the oil and 125 ml (½ cup) lukewarm water and mix until well combined — you may need to add a little more water if the mixture is too dry. Knead for about 10 minutes, or until the pastry is elastic. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside while preparing the filling.

To make the filling, heat the oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic, ginger and half the onion and cook until the onion has softened. Add the curry powder, salt and vinegar and mix well. Increase the heat to high, add the beef and cook, stirring constantly, until the meat changes colour. Reduce the heat to low, add 125 ml (½ cup) hot water, cover, and cook until the meat is tender and all the liquid has been absorbed. Towards the end of cooking, stir frequently to prevent the meat from sticking to the base of the pan. Sprinkle with the garam masala and mint, then remove from the heat and allow to cool. Mix in the remaining chopped onion.

Take a small piece of pastry at a time, shape into a ball and roll out on a lightly floured work surface to make a circle with a 10 cm diameter. Cut each circle in half. Put a teaspoon of filling in the centre of each half circle and brush the edges with a little water. Fold the pastry over and press the edges together firmly. You will now have a triangular-shaped samoosa. Repeat until all the pastry and filling is used.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the samoosa, a few at a time, until golden brown. Drain on paper towel and serve hot with fresh coriander chutney.

SINGARA

Savoury pastries

MAKES: 32–36

2 large boiled potatoes, peeled and diced

½ teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon panch phora

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 quantity samoosa pastry (opposite)

oil or ghee, for deep-frying

To make the filling, put the potato in a bowl with the chilli powder, panch phora, cumin, salt and lemon juice and mix well to combine, being careful not to break up the potato.

Take a small piece of pastry at a time, shape into a ball and roll out on a lightly floured work surface to make a circle with a 10 cm diameter. Cut each circle in half. Put a teaspoon of filling in the centre of each half circle and brush the edges with a little water. Fold the pastry over and press the edges together firmly. You will now have a triangular-shaped pastry. Repeat until all the pastry and filling is used.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the singara, a few at a time, until golden brown. Drain on paper towel and serve hot.

Note: Both samoosa and singara can be made using spring roll wrappers. Cut into 6 cm strips the length of the pastry. Put a teaspoon of filling at one end and fold the pastry to enclose in a triangular shape. Moisten the end with a little water and press lightly to seal and enclose the filling.

PAKORHAS

Savoury vegetable fritters

MAKES: 24–36

Traditionally served in India at tea time you can also serve these as an accompaniment to a meal or as a party snack. Use small pieces of raw potato, onion, cauliflower, eggplant, zucchini and green capsicum, or use a combination of your own favourites.

180 g (1½ cups) besan (chickpea flour)

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

1 garlic clove, crushed

400 g (4 cups) mixed chopped vegetables

oil, for deep-frying

Sift the besan, garam masala, salt, turmeric and chilli powder, if using, into a bowl. Add just enough water to make a thick batter, about 250 ml (1 cup). Stir in the garlic and beat well. Set aside for 30 minutes, then beat again.

Add the vegetables to the batter and mix well.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Take one teaspoonful of the mixture at a time and gently drop into the hot oil. Cook the pakorhas in batches, turning as needed, until pale golden on both sides. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Just before serving, heat the oil again. When the oil is hot, return the pakorhas to the pan, a few at a time, for about 30 seconds, or until golden brown on both sides — the second frying makes them very crisp. Drain on paper towel and serve immediately.

Note: If you prefer to lighten the batter and lessen the strong chickpea flavour, use half besan and half self-raising flour — a little liberty that results in puffier pakorhas, and won’t topple the Taj Mahal.

SOOJEE VADAI

Deep-fried semolina savouries

MAKES: ABOUT 10

180 g (1 cup) semolina

250 ml (1 cup) boiling water

1 small red onion, finely chopped

1 fresh green chilli, seeded and finely chopped

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

oil, for deep-frying

Put the semolina in a bowl and pour over the boiling water, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the onion, chilli, ginger, salt, cumin and coriander and mix well to make a stiff, but not dry, dough.

Take one tablespoonful of the dough at a time and press to make a flat circle with a 7.5 cm diameter. Push a finger through the centre of the circle to make a hole in it like a doughnut.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the savouries, in batches, turning as needed until golden all over. Drain on paper towel. Serve warm with a fresh chutney.

THOSAI

South Indian pancakes

MAKES:10–12

200 g (1 cup) long-grain rice

110 g (½ cup) urad dhal (black gram dhal)

1½ teaspoons dried yeast

1 teaspoon sugar

1½ teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons ghee or oil, plus extra for cooking

¼ teaspoon mustard seeds

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 fresh green chilli, seeded and finely chopped

Wash the rice and dhal well, then soak each separately in a bowl of cold water for at least 8 hours or overnight. Drain well. Put the rice in a food processor with just enough water to facilitate blending. Strain through a fine sieve and set aside. Remove the skins if you are using unhusked dhal, then place in a food processor or blender, adding just enough water to make a very smooth batter. Combine the ground rice and dhal and mix well.

Sprinkle the yeast into a bowl with 125 ml (½ cup) warm water and leave for 5 minutes to soften. Stir to dissolve, then add the sugar and salt, mixing well. Add this to the ground rice and dhal, mix well and set aside in a warm place until the mixture doubles in size.

Heat the ghee in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook them until they start to pop. Add the onion and chilli and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden brown. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, then stir into the rice mixture — it should now be of a thick pouring consistency; add a little water or coconut milk if you need to thin it out a little.

Heat a little extra ghee in a pancake pan or heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Pour in just enough batter to cover the base of the pan and cook each pancake until golden brown on the bottom, then turn and cook the other side until golden. Remove to a plate and keep warm while cooking the remainder. Serve the pancakes with fresh chutneys and potato bhaji.

THOSAI

Rice pancakes

MAKES:ABOUT 10

240 g (1½ cups) rice flour

225 g (1½ cups) plain flour

2 tablespoons plain yoghurt

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

ghee or oil, for cooking

Sift the rice and plain flours into a bowl. Combine the yoghurt, salt and 625 ml (2½ cups) water in a separate bowl, then add to the flour and beat with a wooden spoon to make a thick, smooth batter. Set aside in a warm place overnight, or until mixture ferments.

Heat a little ghee in a heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Pour in just enough batter to cover the base of the pan and cook each thosai until golden brown on the bottom, then turn and cook the other side until golden. Remove to a plate and keep warm while cooking the remainder. Serve hot with dry vegetable dishes, fresh chutneys and sambals.

PANI PURI

Semolina wafers

MAKES:ABOUT 80

If you met these delicious little savouries in Maharashtra State, you probably know them as pani puri; in the Punjab they are called gol gappa; and if you spent time in Calcutta you may recognise them under the name of pushka. They are typical of Indian savoury snacks for between-meal nibbling. The crisp wafers, puffed up like Lilliputian balloons, are filled to individual taste.

The snack consists of fried wafers so thin and crisp that a finger pushed through one side makes a neat little hole into which you drop 2 or 3 cooked and spiced chickpeas, a couple of cubes of potato and a teaspoonful of piquant tamarind juice. There are variations on the theme, with some versions favouring crisp fried lentils, chips of fresh coconut and fresh chutneys.

95 g (¼ cup) fine semolina

75 g (½ cup) roti flour or plain flour

2 teaspoons besan (chickpea flour) (optional)

½ teaspoon salt

oil, for deep-frying

ghee, for deep-frying

Accompaniments

Channa (savoury chickpeas)

Channa ki dhal (savoury split peas)

Alu bhaji (savoury fried potatoes)

Imli chatni (tamarind chutney)

Podina chatni (mint chutney)

Zeera pani (cumin and tamarind water)

Put the semolina, flour, besan, if using, and salt into a bowl. Add 125 ml (½ cup) lukewarm water all at once and mix to make a dough. Knead the dough for 10 minutes, adding a little more flour if the mixture is too soft, or a few drops of water if it is too stiff. (Flours vary in absorbency and it is difficult to give an exact measure of water, but the dough should be the consistency of bread dough.) Cover the dough with a small bowl or with plastic wrap and let it rest for at least 30 minutes.

Pinch off small pieces of the dough and roll each into a ball the size of a hazelnut without its shell. Roll out each ball on a lightly floured work surface to make a thin circle, with a 5 cm diameter. Place on a tray and cover with a damp tea towel to prevent drying out. Allow the pastry to rest for 10–15 minutes before cooking.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the semolina wafers, two or three at a time, spooning the hot oil over the tops of each to make them puff up. Do not add too many at a time, for this brings down the temperature of the oil and results in greasy wafers. When they are golden on both sides, remove them from the pan using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel over a wire rack (this helps to keep them crisp when they cool). Repeat with the remaining wafers until all are cooked. If you are not serving at once, cool completely and store in an airtight container — they will keep for up to 3 days. Serve with the assorted accompaniments once cool.

RASAM

Pepper water

SERVES: 6

These thin soups are served as an aid to digestion and are part of every meal in South India. They may be used to moisten rice, or sipped with the meal. Less frequently, they may be served as a course on their own.

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

2 garlic cloves, sliced

¼ teaspoon asafoetida (glossary)

¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 teaspoons oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

8 curry leaves

Soak the tamarind pulp in 250 ml (1 cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibres.

Put the tamarind liquid, garlic, asafoetida, pepper, cumin, salt, coriander and 1 litre (4 cups) water into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes.

Heat the oil in a separate frying pan and cook the mustard seeds and curry leaves until the leaves are brown. Add to the simmering liquid, divide among bowls and serve immediately.

DHAL RASAM

Pepper water with lentils

SERVES: 6

100 g (½ cup) red lentils

1 small cinnamon stick

3 whole cloves

10 whole black peppercorns

2 small onions

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons ghee or oil

lemon juice, to taste

250 ml (1 cup) coconut milk (optional)

Rinse the lentils, drain well then place in a saucepan with the cinnamon stick, cloves, peppercorns, 1 of the onions, the salt and 1 litre (4 cups) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the lentils are very soft. Push the lentils and onion through a sieve, discarding the whole spices. Set aside.

Thinly slice the remaining onion. Heat the ghee in a frying pan over low heat and cook the onion until quite brown. Add the lentil liquid and lemon juice and season with extra salt, to taste. If a richer rasam is preferred, add the coconut milk at the end of cooking and adjust the seasoning, to taste. Divide among serving bowls and serve hot.

YAKHNI

Basic stock

SERVES: 6

Many recipes require a rich, spicy stock for cooking rice for pilaus and birianis. This versatile stock recipe can be made using lamb, chicken or beef. For economy, the lamb stock is made with bones taken from the leg or loin, plus two or three lamb shanks. Chicken frames, backs and necks are often sold separately, are much cheaper than other joints, and are ideal for stock, as bones add the most flavour.

500 g chicken, lamb or beef

6 whole cardamom pods, bruised

1 large onion

6 whole cloves

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

Put all the ingredients into a stockpot or large saucepan with 2–2.5 litres (8–10 cups) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, skimming the surface during the first few minutes to remove any impurities. Cover and simmer for 1½–2 hours.

Remove from the heat and cool, then refrigerate for about 3 hours to chill. Remove any fat from the surface before using. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months.

SAMBAR

Lentil and vegetable soup

SERVES: 6

220 g (1 cup) yellow split peas or red lentils

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon asafoetida (glossary)

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

2½ teaspoons salt

500 g (5 cups) mixed chopped vegetables, such as eggplant (aubergine), carrot, marrow and beans

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds or panch phora

1 small onion, thinly sliced

Rinse the split peas, drain well then leave to soak in a bowl of fresh water for at least 2 hours, or overnight. Drain well.

Put the split peas in a large saucepan with 1.5 litres (6 cups) water and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until softened.

Meanwhile, soak the tamarind pulp in 250 ml (1 cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibres. Add the tamarind liquid to the lentils.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the coriander, cumin, pepper, turmeric and asafoetida and stir for 1–2 minutes, then add to the lentils along with the chilli, salt and vegetables. Cook for about 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft.

Heat the remaining oil in a separate pan and fry the mustard seeds and onion until the onion has browned. Add to the lentil mixture and continue simmering for a further 1–2 minutes, stirring well to combine. Remove from the heat, divide among serving bowls and serve immediately.

Note: If tamarind pulp is unavailable, use lemon juice to taste, adding at the end of cooking.

MULLIGATAWNY

SERVES: 8–10

This curry-flavoured soup derives its name from the Indian ‘mulegoothani’ or pepper water. Mulligatawny as we know it is the Anglo-Indian version, made with beef, chicken or fish stock. This recipe includes coconut milk, which gives it a wonderful richness and delicious flavour.

Beef Stock

1 kg beef shin

1 kg soup (beef) bones

6 cardamom pods

1 tablespoon curry leaves

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1 garlic clove

12 whole black peppercorns

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp or 2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 onion

3 whole cloves

1 tablespoon ghee

2 onions, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

8 curry leaves

750 ml (3 cups) coconut milk

salt, to taste

To make the stock, put the beef and bones in a stockpot or large saucepan with enough water to cover. Add the cardamom pods, curry leaves, coriander and cumin seeds, garlic, peppercorns, salt, tamarind pulp and whole onion studded with the cloves. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1½–2 hours, or until the beef is tender and the stock is reduced by half. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Remove the beef and bones, discarding the bones. Strain the stock — you should have about 1.5 litres (6 cups) of stock. Cut the beef into small cubes and reserve.

Heat the ghee in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until dark brown. Add the mustard seeds and curry leaves and stir for 1–2 minutes, then add the warm stock — it will hiss and spit, so be careful. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the coconut milk, stir to combine and remove from the heat. Season with salt, to taste. Add the lemon juice now if you are not using the tamarind pulp. Return the diced beef to the soup, stir to combine, and serve hot.

MACHCHI MOLEE

Fish cooked in coconut milk

SERVES: 4

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets or steaks

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

8 curry leaves

2–3 fresh red or green chillies, halved lengthways and seeded

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

lime or lemon juice, to taste

Wash the fish and pat dry with paper towel. Rub over the combined turmeric and salt and set aside.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, curry leaves and chilli and cook, stirring constantly, until the onion has softened, being careful that it doesn’t brown. Add the thin coconut milk and stir while it comes to simmering point. Add the fish and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add the thick coconut milk and stir to heat through. Remove the pan from the heat before adding the lime juice and salt, to taste. Serve with rice.

MACHCHI TAMATAR KI KARI

Fish curry with tomato

SERVES: 4

500 g fish fillets or steaks

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves or mint leaves

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½–1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

1 large ripe tomato, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1½ teaspoons garam masala

lemon juice, to taste

Wash the fish and pat dry with paper towel, then cut each fillet into serving pieces (see preparing whole fish).

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic and coriander, and cook, stirring regularly, until the onion has softened. Add the cumin, turmeric and chilli powder and stir until the spices are cooked and aromatic

Add the tomato, salt and garam masala to the pan and continue cooking until the tomato is cooked to a pulp. Add the lemon juice, to taste, and check if more salt is needed. Put the pieces of fish into the tomato, spooning it over the fish, then cover the pan and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through. Serve immediately with rice.

MACHCHI KARI

Fish curry

SERVES: 4

Strong curries are particularly suited to strong flavoured fish with dark flesh, such as kingfish, tuna, trevally or small fish, such as sardines or anchovies. Fenugreek is almost always used in these types of curries.

500 g skinless, boneless fish fillets, such as kingfish, tuna or trevally, or small whole fish, such as sardines or anchovies

2 tablespoons oil

6–8 curry leaves

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½–1 teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon ground fenugreek

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste

lemon juice, to taste

Wash the fish and pat dry with paper towel. Cut the large fish fillets into serving pieces (see preparing whole fish). If small fish are used, clean and scale them.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over low heat. Add the curry leaves and cook until slightly brown, then add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook, stirring constantly, until the onion has softened. Add all the ground spices and cook, stirring regularly, until they become aromatic. Add the coconut milk and salt and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes.

Add the fish to the pan, spooning the liquid over the fish, and continue simmering until the fish is cooked through. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice, to taste. Serve immediately with rice.

KHATTAI WALI MACHCHI KARI

Sour fish curry

SERVES: 4

500 g skinless, boneless fish fillets, such as kingfish, tuna or trevally, or small whole fish, such as sardines or anchovies

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

1 onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon ground fenugreek

60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil

1 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice

1½ teaspoons salt

Wash the fish and pat dry with paper towel. Cut the large fish fillets into serving pieces (see preparing whole fish). If small fish are used, clean and scale them.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 125 ml (½ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibres.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger and 1 tablespoon of the tamarind liquid in a food processor and process to make a smooth purée. Mix in the ground spices.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion mixture and stir until it thickens and darkens. Add the remaining tamarind liquid, vinegar and salt, then pour in just enough hot water to cover the fish. Bring to the boil, then add the fish and simmer until cooked through.

Note: If you cannot obtain tamarind pulp, use tamarind purée that comes in jars, but add 1½ tablespoons, as it is not generally as

TALI MACHCHI (1)

Fried fish (1)

SERVES: 4

Use tuna, jewfish, Spanish mackerel, kingfish or any firm fish.

750 g fish fillets or steaks

2 garlic cloves

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

lemon juice

oil, for frying

fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

lemon wedges, to garnish

Wash the fish and pat dry with paper towel.

Pound the garlic and salt using a mortar and pestle. Then mix in a bowl with the ginger, turmeric, pepper, chilli powder, if using, and enough lemon juice to make a paste. Rub the paste over the fish on both sides, cover, and leave to marinate for 20 minutes.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat and cook the fish on both sides.

Remove from the heat and serve the fish on a serving platter garnished with the coriander leaves and lemon wedges.

TALI MACHCHI (2)

Fried fish (2)

SERVES: 4

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

3 tablespoons besan (chickpea flour)

3 tablespoons plain flour

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

oil, for deep-frying

1 egg, well beaten

Wash the fish and pat dry with paper towel.

Mix together the besan, plain flour, salt, garam masala and turmeric in a bowl.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Gently lower the fish fillets first into the egg, then turn to coat with the flour mixture, shaking off any excess. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the fish until golden brown. Drain on paper towel and serve immediately with rice, pickles and eggplant purée.

MASALA DUM MACHCHI

Spiced baked fish

SERVES: 4

1 kg whole fish, cleaned, scaled, head removed

salt

lemon juice

oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and chopped, plus extra to garnish

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon garam masala

250 g (1 cup) plain yoghurt

fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

Wipe out the cavity of the fish with paper towel dipped in coarse salt, then wash well. Rub the cavity with a little salt and lemon juice. Pat the outside dry with paper towel. Make diagonal slits in the flesh on each side of the fish and place in a large baking tray.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the ginger, garlic and chilli and cook until softened. Add the cumin and garam masala and cook for 2–3 minutes, then remove from the heat and stir into the yoghurt until well combined. Season with salt, to taste.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (Gas 4). Spread the marinade on both sides of the fish, making sure it goes into the cuts and inside the cavity. Leave to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes, then bake in the oven for 35 minutes, or until the flesh is white and opaque. Garnish with the coriander leaves and chilli, and serve hot.

MACHCHI KEBAB

Grilled fish on skewers

SERVES: 6

Use fish of a good thickness, such as snapper, hake or jewfish, for it is difficult to thread very thin slices of fish onto skewers.

1 kg skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon garam masala

½ teaspoon chilli powder

1 teaspoon amchur powder or 3 tablespoons lemon juice

250 g (1 cup) plain yoghurt

2 tablespoons plain flour

Wash the fish and pat dry with paper towel. Cut the fish into 4 cm pieces. Soak 12 bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Mix together the remaining ingredients in a bowl to make a marinade. Pour over the fish pieces and gently toss to coat. Leave for 15 minutes at room temperature, or longer in the refrigerator.

Preheat the griller (broiler) and while it is heating, thread four or five pieces of fish onto each bamboo skewer, making sure all of the skin is on one side of the skewer.

Grill the skewers 10 cm away from the heat with the skin side upwards, for 4 minutes. Turn the skewers and grill the other side for 4–5 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish.

Serve the fish kebabs immediately, accompanied by rice or chapatis and onion sambal.

TISRYA DUM MASALA

Spicy steamed mussels

SERVES: 4

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 large onions, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

3 teaspoons ground coriander

a pinch of chilli powder (optional)

½ teaspoon salt

1 kg fresh mussels, scrubbed and beards removed

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

lemon juice, to taste

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is golden. Add the chilli, turmeric, ground coriander and chilli powder, if using, and stir for 3 minutes, then add the salt and 250 ml (1 cup) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 5 minutes.

Add the mussels to the pan, cover, and continue to simmer for 10–1 5 minutes, or until the shells have opened. Remove from the heat, sprinkle in the chopped coriander and season with salt and lemon juice, to taste, Divide the mussels among serving bowls and spoon the cooking liquid over the top. Serve hot with rice.

Note: Do not use any mussels that are not tightly closed before cooking, and discard any that do not open during cooking.

PATRANI MACHCHI

Fish steamed in banana leaves

SERVES: 4

750 g skinless, boneless, firm white fish fillets or 4 x 250 g whole fish, scaled and cleaned

salt

banana leaves or foil, for wrapping

Masala

1 large lemon

2 onions, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

10 g (½ cup) fresh coriander leaves, chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground fenugreek

50 g (½ cup) freshly grated or desiccated coconut

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

Wash the fish and pat dry with paper towel. Rub over some salt and set aside while preparing the masala.

To make the masala, peel the lemon, removing all the white pith. Cut the lemon into pieces, discarding the seeds. Put the lemon into a food processor with half of the onion, the ginger, garlic, chilli, fresh coriander, cumin and fenugreek. Process until puréed, then add the coconut and process to combine.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the remaining onion and cook until golden. Add the lemon purée and cook for a few minutes, stirring to combine. Remove from the heat and add the salt and garam masala.

Coat each fish fillet with the masala mixture, wrap securely in banana leaves or foil and steam over a saucepan of gently simmering water for 30 minutes, turning parcels once halfway through cooking. Serve in the leaf parcels. Have a bowl or plate to collect leaves as each person unwraps the fish.

JHINGA BHAJIA

Prawn fritters

MAKES: ABOUT 20

250 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and finely chopped

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon garam masala

2 tablespoons besan (chickpea flour)

2 tablespoons plain flour

oil, for deep-frying

Combine the prawns in a bowl with the onion, garlic, salt, ginger, coriander, pepper, cumin and garam masala.

In a separate bowl, mix together the besan and plain flour.

Take 1 tablespoon of the prawn mixture at a time and use your hands to roll into small balls. Roll in the flour to coat, shaking off any excess.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the prawn balls, in batches, spooning the oil over as they cook, until they are golden brown all over. Drain on paper towel and serve hot.

JHINGA MOLEE

Prawns in coconut milk

SERVES: 4

A molee is a South Indian preparation in which the main ingredient is cooked in rich coconut milk; it is also used in Sri Lanka and among Malays and is often called a ‘white curry’. It is deliciously mild. Coconut milk being the main ingredient, the pan must not be covered at any time during cooking and the liquid should be stirred while coming to the boil to prevent curdling.

750 g raw large prawns

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

2 onions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 fresh red or green chillies, halved lengthways and seeded

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

8 curry leaves

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

1 teaspoon salt

lemon juice, to taste

Shell and devein the prawns if you like, but some local cooks say the prawns should be in their shells, for they retain more flavour this way. If you leave the heads on it is still possible to devein the prawns by inserting the tip of a sharp knife or a thin skewer behind the head and teasing out the intestinal tract.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion has softened but not browned. Add the chilli, turmeric and curry leaves and cook for 1 minute, then add the coconut milk and salt and stir until it starts to simmer. Simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes, then add the prawns and cook for 10–15 minutes, or until opaque.

Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice, to taste. Serve hot.

JHINGA KARI

South Indian prawn curry

SERVES: 4–6

If cooked prawns are used in this recipe, add them during the last 10 minutes, The paprika is used to give the curry the desired red colour, which in India would come from the large number of chillies or chilli powder used.

1 tablespoon desiccated coconut

1 tablespoon ground rice

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

12 curry leaves

2 onions, finely chopped

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons Madras-style curry paste

1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 teaspoons paprika

1½ teaspoons salt

1 kg raw prawns, peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Put the desiccated coconut into a dry frying pan and toast over medium heat, shaking the pan or stirring constantly until the coconut is golden brown. Remove to a plate and repeat with the ground rice. Put the toasted coconut and ground rice into a food processor with 125 ml (½ cup) of the coconut milk and process until smooth.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the curry leaves and cook for 1 minute. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until golden brown, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the curry powder, chilli powder, if using, and paprika and cook over low heat, stirring well — do not let the spices burn. Add the coconut mixture, the remaining coconut milk and salt, stirring until it starts to simmer — do not cover. Simmer gently for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the prawns to the pan, stir to combine, and simmer for a further 10–15 minutes, or until the prawns are cooked and the sauce has thickened. Stir in the lemon juice and serve hot with rice.

KAJU MURGH KARI

Curried chicken with cashews

SERVES: 6

This curry has a rich, thick sauce that makes it ideal for eating with the flatbreads of India.

1.7 kg whole chicken

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 large onions, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 tablespoons curry powder

1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

3 teaspoons salt

3 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander or mint leaves, plus extra to garnish

2 teaspoons garam masala

125 g (½ cup) plain yoghurt

125 g (¾ cup) raw cashews, finely ground

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces — separate drumsticks from thighs, wings from breasts, and cut breast into four. If large, the thighs and drumsticks can be chopped in halves using a heavy cleaver and cutting through the bone. The smaller the pieces of chicken, the better the spices can penetrate.

Heat the ghee in a large saucepan over medium–low heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until soft and golden, stirring occasionally. Add the curry powder and chilli powder, if using, and stir for 1 minute, then add the salt, tomato and coriander and cook to a pulp, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the chicken and stir well to coat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the chicken is tender, stirring with the wooden spoon every 15 minutes and scraping the base of the pan to remove any stuck-on bits. Stir in the garam masala and yoghurt and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Finally, add the cashews and heat through. Scatter over the extra coriander and serve hot with chapatis, parathas, puris or rice.

Note: For a milder flavour, use paprika instead of chilli powder. It will give a good red colour without adding heat. The cashews can be ground in a food processor or very finely chopped.

MURGH MUSALLAM

Whole chicken in spices and yoghurt

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

¼ teaspoon saffron strands

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon chilli powder

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground mace

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1½ teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons plain yoghurt

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 onions, thinly sliced

310 ml (1¼ cups) hot water or stock

Wipe the chicken inside and out with damp paper towel, removing the neck and giblets and cutting off the wing tips.

Gently heat the saffron strands in a frying pan over low heat for 1–2 minutes, shaking the pan frequently and making sure they don’t burn. Remove to a plate to cool and crisp, then crush to a powder in a cup, adding 1 tablespoon of hot water to dissolve. Mix together all of the ground spices and the garlic crushed with salt, into the yoghurt and stir into the dissolved saffron. Rub a tablespoon of the mixture inside the cavity of the chicken, then rub another tablespoonful over the outside. Leave to marinate for 1 hour.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until golden. Remove to a plate, then add the chicken to the pan and brown lightly on all sides. Return the onions to the pan. Stir the remaining marinade into the hot water and add to the pan. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the chicken is very tender. (Turn the chicken from time to time so it cooks first on one side and then the other.) The liquid should evaporate almost completely. Serve hot.

MURGH KALEJA KARI

Chicken liver curry

SERVES: 4

500 g chicken livers

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder

3 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 ripe tomato, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Wash and drain the chicken livers. Cut each one in half, and discard any yellow spots.

Heat the ghee in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is golden brown. Add the turmeric, chilli powder, coriander and cumin and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the garam masala, tomato and salt and cook, covered, until the tomato is pulpy. Stir and mash the tomato with a wooden spoon to speed up the process. Add the chicken livers, stir well, sprinkle over the pepper, cover, and cook for 15–20 minutes, or until the livers are firm and pale pink. Serve hot with rice.

MURGH BIRIANI

Muslim-style chicken biriani

SERVES: 6

For biriani, always use long-grain rice. Basmati rice with its thin, fine grains is the ideal variety to use in this festive dish.

Chicken savoury

1.25 kg chicken or chicken pieces

100 g ghee or 100 ml oil

2 tablespoons blanched almonds

2 tablespoons sultanas

4 small potatoes, peeled and halved

2 large onions, finely chopped

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

½ teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons plain yoghurt

2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

5 cm piece cinnamon stick

Biriani rice

500 g (2½ cups) basmati rice

2½ tablespoons ghee

1 large onion, finely chopped

½ teaspoon saffron strands

5 cardamom pods

3 whole cloves

1 cinnamon stick

½ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger ) powder (glossary)

2 tablespoons rosewater

1½ teaspoons salt

1 litre (4 cups) strong chicken stock

To make the chicken savoury, joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces. Heat half of the ghee in a small frying pan and cook the almonds until golden, then remove to a plate. Add the sultanas to the pan and cook for a few seconds, then remove to a plate and set aside. Cook the potato halves until brown, then remove to a plate.

Pour any ghee left in the pan into a large saucepan; add the remaining ghee and cook the onion, garlic and ginger until golden. Add the chilli powder, pepper, turmeric, cumin, salt and tomato and stir constantly for 5 minutes. Add the yoghurt, mint, cardamom and cinnamon stick, cover, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the tomato has cooked to a pulp. (It may be necessary to add a little hot water if the mixture becomes too dry and starts to stick to the pan.) When the mixture is thick and smooth, add the chicken pieces and stir well to coat. Cover and continue cooking over low heat until the chicken is tender, about 35–45 minutes — there should only be a little very thick gravy left when the chicken is cooked, if necessary cook uncovered for a few minutes to reduce the gravy.

To make the biriani rice, wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until golden. Add the saffron strands, cardamom pods, cloves, cinnamon stick, kencur powder and rice and stir to coat the rice. Add the rosewater and salt to the hot stock, then pour over the rice in the pan and stir well. Add the chicken savoury and potatoes and gently mix into the rice. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and steam for 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender — do not lift the lid or stir while cooking.

To serve, spoon the biriani into a serving dish and garnish with the almonds and sultanas. Serve immediately with onion sambal, cucumber with yoghurt and hot pickles.

Note: If liked, more colour can be added to this dish by garnishing with quartered hard-boiled eggs and cooked green peas.

KESAR MURGH

Saffron chicken

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg whole chicken

3 tablespoons ghee

1 large onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and sliced

¼ teaspoon saffron strands

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

1½ teaspoons salt

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and chilli and cook, stirring often, until the onion starts to turn golden.

Gently heat the saffron strands in a frying pan over low heat for 1–2 minutes, shaking the pan frequently and making sure they don’t burn. Remove to a plate to cool and crisp, then crush to a powder in a cup, adding 1 tablespoon hot water to dissolve. Add the saffron mixture to the pan with the cardamom and stir well. Add the chicken, increase the heat and cook for 4–5 minutes, turning often, until each piece of chicken is golden and coated with the saffron mixture. Add the salt, cover, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Uncover the pan and continue cooking until most of the liquid evaporates. Serve hot with parathas or rice.

BHUNA MURGH

Chicken dry curry

SERVES: 4–5

1.5 kg whole chicken

3 tablespoons oil or ghee

10 curry leaves, finely crumbled

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 large onion, finely chopped

2–3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 teaspoons curry powder

1 teaspoon tandoori mix

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon chilli powder or paprika

½ teaspoon amchur powder or 1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 teaspoons salt

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over low heat. Add the curry leaves and the mustard seeds and cook for 1 minute, then add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is golden brown, stirring from time to time. Add the curry powder, tandoori mix, cumin, garam masala, chilli powder and amchur powder. Cook for a further 1 minute, stirring well to combine, then add the salt and lemon juice, if using. Add the chicken and turn to coat in the spice mixture. Cover the pan and cook over low heat until the chicken is tender. Stir occasionally, and if necessary, add some extra hot water, about 60–125 ml (¼–½ cup) hot water. Serve hot with chapatis, parathas or rice.

DAHI MURGH

Chicken and yoghurt curry

SERVES: 4

1.5 kg whole chicken

1 onion, roughly chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

10 g (½ cup) fresh coriander or mint leaves, plus extra to garnish

1½ tablespoons ghee or oil

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons garam masala

1½ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

125 g (½ cup) plain yoghurt

2 ripe tomatoes, diced

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, coriander and 60 ml (¼ cup) water into a food processor and process to make a smooth purée. Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat and cook the onion mixture for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the turmeric, garam masala, salt and chilli powder, if using, and cook for a further 1 minute. Stir in the yoghurt and tomato, and cook until the liquid has been absorbed and the mixture is the consistency of a thick purée.

Add the chicken to the pan, turning to coat in the spice mixture, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the chicken is tender. If the liquid from the chicken has not evaporated by the time the flesh is cooked, uncover and increase the heat to dry it out, stirring gently at the base of the pan to prevent burning. Garnish with the extra coriander and serve with rice or chapatis.

MURGH TIKKA

Skewered barbecued chicken

SERVES: 4–6

750 g chicken breast fillets or thighs, cut into large cubes

1 onion, roughly chopped

1 garlic clove, sliced

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon garam masala

60 g (¼ cup) plain yoghurt

1 teaspoon salt

Soak 8–12 bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Put the onion, garlic and ginger into a food processor and process to a purée, adding the lemon juice if required. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the coriander, cumin, garam masala, yoghurt and salt. Add the chicken and toss to coat. Leave to marinate for least 2 hours at room temperature or longer in the refrigerator.

Thread the chicken pieces onto the bamboo skewers and cook over glowing coals or under a preheated griller (broiler) until cooked through. Serve with onion sambal and puris or chapatis.

DHANSAK

Chicken or lamb with lentils

SERVES: 8–10

A Parsi dish, dhansak is served every Sunday in many Parsi homes and plays an important part at festive meals. The list of ingredients looks formidable, but the recipe consists of just five parts — meat or chicken, lentils, vegetables, a blended masala and a dry masala. This dish is served with rice, onion kachumbar and other accompaniments, and is a very hearty and filling meal.

220 g (1 cup) yellow split peas

95 g (½ cup) dried chickpeas

115 g (½ cup) moong dhal (split dried mung beans)

100 g (½ cup) red lentils

2 kg whole chicken or 1.5 kg lamb shoulder, boned

1 tablespoon salt

1 eggplant (aubergine), chopped

1 slice of pumpkin (winter squash), peeled and chopped

1 large potato, peeled and chopped

2 onions, chopped, plus 4 onions, thinly sliced, extra

2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

50 g (2 cups) spinach leaves, chopped

1–3 tablespoons ghee or oil

Blended masala

6 dry red chillies, seeded

6 fresh green chillies, seeded

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

10 garlic cloves, peeled

10 g (½ cup) fresh mint leaves

10 g (½ cup) fresh coriander leaves

Dry ground masala

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds, bruised

¼ teaspoon ground fenugreek

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

Rinse the split peas, chickpeas, moong dhal and red lentils separately and soak in separate bowls overnight. Drain well.

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces, or cut the lamb into large cubes. Place the meat in a large saucepan with the split peas, chickpeas, moong dhal and lentils and pour in enough water to cover. Add the salt and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the eggplant, pumpkin, potato, chopped onion, tomato and spinach and continue cooking for 30 minutes, or until the meat is almost cooked. Remove the meat to a plate. Put all of the lentils and vegetables in a food processor and process to a smooth purée.

To make the blended masala, put all of the ingredients into a food processor with 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water and process to a smooth paste.

To make the dry ground masala, combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and stir well to combine.

Heat the ghee in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the sliced onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are brown. Remove to a plate. Add the blended masala and the dry ground masala to the pan at the same time and cook, stirring constantly, until they are well cooked and give out a pleasing aroma. Add half of the reserved onion, the meat and the vegetable purée. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20–30 minutes. Season with salt and serve garnished with the remaining onion.

MOGLAI MURGH

Chicken, Moghul-style

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon saffron strands

60 ml (¼ cup) boiling milk

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 large onions, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons No. 1 garam masala

1 teaspoon No. 2 garam masala with fragrant spices

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons ground almonds

125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces. Combine the garlic, ginger and turmeric and rub all over the chicken to coat.

Soak the saffron strands in the boiling milk for 10 minutes.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until golden brown, then remove to a plate. Add the chicken and brown lightly on all sides. Sprinkle over both kinds of garam masala and the salt, then add the saffron milk, half of the cooked onion and 125 ml (½ cup) hot water. Cover and cook until the chicken is tender, turning halfway through cooking.

Remove the chicken to a warm serving plate using a slotted spoon. Add the almonds and cream to the liquid in the pan and heat through, stirring well. Spoon the sauce over the chicken and serve, garnished with the remaining onion and the coriander. Serve hot with rice or chapatis.

MASALA MURGH

Grilled masala chicken

SERVES: 4–6

An easy way to cook spiced chicken, using some of the excellent masala mixtures available in paste and powder form.

1.25 kg whole chicken or 6 large chicken drumsticks

1 teaspoon tandoori mix

1 teaspoon green masala curry paste

1 teaspoon salt

3 teaspoons sesame oil

3 teaspoons ground rice

½ teaspoon garam masala

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces. Use a sharp knife to score the skin and flesh halfway to the bone.

Combine all of the remaining ingredients in a bowl with 1½ tablespoons water and rub all over the chicken, pressing some into the cuts. Set aside for at least 30 minutes to marinate (or you can cover the chicken and refrigerate it overnight).

Preheat the griller (broiler) to high and put the chicken on the rack, skin side down. Position the rack at the furthest point from the heat and grill for 10–15 minutes. Turn the chicken pieces over and grill for a further 10 minutes, or until the juices run clear when pierced with a knife. Serve hot, accompanied by rice or any of the Indian breads, and a sambal or raita.

TANDOORI MURGH

Spiced roast chicken

SERVES: 4

Tandoori chicken, perhaps the most well-known of all Indian chicken preparations, takes its name from the tandoor or clay oven in which it is cooked. Shaped like one of Ali Baba’s jars and usually buried in earth, the tandoor is heated by white-hot coals within. The chicken is threaded on a very long skewer, which is lowered into the oven, leaving the bird to cook over the coals. Try this version cooked in a gas or electric oven — it does not have the same flavour as when cooked over coals, but is too delicious to miss.

2 x 500 g skinless spatchcocks

½ teaspoon saffron strands

1 tablespoon boiling water

4 garlic cloves, peeled

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ teaspoon chilli powder

1 teaspoon paprika

1½ teaspoons garam masala

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons ghee

Make slits in the flesh of the spatchcock thighs, drumsticks and breasts, to allow the spices to penetrate. Dry the spatchcocks with paper towel.

Gently heat the saffron strands in a frying pan over low heat for 1–2 minutes, shaking the pan frequently to make sure they don’t burn. Remove to a plate to cool and crisp, then crush to a powder in a cup, adding the boiling water to dissolve.

Put the saffron water into a food processor with the garlic, ginger and lemon juice and process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and add all of the remaining ingredients except the ghee, stirring well to combine.

Rub the spice mixture all over the spatchcocks, especially in the slits made in the flesh. Cover and leave to marinate for 2 hours at least, or preferably refrigerate overnight.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (Gas 6). Put the ghee in a roasting tin and heat in the oven for a minute to melt the ghee, then spread over the base of the tin. Put the spatchcocks in the roasting tin, breast side down, so they are side by side but not touching. Spoon the melted ghee over the spatchcocks then roast for 20 minutes. Baste with ghee, turn on one side and roast for 15 minutes. Baste again, then turn to cook the other side for a further 15 minutes. Turn the spatchcocks, breast side up, baste well with ghee and pan juices, and cook for a further 10–15 minutes, basting every 5 minutes. Serve hot with parathas or naan roti and an onion salad.

Note: If the oven has a rotisserie, it is ideal for cooking tandoori chicken, but it will still be necessary to baste the birds because the skin has been removed.

BUHARI MURGH

Spiced deep-fried chicken

SERVES: 4

Named in honour of a favourite Muslim restaurant, where the fried chicken was like no other fried chicken we have ever tasted, this recipe evolved out of a nostalgic determination to try to duplicate the original.

2 x 500 g spatchcocks

3 spring onions, roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons peanut oil

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

½ teaspoon chilli powder

1½ teaspoons salt

oil, for frying

Cut each spatchcock in halves down the centre.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, lemon juice, chopped coriander and sesame and peanut oils into a food processor and process to a smooth purée. Add the ground spices and salt and process briefly to combine. Rub the spice mixture over the spatchcock halves, cover and refrigerate overnight.

Put the spatchcocks on a deep plate and steam for 30 minutes over a pan of simmering water. Pat dry with paper towel, being careful not to remove the spices.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the spatchcocks for 2 minutes, or until brown all over.

Serve with spiced pilau rice and onion sambal.

Note: Any juices that collect in the plate when steaming the spatchcocks can be added to the liquid when cooking the rice.

CHICKEN EVEREST

Spiced roasted chicken

SERVES: 6

My husband, Reuben, was a wonderful clarinettist with a flair for improvisation. That talent was apparent when he cooked, too. Here is one of his most successful variations on a traditional Indian theme, which accounts for the lack of an Indian name — and the presence of soy sauce (shock, horror!). Using ground rice in the marinade gives the chicken a wonderfully crisp coating.

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1½ tablespoons curry powder

1 teaspoon paprika

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon amchur powder or 2 tablespoons lemon juice

½ teaspoon ground curry leaves

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

2 tablespoons oil

2 tablespoons ground rice

2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Wipe the chicken inside and out with damp paper towel.

Combine all of the other ingredients with just enough warm water to make a paste of spreading consistency.

Rub the spice paste inside and outside the chicken. Set aside for at least 1 hour to marinate.

Preheat the oven to 170°C (Gas 3). Place the chicken in a roasting tin and roast for 1–1¼ hours, or until the juices run clear when pierced with a knife. If the chicken browns too much during cooking, cover with foil.

Serve the chicken warm or cold with rice, bread or a salad.

MOOTAY MOLEE

Eggs in coconut milk gravy

SERVES: 4–6

Among the South Indian Tamils, this is a favourite way of serving eggs.

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 fresh green chillies, seeded and thinly sliced

6 curry leaves

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

375 ml (1½ cups) thick coconut milk

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

6 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved

2 tablespoons lemon juice, or to taste

Heat the ghee in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, chilli and curry leaves and cook until the onion has softened — do not let it colour. Add the turmeric and stir for 1 minute, then add the thin coconut milk and simmer gently, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add the thick coconut milk and salt and stir constantly as it comes to simmering point, then add the eggs and simmer, uncovered, for a further 6–7 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice, to taste, and serve hot with rice.

AKOORI

Parsi scrambled eggs

SERVES: 4–6

6–8 large eggs, lightly beaten

80 ml (⅓ cup) milk

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons ghee

6 spring onions, finely chopped

2–3 fresh red or green chillies, seeded and chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

⅛ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves, plus extra, to garnish

1 ripe tomato, diced (optional), plus extra to garnish

½ teaspoon ground cumin

Combine the eggs and milk in a bowl with the salt and pepper.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the spring onion, chilli and ginger and cook until the onion has softened. Add the turmeric, coriander and tomato, if using, and cook for 1–2 minutes further, then stir in the egg mixture and the ground cumin. Cook over low heat, stirring and lifting the eggs as they begin to set on the base of the pan. Mix and cook until the eggs are of a creamy consistency — they should not be cooked until dry.

Remove the eggs to a serving plate and garnish with the tomato and coriander. Serve with chapatis or parathas.

ANDA KARI

Egg curry

SERVES: 4–6

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 onions, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder

2–3 ripe tomatoes, diced

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon garam masala

6 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion has softened and is golden brown. Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric and chilli powder and cook for a few seconds, then add the tomato and salt and stir over medium heat until the tomatoes are soft and pulpy. Add 125 ml (½ cup) hot water, cover, and simmer until the sauce is thick, then stir in the garam masala and the eggs and heat through. Serve hot with rice.

BADHAK VINDALOO

Hot and sour curry of duck

SERVES: 4

2.5 kg whole duck

6–10 dried red chillies, seeded

125 ml (½ cup) vinegar

6 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon sugar

Wash the duck and pat dry with paper towel. Cut the duck into serving pieces.

Soak the dried chillies in the vinegar for 5–10 minutes. Put the chillies, vinegar, garlic and ginger into a food processor and process until smooth.

Transfer the chilli mixture to a large bowl and stir in the ground spices and pepper. Add the duck and turn to coat all over. Cover and leave to marinate for 2 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the duck and marinade, salt and a little hot water. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1½–2 hours, or until the duck is tender, stirring occasionally and turning the duck so that it does not stick in the pan or burn. Add more water if necessary during cooking. At the end of the cooking time, stir in the sugar until dissolved. Serve with rice.

BADHAK BUFFADO

Spiced duck with cabbage and potatoes

SERVES: 4–5

2.5 kg whole duck

2 tablespoons oil

1 large onion, sliced

4 whole cloves

4 cardamom pods

1 cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 fresh red or green chillies

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons vinegar

4 potatoes, peeled

½ head cabbage, cut into wedges

150 g (1 cup) fresh or frozen peas

Wash the duck and pat dry with paper towel. Cut the duck into serving pieces.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and whole spices and cook until the onion is golden. Add the ginger, turmeric, pepper and coriander and cook for a further 1–2 minutes, then add the duck and cook, turning often, until the duck is lightly browned all over.

Add the whole chillies to the pan (seed them if a less hot flavour is preferred), with the salt, vinegar and 500 ml (2 cups) hot water. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the duck is almost tender, skimming the surface occasionally to remove any excess fat. Add the potatoes and cook for 10 minutes, then add the cabbage and cook for a further 10 minutes. Finally, add the peas, adjust the seasoning if necessary, cover, and cook until the peas are done. Serve hot.

KORMA

Lamb with spices and yoghurt

SERVES: 6

I have noticed that commercial kormas can be quite sweet, although traditionally this is not so. Whether this is to pander to Western taste buds, I’m not sure. If that is your preference, add a couple of teaspoons of sugar at the end of cooking.

1 kg boned leg of lamb

2 onions

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 large garlic cloves

40 g (¼ cup) raw cashews or blanched almonds

2–6 dried red chillies, seeded

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

½ teaspoon saffron strands

2 tablespoons boiling water

1 tablespoon ghee

2 tablespoons oil

2 teaspoons salt

125 g (½ cup) plain yoghurt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Cut the lamb into large cubes, trimming off any excess fat. Peel the onions; slice one thinly and set aside. Finely chop the other onion and place in a food processor with the ginger, garlic, cashews and chillies. Add 125 ml (½ cup) water and process to make a smooth paste. Add all of the ground spices and process until well combined.

Put the saffron strands into a small bowl with the boiling water and allow to soak while cooking the masala.

Heat the ghee and oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the sliced onion and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until soft and golden. Add the spice mixture and continue to cook, stirring constantly until the oil starts to separate.

Add 60 ml (¼ cup) water to the pan together with the salt and continue to stir until the liquid evaporates. Add the lamb and stir over medium heat until each piece is coated with the spice. Stir the saffron, crushing the strands against the side of the bowl, then add to the pan and stir to combine. Add the yoghurt and stir again until mixed through. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1 hour, or until the lamb is tender and the sauce has thickened. Make sure you stir occasionally, taking care that the spice mixture does not stick to the base of the pan. When the lamb is cooked, sprinkle with the coriander leaves, replace the lid and cook for 5 minutes further. Serve the lamb korma hot with rice.

MUTTON KARI

Lamb curry

SERVES: 6-8

This is curry in its simplest form, using commercial curry powder — make sure it is fresh and of good quality.

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 large onions, chopped

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 tablespoons curry powder

3 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons vinegar or lemon juice

1.5 kg boned shoulder of lamb, cut into 5 cm cubes

3 large tomatoes, chopped

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is golden. Add the curry powder, salt and vinegar and stir thoroughly. Add the lamb and cook, stirring constantly, until the lamb is coated with the spice mixture. Add the tomato, chilli and mint, cover, and cook over low heat for 1¼ hours, stirring occasionally, until the lamb is tender — the tomatoes should provide enough liquid for the meat to cook in but, if necessary, add up to 125 ml (½ cup) hot water to prevent the meat sticking to the pan. Add the garam masala and coriander for the last 5 minutes of cooking time. Serve hot.

Note: You can substitute goat for lamb, if preferred.

SEEKH BOTEE

Skewered mutton curry

SERVES: 4–6

1 kg boned leg of lamb or mutton, cut into cubes

about 30 thin slices of fresh young ginger

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground fennel

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons salt

1 ripe tomato, diced

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

Soak 8 long or 16 short bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Thread the lamb cubes on the bamboo skewers, alternating each piece of meat with a thin slice of ginger. Cut the ginger from a slender root so the slices will not be too big, or cut large slices in pieces.

Heat the ghee in a large frying pan over medium–low heat and cook the onion until it softens, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and continue cooking until the onion is golden brown. Add the coriander, cumin, fennel, turmeric and pepper and cook for 1 minute, then add the salt and tomato and cook for a further 3 minutes. Add the chilli and skewered meat and fry until the meat is lightly browned. Reduce the heat, cover, and cook until the meat is tender and the sauce has thickened — stir occasionally to prevent spices catching on the base of the pan. About 10 minutes before the end of cooking time sprinkle in the cinnamon, cardamom and cloves and stir well. Serve hot with rice and accompaniments.

KEEMA MATTAR PILAU

Minced meat and peas with rice

SERVES: 6

A wholesome one-dish meal, needing only pickles, sambal or raita as an accompaniment.

400 g (2 cups) long-grain rice

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

6 whole cloves

250 g minced (ground) lamb or beef

300 g (2 cups) fresh or frozen green peas

3 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the cumin, onion, garlic, ginger and whole cloves and cook until the onion is soft and golden brown.

Add the mince to the pan and cook over medium–high heat until the meat has browned, breaking up any large lumps with a fork. Add the peas and 125 ml (½ cup) hot water and stir well, then cover and cook until the peas are just tender. Add the rice and 875 ml (3½ cups) hot water and stir in the salt. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 10 minutes. Uncover and sprinkle with garam masala but do not stir. Replace the lid and continue cooking for a further 10 minutes, or until all of the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is cooked through. Serve hot.

KORMA PILAU

Rice with spiced lamb in yoghurt

SERVES: 6–8

¼ teaspoon saffron strands

185 ml (¾ cup) hot milk

2 tablespoons rosewater

3 drops kewra essence (optional) (glossary)

2 tablespoons ghee

1 quantity lamb korma

1 quantity yakhni pilau using lamb stock or water in place of chicken and cooking rice for 15 minutes only

1 ripe tomato, thinly sliced, to serve

1 cucumber, thinly sliced, to serve

1 onion, thinly sliced, to serve

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and thinly sliced, to serve

3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced or quartered, to serve

3 tablespoons slivered almonds, toasted, to serve

Soak the saffron strands in the hot milk and press to diffuse as much of the colour as possible. Stir in the rosewater and kewra essence, if using.

Preheat the oven to 150°C (Gas 2). Grease a large ovenproof casserole dish with the ghee and arrange the lamb korma and pilau in layers. Sprinkle each layer of pilau with the saffron and milk mixture. Finish with a layer of pilau. Cover the casserole and cook in the oven for 30 minutes. Garnish the top of the korma pilau with the remaining ingredients and serve hot.

Note: Alternatively, you can cook the pilau for 20 minutes. Remove two-thirds of the pilau from the pan in which it was cooked, sprinkle the pilau in the pan with one-third of the saffron milk mixture and add half of the lamb korma, spreading it to the sides of the pan. Cover with half the pilau, sprinkle the pilau with half of the remaining milk. Make a layer of the remaining korma and cover that with the rest of the pilau. Sprinkle the remaining milk over the top, cover, and cook over low heat for 25-30 minutes.

ROGHAN JOSH

Lamb in spices and yoghurt

SERVES: 6

3 dried red chillies, seeded

6–8 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 tablespoons desiccated coconut, toasted

2 tablespoons blanched almonds

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon poppy seeds

½ teaspoon ground fennel

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground mace

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 onion, finely chopped

4 cardamom pods, bruised

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

125 g (½ cup) plain yoghurt

2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1½ teaspoons salt

750 g lean boned leg or shoulder of lamb, cut into 5 cm cubes

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Soak the chillies in 125 ml (½ cup) hot water for 5 minutes. Drain well, reserving 2 tablespoons of the soaking liquid.

Put the garlic, ginger, coconut, almonds and chilli in a food processor with the reserved soaking liquid and process to make a smooth paste.

Put the ground coriander, cumin, poppy seeds and fennel in a small frying pan and shake over low heat for a few minutes until the spices become aromatic. Add to the chilli paste and continue to process until well combined and smooth. Remove from the food processor container to a bowl and stir through the cardamom, cloves, mace and pepper. Set aside.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring regularly, until the onion is golden brown. Add the cardamom pods, turmeric and chilli paste and cook until the ghee starts to separate from the spices. Add the yoghurt, a spoonful at a time, and stir to combine. Add the tomato and salt, and cook for a further 5 minutes, then add the lamb and cook over high heat, stirring and turning the meat so that each piece is well coated. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 1 hour or longer — the lamb should be very tender and the liquid almost absorbed. Stir occasionally to ensure that the spices don’t stick to the base of the pan.

Sprinkle the garam masala over the top, replace the lid and cook for a further 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the coriander leaves and serve immediately with plain rice or a pilau.

KASHMIRI ROGHAN JOSH

Lamb in yoghurt and spices, Kashmiri-style

SERVES: 6

Asafoetida is mixed with rice flour, but if you have the pure resin, much less is required to deliver the desired flavour to a dish.

¼ teaspoon asafoetida (optional)

125 g (½ cup) plain yoghurt

2 tablespoons ghee

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 kg boned leg of lamb, cut into 5 cm cubes

1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons Kashmiri garam masala

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Combine the asafoetida, if using, with 1 tablespoon of hot water and stir to dissolve. Add the yoghurt, ghee, salt and ground ginger and mix well to combine.

Place the yoghurt mixture in a large heavy-based saucepan with the lamb over low heat. Cover and cook, stirring regularly, until the juices given out by the lamb evaporate and the spice mixture starts to stick to the base of pan. Add 125 ml (½ cup) hot water, the chilli powder and fresh ginger and stir well with the wooden spoon, scraping the dried mixture from the base of the pan and incorporating it with the liquid added. Continue to cook, covered, until the liquid evaporates and the mixture sticks to the pan.

Add 375 ml (1½ cups) hot water to the pan and continue cooking this way until the meat is very tender, adding no more than 125 ml (½ cup) water at a time. Sprinkle over the garam masala and coriander, cover and cook for a further 10–15 minutes. Serve hot with rice, chapatis or parathas.

BADAMI GOSHT

Spiced lamb with saffron and almonds

SERVES: 6–8

½ teaspoon saffron strands

60 ml (¼ cup) boiling water

3 teaspoons salt

250 g (1 cup) plain yoghurt

1.5 kg boned leg of lamb, cut into 5 cm cubes

2 tablespoons ghee

2 tablespoons oil

1 cinnamon stick

6 cardamom pods, bruised

6 whole cloves

1 large onion, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 tablespoons ground almonds

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint (optional)

Soak the saffron strands in the boiling water for 10 minutes. Stir together the saffron water, salt and yoghurt in a large bowl, then add the lamb and toss to coat. Cover and set aside to marinate while preparing the remaining ingredients.

Heat the ghee and oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and cloves and cook for 1–2 minutes, then add the onion, garlic and ginger and continue cooking for about 10 minutes, or until the onion is soft and golden. Add the cumin and stir to combine.

Drain the lamb from the yoghurt marinade and add to the pan, turning to brown on all sides. Add the marinade and ground almonds. Mix any remaining marinade with 125 ml (½ cup) water and add to the pan. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 1 hour, or until the lamb is tender and the sauce has thickened. Towards the end of cooking stir with a wooden spoon to ensure it doesn’t stick to the base of the pan. Sprinkle with mint, if using, cover, and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Serve hot with rice. A light, slightly sweet rice dish such as Parsi pilau goes particularly well with this.

RAAN

Roast leg of lamb with Kashmiri spices

SERVES: 8

2.5 kg boned leg of lamb, trimmed of excess fat

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

4 garlic cloves, crushed

3 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 tablespoons lemon juice

½ teaspoon saffron strands

2 tablespoons boiling water

185 g (⅔ cup) plain yoghurt

2 tablespoons blanched almonds

2 tablespoons pistachios

3 teaspoons honey

Using a sharp knife make short deep slits all over the lamb.

Combine the ginger, garlic, salt, ground spices and lemon juice and rub all over the lamb, pressing into each cut — if the mixture is too dry to spread, add a little oil.

Soak the saffron strands in a bowl with the boiling water for 10 minutes. Place in a food processor with the yoghurt, almonds and pistachios and process until smooth. Spoon the purée over the lamb, then drizzle over the honey. Cover and set aside to marinate at least overnight in the refrigerator, or 2 days if possible.

Preheat the oven to 230°C (Gas 8). Put the lamb in a casserole dish, cover, and cook for 30 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 170°C (Gas 3) and cook for a further 1¾ hours, or until the lamb is cooked through. Uncover the lamb and cool to room temperature. Serve with namkin chawal.

QABARGAH or KAMARGAH

Lamb chops in spicy batter

SERVES: 4

This is a Kashmiri method of preparing lamb — first it is simmered in milk and spices, then fried in batter.

8 small lamb chops or cutlets

375 ml (1½ cups) milk

1 teaspoon salt

8 cardamom pods, bruised

8 whole cloves

1 cinnamon stick

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

2 teaspoons melted ghee or oil

Batter

40 g (⅓ cup) besan (chickpea flour)

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon chilli powder

a pinch each of ground cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and turmeric

Put the lamb chops in a saucepan with the milk, salt, cardamom pods, cloves, cinnamon stick, peppercorns and 125 ml (½ cup) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the meat is tender and the liquid evaporates. Remove from the heat and allow to cool while preparing the batter.

To make the batter, mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl with 80 ml (⅓ cup) water, beating with a wooden spoon until smooth. Let stand for 30 minutes.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Dip each lamb chop into the batter, coating them all over, then gently lower into the hot oil and fry until golden brown on both sides. Drain well on paper towel. Repeat until all are cooked, then serve hot with Indian breads and vegetables.

LAMB KEBABS

SERVES: 6–8

Let me confess that this is not a traditional Indian recipe — no Indian cook would use oregano or soy sauce. It evolved when I was in an unorthodox mood, and proved so delicious that I wrote it down and have used it frequently. Strangely enough, the kebabs still have an Indian flavour.

2 kg boned leg of lamb

1 large garlic clove

2 teaspoons salt

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon crushed dried curry leaves

1 teaspoon crushed dried oregano leaves

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Trim excess fat off lamb, cut meat into 2.5 cm cubes and put in a large bowl. Crush the garlic with the salt and combine in a bowl with the remaining ingredients, mixing well. Add the lamb and toss well to coat. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or up to 4 days.

Thread the pieces of meat onto six metal skewers and cook under a hot griller (broiler) for about 5 minutes on each side. When nicely brown, serve hot with boiled rice or parathas, accompanied by onion sambal and mint chutney.

KEEMA SEEKH KEBAB

Minced meat on skewers

SERVES: 4–6

500 g minced (ground) lamb or beef

2 tablespoons besan (chickpea flour)

1 onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

60 g (¼ cup) yoghurt

Combine the minced meat with all the other ingredients except the yoghurt. Mix thoroughly and knead well until the mixture becomes very smooth. Form portions of the mixture into sausage shapes around six metal skewers. (Use skewers that are square or rectangular as the minced meat mixture will slip on round skewers.)

Beat the yoghurt slightly and coat the meat with it, then place over a preheated barbecue hotplate or under a hot griller (broiler) until browned on all sides and cooked through. Serve with rice or Indian bread, vegetables and other accompaniments.

SEEKH KEBAB KARI

Skewered lamb in spices

SERVES: 4–6

These kebabs are marinated in a spice mixture and cooked in ghee before being simmered in curry.

750 g boned shoulder of lamb

thin slices fresh young ginger

Marinade

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

4 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Curry

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 onion, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, crushed

1 cinnamon stick

4 cardamom pods, bruised

4 whole cloves

1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

½ teaspoon black cumin seeds, lightly toasted

½ teaspoon garam masala

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced, to garnish

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

Soak 8–12 bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Cut the lamb into 2.5 cm cubes. Mix together all of the marinade ingredients in a large bowl, adding more oil if necessary to make it a spreading consistency. Add the lamb and toss well to coat. Cover and set aside to marinate for at least 2 hours, or in the refrigerator overnight if possible.

Thread the lamb cubes onto the skewers alternately with the ginger slices. If the ginger has a very strong flavour, use fewer slices, say one slice of ginger to every two or three cubes of lamb.

To make the curry, heat the ghee in a large saucepan or frying pan over high heat. Add the lamb skewers, a few at a time, and cook until they are browned on all sides. Remove to a plate once cooked.

Reduce the heat to medium and cook the onion and garlic gently, stirring constantly, until they are golden brown. Add the whole spices and cook for a further 1 minute, then add the chilli powder, if using, and stir for a few seconds. Return the meat to the pan, add 125 ml (½ cup) hot water, stir well to loosen any spices stuck on the base of the pan, cover, and simmer gently until the meat is tender and the sauce has reduced and thickened. Sprinkle over the cumin seeds and garam masala, stir to combine and heat through for a further 1 minute.

Serve hot, garnished with the chilli and coriander, and with rice and accompaniments or Indian breads on the side.

KASHMIRI KOFTA KARI

Curried meatballs, Kashmiri-style

SERVES: 6

A feature of Kashmiri Brahmin cooking is the absence of onions and garlic, both of which are supposed to inflame the baser passions. Kashmiri Brahmins also do not eat beef, so if this dish is to be made in the true Kashmiri tradition, use lamb instead.

750 g lean minced (ground) lamb

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and finely chopped, plus extra to garnish

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon chilli powder

2 teaspoons garam masala

2 teaspoons salt

125 g (½ cup) plain yoghurt

3 tablespoons ghee

1 tablespoon dried milk or khoa

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

Put the lamb into a bowl with the ginger, chilli, coriander, chilli powder and 1 teaspoon each of the garam masala and salt, adding 1 tablespoon of the yoghurt to moisten the spices and help distribute them evenly. A teaspoon or so of the ghee can also be added if the lamb is very lean. Mix well and form into small oval shapes.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the dried milk, sugar, the remaining yoghurt and the garam masala and salt and stir well to heat through, then add 125 ml (½ cup) hot water and bring to the boil. Add the koftas, reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until no liquid remains. Turn the koftas over, add another 125 ml (½ cup) hot water and the pepper, cover, and simmer until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Sprinkle over the cardamom, garnish with the extra chilli and serve with Indian breads or rice. (Cover after adding the cardamom so its fragrance will not dissipate.)

BOTEE KEBAB

Mutton kebab

SERVES: 6

500 g mutton

2 tablespoons desiccated coconut

1 large onion, roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled

1 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon poppy seeds

125 g (½ cup) plain yoghurt

Soak six bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Trim the mutton of excess fat but leave a thin layer, for it gives a delicious crisp layer when grilled. Cut the meat into bite-sized cubes. For Eastern cooking, meat is cut smaller than it is for Western-style kebabs. For one thing the flavours penetrate better; for another no knives are used at the table.

Toast the coconut in a dry frying pan over medium heat, stirring constantly, until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

Put the onion, garlic and ginger into a food processor and process to a smooth purée. Add the spices, toasted coconut, poppy seeds and yoghurt and process to combine — the coconut should be finely ground. Pour over the pieces of mutton in a large bowl and toss well to coat. Cover and set aside to marinate for at least 2 hours, or in the refrigerator overnight.

Thread the mutton cubes onto the skewers and cook under a preheated griller (broiler) or over glowing coals until brown all over and cooked through. Serve with chapatis, parathas or rice, with onion sambal.

DOH PIAZA

Spiced lamb with onions

SERVES: 8–10

The name of this dish translates literally as ‘two onions’, and it has never quite been settled whether this means the onions are added in two forms — raw and fried — or at two different stages of cooking. Or, that the dish has twice as much onion as most other preparations of this type.

1.5 kg boned shoulder or leg of lamb or mutton

1 kg onions

6 garlic cloves

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

60 g (¼ cup) plain yoghurt

1–2 teaspoons chilli powder, or to taste

1 teaspoon paprika

3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 tablespoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons black cumin seeds

3 tablespoons ghee

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

8 cardamom pods

1 teaspoon garam masala

Trim the lamb of any excess fat and cut into large cubes.

Slice half of the onions thinly and chop the rest. Put the chopped onions into a food processor with the garlic, ginger, yoghurt, chilli powder, paprika, coriander leaves, ground coriander and cumin seeds and process until smooth.

Heat the ghee and oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and cook, stirring often, until golden. Remove to a plate. Add the cubed meat to the pan, in batches, and cook over high heat until browned on all sides. Remove to a plate when cooked. Set aside.

Add a little more ghee or oil to the pan if needed, and cook the onion purée over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it becomes aromatic and oil starts to appear around the edges of the mixture.

Return the meat to the pan, add the cardamom pods, stir well, then cover and cook over low heat until the meat is almost tender, stirring occasionally. It might be necessary to add a little water, but usually the juices given out by the meat are sufficient. When the meat is tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, add the garam masala and reserved fried onion, cover and continue to cook over low heat for a further 15 minutes. Serve the spiced lamb with rice or Indian breads.

NARGISI KOFTA

Eggs in meatballs

SERVES: 6

Named for their resemblance to the yellow and white flowers of the narcissus, these meatballs are fried, then simmered in curry and served as a main dish. For picnic fare try them just fried and served with a salad.

Meatballs

7 small eggs

500 g twice-minced (ground) lamb or beef

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 fresh green chilli, seeded and finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ tablespoons besan (chickpea flour)

1 tablespoon plain yoghurt ghee or oil, for frying

Curry

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

1 onion, finely chopped

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder

2 large ripe tomatoes

1 teaspoon salt

125 g (½ cup) plain yoghurt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Put 6 of the eggs into a saucepan of cold water and bring slowly to simmering point. Stir the eggs gently for the first 5 minutes to centre the yolks. Simmer for a further 10 minutes, then run cold water into the pan until the eggs are cold. Peel them and set aside.

Put the meat into a large heavy-based frying pan with the onion, garlic, ginger, chilli, salt, garam masala, turmeric and 125 ml (½ cup) water. Stir well, bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 20–30 minutes, or until the meat is well cooked. Stir in the besan and continue cooking until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, then knead the meat mixture with your hands until it is very smooth, adding a little yoghurt if necessary to moisten it.

Divide the meat into six equal portions and mould each one around one of the hard-boiled eggs. Beat the remaining egg in a bowl.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Dip the koftas into the beaten egg, then gently lower into the hot oil and deep-fry until golden brown all over. Drain on paper towel. Cut each kofta in half using a sharp knife and serve with salad, or proceed with the next step to make curried meatballs.

To make the curry, heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and pale golden. Add the garlic and ginger and fry, stirring, until the onions are golden brown. Add the garam masala, turmeric and chilli powder, stir for a few seconds, then add the tomato and salt. Cover the pan and cook to a pulp, stirring occasionally. Mash the yoghurt smoothly, mix with 125 ml (½ cup) hot water and add to the simmering curry. Stir well and cook uncovered until the sauce has thickened.

If the koftas are prepared beforehand they can be put into the sauce to heat through, then cut in halves and served with rice or chapatis. Garnish with the fresh coriander leaves to serve.

ALU CHAP

Spicy potato and savoury mince rissoles

SERVES: 4

1 kg potatoes, peeled and chopped

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons finely chopped mint leaves

2 spring onions, finely chopped

1 fresh green chilli, seeded and finely chopped

250 g savoury mince filling

oil, for deep-frying

1 egg, lightly beaten

110 g (1 cup) dry breadcrumbs

Boil the potatoes in a saucepan of boiling water until tender, then mash until smooth. Mix in the salt, mint, spring onion and chilli and stir well to combine.

Divide the potato mixture into eight or ten even-sized portions and shape each into a flat circle. Place a spoonful of savoury mince filling in the centre of each and push the potato around it to enclose the meat so they resemble a thick round patty.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Dip each patty in the the egg, then in the breadcrumbs, shaking off any excess. Gently lower the patties into the hot oil and deep-fry, in batches, until golden brown. Drain on paper towel. Serve hot with mint chutney.

KEEMA KARI

Minced meat and split pea curry

SERVES: 4–6

110 g (½ cup) green or yellow split peas

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 onions, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander or mint leaves

4 small ripe tomatoes, chopped

2 teaspoons salt

500 g minced (ground) beef or lamb

2 teaspoons garam masala

Wash the split peas and soak in a bowl of water while preparing the other ingredients. Drain well.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until soft. Add the turmeric, chilli powder, coriander, tomato and salt and stir over medium heat for a few minutes, then add the meat and drained split peas. Stir until well combined, then cover and simmer for 40 minutes, or until the meat and peas are tender, stirring from time to time (you may need to add a little water if the mixture becomes too dry).

Add the garam masala and cook until the liquid evaporates and the mixture fries in the fat left in the pan. At this stage stir frequently so it does not burn. Serve this dry curry with Indian bread and other accompaniments such as vegetable dishes, sambals and chutneys.

KEEMA MATTAR

Minced meat with fresh peas

SERVES: 4–6

2 tablespoons ghee

1 large onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder

500 g minced (ground) lamb or goat

125 g (½ cup) plain yoghurt

150 g (1 cup) fresh or frozen green peas

1 teaspoon garam masala

1½ teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and thinly sliced, to garnish

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until it softens. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is golden brown. Add the turmeric and chilli powder and stir for a few seconds, then add the mince and cook, turning the meat constantly to break up any large lumps, until it starts to brown. Stir in the yoghurt and peas, cover, and cook for 15 minutes.

Add the garam masala and salt and continue cooking until the meat and peas are tender. Serve the minced meat garnished with the coriander leaves and chilli.

ALU GOSHT KARI

Meat and potato curry

SERVES: 6–8

1.5 kg skirt or other lean stewing steak

60 ml (¼ cup) oil or 2 tablespoons ghee

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

6 garlic cloves, chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

3 onions, thinly sliced

1½ teaspoons ground turmeric

2 tablespoons ground coriander

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons chilli powder

3 teaspoons salt

80 ml (⅓ cup) vinegar

2 teaspoons garam masala

750 g potatoes, peeled and cubed

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Trim the steak of any excess fat and cut into small cubes.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook until they start to pop. Add the fenugreek seeds, garlic, ginger and onion and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the onion just starts to brown. Add the turmeric and cook for 1 minute. Add the coriander, cumin and chilli powder and stir for a minute or so, then add the salt and 2 tablespoons of the vinegar and stir until the liquid dries up.

Sprinkle the garam masala into the pan and mix well, then add the steak, stirring to coat in the spices. If there is spice sticking to the base of the pan, add the remaining vinegar and stir, scraping as much as possible from the base of the pan. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 1½ hours, or until the meat is tender — you may need to add a little water if the mixture becomes too dry. Add the potato, cover once more, and cook for 20–25 minutes, or until cooked through. Sprinkle with the coriander leaves and serve hot with rice or Indian bread.

SHIKAR VINDALOO

Pork vindaloo

SERVES: 6–8

Because of the high acid content of this recipe, cook it in an earthenware, enamel or stainless steel (non-reactive) vessel. Choose a cut of meat that suits your preference. Belly will be the fattiest.

1 kg pork neck, belly or scotch fillet

6–8 large dried red chillies

250 ml (1 cup) vinegar

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

7 garlic cloves

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 teaspoons salt

2–3 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 onions, finely chopped

1 tablespoon soft brown sugar (optional)

Trim the pork of any excess fat and cut into large cubes.

Soak the chillies in the vinegar for 10 minutes. Any kind of vinegar may be used, but if using double-strength cider vinegar dilute with an equal quantity of water. (Ideally, use coconut vinegar, which gives the correct flavour.)

Put the chillies and vinegar, ginger and garlic into a food processor and process until smooth. Stir through the ground spices and salt. Add the pork and toss to coat. Set aside to marinate for at least 2 hours.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and all the liquid from the onion has evaporated and the oil comes out. Drain the meat and add to the pan, turning often until the meat changes colour, then add the marinade, cover, and simmer over low heat until the meat is well cooked, about 1½ hours. Stir in the sugar, if using. Serve hot with rice and accompaniments.

GOANI KEBAB

Goanese kebab curry

SERVES: 6

500 g lean lamb

500 g pork neck or scotch fillet steak

thin slices fresh ginger

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 fresh red or green chillies, seeded

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons black mustard seeds, ground

2 teaspoons chilli powder, or to taste

2 teaspoons garam masala

125 ml (½ cup) vinegar

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Soak six bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Trim the lamb and pork of any excess fat and cut into large cubes. Thread the meats alternately with the ginger slices onto the skewers.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and chilli and cook until the onion softens and turns golden brown. Add the ground spices and garam masala and continue stirring for 1 minute. Add the vinegar, salt, pepper and 125 ml (½ cup) water and bring to the boil. Add the lamb skewers, turning to coat in the spice mixture, then cover and cook over low heat until the meat is tender — turn the kebabs once or twice during cooking. When the meat is tender, cook uncovered until the sauce has thickened and darkened. Serve hot with rice and accompaniments.

SAME KA BHAJI

Spicy fried green beans

SERVES: 4–6

Use any kind of beans, such as broad (fava) beans, French beans, string beans or snake (yard-long) beans — they all go well with this type of light spicing.

500 g green beans

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

1 onion, finely chopped

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon garam masala

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 teaspoons salt

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped or 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water

a squeeze of lemon juice

Trim the beans, remove the strings if needed, and cut them into bite-sized pieces.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over medium–low heat and cook the onion and ginger until the onion is golden. Add the turmeric, garam masala, chilli powder and salt and cook for 2 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the tomato and stir-fry until the tomatoes are cooked to a pulp and most of the liquid evaporates. Add the beans and stir well, partially cover the pan, and cook until the beans are just tender — do not overcook. Stir in the lemon juice to taste and serve immediately.

Variation: You can make a drier version of this bean recipe by omitting the tomato and lemon juice — this makes the flavour less acidic.

SAAG

Purée of leafy greens

SERVES: 4–6

500 g spinach or other leafy greens

2 turnips or 1 large white radish, peeled and diced

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds or panch phora

1 onion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon garam masala

lemon juice, to taste (optional)

Wash the greens, removing any tough stalks. Break the leaves into small pieces and place into a large saucepan with a sprinkling of water. Add the turnip to the pan, cover and cook over low heat until the vegetables soften. Drain any liquid from the pan, then chop or mash the vegetables together.

Heat the ghee in a frying pan over medium heat and cook the mustard seeds or panch phora for 1 minute, then add the onion and ginger and cook until the onion is soft and golden. Add the chilli powder, turmeric, salt and mashed vegetables, stir well and cook for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the garam masala, cover, and leave on low heat for a few minutes longer until all of the liquid evaporates. Taste and season with salt or lemon juice, if desired. Serve with chapatis or rice and curries.

SUKHE PHALLI KARI

Curried dried beans

SERVES: 4

Make this curry with Bengal peas, chickpeas, French (haricot) beans, butter beans (lima beans) or any favourite variety of dried beans.

250 g dried beans

2 teaspoons salt

1½ tablespoons ghee or oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped

1–2 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Put the dried beans in a bowl with enough water to cover and leave to soak overnight. Rinse well and drain.

Put the beans into a large saucepan with enough fresh water to cover and add 1 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to the boil, cover, and cook until tender. Add more hot water during cooking if needed, to keep the beans submerged. Drain and reserve the cooking liquid.

Heat the ghee in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until soft and golden, then add the turmeric, garam masala, tomato, chilli, mint, remaining salt and the lemon juice. Add the beans and stir well over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add 250 ml (1 cup) of the reserved cooking liquid, cover, and cook over low heat until the tomato and chilli are soft and the sauce has thickened. Serve with rice or Indian breads as part of a vegetarian meal.

MATTAR CHILKA KARI

Curried pea pods

SERVES: 4

When green peas are young and tender, save the pods after shelling the peas — they are delicious when cooked this way.

pods from 500 g peas

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 ripe tomatoes, diced

4 small potatoes, peeled and diced

Separate half of the pods. To do this, hold each half with the inner side towards you and bend the stalk end inwards so that the fleshy part of the pod cracks. Then pull downwards, peeling off and discarding the thin, silk like inner lining of the pod. Wash the pods and remove any strings from the edges.

Heat the ghee in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and ginger and cook until soft and golden. Add the turmeric, salt, garam masala and chilli powder, if using, and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes, then add the tomato, potato and pea pods. Cover and cook until the potato and pea pods are tender — it may be necessary to add a few spoonfuls of water if the curry starts to stick to the base of the pan, but if it is cooked on low heat and stirred occasionally, the liquid from the tomato will be sufficient. This curry should be quite dry. Serve with chapatis, parathas or rice.

DHAL

Lentil purée

SERVES: 4–6

Any type of lentils can be used for this, but red lentils and mung dhal are the quickest cooking types and do not need soaking. Other types of lentils should be soaked overnight before cooking.

250 g (1¼ cups) red lentils

1½ tablespoons ghee or oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon garam masala

Wash the lentils thoroughly, removing and discarding those that float on the surface. Drain well.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is golden brown. Add the turmeric and stir well to coat. Add the drained lentils and cook for 1–2 minutes, then add 750 ml (3 cups) hot water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until the lentils are just tender. Add the salt and garam masala, mix well and continue cooking until the lentils are soft and the consistency is similar to porridge — if there is too much liquid, leave the lid off the pan to speed up evaporation.

Serve the dhal plain or garnished with sliced onions, fried until deep golden brown. Eat with rice, Indian breads, or as a light meal by itself.

ALU MATTAR SUKHE

Potato and pea dry curry

SERVES: 6

500 g potatoes

500 g fresh peas in the pod

2 tablespoons ghee

1 teaspoon panch phora

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or coriander leaves

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Peel and dice the potatoes. Shell the peas.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the panch phora and cook until the seeds start to brown, then add the onion and cook until it softens and starts to colour. Add the mint and ginger and cook for a few seconds, stirring well.

Add the turmeric, salt and chilli powder, if using, to the pan and stir well. Add the potato and peas, and sprinkle over 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 20 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally. Sprinkle with the garam masala and lemon juice, cover again, and continue cooking for a further 10 minutes. Serve hot with rice or chapatis.

GOBI FOOGATH

Spicy fried cabbage

SERVES: 6

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

2–3 fresh green or red chillies, seeded and sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ head white cabbage, coarsely shredded

1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste

2 tablespoons desiccated coconut

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and chilli and cook until the onion is soft. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry until golden. Add the turmeric and cabbage and stir-fry to combine, then cover and cook over low heat for 10–15 minutes or until the cabbage is tender. Sprinkle with the salt, add the coconut and stir well. Serve with rice and curries.

GOBI BHAJI

Spicy fried cauliflower

SERVES: 4

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

½ teaspoon panch phora

1 large garlic clove, crushed

3 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 small head cauliflower, broken into florets

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon garam masala

Heat the oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook until they start to pop. Add the panch phora, garlic and ginger and stir-fry until golden. Add the turmeric, salt, cauliflower and 60 ml (¼ cup) water and cook for 5 minutes, or until the cauliflower is tender. Sprinkle with the garam masala and serve with rice or chapatis.

PALAK BHAJI

Spicy fried spinach

SERVES: 4–6

2 tablespoons ghee

2 tablespoons oil

2 large onions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon black cumin seeds (optional)

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

500 g English spinach, stalks trimmed and rinsed well

Heat the ghee and oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until golden, then add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes. Add the cumin seeds, black cumin seeds, if using, the ground cumin, coriander, turmeric, chilli powder, if using, and salt and mix well.

Add the spinach to the pan with only the water that remains on the leaves after washing. Toss to coat in the spicy mixture, then reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the spinach is tender — it may be necessary to add a little more water to prevent the spinach sticking to the pan. Serve with rice, chapatis or other Indian breads.

ALU BARTHA (1)

Spicy mashed potatoes (cold)

SERVES: 6

500 g floury potatoes

2 tablespoons ghee, melted

60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

125 ml (½ cup) hot milk

25 g (½ cup) finely chopped fresh mint leaves

2 spring onions or 1 small onion, finely chopped

Cook the potatoes in their skins in a saucepan of boiling water until tender. Drain well, then peel and mash. Add the ghee, lemon juice and salt, and mix in just enough hot milk to give a smooth, creamy consistency. Stir through the mint and spring onion.

To serve, pat the mashed potato into a flat shape on a plate, or pile in a bowl. Serve cold or at room temperature.

GOODA BARTHA

Zucchini purée

SERVES: 4

500 g zucchini (courgette) or summer squash

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

1 onion, finely chopped

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

Peel and halve each zucchini lengthways. Scrape out and discard the seeds and roughly chop the flesh. Place the zucchini in a saucepan with enough water to cover and cook over low heat until soft. Drain well and mash.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the cumin and mustard seeds and stir-fry until the mustard seeds start to pop. Add the chilli and onion and cook until the onion softens. Add the zucchini, salt and chilli powder, if using, and cook for 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

ALU BARTHA (2)

Spicy mashed potatoes (hot)

SERVES: 6

500 g potatoes

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 fresh green chilli, seeded and sliced

1 small onion, finely chopped

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon salt a pinch of chilli powder

1–2 tablespoons lemon juice

chopped fresh mint or coriander leaves, to garnish

Cook the potatoes in their skins in a saucepan of boiling water until tender. Drain well, then peel and mash.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook until they start to pop, then add the chilli and onion and cook until the onion is soft and golden. Add the turmeric, garam masala, salt and chilli powder and stir for a few moments, then add the lemon juice. Mix in the potatoes stirring until well combined and heated through. Serve sprinkled with the mint or coriander leaves.

MATTAR PANIR

Peas with fresh cheese

SERVES: 4–6

Fresh homemade cheese is a favourite addition to vegetable curries, for it is an important source of protein for strict vegetarians. Make the panir as described. For convenience and speed, when panir is not commercially available, substitute baked ricotta. Frozen peas can be used instead of fresh.

250 g panir or baked ricotta cheese

125 ml (½ cup) melted ghee or oil

2 onions, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 firm ripe tomatoes, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

750 g (5 cups) fresh or frozen peas

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint or coriander leaves

If making the panir, let the curds hang in the muslin (cheesecloth) until cool, then squeeze out as much liquid as possible by twisting the muslin. Put the wrapped curds on a flat plate and put another plate or a chopping board on top. Weigh it down and leave for about 6 hours until very firm. Remove the muslin and cut the cheese into small cubes. If not using immediately, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed. If using baked ricotta, cut into small cubes.

Heat the ghee or oil in a large frying pan and cook the cheese, in batches, turning them carefully so they brown on all sides. As each batch is done, remove to a plate with a slotted spoon.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the pan. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook over medium–low heat, stirring frequently, until the onion is golden. Add the ground spices and stir for 1 minute further, then add the tomatoes, salt and half of the garam masala. Cook and stir until the tomato is pulpy, adding a little hot water if the mixture seems too dry. Add the fresh peas, if using, and cook until they are just tender, about 20 minutes. Add the cheese and half of the mint, cover, and simmer for a further 10 minutes, or until the peas are cooked. Sprinkle with the remaining garam masala and mint and serve hot with rice or chapatis.

Note: If using frozen peas, add at the same time as the cheese.

SABZI BHAJI

Fried mixed vegetables

SERVES: 6

This recipe is a colourful combination of lightly spiced vegetables — take care not to overcook them.

3 large carrots

250 g green beans

¼ head cauliflower

½ head small green cabbage

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds or panch phora

8 curry leaves (optional)

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon chilli powder or 1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced

1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste

Peel the carrots and cut into thin matchsticks. Trim the beans, removing the strings if needed and slice diagonally. Cut the cauliflower into florets, leaving some stem on. Coarsely shred the cabbage.

Heat the ghee in a large frying pan over low heat. Add the mustard seeds and the curry leaves, if using, and cook for 2 minutes, stirring well. Add the garlic, ginger, turmeric and chilli and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes, then add the carrots, beans and cauliflower. Stir over medium heat until the vegetables are half-cooked, then add the cabbage and continue to stir-fry for a further 5 minutes, or until all of the vegetables are tender but still crisp. Sprinkle with the salt, mix well, cover and cook for a final 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

ALU CHAP

Potato rissoles with peas

SERVES: 4

1 kg potatoes

salt, to taste

1 tablespoon ghee

1 onion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon garam masala

¼ teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

1 teaspoon salt

300 g (2 cups) fresh or frozen peas

oil, for deep-frying

2 eggs, beaten

dry breadcrumbs, for coating

Cook the potatoes in their skins in a saucepan of boiling water until tender. Drain well, then peel and mash until quite smooth, adding salt to taste.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, ginger and coriander and cook until the onion is soft and golden. Add the turmeric, garam masala and chilli powder, if using, then stir in the salt and peas. Cover and cook until the peas are tender and all the liquid has been absorbed. If using fresh peas, add a little water when cooking them. Remove from the heat.

Divide the potato mixture into eight even-sized portions and shape each one into a flat circle. Put a spoonful of the peas in the centre and enclose with the potato, moulding it smoothly into a patty shape.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Dip each rissole first in the egg, then roll in the breadcrumbs to coat on both sides. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the rissoles, two or three at a time, until golden brown all over. Drain on paper towel and serve hot.

TAAZI KHUMBEN ALU MATTAR KARI

Curried mushrooms, potatoes and peas

SERVES: 6

500 g small button mushrooms

500 g small new potatoes

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

1 small onion, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, crushed (optional)

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

150 g (1 cup) fresh or frozen peas

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

Wipe the mushrooms with damp paper towel. If the mushrooms are large cut in halves or quarters, leaving the stems on. Wash and scrub the potatoes and if large cut into halves or quarters.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 3 minutes, then add the ginger, garlic and coriander and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes. Add the turmeric and chilli powder, if using, stir together for 1 minute, then add the mushrooms, potato and peas. Add 125 ml (½ cup) hot water and the salt and stir well. Cover, and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with the garam masala and stir well, then re-cover and cook for a further 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender enough to be pierced with a skewer. Serve with rice or Indian bread.

Note: Frozen peas can be used instead of fresh, but add them during the last 15 minutes of cooking.

DHINGRI KARI

Mushroom curry

SERVES: 4

Choose large, field mushrooms, because they have the strongest flavour.

500 g mushrooms

2 leeks, white part only, or 4 spring onions

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

6 curry leaves

2 teaspoons curry powder

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon garam masala

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

2 teaspoons lemon juice

Wipe the mushrooms clean, remove the stems and chop the caps into quarters. Thinly slice the leeks or spring onions.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger, curry leaves and leek and cook until soft but not brown. Add the curry powder, salt and mushrooms and continue to stir over low heat until the mushrooms are soft. Cover and cook for 8–10 minutes. Sprinkle with the garam masala, add the coconut milk and cook uncovered, stirring constantly, until just heated through. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Serve with rice or vegetable pilaus.

ALU BHAJI

Savoury fried potatoes

SERVES: 4

Serve these as an accompaniment to thosai or any of the Indian breads. You can also mash this potato mixture slightly and use it to fill chapatis, puris and kachoris before cooking.

500 g potatoes

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds

2 onions, finely chopped

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

1 teaspoon salt

Cook the potatoes in their skins in a saucepan of boiling water until tender. Drain well, then peel and dice.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook until they start to pop. Add the onion and cook until it is soft and golden. Add the turmeric and chilli powder and stir, then add the potato, sprinkle over the salt and toss gently to coat in the seasonings. Serve hot or cold.

GUJARATI KHATTAI ALU

Gujarati potatoes

SERVES: 4–6

500 g floury potatoes

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1½ tablespoons ghee or oil

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

2 tablespoons desiccated coconut

Peel and dice the potatoes. Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Dissolve the sugar in the tamarind liquid.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat and cook the mustard seeds until they start to pop. Add the turmeric, chilli powder, coriander and cumin and cook over low heat for 1 minute. Add the potato and toss gently to coat in the seasoning. Add the salt and 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water, cover, and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Add the tamarind liquid, chilli and desiccated coconut and stir well. Cover and cook for a further 5–10 minutes, or until the potato is cooked through. Serve hot with rice or chapatis.

BAIGAN DAHI

Eggplant with yoghurt

SERVES: 6

2 eggplants (aubergines)

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

2 onions, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder

1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon garam masala (optional)

2 teaspoons sugar (optional)

250 g (1 cup) plain yoghurt

Put the eggplants under a preheated griller (broiler), about 15 cm from the heat and grill until the skins blacken and the eggplants are completely soft. Cool, then peel the skin and roughly mash or finely chop the flesh.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is soft and golden. Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric and chilli powder and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the salt and eggplant, stirring to combine, and cook for 3–4 minutes. Sprinkle with the garam masala, if using, cover, and cook for a further 5 minutes. Season with more salt if necessary, and, if liked, a little sugar. Mash the yoghurt smoothly and mix into the eggplant before serving. Serve with rice, curries and other accompaniments.

BRINJAL BARTHA

Eggplant purée

SERVES: 6

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

2 onions, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 large eggplants (aubergines), diced

2 large ripe tomatoes, diced

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and ginger and stir-fry until they start to brown. Add the turmeric, chilli powder, salt and garam masala and mix well. Add the eggplant and tomato and stir well to combine. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the vegetables have softened and the purée has thickened, stirring often to prevent them from sticking to the base of the pan. Remove from the heat and serve hot or cold.

PIAZ BHAJI

Spicy fried onions or leeks

SERVES: 4–6

5–6 large leeks or 3 large onions, peeled

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

1 teaspoon panch phora or cumin seeds

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Wash the leeks well, if using. Thickly slice the leeks or onions.

Heat the ghee in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the panch phora and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes, then add the turmeric and ginger and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the leek or onion and continue stir-frying for 5 minutes. Sprinkle the garam masala and salt into the pan, cover, and cook until tender. Serve hot.

BHENDI BHAJI

Spicy fried okra

SERVES: 4–6

It is important to buy tender okra, for the mature beans are tough and stringy. Test by bending the tip of the bean — if tender, it will snap, but if it is old it will merely bend and you will not be able to break it.

500 g okra

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

½ teaspoon panch phora

1 onion, finely chopped

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon garam masala

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

Wash the okra, cut off the stems and cut into bite-sized pieces.

Heat the ghee in a frying pan over low heat. Add the panch phora and cook for 1 minute, then add the onion and stir-fry until it starts to turn golden. Add the turmeric, salt, garam masala and chilli powder, if using. Add the okra, stir well, then cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the okra is tender. Serve with rice or chapatis.

BHENDI KARI

Okra curry

SERVES: 4–6

500 g okra

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

2 fresh green chillies, halved lengthways and seeded

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1½ cups thin coconut milk or buttermilk

salt, to taste

Wash the okra, cut off the stems and cut into bite-sized pieces.

Heat the ghee in a frying pan over medium–low heat. Add the onion and chilli and stir-fry until the onion is golden. Add the garlic, ginger and turmeric and stir-fry for 1 minute further, then add the okra and cook for 3–4 minutes. Add the coriander, cumin and coconut milk and season with salt, to taste. Continue to simmer over low heat for 10–12 minutes, or until the okra is tender. Serve hot with rice.

KHIRA PACHCHADI

Cucumbers in spiced yoghurt

SERVES: 4–6

25 g (¼ cup) desiccated coconut

2 long (telegraph) cucumbers, peeled, seeded and grated

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

1 teaspoon salt

375 g (1½ cups) plain yoghurt

1 teaspoon ghee or oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

½ teaspoon nigella seeds (optional)

Sprinkle 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water over the coconut in a bowl and toss lightly to moisten. Add the cucumber, chilli, salt and yoghurt and stir well.

Heat the ghee in a small frying pan over low heat. Add the mustard seeds and nigella seeds and cook until they start to pop. Stir into the yoghurt mixture. Serve cold.

KELA PACHCHADI

Bananas in spiced yoghurt

SERVES: 6

3 tablespoons freshly grated or desiccated coconut

250 g (1 cup) yoghurt

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 teaspoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

3 large ripe bananas, peeled and sliced

1 teaspoon ghee or oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

If using desiccated coconut, sprinkle 1 tablespoon hot water over it to moisten. Season the yoghurt with lemon juice, sugar, salt and chilli powder, and stir in the banana and coconut.

Heat the ghee in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the cumin seeds and mustard seeds and cook until they start to pop. Stir into the yoghurt mixture. Serve with a curry meal.

BAIGAN PACHCHADI

Spiced eggplant with yoghurt

SERVES: 4–6

1 tablespoon oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 onion, finely chopped

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

1 eggplant (aubergine), peeled and diced

1 small ripe tomato, diced

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

250 g (1 cup) plain yoghurt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Heat the oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook until they start to pop. Add the onion and chilli and stir-fry until the onion is soft.

Add the eggplant to the pan and stir-fry for 3 minutes, then add the tomato, salt, garam masala and chilli powder, if using, and stir to combine. Add 60 ml (¼ cup) water, cover, and simmer until the eggplant and tomato can be mashed to a purée. Cool, stir in the yoghurt and half of the coriander. Serve hot, garnished with the remaining coriander.

PALAK RAITA

Spinach with yoghurt and spices

SERVES: 4–6

500 g spinach leaves

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

a pinch of chilli powder or cayenne pepper (optional)

250 g (1 cup) plain yoghurt

Wash the spinach leaves and remove any tough stems. Tear the leaves into pieces and place into a large saucepan with the moisture on the leaves or add 1 tablespoon water. Cover and steam over low heat until the spinach has wilted. Drain and chop finely.

Heat the ghee in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook until they start to pop. Add the cumin seeds, ground cumin and fenugreek seeds and stir-fry with a wooden spoon until the fenugreek seeds are golden brown — be careful they do not burn. Remove from the heat, stir in the salt and chilli powder, if using, and allow to cool. Mix in the yoghurt, then stir this mixture into the spinach. Serve cold or at room temperature as an accompaniment to a meal.

PIAZ SAMBAL

Onion sambal

SERVES: 4–6

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 red onions, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

½ teaspoon salt

Sprinkle the lemon juice over the onion in a bowl and stir thorugh the chilli powder and salt until well combined. Serve as an accompaniment to a meal of rice and curries, or with lamb kebabs and parathas.

KHIRA RAITA

Cucumber with yoghurt

SERVES: 6

2 long (telegraph) cucumbers

2 teaspoons salt

1 small garlic clove, crushed

¼ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

250 g (1 cup) plain yoghurt

lemon juice, to taste

Peel and thinly slice the cucumbers. Place in a bowl, sprinkle over the salt and refrigerate for about 1 hour. Pour off any liquid, pressing out as much as possible.

Mix the garlic and ginger into the yoghurt, then stir in the cucumber and combine well. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice, as desired. Serve chilled.

Variation: For a richer version of cucumber raita, substitute 250 g (1 cup) sour cream for the yoghurt, or 125 g (½ cup) double (thick/heavy) cream mixed with the same amount of plain yoghurt.

PIAZ KA DHANIA PATTAR SALAT

Onion and coriander leaf salad

SERVES: 4–6

2 onions, thinly sliced

salt, to taste

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon (or more) chopped fresh coriander leaves

Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

TAMATAR SALAT

Tomato salad with mint and spring onions

SERVES: 4–6

4 firm red tomatoes

6 spring onions

10 g (½ cup) fresh mint leaves

60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

2 teaspoons sugar

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

Peel the tomatoes and cut into thin wedges. Thinly slice the spring onions and chop the mint leaves. Mix the lemon juice, salt, sugar and chilli powder, if using, together. Stir until the sugar dissolves, then pour over the combined ingredients and mix lightly but thoroughly. Cover and chill until serving time.

KACHUMBAR

Parsi-style onion salad

SERVES: 4–6

This relish can be hot or not-so-hot. If you want the milder version, the chillies should be seeded (see handling of chillies,). If seeded chillies are still likely to be too hot for your taste, substitute about 80 g (½ cup) thinly sliced red or green capsicum (pepper).

2 onions, thinly sliced

salt, for sprinkling

2 tablespoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons grated palm sugar

2 firm ripe tomatoes, diced

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 fresh red or green chillies, sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Sprinkle the onion generously with the salt and set aside for 1 hour. Press out as much liquid as possible and rinse in cold water. Drain well.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibres. Put the palm sugar in the tamarind liquid and stir to dissolve.

Mix together the onion, sweetened tamarind liquid, tomato, ginger, chilli and coriander. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. Serve chilled.

AM KA ACHAR

Green mango pickle

My husband, Reuben, was positively inspired when it came to making pickles. All the pickle recipes that follow come from his recipe file — which probably would not exist had I not given it to him inscribed. ‘To the best cook in the world from his assistant and typist’, a cunning ploy to make him record his recipes. But half the time I would follow him around the kitchen, noting his every move and writing busily between complying with his demands for spices, vinegar, salt and just about everything else he needed. Oh well, genius must be pandered to, I suppose. The mangoes for this pickle should be so unripe that it is possible to cut through the stone and kernel without too much effort.

12 green mangoes

50 red or green chillies

3 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds

625 ml (2½ cups) malt vinegar

10 large garlic cloves

100 g (½ cup) chopped fresh ginger

50 g (½ cup) ground cumin

50 g (½ cup) ground coriander

1.25 litres (5 cups) mustard oil, plus extra for bottling

2 tablespoons black mustard seeds

2 tablespoons curry leaves

1½ tablespoons fennel seeds

1½ tablespoons nigella seeds

1 tablespoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon chilli powder, or to taste

2½ tablespoons salt, or to taste

Wash the mangoes well and cut each through the stone into eight sections. Split the chillies in half lengthways almost up to the stem end. Sprinkle the mango and chillies with salt and dry for 3 days in the sun.

Soak the fenugreek seeds in a bowl overnight in just enough of the malt vinegar to cover.

Put the soaked fenugreek seeds, garlic, ginger, cumin and coriander into a food processor with enough vinegar to facilitate blending and process to make a smooth purée.

Heat the mustard oil in a large stainless steel or enamel saucepan until hot, then add the mustard seeds, curry leaves, fennel seeds, nigella seeds, turmeric and chilli powder and mix well. Return to medium heat and stir constantly with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes. Add the salted mango, chillies and remaining vinegar. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the oil rises to the surface and the spices become aromatic. Add the salt to taste, remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Pour the pickle into sterilised airtight jars and top each jar with a little extra oil. Always use a dry spoon when taking pickle from the jar and it should keep for years.

Note: Strips of salted, dried mango are available in some Asian grocery stores. Substitute 500 g salted dried mango for the fresh mangoes in this recipe and omit the salting and drying process.

NIMBOO KA ACHAR

Lime or lemon oil pickle

Proceed as for mango oil pickle (opposite), but use 12–15 lemons (instead of the mangoes) that have been quartered, salted and dried in the sun for 3 days.

ANANAS ACHAR

Pineapple oil pickle

This pickle is based on the spice combination for mango pickle (opposite). Instead of using mangoes, use 2 large pineapples that are ripe, but not in any way overripe. Remove the skin of each pineapple and remove the ‘eyes’, then cut into wedges lengthways and remove the hard core. Chop the flesh and squeeze out as much juice as possible. Proceed with the recipe, adding 110 g (½ cup) sugar at the simmering stage if a slightly sweeter pickle is desired. Continue to cook until the oil separates and rises to the surface. Cool, bottle and seal.

JHINGA ACHAR

Dried prawn pickle

This is a particularly delicious and popular Indian pickle which keeps well, Follow the recipe for mango pickle (opposite), substituting 1 kg dried shrimps or dried small prawns for the mangoes. If using prawns, soak them in a mild vinegar for 2 hours, then drain the vinegar and proceed to cook the recipe following the directions opposite. If possible, use birdseye chillies, which are very hot. It is not necessary to split or salt them. Increase the cooking time to 45 minutes.

TAMATAR KASAUNDI

Tomato oil pickle

If you grow your own tomatoes, this is an excellent way to make use of a bountiful harvest.

1½ tablespoons black mustard seeds

375 ml (1½ cups) malt vinegar

175 g (¾ cup) chopped fresh ginger

20 garlic cloves, chopped

310 ml (1¼ cups) oil

1½ tablespoons ground turmeric

80 g ground cumin

1–2 tablespoons chilli powder, or to taste

2 kg firm ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

20 fresh green chillies, halved lengthways and seeded

220 g (1 cup) sugar

1 tablespoon salt

Soak the mustard seeds overnight in the vinegar.

Transfer to a food processor and process to a paste. Add the ginger and garlic and process to make a smooth purée.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the turmeric, cumin and chilli powder and cook for 3–4 minutes, stirring well. Add the tomato, chilli, vinegar purée, sugar and salt. Simmer until the tomato is reduced to a pulp and the oil starts to rise to the surface. Taste and add more salt if required. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Bottle and seal when cold.

Pour the kasaundi into sterilised airtight jars and top each jar with a little extra oil. Leave to mature for 1 week before using. Once opened, the kasaundi can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

IMLI CHATNI

Tamarind chutney

MAKES: 1 CUP

3 tablespoons dried tamarind pulp

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons soft brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground fennel

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

lemon juice, to taste

a pinch of chilli powder (optional)

Soak the tamarind pulp in 250 ml (1 cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibres.

Add the remaining ingredients to the tamarind liquid and stir to mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt, lemon juice or chilli powder, if needed. Store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Serve with pani puri.

PODINA CHATNI

Mint chutney

MAKES: 2 CUPS

15 g (1 cup) firmly packed fresh mint leaves

6 spring onions, chopped

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

1 garlic clove (optional)

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon garam masala

80 ml (⅓ cup) lemon juice

Put all of the ingredients in a food processor and process to make a smooth paste. Alternatively, finely chop the mint, spring onions and chillies and pound using a mortar and pestle until ground to a paste.

Mix in the remaining ingredients and 2 tablespoons water. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

DHANIA CHATNI

Fresh coriander chutney

MAKES: 2 CUPS

15 g (1 cup) firmly packed fresh coriander leaves

6 spring onions, chopped

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

1 garlic clove (optional)

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon garam masala

80 ml (⅓ cup) lemon juice

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger (optional)

Put all of the ingredients in a food processor and process to make a smooth paste. Alternatively, finely chop the coriander, spring onions and chillies and pound using a mortar and pestle.

Mix in the remaining ingredients and 2 tablespoons water. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

NARIYAL CHATNI

Green coconut chutney

SERVES: 6

Traditionally, this chutney is served as an accompaniment to thosai, but it is equally acceptable as an accompaniment to any other kind of Indian meal.

1 lemon

1–2 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

10 g (½ cup) fresh mint or coriander leaves, or a combination of both

2 spring onions, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon salt

90 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut

1 teaspoon ghee or oil

2 teaspoons black mustard seeds

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

Peel the lemon so that no white pith remains. Cut the flesh into pieces and remove the seeds. Put the lemon into a food processor or blender with the chilli, mint or coriander leaves, spring onion and salt and process to make a purée. Add the coconut and continue processing to make a smooth paste, scraping down the sides as you go and adding a little more liquid if necessary.

Heat the ghee in a small frying pan over low heat. Add the mustard seeds and cumin seeds and cook until they start to pop. Add to the coconut mixture and stir well to combine. Store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

AM CHATNI

Sweet mango chutney

SERVES: 6

This is not one of the fresh chutneys, which are the genuine chutneys of India. It is more like a thick jam which, though not originally Indian, has come to be extremely popular and goes very well with Indian food.

8–10 large unripe mangoes, peeled, stones removed and chopped

3 teaspoons salt

8 large dried red chillies, stems removed

750 ml (3 cups) malt vinegar

5 garlic cloves

100 g (½ cup) chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon garam masala

500 g (2¼ cups) sugar

175 g (1 cup) sultanas

Put the mango in a large bowl and sprinkle with the salt. Soak the dried chillies in a little of the vinegar for 10 minutes.

Put the chillies and vinegar into a food processor with the garlic and ginger and process to combine — it does not matter if pieces of chilli remain. Alternatively, you can pound the soaked chillies using a mortar and pestle and finely grate the garlic and ginger, then stir well to combine.

Put the remaining vinegar into a large stainless steel saucepan with the chilli paste, garam masala and sugar and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the mango and sultanas and continue to simmer until thick and syrupy. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Pour into sterilised airtight jars. The sweet mango chutney can be stored without refrigeration for many months.

Note: 1.5 kg green apples, apricots or other suitable fruit may be used in place of mangoes.

RABRI

Condensed milk dessert

SERVES: 4

This condensed milk doesn’t come from a tin — it is made by boiling down pure fresh milk until most of the water content has evaporated. It may sound like a lot of trouble, but the end result is so vastly different from any short-cut method that it is worth trying at least once.

1.5 litres (6 cups) milk

75 g (⅓ cup) caster (superfine) sugar

2 drops kewra essence (glossary) or 2 tablespoons rosewater

1 tablespoon slivered blanched almonds

1 tablespoon slivered blanched pistachios

Put the milk into a heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly. Keep it cooking steadily and continue stirring until it is reduced to about 500 ml (2 cups) and is thick. Reduce the heat, add the sugar and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat and stir well, scraping in particles of dried milk from the side of the pan and mixing them in. Allow to cool slightly, then add the flavouring when it is lukewarm. Pour into a serving bowl and sprinkle over the nuts. Refrigerate before serving.

Note: Use raw unsalted pistachios and boil them for 1 minute to bring out their green colour and make it easy to slip off their skins.

KHEER

Rice pudding

SERVES: 4–6

110 g (½ cup) short-grain rice

2 litres (8 cups) milk

4 cardamom pods

275 g (1¼ cups) sugar

2 tablespoons slivered blanched almonds (optional)

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 tablespoon rosewater

freshly grated nutmeg, to serve

Wash the rice and boil for 5 minutes in water. Drain well.

Put the milk and cardamom pods into a large saucepan over medium–high heat and bring to the boil. Add the rice, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour, or until the rice is very soft and the milk quite thick. As the milk thickens it will be necessary to stir frequently with a wooden spoon, scraping the milk from the base of the pan.

Add the sugar and almonds, if using, to the pan and continue cooking until the consistency is like that of porridge. Remove from the heat; discard the cardamom pods. If you think the flavour needs intensifying, add some ground cardamom and nutmeg. Allow to cool a little, then stir in the rosewater.

Spoon the rice pudding into a large bowl or in individual portions, garnished with a little nutmeg. Serve warm or chilled.

SHRIKHAND

Saffron yoghurt dessert

SERVES: 4–6

An exotic dessert, easy to prepare and a perfect conclusion to a spicy Indian meal. Also known in Northern India, where the dish originated, as Honeymoon Sweet.

500 g (2 cups) Greek-style yoghurt

110 g (½ cup) caster sugar, or to taste

1 tablespoon rosewater

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon saffron strands

1 tablespoon boiling water

2 tablespoons pistachio kernels

In a bowl, whisk together the yoghurt, sugar, rosewater and cardamom until well combined and the sugar has dissolved.

In a small dry frying pan, lightly toast the saffron strands to remove any moisture, then remove from the pan and crush in a cup with the back of a teaspoon to make a fine powder. Add the boiling water and stir to combine, then add to the yoghurt mixture, stirring well. If using ground saffron, omit the toasting and crushing step.

Blanch the pistachio kernels in a saucepan of boiling water for 30 seconds then drain well. Allow to cool slightly, rub off the skins and chop finely. Sprinkle over the top of the shrikhand and serve.

SOOJEE HALWA

Semolina pudding

SERVES: 6

165 g (¾ cup) sugar

60 ml (¼ cup) milk

¼ teaspoon powdered Spanish saffron

125 g ghee

150 g (¾ cup) fine semolina

2 tablespoons sultanas

2 tablespoons slivered almonds, plus extra to garnish

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

Lightly butter a 1 litre (4 cup) capacity serving dish.

Put the sugar, milk, saffron and 310 ml (1¼ cups) water into a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Melt the ghee in a separate saucepan over low heat. Add the semolina and cook until the mixture turns golden, stirring constantly. Add the sugar syrup, sultanas, almonds and cardamom and cook over medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens and leaves the side of the pan. Remove from the heat.

Pour the pudding mixture into the prepared dish and allow to cool.

When the pudding is cold, cut into diamond shapes and decorate with the extra almonds. This halwa can be served warm or cold, with or without cream. A popular way of serving it in India is with puris (deep-fried Indian bread) and, surprising though it may seem to Westerners, at the beginning of a meal instead of at the end.

GAJJAR KHEER

Carrot pudding

SERVES: 4

1 litre (4 cups) milk

¼ teaspoon saffron strands

250 g carrots, peeled and grated

110 g (½ cup) sugar

2 tablespoons ground almonds (optional)

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

Put the milk into a large heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove 2 tablespoons of the boiling milk and soak the saffron strands in it.

Add the carrot to the boiling milk, reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the carrots are soft and the mixture has thickened. Add the sugar, almonds, if using, the cardamom and the saffron mixture and stir until the sugar dissolves, then continue to simmer, stirring occasionally until the mixture is the consistency of a creamy rice pudding.

Spoon into serving bowls and serve warm or cold.

PERHAS

Milk sweetmeat

MAKES: 10–12 PIECES

1.25 litres (5 cups) milk

1 teaspoon ghee

110 g (½ cup) caster sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom or freshly grated nutmeg

slivered almonds or pistachios (optional)

Put the milk into a large heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly, until the milk thickens and resembles the consistency of uncooked pastry. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, then crumble into small pieces.

Heat the ghee in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the crumbled milk mixture and stir over low heat until heated through. Add the sugar and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is hot. Remove from the heat and add the cardamom, beating with a whisk until the mixture is smooth.

Allow to cool slightly, then roll into small balls, place in a serving dish and flatten slightly into a disc shape. The discs will not get hard but will have a soft fudge-like texture. Decorate each disc with a few slices of almond or pistachio, if desired.

MYSORE PAK

Besan sweetmeat

MAKES: 12–15 PIECES

140 g (⅔ cup) sugar

60 g (½ cup) besan (chickpea flour), sifted

185 g ghee

½ teaspoon natural almond extract

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

Put the sugar and 60 ml (¼ cup) water into a saucepan over low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and set aside.

Heat two-thirds of the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the besan gradually, and cook, stirring often, for about 5 minutes. Add the sugar syrup, and continue cooking for a further 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the remaining ghee gradually (this can be melted and poured in or, if softened to room temperature, added by spoonfuls), and cook for 7–10 minutes, stirring constantly and making sure it doesn’t brown.

Pour into a lightly greased serving dish and cut into about 12 or 15 diamond shapes before it hardens.

BARFIBADAM

Almond cream sweetmeat

MAKES: ABOUT 16 PIECES

1 litre (4 cups) milk

165 g (¾ cup) sugar

100 g (1 cup) ground almonds

a pinch of ground cardamom

2 tablespoons blanched pistachios, halved

edible silver leaf (optional)

Put the milk in a heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly, until the milk has reduced and is very thick. Add the sugar, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the ground almonds and continue to cook and stir until the mixture comes away from the side of the pan.

Remove from the heat, sprinkle over the cardamom and mix well. Pour into a lightly buttered serving dish, smooth the top with the back of a buttered spoon and cool slightly. Use a knife to score about 16 diamond shapes in the sweetmeat and decorate with the pistachios and silver leaf, if desired.

Before it is quite firm, cut with a sharp knife along the markings, then leave to get cold before separating into pieces.

BARFIPISTA

Pistachio cream sweetmeat

MAKES: ABOUT 16 PIECES

To make a pistachio cream sweetmeat, follow the method for barfibadam (above), substitute 100 g (¾ cup) pistachio kernels for the ground almonds. Blanch the pistachios in boiling water for 2 minutes, then remove the skins and pound to a paste using a mortar and pestle.

KELA HALWA

Banana sweetmeat

MAKES: ABOUT 24 PIECES

2½ tablespoons ghee

5 large ripe bananas, peeled and chopped

165 g (¾ cup) sugar

2 tablespoons rosewater

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan. Add the banana and cook for 5 minutes, or until soft, stirring frequently so they do not brown. Remove from the heat and mash the banana in the pan.

Add 60 ml (¼ cup) water to the banana and continue to cook over low heat for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the sugar and another 250 ml (1 cup) water and stir constantly over medium heat until the sugar melts, then continue cooking and stirring for 15–20 minutes, or until the mixture is quite thick.

Remove from the heat and sprinkle in the rosewater and cardamom, stirring well to combine. Pour into a lightly buttered serving dish. If any ghee separates from the mixture, pour it off. When the halwa is cool, cut into small squares. This halwa can also be served warm.

Note: Because this makes only a small quantity, I use an oblong dish 20 x 8 cm to get the correct thickness of halwa.

JALEBI

Deep-fried batter sweetmeat

MAKES: ABOUT 25

Jalebis are coils of crisply fried batter about the size of a saucer with a rose-scented syrup inside the coil. How the syrup gets inside is a mystery unless you do some research on the subject. In the bazaars and sweet shops, pyramids of brilliant orange jalebis up to a metre high testify to the popularity of this sweet, and are quickly demolished.

Batter

300 g (2 cups) plain flour, sifted

80 g (½ cup) rice flour, sifted

7 g fresh compressed yeast or scant

½ teaspoon dried yeast

¼ teaspoon saffron strands

2 tablespoons boiling water

1 tablespoon plain yoghurt

oil, for deep-frying

Syrup

660 g (3 cups) sugar

a pinch of cream of tartar

½ teaspoon rosewater

1½ teaspoons liquid orange food colouring

Put the flour and rice flour into a large bowl. Put the yeast and 125 ml (½ cup) lukewarm water into a small bowl and leave for a few minutes to soften, then stir to dissolve. Leave in a warm place for 10 minutes, or until the mixture starts to froth. This is to test whether the yeast is live; if it does not froth start again with a fresh batch of yeast.

Gently heat the saffron strands in a frying pan over low heat for 1–2 minutes, shaking the pan frequently and taking care they don’t burn. Remove to a plate to cool and crisp, then crush to a powder in a cup, adding the boiling water to dissolve. Pour the dissolved yeast and saffron water into a measuring jug. Add enough water to make up 625 ml (2½ cups).

Stirring with a wooden spoon, add the measured liquid to the flour and beat well until the batter is very smooth. Add the yoghurt and beat again. Leave to rest for 1 hour, or until the batter starts to become frothy. You will need to beat vigorously again before starting to cook.

To make the syrup, put the sugar, cream of tartar and 750 ml (3 cups) water into a saucepan over low heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and boil for 8 minutes, or until the syrup is just thick enough to spin a thread. Remove from the heat, allow to cool until lukewarm, then flavour with rosewater and add the orange food colouring to brighten.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, use a funnel to pour in the batter, making circles or figures of eight, and deep-fry, turning once, until crisp and golden on both sides. Lift out using a slotted spoon, and drain on paper towel, then lower the hot jalebis into the syrup and soak it for a minute or two. Lift out of the syrup (using another slotted spoon) and put on a plate to drain. Repeat until all of the mixture is used.

Transfer the jalebis to a clean plate and serve as soon as possible after making (though they should not be served hot) because their crispness diminishes after some time.

GAJJAR HALWA

Carrot sweetmeat

MAKES: ABOUT 20 PIECES

60 g ghee

500 g carrots, peeled and grated

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

275 g (1¼ cups) sugar

250 g (1 cup) pouring cream

4 tablespoons dried milk powder or khoa

2 tablespoons slivered blanched almonds or pistachios

edible silver leaf, to garnish (optional)

Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the carrot and cardamom and cook, stirring to coat in the ghee, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the carrots are soft and almost all the liquid has been absorbed.

Meanwhile, put the sugar and 125 ml (½ cup) hot water in a saucepan over low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved.

Add the sugar syrup to the carrot mixture, then add the cream and milk powder, continue cooking and stir vigorously until the mixture is dry and comes away from the side of the pan.

Remove from the heat and pour into a lightly buttered serving dish; allow to cool. Decorate the top with the slivered almonds and silver leaf, if using. Cut into diamond shapes or squares to serve.

NAN KHATAI

Crisp semolina shortbread

MAKES: ABOUT 24

These little shortbread biscuits made with ghee have a delightful melting texture.

125 g ghee

110 g (½ cup) sugar

180 g (1 cup) fine semolina, sifted

35 g (¼ cup) plain flour, sifted

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

Preheat the oven to 150°C (Gas 2). Lightly grease two baking trays.

Cream the ghee and sugar together until light and pale. Add the semolina, flour and cardamom and mix well. Allow the mixture to stand for 30 minutes.

Take a scant tablespoon of the mixture at a time and roll into a ball. Place onto the prepared trays and flatten slightly. Repeat to make about 24 biscuits, leaving a little space between each so they can spread. Bake for 30 minutes, or until pale golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the trays for 10 minutes, before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

SHAHI TUKRI

Toast of the shah

SERVES: 6

80–120 g ghee

6 thick slices of white bread, crusts removed

¼ teaspoon saffron strands

375 ml (1½ cups) milk

250 ml (1 cup) pouring cream

220 g (1 cup) sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 tablespoon rosewater

1 tablespoon slivered blanched almonds

1 tablespoon slivered blanched pistachios

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat and fry the bread until golden on both sides — it may be necessary to add more ghee. Remove to a plate.

Gently heat the saffron strands in a dry frying pan over low heat for a minute or two, shaking the pan frequently and taking care they don’t burn. Remove to a plate to cool and crisp, then crush to a powder in a cup. Heat 1 tablespoon of the milk and stir to dissolve.

Put the milk and cream in the pan in which the bread was fried. Bring to the boil, then add the sugar and saffron mixture and boil hard, stirring constantly, for 10 minutes.

Add the fried bread slices in one layer and simmer over low heat until the milk has been absorbed, carefully turning the slices of bread over once during cooking.

Transfer the bread to a heated serving dish, sprinkle with the cardamom and rosewater and decorate with the slivered nuts. Serve hot.

SEVIYAN

Sweet vermicelli

SERVES: 4–6

This traditional Muslim dish is served during the Id Festival and would, on occasions like this, be garnished with edible silver leaf and pistachios. Look in Indian grocery stores for the golden roasted wheat vermicelli with its extremely fine, hairlike strands.

125 g fine roasted vermicelli

1½ tablespoons ghee

¼ teaspoon saffron strands

110 g (½ cup) sugar

2 tablespoons sultanas (optional)

2 tablespoons slivered almonds

⅛ teaspoon ground cardamom

300 ml pouring cream

Break the vermicelli into small pieces less than 2.5 cm in length. They need not be uniform, but longer pieces make stirring difficult.

Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the vermicelli and cook until golden brown, stirring so it colours evenly. Add 310 ml (1¼ cups) hot water and the saffron and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the vermicelli is cooked. Add the sugar and sultanas and continue simmering until all of the liquid is absorbed. Stir in the almonds and cardamom and serve warm with the cream.

BOONDI

SERVES: 20

This popular sweet consists of hundreds of tiny balls of batter fried until crisp, then soaked in a saffron-flavoured syrup scented with cardamom and enriched with pistachios. The syrup dries and crystallises around the fragments of batter so it may be eaten like sugar-coated peanuts, but with an infinitely more exotic flavour. It is for between-meal nibbling or a tea-time treat, and is not a dessert.

120 g (1 cup) besan (chickpea flour) or combined half plain flour and half rice flour, sifted

80 ml (⅓ cup) milk

½ teaspoon saffron strands

1 tablespoon boiling water

330 g (1½ cups) sugar

1¼ teaspoons ground cardamom

oil, for deep-frying

3 tablespoons ghee

1 tablespoon blanched pistachios, thinly sliced

To make the batter, put the besan into a bowl. Put the milk and 60 ml (¼ cup) water in a saucepan and heat until just lukewarm.

Gently heat the saffron strands in a dry frying pan over low heat for a minute or two, shaking the pan frequently and taking care they don’t burn. Remove to a plate to cool and crisp, then crush to a powder in a cup, adding the boiling water and stirring to dissolve.

Add half of the saffron water to the milk and water in the pan and stir well, then add to the flour and beat well with a wooden spoon to form a thick smooth batter. Allow to stand for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the sugar and 375 ml (1½ cups) water into a wide saucepan and bring to the boil. Boil steadily until of one-thread consistency (104°C on a sugar thermometer). This should take about 8 minutes hard boiling. Remove from the heat, add the remaining saffron water and the ground cardamom and stir to combine. Keep warm until ready to serve.

Heat the oil and ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Take a slotted spoon or ladle with small round perforations and place it over the frying pan, then pour a spoonful of the batter into it and tap or shake so that the batter falls in small drops into the hot oil. Deep-fry for a few minutes until golden, then drain on another frying spoon and transfer them to the syrup. Continue frying the batter in batches and adding the boondi to the syrup. When all the batter has been fried, drained and added to the syrup, stir in the pistachios and mix together.

Allow to cool completely, stirring occasionally to separate the balls of batter. Another way of serving these is to make laddu boondi. In this case the mixture is not allowed to get quite cold, but is pressed to form large balls while still warm and sticky, then left to dry and harden before serving.

RAS GULA

Cream cheese balls in syrup

SERVES: 6

One of the most popular Indian sweetmeats. ras gula means, literally, balls of juice. Small balls of homemade cream cheese are simmered in sugar syrup infused with intriguing flavours.

1.5 litres (6 cups) milk

3–4 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon fine semolina

10–12 sugar cubes

330 g (1½ cups) sugar

10–12 shelled pistachios

10–12 cardamom seeds

8 cardamom pods, bruised

2 tablespoons rosewater

Put the milk into a large saucepan and bring almost to boiling point. As the milk starts to rise in the pan, remove from the heat, and stir in the lemon juice. Allow to stand for 5 minutes, or until solid lumps form. If the milk does not curdle (lemons vary in acid content) re-heat the milk and add more lemon juice. Pour into a large colander lined with a large square of muslin (cheesecloth), weighted with a plate to press out as much liquid as possible. Drain for 30 minutes, or until the whey has dripped out.

Turn the curds out onto a clean work surface and knead for 5 minutes, using the heel of your hand. Add the semolina and knead again until the cream cheese is smooth. When the palm of your hand becomes greasy the cheese is ready for moulding. Shape into 10–12 balls with a 5 cm diameter, moulding each one around a cube of sugar, a pistachio and a single cardamom seed.

Put the sugar and 1 litre (4 cups) water in a large saucepan over low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and boil for 5 minutes. Put the ras gulas and bruised cardamom pods into the syrup in the saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the balls swell and become spongy. Remove from the heat and allow to cool until lukewarm, then add the rosewater. Serve one or two ras gulas to each person, warm or at room temperature.

RAS MALAI

Fresh cream cheese balls in cream

SERVES: 6

Ras malai is regarded as the richest and most delicious of Indian desserts. It is actually a combination of two other sweet dishes, ras gula and rabri.

1 quantity ras gula (opposite)

2 litres (8 cups) milk

110 g (½ cup) caster sugar

a few drops kewra essence (glossary) or 1 tablespoon rosewater

½ teaspoon natural almond extract

2 tablespoons pistachios

To make ras malai, proceed with ras gula recipe opposite, but instead of making 10 walnut-size balls, divide the mixture into 18 even-sized balls and mould them without the sugar inside.

Simmer in the syrup as before, keeping the syrup from becoming too thick. When they are cooked and spongy, drain them from the syrup and immerse them in the milk. Leave to become quite cool. Remove the balls of cream cheese from the milk and set aside.

Now use this milk to make rabri, but instead of reducing it to a third of its original volume, reduce it to only half so that it is thinner and not so concentrated. Remove from the heat. Add the caster sugar, kewra essence and almond extract. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Return the cream cheese balls to this mixture, cover and refrigerate.

Sprinkle over the pistachios and serve chilled.

KOULFI

Frozen dessert

SERVES: 8

There is no ice cream quite like koulfi, with its cold smoothness punctuated by little lumps of cream and pieces of pistachio and almond. If one memory persists, it is of the itinerant vendor with the tin cones packed in crushed ice, shaking out a serving of the delicious rich, very cold ice cream, watching it slide from the mould onto the plate I held. It is not just a childhood memory — koulfiis colder than commercial ice cream, having no gelatine content and not being beaten and aerated, it freezes quite solid and must be eaten before it melts. The pieces of thick cream are a delight to come upon, and even if it is not made in the traditional tin cones, koulfiout of a freezer tray is well worth experiencing.

2 litres (8 cups) milk

2 tablespoons arrowroot or cornflour

165 g (¾ cup) sugar

250 ml (1 cup) double (thick) cream

a few drops of kewra essence or rosewater, to flavour

2 tablespoons blanched almonds, finely chopped

2 tablespoons blanched pistachios, finely chopped

In a bowl, mix a little of the milk with the arrowroot to make a smooth paste.

Put 1.5 litres (6 cups) of the milk into a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring with a wooden spoon for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the arrowroot paste until well combined. Place over low heat and stir constantly while returning to the boil. When it boils and thickens, add the sugar and stir until it has completely dissolved. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, stirring occasionally to prevent a skin forming on top.

Meanwhile, put the remaining milk into a large heavy-based frying pan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly, until the milk resembles a thick batter. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Once cool, stir this into the milk mixture. Add the cream. (The best kind of cream to use is that skimmed from the top of the milk during boiling. In some Middle Eastern shops this is sold as ‘ashtar’.)

Flavour the custard with the kewra essence, a drop or two at a time, taking care not to add too much. Stir in the almonds and pistachios, then pour into freezer trays and freeze until firm, stirring once or twice during the freezing process to keep the nuts and cream spread evenly through the mixture.

Just before serving, cut into small 6 cm squares and top with a spoonful each of rose syrup and agar-agar jelly cut into small dice.

GULAB JAMUN

Rose-flavoured sweetmeats in syrup

MAKES: ABOUT 20

140 g (1¼ cups) full-cream milk powder

60 g self-raising flour

¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 tablespoon soft butter or ghee

ghee or oil, for deep-frying

Syrup

440 g (2 cups) sugar

5 cardamom pods, bruised

2 tablespoons rosewater

Sift the milk powder, flour, bicarbonate of soda and cardamom into a large bowl. Rub in the butter, then add just enough water to make a firm but pliable dough which can be moulded into balls the size of large marbles, or into small sausage shapes.

To make the syrup, put the sugar, 1 litre (4 cups) water and the cardamom pods in a saucepan over low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the balls until they turn light golden. Drain on paper towel.

Put the fried gulab jamun into the syrup and soak until they have almost doubled in size, and are soft and spongy. Add the rosewater when they have cooled slightly. Allow to cool completely and serve at room temperature or refrigerate briefly and serve slightly chilled.

FIRNI

Rice blancmange

SERVES: 4

750 ml (3 cups) milk

1 tablespoon rice flour

1 tablespoon sugar

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 tablespoon rosewater

2 tablespoons blanched pistachios or almonds, chopped

In a bowl mix some of the milk with the rice flour to make a smooth paste.

Put the remaining milk and the sugar in a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and stir in the rice flour paste, then return the pan to the heat and stir constantly until the mixture boils and thickens. Boil, stirring, for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Sprinkle over the cardamom, rosewater and half of the pistachios and stir well to combine.

Remove from the heat and pour the mixture into individual serving dishes. Decorate with the remaining pistachios. Serve warm or chilled.

ZEERA PANI

Cumin and tamarind water

MAKES: 2 CUPS

Cumin is reputed to be a digestive, and this refreshing sour drink is served as an appetiser, much as tomato juice is in other countries. It is also served with festive, and therefore very rich, meals. Serve it chilled with crushed ice, a sprig of mint and a slice of lemon to garnish.

125 g (½ cup) tamarind pulp

3 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons ground cumin

a pinch of chilli powder (optional)

½ teaspoon garam masala

3 teaspoons sugar, or to taste

salt, to taste

iced water and crushed ice, to serve

mint sprigs, to serve

lemon slices, to garnish

Soak the tamarind pulp in 500 ml (2 cups) hot water and leave for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibres.

Add all of the remaining ingredients, stir well, then strain again through a very fine sieve. Refrigerate until cold, then dilute with iced water at serving time. Serve in glasses with the crushed ice, mint and lemon slices.

Note: If you cannot get the dried tamarind pulp, use tamarind purée but increase the quantity according to taste. It should be quite tangy.

SHARBAT GULAB

Rose-flavoured cold drink

MAKES: 3 CUPS SYRUP

Rose syrup

660 g (3 cups) sugar

60 ml (¼ cup) rosewater

1 teaspoon liquid red food colouring

1 teaspoon tulsi seeds (glossary)

iced water and crushed ice, to serve

To make the rose syrup, put the sugar and 500 ml (2 cups) water into a saucepan and cook over gentle heat until the sugar has dissolved. Cool. Add the rosewater and red food colouring — it should have a strong colour, as it will be mixed with a large proportion of water.

Soak the tulsi seeds in a cup of cold water. After a few minutes they will develop a jelly-like coating. (The seeds can be kept soaking in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. They are supposed to have a very cooling effect, and are used in almost every type of sharbat drink.)

At serving time put 2 tablespoons of syrup in each glass and fill up with iced water and crushed ice. The syrup can be increased or decreased according to taste. Add a spoonful of soaked tulsi seeds.

FALOODA

There are many versions of falooda — this one is a favourite. It is a sweet drink ideal for serving with curry meals. It gets its name from the particles of cornflour vermicelli that float in it, but these, which are difficult to make without specialist equipment, are often replaced with tiny pieces of jelly or cooked tapioca. Another easy substitute is cellophane noodles soaked and boiled until soft and translucent, then cut into short lengths. Falooda can be served as a dessert or as a refreshing drink. In this version a rose-flavoured syrup is mixed with ice-cold milk, crushed ice and jewel-like squares of sparkling red and green agar-agar jelly in tall glasses. Agar-agar used to be available in powder form by the gram or ounce from chemists, but you will be surer to find it in packets in Asian grocery stores. It is popular in Asia for making jellies and sweetmeats because it sets without refrigeration.

1 quantity rose syrup

ice-cold milk, about 250 ml (1 cup) per serving

crushed iced, to serve

soaked tulsi seeds (optional)

Agar-agar jelly

1 tablespoon agar-agar powder or 1 cup agar-agar strands soaked for 2 hours in cold water, then drained

125 g sugar

2 tablespoons rosewater, or to taste

1 teaspoon liquid red food colouring

1 teaspoon liquid green food colouring

To make the jelly, put 750 ml (3 cups) water into a saucepan and sprinkle over the agar-agar powder. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the agar-agar has dissolved. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve, then remove from the heat, cool slightly and add the rosewater. Divide the mixture between two large shallow dishes and colour one red and the other green. Leave to set. When quite cold and firm, cut into small dice.

Put 2 tablespoons each of red and green jelly into each tall glass with the rose syrup. Fill with milk and crushed ice. If liked, some soaked tulsi seeds can be floated on top.

LASSI

Yoghurt drink

MAKES: 3 CUPS

You can also make this refreshing drink with buttermilk. Use twice as much as yoghurt and add less water.

125 g (½ cup) plain yoghurt

375 ml (1½ cups) iced water

pepper and salt, to taste

ice cubes, to serve

Put the yoghurt into a deep jug and beat with a spoon to take any lumps out of it. Add the water, gradually at first, mixing well. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve in glasses with ice cubes.

Variation: You can make a sweet version of this lassi by stirring 1–2 tablespoons sugar into the yoghurt before adding the iced water. Afterwards, if desired, flavour with 1 teaspoon rosewater or a pinch of ground cardamom before serving.

MANGO LASSI

This mango lassi is a popular drink, especially with children. It will froth and look like a milkshake, and is generally acceptable even to those who do not like yoghurt by itself. You may prefer to use lemonade instead of soda water — in which case, omit the sugar.

95 g (½ cup) finely chopped mango

2 tablespoons plain yoghurt

2 teaspoons sugar

375 ml (1½ cups) iced soda water

Put the mango in a blender with the yoghurt, sugar and 125 ml (½ cup) of the soda water and mix well to combine. Add the remainder of the soda water and use a spoon to stir through. Serve in glasses with ice cubes.

SRI LANKA

I was born and lived most of my unmarried life in this small, beautiful tropical island, shaped like a tear-drop and situated at the southernmost tip of the Indian subcontinent so that it has been romantically called ‘the pearl in the ear of India’.

It has been known by many names at different times, for it is an ancient land and its recorded history goes back to 483 BC, when Vijaya, a prince of the lion race (Sinhalas) set foot on the island. Some of the names by which it has been called during its 2500 years of recorded history are Taprobane, Simundu, Salike, Sila-diva, Serendib, Zeilan and Ceylon.

Roloff Beny, in his delightful book, Island: Ceylon, writes, ‘In Sinhala, the language of the majority of the inhabitants, it is reverently known as Sri Lanka, or “Resplendent Island”, but I myself prefer the name given to it by the first travellers from China, which in translation is, “The Land Without Sorrow”.’

I had been away for a number of years when I revisited Sri Lanka for the purpose of writing this book. It was with a small shock that I realised all over again just how beautiful a land it is. Driving along the coast road one is surrounded by greens and blues and golden hues; languid, swaying coconut palms, the Indian Ocean incredibly blue and green and even purple in patches; sandy beaches that go on for mile after smooth, golden mile. Both sea and air are so warm that there is no chill either entering the water or leaving it. And there are no sharks because the island is surrounded by protective coral reefs, so it is a skin-diver’s paradise.

Within less than a hundred miles you can travel from the coast to the central hills where 2000 metres (6000 feet) above sea level, the air is cool and crisp and the natural vegetation includes conifers and pines; here, English and Scottish planters grew the best tea in the world and felt at home in the cool, misty climate. On the coastal plains there is a year-round temperature of 32°C (90°F) and city dwellers seek the comfort of air-conditioned buildings.

In spite of its tiny size, Sri Lanka boasts an amazing variety of food and styles of cooking. The island has a rich heritage of indigenous dishes and its regional cooking is strongly individual and varied. For example, Kandyan Sinhalese cooking, with its emphasis on hill country vegetables and fruits; coastal cooking, making the best of the seafood with which the land is blessed; Tamil cooking, closely linked to that of southern lndia, which is especially prevalent in Jaffna, in the north.

In Sri Lanka, as in any other country, the most typical food is cooked in the villages — getting precise recipes is almost impossible. They don’t cook by a book. A pinch of this, a handful of that, a good swirl of salty water; taste, consider, adjust seasoning. That’s the way Sinhalese women cook, and no two women cook exactly alike. Even using the same ingredients, the interpretation of a recipe is completely individual. Ask a cook how much of a certain ingredient she uses and she’ll say, ‘This much,’ showing you with her hand. Spoon measures would be looked upon as an affectation. You watch, make notes and try to achieve the same results by trial and error. And when you arrive at the correct formula, write it down for posterity.

In addition to regional characteristics, some of the most popular dishes reflect influences from other lands. After a hundred years or so it does not matter that this or that style of cooking was introduced by foreigners who came and stayed, either as traders or conquerors — Indians, Arabs, Malays, Moors, Portuguese, Dutch and British. The dishes they contributed have been adapted to local ingredients, but retain their original character. They are not presented as Sinhalese dishes but accepted and enjoyed as part of the richly varied cuisine. The influence of the Muslims and Malays is responsible for the use of certain flavourings such as saffron and rosewater and the spicy korma, pilau and biriani which are Sri Lankan only by adoption.

When the Portuguese ruled Sri Lanka for 150 years in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, they left behind words which have worked their way into the language and customs which are very much a part of rural and urban life. Many recipes end with an instruction to ‘temper’ the dish. This comes from the Portuguese word, temperado, which means to fry and season. The Portuguese also contributed a number of sweetmeats that remain popular. These are served at celebrations (Sri Lankans are enthusiastic about celebrating every happy occasion) and people take enormous pride in old family recipes, which they guard with jealous care.

Then came the Dutch, and though their rule ended after a mere 138 years, their descendants stayed on in this prosperous land. They too brought with them recipes laden with butter and eggs in true Dutch tradition, but in the spice-rich land of their adoption they took on new flavours of cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and mace. The traditional Christmas cake is a fine example of this, a fruit cake which stands above all others for flavour and richness.

My father’s family trace their ancestry back to the Dutch settlers. One early memory is of my paternal grandmother making preserves in an enormous brass pan that shone like gold. She was famous for her preserves, chutneys and jellies, and regularly won gold medals at the annual show. I have never seen anyone so meticulous about cooking.

Then I remember preparations for Christmas, always a time of much cooking and tasting. Eggs were bought by the hundred, not the dozen. And why not? The Christmas cake would require fifty egg yolks and a breudher (Dutch yeast cake) twenty more. When the egg vendor appeared it was the signal for the servants of the household to bring large basins of water to the verandah where grandmother sat to make her purchases. Into these the egg seller would put the eggs. Any that floated or bobbed about uncertainly were disqualified and only those that sank sedately to the bottom, signifying freshness, were considered worthy. The cooking of traditional foods was a family affair, and everyone had their part.

SERVING AND EATING A SRI LANKAN MEAL

Rice is the staple food of the people of Sri Lanka and has been adopted by all the communities (except, perhaps, the die-hard British). When enquiring whether one has had a meal, the literal translation of the question as asked in the Sinhalese language is, ‘Have you eaten rice?’ And all over the island the midday meal is rice and curry, Sinhalese-style.

For such a meal everything is put on the table at once — rice, fish and meat curries, soup, vegetables and accompaniments. It is perfectly correct to have a serving of everything on your plate at one time. Soup may be ladled over the rice or sipped from a cup between mouthfuls, but it is not the first course. The meal can be eaten with the fingers as the people of the country do, or use a spoon and fork, which is widely accepted now except on special occasions such as the Sinhalese New Year, when everybody goes traditional and eats with their fingers.

Desserts are unknown except on festive occasions, and the meal usually ends with some of the luscious fruit so plentiful on the island: mangoes of at least a dozen different varieties; papayas so sweet they seem to have been macerated in honey; bananas in even greater variety than mangoes; mangosteens and rambutan in season; avocados which are served with cream and sugar; and the huge, ungainly jak fruit, spiky green outside and the size of a large watermelon, with large, golden, fleshy seed pods of overwhelming sweetness and distinctive flavour.

Curries are not necessarily classified according to the main ingredients, but according to the type of spicing, the method of cooking, or the colour which, to the initiate, conveys a whole lot more than just whether a curry is white, red or black. White curries are based on coconut milk and are usually mild and have a lot of liquid so they double as soups. Red curries are based on few spices and a large amount of chilli powder or ground chillies that give the curry its vivid colour and red hot flavour. (In Sri Lanka it is quite commonplace to have as many as thirty large dried red chillies to spice a dish for six to eight people. Unless you are accustomed to spices on a grand scale, tread warily. Use some chilli for flavour and paprika to achieve the desired colour. Discretion is by far the better part of valour!) Black curries are the most typical curries in Sri Lanka. They get their dark colour because the coriander, cumin and fennel are roasted until a rich coffee brown. This dark-roasting brings out nuances of flavour in a subtle and wholly pleasant way, making the cooking of this little island strongly individual. If buying curry powder for use in Sri Lankan recipes, look for a label that says ‘Ceylon Curry Powder’ and if this is not obtainable, use the recipe if you wish to duplicate the true flavour. Or, if using individual spices, always toast the coriander, cumin and fennel separately in a dry frying pan until dark brown before using.

UTENSILS

Cooking in true native style is always done on stone or brick hearths over wood fires. I remember Josie, a genial, round-faced, motherly woman who was the family cook for so many years that she addressed me as ‘baby’ (as the youngest member of the family is called) even when I was married and with babies of my own. Josie presided over the ‘big kitchen’ with its huge fireplaces, blowing through a piece of hollow metal tubing to get more heat out of the fire, stirring her clay chatties (cooking pots) with coconut shell spoons, and producing some of the best meals I have ever eaten. She had no time for the ‘small kitchen’ where the mistress of the house cooked on a gas range or baked cakes in the oven. Everything Josie wanted to cook could be made to her satisfaction in the time-honoured way, using the most primitive equipment. Like every other cook in the land she awoke before dawn to make the breakfast specialities, and each day, before she started to cook, she would grind her spices. This is done on an oblong grinding stone the size of a pillow, using another stone shaped like a bolster. In Western kitchens, a powerful food processor does this job.

While a stone mortar and pestle can be used for grinding whole spices for curries, an electric spice grinder is far quicker. Having one means you can always have freshly ground spices which have a better flavour. There is something about food cooked in clay chatties, especially curries, that is rather special. It is as though the clay absorbs and then gives out again the character of the food cooked in it. So though a chatty costs a mere few cents, when a cook gets used to a certain pot she is not easily parted from it. Most cooks keep special chatties for meat, others for fish and yet others for vegetables. However, a set of heavy-based saucepans is very suitable for curry cooking, and one with a well-fitting lid for cooking rice.

In place of the coconut shell spoons used for stirring, use wooden spoons. In curry cooking, metal spoons are not recommended. And keep these special curry spoons only for curries, or they may transmit the strong flavours they absorb to other dishes. There is no special equipment you need for the recipes in this chapter, except if you wish to try the appe (hoppers) and even then you can make do with an omelette pan if you cannot find the proper curved iron pan used to make these rice pancakes. A wok is not suitable, as the metal is too thin and gets too hot.

YOUR SRI LANKAN SHELF

black mustard seeds

cardamom, pods and ground

cinnamon, sticks and ground

chilli, powder and whole dried red chillies

cloves, whole and ground

coconut milk

coriander, seeds and ground

cumin, seeds and ground

curry leaves, fresh or dried

dried prawn powder

dried shrimp

fennel, seeds and ground

fenugreek, seeds

ghee

kencur (aromatic ginger) powder (glossary)

lemongrass

Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) (glossary)

palm sugar (jaggery)

paprika

pandanus leaf (glossary)

peppercorns, whole black

Ceylon curry powder

tamarind pulp

turmeric, ground

vegetable oil or coconut oil

CEYLON CURRY POWDER

In Sri Lankan (Ceylonese) cooking, one of the main characteristics is that the spices are dark-roasted. This gives them an aroma completely different from Indian curries. So be sure to use curry powder that is labelled ‘Ceylon curry powder’. If you cannot buy it ready-made, here is a simple recipe.

165 g (1 cup) coriander seeds

60 g (½ cup) cumin seeds

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

5 cm cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon whole cloves

1 teaspoon cardamom seeds

2 tablespoons dried curry leaves

2 teaspoons chilli powder (optional)

2 tablespoons rice flour (optional)

In a dry frying pan over low heat, individually roast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, fennel seeds and fenugreek seeds, stirring constantly until each one becomes a fairly dark brown — do not let them burn.

Place the roasted spices into an electric spice grinder or use a mortar and pestle. Break the cinnamon stick into small pieces and grind with the cloves, cardamom and curry leaves until you have a fine powder. Add the chilli powder and rice flour, if using. Store in an airtight jar for up to 3 months.

ROTIS

Flatbread

SERVES: 6–8

Similar to Indian flatbreads, Sri Lankan rotis contain fresh grated coconut or, in its absence, desiccated coconut. Serve with curries and sambols. It is a popular breakfast in Sri Lanka.

300 g (2 cups) roti flour or plain flour

45 g (½ cup) desiccated coconut

1 teaspoon salt

ghee or oil, for cooking

Mix together the flour, coconut and salt in a bowl. Add just enough water to form a soft dough, about 250 ml (1 cup). Knead the dough until it forms a ball and does not stick to the side of the bowl. Rest the dough for about 30 minutes.

Shape the dough into balls, approximately the size of a golf ball. Pat each one out to a circle.

Lightly grease a large heavy-based frying pan or griddle plate with ghee over low heat and cook the rotis on both sides until lightly browned on both sides. Serve hot.

LEILA’S ROTIS

Leila’s flatbread

MAKES: ABOUT 6

When my daughter Deborah and I travelled around Asia to research for the ’Complete Asian Cookbook’, we stayed with my old friend and first mentor, Anne Abayasekara. Anne had given me my first job as a 19 year old, straight out of school. Throwing me in at the deep end, she told me to write a weekly cookery column. ’But I don’t know how to cook’, I wailed. ’Then you had better learn,’ she replied with scant sympathy. Fortunately, I had the right contacts. My aunts were excellent cooks, and supplied me with a wealth of recipes.

Leila was Anne’s family cook at the time of our visit. Leila’s rotis were a great treat, with the zing of some fresh chillies and finely chopped fresh red Asian shallots, which are used widely in Sri Lanka. I thought they were too good not to include here.

320 g (2 cups) rice flour or 300 g (2 cups) roti flour or plain flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

45 g (½ cup) freshly grated or desiccated coconut

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons butter or coconut oil

2 tablespoons finely chopped red Asian shallots

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh red or green chilli

1 egg, beaten

ghee or oil, for cooking

Mix together the flour, baking powder, coconut and salt in a bowl. Rub in the butter until evenly distributed, then add the shallots, chilli, egg and just enough water to form a stiff dough, about 250 ml (1 cup). Knead the dough until it forms a ball and does not stick to side of the bowl. Rest the dough for about 30 minutes.

Shape the dough into balls, approximately the size of a golf ball. Pat each one out to a circle.

Lightly grease a large heavy-based frying pan or a griddle plate with ghee over low heat and cook the rotis on both sides until lightly browned on both sides. Serve hot.

APPE

Hoppers

MAKES: ABOUT 20

The name doesn’t really tell you anything unless you’ve been in this part of the world and eaten ’appe’, ’appam’ or ’hoppers’ as they are variously called. They are bowl-shaped pancakes made from a batter of rice flour, yeast and coconut milk, swirled in hemispherical pans (rather like a smaller, more acutely curved wok) and baked over hot coals with more coals heaped on the lid. They can be cooked with equal success on gas or electric stoves, and the pans are sold in shops that specialise in utensils from India and Sri Lanka. I have also made them in a small omelette pan — the shape is unorthodox but the taste is perfect. In Sri Lanka, hoppers are served for breakfast, but are equally good as a snack any time.

My husband, Reuben, was the hopper king and his recipe became the Sunday morning favourite for our grandchildren. Ever in search of the perfect formula, this is the final version, dated 24 November 2006, written in his own hand in our kitchen copy of an earlier edition of this cookbook. For health reasons he used water instead of coconut milk, but if you prefer, use 185 ml (¾ cup) thin coconut milk instead of the second amount of coconut milk.

2 teaspoons dried yeast

2 teaspoons sugar

50 g (¼ cup) ground rice

120 g (¾ cup) rice flour

110 g (¾ cup) self-raising flour

1 teaspoon salt

extra virgin coconut oil, for cooking

Sprinkle the yeast into a bowl with 185 ml (¾ cup) lukewarm water, stir to dissolve, then add the sugar and set aside for 10 minutes, or until the mixture starts to froth. This is to test whether the yeast is live. If it does not froth start again with a fresh batch of yeast.

Put the ground rice, rice flour, self-raising flour and salt into a large bowl.

Add the yeast mixture to 185 ml (¾ cup) water (or use thin coconut milk) and stir into the dry ingredients to form a smooth, thick batter. Allow to stand in a warm (turned off) oven for 1 hour, or until the mixture rises and doubles in size — the batter should be of a thick pouring consistency, but thin enough to cover the side of the pan with an almost translucent coating when the batter is swirled. It may be necessary to add some extra water or thin coconut milk. A little practice will tell you when you have achieved the perfect consistency, and so much depends on the absorbency of the flour that it is not possible to give an exact measurement — aim for the consistency of pouring cream.

Lightly oil hopper pans over low heat, pour in a small ladleful of the batter and immediately swirl the pan so that the batter coats the pan two-thirds of the way up. Cover the pan (any saucepan lid that fits just inside the top edge will do) and cook over very low heat for about 5 minutes, or until the upper edges begin to turn a pale toasty colour — the batter will run down the sides to the centre to create a little circle of spongy mixture, much like a crumpet, while the curved edge is very thin, crisp and wafer-like. Remove to a wire rack and repeat with the remaining mixture, oiling the pan as needed. Serve the hoppers warm, accompanied by pol sambol and lunu miris sambol or any kind of meat, fish or chicken curry.

Variation: To make biththara appe (egg hoppers), proceed as for hoppers, but as soon as the pan is coated with batter, break a fresh egg into the centre. Cover and cook as before — the egg will cook to just the right stage while the hopper bakes, and looks prettier than an egg cooked any other way. Serve with salt and pepper for seasoning.

You can also make miti kiri appe (coconut cream hoppers) served with sweet accompaniments such as fresh grated coconut and palm sugar (jaggery). If to be served sweet, spoon a small amount of rich coconut milk into the centre before putting on the lid.

IDDI APPE

Stringhopper pilau

SERVES: 8–10

Stringhoppers get their name because they are composed of fine ‘strings’ of dough forced through a perforated mould to form lacy circles about the size of a saucer. These are steamed on woven round rattan racks piled over each other — they are light, fluffy and dry to the touch. An average serving is about six or eight stringhoppers served for breakfast with simple coconut milk soup and coconut sambol. Stringhoppers are also a favourite at festive lunches or dinners and in this setting are shredded finely and cooked as pilau, accompanied by chicken mulligatawny, scrambled eggs, frikkadels, meat or chicken curry and chilli sambol. They are typical of Sri Lankan food, but since making them can be an arduous task, the recipe that follows is a substitute using Chinese rice vermicelli. I call it ‘mock stringhopper pilau’.

500 g rice vermicelli

100 g ghee

3 large onions, thinly sliced

10 curry leaves

½ teaspoon ground saffron or 1 teaspoon saffron strands

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

4–5 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced, to serve

150 g (1 cup) cooked peas, to serve

40 g (¼ cup) cashews or almonds, toasted, to serve

Cook the rice vermicelli in a saucepan of salted boiling water for 2 minutes only. Drain well.

Heat the ghee in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and curry leaves and cook until the onion is golden. Add the saffron, turmeric and cardamom and stir well. Add the rice vermicelli and toss the ingredients together until mixed through and evenly coloured. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve garnished with the eggs, peas and nuts.

Note: If liked, the hard-boiled eggs can be rubbed with ground turmeric and fried in a little hot oil until golden.

PITTU

Steamed coconut and rice flour bread

SERVES: 8

Pittu is a combination of flour and freshly grated coconut steamed in a bamboo steamer. The resulting roll, looking something like a white suet pudding but infinitely lighter in texture, is served with fresh coconut milk, hot sambols and curries, and is especially popular as a breakfast dish. To improvise a steamer, use a tall, narrow tin, such as a biscuit or coffee tin, cut away the base, make a dozen holes in the lid and invert the tin so the lid is now the base. Fill the tin with the coconut mixture. If a steamer is not available, put the cylinder in a large saucepan with a trivet in it to hold the tin above the water level.

125 g (2 cups) grated fresh coconut or 185 g (2 cups) desiccated coconut and 250 ml (1 cup) water

150 g (1 cup) plain flour or 160 g (1 cup) rice flour

185 g (1 cup) fine semolina

1½ teaspoons salt

If using desiccated coconut, put it into a large bowl, sprinkle with the water and use your fingertips to work gently together until the coconut is moist. Fresh coconut does not need water.

Add the sifted flour, semolina and salt to the coconut and rub gently with the fingertips until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Fill a bamboo or metal cylinder with this and press down lightly. Steam over boiling water for 10–15 minutes. Allow to cool slightly, then unmould and serve with coconut milk for moistening, ground onion and chilli sambol or a hot curry such as tripe curry, which is traditional with pittu. Pittu can also be served with sweet accompaniments such as coconut milk, grated palm sugar (jaggery) or sugar.

LAMPRIES

Curry parcels

SERVES: 16–18

Just as biriani is the ultimate in festival meals in India, lampries is the ‘special occasion’ dish in Sri Lanka. If you are invited to a meal in a Sri Lankan home and lampries are served, you are being honoured. The name comes from the Dutch word, ’lomprijst’, and it is a fascinating combination of rice cooked in stock, Dutch-style forcemeat balls, Sinhalese curries and sambols, all wrapped in banana leaves and baked. Each component recipe can be made ahead, some may even be frozen, to make ‘lampries wrapping day’ as easy as possible.

On a recent visit to Sri Lanka, I was treated to a lampries lunch. On opening the parcel, I was reminded of the type of rice traditionally used in this festive dish, the small, pearly grains of ’muttu samba’. This rice is highly regarded in that country, but my husband did not like it because it is parboiled, giving it a distinct flavour which was not to his taste. Without apologies I have therefore used basmati rice.

banana leaves

3 quantities ghee rice

1 quantity lampries curry

1 quantity frikkadels

1 quantity eggplant pickle

1 quantity chilli sambol

1 quantity prawn blacan

thick coconut milk

Using large, wide banana leaves, strip them from the centre rib and cut into pieces, approximately 30–40 cm long. Wash and dry with a clean tea towel and heat over a gas flame for a few seconds on each side to make them pliable so they will fold without splitting. Alternatively, put the banana leaves in a large basin or sink and pour boiling water over the top.

Preheat the oven to 190°C (Gas 5).

On each banana leaf, place 1 cup firmly-packed ghee rice and arrange 2 tablespoons lampries curry, 2 frikkadels, 2 teaspoons eggplant pickle, 1 teaspoon chilli sambol and 1 heaped teaspoon prawn blacan around the rice. Pour 2 tablespoons thick coconut milk over the rice. Fold the banana leaf over and fasten with short bamboo skewers or fold over the foil to make a neat oblong package. Some people prefer to enclose leaf parcels in foil as well — this is a good idea in case the leaf splits while heating or serving.

Heat the lampries for about 20–25 minutes, then remove from the oven and arrange on a large serving tray. When the lampries are opened, the fragrance of the food is unbelievably appetising. Allow 1–2 lampries for each guest. A bowl of chilled cucumber sambol can be served alongside.

Note: It is practical to make a large number of lampries, as they are ideal for parties. They freeze well and can be kept frozen for 2 months. Heat in a moderate oven from frozen state for 40 minutes, or 20 minutes if first thawed in the refrigerator. If you can’t get banana leaves, use 40 cm squares of foil instead.

GHEE RICE

SERVES: 4–5

400 g (2 cups) basmati or other long-grain rice

2½ tablespoons ghee

1 large onion, thinly sliced

4 whole cloves

6 cardamom pods, bruised

1 cinnamon stick

875 ml (3½ cups) beef, chicken or mutton stock

2 teaspoons salt

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until golden. Add the spices and rice and cook, stirring constantly with a slotted metal spoon, for 5 minutes. Add the hot stock and salt and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 15–20 minutes without lifting the lid. Remove from the heat, uncover and rest for 5 minutes to allow steam to escape. Gently fluff up the rice with a fork, removing the whole spices.

When transferring the rice to a serving dish, use a slotted metal spoon to avoid crushing the grains of rice. Serve hot, accompanied by curries of meat and vegetables, pickles and sambols.

KIRI BATH

Milk rice

SERVES: 4–5

A simple preparation of rice cooked in coconut milk, kiri bath is part of the traditions of the Sinhalese people. It is a ‘must’ on New Year’s Day, and on the first day of each month it is the accepted breakfast dish. It is usually served with hot sambols, but some prefer it with grated palm sugar (jaggery). Don’t expect long fluffy grains with a hint of coconut when you cook this dish. Rich with creamy coconut and dense enough to cut with a knife, for my family it is a once-a-year treat.

440 g (2 cups) short-grain rice

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

2 teaspoons salt

1 cinnamon stick (optional)

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander.

Put the rice and 750 ml (3 cups) water into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Add the coconut milk, salt and cinnamon stick, if using, stir well with the handle of a wooden spoon, then re-cover the pan and continue to cook over low heat for a further 10–15 minutes, or until all of the milk has been absorbed. Remove from the heat, discard the cinnamon. Cool slightly, then turn out onto a flat plate. Mark off in diamond shapes and serve with coconut sambol.

KAHA BATH

Yellow rice

SERVES: 6–8

This is a special-occasion dish in which the rice is cooked in coconut milk and delicately flavoured with spices.

600 g (3 cups) long-grain rice

80 g ghee

2 onions, thinly sliced

6 whole cloves

20 whole black peppercorns

12 cardamom pods, bruised

1½ teaspoons ground turmeric

3½ teaspoons salt

12 curry leaves

1 stem lemongrass

1 pandanus leaf (optional)

1.25 litres (5 cups) thin coconut milk

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Heat the ghee in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it begins to turn golden. Add the cloves, peppercorns, cardamom pods, turmeric, salt, curry leaves, lemongrass and pandanus leaf, if using. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, for 2–3 minutes, or until the rice is well coated. Add the coconut milk and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 20–25 minutes without lifting the lid.

When the rice is cooked, the spices will have risen to the top. Remove the spices and the leaves. Fluff up the rice lightly with a fork. Serve hot, accompanied by fried pork curry or other curries and accompaniments.

KOPPE BATH

Cup rice

SERVES: 8

1 quantity yellow rice (opposite)

1 quantity coconut sambol

4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved (optional)

Basically, this is yellow rice moulded in a cup, with a layer of coconut sambol in the centre. You can put a halved hard-boiled egg in the base of the cup before half filling with the warm rice if you like. Press firmly. Cover this with 1 tablespoon of coconut sambol, then cover with more yellow rice. Again press down firmly, then turn out onto a serving dish. Repeat until all the rice is used up. Serve with curries and accompaniments.

MAS PAAN

Meat buns

MAKES: ABOUT 30

Popular as a snack at any time of day, yeast buns filled with curried meat are sold piping hot from the oven at almost every tea boutique in Sri Lanka. You may need to break the beef cubes in the beef curry down slightly to fit the buns.

This dough recipe is the rising agent in ‘Breudher’ (the Sri Lankan yeast cake). The extra gluten helps it to rise and hold its shape.

1 quantity beef curry

500 g potatoes, peeled and diced

1 egg yolk, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

Basic dough

125 ml (½ cup) milk

3 teaspoons sugar

2 teaspoons salt

90 g butter

30 g compressed yeast or 2 teaspoons active dried yeast

900 g (6 cups) plain flour

1 tablespoon gluten flour

Add the potato to the beef curry during the final 30 minutes of cooking and cook the curry until it is very dry. Allow to cool.

To make the dough, put the milk into a saucepan over high heat and bring almost to the boil, then remove from the heat, stir in sugar, salt and butter and allow to cool to lukewarm.

Put the yeast in a bowl, pour over 375 ml (1½ cups) water and stir until dissolved. Add the lukewarm milk mixture and sift in 450 g (3 cups) of the plain flour and the gluten flour. Beat with a wooden spoon until smooth. Add just enough of the remaining flour to make a soft dough.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for about 10 minutes, or until smooth and elastic. Shape into a smooth ball and place into a greased bowl. Cover with a clean tea towel and set aside in a warm draught-free place for about 1 hour, or until doubled in size. The dough is now ready to be divided and rolled for use.

To prepare the buns, knock back the dough and divide into 30 equal portions — this is probably easiest if you divide the dough first into three equal portions, then each of those into five, then each of the five portions in half. Flatten each portion into a circle and place a spoonful of the meat and potato curry in the centre. Bring the edges together, pressing and moulding to seal. Buns should be nicely rounded on top and not too doughy at the bottom — to achieve this keep the dough thicker in the centre of the rounds and thin at the edges.

Arrange the buns, seam side down, on greased baking trays, with enough space between to allow for rising and spreading. Cover with a clean tea towel and leave in a warm place for 30–40 minutes or until nearly doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (Gas 6). Brush the egg glaze over the top and bake for 15–20 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve hot or cold.

PATTIES

MAKES: ABOUT 75 PATTIES

Birthdays are celebrated with much enthusiasm in Sri Lanka and these popular savoury pastries are a ’must’ for parties. The traditional pastry used for patties is a rather unusual one that uses coconut milk. You can also use a shortcrust pastry, if you prefer.

Patty pastry

300 g (2 cups) plain flour

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon beef dripping or butter

60 ml (¼ cup) thick coconut milk

2 egg yolks, beaten

oil, for frying

Filling

500 g chicken thighs

500 g beef rump steak or lamb leg chops

250 g pork chops

125 g bacon or ham

1 tablespoon ghee

1 onion, finely chopped

8 curry leaves

2 teaspoons Ceylon curry powder

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons salt

1 stem lemongrass, bruised, or 2 strips lemon zest

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

4–6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and chopped

1 egg white

coconut oil or vegetable oil, for deep-frying

To make the patty pastry, sift the flour and salt into a bowl and rub in the dripping with your fingertips. Add the combined coconut milk and egg yolk and knead lightly to a smooth dough. If necessary add a little extra milk or flour – flour varies in absorbency and it is difficult to be absolutely precise. Wrap the dough in baking paper and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Take one-quarter of the dough at a time and roll out very thinly on a lightly floured work surface. Use an 8 cm pastry cutter to make about 75 circles in total.

To make the filling, put the chicken, beef and pork into a saucepan with just enough water to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain, reserving 375 ml (1½ cups) of the stock. Remove the meat from the bones, discarding the bones, and cut the chicken, beef and pork into dice. Remove the rind from the bacon and cut into small squares.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and curry leaves and cook until the onion starts to brown. Add the curry powder, turmeric, cloves, cinnamon, pepper and salt and stir well. Add the reserved stock, lemongrass and the diced meat. Mix well, cover, and simmer gently until the meats are tender and the liquid has almost evaporated. Add the coconut milk and dill, stir and cook uncovered until the coconut milk has been absorbed. Remove from the heat, discarding the lemongrass and curry leaves.

Place 1 teaspoonful of filling in the centre of each pastry round. Top with a piece of hard-boiled egg, then wet the edges of the pastry with egg white, fold over to make a half circle and press the edges firmly together to seal. In Sri Lanka, the edge is always ornamented by pressing with the tines of a fork. Repeat until all of the pastry has been filled.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the patties, in batches, until golden. Drain on paper towel and serve warm.

SRI LANKAN PAN ROLLS

MAKES: ABOUT 25

These most delicious pancake rolls are a speciality of Thelma Koch and her daughter, Pax Crowe. Perfect finger food, they may be made ahead and frozen, then heated before serving.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 large brown onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 slices bacon (optional)

10 curry leaves, chopped

1 tablespoon Ceylon curry powder

500 g minced (ground) beef

1 large potato, peeled and cut into 1 cm dice

1 tablespoon lemon or lime juice

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Pancakes

300 g (2 cups) plain flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

5 eggs

500 ml (2 cups) milk

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon melted butter or oil

220 g (2 cups) dry breadcrumbs

oil, for deep-frying

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat and fry the onion, garlic, bacon and curry leaves until soft. Stir in the curry powder. Add the beef and cook over high heat until it browns. Add the potato, lemon or lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, sugar, salt, ginger and 125 ml (½ cup) water. Cover, and cook over medium heat until the potato is cooked through and the liquid has absorbed — the mixture should be moist, not wet. Finally, add the dill and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed — you may like to add a teaspoon of chilli powder or chopped fresh chilli. This filling may be made beforehand and refrigerated. Allow to cool as it is easier to work with a cold filling.

To make the pancakes, sift together the flour and baking powder in a bowl. Whisk 3 of the eggs in a separate mixing bowl. Alternately add the flour and milk, then add the salt, sugar and melted butter or oil and beat until smooth —the batter should be just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. If necessary, thin out with a little extra milk or water. Set aside to rest for 1 hour.

Lightly oil a small pancake pan and place over medium heat. Pour in enough batter to make a pancake with a 14 cm diameter. When cooked on one side, remove to a plate and start cooking the next pancake. While it cooks, place a tablespoon of filling on the cooked pancake. Fold in the two sides and then roll up like a spring roll. Move to a tray and continue making, filling and rolling the pancakes.

When all the mixture has been used and the pancakes are rolled, dip each one in the remaining beaten eggs and roll in dry breadcrumbs to coat — the rolls may be refrigerated at this stage.

To serve, fry the rolls in moderately hot oil, then drain on paper towel and serve plain or with chilli sauce. These rolls also freeze well. Thaw, then heat in a moderate oven when required.

MALU CURRY

Fish curry

SERVES: 4–6

4 large fish steaks, such as Spanish mackerel, jewfish, mulloway or cod

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

oil, for frying

½ tablespoon tamarind pulp

2 onions, finely chopped

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 small cinnamon stick

1 pandanus leaf

8 curry leaves

1½ tablespoons Ceylon curry powder

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Rub each fish steak with a mixture of the pepper, salt and turmeric. Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, cook the fish to a golden colour on both sides. Drain on paper towel and set aside.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, fenugreek seeds, garlic and ginger and cook until they turn golden. Add the cinnamon stick, pandanus leaf, curry leaves and curry powder and cook for 2 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the tamarind liquid and coconut milk and simmer, uncovered, until the sauce has thickened and slightly reduced. Add the fish steaks and spoon over the sauce; continue to simmer for about 10 minutes. Serve hot with rice and vegetable curries.

KIRI MALU

Fish white curry

SERVES: 6

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

8 curry leaves

375 ml (1½ cups) thin coconut milk

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

lemon juice, to taste

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Rub each fish fillet with turmeric and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Soak the fenugreek seeds in 60 ml (¼ cup) water for 30 minutes.

Put the fenugreek seeds into a saucepan with the onion, garlic, curry leaves, thin coconut milk and the remaining salt. Simmer gently until the onion has softened, stirring well. Add the fish and simmer for a further 10 minutes, then add the thick coconut milk and cook for a few minutes longer. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice, to taste. Serve with rice and sambols.

AMBUL THIYAL

Sour curry of fish

SERVES: 6

In Sri Lanka, the acid element traditionally used in fish curries is ‘goraka’, a bright orange fruit that is divided into segments and dried. The dried segments are almost black. If you can obtain this ingredient, use four segments and grind them to a pulp, I have used tamarind as a substitute because it is more readily available.

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets, such as snapper

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

60 ml (¼ cup) vinegar

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

6–8 curry leaves

1 stem lemongrass, bruised, or 2 strips lemon zest

2.5 cm cinnamon stick

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 tablespoons oil

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut each fish fillet into large pieces. Soak the tamarind pulp in the vinegar for 10 minutes. If the tamarind is very dry, heat the vinegar and tamarind in an enamel saucepan for a few minutes, adding some water. When cool enough to handle, squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Put the fish, tamarind liquid and remaining ingredients into a large heavy-based frying pan with 375 ml (1½ cups) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the fish is cooked through and the sauce has thickened — shake the pan or turn the fish pieces carefully once or twice during cooking. Serve with rice.

Note: Because of the high acid content of this curry, it is preferable to use a non-reactive enamel or stainless steel pan.

THAKKALI MALU

Fish curry with tomato

SERVES: 4–5

500 g fish steaks, such as kingfish, tuna, Spanish mackerel or mullet

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon salt, plus extra to taste oil, for frying

1 large onion, roughly chopped

3 garlic cloves

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

1 ripe tomato, chopped

1 tablespoon Ceylon curry powder

1 teaspoon chilli powder

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut each fish fillet into large pieces. Rub each fish steak with the turmeric and salt.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the fish and cook on both sides until golden brown. Drain on paper towel.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger and tomato in a food processor and process to a smooth paste.

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the tomato mixture and cook for 3–4 minutes, or until the oil begins to separate. Add the curry powder and chilli powder, coconut milk and about 1 teaspoon salt, and bring to the boil. Simmer for a few minutes, then add the fish to the sauce and simmer for 10 minutes. Serve with rice and your favourite accompaniments.

MALU ROAST

Spicy barbecued fish

SERVES: 4

4 x 500 g small whole tailor or mullet

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 small onion, sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled

2 slices fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

8 curry leaves, crushed (optional)

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

1 tablespoon oil

banana leaves or foil, for wrapping

Clean and scale the fish, leaving the head on. To clean the cavity, wipe inside the fish cavity with damp paper towel that has first been dipped in coarse salt. Trim any long spines or fins neatly. Cut diagonal slashes in the flesh with a sharp knife, about 2.5 cm apart, and rub each fish with a little of the lemon juice, salt, turmeric and pepper.

Put all of the remaining ingredients into a food processor and process to a smooth paste (or use a mortar and pestle). Rub the mixture all over each fish, making sure it is pushed well into the slashes and body cavity. Spoon any remaining mixture over the fish and wrap each fish in banana leaves or foil to make a neat parcel. Put over glowing coals or under a preheated griller (broiler) and cook for 10 minutes on each side. Open the parcel for the last few minutes of cooking to evaporate any excess moisture. Serve hot with rice.

MALU BOLA CUTLIS

Fish koftas

MAKES: ABOUT 60

425 g tinned mackerel or snoek

500 g floury potatoes, peeled

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 large or two small eggs, beaten

60 g (1 cup) fresh white breadcrumbs

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon Ceylon curry powder

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh red or green chillies

dry breadcrumbs or cornflake crumbs, for coating

oil, for deep-frying

Drain the fish, pressing with a spoon to get rid of as much liquid as possible.

Cook the potatoes in a saucepan of boiling water until cooked through, then mash while hot. Measure and take same weight as that of the drained fish. Mix the mackerel and potato together in a bowl with the onion, egg, fresh breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, curry powder, dill and chilli and mix well to combine. Shape the mixture into small balls — you should make about 60 in total. Roll each ball in the dry breadcrumbs to coat, then place on baking trays and refrigerate for 1 hour to help set the coating.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the balls, in batches, until brown. Do not have the oil too hot or the crumb coating will float off and the koftas will brown before they are heated through. When nicely brown lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. These fish koftas can be made ahead of time and frozen in a plastic freezer bag when cool — you will need to reheat in a moderate oven before serving.

RATHU ISSO CURRY

Red prawn curry

SERVES: 6

750 g small raw prawns

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 small cinnamon stick

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

3 curry leaves

1 small stem lemongrass, bruised or 2 strips lemon zest

1 pandanus leaf

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons chilli powder

2 teaspoons paprika

1 teaspoon salt

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

lemon juice, to taste

With kitchen scissors, snip off the prawn feelers, leave the heads and shells on. (In Sri Lanka prawns are often cooked in their shells, for better flavour.) Put all of the ingredients, except the lemon juice, into a large saucepan and bring slowly to simmering point. Simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes, or until the onion has softened and the prawns are cooked through. Stir in the lemon juice, to taste, and season with salt, if needed. Serve hot with rice.

ISSO THEL DHALA

Dry-fried prawns

SERVES: 6

Once again, paprika comes to the rescue and makes this spicy prawn preparation an enticing red colour. If you are inclined to try it the real Sri Lankan way, increase the amount of chilli powder … but don’t say I didn’t warn you!

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

2 large onions, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

2 teaspoons paprika

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

1 kg raw prawns, peeled and deveined, tails left intact

2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon tomato paste (concentrated purée)

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook over low heat until the onion is golden brown. Add the salt, chilli powder, paprika and turmeric and cook for 1 minute, then add the Maldive fish and prawns, and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add 125 ml (½ cup) water, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the sugar and tomato paste and cook for a few minutes further, until the sauce is a dark reddish brown, thick and dry enough to coat the prawns. Serve with rice. As an appetiser, these prawns are delicious on small squares of fried bread.

Note: As an appetiser, these prawns are delicious served on small squares of fried bread.

KAKULUWO OMLET CURRY

Crab omelette curry

SERVES: 2–4

A simple omelette served in curry sauce is no longer commonplace, and when it is a crab omelette the result is something to remember … and I do. My father was not what you would call a domesticated man, but he had one culinary accomplishment: he could make a crab omelette better than any other I ever tasted. Dad would go to the market and choose himself the biggest, heaviest, freshest crab he could find and bring it home, still alive and bent on escape. When it had been steamed to flavoursome succulence and the meat was carefully extracted from the shell and claws, Dad combined eggs, crab, spring onion and fresh chilli to create a masterpiece. He never did write down his recipe, but I have managed to reconstruct something very like it. Do try to use fresh crab meat — it is a vast improvement on the frozen or tinned varieties. Serve as an omelette or in a curry sauce.

4 eggs, lightly beaten

salt and freshly ground black pepper

175 g (1 cup) flaked crab meat

lemon juice, to taste

1 tablespoon butter

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 fresh green or red chilli, seeded and finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill (optional)

1 quantity vegetable curry sauce

Season the egg with ½ teaspoon salt and a good grinding of black pepper. Season the crab meat with salt and pepper, to taste, and add a squeeze of lemon juice.

Heat the butter in a large heavy-based frying pan or omelette pan over low heat. Add the spring onion and chilli and cook until soft, stirring frequently. Pour in the egg and stir in the dill, then start scraping portions of egg from the side of the pan and letting the uncooked egg run out to the edges. When set and golden on the bottom and creamy on top, spoon the heated crab meat down the centre of the omelette and fold over once. Spoon the warm vegetable curry sauce over the top and serve hot with rice.

SIYAMBALA MALU CURRY

Fish curry with tamarind

SERVES: 6

500 g fish steaks, such as bonito, tuna or mackerel

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

1½ tablespoons Ceylon curry powder

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

8 curry leaves

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut each fish fillet into large pieces. Soak the tamarind pulp in 125 ml (½ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Combine the tamarind liquid with the curry powder, salt, turmeric and chilli powder and pour over the fish in a bowl. Leave to marinate for 20 minutes.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the curry leaves and fenugreek seeds and cook for 2 minutes, then add the onion and garlic, and continue to cook until the onion is golden, stirring occasionally. Add the fish and marinade, cover, and cook over low heat for 10 minutes, or until the fish is opaque and flakes easily when tested with a fork. Serve with rice and vegetable curries.

KAKULUWO CURRY

Crab curry

SERVES: 4–6

2 large raw or cooked mud crabs

3 onions, finely chopped

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

10 curry leaves

8 cm cinnamon stick

1–2 teaspoons chilli powder

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

3 teaspoons salt

1 litre (4 cups) thin coconut milk

2 tablespoons desiccated coconut

1 tablespoon ground rice

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Remove the large shells from the crabs and discard the fibrous tissue under the shell. Divide each crab into four portions, breaking each body in half and separating the claws from the body, leaving the legs attached. Crack the claws with the back of a heavy knife or cleaver.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, fenugreek seeds, curry leaves, cinnamon stick, chilli powder, turmeric, salt and thin coconut milk into a large saucepan, cover and simmer over mediumlow heat for 30 minutes. Add the crab — if using raw crabs continue to simmer for a further 20 minutes, or 5–7 minutes if cooked crabs are used. The crab should be submerged in the sauce during cooking. Remove the crab to a plate.

Meanwhile, heat the coconut and ground rice in a separate dry frying pan over medium heat, stirring constantly, until golden brown. Transfer to a food processor, add half of the thick coconut milk and process until well combined. Add to the pan with the remaining coconut milk and the lemon juice, simmer for 10 minutes, then return the crab to the pan and heat through. Serve with rice.

Note: If the onions are large and tough, first soften by cooking gently in 2–3 tablespoons oil for 20 minutes before including in the recipe.

DHALLO BADUN

Fried squid curry

SERVES: 4–6

1 kg squid

2 onions, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 tablespoons Ceylon curry powder

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 cinnamon stick

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips lemon zest

10 curry leaves

60 ml (¼ cup) vinegar

750 ml (3 cups) coconut milk

1½ teaspoons ghee or oil

Clean each squid, removing the ink sac and discarding the head. Rinse the tubes under cold running water to remove the skin. Drain well and cut the tubes into rings.

Place in a deep saucepan with all of the remaining ingredients except the ghee. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the squid is tender and the sauce has reduced and thickened. Remove from the heat.

Remove the squid from the sauce. In a separate saucepan, heat the ghee over medium–high heat and cook the squid. Add the sauce to the fried squid and simmer for 1–2 minutes to heat through. Serve with rice and sambols.

THARA PADRE CURRY

Duck padre curry

SERVES: 6–8

The name of this curry has always fascinated me. Why it is called ‘padre’ curry is not clear. It contains arrack, or whisky, and one explanation offered is that it was a favourite with the padre because it was his only opportunity to imbibe!

2 x 1.7 kg whole ducks

2 large onions, chopped

6 garlic cloves, chopped

1½ tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger

2 tablespoons Ceylon curry powder

1 cinnamon stick

2 pandanus leaves

1 stem lemongrass, bruised, or 2 strips lemon zest

750 ml (3 cups) coconut milk

2 teaspoons salt

60 ml (¼ cup) vinegar

60 ml (¼ cup) arrack or whisky

1 tablespoon soft brown sugar

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

Cut the ducks into portions. Put in a large heavy-based saucepan with all the remaining ingredients except the ghee, arrack and sugar. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the duck is tender, about 1½–2 hours. Remove from the heat, remove the duck pieces from the sauce and drain.

Heat the ghee in a separate saucepan over medium heat. Add the duck and cook until golden, pouring off any excess oil. Add the sauce, arrack and sugar, and simmer for a further 10 minutes. Serve with plain boiled rice or ghee rice, fried onion sambol and cucumber sambol. For another version of this dish, garnish with slices of lightly fried potato.

KUKUL GUJURA CURRY

Chicken gizzard curry

SERVES: 6

Gizzards are the secondary stomach of poultry. After slow and careful cooking they change to a melting texture similar to lamb shanks. If available, duck gizzards may also be used for this recipe.

750 g chicken gizzards

1½ tablespoons ground coriander

3 teaspoons ground cumin

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

2 onions, finely chopped

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground fenugreek (optional)

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

1½ teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Wash and clean the gizzards by removing any yellow membrane and leave to drain in a colander.

Put the ground coriander in a small dry frying pan and stir over low heat for a few minutes until roasted to a fairly dark brown and giving out a pleasant aroma. Remove to a plate. Roast the cumin in the same way.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion softens and starts to turn golden brown. Add the chilli powder, turmeric, fenugreek, if using, and roasted coriander and cumin and continue cooking for 1 minute, then add the tomato and salt and stir well. Add the chicken gizzards and stir until they are well coated with the spice mixture. Add 750 ml (3 cups) hot water and simmer over low heat for 2 hours, or until the gizzards are tender. Sprinkle with the coriander leaves, stir to combine, and cook for a further 5 minutes. Serve hot with rice.

KUKUL MAS CURRY

Chicken curry

SERVES: 4–5

1.5 kg whole chicken or chicken leg and thigh quarters

3 tablespoons ghee or oil

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds (optional)

10 curry leaves

2 large onions, finely chopped

4–5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground fennel

2 teaspoons paprika

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons malt vinegar

2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped (see note)

6 cardamom pods, bruised

1 cinnamon stick

1 stem lemongrass, bruised, or 2 strips lemon zest

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

lemon juice, to taste

Joint the chicken — cut breast and thighs in half, leaving the wings and drumsticks whole.

Heat the ghee in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the fenugreek seeds, if using, and curry leaves and cook until they start to brown. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is golden. Add the turmeric, chilli powder, coriander, cumin, fennel, paprika, salt and vinegar and stir well to combine.

Add the chicken to the pan and stir until it is well coated in the spices. Add the tomato, whole spices and lemongrass, cover, and cook over low heat for 40–50 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Add the coconut milk, taste and add more salt and a squeeze of lemon juice, if desired. Do not cover after adding coconut milk. Serve with rice and accompaniments.

Note: Paprika is used to give the required red colour — in Sri Lanka the colour is achieved by using about 30 dried red chillies! The easiest way to peel a tomato is to first loosen the skin. This can be done by scoring a cross in the base of each tomato and blanching them briefly in a saucepan of boiling water. When cool, use your fingers to peel away the skins.

JAGGERY SATAY

Beef with palm sugar

SERVES: 6

Sweet, sour, salty, hot, this meat preparation is all of the above, but does not use any of the curry spices. A spicy sauce may be served with it if liked, but is not strictly necessary. Without palm sugar (jaggery) the flavour will not be exactly right, but soft brown sugar can be substituted.

750 g round, blade or other lean steak

2 tablespoons tamarind pulp

2 teaspoons chilli powder, or to taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

45 g (¼ cup) chopped palm sugar (jaggery) or 2 tablespoons soft brown sugar

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

Cut the beef into 2 cm cubes. Soak the tamarind pulp in 250 ml (1 cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Add the chilli powder, pepper, salt and palm sugar to the tamarind liquid and stir to dissolve the sugar.

Heat the oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, cook the beef, in batches, for about 1–2 minutes, or until the cubes are lightly browned. Remove the beef with a slotted spoon and transfer to a saucepan. Wait until the oil stops spitting, then repeat until all the beef has been cooked.

Pour the tamarind mixture over the beef in the saucepan and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the beef is tender and the sauce has reduced. Thread the meat onto skewers and serve with white rice.

HARAK MAS CURRY

Beef curry

SERVES: 8–10

1.5 kg stewing steak

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

2 large onions, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

3–4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

4 tablespoons Ceylon curry powder

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons black mustard seeds

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon vinegar

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

3 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

Cut the steak into 5 cm cubes.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, ginger and garlic and cook until just starting to turn golden. Add the curry powder, turmeric and mustard seeds and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the salt, vinegar and beef and stir well to coat. Add the chilli and tomato, cover, and simmer for about 2 hours, or until the sauce has thickened. Serve with rice and other accompaniments. If the sauce is too thin when the meat is tender, cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until reduced.

MAS ISMORU

Beef smoore

SERVES: 6–8

This recipe features a large piece of beef, cooked in a spicy coconut milk mixture, then sliced like a roast beef and served with plenty of rich, thick gravy spooned over. Serve with rice or rotis and fried onion sambol.

1.5 kg silverside or round steak (in one piece)

2 onions, finely chopped

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 cinnamon stick

10 curry leaves

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips lemon zest

3 tablespoons Ceylon curry powder

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

½ cup vinegar

½ pickled lime or lemon

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons chilli powder, or to taste

2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

2½ tablespoons ghee

Pierce the meat all over with a skewer and put in a large saucepan with all of the ingredients except the thick coconut milk and ghee. Cover and simmer gently for 1½–2 hours, or until the meat is tender. Add the thick coconut milk and cook, uncovered, for a further 15 minutes. Remove meat to a serving dish and if the gravy is too thin, reduce by boiling rapidly. Transfer the gravy to a bowl.

Heat the ghee in the cleaned pan over low heat. Add the beef and brown on all sides, then return the gravy to the pan and heat through. To serve, slice the meat and arrange on a platter with the gravy served separately.

KURUMA IRAICHCHI

Beef pepper curry

SERVES: 8

1 kg lean stewing steak

2 teaspoons salt

2–4 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground fennel

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 onions, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and sliced

8 curry leaves

2 pandanus leaves

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips lemon zest

2 tablespoons vinegar

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

Cut the meat into 5 cm cubes and beat lightly with a meat mallet. Season the beef with the salt and pepper and toss to coat.

Separately roast the coriander, cumin and fennel in a dry frying pan. Add the roasted coriander to the beef and set aside the cumin and fennel.

Put the meat into a saucepan with the turmeric, onion, garlic, ginger, chilli, curry leaves, pandanus leaves, lemongrass, vinegar and thin coconut milk. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the meat is tender. If the sauce thickens too quickly add a little water. Remove the meat from the sauce using a slotted spoon.

Heat the ghee in a separate frying pan and cook the beef for a few minutes, stirring often.

Add the cumin and fennel to the thick coconut milk and mix into the sauce in the pan, then return the meat to the sauce and continue to simmer, uncovered, over low heat, until the sauce has thickened. Serve with rice and other accompaniments.

SATAY CURRY

Skewered beef curry

SERVES: 6

750 g rump steak, cut into cubes

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon salt

20 thin slices fresh ginger

20 thin garlic slices

3 tablespoons ghee or 60 ml (¼ cup) oil

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

8 curry leaves

2 onions, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon ground coriander, dry-roasted

2 teaspoons ground cumin, dry-roasted

½ teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon ground fennel, dry-roasted

½ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

a pinch of ground cloves

1 teaspoon salt

625 ml (2½ cups) coconut milk

Cut 10 bamboo skewers into 10 cm lengths and soak in water to prevent them from burning. Sprinkle the beef with the turmeric, pepper and salt and mix well to combine. Thread the beef onto the skewers alternately with the ginger and garlic slices.

Heat the ghee in a heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the skewers and cook, in batches, turning to seal on all sides. Remove to a plate.

Add the fenugreek seeds and curry leaves to the pan and cook for 1 minute, then add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is golden. Add the coriander, cumin, chilli powder and fennel and cook for 1 minute longer, stirring well, then add the remaining ingredients and simmer, uncovered, until thick and smooth. If necessary add more water or coconut milk. Return the skewered beef to the pan, spoon over the sauce and simmer for a further 20 minutes or until the meat is tender. Serve with white rice or ghee rice and other accompaniments.

PEEGODU CURRY

Diced liver curry

SERVES: 4

500 g calves’ livers, sliced

10 whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips lemon zest

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

8 curry leaves

60 ml (¼ cup) vinegar

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

Rinse the liver and drain, then place into a small saucepan with enough water to cover.

Add the peppercorns and salt and cook for about 15 minutes, or until the liver is firm. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, then cut the liver into very small dice.

Heat the ghee in the cleaned pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion softens. Add all of the remaining ingredients, return the liver to the pan, and cook, uncovered, until the sauce has thickened.

OOROOMAS RATHU CURRY

Pork red curry

SERVES: 8

1 kg pork belly

8–10 large dried red chillies

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 onions, 1 roughly chopped and 1 thinly sliced

5 garlic cloves

1½ teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

5 cm cinnamon stick

2 teaspoons salt

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips lemon zest

10 curry leaves

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 pandanus leaf (optional)

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

1 tablespoon oil or melted ghee

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Cut the pork into 5 cm cubes and put into a saucepan. Remove the stalks and the seeds from dried chillies and soak them in 185 ml (¾ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Soak the tamarind pulp in 125 ml (½ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Put the chillies and their soaking water into a food processor with the turmeric, chopped onion, garlic and ginger and process until smooth. Add to the pork in the pan, with the cinnamon stick and tamarind liquid. Add the salt, half of the lemongrass, half of the curry leaves, half of the fenugreek seeds and half of the pandanus leaf, if using. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the pork is tender. Add the coconut milk and simmer, uncovered, for a further 10 minutes.

Heat the oil in a separate saucepan over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and the remaining lemongrass, curry leaves, fenugreek seeds and pandanus leaf. When the onion is golden, add the pork mixture and lemon juice, stir to combine, and simmer over low heat for about 5 minutes. Serve with rice and accompaniments.

OOROOMAS BADUN

Fried pork curry

SERVES: 6–8

If you like a rich, oily curry, use pork belly. Use pork neck for a leaner version of this dish.

1 kg pork belly or neck, cut into cubes

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

1 tablespoon oil

10 curry leaves

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds (optional)

2 onions, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 tablespoons Ceylon curry powder

1–2 teaspoons chilli powder

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon vinegar

5 cm cinnamon stick

4 cardamom pods

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

Cut the pork into cubes. Soak the tamarind pulp in 125 ml (½ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the curry leaves and fenugreek seeds, if using, and cook until they start to brown. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion turns golden. Increase the heat to high and add the ginger, curry powder, chilli powder, salt, vinegar and pork, stirring thoroughly until the meat is well coated. Add the tamarind liquid, cinnamon stick and cardamom pods, cover, and continue cooking over low heat until the pork is tender, about 1 hour. Add the coconut milk and cook, uncovered, for a further 10 minutes.

Pour the sauce into a separate saucepan and set aside. Return the pork to the pan and allow to cook in its own fat — you may need to add 1 tablespoon oil extra if it isn’t fatty enough. When the pork is nicely brown, return the sauce to the pan and cook, uncovered, until the sauce has thickened. Serve hot with rice.

BABATH CURRY

Tripe curry

SERVES: 6

1 kg honeycomb tripe

8 large dried red chillies

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

½ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

8 curry leaves

1 stem lemongrass, bruised, or 2 strips lemon zest

1 pandanus leaf

8 whole cardamom pods

4 whole cloves

1 small cinnamon stick

2 onions, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

1½ teaspoons salt

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Wash the tripe well and cut into 5 cm squares.

Soak the chillies (stalks and seeds removed) in 125 ml (½ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Put the chillies and their soaking water into a food processor and process until puréed.

Put the tripe, chilli purée and all of the remaining ingredients, except the thick coconut milk and lemon juice, into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1½ hours, or until the tripe is tender and the sauce has thickened. Add the thick coconut milk and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes, stirring regularly. Remove from the heat, add the lemon juice and serve with rice or pittu.

LAMPRIES CURRY

SERVES: 16–18

500 g chuck steak

500 g diced leg of lamb or mutton

5 teaspoons salt, plus extra, to taste

8 cardamom pods

20 whole black peppercorns

500 g chicken thighs

500 g pork belly, diced

1 tablespoon ghee

2 tablespoons oil

4 onions, finely chopped

8 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 teaspoons curry leaves, crushed

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds (optional)

4 tablespoons Ceylon curry powder

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons chilli powder

1 cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

3 pandanus leaves

2 stems lemongrass, bruised, or 4 strips lemon zest

2 tablespoons lemon juice

625 ml (2½ cups) thin coconut milk

625 ml (2½ cups) thick coconut milk

Put the steak and mutton in a large saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Add 2 teaspoons of the salt, the cardamom pods and peppercorns. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes, then add the chicken and simmer for 15 minutes. Allow to cool, then strain and cut all of the meats into very small dice, discarding the bones.

Heat the ghee and oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and curry leaves and cook until the onion is golden. Add the fenugreek seeds, if using, and cook for 1 minute, then add the curry powder, turmeric, chilli powder, cinnamon stick, cardamom, pandanus leaves, lemongrass, remaining salt, lemon juice, diced pork and half of each of the coconut milks. Stir well, cover, and cook over low heat for 30 minutes. Return the meats to the pan, add the remaining coconut milk and simmer, uncovered, for 1½ hours, or until the meat is tender and sauce has thickened. Serve hot.

Note: The meat in this curry is diced twice, before and after cooking. This allows each compact serve to include a mixture of all the meats.

KARAVADU VAMBOTU CURRY

Salt fish and eggplant curry

SERVES: 6

250 g dried salted fish (glossary)

500 g eggplants (aubergines)

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon salt

125 ml (½ cup) oil, for frying

12 large banana chillies, seeded and split lengthways

10 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

60 ml (¼ cup) malt vinegar

750 ml (3 cups) coconut milk

3 tablespoons Ceylon curry powder

1 cinnamon stick

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

1–2 teaspoons sugar to taste

Rinse the dried fish, drain well, then cut into 5 cm pieces. Slice the eggplants thickly, rub each slice with the turmeric and salt and set aside in a colander for 30 minutes. Drain the liquid given off from the eggplant slices and dry each slice on paper towel.

Heat half the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Separately fry the dried fish, chillies, garlic, onion and eggplant, removing each to a plate once cooked — it may be necessary to replenish the oil as it is used up, as the eggplant absorbs quite a lot.

Soak the tamarind pulp in the vinegar for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the vinegar, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Put the coconut milk into a saucepan with the curry powder, cinnamon stick, tamarind liquid and salt. Stir until it comes to the boil, add the cooked fish, chilli, garlic, onion and eggplant and keep stirring frequently as the mixture cooks. When it is thick, add the sugar and stir to dissolve before serving.

ELOLU KIRI HODHI

Vegetable curry

SERVES: 4–6

This classic white curry is very versatile and you can use any of your favourite vegetables.

750 ml (3 cups) thin coconut milk

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and split lengthways

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

5 cm cinnamon stick

1 pandanus leaf

1 stem lemongrass, bruised, or 2 strips lemon zest

8 curry leaves

750 g mixed sliced vegetables salt, to taste

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

Put all of the ingredients, except the sliced vegetables, salt and thick coconut milk, into a large saucepan and simmer gently, uncovered, for about 10 minutes. Add the sliced vegetables and salt and cook gently until the vegetables are just tender. Add the thick coconut milk and simmer for about 5 minutes. Serve with rice, other curries and accompaniments.

CADJU CURRY

Cashew curry

SERVES: 4–6

A curry of fresh cashews is one of the delights of Sinhalese cooking. Fresh cashews are not obtainable except in the country in which they are grown, but raw cashews, from health food shops and Asian grocery stores, make a very good substitute if soaked overnight in cold water.

Proceed as for vegetable curry (above), but use 250 g raw cashews instead of the sliced vegetables. Simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the cashews are tender. Serve with rice and other accompaniments.

MALLUNG

Shredded green leaves with coconut

SERVES: 6

A ‘mallung’ is very much part of the Sri Lankan diet. It can be best described as a very tasty dry accompaniment to be eaten with rice. One or two different ‘mallungs’ are served with every meal and play an important part in nutrition because this is how the people of Sri Lanka get their vitamins. The leaves of many common plants are used; some of them grown in Western countries too, such as the yellow flowered cassia. The flowers are dried to make an infusion for medicinal purposes, and the leaves are stripped from the stems and used for ‘mallung’ — they have a pleasant sour flavour. Tender passionfruit leaves also make a delicious ‘mallung’. One of the most popular ‘mallungs’ is made with ‘gotukolle’, the ‘arthritis’ herb ‘gotu kula’. It resembles violet leaves, but is a type of cress which grows near water. As a substitute, use flat-leaf parsley.

130 g (2 cups) finely shredded green leaves

1 onion, finely chopped

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped (optional)

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

2–3 tablespoons freshly grated or desiccated coconut

Rinse the green leaves and place them into a saucepan with all of the remaining ingredients, except the coconut. If there is not much water clinging to the leaves after washing, add a sprinkling of water. Stir well, cover, and cook over medium heat for about 6 minutes. Uncover, then add the coconut and toss over low heat until the coconut absorbs all of the liquid. Remove from the heat and serve hot or cold as an accompaniment to rice.

GOVA MALLUNG

Shredded cabbage

SERVES: 6

250 g cabbage, finely shredded

1 onion, finely chopped

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

45 g (½ cup) desiccated or freshly grated coconut

Rinse the cabbage, then drain well and put it into a large saucepan with all of the remaining ingredients, except the coconut. Cover and cook over medium heat until the cabbage is tender, stirring from time to time. Uncover, then add the coconut and toss over low heat until the coconut absorbs the liquid. Serve hot or cold.

RABU KOLLE MALLUNG

Shredded radish leaf

SERVES: 4

green leaves from 1 bunch small red radishes, rinsed

1 onion, finely chopped

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon chilli powder

2 tablespoons desiccated coconut

Finely chop the radish leaves and put them into a saucepan with all of the remaining ingredients, except the coconut. Cover and cook over medium heat, or until all of the moisture has almost evaporated. Add the coconut and stir over low heat until the coconut absorbs all of the liquid — a mallung must be fairly dry in consistency. Serve with rice and curries.

BANDAKKA CURRY

Okra curry

SERVES: 4

250 g tender okra

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

oil, for deep-frying

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

6 curry leaves

1 teaspoon ground coriander, dry-roasted

½ teaspoon ground cumin, dry-roasted

1 teaspoon pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

5 cm cinnamon stick

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

375 ml (1½ cups) coconut milk

Rinse the okra, drain, then trim off the tops and slice in half lengthways. Rub with the ground turmeric to coat.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the okra until lightly browned. Drain on paper towel.

Put all of the remaining ingredients into a saucepan over low heat and simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the onion is cooked. Add the fried okra, simmer until tender and remove from the heat. Serve with rice.

ALU KEH EL CURRY

Green banana curry

SERVES: 6

The green bananas used for this curry must be really unripe, otherwise the texture will not be suitable for this dish.

4–5 very green, hard unripe bananas

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

60 ml (¼ cup) oil, plus extra for handling

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

1 small onion, thinly sliced

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

2 teaspoons pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

8 curry leaves

1 cinnamon stick

Rub your hands with oil or wear disposable kitchen gloves before starting to handle unripe bananas, as this prevents staining. Peel the bananas, cut them in halves widthways and then into slices or quarters lengthways. Rub with the salt and turmeric.

Heat the oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the banana pieces, in batches, and cook for 3–4 minutes, or until they are golden brown all over. Set aside.

Put all of the remaining ingredients into a separate saucepan and simmer until the onion is soft. Add the fried banana and simmer until the sauce has thickened. Serve hot.

LEEKS MIRISATA

Leeks fried with chilli

SERVES: 6

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

4 leeks, white part only, rinsed and thinly sliced

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

2 tablespoons pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna)

1 teaspoon salt

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the leek and cook for 5 minutes, then stir in the remaining ingredients, cover, and cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the leek has reduced in volume. Uncover and cook until the liquid has evaporated. Serve with a rice meal and other curries.

VATAKKA CURRY

Yellow pumpkin curry

SERVES: 6

500 g pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into large chunks

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

8–10 curry leaves

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

375 ml (1½ cups) thin coconut milk

1 teaspoon salt

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

Put the pumpkin in a large saucepan with all of the ingredients, except the thick coconut milk and mustard seeds. Bring slowly to simmering point and cook until the pumpkin is just tender.

Meanwhile, grind the mustard seeds using a mortar and pestle and stir into the thick coconut milk. Add to the pumpkin and cook for a further 5 minutes, or until tender. Serve hot.

VATAKOLU CURRY

Ridged gourd curry

SERVES: 6

These ridged gourds have a very sweet and delicate flavour and are sometimes sold at farmers’ markets or in Asian grocery stores. They are generally around 45 cm long, tapered at one end with very clearly delineated straight ridges along their length. They should not be confused with the lumpy-ridged, shiny-skinned bitter gourd.

500 g ridged gourd

2 tablespoons oil

8 curry leaves

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground chilli powder (optional)

375 ml (1½ cups) coconut milk

1 teaspoon salt

Peel the gourd — a potato peeler is useful for removing the sharp ridges — and cut into slices widthways.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat and cook the curry leaves, onion and chilli until the onions are golden. Add the ground spices and stir for a few seconds, then add the gourd and cook for 10 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the coconut milk and salt and bring to the boil, stirring occasionally, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the gourd is tender. Don’t cover the pan, as this might cause the coconut milk to curdle.

SAPATTU MAL CURRY

Hibiscus curry

SERVES: 6

The single red hibiscus is used in sambols, curries and as a refreshing drink — it is said to have the effect of purifying the blood.

12 single red hibiscus flowers (Hibiscus rosa sinensìs)

150 g (1 cup) plain flour

1 pinch of salt

1 egg, beaten

oil, for frying

Curry

1 tablespoon oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

1 cinnamon stick

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

2 teaspoons vinegar or lemon juice

Wash the flowers, shake off all the water or blot with paper towel. Pick off the calyx and the stamen. Sift the flour and salt together and add the egg and just enough water to make a smooth batter.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Dip each flower first in the batter, shaking off any excess, then gently lower into the hot oil and deep-fry until golden. Drain on paper towel and set aside.

To make the curry, heat the oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and chilli and cook until golden brown. Add the turmeric and stir for 1 minute, then add the Maldive fish, cinnamon stick and thin coconut milk; season with salt, to taste. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and add the hibiscus flowers. Simmer over low heat for 5 minutes, then add the thick coconut milk and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vinegar; serve hot.

PARIPOO

Lentils, Sri Lankan-style

SERVES: 6

410 g (2 cups) red lentils

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

1 dried red chilli, chopped

2 teaspoons pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

6 curry leaves

2 onions, thinly sliced

20 cm piece pandanus leaf

1 cinnamon stick

1 stem lemongrass or 1 strip lemon zest

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

Wash the lentils well, removing any that float to the surface, then drain. Place in a saucepan with the thin coconut milk, chilli, Maldive fish and turmeric. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the lentils are just tender.

Heat the ghee in a separate saucepan over low heat. Add the curry leaves, onion, pandanus leaf, cinnamon stick and lemongrass and cook until the onion is brown. Remove half of the onion to a plate to use as a garnish. Add the remaining onion to the lentil mixture with the thick coconut milk and stir to combine. Season with salt, to taste, and simmer until the lentils are very soft and the consistency of runny porridge. Serve with rice and curries.

FRIKKADELS

Dutch forcemeat balls

MAKES: ABOUT 40

1 tablespoon butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

500 g minced (ground) beef

30 g (½ cup) fresh breadcrumbs

1½ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce or lemon juice

1 egg, beaten

dry breadcrumbs, for coating

oil or ghee, for deep-frying

Heat the butter in a small frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until it is soft. Cool slightly and place in a bowl along with the minced beef, breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, dill, cinnamon, cloves, garlic, ginger and Worcestershire sauce. Use your hands to combine thoroughly.

Shape the mince mixture into small balls with a 2.5 cm diameter. Put the egg in one bowl and the dry breadcrumbs in a shallow dish. Dip each meatball first into the egg and then roll in the dry breadcrumbs to coat, shaking off any excess.

Heat the oil in a deep-fryer or large heavy-based frying pan and deep-fry the balls until golden brown. Drain on paper towel before serving as an accompaniment.

BOMBILI MIRISATA

Bombay duck chilli fry

SERVES: 4

125 ml (½ cup) oil

6 Bombay duck (glossary), cut into 5 cm lengths

2 onions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 dried red chillies, seeded and chopped

lemon juice, to taste

Heat the oil in a small saucepan and cook the Bombay duck until crisp. Drain on paper towel.

Pour off half the oil from the pan and cook the onion and garlic until golden. Add the chilli and cook for 2–3 minutes, then return the Bombay duck to the pan and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the lemon juice and salt, to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.

PRAWN BLACAN

SERVES: 18–20

This is an essential accompaniment to lampries, the festive meal wrapped in banana leaves.

250 g (1 cup) dried prawn powder

45 g (½ cup) desiccated coconut

2 teaspoons chilli powder, or to taste

2 onions, chopped

5 garlic cloves, sliced

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

170 ml (⅔ cup) lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Heat the prawn powder in a dry frying pan over low heat for a few minutes, stirring. Remove to a plate. Put the desiccated coconut in the same pan and heat, stirring, until a rich chestnut brown colour. Remove to a plate. Put the remaining ingredients into a food processor and process until smooth. Add the prawn powder and coconut and process to combine, adding a little water if needed to bind the ingredients. Place in a plate and shape into a round, flat cake. Serve with rice and curries.

ABBA

Country mustard

This mustard should be made with tiny black or brown mustard seeds. It is used in Sri Lanka for serving as an accompaniment to meats, for spreading on sandwiches, or for adding to certain stews or curries. Leftover turkey is made into a rich stew and a good spoonful of this mustard is added, with perhaps some chilli thrown in for good measure, and it is then very aptly called ‘turkey devil’! It is amazingly similar to the French mustard sold in pots.

80 g (½ cup) black mustard seeds

white, malt or red wine vinegar

1 garlic clove (optional)

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 teaspoons sugar

Put the mustard seeds into a glass or earthenware bowl and pour over just enough vinegar to cover. Let stand for 15 minutes.

Put the mustard seeds and vinegar into a food processor with the garlic, if using, and ginger and process until the seeds are pulverised. Add the sugar and some salt, to taste. Store in a sterilised airtight jar. Kept in the refrigerator the mustard will keep for many months.

OGU RULOUNG

Scrambled eggs with flavourings

SERVES: 6

This is part of the traditional range of stringhopper accompaniments. If stringhoppers aren’t available, try it with the mock stringhopper pilau.

8 large eggs

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons ghee or oil

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon dried curry leaves, crushed or 1 tablespoon fresh curry leaves, chopped

Beat the eggs lightly with 2 tablespoons water. Stir in the dill, salt and pepper.

Heat the ghee in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the spring onion and cook until pale golden, then add the curry leaves and cook for a further 1 minute. Add the egg and cook over low heat, stirring, until the egg begins to set — do not cook until dry; the eggs should be moist and creamy.

THAMBUNG HODHI

Sour soup

SERVES: 4

2 tablespoons ground coriander

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 dried red chilli (optional)

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

8 curry leaves

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

1 onion, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole

Dry-fry the coriander, cumin, chilli, if using, peppercorns and curry leaves in a saucepan over medium heat, shaking the pan or stirring constantly, until the spices are aromatic. Add 1.25 litres (5 cups) hot water, the tamarind, onion and garlic and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the onion and garlic are soft. Serve in small bowls for sipping between mouthfuls of rice.

KIRI HODHI

Coconut milk gravy

SERVES: 6

Serve as an accompaniment to be spooned over rice or sipped between mouthfuls of rice and curry. If a less rich result is required, substitute low-fat milk or water for part of the coconut milk.

1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds

1 large onion, finely chopped

12 curry leaves

1 cinnamon stick

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and split lengthways

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried fish) or dried prawn powder

625 ml (2½ cups) thin coconut milk

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

lemon juice, to taste

Wash the fenugreek seeds and soak in cold water for at least 30 minutes.

Put the fenugreek seeds into a saucepan with all of the remaining ingredients, except the thick coconut milk and lemon juice. Simmer over low heat until the onion has reduced to a pulp and the milk has been thickened by the fenugreek seeds. Stir well, then add the thick coconut milk and heat without boiling. Stir in the lemon juice and add more salt, if needed. Serve hot in small bowls.

Note: If a thicker soup is preferred, add a few slices of potato to the ingredients in the pan before simmering.

ABBA ACHCHARU

Mustard pickle

80 g (½ cup) black mustard seeds

750 ml (3 cups) white or malt vinegar

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

250 g red Asian shallots, peeled

12 fresh red or green chillies

180 g (1 cup) sliced unripe papaya (optional)

125 g (1 cup) sliced green beans

125 g (1 cup) cauliflower florets

100 g carrots, cut into thin matchsticks

1 bitter melon, seeded and cut into strips

6 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 teaspoons sugar

Put the mustard seeds in a bowl with just enough of the vinegar to cover and leave to soak overnight.

Put the remaining vinegar in a saucepan with the salt, turmeric and shallots and bring to the boil for 1 minute. Lift out the shallots with a slotted spoon, leave to drain and cool. Repeat with the chilli, papaya, beans, cauliflower and carrot — allowing extra time for the beans, cauliflower and carrot, which should be tender but still crisp to bite. Reserve the cooking vinegar. When all the vegetables are drained and cooled, put them into a sterilised airtight jar.

Put the mustard seeds and soaking liquid into a food processor with all the remaining ingredients and the reserved cooking vinegar and process to combine. Pour over the vegetables in the jar, adding more vinegar to cover the vegetables if needed. If the jar has a metal lid, cover with two layers of baking paper before sealing. This mustard pickle will keep for many months. To avoid spoiling, always use a clean dry spoon.

VAMBOTU PAHI

Eggplant pickle

2 teaspoons salt, plus extra to taste

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

2 large eggplants (aubergine), cut into 1 cm thick slices

oil, for frying

1 tablespoon black mustard seeds

125 ml (½ cup) vinegar

1 onion, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, sliced

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground fennel

125 g (½ cup) tamarind pulp

3 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

8 cm cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 teaspoons sugar

Rub the salt and turmeric over the eggplant slices and drain in a colander for at least 1 hour. Dry with paper towel.

Heat about 2.5 cm of the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan. Add the eggplant and cook until brown on both sides. Remove to a plate, reserving 125 ml (½ cup) of the oil in the pan.

Put the mustard seeds and vinegar in a food processor and process to a pulp. Add the onion, garlic and ginger, and process to make a smooth paste. Set aside.

Dry-fry the coriander, cumin and fennel in a small frying pan over low heat, shaking the pan or stirring, until toasted.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 185 ml (¾ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Heat the reserved oil and cook the mustard mixture for 5 minutes. Add the roasted spices, chilli, cinnamon stick, tamarind liquid and chilli powder, if using. Add the eggplant and any oil, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the sugar and add salt, to taste. Cool and store in sterilised airtight jars. The eggplant pickle will keep for many months. To avoid spoiling, always use a clean dry spoon.

THORA MALU MOJU

Fish pickle

SERVES: 8–10

500 g fish steaks, such as Spanish mackerel, cut into slices

salt

ground turmeric

250 ml (1 cup) oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 teaspoons black mustard seeds

250 ml (1 cup) vinegar

10 curry leaves

2 tablespoons ground coriander

1 tablespoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 teaspoon ground fennel (optional)

1 pandanus leaf (optional)

2 teaspoons chilli powder

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

Wipe the fish clean with damp paper towel and rub each steak with the salt and turmeric. Heat 125 ml (½ cup) of the oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the fish and cook until brown and crisp. Set aside on a plate.

Put the garlic, ginger, mustard seeds and 125 ml (½ cup) of the vinegar in a food processor and process to a smooth purée.

Heat the remaining oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the curry leaves, coriander, cumin, fenugreek seeds, fennel and pandanus leaf, if using, and cook, stirring until the spices are dark brown but do not allow them to burn. Add the chilli powder and turmeric and cook for a few seconds longer, then add the mustard mixture and stir-fry for a further 3 minutes. Add the remaining vinegar with the sugar and salt, bring to the boil, then add the fish. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Store in sterilised airtight jars for up to 1 month. To serve, heat 2 tablespoons of ghee or oil and fry the required amount of the fish pickle to heat through.

THORA MALU SIYAMBALA ACHCHARU

Seer fish pickle with tamarind

SERVES: 10–12

The popular seer fish of Sri Lanka and India is called Spanish mackerel in Australia. Any firm, dark-fleshed fish will be suitable.

500 g fish steaks, such as Spanish mackerel

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

125 g (½ cup) tamarind pulp

185 ml (¾ cup) vinegar

3 tablespoons ground coriander

1½ tablespoons ground cumin

3 teaspoons ground fennel

1 tablespoon chilli powder

sugar, to taste

Wipe the fish clean with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into large pieces, rub over with the salt and turmeric. Heat the oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the fish and cook until brown and crisp. Drain off the oil, leaving the fish in the pan and set aside.

Soak the tamarind pulp in the vinegar for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the vinegar, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Dry-fry the coriander, cumin and fennel separately in a frying pan over low heat, until aromatic and the colour darkens slightly. Remove to a plate when roasted.

Combine the tamarind liquid, roasted spices and chilli powder in a bowl. Return the fish in the pan to the heat and pour the spices over the fish, simmering for a few minutes. Add some salt and sugar, to taste. Remove from the heat and cool. Store in sterilised airtight jars for up to 1 month. Serve as an accompaniment with rice and curries.

DEHI ACHCHARU

Pickled lemons

thin-skinned lemons or limes

coarse salt

malt vinegar

Put whole lemons in a saucepan with enough water to cover and bring to the boil for 10 minutes, or until each lemon splits slightly. Remove from the heat, drain, and when cool enough to handle, stuff 1 tablespoon of salt into the split in each lemon, pressing it in well. Arrange the lemons in a sterilised widemouthed jar, pour over the vinegar to cover, seal tightly and leave for 6 months before using. The lemons will keep indefinitely and are an ingredient in beef smoore, lime and date chutney and lime oil pickle (right).

DEHILUNU

Salted limes or lemons

At my grandmother’s house there were always large stoneware jars of salted limes, steeped so long that the fruit were a translucent brown and the juice around them turned to clear amber jelly. When limes or lemons are in season it is a good idea to put down a couple of bottles of these salt-preserved fruit. They will keep indefinitely, and can be made into chutneys, pickles or simple curry accompaniments.

25–30 thin-skinned lemons or limes

rock salt

Wash and dry the fruit. Starting at the end opposite the stem, cut each lemon into quarters up to, but not through, the stem. Open the slits slightly and stuff each with about 1 tablespoon of salt. Put each into sterilised airtight jars as it is done — if possible use stone jars, or glass jars with plastic, not metal lids. Cover tightly and leave in the sun every day for three weeks, then store in the cupboard for 6 months, or longer.

DEHI ACHCHARU TEMPERADO

Lime oil pickle

MAKES: 2 CUPS

8 salted limes or lemons (opposite)

6 fresh red chillies

6 fresh green chillies

2 tablespoons black mustard seeds

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

2 teaspoons fennel seeds

2 teaspoons black cumin seeds

2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds

125 ml (½ cup) mustard oil or peanut oil

2 tablespoons sesame oil

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon asafoetida powder

1 stem lemongrass, bruised, or 2 strips lemon zest

1 cinnamon stick

125 ml (½ cup) vinegar

1 teaspoon chilli powder

Separate the limes into quarters and cut each quarter into three or four pieces. Remove the stems and seeds of the chillies and cut into halves or quarters, depending on their size.

In a dry frying pan, roast the mustard, cumin, fennel, black cumin and fenugreek seeds separately over medium heat, stirring constantly to prevent burning. When they smell aromatic remove to a plate to cool.

Heat the mustard oil and sesame oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until golden, then add the remaining ingredients, bring to the boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat, discard the cinnamon stick and lemongrass and allow to cool. Store in sterilised airtight jars for many months. To avoid spoiling, always use a clean dry spoon.

DEHI RATA INDI CHUTNEY

Lime and date chutney

20 large dried red chillies, stalks and seeds removed, chopped

1 tablespoon black mustard seeds

500 ml (2 cups) malt vinegar

20 garlic cloves, peeled

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

660 g (3 cups) white sugar

500 g dried dates, halved and stones removed

6–8 salted or pickled limes or lemons, thinly sliced

170 g (1 cup) sultanas

Put the chilli in a bowl with the mustard seeds and vinegar and leave to soak overnight.

Put the chilli and mustard seeds with the vinegar into a food processor. Add the garlic and ginger and process until smooth.

Put the chilli mixture and sugar into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the sauce thickens. Add the dates, lime and sultanas and bring back to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15–20 minutes. Pour into sterilised airtight jars. Will keep for 6 months or longer.

PIPINJA SAMBOLA

Cucumber sambol

MAKES: 2 CUPS

1 large or 2 small green cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced

1 teaspoon salt

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced

1 fresh green chilli, seeded and sliced

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Put the cucumber in a bowl, sprinkle with the salt and let stand for at least 30 minutes. Press out all the liquid and if too salty, rinse with cold water. Drain well. Mix with the remaining ingredients and serve as an accompaniment to a curry meal.

DEHI LUNU SAMBOLA

Salted lime sambol

MAKES: 4 CUPS

1 salted or pickled lime or lemon

2 tablespoons finely sliced red Asian shallots or onions

2 fresh red or green chillies, seeded and sliced

Cut the lime into small pieces and mix with the shallots and chillies in a small bowl. Serve with a rice and curry meal. A teaspoon of this is sufficient for a serving, as it is meant to be only a taste accent.

KALUPOL SAMBOLA

Roasted coconut sambol

MAKES: 2 CUPS

In Sri Lanka this is made with fresh coconut, roasted in the ashes of the fire until dark brown, then ground on a large stone, but this version is a lot easier to make.

90 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut

2 onions, finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice

Dry-fry the coconut in a heavy-based frying pan over low heat and stir constantly until it is a fairly deep chestnut brown, but be careful not to burn it. Spread onto a large plate to cool.

Combine all of the ingredients in a food processor and process to a smooth paste — it may be necessary to add a little more onion or lemon juice if the mixture is too dry.

Shape the sambol into a round flat cake and mark the top in a criss-cross pattern with a fork or the back of a knife. Serve with rice and curry.

BADHAPU LUNU SAMBOLA

Fried onion sambol

MAKES: 1–2 CUPS

125 ml (½ cup) oil

2 large onions, thinly sliced

6 dried red chillies, seeded and broken into pieces

2 tablespoons Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder

2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Heat the oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until it is soft. Add the chilli and Maldive fish, cover, and cook for 10–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the oil separates. Add the salt and lemon juice and cook for a further 3–4 minutes. Serve with rice and curries.

POL SAMBOLA

Coconut sambol

MAKES: 1–2 CUPS

90 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

2 teaspoons paprika

2 teaspoons Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried prawn powder (optional)

2 tablespoons lemon juice, or to taste

1 red onion, finely chopped

2–3 tablespoons hot milk

Combine the coconut, salt, chilli powder, paprika and Maldive fish, if using, in a bowl. Add the lemon juice, onion and milk and use your hands to mix everything together so that the coconut is evenly moistened. Pile into a small serving bowl.

Note: You can add 1–2 seeded and finely chopped fresh red or green chillies for a hotter version.

LUNU MIRIS SAMBOLA

Ground onion and chilli sambol

MAKES: 2 CUPS

This simple sambol is as basic to the food of Sri Lanka as salt and pepper to Western food. Very hot, very acid and distinctly salty, it is often the only accompaniment served with rice, boiled yams or sweet potato, or any of the starches that are staples of the native diet.

10 dried red chillies

1 tablespoon pounded Maldive fish (smoked dried tuna) or dried shrimp

1 small onion, chopped

lemon juice and salt, to taste

Remove the stalks from the chillies and, if a less hot result is preferred, shake out the seeds. Pound all the ingredients together using a mortar and pestle. It may be pulverised in a blender, but a wet result is not desirable — it should be more like a paste. Serve with rice or pittu.

KARAVILA SAMBOLA

Bitter gourd sambol

SERVES: 4–6

3 bitter gourds

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon salt

oil, for frying

1 brown onion, thinly sliced

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

lemon juice, to taste

Wash the bitter gourds and cut widthways into thin slices. Rub with the turmeric and salt.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the gourds and cook until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towel, then combine in a bowl with the onion and chillies. Season with lemon juice and more salt, if needed.

BADHAPU VAMBOTU SAMBOLA

Fried eggplant sambol

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

2 eggplants (aubergines), cut into 1 cm thick slices

oil, for frying

3 fresh red or green chillies, seeded and chopped

2 small onions, thinly sliced

60 ml (¼ cup) thick coconut milk

lemon juice, to taste

Rub the salt and turmeric over the eggplant and drain in a colander for at least 1 hour. Dry with paper towel.

Heat about 2.5 cm of the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the eggplant and cook until brown on both sides. Cool, and place in a bowl with the chilli, onion and coconut milk, then add a squeeze of lemon juice, to taste.

KOONEE SAMBOLA

Shrimp sambol

The dried shrimps, or ’koonee’, used in this delicious sambol are very small — no thicker than a piece of twine. They are sold in Asian grocery stores.

1 small onion, finely chopped

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and finely chopped

1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1½ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

3 tablespoons dried shrimp

135 g (1½ cups) freshly grated or desiccated coconut

Put all of the ingredients, except the coconut, into a saucepan. Add 125 ml (½ cup) water, cover, and simmer over low heat until the onion is soft. Add the coconut and toss, uncovered, until the coconut absorbs all of the liquid. Taste, and add extra salt and lemon juice if necessary. Serve with rice and curries.

SEENI SAMBOLA

Chilli sambol

MAKES: 2 CUPS

Chilli sambol is a popular accompaniment to rice and curry. Thanks to convenient tinned ‘prawns in spices’ (sold in Asian grocery stores) this simple chilli sambol can be prepared in a fraction of the time it takes to make the original and tastes just as good. Add more chilli powder if you prefer a hotter flavour.

125 ml (½ cup) oil

4 onions, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons chilli powder, or to taste

170 g tinned ‘prawns in spices’

2 tablespoons vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until soft — it is important to cook the onion slowly – the liquid in the onion must evaporate if the sambol is to keep well. When the onion is golden brown, add the chilli powder, ‘prawns in spices’ and vinegar. Stir thoroughly, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Uncover the pan and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until the liquid evaporates and the oil starts to separate. Season with salt, to taste. Remove from the heat, stir in the sugar and allow to cool. Spoon into a sterilised airtight jar and keep for up to 1 month. Use in small quantities.

MOONG ATA SAMBOLA

Bean sprout sambol

115 g (1 cup) fresh bean sprouts

3 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

1 small onion, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon grated fresh coconut or desiccated coconut

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon lemon juice, or to taste

Wash the bean sprouts thoroughly and drain well. Mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl and serve with rice and curries.

BOLO FOLHADO

Many-layered cake

SERVES: ABOUT 20

Curiously like a large, rich Danish pastry this is one of the most popular sweets handed down from the time the Portuguese ruled Sri Lanka. It is not made among the Sinhalese, but is very much prized by the descendants of the Dutch and Portuguese, the Burghers. Only a thin layer of filling is necessary between the layers of pastry.

Pastry

450 g (3 cups) plain flour

a pinch of salt

125 g butter

1 teaspoon fresh compressed yeast or

½ teaspoon dried yeast

185 ml (¾ cup) lukewarm milk

1 teaspoon sugar

2 egg yolks

1 egg, beaten

Filling

440 g (2 cups) sugar

375 g (2½ cups) raw cashews, finely chopped

1 tablespoon rosewater, or to taste

To make the pastry, sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Add one-quarter of the butter and use your fingertips to rub into the flour until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Make a well in the centre.

Dissolve the yeast in 60 ml (¼ cup) water, then add the milk, sugar and beaten egg yolks. Add to the flour, stirring well to make a soft dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead lightly until it is free from cracks – add a little more flour if it is too soft. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Roll out the dough to make a 60 x 20 cm rectangle and spread two-thirds of the surface with the remaining butter, leaving a border at the edges. Fold the unbuttered third to the centre and fold the last third over it. Turn the dough so the folds are face the right and left of you, then press with a rolling pin to seal the open ends and roll out again. Fold into thirds as before, wrap in plastic wrap and chill. Repeat the rolling and folding twice more. Chill the dough until firm between each rolling to keep the layers of butter from melting out.

Divide the dough into four equal portions, one just slightly larger than the other three. Roll out the smaller portions to make three circles with a 28 cm diameter, then roll the larger one to make a circle with a 30 cm diameter. Line a baking tray or tart tin with baking paper, put the largest circle of pastry on it. Re-roll any leftover pastry to make shapes to use for decoration.

To make the filling, put the sugar and 250 ml (1 cup) water into a large heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil. Boil for 5 minutes, or until a heavy syrup forms. Reduce the heat, stir in the cashews and simmer until the mixture thickens but is not stiff. Cool slightly, stir in the rosewater, then allow to cool completely.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (Gas 6). Spread one-third of the filling over the first circle of pastry, leaving a 2.5 cm border around the edge. Cover with a second circle of pastry and spread with another one-third of the filling as before. Place the third pastry on top and spread over the remaining filling, then top with the final pastry circle. Brush the border of the bottom layer with beaten egg, then fold it over the upper layers and flute around the edge, or press with a fork to seal. Decorate the top with the pastry trimmings. Brush over with the remaining egg and bake in the oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 170°C (Gas 3) and bake for a further 35–40 minutes or until browned. Remove from the heat and cool, then cut into thin wedges to serve.

THALA GULI

Sesame seed and palm sugar balls

MAKES: 20 BALLS

One of Sri Lanka’s best-known local sweetmeats, these are also sold on the road to Kandy, the ancient hill capital and favourite tourist resort, by villagers who also offer young coconuts for drinking.

145 g (1 cup) sesame seeds

250 g (1¾ cups) grated dark palm sugar (jaggery)

a generous pinch of salt

1 teaspoon sesame oil (optional), if needed

Grind the sesame seeds in a spice grinder until fine and powdery, or pound using a mortar and pestle, a little at a time, until the seeds are crushed and oily. As each batch is done, turn into a bowl.

Add the palm sugar and salt and use your hands to mix well — the heat of your hands and vigorous kneading will help to soften the palm sugar, and after a while the mixture will hold together. If this is taking too long, add the sesame oil until the mixture just holds its shape.

Take 1 teaspoon of the mixture at a time and roll into neat-sized balls. These may be arranged on a serving plate but traditionally they are wrapped in rectangular pieces of wax or baking paper that has been fringed at the ends. The paper is twisted on either side of the balls so each one looks like a miniature Christmas cracker. Serve at the end of a curry meal, or as a between-meal treat.

BREUDHER

MAKES: 2 LARGE CAKES

Originally a Dutch recipe, this rich yeast cake is traditionally served at Christmas and New Year.

315 g unsalted butter

315 g caster sugar

1 quantity basic bread dough

5 eggs

2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract

255 g (1½ cups) sultanas

Cream the butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add the dough in small pieces, beating well, until all of the dough has been incorporated.

Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla and sultanas until well combined.

Lightly grease two 2.5 litre kugelhopf or bundt tins. Divide the dough between the tins and leave in a warm, draught-free place for 30 minutes, or until almost doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 160°C (Gas 2–3). Bake the breudher for 30–35 minutes, or until well risen and golden brown on top. If the top starts to brown too soon, cover with foil and cook until a thin skewer inserted into the centre of the loaf comes out clean. Remove from the oven and cool in the tins for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. Serve the bread sliced, spread with unsalted butter and sprinkled with caster sugar or, if preferred, with thin slices of Dutch Edam cheese.

FOGUETE

Deep-fried pastry with sweet filling

MAKES: 24

This is one of the Portuguese recipes left by the one-time conquerors of Sri Lanka. The translation of foguete is ‘rocket’, because they look like miniature fireworks. Little hollow tubes of pastry are fried, cooled and filled with a sweet mixture. Very often they are dipped in a crystallising syrup to coat the pastry, which keeps them crisp for a few days, but also makes the overall effect very sweet. I prefer to fill them just before they are to be served and omit the crystallising process.

Metal canoli moulds are ideal for rolling the foguete, but otherwise use twelve 8 cm lengths of wooden dowelling, with a 2 cm diameter — you will need to grease them with butter before rolling the pastry over.

Pastry

300 g (2 cups) plain flour

a pinch of salt

60 g butter

2 eggs

2 egg yolks (egg whites reserved separately)

1 tablespoon icing sugar, plus extra for dusting

1 teaspoon natural vanilla extract

oil, for frying

Fillings

avocado fool (see note)

pineapple or melon jam

155 g (1 cup) chopped raw cashews mixed with 170 g (1 cup) chopped raisins

1 quantity bolo folhado filling

To make the pastry, sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Use your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Make a well in the centre.

In a separate bowl, beat together the eggs and egg yolks, add the icing sugar and vanilla extract and 2 tablespoons cold water — if eggs are very large the water may not be necessary. Add to the flour and mix well to make a firm pastry. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes, or until the pastry is smooth and shiny. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Divide the pastry into portions. Roll each portion out on a lightly floured work surface, as thinly as possible. Cut into lengths a little narrower than the canoli moulds, about 6 cm, and long enough to fit loosely around the moulds. Wet a thin strip at one end of each length with egg white and pinch both ends together around the mould to give a fluted effect. If the pastry is too loose, pinch it together on the opposite side to the join, making two fluted ridges, but don’t make it too tight a fit or it will be difficult to slip off the mould later.

Heat a little oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, drop in the tubes, a few at a time, and cook until pale golden. Remove from the oil and when cool enough to handle, gently slip the mould from the centre, return the tubes to the oil and continue cooking until golden brown. Drain on paper towel and cool completely. If not using immediately the tubes can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

Just before you are ready to serve, use a teaspoon or piping bag to fill the tubes with the filling of your choice, depending on its consistency. Dust with icing sugar and serve.

Note: Follow the instructions for making the avocado fool, but whip the cream and avocado after mashing with the sugar before piping into the pastry shells.

LOVE CAKE (1)

SERVES: 25

125 g butter, softened

250 g (1⅓ cups) coarse semolina

10 egg yolks

500 g (2¼ cups) caster sugar

185 g (1¼ cups) raw cashews, finely chopped

2 tablespoons rosewater

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 160°C (Gas 2–3). Lightly grease a 20 cm square cake tin and line with two layers of baking paper.

Mix together the butter and semolina until combined.

In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks and sugar until thick and creamy. Add the semolina mixture and beat until well combined. Add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Pour into the prepared tin and bake for about 50–60 minutes, or until the top is nicely browned and the cake is cooked through.

ALMOND PASTE

250 g (2½ cups) ground almonds

500 g (4 cups) icing sugar, sifted

1 small egg, beaten

1 tablespoon brandy

1 tablespoon sherry

½ teaspoon natural almond extract (optional)

1 egg white, beaten, for brushing

Mix together the ground almonds and icing sugar in a large bowl, add the combined egg, brandy, sherry and almond extract, if using, then knead until the mixture holds together. Roll out half the almond paste on a work surface dusted with icing sugar and cut to fit the top of the cake. Brush the traditional Christmas cake with egg white, then place the almond paste on top and press lightly with a rolling pin. Roll the remaining almond paste into a strip to fit around the side of the cake.

LOVE CAKE (2)

SERVES: 25

A very popular cake in Sri Lanka, though no one knows why it is called by this name. There are many recipes — some use butter while others do not; some insist that only egg yolks should be used and others include egg whites as well. This is my favourite version.

7 eggs, separated

500 g (2¼ cups) caster sugar

250 g (1⅓ cups) coarse semolina

375 g (2½ cups) raw cashews, finely chopped

2 tablespoons rosewater

2 tablespoons honey

½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon ground mace or freshly grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

½ teaspoon natural almond extract (optional)

Preheat the oven to 150°C (Gas 2). Lightly grease a 20 cm square cake tin and line with two layers of baking paper. Brush the paper with melted butter.

Beat together the egg yolks and caster sugar until light and creamy. Stir in the semolina, cashews, rosewater, honey, lemon zest, spices and almond extract, if using.

Beat the egg whites in a separate bowl until stiff peaks form. Fold into the cake batter then pour into the prepared tin. Bake for about 1 hour, or until the cake is golden on top and feels firm to the touch. If the cake starts to brown too quickly, cover the top with foil. Remove from the oven and leave in the tin to get quite cold before cutting. Do not attempt to turn out this cake — instead, cut into small squares and lift each one separately onto a serving plate.

BOLO DE COCO

Coconut cake

MAKES: ONE 25 CM SQUARE CAKE

In Sri Lanka, the moist, rich flesh of coconut fresh from the tree is grated, then ground finely on a stone slab. The resulting texture is much like finely ground almonds, but wetter. If you live in a country where fresh coconuts are available, use two medium-sized nuts. If, however, you can only obtain the desiccated variety, treat it in the way described below and you will still have a delicious coconut cake.

270 g (3 cups) desiccated coconut

4 eggs, separated

440 g (2 cups) sugar, plus 55 g (¼ cup), extra

320 g (2 cups) rice flour

150 g (1 cup) self-raising flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon rosewater

120 g (¾ cup) raw cashews or blanched almonds, finely chopped

Preheat the oven to 160°C (Gas 2–3). Line a 25 cm square cake tin with baking paper and grease the paper with melted butter.

Put 135 g (1½ cups) of the desiccated coconut and 375 ml (1½ cups) water into a food processor and process until the coconut is finely ground. Repeat with the remaining coconut and another 1½ cups of water.

Beat the eggs yolks, sugar and 2 tablespoons of the coconut mixture in the bowl of an electric mixer until light and creamy. Add the remaining coconut and beat well. Sift the combined flours, baking powder and ground spices into the mixture, then add the rosewater and cashews and mix well.

In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, add the extra sugar and beat again until thick and glossy. Fold into the coconut mixture until just combined. Pour into the prepared tin and bake for 1¼–1½ hours, or until risen and golden brown on top. A fine skewer inserted in the centre of the cake should come out clean. Half cool the cake in the tin, then turn out and cool completely on a wire rack. Cut into squares to serve.

AVOCADO FOOL

SERVES: 4–6

Before I came to Australia, believe it or not, I had never tried avocados in any other way than as a dessert. They grew plentifully in the tropical country I had lived in for most of my life, and when they were in season we indulged in the smooth, green fruit mashed with sweetened condensed milk. (Because there was no dairy industry in Sri Lanka, fresh cream was out of reach.) I looked up the only cookbook we used in Sri Lanka, ’The Ceylon Daily News Cookbook’, and sure enough, the recipe was for a dessert. No wonder I was stuck in a rut of thinking of avocados as a sweet. I have now learned to appreciate them in salads, but I could not overlook the way I had enjoyed them for many years, and this is why avocado fool is the only recipe for avocados in this book. I did modify it by using sugar and cream instead of sweetened condensed milk, but if truth be told, I do still enjoy it with condensed milk.

3 large ripe avocados

caster sugar, to taste

250 ml (1 cup) pouring cream

a dash of rum (optional)

Cut the avocados in half lengthways, remove the stones and reserve. Scoop the flesh from the shells into a bowl and mash smoothly with a fork. Add sugar, to taste, then stir in the cream and rum, if using. Place into a serving bowl, return the stones to the pulp (to stop the avocado from discolouring), then cover with plastic wrap (making sure it lies directly on the surface of the fruit) and refrigerate until chilled, about 3 hours.

Note: Extra whipped or sweetened cream may be piped over the top of the dessert and a few thin slices of avocado (sliced at the last moment) used for decoration.

TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS CAKE

MAKES: 1 CAKE

Many people have told me that after making this recipe they never use any other for a fruitcake. It is rich, dark and moist, fragrant with spice and laden with fruit. The semolina and ground nuts make its texture quite different from a cake made with flour.

250 g (1½ cups) raisins, chopped

385 g (2¼ cups) sultanas, chopped

250 g (1⅓ cups) mixed glacé fruit, such as pineapple, apricot and quince, chopped (avoid using fig)

260 g (1⅓ cups) chopped preserved ginger

500 g (1½ cups) chow chow preserves (glossary) (see note)

120 g (¾ cup) mixed peel, chopped

260 g (1¼ cups) glacé cherries, halved

260 g (1⅓ cups) raw cashews or blanched almonds, finely chopped

60 ml (¼ cup) brandy

375 g butter

500 g (2¼ cups) caster sugar

12 egg yolks (reserve 6 egg whites for this recipe)

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

1½ teaspoons ground cardamom

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ¾ teaspoon ground cloves

2 tablespoons natural vanilla extract

1 tablespoon natural almond extract

2 tablespoons rosewater, or to taste

1 tablespoon honey

250 g (1⅓ cups) fine semolina

6 egg whites

1 quantity almond paste, for icing (optional)

Line a 25 cm round or square cake tin with three layers of brown paper, then one layer of baking paper liberally brushed with melted butter. To insulate the tin even more, wrap the outside with a sheet of newspaper folded into three and secure it with kitchen string.

Combine the raisins, sultanas, mixed glacé fruit, preserved ginger, chow chow preserves, mixed peel, glacé cherries and cashews in a large bowl. Pour over the brandy, cover, and set aside. (This step can be done the day before, allowing the fruit more time to soak in the brandy, if desired.)

Preheat the oven to 130°C (Gas 1). Cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the lemon zest, spices, vanilla and almond extracts, rosewater and honey and mix well. Add the semolina and beat until well combined.

Transfer the mixture to a large bowl or pan and use your hands to mix in the fruit until thoroughly combined — it’s much easier than a spoon and professional pastry cooks do it this way.

In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then fold through the fruit mixture until just combined. Pour into the prepared cake tin and bake in the oven for 2¼–2½ hours, covering the cake with foil after the first hour to prevent over-browning. The cake will be very rich and moist when done. If you prefer a darker and drier result, bake for 4½–5 hours — it will not be dry, but certainly firmer than if you cook for a shorter time. Allow to cool completely, preferably overnight, then remove the paper and wrap the cake in foil. A tablespoon or two of brandy may be sprinkled over the cake just before wrapping. If desired, ice the cake with the almond paste. This cake can be stored in an airtight container for 1 year or longer.

Note: Chow chow preserves can be purchased at Asian grocery stores. If unavailable, substitute melon and ginger jam or ginger marmalade.

Variation: For a gluten-free version, omit the semolina and use a fine cornmeal, sold as ’dusting polenta’.

VATTALAPPAM

Spicy coconut custard

SERVES: 6–8

This rich custard, Malaysian in origin, is very popular in Sri Lanka. If dark palm sugar (jaggery) is not available, substitute with 110 g (½ cup) firmly packed dark brown sugar and 175 g (½ cup)maple syrup.

Coconut milk

180 g (2 cups) desiccated coconut

625 ml (2½ cups) milk

175 g (1 cup) finely chopped dark palm sugar (jaggery)

4 eggs, lightly beaten (it should not be frothy)

185 ml (¾ cup) evaporated milk

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground mace

a pinch of ground cloves

1 tablespoon rosewater

To make the coconut milk, put the coconut and milk in a saucepan and bring to the boil, then remove from the heat, cool slightly, then knead firmly with your hands for a few minutes and strain through a fine sieve, squeezing out as much liquid as possible. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 170°C (Gas 3). Put the palm sugar and 125 ml (½ cup) water in a saucepan over low heat and stir to dissolve the sugar. Allow to cool slightly, then add to the egg and stir to combine. (If you are using dark brown sugar and maple syrup, add them directly to the beaten eggs.) Add the coconut milk and stir well to combine. Strain through a fine sieve into a large jug, then add the evaporated milk, spices and rosewater.

Pour into six or eight 125 ml (½ cup) capacity ramekins or moulds. Place the ramekins in a deep baking dish and pour in enough water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake in the oven for 1¼ hours, or until set. Remove from the oven and allow to cool, then refrigerate for at least 6 hours, and serve chilled.

ALLA ALUWA

Potato halva

MAKES: ABOUT 18 PIECES

After a rich curry meal, serve this sweetmeat with black coffee.

330 g (1½ cups) sugar

375 ml (1½ cups) milk

400 g tin sweetened condensed milk

125 g ghee or butter

230 g (1 cup) mashed potato

2 tablespoons rosewater

150 g (1 cup) cashews, finely chopped (optional)

1 teaspoon ground cardamom (optional)

Put the sugar, milk, condensed milk and ghee into a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Stir constantly, until the mixture reaches soft-ball stage, or 116°C on a kitchen thermometer. (Alternatively, to test for soft-ball stage, drop a little of the mixture into a cup of ice-cold water. If it firms enough to be moulded into a soft ball, it has reached the required temperature.)

Remove from the heat, add the mashed potato and beat well until very smooth. Return to the heat and cook to soft-ball stage once more. Remove from the heat, stir in the rosewater, cashews and cardamom, if using, and mix well.

Pour into a well-buttered shallow dish or baking tin. Press lightly with a piece of buttered banana leaf or foil to smooth and flatten the surface. Allow to cool and set, then cut into diamond shapes or squares, to serve.

INDONESIA

From the air, the Indonesian archipelago is like a beautiful necklace of aquamarine, sapphire and emerald hues, strung between Australia and mainland Southeast Asia. Of its more than 13,000 islands, only half are large enough to have names and less than a thousand are populated, yet it includes some of the world’s largest islands and is home to more than 245 million people, making it the fourth most populous nation on earth.

On the ground it is green, green, green. The steamy heat of the lowlands and the lush growth suggest that one is in a giant greenhouse, a notion that holds true for all but the chilly mountain peaks and high volcanic craters that are the backbones of most of the major islands. Indonesia has, at various times, been in the thrall of animism, Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam. It has been influenced or conquered by the Chinese, the Indians, the Portuguese, the Dutch and the English. It had huge and magnificent temples centuries before Europe’s great gothic cathedrals were dreamed of. Its handcrafts and theatre – batik and the famed wayang kulit or ‘shadow plays’ – are as alive today as they were a thousand years ago.

This rich and varied history, coupled with many different traditions and languages, has inevitably produced a cuisine that is also rich and varied — and which offers much to the adventurous eater.

Indonesian food is, unquestionably, some of the most delicious in the world. There isn’t much subtlety about it, but what a great awakening for your taste buds! This doesn’t mean that every dish is hot or pungent, but there’s always a combination of sweet and sour and salty tastes; unexpectedly gentle sauces of coconut milk fragrant with lemongrass or other herbs; crisp textured accompaniments; hot sambals to be tasted in tiny quantities; all of which create an awareness that what you are eating is not just body fuel but an expression of culinary artistry.

One of the simplest, most unsophisticated Indonesian meals I have eaten was at an open-air restaurant in Jakarta. Near the entrance were tables laden with enormous piles of tender coconuts and spiky, strong-smelling durian; from beams in the little thatched shelter hung strings of purple mangosteens, mangoes, rambutan and other exotic fruit. At this restaurant the speciality was fish. And fish there were, all around. Paths wound between ponds well stocked with varieties of fish considered delicacies in Indonesia. The water was recirculated by means of fountains in the ponds. Pavilions open on all sides dotted the grounds and here one sat at bare tables. Before sitting down we chose our fish, pointing them out to the men who waded in, net in hand, to capture our dinner.

The meal, when it came, was extremely simple. There was a whole fish to each person; some had been deep-fried, others barbecued. To accompany the fish was a basket filled with steaming white rice. Each diner had a bowl of soup, very light and clear, but full of the unusual flavours of acid with tamarind and sweet with the natural sugars of vegetables like corn and pumpkin — this was for sipping between mouthfuls of food, not for downing as a first course. There was a salad of cucumber spears and other vegetables and fresh green leaves far more intriguing than lettuce; even tender papaya leaves were included. Each of us had a small stone dish of freshly ground chilli sambal with a stone pestle-like spoon resting in it. This was the dynamite that set the whole meal apart and assured us that we were dining in Indonesia. The fish was delightful — fried or barbecued, the flesh was moist and delicate, the small bones so crisply cooked that they crunched and melted. To take care of the big bones there were numerous friendly and well-fed cats (it was considered quite in order to throw the bones to the feline clientele).

To drink, we had young coconuts with the top cut off, a dash of orange-flavoured syrup and crushed ice added to the water inside. For dessert we were deluged with fresh greenskinned citrus fruits of amazing sweetness and a whole string of mangosteens – gentle pressure between the palms cracks open the thick purple shell to disclose a number of milky white segments like those in a mandarin, but with no covering membrane or little seeds. Their sweet-sour, slightly astringent, refreshing flavour makes you eat another and yet another until there is a tell-tale heap of purple shells before you.

Indonesian sweets are mostly made from glutinous rice, but don’t shrug them off with thoughts of rice pudding – there’s not the slightest resemblance. The rice might be steamed in tiny baskets woven of fresh leaves, sweetened with palm sugar, flavoured with fragrant leaves and flowers; or it might be ground and cooked with coconut milk to a smooth paste, flavoured and coloured and poured in unbelievably fine alternate layers of white and green or pink or yellow or chocolate.

SERVING AND EATING AN INDONESIAN MEAL

Whatever else is served, rice is always the foundation of an Indonesian meal. Cook your rice by the absorption method or by steaming; it has so much more flavour than rice cooked in water and drained, and it also has the correct texture and pearly appearance. With rice it is customary to serve a fish curry and a poultry or meat curry, or both; two or more vegetable dishes, one a sayur with lots of gravy, and at least one other vegetable, stir-fried, boiled or served as a salad. Accompaniments such as krupuk and chilli-based condiments are an integral part of the meal.

The word ‘sambal’ implies something fried with lots of chillies. It doesn’t only include high-powered condiments such as sambal ulek or sambal bajak, which are basically pastes of ground chilli and other seasonings; it can also mean one or more of several main dishes known as sambal sambalan — there are prawn sambals, chicken sambals, beef sambals – so you could accompany your rice with a generous helping of sambal cumi-cumi pedis and a tiny accent of sambal bajak.

Most popular Indonesian sambal pastes or condiments are available in Western countries. Making them involves handling large quantities of fresh chillies and this can be an unforgettable experience if one is in the least bit careless. I recommend buying these sambals in bottles. They are eaten or used in recipes in such tiny quantities that it is hardly worth the trouble to make them. Store bottles in the refrigerator after opening and use a dry spoon, and they’ll keep well. There are some recipes for those who find it impossible to buy the sambals.

Because Indonesian cookery never gets very far without fresh chillies, have disposable gloves ready and use them when handling any kind of chilli. If you do forget and touch the chillies, keep your hands away from your eyes, your face and delicate skin. Washing well with soap and water helps, but don’t be surprised if the more pungent chillies cause a tingling and burning sensation that goes on for hours. When planning an Indonesian meal the curries can be prepared a day or two before and refrigerated — they usually develop more flavour with keeping. Accompaniments can also be made earlier in the day and chilled, or heated up at the last minute if they are to be served hot. Soups and vegetables (sayur) can be made in advance too, but short-cook the dish so that the final re-heating will not result in the vegetables being overcooked.

For a rice meal set the table with a plate, dessert spoon, fork and a bowl for soup. Everything is put on the table at the same time except sweets or fruits. Rice is taken first and should be surrounded by small helpings of curries and other accompaniments, which are mixed with the rice either singly or in combination.

It is quite polite to eat an Indonesian meal with one’s fingers, as most Indonesians do, but practise without an audience first; there’s quite an art to doing it properly. Only the tips of the fingers of the right hand are used. When soups and sayur are part of the meal a spoon proves more convenient. Fingerbowls are provided, with slices of lemon or lime floating in hot water.

UTENSILS

The range of saucepans, knives and spoons already in the kitchen will do very well for cooking Indonesian food, but there is one pan that will make things a lot easier. This is the curved metal pan with a shallow bowl-like shape known to most of us as a wok, but called a kuali or wajan. Woks are readily available and are inexpensive (see information on the wok). In most Indonesian kitchens, grinding stones are part of the essential equipment, as is a stone mortar and pestle. You can buy a mortar and pestle for pounding small amounts of spices, or invest in an electric spice grinder. To substitute for the grinding stone you need a powerful blender. I would stress that some do a better job than others. Mine has a glass goblet, a powerful motor and a shape that will effectively blend small quantities as well as large. I use it all the time for grinding spices, pulverising onions, chillies, garlic and ginger, making coconut milk and a number of other tasks.

In Asian kitchens you will find a special implement for grating fresh coconut, but rather than try to grate the coconut with an ordinary grater, peel away the dark brown outer skin and pulverise the coconut in a food processor or blender. Frozen grated coconut is available from Indian grocery stores.

On the subject of graters, I have often recommended using grated ginger or garlic. This is because it is the nearest you can come to the ground ingredient and because most blenders need more than a couple of cloves of garlic or a fragment of ginger to work on — but please choose the right grater surface – not the one for grating cheese or the larger shredder, but the small version of the shredder. This gives a very satisfactory result.

YOUR INDONESIAN SHELF

This is a list of spices, sauces, sambals and other flavourings which are often used in Indonesian cooking and good to have on hand to make the recipes in this chapter.

candlenuts or brazil nuts

coconut cream and milk

coconut, desiccated or freshly grated

coriander, ground

cumin, ground

curry leaves

daun salam leaves (glossary)

dried shrimp

dried shrimp paste

galangal, fresh or brined

glutinous rice (ketan)

kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce) or use dark soy sauce

kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

laos (dried galangal) powder

palm sugar, or use soft or dark brown sugar

pandanus leaves (glossary)

peanut oil

salted soy beans (taucheo) (glossary)

sambal bajak

sambal ulek

sereh powder (dried ground lemongrass)

sesame oil

shrimp sauce

soy sauce

tamarind pulp

turmeric, ground

Note: Though fresh galangal may look similar to ginger, this rhizome is infinitely harder to cut. Sliced, it adds flavour simply by simmering in soups and sauces, but for a curry paste, the rhizome will need to be peeled and finely chopped before grinding with a mortar and pestle with other ingredients. If you do not have access to the fresh root, sliced galangal in brine is the next best option. Otherwise, use the dry ground spice, known as laos powder. It will imbue the food with the correct flavour note, though perhaps with a little less of the lively zing delivered by the fresh rhizome.

NASI PUTIH

White rice

SERVES: 6

500 g (2¼ cups) short-grain rice

2 teaspoons salt (optional)

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Put the rice into a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Add 625 ml (2½ cups) water and the salt, if using, and bring to the boil. As soon as it comes to the boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and allow to steam for 15 minutes. This gives a very firm rice, which can be eaten hot or allowed to get cold and used for nasi goreng.

(Though firm, rice will be cooked through if the lid is put on as soon as the rice comes to the boil, and if the lid fits well enough to hold the steam in. It is also possible to bring water and salt to the boil, add the rice and when it returns to the boil, cover and steam as before.) A most important point when cooking rice is that the lid should not be lifted during cooking time, as valuable steam is lost and can affect the result. Also, rice is never stirred during cooking.

If a slightly softer result is preferred (but with each grain separate and not mushy) increase the water to 750 ml (3 cups).

Variation: For long-grain rice, use 1 litre (4 cups) water to 500 g (2½ cups) rice, for the absorption rate is almost double that of shortor medium-grain rice. Use the same method of cooking, bringing rice and water to the boil and then covering and reducing the heat so that it cooks very gently. Increase the cooking time to 20 minutes after the rice comes to the boil.

NASI UDUK

Rice cooked in coconut milk with spices

SERVES: 6

500 g (2½ cups) long-grain rice

1.125 litres (4½ cups) thin coconut milk

2½ teaspoons salt

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons ground coriander

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

¼ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

1 stem lemongrass or 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Put all of the ingredients, except the rice, into a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, and bring slowly to the boil, stirring frequently. Add the rice, stir and bring back to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and steam for 20 minutes.

Uncover, use a fork to lightly pull the rice from the side of the pan, mixing in any coconut milk that has not been absorbed, then replace the lid and steam for 5 minutes further. Serve hot with ayam goreng jawa and sambals.

NASI GURIH

Fragrant rice

SERVES: 6

500 g (2½ cups) long-grain rice

1.125 litres (4½ cups) coconut milk

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 stem lemongrass or 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg or ground mace

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

6 daun salam leaves (glossary)

2½ teaspoons salt

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Put all of the ingredients, except the rice, into a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, and bring slowly to the boil, stirring frequently. Add the rice, stir and bring back to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and steam for 20 minutes.

Uncover, use a fork to lightly pull the rice from the side of the pan, mixing in any coconut milk that has not been absorbed, then replace the lid and steam for 5 minutes further. Serve hot with fried chicken or curries and hot sambals.

NASI GORENG

Fried rice

SERVES: 6–8

3 eggs salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

oil, for frying

2 onions, chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

250 g raw small prawns, peeled and deveined

500 g pork or lean beef steak, thinly sliced

740 g (4 cups) cold cooked rice

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

3 tablespoons fried onion flakes, to garnish

1 Lebanese (short) cucumber, thinly sliced, to garnish

Beat the eggs in a bowl; season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Heat a little of the oil in a frying pan over low heat. Pour in half of the egg to make an omelette, then remove to a plate to cool; do not fold the omelette. Repeat with the remaining egg. When cool, put one omelette on top of the other, roll up and cut into thin strips. Set aside.

Put the onion, garlic and shrimp paste in a food processor and process to make a paste. Alternatively, finely chop the onion and crush the garlic. Dissolve the shrimp paste in a little hot water and combine with the onion and garlic.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion mixture and cook until aromatic. Add the prawns and pork and stir-fry until cooked through. Add another 2 tablespoons of the oil and when hot, stir in the cooked rice and spring onion, tossing until well combined and very hot. Add the soy sauce and mix well to combine.

Serve the fried rice garnished with strips of omelette, the onion flakes and cucumber.

MIE GORENG

Fried noodles

SERVES: 4

250 g fresh or dried fine egg noodles

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 large pork chop, trimmed of fat and diced

250 g raw small prawns, peeled and deveined

2 celery sticks, thinly sliced

1 small wedge of cabbage, finely shredded

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1–2 tablespoons light soy sauce

fried onion flakes (optional), to garnish

4 spring onions, thinly sliced, to garnish

1 Lebanese (short) cucumber, thinly sliced, to garnish

Soak the noodles in hot water and drain. Cook the noodles in a saucepan of boiling water until tender, then refresh immediately under cold running water and drain well.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and chilli and stir-fry until the onion is soft and starts to turn golden. Add the shrimp paste, pork and prawns and stir-fry until cooked through. Add the celery, cabbage, salt and pepper and stir-fry for a further 1–2 minutes, or until just tender — the vegetables should still be crisp.

Add the noodles and keep tossing the mixture so that every part of it gets heated through. Add the soy sauce, to taste. Pile into a serving dish and sprinkle over the onion flakes, if using, spring onion and cucumber. Serve hot.

NASI KUNING LENGKAP

Festive yellow rice

SERVES 8–10

1 kg (5 cups) long-grain rice

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

2 large onions, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 litres (8 cups) coconut milk

1 tablespoon salt

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

6 dried daun salam leaves (glossary) or 2 pandanus leaves

banana leaves or bamboo leaves, to serve

Indonesian marbled eggs, peeled and halved, to garnish

2 Lebanese (short) cucumbers, thinly sliced

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and thinly sliced

3 fresh green chillies, seeded and thinly sliced

Accompaniments

Javanese-style fried chicken

fried prawn sambal

meat and coconut patties

crisp spiced coconut with peanuts

vegetable pickle

prawn crisps

peanut wafers

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid over low heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion is soft and golden. Add the rice and cook for 1–2 minutes, then add the coconut milk, salt, turmeric and daun salam leaves. Bring to the boil, stirring with a wooden spoon. As soon as the liquid starts to boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and steam for 20 minutes. Uncover, use a fork to quickly stir in any coconut milk from the edge of the pan, then replace the lid and continue cooking over low heat for a further 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, uncover, and allow to cool slightly. Remove the daun salam leaves and gently fork the rice onto a large platter or a tray lined with well-washed banana or bamboo leaves. Shape into a cone, pressing firmly — you can use pieces of greased banana leaf or foil to do this. Arrange the marbled eggs, cucumber and chilli around the base and serve with the accompaniments as listed opposite.

Note: For a traditional decorative effect, make a flower with one of the red chillies. To do this, scrape out the seeds with the point of a sharp knife, then cut off the stem end and make several slits from 2.5 cm above the tip to the stem end. Drop into iced water and the strips will curl. Put this on top of the cone, scatter the sliced chillies around the side of the cone, and put the sliced cucumbers and marbled eggs around the base of the cone.

PERGEDEL JAGUNG

Corn fritters

MAKES: 12–14

75 g (½ cup) plain flour

80 g (½ cup) ground rice

¼ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder (optional)

1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

1 egg, beaten

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste (optional)

a squeeze of lemon juice

500 g (2½ cups) corn kernels

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, crushed with a pinch of salt

1 celery stick, diced

oil, for frying

Sift the flour, ground rice and baking powder into a bowl and add the salt, coriander, cumin, laos powder and chilli powder, if using.

In a separate bowl, mix together the egg, shrimp paste, if using, lemon juice and 250 ml (1 cup) water. Add to the flour mixture, beating until smooth. Stir in the corn, onion, garlic and celery until well combined.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Drop 1 large tablespoon of the mixture at a time into the hot oil, spreading it with the back of the spoon to make a circle shape with a 7.5 cm diameter. Cook until the fritter is golden brown on one side, then turn and cook the other side until golden. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towel placed on a wire rack — this will keep the fritters crisp. Repeat until all the mixture is cooked, then serve hot.

Note: Without the chilli powder and shrimp paste the fritters are milder in flavour, but if you like a little excitement in the flavouring add them. Ground rice adds crispness.

REMPEYEK UDANG

Prawn fritters

MAKES: 18–22

2 eggs, beaten

1 tablespoon rice flour

2 tablespoons ground rice

1 small garlic clove, crushed

¾ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

¼ teaspoon sereh powder (dried ground lemongrass) (optional)

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced

1 small onion, thinly sliced

250 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped

peanut oil, for deep-frying

Combine the egg, rice flour, ground rice, garlic, salt, pepper, kencur powder, sereh powder, if using, and 1 tablespoon water in a mixing bowl. Fold in the chilli, onion and prawn and stir well to combine.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Take 1 large tablespoon of the mixture at a time and lower it into the hot oil. Deep-fry the fritters, in batches, until golden brown on both sides. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towel placed on a wire rack — this will keep the fritters crisp. Repeat until all the mixture is cooked, then serve hot.

LEMPER

Rice rolls with spicy filling

Wrapping food in banana leaves is a very popular method of cooking and serving in Southeast Asia. Where banana leaves are available, prepare them by stripping the leaves from the thick middle rib with a sharp knife. Leaves will be inclined to split, but this doesn’t matter, as they will have to be cut into suitable sizes for serving anyway. Wash the leaves to remove any dust, then pour boiling water over them. This makes them pliable enough to fold without splitting. Ti leaves or bamboo leaves (from Chinese grocery stores) can be used instead of banana leaves, but heavy-duty foil does the job efficiently even if it isn’t as picturesque. These lempur are ideal for picnics or buffet parties.

500 g (2¼ cups) glutinous rice (ketan)

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

250 g minced (ground) pork or diced chicken

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

4 dried daun salam leaves (glossary)

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

a squeeze of lemon juice

banana leaf or aluminium foil

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Put the rice into a saucepan with 500 ml (2 cups) water and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and steam for 15 minutes.

Mix 185 ml (¾ cup) of the coconut milk with 125 ml (½ cup) water in a small saucepan and heat without boiling. Add to the rice, stir gently with a fork, cover and steam for a further 5–10 minutes, or until the coconut milk has been absorbed. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Season the pork with the salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a wok or heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and daun salam leaves and cook for 1 minute, then add the ground spices and shrimp paste and stir-fry for 1 minute, crushing the shrimp paste with a spoon. Add the pork and cook until the colour changes. Add the remaining coconut milk and simmer over low heat until well cooked and quite dry. Add the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Take a large tablespoonful of the rice and flatten on a piece of banana leaf. Put a good teaspoonful of the filling in the middle and mould the rice around it to make a cylindrical shape. Roll the banana leaf and secure with wooden toothpicks, or roll in the foil to make a neat parcel. These parcels can be heated over a barbecue or steamed for 15 minutes, then allowed to cool once again. Serve at room temperature as a snack.

PILUS

Fried sweet potato balls

MAKES: 20

500 g sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped

1 tablespoon chopped dark palm sugar

1–2 tablespoons ground rice

oil, for frying

Put the sweet potato into a saucepan with enough water to cover and bring to the boil. Cook until tender but not mushy. Drain well, then mash until quite smooth. Add the palm sugar and enough of the ground rice to make the mixture firm enough to mould.

Take 1 tablespoon of the mixture at a time and roll it into small balls, the size of a large marble.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the balls, in batches, until golden brown all over. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Serve plain or with sugar syrup and fresh grated coconut as a snack.

REMPEYEK KACANG

Peanut wafers

MAKES: 24

An accompaniment to rice and curries on festive occasions, these crisp and crunchy wafers are also delicious served by themselves as a snack or as an accompaniment to drinks. Toast the raw peanuts in a 180°C (Gas 4) oven for 30–35 minutes, and rub the skins off before using.

80 g (½ cup) rice flour

2 tablespoons ground rice

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger) powder (optional)

¾ teaspoon salt

250 ml (1 cup) coconut milk

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 small onion, finely chopped

125 g roasted, unsalted peanuts

oil, for frying

Sift the rice flour and ground rice into a bowl and add the coriander, cumin, turmeric, kencur powder, if using, and salt. Add the coconut milk and beat to make a smooth thin batter. Add the garlic, onion and peanuts and stir to combine. .

Pour the oil into a large frying to a depth of 1 cm. When the oil is hot, drop 1 tablespoon of the batter mixture into the oil at a time — the batter should be thin enough to spread into a lacy wafer. (If it holds together and has to be spread with the spoon, it is too thick, and must be thinned by adding a spoonful of coconut milk at a time until the correct consistency is obtained.) Cook the wafers until golden brown on one side, then turn over and cook until golden. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towel placed on a wire rack — this will keep the wafers crisp. Repeat with the remaining mixture until it is all cooked. Cool and store in an airtight container.

Variation: To make coconut wafers proceed as for peanut wafers (above), but omit the peanuts and add 65 g (¾ cup) freshly grated coconut or 90 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut.

KRUPUK UDANG

Prawn crisps

These come in various shapes, sizes and colours, but the most flavoursome are the large, salmon-pink variety roughly as long as the average hand and half as wide. They cost more than other types, but more than compensate because of their distinct prawn flavour. Made from a starch base and ground prawns, they need to be fried in deep hot oil to become light, crisp, crunchy and swell to more than double their original size.

Sometimes prawn crisps become damp due to climatic conditions, and do not puff as they should when fried. It is a good precaution to dry them out in a low oven for 10–15 minutes, spread out in a single layer on a baking sheet. Let them cool, then store in an airtight container. Or dry them out in the oven as required just before cooking.

oil, for frying

dried prawn crisp wafers

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the larger wafers one at a time, spooning oil over them as they cook — the oil should be hot enough to make them swell within 2–3 seconds of being dropped in. Test with a small piece first. If the oil is not the right temperature they will be tough and leathery, not crisp and melting. On the other hand if the oil is too hot they will brown too fast. A little practice will tell how hot the oil should be. Remove the wafers with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel (placed on a wire rack — this will keep the wafers crisp). Cool thoroughly before storing in an airtight container. Once cooked they will keep for up to 4 days.

TERUNG LODEH

Prawn and eggplant soup

SERVES: 4

1 tablespoon dried shrimp or 125 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

1 ripe tomato, peeled and chopped

4 dried daun salam leaves (glossary)

500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock

1 eggplant (aubergine), peeled and diced

250 ml (1 cup) coconut milk

½ teaspoon soft brown sugar (optional)

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

If using dried prawn, place it in a bowl with 125 ml (½ cup) hot water and leave to soak for 10 minutes.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic and chilli and cook until the onion is soft and golden. Add the tomato and daun salam leaves and cook for 5 minutes, mashing the tomato to a pulp. Add the stock and dried shrimp, if using, and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat. Add the eggplant and simmer for about 10–15 minutes, or until just tender. Add the coconut milk, fresh prawns and sugar, if using, and the salt and stir while heating through — the fresh prawns will turn opaque when cooked. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Serve with rice and curries.

SOTO AYAM (1)

Chicken soup (delicate)

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 teaspoons salt

3 whole black peppercorns

1 celery stick

1 small onion

2 slices fresh ginger, bruised

2 garlic cloves, bruised

60 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

175 g (1½ cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and chopped, to garnish

2 spring onions, thinly sliced, to garnish

Joint the chicken and put into a large saucepan with enough cold water to cover and add the salt, peppercorns, celery, onion, ginger and garlic. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 35–45 minutes. Cool, then strain into a bowl. Remove and discard the skin and bones from the chicken and finely chop the meat. Set aside.

Meanwhile, soak the cellophane noodles in hot water for 20 minutes and drain. Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions. Drain well and cut into short lengths.

Just before serving, put the chicken broth and meat into a clean saucepan over medium–high heat and add the noodles, stirring until warmed through; adjust the seasoning, to taste.

Put the bean sprouts into individual soup bowls and pour the boiling broth over the top. Garnish with the egg and spring onion and serve at once.

SOTO AYAM (2)

Chicken soup (very spicy)

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

3 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

3–4 sprigs celery leaves

2 onions, 1 left whole, 1 thinly sliced

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

10 dried daun salam leaves (glossary)

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ tablespoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground fennel

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

lemon juice, to taste

100 g dried fine egg noodles

Garnish

3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and chopped

6 garlic cloves, sliced and fried (see note)

8 spring onions, thinly sliced

fried onion flakes

fried dried chillies (see note)

crumbled potato crisps

sambal bajak or sambal ulek

Joint the chicken and put into a large saucepan with 2 litres (8 cups) water. Add the salt, peppercorns, celery leaves and the whole onion. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 35–40 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Cool, then strain and reserve the stock. Remove and discard the skin and bones from the chicken and finely chop the meat. Set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the sliced onion, chilli and daun salam leaves and cook until the onion is soft and starts to brown. Add the garlic, ginger and shrimp paste and stir-fry, crushing the shrimp paste with a spoon. Add all of the ground spices and fry for a few seconds longer. Add the strained stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice.

Soak the egg noodles in hot water, then drain and cook in boiling water until tender. Drain well and add to the soup with the chicken meat. Serve the soup hot, garnished with the egg, fried garlic, spring onion and fried onion flakes. Serve the dried chilli, potato crisps and sambal in separate bowls to be added to individual servings, according to taste. Sambals should be added in very small amounts and only by those who know what to expect and who like their soup fiery hot.

Note: To fry garlic, peel the cloves and cut into slices of equal thickness. Deep-fry in oil over low heat just until the garlic turns pale golden. Remove from the oil immediately and drain on paper towel — do not let the colour darken too much or the garlic will have a bitter taste. Dry chillies only need a few seconds of frying until done.

IKAN BALI

Balinese-style fish

SERVES: 6

1 kg fish steaks

peanut oil, for frying

2 onions, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1½ teaspoons sambal ulek

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder or 2 teaspoons grated fresh galangal

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped dark palm sugar

2 tablespoons kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

½ teaspoon salt

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving portions (see preparing whole fish).

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft. Add the garlic and ginger and stir over medium heat until golden brown. Add the sambal ulek, lemon zest, laos powder, lemon juice, palm sugar, kecap manis and salt and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Heat a little oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, fry the fish, in batches, until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towel. Serve with a little of the sauce spooned over the top.

TAUCO IKAN

Fish in brown bean sauce with stir-fried vegetables

SERVES: 6

750 g fish steaks, such as tuna, mackerel or jewfish

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

2 small onions, 1 finely chopped, 1 chopped into large pieces

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons salted soy beans (taucheo), drained

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste (optional)

6 banana chillies or 1 red capsicum (pepper), seeded and sliced

125 g (1 cup) sliced green beans

150 g (1 cup) sliced bamboo shoots

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving portions (see preparing whole fish). Season with salt.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Cook the fish on both sides until golden. Remove to a plate.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil and place the wok over medium heat. Add the finely chopped onion, ginger, garlic and salted soy beans and cook, stirring constantly, until the onion is soft. Add the shrimp paste, if using, and stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add the chilli and remaining onion and stir-fry for 1 minute further. Add the bamboo shoots, soy sauce and 170 ml (⅔ cup) water, stir well, cover, and simmer for 3 minutes. Return the fish to the pan and heat through. Serve with white rice.

Note: Instead of frying the fish in oil, you can add them to the pan after the water has been added and starts to simmer, then cover the pan and cook the fish for 6–8 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. In this case, only 2 tablespoons of oil will be necessary.

IKAN PANGGANG (1)

Fish grilled in banana leaves

SERVES: 4

4 small whole fish, cleaned and scaled (head left on) or 4 fish steaks

2 garlic cloves

3 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

125 ml (½ cup) dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

4 squares banana leaf and foil

2 lemons, thinly sliced

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. If using whole fish, rub salt over the body and make diagonal cuts on each side.

Crush the garlic with some of the palm sugar. Combine the garlic, palm sugar, chilli, soy sauce, lemon juice and kencur powder in a bowl and stir well to combine. Pour over the fish in a shallow non-reactive dish and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

Drain well, reserving the marinade. Place each fish (or each fish steak) on a square of banana leaf backed with a layer of foil. Pour one spoonful of the marinade inside and over the top of the fish. Put a few lemon slices on top, overlapping them slightly, and then wrap up the parcel to enclose the fish.

Cook the fish, seam side up, over glowing coals or under a preheated griller (broiler) for 10 minutes on each side, or until cooked through.

Meanwhile, put the remaining marinade in a saucepan over low heat and simmer for 2–3 minutes, adding more soy sauce and water if necessary.

Serve the fish in their parcels with the marinade sauce on the side. Serve with rice, vegetables and sambals.

IKAN PANGGANG (2)

Grilled fish with spices

SERVES: 6

500 g fish steaks, such as tuna

1 onion, roughly chopped

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and chopped or ½ teaspoon sambal ulek

1 garlic clove

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

½ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

1 teaspoon salt

375 ml (1½ cups) thick coconut milk

1 stem lemongrass, bruised, or 2 strips lemon zest

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

lemon juice, to taste

vegetable oil, for cooking

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Arrange the fish in a single layer in a glass dish.

Put the onion, chilli, garlic, shrimp paste, kencur powder and salt into a food processor with 125 ml (½ cup) of the coconut milk and process until smooth. Alternatively, grate the onion and thinly slice the garlic and use sambal or chilli powder in place of fresh chilli, stirring to combine. Crush the shrimp paste and stir to combine with the coconut milk.

Marinate the fish in the spice mixture for about 1 hour, turning once.

Preheat the griller (broiler) until hot and line a tray with foil. Shake off and reserve the excess marinade and place the fish on the prepared tray. Put the marinade into a small saucepan with the remaining coconut milk, lemongrass and basil and simmer over low heat, stirring frequently to prevent curdling. Add the lemon juice and some salt, to taste.

Meanwhile, brush the fish with the oil and cook until the fish is golden, then turn the fish, brush with a little more oil and cook until golden and cooked through. If the fish steaks are large, divide into serving pieces. Arrange on a serving platter with the sauce spooned over the top.

GULAI IKAN

Fish in coconut milk and spices

SERVES: 6

500 g fish steaks, such as tuna, mackerel or kingfish

juice of ½ lemon

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 onions, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, crushed

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or chilli powder

1 stem lemongrass, bruised, or 2 strips lemon zest

1 teaspoon salt

375 ml (1½ cups) thin coconut milk

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Rub the fish with a little salt and the lemon juice and set aside.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 80 ml (⅓ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Combine the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric, shrimp paste, sambal ulek, lemongrass, salt and thin coconut milk in a saucepan. Bring to simmering point and simmer until the onion is soft and the liquid has thickened. Add the fish, basil and tamarind liquid and simmer until the fish is cooked through. Add the thick coconut milk and heat through but do not boil, stirring so that the coconut milk does not curdle. Serve with white rice, vegetables and sambals.

IKAN PANGGANG PEDIS

Grilled fish with chillies

SERVES: 4–6

This very simple recipe was given to me by an Indonesian fish seller. If you like hot chillies as an accompaniment to fish, you will enjoy this dish. Buy the portion of fish just above the tail if possible, so that you avoid the stomach cavity.

1.5 kg whole tuna or Spanish mackerel, cleaned and scaled

sambal ulek or fresh red chillies, ground

salt and lemon juice, to taste (optional)

Put the fish a good distance above glowing coals or place under a preheated griller (broiler). Cook slowly until the skin is very brown and the fish is cooked through.

Serve the fish, in portions, with sambal ulek or fresh chillies pounded to a pulp using a mortar and pestle. If you do not want too much heat in the sauce, remove the seeds first. Add a little salt and lemon juice to the chilli, if desired, and take tiny dabs with the fish.

IKAN BANDENG

Baked fish

SERVES: 4–6

If you can get some large banana leaves to wrap the fish in, do so — they have a subtle and appetising aroma and look exotic when the dish is served at the table.

1.5 kg whole snapper or jewfish, cleaned and scaled

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

1 onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 tablespoon kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 teaspoon sambal ulek (optional)

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 squares banana leaf or foil, for wrapping

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

Preheat the oven to 180°C (Gas 4). Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Score the outside of the fish diagonally on each side.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, tamarind liquid, kecap manis, peanut oil, sambal ulek, if using, salt and turmeric into a food processor and process until smooth. Rub the spice mixture over the fish on both sides and put the remaining mixture inside the body cavity.

Arrange the banana leaves or foil in the base of a large baking dish and sit the fish on top. Sprinkle over the coriander leaves then fold the banana leaves over to enclose the fish. Secure with bamboo skewers.

Bake in the oven for 35–40 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through and the flesh flakes easily when tested with a fork. Transfer to a serving plate and open the banana leaves at the table.

IKAN BUMBU SANTAN

Fried fish with spicy coconut milk

SERVES: 4–6

2 x 500 g whole oily fish, such as mullet or mackerel, cleaned and scaled, heads removed

oil, for frying

2 onions, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3–4 fresh red chillies, ground, or 1 teaspoon sambal ulek

2 tablespoons salted soy beans (taucheo) drained and mashed (glossary)

1 teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar

250 ml (1 cup) coconut milk

a few sprigs fresh basil, to garnish

Butterfly the fish, lifting out the long bones that form the rib cage. Wipe the fish with paper towel dipped in coarse salt, cleaning away any black membrane.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and chilli and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the onion is soft and golden. Add the salted soy beans and cook for 2 minutes, then add the palm sugar and coconut milk and keep stirring while the mixture simmers and thickens. Keep warm.

Pour the oil into a large frying pan to a depth of 1 cm. When the oil is hot, cook one fish, skin side down, until brown, then turn and cook until cooked through. Drain on paper towel. Repeat with the other fish. Arrange both fish, skin side down, on a serving plate. Pour the warm sauce over, garnish with the basil and serve with rice.

IKAN KECAP

Fish in soy sauce

SERVES: 4

500 g fish steaks

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2–3 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped or 1 teaspoon sambal ulek

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

1 teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder or 2 teaspoons grated fresh galangal

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 tablespoons kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. If large, cut the fish steaks into halves or quarters.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Heat the peanut oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onion, chilli, garlic and ginger and cook for 5 minutes, or until the onion is soft and starts to colour, stirring occasionally. Add the pepper, kencur powder, laos powder and nutmeg and stir to combine.

Add the fish to the pan and cook for 2–3 minutes on each side, then add the tamarind liquid, kecap manis and palm sugar, cover, and simmer gently for 6–10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish, until just cooked through. Check after 5 minutes and if the liquid is drying up add 2 tablespoons hot water — the sauce should thicken but not cook away completely.

Serve the fish steaks with the sauce drizzled over the top and white rice, vegetable dishes and sambal to round off the meal.

IKAN KACANG

Fish with peanut sauce

SERVES: 4–6

500 g fish steaks

juice of 1 lemon

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 tablespoons peanut sauce

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

peanut oil, for frying

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Rub the lemon juice over the fish and season generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Allow to stand for 15 minutes, then pat dry with paper towel.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

In a bowl, place 1 tablespoon of the tamarind liquid. Add the soy sauce, peanut sauce and coconut milk and stir to combine.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the fish and cook on both sides until golden. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the oil, add the coconut sauce mixture, spoon over the fish and cook until heated through. Sprinkle over the coriander, cover, and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Serve with rice.

SATÉ UDANG

Skewered grilled prawns

SERVES: 4

60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

1 teaspoon sambal ulek

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 tablespoon kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

1 teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar

finely grated zest of 1 lemon

2 small garlic cloves, crushed with 1 teaspoon salt

750 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

vegetable oil

Soak bamboo skewers in cold water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Put the lemon juice, coconut milk, sambal ulek, shrimp paste, kecap manis, palm sugar, lemon zest and garlic crushed with the salt into a bowl and stir well until the sugar has dissolved. Add the prawns, stir and marinate for 15 minutes or longer. If leaving for longer than 1 hour, cover and refrigerate. Drain the prawns, reserving the marinade.

Thread 3 or 4 prawns onto each skewer and brush lightly with the oil. Grill over hot coals or under a preheated griller (broiler) until they are lightly browned.

Meanwhile, put the reserved marinade into a saucepan over low heat. Simmer briefly, stirring constantly until heated through — you may need to add a little more coconut milk or soy sauce, to taste. Serve the sauce on the side of the prawns.

SAMBAL GORENG UDANG

Fried prawns with coconut milk

SERVES: 4

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined (heads and shells reserved for stock)

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

6 daun salam leaves (glossary)

1 onion, finely chopped

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon sambal ulek

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder or 1 teaspoon grated fresh galangal

125 ml (½ cup) coconut cream

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar

To make the prawn stock, rinse the prawn heads and shells and drain well. Heat 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil in a saucepan and when very hot throw in the shells and heads. Stir-fry until they turn bright pink, then add 500 ml (2 cups) hot water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the liquid has reduced by half. Strain and reserve 125 ml (½ cup) stock.

Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the daun salam leaves, onion, chilli and garlic, and cook for 5 minutes, or until the onion is soft and golden. Add the sambal ulek and laos powder and cook for a few seconds, then add the prawns and stir-fry until they change colour. Stir in the stock, coconut cream, salt and palm sugar and simmer until the liquid thickens and the oil starts to separate. Serve the fried prawns as an accompaniment to rice and curries.

SAMBAL CUMI-CUMI PEDIS

Squid fried with chillies

SERVES: 6

250 g squid

4 large dried red chillies, chopped

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

1 small onion, roughly chopped

3 garlic cloves

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

½ teaspoon salt

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

12 red birdseye chillies, stalks removed

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

Clean each squid, removing the ink sac and discarding the head. Rinse the tubes under cold running water and rub to remove the skin. Drain well and cut the tubes into rings.

Soak the chillies in hot water for 20 minutes. Drain and reserve the soaking liquid.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Put the chillies into a food processor with the onion, garlic, shrimp paste and salt and process until smooth, adding a little of the liquid in which the chillies soaked if necessary.

Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the chilli mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until the colour changes to a dark brownish red. Add the squid, tamarind liquid and birdseye chillies and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 4–5 minutes. Stir in the palm sugar to combine. Serve hot with rice and curries.

Note: Birdseye chillies are the hottest of hot! Unless you know what to expect, don’t eat them. Do not crush them before cooking. Remember to warn your guests before they bite into a birdseye chilli.

GULAI CUMI-CUMI

Squid curry

SERVES: 6

500 g squid

1½ tablespoons tamarind pulp

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

435 ml (1¾ cups) coconut milk

4 candlenuts or brazil nuts, grated

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, thinly sliced, or 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar

Clean each squid, removing the ink sac and discarding the head. Rinse under cold running water and rub to remove the skin. Cut each squid tube into bite-sized pieces.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 80 ml (⅓ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, salt, chilli powder, shrimp paste, coconut milk, candlenuts and lemongrass into a saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring regularly. Allow to simmer until thickened. Add the squid and continue simmering for 5–6 minutes, then add the palm sugar and tamarind liquid, taste and add more salt if necessary. Serve hot with rice and vegetables.

OPOR AYAM

Chicken in coconut milk

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg chicken or chicken thighs and drumsticks

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon salt, plus extra to taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 candlenuts or brazil nuts, finely grated

3 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground fennel

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder or 2 teaspoons grated fresh galangal

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

2 onions, thinly sliced

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

6 daun salam leaves (glossary)

1 stem lemongrass, or 3 strips thinly peeled lemon zest

5 cm cinnamon stick

375 ml (1½ cups) thick coconut milk

1 tablespoon lemon juice

fried onion flakes, to garnish

Joint the chicken. In a small bowl, combine the garlic, salt, pepper, ginger, candlenuts, coriander, cumin, fennel and laos powder. Stir to make a paste, adding a little of the oil if necessary. Rub the paste all over the chicken pieces to coat and leave to marinate for 1 hour.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until golden brown. Drain the oil and remove the onion to a plate.

Add the remaining oil to the pan over medium heat. Add the spiced chicken and cook until it just starts to colour. Add the thin coconut milk, daun salam leaves, lemongrass and cinnamon stick. Stir until it comes to the boil, then cook for 30 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Add the thick coconut milk, stir thoroughly and cook for a further 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon juice and season with salt, to taste. Remove the whole spices, garnish with the fried onions and serve the chicken with rice, vegetables and sambals.

AYAM PANGGANG

Roast spiced chicken

SERVES: 4

Grilling over glowing coals is the best way to finish cooking this dish, but it can be roasted in the oven.

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 onion, roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves

½ teaspoon sambal ulek

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

125 ml (½ cup) water or coconut milk

Cut the chicken in half lengthways, or split it open down the breast and open it out flat.

Put the soy sauce, lemon juice, onion and garlic into a food processor and process until smooth. Alternatively you can finely grate the onion and garlic and mix with the soy sauce and lemon juice.

Add the sambal ulek, pepper and shrimp paste to the onion mixture and rub all over the chicken. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes or longer.

Put the water or coconut milk into a large frying pan or wok over medium heat. Cook the chicken, skin side up, for 10 minutes, then turn, reduce the heat to low and cook for a further 10 minutes. Baste with the marinade and juices in the pan.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 190°C (Gas 5). Transfer the chicken to a rack in a large roasting tin, skin side up, and pour in just enough water to come 1 cm up the side of the tin. Spoon the marinade over the chicken and roast for 30 minutes, or until the skin is crisp and brown. Turn and cook the other side for 20–25 minutes. Alternatively you can finish cooking the chicken over hot coals — position the rack 10–15 cm away from the heat so that the chicken can cook through before the skin gets too brown. Serve hot.

SINGGANG AYAM

Spiced grilled chicken

SERVES: 6–8

In this recipe, the chicken is split down the breast and flattened, then marinated and simmered in coconut milk, and finally barbecued or cooked under the griller. If you do not have a pan large enough to accommodate a spread-eagled chicken, then cut the bird in half.

1.5 kg whole chicken

1 large onion, roughly chopped

1 garlic clove

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped or 1½ teaspoons sambal ulek

2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, or 2 strips lemon zest

750 ml (3 cups) coconut milk

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1½ teaspoons salt

4 dried daun salam leaves (glossary)

2 lime or lemon leaves

Split the chicken down the backbone and press down to flatten out the breastbone.

Put the onion, garlic, chilli, ginger and lemon zest into a food processor with 2–3 tablespoons of the coconut milk and process to a smooth paste. Add the turmeric, pepper, coriander and salt and a spoonful more coconut milk if necessary and process again for a few seconds. Spread some of this spice paste over the chicken and let it marinate for 30 minutes.

Put the remaining spice mixture in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan with the daun salam leaves, lime leaves and remaining coconut milk and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly. Add the chicken and continue simmering, basting the chicken occasionally. Turn after 10 minutes and simmer until cooked through. Transfer the chicken to a roasting tin and cook over hot coals or under a preheated griller (broiler), a good distance away from the heat source, until the chicken is brown.

Meanwhile, continue to simmer the sauce until it is thick. Serve a little sauce over the chicken and the rest on the side.

AYAM GORENG JAWA

Javanese-style fried chicken

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg whole chicken

1 onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped, or 1 teaspoon sambal ulek

2 candlenuts or brazil nuts

1 tablespoon desiccated or grated fresh coconut

185 ml (¾ cup) coconut milk

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder (optional)

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons salt

1 stem lemongrass or 3 strips lemon zest

6 dried daun salam leaves (glossary)

oil, for deep-frying

Joint the chicken. If large, cut the breast into quarters and wings into halves.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, chilli, candlenuts, desiccated coconut and half of the coconut milk into a food processor and process until smooth.

Put the coconut mixture into a saucepan with the chicken pieces, remaining coconut milk, coriander, laos powder, if using, turmeric, salt, lemongrass and daun salam leaves. Bring to the boil, stirring, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the chicken is tender and the sauce is thick and almost dry.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the chicken, turning to brown evenly on all sides.

Serve the chicken pieces with white rice or nasi goreng and a sayur, or a curry with plenty of sauce.

AYAM GORENG ASAM

Piquant fried chicken

SERVES: 6–8

1.5 kg whole chicken

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

3 garlic cloves, crushed, with 1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

oil, for frying

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 80 ml (⅓ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

In a bowl, combine the garlic with the pepper, palm sugar, coriander, cumin, turmeric and tamarind liquid. Rub over the chicken pieces and leave for 1 hour, or cover and marinate in the refrigerator overnight. Drain on paper towel to remove any excess moisture before cooking.

Pour the oil into a large frying pan to a depth of 1 cm. Cook the chicken over medium heat for 2 minutes on each side, turning regularly until golden brown. Reduce the heat, cover, and cook for 10–12 minutes further, turning the chicken after 5 minutes. Drain on paper towel and serve warm.

AYAM PETIS

Chicken with shrimp sauce

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips lemon zest

2 teaspoons shrimp sauce or 1 tablespoon fish sauce

1½ teaspoons salt

375 ml (1½ cups) coconut milk

1 tablespoon chopped dark palm sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is soft. Add the chilli, turmeric, pepper, shrimp paste and laos powder and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the lemongrass, shrimp sauce, salt and chicken pieces and stir-fry over medium heat until the chicken is well coated.

Add the coconut milk and palm sugar to the pan and bring to simmering point, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat to low, and continue simmering for 30 minutes, or until the chicken is tender and the gravy has thickened. If the sauce is still not thick enough, remove the chicken pieces to a serving dish and reduce the sauce over high heat, stirring constantly. Add the lemon juice, pour the sauce over the chicken and serve with rice and sambals.

AYAM BALI

Balinese-style fried chicken

SERVES: 4

1 onion, roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

4 candlenuts or brazil nuts

1 tablespoon kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

125 ml (½ cup) peanut oil

1.25 kg chicken wings and drumsticks

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt

250 ml (1 cup) coconut milk

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, chilli, candlenuts and kecap manis into a food processor and process to a smooth paste.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Cook the chicken pieces until brown. Drain on paper towel.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the pan and cook the chilli mixture for a few minutes, stirring constantly. Add the palm sugar, lemon juice, salt and coconut milk and bring to the boil, stirring often. Reduce the heat to low, return the chicken to the pan and simmer for 25 minutes, or until the chicken is tender and the sauce has thickened. Serve with rice or fragrant rice, vegetables and other accompaniments

AYAM PANGGANG PEDIS

Grilled chicken with hot spices

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 teaspoons salt

3 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

3 teaspoons sambal ulek or ground fresh red chilli

2 tablespoons finely grated onion

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons peanut oil

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces. Use the tip of a sharp knife to score the skin and flesh to allow the flavours to penetrate.

Combine all of the remaining ingredients in a bowl and rub over the chicken to coat. Leave to marinate for 1 hour or cover and refrigerate for longer.

Preheat a griller (broiler) to high or prepare a barbecue and have the coals glowing hot. Cook the chicken at a good distance from the heat so that it is cooked right through before the skin gets too brown. Brush with the marinade or some extra oil and keep turning the chicken until brown on all sides — test for doneness by piercing the thigh joint with a sharp knife; when cooked the juice should be clear, not pink.

SATE AYAM

Chicken grilled on skewers

SERVES: 6

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped, or ½ teaspoon sambal ulek

2 onions, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1½ teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

2 tablespoons sesame oil, plus extra for brushing

2 tablespoons chopped dark palm sugar

750 g chicken breast or thigh fillets, cut into cubes

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

Soak 18 bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Put the chilli, onion, ginger, lemon juice, salt and soy sauces in a food processor and process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the sesame oil and palm sugar. Add the chicken and stir until each piece is well coated with the marinade. Leave to marinate for 1 hour or cover and refrigerate overnight. Drain the chicken and reserve the marinade.

Thread the chicken onto the skewers and grill over glowing coals or under a preheated griller (broiler), about 5 cm from the heat, for 5–8 minutes, or until the chicken is crisp and brown. Turn and brush with extra oil while cooking.

Put the reserved marinade into a small saucepan, add the thick coconut milk and simmer over low heat until smooth and thickened, stirring constantly. Pour into a small bowl and serve with the satay skewers.

SAMBAL GORENG TELUR

Eggs in chilli sauce

SERVES: 6

This is a very hot dish, intended as a sambal or accompaniment, and therefore half a hard-boiled egg per serving is sufficient.

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

3 teaspoons sambal ulek or chilli powder

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder or 1 teaspoon grated fresh galangal

3 candlenuts or brazil nuts, finely grated

½ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

125 ml (½ cup) coconut milk

lemon juice, to taste

3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan and cook the onion and garlic until the onion is soft and golden. Add the shrimp paste, sambal ulek, laos powder and candlenuts and cook for a few seconds, crushing the shrimp paste with a spoon. Add the salt, palm sugar, coconut milk and lemon juice and simmer gently, stirring constantly, until thick and oily in appearance.

Add the egg halves, spooning the sauce over them. Serve hot or at room temperature.

TAHU TELUR

Tofu omelettes

SERVES: 4

150 g fresh firm or soft tofu, diced or mashed

3 eggs, beaten

6 spring onions, thinly sliced, plus extra, to garnish

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

peanut oil, for frying

Sauce

1 tablespoon oil

1 small onion, very finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 firm ripe tomato, finely chopped

2 tablespoons kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

1 tablespoon sugar

To make the sauce, heat the oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is soft. Add the tomato and cook for 3–4 minutes, stirring until the tomato is cooked to a pulp. Add the kecap manis, sugar and 2 tablespoons water and bring to the boil briefly. This sauce can be made ahead of time and reheated before serving.

To make the omelettes, stir together the tofu, egg and spring onion in a bowl and season with the salt and pepper. Heat a little oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat and pour in one-quarter of the egg mixture to make a small round omelette no larger than saucer size. Repeat to make another three omelettes and keep warm.

To serve, pour some of the warm sauce over each omelette and garnish with the spring onion.

PINDAING TELUR

Eggs in soy sauce

SERVES: 4–6

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 small onion, thinly sliced

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 large ripe tomato, diced

1 tablespoon vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon chopped dark palm sugar

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

4–6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved

Heat the peanut oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, chilli, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is soft and starts to turn golden. Add the shrimp paste and cook, mashing with the back of a spoon. Add the tomato and cook, stirring, until the tomato has turned into a pulp. Add the vinegar, salt, palm sugar, soy sauce and 125 ml (½ cup) water, cover, and simmer until the sauce has thickened. Add the egg halves and continue to simmer until the egg has just heated through. Serve immediately.

SINGGANG DAGING

Beef spareribs special

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg beef spareribs, cut into short lengths

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

60 ml (¼ cup) kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

2 tablespoons dry sherry

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped dark palm sugar or honey

Rub the spareribs with the combined garlic, ginger and salt. Put all of the remaining ingredients, except the palm sugar, into a bowl. Add 125 ml (½ cup) water and stir to combine.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Cook the beef for 5–6 minutes, or until the ribs are browned. Pour the sauce over the ribs, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the meat on the ribs is very tender and the sauce has reduced. Uncover, stir in the palm sugar until it has dissolved, then serve hot.

The ribs can be roasted in a preheated 180°C (Gas 4) oven for a few minutes until further glazed and browned, if desired.

LAPIS DAGING SEMARANG

Semarang-style sliced beef

SERVES: 4

500 g thinly sliced lean topside, rump or round steaks

1 onion, roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

60 ml (¼ cup) kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

2 tablespoons chopped dark palm sugar

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

Beat out the steaks thinly using a meat mallet, taking care not to break through the slices.

Put the onion, garlic, pepper, kecap manis and palm sugar into a food processor and process until smooth. Transfer the onion mixture to a dish, add the steaks and leave to marinate for 1 hour or cover and refrigerate for longer. Drain the steaks, reserving the marinade.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Cook the steaks on both sides until brown. Add the reserved marinade and tomato and cook over medium heat for about 12 minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce has thickened and the meat is tender. Serve immediately.

ABON DAGING

Shredded crisp-fried meat

MAKES: 3 CUPS

This will be a curious preparation to those not familiar with Asian foods, but it is typical of the strongly flavoured dishes referred to colloquially as ‘rice pullers’. The chief ingredient might be fish, prawns or, as in this case, red meat. Thoroughly cooked and then fried until crisp, it can be bottled and kept for weeks to sprinkle over rice and make a meal more appetising. The first time I made abon daging I had spent the better part of an hour shredding the meat with a mallet, and then I realised it would have been much easier putting small amounts, about 2 tablespoons at a time, into a food processor. If processed for longer than 4–5 seconds at a time, the meat will turn into a paste, so be careful.

750 g lean topside or round steak

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

3 garlic cloves, crushed with

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon shrimp sauce or 1 tablespoon fish sauce

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

125 ml (½ cup) peanut oil

4 dried red chillies

4 tablespoons dried onion flakes

2 teaspoons dried garlic granules

Put the steak into a large saucepan with enough water to cover, add the salt and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1½–2 hours, or until the meat is so tender it will pull apart with a spoon. Remove from the cooking liquid (you can save it to use in a soup) and drain in a colander until dry and cool. Break up the meat into small pieces and use a meat mallet to pound it to very fine shreds or use a food processor as described opposite.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 125 ml (½ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Add the garlic, shrimp sauce, pepper, chilli powder, coriander and cumin. Add the meat and toss to coat.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Cook the whole dried chillies for a few seconds, then drain on paper towel, cool, then remove the stems and seeds and finely chop. Put the onion flakes in a wire strainer and lower into the oil for a few seconds, just until they turn golden. Drain on paper towel. In the same wire strainer fry the dried garlic for 2–3 seconds. Drain on paper towel and set aside to cool.

Add the meat to the oil in the wok and stir-fry for about 3–4 minutes, or until it is a rich brown. Drain and cool on paper towel. When the meat is quite cold sprinkle with a little extra salt, to taste, and toss through the chilli, onion and dried garlic. If liked, a teaspoon of sugar can be mixed in. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

DAGING MASAK BALI

Balinese-style beef strips

SERVES: 6

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

1 onion, roughly chopped

3 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

4–6 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

750 g blade steak, thinly sliced into strips

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Measure 2 tablespoons of the liquid and set aside.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, chilli and shrimp paste in a food processor and process until smooth.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the chilli mixture for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly, until it no longer sticks to the pan and the oil starts to separate. Add the beef and continue to stir-fry until it changes colour.

Add the tamarind liquid, soy sauce and 250 ml (1 cup) water to the wok, cover, and simmer gently until the beef is tender. Uncover and cook until the liquid has almost evaporated. Stir in the palm sugar and season with salt, to taste. Serve with boiled rice, vegetables and sambals.

DENDENG

Dried spiced meat

SERVES: 12

Prepared this way, meat can be kept for a long while without spoiling. Use raw meat or remember this recipe when you’ve roasted a big piece of meat and it has been disappointing and tough — this is a good way to use up the leftovers. Serve as an accompaniment to a meal of rice, vegetables and sambal.

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

100 ml peanut oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon shrimp sauce or ½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon sambal ulek

125 ml (½ cup) kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

1 kg round or topside steak, thinly sliced into strips

3 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

Preheat the oven to 120°C(Gas ½). Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Measure 2 tablespoons of the liquid and set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger, coriander, cumin and shrimp sauce and stir for 1–2 minutes, then add the salt, sambal ulek, kecap manis and tamarind liquid. Add the meat and stir to coat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 30–35 minutes, stirring often, until the liquid has almost evaporated. Add the palm sugar and stir well to dissolve.

Remove the pan from the heat and spread the meat in a baking dish in a single layer. Continue cooking in the oven for 30 minutes, then turn the meat and cook for a further 20–30 minutes, or until the meat is dark brown but not burnt, and the oil is visible at the edge of the pan. Cool and store in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

DENDENG RAGI

Dry-fried meat and coconut

SERVES: 6

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

90 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut

1 onion, grated

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or 2 fresh red chillies, finely chopped

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

500 g topside or round steak, thinly sliced into strips

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

Soak the tamarind pulp in 125 ml (½ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Add all of the remaining ingredients, except the steak and peanut oil, to the tamarind liquid. Add 60 ml (¼ cup) water and stir well to combine. Add the steak and toss to coat.

Put the meat and coconut mixture into a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Cover and cook until the meat changes colour. Uncover and continue to cook and stir the meat until all of the liquid has been absorbed and the meat is quite dry — take care that the coconut does not stick to the pan.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan. Transfer the beef to the wok and stir-fry until dark brown and crisp. Serve as an accompaniment with rice and vegetable dishes.

RENDANG GINJAL

Dry-fried kidney curry

SERVES: 6

750 g ox kidney, core removed and meat diced

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, crushed with 1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

2 onions, finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground fennel

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon chilli powder or 2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

3 candlenuts or brazil nuts, finely grated

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

1 small cinnamon stick

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

Rub the kidneys with the ginger and garlic and set aside. Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Measure 2 tablespoons of the liquid and set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it is soft and golden. Add the turmeric, coriander, cumin, fennel and pepper and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the chilli powder, candlenuts and kidneys, and continue to cook until the kidneys change colour. Add the coconut milk and cinnamon stick and simmer gently for 2 hours, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced and thickened. As the mixture thickens it will be necessary to stir more frequently. Add the tamarind liquid and palm sugar, stir well to combine, and cook for a few minutes longer. Serve hot.

RENDANG

Dry meat curry

SERVES: 8

2 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 onions, thinly sliced

1 kg beef or mutton, cut into large cubes

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

1 small cinnamon stick

4–5 whole cloves

3 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

½ teaspoon ground fennel

½ teaspoon ground kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

1 tablespoon desiccated coconut, toasted

1 litre (4 cups) thin coconut milk

2 teaspoons salt

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

Put the garlic, ginger and half of the onion into a food processor and process to a smooth purée, adding 2 tablespoons of thin coconut milk if needed. Transfer to a bowl, add the meat and toss to coat. Set aside.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the remaining onion, cinnamon stick and whole cloves, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and starts to turn golden. Add the meat and stir-fry until the meat changes colour. Add the ground spices, desiccated coconut, thin coconut milk and salt. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly, and boil for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the meat is almost tender. Add the tamarind liquid, stir well and simmer until the liquid has evaporated. Add the thick coconut milk, stirring constantly, and allow to simmer again until the oil starts to separate and the curry is very dry.

RENDANG DAGING

Dry-fried beef curry

SERVES: 8

It is worth making a large quantity of this because it keeps so well, developing more flavour each day.

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

2 onions, roughly chopped

6 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

6 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

2 teaspoons ground coriander

6 dried daun salam leaves (glossary)

1 stem lemongrass or 1 strip lemon zest

1 teaspoon grated fresh galangal

1.5 kg chuck, blade or round steak, thinly sliced into strips

2 teaspoons sugar

Soak the tamarind pulp in 125 ml (½ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, chilli and 125 ml (½ cup) of the coconut milk in a food processor and process until smooth. Pour into a large saucepan and add the remaining coconut milk. Add the salt, turmeric, chilli powder, if using, coriander, daun salam leaves, lemongrass and galangal and stir to combine. Add the meat and bring to the boil.

Reduce the heat to medium, add the tamarind liquid and simmer until the sauce has thickened, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to low and continue simmering for about 2½ hours, or until the sauce is almost dry, stirring frequently to ensure the mixture does not stick to the pan. When the oil starts to separate, add the sugar and stir to dissolve — allow the meat to cook in the oil until it is dark brown. Serve with white rice, one or two vegetable dishes, sambals and prawn crisps.

SEMUR DAGING

Beef cooked in soy sauce

SERVES: 4–6

Spicy, sweet and salty all at the same time, this simple recipe will be a favourite with children as well as adults.

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed with

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

500 g chuck or round steak, cut into 3 cm cubes

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

⅛ teaspoon ground cloves

60 ml (¼ cup) kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

1 tablespoon chopped dark palm sugar

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Measure 2 tablespoons of the liquid and set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until it is soft. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry until the onion starts to colour. Add the meat and stir-fry until it changes colour. Add the ground spices, kecap manis, palm sugar, tamarind liquid and 250 ml (1 cup) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1¼ hours, or until the meat is tender and the sauce has reduced. Serve with white rice and vegetables.

EMPAL JAWA

Beef in soy sauce and chillies

SERVES: 6

500 g topside, round or rump steak

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1½ teaspoons sambal ulek or 2 fresh red chillies, seeded and finely chopped

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder or 1 teaspoon grated fresh galangal

2 teaspoons finely grated lemongrass or 1 teaspoon finely chopped lemon zest

2 tablespoons kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

1 teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar

Put the meat into a saucepan with just enough water to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Allow the meat to cool to lukewarm in the broth. When cool enough to handle, slice the meat into thin strips, reserving 60 ml (¼ cup) of the broth.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until soft. Add the garlic, sambal ulek, shrimp paste, laos powder and lemongrass and cook until the onion turns golden, crushing the shrimp paste with the back of a spoon.

Increase the heat to medium, add the beef to the pan and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes. Add the kecap manis, palm sugar and reserved broth, reduce the heat to low and simmer until the liquid has almost evaporated and the oil starts to separate. Serve hot with rice and vegetable dishes.

ASAM BABI GORENG

Fried tamarind pork (Bali)

SERVES: 4–6

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

1 onion, roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or 2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

1 tablespoon oil

500 g pork spareribs, cut into short lengths

½ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

Soak the tamarind pulp in 80 ml (⅓ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, kecap manis and sambal ulek into a food processor and process until smooth.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the pork and cook, turning often, until brown all over. Reduce the heat to medium, pour off any excess fat, then add the onion mixture and stir-fry for 5 minutes. Add the tamarind liquid, salt and 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer 25–30 minutes. Add the palm sugar and cook uncovered, stirring regularly, until the sauce is dark and almost dry. Serve hot.

SATÉ BABI

Pork satay

SERVES: 6

1 onion, roughly chopped

1 garlic clove

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or 2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 kg pork fillet or boned pork loin, trimmed and cut into 2 cm cubes

Soak 18 bamboo skewers in cold water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, lemon juice, kecap manis, sambal ulek, salt and palm sugar into a food processor and process until smooth. Pour into a bowl, stir in the peanut oil, then add the pork and toss to coat. Leave to marinate for at least 1 hour or cover and refrigerate for longer.

Thread 5 or 6 pork cubes onto each skewer. Grill the skewers over hot coals or under a preheated griller (broiler) for 6–7 minutes on each side, or until the pork is brown on all sides. Do not put too close to the heat or the outside will brown before the pork is cooked through. Serve hot.

PERGEDEL GORENG JAWA

Javanese-style fried meatballs

MAKES: ABOUT 60–70 MEATBALLS

Freely adopted from Dutch frikkadels, with hot chillies and spices giving a local flavour, these meatballs can be served hot as a snack or cold as picnic fare.

500 g minced (ground) beef

2 onions, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed with 1 teaspoon salt

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and finely chopped or 1 teaspoon sambal ulek

500 g floury potatoes, boiled and mashed

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

3 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg or ground mace

1 egg, beaten

peanut oil, for deep-frying

Put the beef into a large bowl. Add the onion, garlic, chilli and mashed potato and use your hands to combine.

In a small bowl, dissolve the palm sugar and shrimp paste in the combined soy sauce and lemon juice, then stir in the coriander, cumin and nutmeg. Add to the minced meat with the egg and continue to mix all the ingredients together until well combined. Take small portions of the mixture at a time and shape into small balls. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the balls, in batches, for 3–4 minutes, turning regularly, until brown on all sides and cooked through. Drain on paper towel and serve.

REMPAH-REMPAH

Meat and coconut patties

MAKES: 30 FLAT PATTIES OR 60 SMALL BALLS

250 g (2¾ cups) desiccated coconut

500 g minced (ground) beef

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

2 garlic cloves, crushed with 1½ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

2 eggs, beaten

peanut oil, for deep-frying

Put the coconut into a bowl with 125 ml (½ cup) hot water and mix well until the coconut is moistened. Put into a large bowl with the beef.

Put the shrimp paste in a bowl and crush with the back of a spoon, then dissolve in 1 tablespoon hot water. Add the garlic, pepper, coriander, cumin, kencur powder and egg and mix well to combine. Pour over the meat and use your hands to mix all of the ingredients together until well combined. Shape into small patties or balls. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the balls, in batches, for 3–4 minutes, turning regularly, until brown on all sides and cooked through. Drain on paper towel and serve as an accompaniment to a rice dish or as a snack by themselves. Serve cold at picnics. The balls, if made small enough, are ideal to serve with drinks.

SATE KAMBING MADURA

Madurese-style lamb satay

SERVES: 4–6

1 teaspoon tamarind pulp

1 small onion, grated

2 garlic cloves, crushed with

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or 2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 tablespoon kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

2 tablespoons freshly grated coconut or use desiccated coconut moistened with 1 tablespoon hot water

500 g boneless leg of lamb, cut into small cubes

Soak 18 bamboo skewers in cold water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 1 tablespoon hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Add the onion, garlic, sambal ulek, shrimp paste, kecap manis and coconut, stirring well to combine. Add the lamb and toss to coat. Leave to marinate for 2 hours or cover and refrigerate for longer.

Thread some of the lamb onto each skewer. Grill the skewers over hot coals or under a preheated griller (broiler) for 6–7 minutes on each side, or until the lamb is cooked through and brown on all sides. Serve with rice and satay sauce (opposite).

SATE MANIS

Sweet satay

SERVES: 4–6

1 tablespoon chopped dark palm sugar

3 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

1 tablespoon oil

2 teaspoons ground cumin

750 g rump steak or pork fillet, cut into 2 cm cubes

Satay sauce

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

125 ml (½ cup) peanut sauce

2 teaspoons sambal bajak

Soak 18 bamboo skewers in cold water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

In a large shallow baking dish, combine the palm sugar, garlic, salt, kecap manis, oil and cumin and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Thread 4–5 pieces of meat onto each skewer and arrange the skewers in the marinade, turning to coat. Leave to marinate for 2 hours or cover and refrigerate for longer.

Meanwhile, make the satay sauce. Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

In a bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of the tamarind liquid with the peanut sauce, sambal bajak and 60 ml (¼ cup) water and stir to combine. Set aside until ready to serve.

Grill the skewers over hot coals or under a preheated griller (broiler) for 6–7 minutes on each side, or until the lamb is cooked through and brown on all sides. Serve hot with the satay sauce on the side.

SATÉ BUMBU

Spicy beef satay

SERVES: 4–5

Unlike most other satays with their small cubes of meat, this one features a long, thin, finely sliced strip of meat which is threaded on the skewers like a ruffled ribbon. After being briefly stir-fried in a marinade it is then cooked over coals or under a griller.

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

1 onion, roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder (optional)

½ teaspoon sambal ulek

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

2 tablespoons peanut oil

500 g topside, round or blade steak, thinly sliced into strips

125 ml (½ cup) coconut milk

6 dried daun salam leaves

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips lemon zest

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

Soak 18 bamboo skewers in cold water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Measure 2 tablespoons of the liquid and set aside.

Place the tamarind liquid into a food processor with the kecap manis, onion and garlic and process to make a smooth paste. Stir in the laos powder, if using, sambal ulek, pepper and shrimp paste, using the back of a spoon to crush the paste.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the spice paste and stir-fry until it turns brown and comes away from the side of the wok.

Add the meat to the wok and stir-fry for about 1 minute, or until the meat changes colour. Add the coconut milk, daun salam leaves, lemongrass and palm sugar, stirring to combine. Reduce the heat and simmer until the sauce is very thick and almost dry. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, then thread the beef strips onto the skewers.

Grill the skewers over hot coals or under a preheated griller (broiler) for 6–7 minutes on each side, or until the beef is cooked through and brown on all sides. If there is any leftover sauce in the wok, spoon it over the meat skewers to serve.

SAYUR LODEH

Vegetables in coconut sauce

SERVES: 6

Any vegetables in season can be used in this dish — French beans, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, zucchini (courgette), pumpkin and bamboo shoots is an excellent combination.

500–750 g mixed vegetables

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or 1 fresh red chilli, seeded and chopped

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips lemon zest

1 large ripe tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped

500 ml (2 cups) vegetable stock

375 ml (1½ cups) coconut milk

3 teaspoons peanut sauce or peanut butter

2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

lemon juice, to taste (optional)

Slice the beans, zucchini, pumpkin and winter bamboo shoots into small pieces: cauliflower or broccoli should be broken or cut into florets and cabbage shredded coarsely and the shreds cut across once or twice – if they are too long it makes the dish awkward to eat.

Heat the peanut oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it is soft and starting to colour, then add the garlic, sambal ulek and shrimp paste and cook over low heat for 2 minutes, crushing the shrimp paste with the back of a spoon and stirring well. Add the lemongrass and tomato and cook to a pulp.

Add the stock and coconut milk to the pan and bring to simmering point. Add the vegetables: simmer the beans for 4 minutes, simmer the cauliflower and broccoli for 3 minutes, then add the cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin and bamboo shoots and cook for a further 3 minutes. Stir in the peanut sauce and season with salt, to taste. A squeeze of lemon juice may be added if a sharper flavour is preferred. Serve hot.

GULAI MANIS KANGKUNG

Watercress in sweet gravy

SERVES: 6

Kangkung is a dark green leaf vegetable used in Asian countries and is highly prized for its vitamin value. Substitute watercress, spinach or chicory (Belgian endive). Although chicory is bitter, this preparation contains sugar, and the resulting bitter–sweet combination is fascinating.

500 g kangkung or spinach or chicory

35 g (¾ cup) dried shrimp

375 ml (1½ cups) thin coconut milk

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 small garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced

2 tablespoons chopped dark palm sugar

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

Wash the greens very well in several changes of cold water, drain well and slice coarsely.

Put the dried shrimp in a bowl with 125 ml (½ cup) hot water and leave to soak for 5 minutes. If using the brownish dried shrimp instead of the white prawn, they will need a longer soaking time, about 25 minutes.

Put the coconut milk, onion, garlic, salt, ginger, chilli, palm sugar and laos powder into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the shrimp and their soaking water, then add the kangkung. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, or until tender. Serve hot with rice.

PECAL TERUNG

Eggplant petjal

SERVES: 6

2 large firm eggplants (aubergines)

1 teaspoon tamarind pulp

1½ tablespoons peanut oil

5 candlenuts or brazil nuts

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

½ teaspoon sambal ulek

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

Peel the eggplants and cut into cubes. Drop into lightly salted boiling water or cook over steam until tender. Drain well.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 1 tablespoon hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or small frying pan over low heat. Add the candlenuts and shrimp paste and stir constantly, crushing the shrimp paste with the back of a spoon. Add the laos powder, sambal ulek, tamarind liquid, soy sauce, palm sugar and coconut milk and continue to simmer gently until the eggplant is tender.

Serve the eggplant with the warm coconut sauce poured over the top.

SAYUR KOL

Spicy cabbage in coconut milk

SERVES: 6

2 onions, chopped

2 garlic cloves

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped, or 1 teaspoon chilli powder

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons peanut oil

3 daun salam leaves (glossary)

2 strips lemon zest

375 ml (1½ cups) thick coconut milk

1 teaspoon salt

500 g cabbage, coarsely shredded

Put the onion, garlic and chilli into a food processor and process to a paste.

Wrap the shrimp paste in a piece of foil and roast under a preheated griller (broiler) for 5 minutes, turning halfway through the cooking time.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the daun salam leaves and cook for 1 minute, then stir in the chilli mixture and the shrimp paste and cook, stirring regularly, until the mixture darkens. Add the lemon zest, coconut milk and salt and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly. Add the cabbage and simmer for 3–4 minutes, or until the cabbage is cooked but still crisp. Stir in the tamarind liquid and serve.

SAYUR TUMIS

Stir-fried vegetables

SERVES: 4–6

Use any kind of vegetable, or a mixture of different vegetables in this stir-fry — coarsely shredded cabbage, watercress broken into bite-sized lengths, chokos that have first been peeled and sliced, green beans, bean sprouts, sliced celery, or any of your other favourites that are in season.

300 g (about 3 cups) mixed sliced vegetables

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 small onion, finely chopped

4 dried daun salam leaves

¼ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 tablespoon light soy sauce, or to taste

The vegetables should be washed and well drained.

Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, onion, daun salam leaves and shrimp paste and stir-fry until the onion is soft; crush the shrimp paste with the back of a spoon. Add the vegetables and stir-fry until lightly cooked, but still crisp. Add the salt and soy sauce, to taste and serve immediately.

SAYUR BUNCIS

Bean sayur

SERVES: 6

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

1 teaspoon salt

6 dried daun salam leaves

750 ml (3 cups) vegetable or chicken stock

500 g fresh green beans, sliced

1 cooked chicken breast, diced

375 ml (1½ cups) coconut milk

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Measure 2 tablespoons of the liquid and set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, chilli and shrimp paste and cook for 5 minutes, stirring and crushing the shrimp paste with the back of a spoon. Add the lemon zest and ground spices and cook for 1 minute, then add the salt, tamarind liquid, daun salam leaves, stock and beans. Bring to the boil, simmer for 8 minutes, then add the chicken and coconut milk and continue simmering for 5 minutes, or until heated through.

Note: Rice vermicelli can be added to this sayur when it is the main dish. Soak 125 g rice vermicelli in very hot water for 10 minutes, and drain well. Add to sayur and cook for a further 2 minutes.

SAYUR KARI

Vegetables cooked in coconut milk with curry spices

SERVES: 6

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 onions, finely chopped

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and sliced

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

2 stems lemongrass or 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

125 g rump steak, finely diced

1 litre (4 cups) beef stock

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

2½ teaspoons salt

6 dried daun salam leaves

2 large potatoes, peeled and diced

250 g green beans, finely sliced

500 g cabbage, coarsely shredded

125 g rice vermicelli, soaked in hot water for 10 minutes and drained

lemon juice, to taste

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and chilli and cook until the onion is soft and starting to colour. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute, then add the ground spices, lemongrass and shrimp paste and stir-fry for a further 1 minute. Add the beef and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes, or until the beef changes colour. Add the stock, coconut milk, salt and daun salam leaves and bring slowly to the boil, stirring occasionally. Add the potato and simmer for 10 minutes, then add the beans and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the cabbage, return to the boil, then add the vermicelli and simmer 2–3 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice, to taste. Serve immediately.

GADO-GADO

Vegetables with peanut sauce

SERVES: 6–8

1 telegraph (long) cucumber

1 small bunch watercress

500 g (4 cups) sliced green beans

3 carrots, cut into thin strips

½ small cabbage, sliced

3 large potatoes, boiled, peeled and thinly sliced

260 g (2¼ cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered

peanut sauce

Score the skin of the cucumber with a fork and cut into very thin slices. Wash the watercress and break into sprigs, discarding the tough stalks. Refrigerate until needed.

Cook the beans and carrot in lightly salted boiling water until just tender — the beans should still be crisp to bite and the carrot should be tender.

Blanch the cabbage in salted boiling water for 1–2 minutes, or until tender but not limp. Drain and refresh under cold water.

Put the watercress on a large platter and arrange the various vegetables and the bean sprouts in separate sections on top. Surround with slices of cucumber, with the egg quarters in the centre. Serve cold, accompanied by the peanut sauce, which is spooned over individual servings.

PACARI

Pineapple coconut curry

SERVES: 6

1 small pineapple, not too ripe

1 tablespoon oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 small cinnamon stick

3 whole cloves

3 cardamom pods, bruised

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon chilli powder or 1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced

1 teaspoon salt

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

1 teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar

Peel the pineapple with a sharp knife, remove the eyes and cut into quarters lengthways, removing the hard core. Cut each quarter in half lengthways, then into thick slices crossways.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and whole spices and cook until the onion is soft. Add the coriander, cumin, chilli powder and salt and stir for a few minutes, or until the spices have browned. Add the pineapple and stir well to coat. Add the coconut milk and palm sugar and bring to simmering point, stirring constantly. Simmer for 3–4 minutes, or until the pineapple is just tender, but not too soft. Serve hot.

URAP

Cooked vegetables with coconut

SERVES: 4–6

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

65 g (1 cup) freshly grated coconut or 90 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut soaked in 2 tablespoon hot water

1 small onion, finely chopped

½ teaspoon sambal ulek or chilli powder

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons lemon juice

250 g (2 cups) sliced green beans

4 carrots, cut into thin strips

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

½ small cabbage, sliced

1 bamboo shoot, thinly sliced

Wrap the shrimp paste in foil and roast under a preheated griller (broiler) for 5 minutes, turning once. Unwrap the shrimp paste and place in a bowl along with the coconut, onion, sambal ulek, salt and lemon juice, stirring well to combine.

Put all of the vegetables in a steamer basket and pour the coconut mixture over the top, reserving some to use as a garnish. Steam the vegetables for 5–8 minutes, then turn out onto a serving dish and sprinkle with the reserved coconut mixture. Use as an accompaniment or as a salad in its own right.

TAHU GORENG KACANG

Fried tofu with peanuts

SERVES: 4

1 teaspoon tamarind pulp

peanut oil, for frying

380 g pressed firm tofu, cut into cubes

peanut oil, for frying

70 g (½ cup) raw peanuts

1 large garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

140 g (½ cup) crushed roasted peanuts or crunchy peanut butter

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

½ teaspoon sambal ulek

1 teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar

125 ml (½ cup) coconut milk

75 g (1 cup) shredded cabbage

115 g (1 cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

4 spring onions, thinly sliced, to garnish

Soak the tamarind pulp in 1 tablespoon hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the tofu, taking care not to break it up, and cook until golden brown on all sides. Drain on paper towel.

In the same wok, cook the raw peanuts for 3–4 minutes, then drain well and rub off the skins. Set aside.

Make the sauce by pouring off all but 1 tablespoon of oil from the wok. Add the garlic and shrimp paste and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, and crushing the shrimp paste with the back of a spoon. Add the crushed peanuts, soy sauce, tamarind liquid, sambal ulek and palm sugar and stir until well combined. Remove from the heat and gradually add the coconut milk, stirring until the sauce is a thick pouring consistency.

To serve, put the tofu on a serving plate, cover with the shredded cabbage and bean sprouts. Spoon the sauce over the top and garnish with the spring onion and fried peanuts.

TAHU GORENG KECAP

Fried tofu with soy sauce

SERVES: 6

60 ml (¼ cup) dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon chopped dark palm sugar

1 onion, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or 1 fresh red chilli, seeded and chopped

1 garlic clove

oil, for deep-frying

380 g pressed firm tofu, cut into cubes

115 g (1 cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

4 spring onions, thinly sliced, to garnish

To make the sauce, put the soy sauce, palm sugar, onion, sambal ulek and garlic in a food processor and process until smooth. If a less pungent sauce is preferred, make one as in the recipe for tofu omelettes.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the tofu, in batches, taking care not to break the curd, until browned on all sides. Drain on paper towel, then arrange on a serving plate. Top with the bean sprouts and garnish with the spring onion. Spoon over the sauce and serve.

SAMBALAN

Basic sambal seasoning

MAKES: 2 CUPS

If you like hot food you will find it useful to make up a quantity of this base, which you can cook and keep bottled in the refrigerator ready to add to boiled or fried potatoes, breadfruit, yams or other starchy vegetables; hard-boiled eggs; stir-fried bean curd, fish, prawns or other shell fish; and crispfried strips of meat or liver. There is no end to the variations on this theme.

2 tablespoons tamarind pulp

15–20 large dried red chillies

3 large onions, roughly chopped

8 garlic cloves

2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste

125 ml (½ cup) peanut oil

3 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons chopped dark palm sugar

Soak the tamarind pulp in 250 ml (1 cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Soak the chillies in hot water for 20 minutes.

Put the chillies and their soaking liquid into a food processor with the onion, garlic, shrimp paste and just enough of the peanut oil to combine to a smooth paste — you may need to use more than half the oil, depending on the size and shape of the blender.

Heat the remaining oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the chilli paste and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture darkens in colour and the oil separates. Wash out the blender container with the tamarind liquid and add to the wok with the salt and palm sugar, and simmer for a few minutes longer, stirring. Remove from the heat and cool, then pour into a sterilised airtight jar and refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Heat the required amount (approximately 1 tablespoon to 250 g of the main ingredient) and stir-fry the already cooked main ingredient in it briefly. If a sauce is required, add 125–250 ml (½–1 cup) thick coconut milk and heat to simmering point, stirring constantly.

SAMBAL GORENG UDANG ASAM

Piquant fried prawn sambal

SERVES: 6

1½ tablespoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons sambal ulek or 4 fresh red chillies

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips thinly peeled lemon zest

500 g raw small prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon chopped dark palm sugar, or to taste

Soak the tamarind pulp in 80 ml (⅓ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is soft and starts to turn golden. Add the sambal ulek, laos powder and lemongrass, then add the prawns and cook, stirring constantly, until the prawns change colour. Add the tamarind liquid and simmer over low heat until the sauce has thickened and the oil starts to separate. Discard the lemongrass and stir in the salt and palm sugar, to taste. Serve as a side dish to rice and curries.

SAMBAL KEPALA UDANG

Hot-sour prawn head sambal

SERVES: 4

This is one of the by-products using the tastiest part of the prawn – the head. It contains most of the fat and therefore most of the flavour. While it may not be the easiest thing to swallow, it is worth chewing on (and politely discarding) just to savour the combination of flavours.

heads from 500 g raw prawns

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 tablespoons peanut oil

5–6 curry leaves

1 onion, finely chopped

1 large garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or 2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

Wash the prawn heads well and remove the hard, armour-like shell, the long thin feelers and the eyes. Drain well in a colander and then pat dry on paper towel.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or small heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the curry leaves and cook for a few seconds, then add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is soft and starts to brown. Add the sambal ulek and the shrimp paste, crushing it with the back of a spoon. Continue cooking for 3 minutes, stirring regularly, then add the coriander and cumin and cook for 1 minute longer. Add the prawn heads and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes, then add the tamarind liquid and salt. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the liquid evaporates completely and the prawn heads start to sizzle in the oil, about 10–15 minutes. Serve as a tasty side dish with rice and curries.

SAMBAL BUNCIS

Green bean sambal

SERVES: 6

1 tablespoon peanut oil

250 g (2 cups) sliced green beans

1 tablespoon crushed garlic

½ teaspoon sambal ulek

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 small onion, finely sliced

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the beans and toss in the oil for 2 minutes, then add the garlic and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the sambal ulek and salt and stir-fry for 1 minute further — the beans should be tender but still crisp. Remove from the heat, mix in the onion and serve as an accompaniment to a rice and curry meal.

SAMBAL BAJAK

Fried chilli sambal

MAKES: 1 CUP

Cooled, then stored in an airtight jar, this sambal will keep for weeks in the refrigerator. When serving, use a teaspoon for portions and warn guests it should be eaten in tiny quantities with rice, not by itself. As a taste for sambal is acquired, it is enjoyed on crisp crackers, in sandwiches, on steaks; in fact there is no limit to the ways a sambal addict will use it.

6 large fresh red chillies, roughly chopped

1 large onion, roughly chopped

6 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

8 candlenuts or brazil nuts, finely grated

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons chopped dark palm sugar

Put the chilli, onion and garlic in a food processor and process to a pulp — it might be necessary to stop and start the motor several times to draw the onion and chilli down on to the blades.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 125 ml (½ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Measure out 100 ml of the tamarind liquid and set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a small frying pan over low heat. Add the chilli mixture and cook for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, until well cooked but not brown. Add the candlenuts, laos powder, shrimp paste and salt, crushing the shrimp paste with the back of a spoon and stirring until the mixture is well blended. Add the tamarind liquid and palm sugar, stir well, and simmer until reddish-brown in colour and the oil starts to separate. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, then pour into a sterilised airtight jar and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

Note: If a food processor is not available, seed the chillies and chop very finely. Peel and finely chop the onion and crush the garlic with salt, before cooking.

SAMBAL ULEK

Hot chilli paste

MAKES: 1 CUP

Sambal bajak and sambal ulek may be purchased in jars from Asian grocery stores, but they are simple enough to make at home and can be stored for weeks in the refrigerator.

25 fresh red chillies

vinegar or tamarind liquid

2 teaspoons salt

Put the chillies, seeds and all, into a food processor with just enough vinegar or tamarind liquid to keep the mass moving and blend to a paste. Add the salt, to taste. Pour into a sterilised airtight jar and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

KRUPUK EMPING

Fried melinjo nut wafers

These flattened-out kernels of the melinjo nut are sold in packets and only require a few seconds frying in hot oil.

oil, for deep-frying

melinjo nuts

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the melinjo nuts, in batches, spooning the oil over them as they cook, which should take less than 1 minute — do not let them get more than light brown or they will be bitter. Lift them out quickly using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Sprinkle lightly with salt before serving as an accompaniment to a meal or as a nibble with drinks.

TELUR BERWARNA

Marbled eggs

MAKES: 6

The Southeast Asian love of bright colours is reflected in this favourite garnish for a festive meal. Employing the method used by the Chinese in their marbled tea eggs, Indonesians give hard-boiled eggs a marbling of bright red, green or yellow.

6 eggs

salt

red, green and yellow food colouring

If eggs have been refrigerated, allow them to come to room temperature. Put them gently in a saucepan with enough cold, salted water to cover, and bring to simmering point, stirring gently during the first 5 minutes to centre the yolks. When the water starts to bubble, gently cook the eggs for about 7 minutes, then cool them under cold running water. Meanwhile, put water in three small saucepans and use the food colouring to colour each either a deep red, green or yellow. Bring to the boil.

On a hard surface gently tap the eggs to crack the shells all over, but do not remove any part of the shell. Put 2 eggs into each pan and simmer for a further 5 minutes, then turn off the heat and allow the eggs to stand in the coloured water for at least 2 hours. When the shell is removed, there will be a bright marbling of colour on the whites of the eggs. Halve lengthways, and use as a garnish for festive yellow rice or other festive dishes.

BAWANG GORENG

Fried onion flakes

MAKES: 2 CUPS

Fried onion flakes are an important garnish as well as a flavouring for many Indonesian dishes. You can make these from scratch, using raw onions, or simply deep-fry pre-bought onion flakes, which are available from most large supermarkets and Asian grocery stores. If using raw onions, slice them consistently paper-thin, otherwise some will burn while others will be uncooked.

500 g shallots or onions, very thinly sliced, or dried onion flakes

500 ml (2 cups) peanut or vegetable oil, for deep-frying

If using raw onions, place them in a wok with enough cold oil to cover and heat slowly over medium heat. Let the onion cook until deep brown, but not black. Lift out, drain on paper towel and cool. Keep the strained oil for cooking stir-fries or fried rice, as it is deliciously flavoursome.

If using pre-bought onion flakes, heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, lower the dried onion flakes on a wire strainer into the hot oil and deep-fry for a few seconds until they turn golden brown. Lift them out immediately and drain on paper towel to cool. Store the fried onion flakes in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

RUJAK BUAH-BUAH PEDIS

Spicy fruit salad

SERVES: 6–8

1 grapefruit or pomelo fruit, peeled

1 orange or mandarin, peeled

2 tart green apples, peeled and thinly sliced

1 cucumber, peeled and diced

1 small pineapple, peeled and diced

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

½ teaspoon sambal ulek

1 tablespoon chopped dark palm sugar

1 tablespoon kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Break up the grapefruit and orange, cutting between the membranes to release the segments and remove the seeds — do this over a bowl, saving any juices. Place in a serving bowl with the apple, cucumber and pineapple.

Wrap the shrimp paste in foil and roast under a preheated griller (broiler) for 5 minutes, turning once. Unwrap the shrimp paste and put in a bowl along with the sambal ulek, palm sugar, kecap manis and lemon juice, stirring well to combine. Pour over the fruit and toss well to coat. Allow to stand for a few minutes before serving.

PISANG GORENG

Fried bananas

SERVES: 6

These fried bananas are served as an accompaniment lo rice and curries.

6 medium or 3 large bananas, ripe but quite firm

oil, for frying

salt, for sprinkling

Peel the bananas, and if they are large, cut in half crossways. Smaller bananas can be cut down the centre lengthways.

Heat a little oil in a frying pan over medium–high heat. Add the bananas and cook until brown all over — turn the bananas carefully, as they will break easily when hot. Lift out onto a small plate to serve, and sprinkle lightly with salt.

SAUS KACANG (1)

Crunchy peanut sauce

MAKES: 3 CUPS

There are many recipes for peanut sauce, but this is my favourite. Without the addition of liquid, it keeps for weeks. When required, add three parts coconut milk or water to one part sauce and re-heat.

140 ml peanut oil

1 teaspoon dried garlic flakes

2 tablespoons dried onion flakes

2 large dried red chillies

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce or kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

375 g crunchy peanut butter

1½ tablespoons chopped dark palm sugar

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Put the garlic flakes into a wire strainer, lower into the hot oil and deep-fry for a few seconds until golden. Lift out and drain on paper towel. Deep-fry the onion flakes in the same way. Drain on paper towel and set aside to cool.

Deep-fry the whole chillies until they are puffed and crisp, which should take less than 1 minute. Remove from the wok, drain on paper towel and cool. Discard the stalks and seeds and crumble or chop the chillies into small pieces. Set aside.

Add the shrimp paste to the remaining oil in the wok, crushing it with the back of a spoon. Add the lemon juice and kecap manis, then remove from the heat and stir in the peanut butter until well combined. Allow to cool.

Stir the fried garlic and onion flakes, crumbled chilli and palm sugar into the peanut mixture. Store in a sterilised airtight jar for up to 1 month. Use as is, or mix in enough coconut milk or water to make a more liquid sauce, adding salt, to taste.

Note: Fresh garlic and onion can be used instead of dried garlic and onion flakes. Peel 6 garlic cloves and cut into thin slices. Peel and finely slice 1 onion. Fry separately over low heat, removing from the heat as soon as they turn golden brown. Drain on paper towel and cool. Crumble the crisp garlic slices before adding to the sauce.

SAUS KACANG PEDIS

Hot peanut sauce

MAKES: 2 CUPS

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

1 tablespoon dried onion flakes

1 garlic clove, crushed

¼ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

4 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped or 2 teaspoons sambal ulek

80 g peanut butter

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

2 teaspoons grated dark palm sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or small heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion flakes and cook briefly until they turn golden. Drain on paper towel and set aside.

Leave about 2 tablespoons of the oil in the wok and cook the garlic, shrimp paste and chilli for 1 minute over low heat, crushing the shrimp paste with the back of a spoon. Add the peanut butter and 185 ml (¾ cup) water and stir until well combined. Remove from the heat and add the salt, kecap manis, palm sugar and lemon juice. If necessary, add more water to make it a thick pouring consistency. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, then crumble the onion flakes into the sauce and stir well. Serve at room temperature.

SAUS KACANG (2)

Mild peanut sauce

MAKES: 2 CUPS

120 g smooth or crunchy peanut butter

¾ teaspoon garlic salt

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

lemon juice, to taste

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste (optional)

coconut milk, or extra water, for thinning

Put the peanut butter and 250 ml (1 cup) water in a saucepan and stir over low heat until well combined. Remove from the heat and add the remaining ingredients, stirring well. Add just enough coconut milk or water to make the paste a thick pouring consistency. Season with salt and more lemon juice, if needed.

SERUNDENG (1)

Crisp spiced coconut with peanuts (quick method)

MAKES: 2 CUPS

45 g (½ cup) desiccated coconut

½ teaspoon dried garlic flakes

2 tablespoons dried onion flakes

½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

70 g (½ cup) roasted unsalted peanuts

In a dry frying pan stir the coconut over medium–low heat until golden. Add the garlic and onion flakes, crushing the onion flakes into small pieces first. Stir and cook until the coconut is deep golden and the garlic and onion flakes are toasted. Add the coriander, cumin and salt, stir well, then remove from the heat and allow to cool before stirring in the peanuts. This can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks.

SERUNDENG (2)

Crisp spiced coconut with peanuts

MAKES: 2 CUPS

1 teaspoon tamarind pulp

90 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut

1 small onion, very finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons peanut oil

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

140 g (1 cup) roasted unsalted peanuts

Soak the tamarind pulp in 1 tablespoon hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine the coconut, onion, garlic and ginger.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the shrimp paste, crushing it with the back of a spoon, and cook for 1–2 minutes. Add the coconut mixture and stir constantly until the coconut is golden brown. Add the coriander, cumin, salt and tamarind liquid and cook until the coconut is dry and crisp, stirring often. This takes quite a while and cannot be hurried by raising the heat. Allow to cool, then mix in the peanuts. Serve with a rice meal, or use as a garnish.

SPEKKOEK KUEH LAPIS

Many-layered spice cake

MAKES: ONE 20 CM ROUND OR SQUARE CAKE

This fascinating cake is not difficult to make, but you do need patience for the special cooking method. The layers, each hardly thicker than a wafer biscuit, are baked and then grilled one at a time. Be prepared to hover over the oven for a couple of hours — preferably when the weather is cold enough to make this a comfortable occupation! Some people prefer a light-textured cake, while others prefer a pudding-like texture which is richer and sweeter. If the former is to your taste use the recipe as printed. But if you prefer a sweeter, moist cake that most Indonesians consider the acme of their sweetmeats, then use only 75 g (½ cup) plain four and four egg whites instead of eight. The cake is served in very small, thin slices as it is so rich.

10 egg yolks

330 g (1½ cups) caster sugar

250 g butter, plus extra, melted (optional)

2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract

8 egg whites

225 g (1½ cups) plain flour, sifted

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

½ teaspoon ground cloves

Whisk the egg yolks with 110 g (½ cup) of the sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer, until thick and light.

Cream the butter with 165 g (¾ cup) of the sugar and the vanilla extract until light and smooth.

In a clean, dry bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then add the remaining sugar and whisk again until glossy.

Mix the egg yolk and butter mixtures together well. Fold in the flour, then the egg whites. Divide the mixture into two almost equal portions and mix the ground spices into the slightly larger portion.

Preheat the oven to 160°C (Gas 2–3). Lightly grease a 20 cm spring-form cake tin with softened butter and line the base with buttered baking paper. Dust with flour, shaking out any excess.

Put ⅓ cup of the cake batter into the tin and spread with a spatula — tap the tin firmly on the work surface to help the batter spread thinly and evenly. Bake in the centre of the oven until firm, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the griller (broiler) and place the tin under it for 30–40 seconds, about 15 cm away from the heat, until the top is evenly browned. Watch carefully so it does not burn — a dark coffee colour is what you should aim for.

Spread the same amount of plain (unspiced) batter over the first baked layer, return to the oven and cook for 10 minutes, then place under the griller as before. Continue with this layering until all the batter has been used, alternating the spice and plain layers and spreading the batter as thin as possible.

The extra melted butter is for those who like a really buttery cake, and is used to brush lightly over each layer after it has been grilled and before the next layer of batter is spread over.

When the last layer has been baked, insert a skewer in the centre. It should emerge slightly buttery, but not with uncooked batter clinging to it; bake for a few minutes longer if necessary. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack, then remove the side of the tin and cut into thin slices to serve.

MALAYSIA

Malaysia is a lush, green country typical of the monsoon lands of Southeast Asia. Because of its local produce and various cooking styles it has much to offer in adventurous eating. The cooking styles include Malay, Indonesian, Indian, Chinese and Sri Lankan, for people from all these countries have settled in Malaysia. Malaysian food is very similar to some Indonesian dishes, and in both countries the languages are almost identical.

In predominantly Muslim Malaysia the food is rich and spicy. Many kinds of meat and fish are used, but never pork – it is considered unclean, and it would be a serious faux pas to offer it to anyone of the Muslim faith. Among the Chinese it is used, and is one of their favourite meats. The Hindus do not eat beef, for cattle are sacred to them.

One of the most fascinating meals I had in Malaysia was in Kuala Lumpur, at a makan malam or night food stall. These indoor/outdoor eating places come to life when the sun goes down. Perambulating food shops are set up, each one specialising in a particular dish. I sampled chicken satay skewers that tasted of spices and fresh lemongrass, and were served with a peanut sauce, and ketupat, pressed rice cakes cooked in small woven baskets of coconut palm fronds. The sauce was surprisingly mild, being quite heavily sweetened to balance the spices. I then ordered a spicy noodle soup with cockles; sotong kangkong, a rich, red sauce with squid and fresh greens. Next on the menu was poh pia, a sort of unfried spring roll. All this was followed by a couple of unusual sweets. Ice kacang came in a tall glass packed half full with shaved ice doused in a sweet red syrup with cooked and sweetened corn kernels and red beans added. Evaporated milk was poured over, turning pink as it mixed with the coloured syrup and making a drink rather than a sweet.

Just as intriguing as the food we ate was the method of ordering. As soon as we sat at the table we were surrounded by half a dozen young boys who acted as waiters for the numerous stalls surrounding the dining area. Each represented a different chef. There was no printed menu; instead they chanted the names of the dishes available from the chef they worked for. It is decidedly different from anything a Western city has to offer, but adds greatly to the charm of this friendly land.

Another experience I will not forget was an early-morning visit to an open-air market where the baskets were piled high with fresh, shiny chillies of all shapes and sizes and ranging from bright green through yellow and orange to vivid scarlet; bundles of green and white lemongrass and other herbs; eggplants (aubergines) in amazing variety – green, purple, white, large, small, round or long, and one variety only as large as a pea. Everything looked so tempting that I had to restrain myself from a mad buying spree. I did succumb, however, to large bunches of fresh rambutan – those bright red, oval fruit the size of a pullet’s egg and covered with fleshy hairs which give them a bizarre appearance. When the skin is removed (it is thin and soft enough to be peeled by a thumb nail) there is a translucent white-fleshed fruit inside looking very much like a lychee. The flavour is refreshingly sweet-sour. It was in Malaysia too that I ate the best star fruit I have ever tasted. After tasting the fruit — so deeply golden and full of flavour — it quite changed my opinion of star fruit as being only a thirst quencher or table decoration.

SERVING AND EATING A MALAYSIAN MEAL

To save space, I would like to refer you to the Indonesian chapter, for what has been written about Indonesian food applies to true Malay food. In addition, Malaysian cooks take pride in their rich korma and biriani, which the Indian settlers brought with them and which have become part of the local culinary scene. Food is traditionally eaten with the fingers, but nowadays a spoon and fork is considered more refined. However, on family and ceremonial occasions people revert to the old ways.

Unlike many Asian countries where desserts are not often served, Malays love rich, sweet desserts and these are based on sago, mung beans, bean flour or glutinous rice. Palm sugar is added for sweetness, coconut milk for richness and pandanus leaf, the Asian equivalent of the vanilla bean, for flavour. In some recipes the sweet spices such as cardamom, cinnamon and cloves are used.

UTENSILS

The Malaysian version of the wok is the kuali — shaped the same, but generally thicker and heavier. In the absence of the clay pots (blangah) which are favoured for cooking curries, stainless-steel or heavy-based saucepans are recommended, especially for dishes using a large proportion of coconut milk, which discolours in an iron kuali. A deep frying pan is useful, and while the grinding stone (batu giling) features largely in preparing Malaysian spices, an electric spice grinder or food processor will do this job in a Western kitchen.

YOUR MALAYSIAN SHELF

This is a list of spices, sauces, sambals and other flavourings which are often used in Malaysian cooking and good to have on hand to make the recipes in this chapter.

candlenuts or brazil nuts

coconut cream and milk

coconut, desiccated or freshly grated

coriander, ground

cumin, ground

curry leaves

daun salam leaves (glossary)

dried prawn powder

dried shrimp

dried shrimp paste

galangal, fresh or brined

glutinous rice (pulot)

kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce) or use dark soy sauce

kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

laos (dried galangal) powder

palm sugar, or use soft or dark brown sugar

pandanus leaves (glossary)

peanut oil

salted soy beans (taucheo)

sambal bajak

sambal ulek

sereh powder (dried ground lemongrass)

sesame oil

shrimp sauce

soy sauce

tamarind pulp

turmeric, ground

Note: Though fresh galangal may look similar to ginger, this rhizome is infinitely harder to cut. Sliced, it adds flavour simply by simmering in soups and sauces, but for a curry paste, the rhizome will need to be peeled and finely chopped before grinding with a mortar and pestle with other ingredients. If you do not have access to the fresh root, sliced galangal in brine is the next best option. Otherwise, use the dry ground spice, known as laos powder. It will imbue the food with the correct flavour note, though perhaps with a

NASI KUNYIT

Glutinous yellow rice

SERVES: 6

500 g (2¼ cups) glutinous rice (pulot)

2 teaspoons salt

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pandanus leaf

500 ml (2 cups) hot coconut milk

fried onion flakes, to serve

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Put the rice into a saucepan with 500 ml (2 cups) water. Add the salt, garlic, turmeric, pepper and pandanus leaf for flavouring. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and steam for 10 minutes. Uncover, add the coconut milk (which should be very hot) and stir gently with a fork. Re-cover and cook for a further 10 minutes or until the rice is tender. Serve the rice garnished with the onion flakes.

KETUPAT

Compressed rice cakes

SERVES: 6

These firm rice cakes are usually cooked in individual baskets of woven coconut leaves so that the rice swells until it fills the basket and becomes firmly compressed. This is a way of producing similar results in Western kitchens.

500 g (2¼ cups) short- or medium-grain rice

banana leaf or aluminium foil

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Put the rice into a saucepan with 1 litre (4 cups) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 30–40 minutes, or until all of the water is absorbed. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon, then press the rice into a cake tin or baking dish to a depth of about 2.5 cm. Use a piece of washed and oiled banana leaf or oiled foil to cover the surface of the rice and then place a plate on top and press down firmly. Put a weight on top and leave at room temperature for at least 2 hours, or until very firm.

Remove the weight, plate and banana leaf, and use a wet knife to cut the rice into 5 cm squares.

SOTHI

Coconut milk soup

SERVES: 6

This soup is spooned over boiled rice, not served as a first course by itself.

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

2 onions, thinly sliced

6 curry leaves

2 fresh red or green chillies, seeded

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1½ teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons dried prawn powder

375 ml (1½ cups) thick coconut milk

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Put all of the ingredients, except the thick coconut milk and lemon juice, into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the thick coconut milk and continue to stir as the soup re-heats to prevent it from curdling. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice and serve as an accompaniment to rice and a dry curry.

CHAR KWAY TEOW

Fried rice noodles

SERVES: 6–8

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil or lard

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

4 small onions, sliced

4 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

125 g barbecued pork, thinly sliced

250 g raw small prawns, peeled and deveined

250 g small squid tubes (optional), cleaned and thinly sliced

2 Chinese sausages (lap cheong), steamed and thinly sliced

115 g (1 cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

1 kg fresh rice noodles, sliced into 5 mm strips

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

3 eggs, lightly beaten

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

4 spring onions, chopped

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the garlic, onion and chilli over medium heat, stirring, until the onion is soft. Add the pork, prawns, squid, if using, and Chinese sausage and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes, or until all the seafood is cooked through. Add the bean sprouts and toss once or twice, then remove to a plate.

Heat the remaining oil in the wok and add the rice noodles, stirring constantly until heated through. Add the soy sauce and oyster sauce and toss well to combine. Add the egg and stir constantly until it is set. Return the seafood and pork to the wok and toss to combine and heat through. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste, and serve hot, garnished with the spring onion.

Note: Fresh rice noodles are sold at Asian grocery stores, and are known as ‘sa hor fun’.

SOTO AYAM

Chicken soup (spicy)

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

3 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

3–4 celery tops

1 large brown onion, sliced

2 tablespoons peanut oil

6 daun salam leaves (glossary) (optional)

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

4 candlenuts or brazil nuts, finely grated

125 g rice vermicelli

2 large potatoes, peeled, boiled and diced lemon juice, to taste

8 spring onions, finely sliced, to garnish

2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and finely chopped, to garnish

crumbled potato crisps, to garnish

Joint the chicken. Put the chicken pieces into a large saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Add the salt, peppercorns, celery tops and half of the onion. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Allow to cool, then strain and reserve the stock. Remove and discard the skin and bones and thinly slice the meat. Set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in the saucepan over medium heat. Add the daun salam leaves, if using, and the remaining onion and cook until the onion is golden. Add the garlic, ginger and shrimp paste, crushing the shrimp paste with the back of a spoon. Add the turmeric, coriander, cumin and candlenuts and stir-fry for a few seconds longer. Add the strained stock and bring back to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, soak the rice vermicelli according to the packet instructions, then drain and cut into short lengths. Add to the simmering soup, return to the boil, and cook for 1 minute. Add the chicken meat, potato and lemon juice and heat through. Pour into serving dishes and garnish with the spring onion and egg. Serve the potato crisps in a separate bowl for sprinkling on individual servings.

SAYUR UDANG BAYAM

Prawn and spinach soup

SERVES: 6

250 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and finely chopped (heads and shells reserved for stock)

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

1–2 fresh red chillies, seeded and sliced

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 small bunch spinach or silverbeet, leaves and stems chopped separately

1 teaspoon salt

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

To make the prawn stock, rinse the prawn heads and shells and drain well. Heat 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil in a saucepan and when very hot throw in the shells and heads. Stir-fry until they turn bright pink, then add 1 litre (4 cups) hot water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. Strain and reserve 500 ml (2 cups) of the stock.

Heat the remaining oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over high heat. Add the onion and chilli and cook until the onion is soft and golden. Add the garlic and turmeric and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the spinach stems and stir-fry for 3 minutes, add the salt, prawn stock and thin coconut milk, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the spinach leaves and simmer for 3 minutes, then add the prawns and thick coconut milk. Bring back to the boil and boil for no more than 2–3 minutes. Serve immediately.

IKAN BRIANI

Layered spiced fish and rice

SERVES: 6

Fish savoury

750 g firm white fish fillets or steaks

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 teaspoons ground turmeric oil, for frying

2 onions, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 large ripe tomato, peeled and chopped

60 ml (¼ cup) thick coconut milk

Spiced rice

2 tablespoons ghee

1 onion, thinly sliced

5 whole cardamom pods, bruised

4 whole cloves

1 small cinnamon stick

500 g (2½ cups) long-grain rice

1 litre (4 cups) hot stock or water

2 teaspoons salt

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut each fish fillet into two or three pieces. Sprinkle lightly with the lemon juice and season with salt, pepper and 1½ teaspoons of the turmeric. Leave for 15 minutes.

Pour the oil into a large frying pan to a depth of 1 cm. Cook the fish over medium heat until lightly browned on both sides. Remove to a plate.

Pour all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the pan and cook the onion, garlic and ginger until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the coriander, cumin and remaining turmeric and stir for 1 minute further. Add the tomato, about ¾ teaspoon salt and 125 ml (½ cup) water, then cover and simmer until the tomato is cooked to a pulp. Uncover, add the coconut milk and simmer again, uncovered, until the mixture is smooth and thickened. Return the fish to the pan and spoon over the sauce, then continue to simmer for 3–4 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

To make the spiced rice, heat all but 1 teaspoon of the ghee in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until golden. Add the whole spices and rice and stir-fry until the rice is well coated. Add the hot stock and salt, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave covered for 5 minutes. Uncover and lift out and discard the whole spices.

Preheat the oven to 160°C (Gas 2–3). Grease a 2 litre (8 cup) capacity baking dish with the remaining ghee. Put one-third of the rice in an even layer in the prepared baking dish then pour over half of the fish savoury. Add another one-third of the rice in an even layer, then add the remaining fish savoury, and finish with a final layer of rice. Cover and cook for 25 minutes. Serve hot.

Note: If liked, this dish can be prepared a day ahead and refrigerated without baking, then heated in the oven before serving. Sprinkle the top with a little milk or water to prevent the rice grains drying out during baking, then cover with a lid or foil. Allow it to come to room temperature, then bake in the oven for 35–40 minutes.

IKAN KELAPA

Spiced coconut fish

SERVES: 4

500 g firm white fish fillets

45 g (½ cup) desiccated coconut

1 garlic clove

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon salt

1½ tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

4 x 20 cm squares banana leaf

4 x 30 cm squares foil

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into 10 cm lengths.

Put the coconut, garlic, ginger, kencur powder, cumin, ground coriander, garam masala and salt into a food processor. Add 185 ml (¾ cup) hot water and process to a paste. Stir in the lemon juice and coriander leaves.

Place a square of banana leaf over a square of foil and place a quarter of the fish in the centre of each. Spoon 2–3 teaspoons of the coconut mixture over the top of each portion of fish, then close the leaves, then foil to make four parcels, sealing to enclose the fish. Steam for 15 minutes. Serve hot with rice and a vegetable side dish.

GULAI IKAN

Fish curry

SERVES: 4-6

500 g fish steaks

2 onions, roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves

2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or chilli powder

250 ml (1 cup) thin coconut milk

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground fennel

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 strips thinly peeled lemon zest

6 curry leaves

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving pieces (see preparing whole fish).

Put the onion, garlic, ginger and sambal ulek into a food processor and process to a smooth paste, adding 1 tablespoon of the thin coconut milk if necessary. Scrape the blended mixture into a saucepan, wash out the food processor with the thin coconut milk and add to the pan with the ground spices, lemon zest and curry leaves. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 8 minutes. Add the fish, lemon juice and salt and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the thick coconut milk and stir until the curry reaches simmering point once more. Serve with rice.

IKAN GORENG TAUCEO

Fried fish with salted soy beans

SERVES: 4

500 g fish steaks

oil, for frying

2 onions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons salted soy bean paste (taucheo)

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and sliced

1 teaspoon light soy sauce

lemon juice, to taste

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Pour the vegetable oil into a large frying pan to a depth of 1 cm. Cook the fish over medium heat until lightly golden on both sides. Drain on paper towel.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the pan and cook the onion until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until golden brown. Add the salted soy bean paste and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the chilli, soy sauce and 185 ml (¾ cup) water. Allow to simmer until the sauce thickens slightly, then return the fish to the pan and cook for 5 minutes, turning once. Add the lemon juice, to taste, and serve with white rice.

IKAN KUKUS (NONYA)

Steamed fish (Straits Chinese style)

SERVES: 4

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

500 g firm white fish fillets

a few drops of sesame oil

3 tablespoons finely shredded Chinese preserved vegetables

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and thinly sliced

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

2 spring onions, finely sliced

2 tablespoons fresh coriander leaves

1 lettuce leaf, shredded

Soak the dried mushrooms in 500 ml (2 cups) hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain, remove the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Grease a heatproof dish with the sesame oil. Season the fish with salt and pepper and place in the dish. Scatter over the sliced mushroom, preserved vegetable, chilli and soy sauce, cover with foil and steam for 20 minutes. Garnish with the spring onion, coriander and lettuce. Serve with white rice.

ACAR IKAN

Vinegared fish

SERVES: 6

500 g fish steaks, such as tuna, kingfish or Spanish mackerel

juice of ½ lemon

2 small onions, 1 roughly chopped, 1 thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 candlenuts or brazil nuts

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

1 tablespoon peanut oil

2 tablespoons vinegar

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish steaks into serving pieces (see preparing whole fish). Rub with the lemon juice and season with a little salt. Set aside. Put the chopped onion, garlic, ginger, candlenuts and chilli into a food processor with 2 tablespoons water and process to a smooth purée.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Cook the fish until golden on both sides. Remove to a plate.

Cook the sliced onion in the wok until golden brown. Add the chilli mixture and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes, or until the colour darkens. Add 80 ml (⅓ cup) water and some salt and simmer for 5 minutes, then add the vinegar and bring to the boil. Return the fish to the wok to heat through. Serve with white rice, vegetable dishes and sambals.

SAMBAL GORENG IKAN

Fried fish sambal

SERVES: 6

500 g fresh sprats or small whitebait, about 5–7.5 cm long

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

1 onion, roughly chopped

2 candlenuts or brazil nuts

2 strips lemon zest

2 teaspoons chilli powder

1 teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste peanut oil, for deep-frying

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

5 daun salam leaves (glossary)

¾ teaspoon salt, or to taste

plain flour, for dusting

Wash the fish well. If using sprats, remove the heads and stomach bags. Rinse again in cold water and drain in a colander, then on paper towel. Set aside.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 80 ml (⅓ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Put the onion, candlenuts, lemon zest, chilli powder, laos powder and shrimp paste into a food processor and process to a smooth paste. It may be necessary to add a tablespoon or two of the tamarind liquid to enable the mixture to be drawn down on to the blades.

Heat 60 ml (¼ cup) of the peanut oil in a wok or large heavybased frying pan over low heat. Add the chilli mixture and stir until it darkens and the oil separates. Add the remaining tamarind liquid, coconut milk, daun salam leaves and salt and simmer until thick and oily. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Roll the fish in the flour to coat, shaking off any excess. Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the fish, in batches, for 4–5 minutes, or until brown and crisp. Drain on paper towel.

To serve, add the fish to the warm spice mixture and stir to combine. Serve at once, while the fish is still crisp.

SAMBAL GORENG SOTONG

Squid sambal

SERVES: 4–6

500 g small squid

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 onions, roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

2 strips lemon zest

5 fresh red chillies or 1 teaspoon sambal ulek

1 tablespoon peanut oil

2 teaspoons chopped dark palm sugar

1–2 teaspoons paprika

Clean each squid, removing the ink sac and discarding the head. Rinse the tubes under cold running water and scrub to remove the skin. Drain well and slice into rings.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 80 ml (⅓ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Put the onion, garlic, shrimp paste, lemon zest and chilli into food processor and process to make a smooth paste, adding some of the peanut oil to help the mixture down onto the blades.

Heat the remaining oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the chilli mixture and stir until it darkens and the oil separates. Add the tamarind liquid, palm sugar and paprika and stir in the squid. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring, until the squid is cooked and the mixture is thick and oily. Serve with rice.

Note: In Malaysia, a higher proportion of red chillies would be used to give colour to this dish, making paprika unnecessary.

KARI AYAM KELAPA

Chicken curry with toasted coconut

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

4–6 fresh red chillies

45 g (½ cup) desiccated coconut

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

2 onions, roughly chopped

3 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 stem lemongrass, sliced, or 2 strips lemon zest

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

2 teaspoons salt

8 daun salam leaves (glossary)

2 teaspoons laos (dried galangal) powder

Joint the chicken and cut into curry pieces. Soak the chillies in hot water for 20 minutes. Drain well.

Put the coconut into a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it becomes a rich, dark brown. Remove to a plate.

Put the coconut into a food processor and process to a fine powder, then add 125 ml (½ cup) of the coconut milk and process for 1 minute (in Asia fresh coconut would be roasted over coals and the nut meat then ground to a paste on a grinding stone). Remove the coconut mixture to a plate, and without washing the food processor, add the chillies, onion, garlic, shrimp paste, turmeric, coriander, cumin and lemongrass. Process to a purée, adding 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil, if needed.

Heat the remaining oil in a clean wok over low heat. Add the onion mixture, stirring constantly, until the moisture evaporates and the oil separates. Add the ground coconut, coconut milk, salt, daun salam leaves and laos powder and stir well. Add the chicken and stir gently, then simmer for 1 hour, or until the chicken is tender and cooked through. Serve with rice and other accompaniments.

SEMUR ATI

Spiced braised liver

SERVES: 4

500 g chicken livers or calves’ liver

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1½ teaspoons ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

Thinly slice the liver — if using chicken livers remove the tubes and any discoloured spots and divide each one in half. Wash and drain on paper towel; set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, or until golden. Add the liver in a single layer and sprinkle over the coriander, cumin, salt and pepper. Turn them and cook the other side for 2 minutes, then add the soy sauce and 80 ml (⅓ cup) water. Cover and simmer for about 5 minutes, depending on the thickness of the slices — being careful to not overcook, the liver should lose its pinkness inside but not be allowed to get hard and dry. Serve immediately.

AYAM LEMAK

Chicken with spicy coconut milk gravy

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

2½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 onions, chopped

3 stems lemongrass, white part only, sliced or finely grated zest of 1 lemon

6 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped, or 2 teaspoons sambal ulek

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

750 ml (3 cups) thick coconut milk

1 pandanus leaf or 3 fresh basil leaves

2 teaspoons salt

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces. Pound the ginger, onion, lemongrass and chilli using a mortar and pestle, or grind in an electric spice grinder with a little oil until a paste forms.

Rub the turmeric over the chicken pieces to coat.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the chilli mixture and stir constantly for 15 minutes, or until soft and golden. Add the chicken and fry for a further 10 minutes, then add the coconut milk, pandanus leaf and salt and simmer until the chicken is tender. Serve with white rice.

GULAI AYAM REBONG

Chicken and bamboo shoot curry

SERVES: 6–8

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 onions, finely chopped

80 ml (⅓ cup) coconut or peanut oil

1½ tablespoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

1 teaspoon chilli powder

2 teaspoons salt

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

300 g (2 cups) tinned, drained bamboo shoots, thinly sliced

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

Joint the chicken and cut into curry pieces.

Heat the coconut oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and golden. Add the coriander, shrimp paste, laos powder, chilli powder and salt, and cook for 3 minutes, stirring constantly, until the spices are brown. Add the chicken and stir until well coated in the spices, then add the thin coconut milk and simmer for 20–25 minutes.

Add the bamboo shoots to the pan and continue simmering for a further 20 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Add the thick coconut milk and simmer, stirring gently until the oil starts to separate and rise to the surface. Taste and add salt if necessary. Serve with rice, vegetables and sambal.

RENDANG AYAM

Chicken in coconut milk

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 onions, roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves, sliced

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

2 stems lemongrass, white part only, sliced, or 4 strips lemon zest

4 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

2 slices fresh galangal or

1 teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

4 daun salam leaves (glossary)

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ teaspoons salt

Joint the chicken and cut into curry pieces.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, lemongrass and chilli into a food processor with 125 ml (½ cup) of the coconut milk and process to a smooth purée.

Put the chilli mixture into a large saucepan with the remaining coconut milk, laos powder, coriander, turmeric, daun salam leaves, pepper and salt. Bring slowly to the boil, stirring occasionally — do not cover the pan or the coconut milk will curdle. Add the chicken, bring back to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the chicken is tender. Serve with white rice.

Note: This dish should continue cooking until the sauce has almost been absorbed — try to get a boiling fowl, or by the time the sauce has reduced the flesh will be falling off the bones. The more readily available roasting chicken can be served when it is cooked through and impregnated with the flavours of the sauce, even though it has not completely absorbed them.

GULAI AYAM

Whole chicken curry

SERVES: 6–8

You really need a tough boiling chicken for this recipe, because the longer the cooking time, the better the flavour. If using a roasting chicken, shorten the cooking time so that the chicken doesn’t fall apart, and reduce the sauce as described at the end of the recipe.

2 kg whole chicken

750 ml–1 litre (3–4 cups) thin coconut milk

3 teaspoons chilli powder, or to taste

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

2 teaspoons salt

1 onion, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips lemon zest

1 small cinnamon stick

1 pandanus leaf (optional)

1½ teaspoons ground fennel

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon ghee

Truss the chicken as for roasting and put it into a large saucepan with enough coconut milk to come two-thirds of the way up the bird. Add all of the remaining ingredients, except the fennel, lemon juice and ghee. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the fennel and lemon juice, turn the bird over, and continue simmering until the chicken is tender, adding more hot water or coconut milk if the liquid cooks away.

Pour the sauce into a bowl, leaving the bird in the pan. Add the ghee to the pan and fry the bird, turning it on all sides, until golden brown all over.

Remove the chicken from the pan after browning, pour the sauce back into the pan to reduce and once thickened return the chicken to heat through. Add more salt and lemon juice, to taste. Serve with rice and other curries.

SATAY DAGING

Malay beef satay

SERVES: 6

This is a surprisingly flavoursome marinade — despite the absence of garlic, onion and ginger. Serve hot off the barbecue, accompanied by ’ketupat’ and chilli peanut sauce.

750 g rump steak

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons ground fennel finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon sugar

80 ml (⅓ cup) thick coconut milk

Soak bamboo skewers in cold water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Cut the beef into 2 cm cubes, trimming off most of the fat, leaving a thin layer on some of the cubes. Cut the trimmed fat into thin squares and reserve.

Combine the turmeric, cumin, fennel, lemon zest, salt, sugar and coconut milk in a bowl and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the beef and toss well to coat. Leave to marinate for at least 1 hour, or overnight in the refrigerator — the longer it marinates the more flavoursome it will be.

Thread about 5 pieces of meat onto each skewer. Use the squares of fat where necessary, especially where the meat is very lean, as this will help to keep the meat tender during cooking. Grill over hot coals or under a preheated griller (broiler) until the beef is well cooked and crisp.

SHAMI KEBAB

Mutton and lentil rissoles

SERVES: 4

125 g red lentils or yellow split peas

250 g lean minced (ground) mutton, lamb or beef

2 onions, finely chopped

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

⅛ teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 egg, beaten

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint

oil, for frying

Wash the lentils or split peas well, then drain. Put the lentils into a saucepan with 500 ml (2 cups) water and bring to the boil. Add the minced meat and onion, and cook over medium– low heat, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are cooked — stir as the mixture starts to dry and continue cooking until the liquid is completely absorbed.

Turn the mixture into a bowl and when cool enough to handle, use your hands to mix in the cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, salt, pepper, egg and fresh mint. Mix thoroughly, then shape into about 8 flat round patties.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan and cook the patties until golden brown on both sides. Drain and serve hot.

GULAI KAMBING

Spicy mutton curry

SERVES: 6

60 g (⅔ cup) desiccated coconut

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

2 large onions, roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh ginger

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground fennel

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

4 candlenuts or brazil nuts

4–8 dried red chillies, or to taste

1 stem lemongrass or 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons peanut oil

750 g mutton, cut into small cubes

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

375 ml (1½ cups) coconut milk

1½ teaspoons salt

Put the coconut in a dry frying pan over medium–low heat and cook for 4–5 minutes, or until it is a rich golden brown. Remove to a plate to cool.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Put into a food processor with the onion and process to make a smooth, thick paste. Add the garlic and ginger and process to combine, then add the ground spices, candlenuts, dried chillies and toasted coconut and process until smooth and well combined. If lemon zest is being used it can be processed too, but if lemongrass is available add it later.

Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the coconut mixture and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently at the beginning and constantly at the end. Add the meat and cook for 3 minutes, stirring well so that each piece is coated with the spices. Add the tomato and cook for a further 3 minutes, then add the coconut milk, salt and lemongrass, if using, and bring slowly to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1½–2 hours, or until the meat is tender, stirring occasionally. Serve with white rice.

SAYUR MASAK LEMAK

Vegetable curry

SERVES: 6 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

2 fresh red or green chillies, seeded and sliced

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

250 ml (1 cup) thin coconut milk

1 large potato, peeled and diced

225 g (3 cups) shredded white cabbage

1 teaspoon salt

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

lemon juice, to taste

Put the onion, garlic, chilli, dried shrimp paste, turmeric and thin coconut milk into a saucepan and bring to simmering point. Add the potato and cook for 10 minutes, or until the potato is half cooked.

Add the cabbage and salt to the pan and cook for 3 minutes, then add the thick coconut milk and stir gently until the cabbage is tender and the potato is cooked through. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice to taste. Serve hot.

TAUKWA TAUCHEO

Tofu in salted soy bean paste

SERVES: 6

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and finely chopped

2 teaspoons salted soy bean paste (taucheo)

250 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined or 80 g (½ cup) crab meat

380 g firm tofu, cut into small cubes

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 tablespoons chopped celery leaves

2 tablespoons chopped spring onions

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and chilli and cook until the garlic starts to brown, then add the salted soy bean paste and stir-fry for 1 minute.

Add the prawns to the wok and stir-fry until cooked through, then add the tofu, soy sauce and 60 ml (¼ cup) water and cook until the liquid is absorbed. Season with salt, to taste. Remove from the heat, stir in the celery leaves and spring onion and serve hot.

SAMBAL GORENG KEMBANG

Chilli-fried cauliflower

SERVES: 6

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

4 fresh red chillies, seeded and finely chopped, or 2 teaspoons sambal ulek

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon salt

500 g cauliflower, broken into small florets

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or frying pan over low heat. Add the chilli, onion and garlic and cook until the onion is soft and golden. Add the dried shrimp paste, crush with the back of a spoon and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the salt and cauliflower and toss constantly until the cauliflower is thoroughly mixed and coated with the spices. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons hot water, cover, and cook for 10 minutes, or until tender. Serve hot.

TAUKWA DAN TAUGEH

Tofu and bean sprouts

SERVES: 6

380 g firm tofu

2 tablespoons oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

soy sauce, to taste

Cut the tofu into thick slices.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden, then add the bean curd and bean sprouts and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes, or until heated through. Add the soy sauce, to taste and season with the salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately.

ACAR KUNING

Vegetable pickle

MAKES: 3 CUPS

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 garlic cloves, finely grated

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 candlenuts or brazil nuts, grated

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

125 ml (½ cup) white vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

90 g (1 cup) julienne carrots

125 g (1 cup) sliced green beans

10 fresh red and green chillies, stems removed

1 green cucumber, peeled, seeded and julienned

125 g (1 cup) cauliflower florets

Heat the peanut oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute, then add the grated candlenuts and turmeric and cook for a few seconds longer. Add the vinegar, sugar, salt and 125 ml (½ cup) water and bring to the boil, then add the carrot, beans, chilli and cauliflower. Bring back to the boil and boil for 3 minutes, then add the cucumber and boil for 1 minute longer.

Turn into an earthenware or glass bowl and allow to cool. Use immediately or store in sterilised airtight jars in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

ROTI JALA

Lacy pancakes

MAKES: ABOUT 12 PANCAKES

These pancakes are served with spicy mutton curry or other rich, dry curries and form a substantial snack that is almost a meal.

2 eggs

685 ml (2¾ cups) thin coconut milk or fresh milk

300 g (2 cups) plain flour, sifted

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons oil

Beat together the eggs and milk until well combined.

Put the flour and salt into a large bowl and steadily add the egg mixture, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Do not add liquid too slowly at first or it will be difficult to get rid of the lumps. When all the liquid has been added, beat until the batter is smooth.

Heat a little of the oil in a heavy-based omelette pan or pancake pan and pour in some of the batter, moving the ladle back and forth so that the pancake will have a perforated appearance. Cook until set and pale golden underneath, then turn and cook the other side until cooked through. Remove to a plate and keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter to make 12 pancakes in total. If the batter thickens on standing, add a little water and stir well to combine before cooking.

SAMBAL KELAPA

Coconut sambal

SERVES: 6

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

65 g (1 cup) fresh grated coconut or 90 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut moistened in 2 tablespoons hot water

1 teaspoon salt

½–1 teaspoon chilli powder or 1 fresh red chilli, seeded and chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

1 small garlic clove, crushed juice of

½ lemon

Wrap the shrimp paste in a piece of foil and roast under a preheated griller (broiler) for 5 minutes, turning halfway through the cooking time. Unwrap and place in a bowl with the remaining ingredients, using your hands to combine thoroughly. Serve as an accompaniment to rice and curries.

SAUS KACANG

Chilli and peanut sauce

MAKES: 2 CUPS

oil, for deep-frying

140 g (1 cup) raw peanuts

10 large dried red chillies

1 teaspoon tamarind pulp

1 onion, roughly chopped

6 garlic cloves, peeled

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

60 ml (¼ cup) coconut oil or peanut oil

1 teaspoon salt

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

1 tablespoon chopped dark palm sugar

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the peanuts until just golden, then remove them using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. The peanuts will continue to cook in their own heat, so don’t leave them in the oil until they are brown or they will be overdone and bitter. Rub off the skins and pound, crush or process until they are coarsely ground — they should be crisp and have lots of crunchy bits, not worked to a smooth paste.

Put the dry chillies in a bowl with 500 ml (2 cups) hot water. Leave to soak for 20 minutes. Drain and reserve 2 tablespoons of the soaking liquid. Soak the tamarind pulp in 1 tablespoon hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre Put the soaked chillies and reserved soaking liquid into a food processor with the onion, garlic and dried shrimp paste and process to make a smooth paste.

Heat the coconut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the chilli mixture and stir-fry until it darkens. Remove from the heat and stir in the tamarind liquid, salt, coconut milk and palm sugar and transfer to a bowl to cool. When the sauce has cooled stir in the peanuts so they retain their crunchiness. Serve hot with Malay beef satay and compressed rice cakes. Garnish with sliced cucumber — it is ideal to cool the heat of the sauce.

SERIKAYA DENGAN AGAR-AGAR

Coconut milk jelly

SERVES: 6–8

3 cardamom pods, bruised

1 small cinnamon stick

5 teaspoons agar-agar powder

450 g (2½ cups) finely chopped dark palm sugar

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

1 pinch of salt

ground cinnamon, to garnish

Put the cardamom pods, cinnamon and 1.5 litres (6 cups) water into a saucepan over medium–high heat. Sprinkle the agaragar powder evenly over the surface of the water to prevent it from forming lumps. Bring to the boil, add the palm sugar, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the agar-agar and sugar have dissolved.

Add the coconut milk and salt to the pan and stir constantly until it just starts to simmer — do not boil or it may curdle. Strain through a fine sieve and pour into six or eight moulds or small bowls. Allow to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate to set and serve chilled with a light dusting of cinnamon to garnish.

GULA MELAKA

Sago pudding

SERVES: 6–8

‘Gula melaka’ means palm sugar, but it is so integral a part of the recipe that this popular dessert has become known by the same name. Sago pudding takes on a new dimension when prepared this way. Palm sugar is sometimes sold under the name of coconut sugar or coconut preserves — a solid cylinder of concentrated sweetness derived from the sap of coconut or other varieties of palm. If you have a choice of light or dark palm sugar, choose the dark as the colour and flavour is more authentic. If dark palm sugar is difficult to find, substitute an equivalent amount of dark brown sugar and maple syrup — for each 220 g (1 cup) of sugar add 175 g (½ cup) maple syrup.

390 g (2 cups) sago

1 small cinnamon stick (optional)

330 ml (1⅓ cups) coconut milk

1 pinch of salt

250 g finely chopped dark palm sugar

2 pandanus leaves

Put 2–2.5 litres (8–10 cups) water in a large saucepan and bring to the boil, then slowly pour in the sago and add the cinnamon stick, if using. Let it boil for 5–7 minutes, then turn off the heat, cover, and leave to finish cooking off the heat for 10 minutes — when done, the grains will be clear. Run cold water into the pan, stir well, then drain in a sieve, shaking the sieve so the water runs off and discarding the cinnamon.

Turn the sago into a bowl, stir in 2 tablespoons of the coconut milk and the salt. Divide among six or eight moulds or small bowls and refrigerate until set.

Make a sugar syrup by putting the palm sugar and 125 ml (½ cup) water in a saucepan with the pandanus leaves and stir over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. Strain through a fine sieve, then allow to cool and refrigerate until chilled.

To serve, turn the puddings out of their moulds into serving dishes and serve with the chilled syrup and remaining coconut milk at room temperature, in separate jugs.

SINGAPORE

Singapore is a gourmet’s dream come true. Any kind of food you wish to eat, Eastern or Western, is available at its best in this cosmopolitan city. I have eaten some of the best Chinese meals of my life in Singapore, at exclusive restaurants and at street stalls, not to mention Malay, Indian and Japanese food that made me look forward with eagerness to future visits.

But the most interesting food, because it is peculiar to the regions where the Chinese settled and intermarried with the locals, is the Nonya (or Nyonya) style of food – a mixture of Chinese ingredients and Malay spices, cooked in a way that is a perfect mingling of the two cultures. ‘Peranakan’ is the term given to Chinese people born in the British-run Straits Settlements of Singapore, Malacca and Penang; the women known as ‘Nonyas’, the men ‘Babas’.

There is conjecture as to when the Nonya or Peranakan culture began. Some say as early as 1459, when a Chinese Princess was given to the ruling Sultan of Malacca as a means of strengthening ties between the nations following a visit to that trading port by Chinese Admiral Cheng Ho. Her entourage followed her example and married locals. In the nineteenth century, enterprising Peranakan traders from Malacca were lured by the newer ports of Penang and Singapore, followed by an influx of Chinese labour, swelling the Nonya population and establishing a strong presence of Nonya traditions in those areas. The result was a singular and quite distinctive style of cooking that is preserved today not only in Singapore, but also Malacca, Penang and to a lesser extent Java; a cuisine that the Peranakan are proud of and cannot live without.

In 1979, I had the chance to meet and speak with the late Mrs Lee Chin Koon, author of Nonya Cuisine, the most comprehensive volume available on Nonya cooking at that time and a keen practical cook with 50 years’ experience. Her aim in teaching, cooking and writing her recipes was to ensure that Nonya cooking was kept alive — as the younger generation became less interested in the domestic arts and became more career conscious. Their entertaining was done in restaurants and with the increased tempo of life and the new freedom Eastern women enjoyed, young wives no longer spent hours in the kitchen with the older women of the household, watching, helping and learning. Apart from her accomplishments in the culinary field, the alert and energetic seventy year old was the mother of Singapore’s popular and powerful Prime Minister at that time, Lee Kuan Yew, and was affectionately referred to as ‘Mama Lee’.

‘To us, our Nonya food is very special and we prefer to eat it to any other type of food. It is totally different from Chinese food, though we do use some Chinese ingredients, like pork, which the Malays, who are Muslims, are forbidden to touch or eat,’ writes Mrs Lee. ’Ingredients found in Malay, Indonesian and Chinese kitchens can be found in our kitchens, however not all of our ingredients can be found in other typical Chinese kitchens.’

Nonya recipes are often hot and spicy. As well as using Chinese ingredients in some dishes, they add herbs and spices that are never used in traditional Chinese food. Many recipes are based on a rempah, a paste of various spices including hot chillies, spring onions, lemongrass, candlenuts, lengkuas (galangal), turmeric and blacan pounded to just the right degree with a stone mortar and pestle. The pounding itself is an art that must be mastered — too little and the paste will not be smooth enough, too much and it will become too liquid.

I understood perfectly what Mama Lee meant when she said the recipes in her book are six generations old but that the book itself represents seven years of work, merely to translate the agak, or estimated measures, into cups and spoons, precise weights and measures. In writing down Asian recipes I have had this problem myself.

Even with recipes that have been in the family for years, one finds they are done by instinct and learned almost by a process of osmosis. Young cooks learn from their mothers, grandmothers, aunts and after marriage from the all-powerful mother-in-law. There are no written recipes or precise measures. Experienced cooks know just how much of this or that ingredient to use and the amount can vary depending on how strong or fresh the ginger or garlic is, how hot the chillies, how large or how small the spring onions or stems of lemongrass. When it comes to passing on the recipes, especially to cooks who may be making a dish for the first time and do not know how hot or sour or salty it should be, it requires the utmost discipline to do every recipe over again, measuring by standard cups and spoons, trying to even out all the variables and write down the method in painstaking detail.

Mrs Lee’s attitude towards sharing recipes was a refreshing change from the unwillingness that characterises many Asian women who have built themselves a reputation as good cooks and who guard their secrets jealously. A request to divulge a recipe may be met with a firm refusal; or a vital ingredient or step in preparation may be left out so that attempts to duplicate a dish will not be successful. Mrs Lee decried this attitude and wished only that good Nonya cooking should survive. ‘A good recipe is meant to be shared’, she stated firmly, and I could not agree more.

I cannot remember every meal I have eaten in the garden city of Singapore, but some are outstanding and cannot be forgotten. There was the Kashmir style food at the Omar Khayyam, owned and run by Mr Wadhu Sakhrani, a gracious and most knowledgeable host. The exquisite decor, the original paintings done by an Indian artist (which are enlargements of very old miniatures) and the small alcoves in the walls, each one holding a simple oil lamp, set the mood for the meal to come. And when it came it was perfect in every detail. I have never eaten better Indian food, in or out of India. Typical of Kashmiri food, there were no mind-blowing hot tastes. Instead, there were exquisite fragrances and delicate spicing.

As Mr Sakhrani’s guest I was invited to sample a much larger variety of dishes than could normally be consumed at a single meal. Tandoori chicken rubbed with a spice marinade and cooked in a fiercely hot clay oven buried in the earth becomes tender, golden brown and crisp, with a flavour that defies description; Kashmiri prawn curry, richly red but not hot; kofta of finely minced tender lamb, spiced and sauced; chicken livers cooked in spices, onions, herbs and ginger; chicken simmered in butter with herbs and tomatoes. Then a raita that was smooth, rich and creamy, given a special, extravagant touch with pistachios; Persian pilau cooked with saffron, orange zest and almonds; biriani nentara, a vegetable and rice preparation; Khayyam naan, one of the large flatbreads so popular in lndia. And, to finish the feast, koulfi— the ice cream of Kashmir that bears no resemblance to the fluffy, gelatin-boosted ice creams of the West; and ras malai, queen of Indian desserts, featuring homemade cream cheese, rose and cardamom flavorings and rich clotted cream.

Another meal to remember was a superb Sichuan-style banquet at the Golden Phoenix restaurant in the Hotel Equatorial, which was reputedly the best place to eat Sichuan food. Cold hors d’oeuvre, including marinated duck and strips of jellyfish, deep-fried prawns and chillies, stir-fried chicken and vegetables and Sichuan soup — sour, slightly hot, laden with shredded pork, prawns, bean curd and shiitake mushrooms so that a small bowl of it was rich and filling. The Sichuan pancake served for dessert was a totally new experience — a very thin crepe filled with sweet bean paste and folded over to enclose it, then fried until golden and crisp on the outside. Toasted sesame seeds clung to the batter and even when folded it filled a large Chinese dish, so I could not help but wonder at how large the pancake must have been at first. It was brought to the table neatly cut into bite-sized strips but left in the original shape.

While these meals were superbly presented and cooked by experts, there was an element of fun and informality added when we dined at the Orchard Road Car Park, which is sadly no more. By day it was a car park, but at night it turned into one of those outdoor eateries for which Singapore was famous. No snowy white cloths or elegant decor here. Instead, you could wander around watching each chef cooking his speciality and decide which to order. You could partake of a dozen different noodle dishes; curries and roti in Indian or Malay style; fried rice, chilli crabs, satay and sauces, poh pia — in fact just about any Chinese, Indian, Indonesian or Malay food you care to name.

And you’d top it off with one of the local sweets or with a glass of freshly pressed juice. Orange and sugar cane vie for top place and it was sugar cane juice, frothy and pale green and just pressed, that I chose. It is one of the most refreshing drinks – not too sweet and very clean tasting. While it lacks the tang of lime or orange it has a delicacy of flavour I have not met in any other drink. Tinned sugar cane juice is a poor substitute. It has none of the fresh flavour or refreshing quality, and if not for the label on the tin it would be hard to identify with the fresh product, so wait until you can taste the real thing or pass it up.

SERVING AND EATING A NONYA MEAL

While Singapore is predominantly Chinese, I am representing Nonya cooking in this chapter, for this originated here and is synonymous with Singapore. It is, as with most Asian meals, all served at one time. Rice or noodles, curries, sambal, soup and vegetable dishes are placed on the table and each person makes their own choice.

Dinner plates are used for eating. While the traditional way is to mix and eat the spicy food with the fingers, modern manners favour the use of spoon and fork. This type of food is called lauk pering, or food served on a plate. When soup dishes such as laksa or meehoon are on the menu they are served in Chinese-style bowls. To finish the meal, sweets made of glutinous rice and coconut milk are popular. Wine is not served with this kind of food, and instead of Chinese tea most Nonyas prefer to drink Malay coffee.

UTENSILS

The traditional kitchen with its wood fire is almost a thing of the past. In modern high-rise housing developments that have taken the place of the kampung (clusters of little shacks huddled together in a common garden) modern gas stoves are used. Even where kampung persist, the tin or thatched roof shacks have been replaced with neat wooden houses and the kitchens too have been modernised.

For curry cooking the traditional vessel is the clay chatty so popular in Southeast Asia. Discerning cooks treasure their special clay pots as much as a French cook holds sacred an omelette pan.

For Chinese or Nonya-style cooking a wok or kuali is best; you’ll also need a sharp Chinese chopper and heavy wooden chopping board. A heavy mortar and pestle is invaluable for pounding spices and most cooks cherish their grinding stones, but a powerful electric blender can replace these two essentials in a Western kitchen. A coconut grater is also essential in an Asian kitchen, but nowadays cooks buy fresh grated coconut at the market. Again, a food processor or blender can be used for making coconut milk.

Good-quality saucepans, a deep frying pan, wooden spoons and the usual frying spoons found in any reasonably well-equipped kitchen will cope with the recipes in this chapter. For deep-frying, a slotted spoon and a wire or mesh skimmer will be invaluable.

YOUR SINGAPORE SHELF

This is a list of spices, sauces, sambals and other flavourings which are often used in Nonya cooking and good to have on hand to make the recipes in this chapter.

black pepper, freshly ground

candlenuts or brazil nuts

chilli powder

chilli sauce

chillies, dried red

Chinese barbecue (char siu) sauce

Chinese wine or dry sherry

cinnamon, ground

coconut milk and cream

coconut, desiccated

coriander, ground

cornflour

cumin, ground

dried shrimp paste

egg noodles

fennel, ground

five-spice powder

galangal, in brine and fresh

hoisin sauce

laos (dried galangal) powder

oyster sauce

peanut oil

peanuts, unsalted

rice vermicelli

salted black beans, tinned

salted soy bean paste (taucheo)

sesame oil

sesame seeds

shiitake mushrooms, dried

soy sauce, light and dark

tamarind pulp

turmeric, ground

wood fungus, dried

NASI LEMAK

Coconut rice

SERVES: 4–5

Though traditional nasi lemak is simply flavoured with salt and coconut milk, some cooks like to enhance the flavour with pandanus. Tie 2 or 3 lengths of pandanus leaf into a knot to fit easily in the pan and so they are easy to remove. Add it to the liquid in which the rice will be cooked and remove after the rice is cooked.

500 g (2½ cups) long-grain rice

310 ml (1¼ cups) coconut milk

2½ teaspoons salt

Soak the rice in water overnight. Drain well, then spread the rice in the top basin of a steamer and steam over rapidly boiling water for 30 minutes. Halfway through steaming, stir the rice so that it cooks evenly.

Put the coconut milk and salt in a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid over medium heat, stirring often, but do not boil. Add the steamed rice to the coconut milk, stir well, cover, then remove from the heat and let stand for a further 30 minutes, or until the milk is completely absorbed.

Spread the rice in top of the steamer once more and steam over rapidly boiling water for a further 30 minutes, starting on high heat and gradually reducing the heat until just simmering until the rice is tender and all of the liquid has been absorbed. Serve the coconut rice hot with meat, poultry, fish or vegetable dishes, both mild and hot.

Variation: You can mix 400 ml coconut milk and 350 ml water in a saucepan with 2 teaspoons salt and bring it to the boil. Add 400 g (2 cups) long-grain rice, stir, reduce the heat to low, and cook uncovered until the surface of the rice is dotted with little holes. Cover and cook for 7 minutes, then allow to rest without lifting the lid for another 5 minutes before serving. If you would like a less rich result, increase the water and decrease the coconut milk. As long as the total liquid content is 750 ml (3 cups) the consistency will be correct for that amount of rice.

CHEE CHEONG FUN

Fresh rice noodle snack

SERVES: 2–3

500 g fresh rice noodles

1 tablespoon Chinese barbecue (char siu) sauce

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon sweet chilli sauce

1 tablespoon lightly toasted sesame seeds

Cut the rice noodles into thin strips. Place into a bowl and pour boiling water over them, cover and leave to soak for 5 minutes. Alternatively, put the sliced noodles in a colander and steam over a saucepan of boiling water for a few minutes until heated through. Drain well and put the noodles into a serving bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and toss lightly to combine.

FRESH NOODLES, FRIED

SERVES: 4–6

3 slices bacon or cooked pork, trimmed and thinly sliced

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

250 g lean beef steak, thinly sliced

250 g raw small prawns, peeled and deveined

2 teaspoons salted soy bean paste (taucheo)

4 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

150 g (2 cups) shredded white Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

4 spring onions, cut into 5 cm lengths

500 g fresh wheat noodles, steamed for 15 minutes

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook for 1 minute, then add the beef, prawns, salted soy bean paste, garlic and ginger and stir-fry until the beef changes colour. Add the cabbage and spring onion and stir-fry for l minute, then add the noodles, soy sauce and 250 ml (1 cup) hot water. Cover and simmer for 5–8 minutes, tossing the noodles often, until all of the liquid is absorbed and the noodles are soft. Serve hot.

FRIED NOODLES, SINGAPORE STYLE

SERVES: 8–10

This recipe can be prepared using fresh rice noodles (kway teow) or fresh yellow egg noodles (hokkien mee). You should prepare all the garnishes before cooking the noodles. Pork should be simply cooked, simmered in lightly salted water will do.

1 kg fresh rice or hokkien mee (yellow egg) noodles

125 ml (½ cup) oil

6 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tablespoon tinned salted black beans, rinsed and mashed or salted soy bean paste (taucheo)

500 g pork, cooked and thinly sliced

500 g raw small prawns, peeled and deveined

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

3 celery sticks, finely chopped

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

Garnishes

4 eggs

2 teaspoons oil

10 garlic cloves

8 spring onions, cut into 5 cm lengths

3–4 fresh red chillies, seeded and thinly sliced

3–4 fresh coriander sprigs, leaves and stalks chopped

To prepare the garnishes, beat the eggs and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium–low heat. Add the egg mixture, a little at a time, to make thin round omelettes. Do not fold, but turn them on to a plate as they are cooked. When cool, roll up and cut into thin strips.

Finely chop or pound the garlic, rinse in cold water, squeeze dry with paper towel and fry over low heat until pale golden. Lift out with a wire skimmer. Drain and cool, then crumble into small pieces. Set aside.

Prepare the noodles just before you are ready to serve. If using fresh rice noodles, cut them into 5 mm strips and pour boiling water over to soften and separate the layers. If using hokkien mee, rinse in hot water and drain.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and cook until it just starts to change colour. Add the black beans and stir-fry for 30 seconds.

Increase the heat to high, add the pork and cook for 1 minute, then add the prawns and continue to stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the salt and 60 ml (¼ cup) water, bring to the boil, and boil quickly for 1 minute, then add the celery and bean sprouts and toss for a further 1 minute. Add the noodles and keep tossing until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed and the noodles heated through.

Serve the noodles on a large flat platter and sprinkle over the prepared garnishes. Serve immediately.

Note: You can serve this noodle dish with rojak alongside. Rojak is a piquant salad that usually accompanies fried noodles (opposite).

LAKSA LEMAK

Mixed seafood soup

SERVES: 6–8

Laksa is a one-dish meal of rice noodles and seafood in a spicy soup. The Singapore version is rich with coconut milk, while in the Penang-style version they omit the coconut milk for a piquant flavour. The former, also known as laksa lemak, is the most popular.

Prawn stock

1 tablespoon oil

shells and heads of 500 g raw prawns (see mah mee)

2 teaspoons salt

For the soup

375 g rice vermicelli

6 large dried red chillies, stems removed

2 tablespoons dried shrimp or 2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste

2 onions, roughly chopped

2 teaspoons grated fresh galangal or 2 teaspoons laos (dried galangal) powder

6 candlenuts or brazil nuts

2 stems lemongrass, white part only, thinly sliced, or 1 strip lemon zest

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1.5 litres (6 cups) coconut milk

500 g Chinese-style fish cakes, sliced (glossary)

175 g (1 cup) crab meat (optional)

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed, to serve

1 telegraph (long) cucumber, peeled, seeded and thinly sliced, to serve

1 large handful Vietnamese mint leaves, to serve

sambal ulek or sambal bajak, to serve

fresh lime or lemon wedges (optional), to serve

To make the prawn stock, heat the oil in a saucepan over high heat. Add the prawn shells and heads and cook, stirring constantly, until they turn pink. Add 2.5 litres (10 cups) water and the salt, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until reduced by a third. Strain the stock, discarding the shells and heads. Set aside.

Soak the vermicelli in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain.

Soak the chillies and dried shrimp in hot water for at least 10 minutes, then drain well, reserving the soaking liquid. Place in a food processor with the onion, galangal, candlenuts and lemongrass and process to a purée, adding a little of the soaking water if needed.

Heat 60 ml (¼ cup) of the peanut oil in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the chilli mixture, stirring to prevent burning, until it darkens and becomes fragrant. Add the turmeric and coriander and stir-fry for 1 minute longer, then add the prawn stock and simmer for about 30 minutes.

Add the coconut milk to the soup, then taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Add the fish cake and crab meat and bring to simmering point. Add the rice vermicelli, stir to combine and heat through.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the prawns and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes, adding a little salt to taste. Remove from the heat.

Serve the laksa in large bowls, topping each bowl with a few prawns, some of the bean sprouts, cucumber and Vietnamese mint. Serve the sambal ulek separately for intrepid chilli eaters and lime or lemon wedges for those who prefer a more piquant flavour.

MAH MEE

Noodle soup

SERVES: 5–6

1 tablespoon peanut oil

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined (heads and shells reserved for stock)

2 teaspoons salt

500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock

1 tablespoon sesame oil

3 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

125 g fine egg noodles

250 g barbecued pork, thinly sliced

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

100 g (¾ cup) crab meat

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 Lebanese (short) cucumber, peeled and diced

Heat the peanut oil in a saucepan over high heat. Add the prawn shells and heads and cook, stirring constantly, until they turn pink. Add 1 litre (4 cups) water and the salt, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until reduced by a third. Strain the stock, discarding the shells and heads. Set aside. (If liked, the prawn heads and a little of the stock can be blended for a few seconds in a food processor, then passed through a fine strainer and the liquid added to the prawn stock. This results in a more flavoursome soup.) Combine the prawn and chicken stocks.

Heat the sesame oil in a clean saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until starting to brown. Add the combined stocks and the prawns, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the noodles and continue simmering for a further 5 minutes. Add the pork, bean sprouts and five-spice powder, and simmer for 2 minutes to heat through and combine.

Serve the soup in bowls, garnished with the crab meat, spring onion and cucumber.

HOKKIEN MEE SOUP

SERVES: 6 AS A MAIN

2 tablespoons oil

500 g raw small prawns, peeled and deveined

500 g hokkien mee (yellow egg) noodles

125 g rice vermicelli

500 g (4⅓ cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

12 spinach leaves

2 litres (8 cups) pork or chicken stock

2 dried red chillies, seeded

sugar, to taste

soy sauce, to taste

salt, to taste

125 g pork fat, diced and lightly fried, to serve

4 tablespoons fried onion flakes, to serve

4 dried red chillies (optional), seeded and lightly fried, to serve

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a frying pan over medium–high heat. Add the prawns and cook until they start to turn pink, then remove to a plate. Parboil the noodles in a saucepan of boiling water, then drain and run cold water over them to stop the cooking process. Remove to a plate. Soak the rice vermicelli in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain well and set aside. Scald the bean sprouts by pouring boiling water over them in a colander, then run cold water over to cool and set aside. Blanch the spinach briefly in a little boiling water until half cooked, then drain and cut into short strips. Set aside.

Put the stock into a saucepan and bring to the boil.

Heat the remaining oil in a separate large saucepan and cook the chillies, until they darken, then add the hot stock, sugar, soy sauce and salt, to taste, and simmer for 5 minutes.

To serve the soup, divide the noodles, rice vermicelli, bean sprouts, prawns and spinach leaves between bowls. Pour the boiling soup over the top, then serve with the pork, onion flakes, crumbled fried chillies and extra soy sauce on the table so each person can add to their soup according to their own taste.

POH PIA

Fresh spring rolls

MAKES: ABOUT 25

This popular snack of Chinese origin is known as ‘poh pia’ in Singapore and Malaysia, ‘kau pyan’ in Burma and bears a strong resemblance to the lumpia of the Philippines. It is a fresh spring roll — in other words, one that is not fried. The poh pia consists of three parts: the wrapping, the cooked filling and the garnishes, which are served separately and added to the filling according to taste.

Egg roll wrappers

5 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons oil, plus extra for cooking

150 g (1 cup) plain flour

Filling

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

190 g firm tofu, cut in strips

500 g pork belly pork, boiled and diced

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 tablespoons salted soy beans, drained and mashed, or salted soy bean paste (taucheo)

250 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped

400 g (2⅔ cups) bamboo shoots, cut into matchsticks

750 g yam bean (jicama), peeled and cut into matchsticks

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

Garnishes

3 eggs, lightly beaten

10–15 garlic cloves

1 large lettuce, leaves separated

175 g (1 cup) crab meat, flaked

1 Lebanese (short) cucumber, peeled, seeded and thinly sliced into strips

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

6 Chinese sausages (lap cheong), steamed and sliced

1 small handful fresh coriander leaves

chilli sauce

kecap manis (sweet dark soy sauce)

To prepare the garnishes, beat the eggs and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the egg mixture, a little at a time, to make thin round omelettes. Do not fold, but turn them on to a plate as they are cooked. When cool, roll up and cut into thin strips.

Finely chop or pound the garlic, rinse in cold water, then squeeze dry with paper towel. Heat a little oil in a frying pan and cook over low heat until golden. Lift out with a wire skimmer. Drain and cool, then crumble into small pieces. Set aside.

To make the egg roll wrappers, whisk together the eggs and 375 ml (1½ cups) cold water in a bowl until well combined but not too frothy. Add the salt, oil and flour and beat until smooth. Allow to rest for 30 minutes.

Lightly oil a heavy-based frying pan or pancake pan. Pour in a small ladle of the wrapper mixture and swirl to thinly coat the base of the pan. Cook over low heat until the underside is cooked and pale golden. Turn and cook the other side for a few seconds only — these wrappers should not be allowed to brown. Remove to a plate and repeat until all of the batter is used — you should make about 25 wrappers in total.

To make the filling, heat the oil in a wok or large heavybased frying pan over medium heat. Add the tofu and stir-fry until they are golden brown all over. Drain on paper towel and cut into small dice. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the wok, add the pork and stir-fry until the fat begins to run. Add the garlic and salted soy beans and stir-fry until the garlic is golden. Add the prawns and toss until they turn pink. Add the bamboo shoots and yam bean and stir-fry until cooked but still crisp, then return the bean curd to the pan; season with salt, to taste, and simmer until the filling is almost dry. Remove from the heat and drain off any remaining oil from the filling.

Assembling the poh pia is half the fun and adds greatly to the enjoyment of eating this snack. Each person puts an egg roll wrapper on his or her plate. On this goes a piece of lettuce leaf, which is then spread with chilli sauce or sprinkled with the kecap manis. A spoonful of the cooked filling is then put on the leaf and garnishes, as desired, are added. Roll up the egg wrapper, turning in the sides so that the filling is completely enclosed. Poh pia should be eaten immediately.

MURTABA

Rotis with savoury filling

MAKES: 10–12

150 g (1 cup) roti flour or plain flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon ghee or oil

125 ml (½ cup) oil

1 quantity keema mattar, omitting yoghurt and peas

2 eggs, lightly beaten (optional) salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 onion, thinly sliced

Put the flour and salt in a bowl and rub in the ghee. Add 250 ml (1 cup) lukewarm water all at once and mix to a fairly soft dough. Turn out onto a clean work surface and knead the dough for at least 10 minutes. Divide into 10 even-sized balls and place them in a bowl with the oil so they are covered and leave to rest for 1 hour.

Prepare the keema mattar filling following the directions — it should be cooked until it is quite dry. Season the eggs well with salt and pepper. You can have a choice of fillings, or use some beaten egg and some meat together.

Heat a little of the oil on a griddle plate or in a large heavybased frying pan over medium heat.

On a clean work surface, spread a little oil from the bowl and roll out the dough balls with a rolling pin. Gently press with fingers, spreading the dough until it is quite thin. Drape the roti over a rolling pin and carry it to the griddle, placing it on the hot surface much as you would put the top on a pie. It will cook very quickly, so spoon on some beaten egg and spread it over the middle portion of the roti with the underside of the spoon. Sprinkle some meat over and finally add a few slices of onion. Fold over the sides of the roti, envelope-fashion, to completely enclose the filling, then turn with a frying slice and cook the other side, spreading a little more ghee or oil on the griddle before you put it down. When crisp and golden on both sides it is ready. Remove from the heat and keep warm while you cook the remainder. Serve hot.

Sometimes the murtaba is cooked without any filling and served with a curry, in which case it is broken, dipped and eaten in the same way as chapati or paratha.

SPRING ROLLS

MAKES: 20

This popular snack is within the scope of any home cook now that spring roll wrappers are available frozen from Asian grocery stores. Thaw them before attempting to separate these delicate pastry squares.

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

250 g pork, finely chopped

250 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped

150 g (2 cups) shredded Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

75 g (¼ cup) shredded daikon

12 tinned water chestnuts, drained and chopped

150 g (1 cup) chopped bamboo shoots

115 g (1 cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 teaspoon salt

3 teaspoons cornflour

20 spring roll wrappers

oil, for deep-frying

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain well, remove the stalks and finely chop the caps. Heat the peanut and sesame oils in a wok and cook the garlic and ginger for a few seconds. Increase the heat, add the pork, and stir fry until it changes colour. Add the prawns and stir-fry until they are cooked. Add the vegetables, soy sauce, oyster sauce and salt, and stir to combine. Push the mixture to one side of the wok. Combine the cornflour and water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and stir until the sauce thickens. Remove from the heat and stir to combine. Allow to cool completely.

Put 2 tablespoons of the mixture at one end of the spring roll wrapper and roll up, folding in the sides so that the filling is completely enclosed. Dampen the edges with water or a mixture of cornflour and water and press to seal.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the spring rolls, in batches, until golden brown. Drain on paper towel and serve immediately with chilli sauce, if desired.

STIR-FRIED PRAWNS WITH BEAN SPROUTS AND SNOW PEAS

SERVES: 4–6

2 tablespoons dried wood fungus

2 tablespoons oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 celery sticks, thinly sliced

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

250 g raw small prawns, peeled and deveined

12–18 snow peas (mangetout), trimmed and thinly sliced

2 teaspoons cornflour

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

Soak the wood fungus in hot water for 10 minutes. It will swell and soften. Trim off any gritty pieces.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 10 seconds, then add the celery and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the bean sprouts and stir-fry for 1 minute, or until the vegetables are tender but still crisp. Remove to a plate.

Add the remaining oil to the wok and stir-fry the prawns until they turn pink. Add the snow peas and stir-fry for 30–40 seconds. Return the other vegetables to the wok with the wood fungus and toss until heated through, then move them to the side of the wok. Add the cornflour to the liquid in the base of the pan and stir through the sugar, soy sauce and wine to combine then toss the vegetables back through the sauce. Serve immediately.

SWEET AND SOUR FRIED PRAWNS

SERVES: 4

Soaking the prawns in cold salted water is a Chinese technique that gives the prawns a wonderfully springy texture.

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined, tails left intact

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 egg whites

2½ tablespoons cornflour

peanut oil, for deep-frying

1 Lebanese (short) cucumber, thinly sliced

Sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) white vinegar

185 ml (¾ cup) pineapple or orange juice

1 tablespoon sugar

½ teaspoon salt

a pinch of red colouring powder (optional)

1 tablespoon arrowroot

Wash the prawns, then soak them in a bowl with 750 ml (3 cups) cold water and ½ teaspoon of the salt for 30 minutes. Drain well in a colander and then pat dry with paper towel. Put the prawns into a dry bowl and sprinkle with the remaining salt. Add the ginger and toss to coat. Add the egg whites and cornflour and mix again until the prawns are well coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.

To make the sauce, combine the vinegar, pineapple juice, sugar and salt in a bowl and add just enough colouring to give a bright pink colour, if desired. Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat. In a small bowl, combine the arrowroot with 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the pan, return to the heat and stir until the sauce boils and thickens.

Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the prawns, in batches, for 1 minute or until they turn pink. Do not overcook or they will become tough. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.

To serve, put the prawns on a serving plate and pour over the hot sauce. Garnish with the cucumber.

FRIED FISH WITH CRAB SAUCE

SERVES: 5–6

1 kg skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons cornflour

peanut oil, for deep-frying

Sauce

2 tablespoons peanut oil

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

250 ml (1 cup) chicken or fish stock

175 g (1 cup) crab meat

1 pinch of freshly ground black pepper

2½ teaspoons cornflour

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Rub the grated ginger over the fish, then cut each fillet into bite-sized pieces. Combine the salt and cornflour in a bowl and toss to coat the fish.

Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the fish, a few pieces at a time, for 1 minute, or until opaque. Drain on paper towel and keep warm wh while preparing the sauce.

To make the e sauce, heat thepeanut oil in a saucepan over medium–loww heat. Add the spring on onion and ginger and stir-fry forr a few seconds, then add the stock, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 3–4 minutes. Add thecrab meat and heat through for no longer than a minute; season w with the pepper, to taste. Mix together the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water in a bowl until smooth, then add to the pan and stir to combine. Bring back to the boil and season, to taste.

Arrange the fish on a serving plate with the hot sauce spooned over the top and serve immediately.

DEEP-FRIED FISH WITH VEGETABLES

SERVES: 4–6

750 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

1 tablespoon cornflour, plus 1 teaspoon, extra

1 tablespoon egg white

125 ml (½ cup) oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

150 g (2 cups) sliced white Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

6 spring onions, cut into 5 cm lengths

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving pieces (see preparing whole fish). Combine the salt, five-spice powder and cornflour in one bowl. Put the egg white in another bowl.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Dip the fish pieces first in the egg white and then toss in the cornflour mixture, shaking off any excess. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the fish, in batches, for 1–2 minutes, until just cooked through and crisp. Drain on paper towel and keep warm while preparing the sauce.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the pan, add the garlic, ginger and cabbage and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the spring onion and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the soy sauce, oyster sauce and 125 ml (½ cup) water and bring to the boil. In a small bowl, combine the extra cornflour and 1 tablespoon water to make a smooth paste. Add to the pan and stir until the sauc sauce boils and thickens.

Arrangethe fish on serving plates with the hot sauce spooned over the top and s serve immediately with rice or noodles.

FRIED CHILLI CRABS

SERVES: 4

2 raw blue swimmer or mud crabs

125 ml (½ cup) peanut oil

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

60 ml (¼ cup) tomato sauce (ketchup)

60 ml (¼ cup) chilli sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon salt

Remove the large shells from the crabs and discard the fibrous tissue under the shell. Divide each crab into four portions, breaking each body in half and separating the claws from the body, leaving the legs attached.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium–high heat. Add the crab pieces and cook, turning regularly, until they change colour on all sides. Remove to a plate.

Reduce the heat to low and cook the ginger, garlic and chilli, stirring constantly, until they are cooked but not brown. Add the tomato and chilli sauces, sugar, soy sauce and salt, bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, return the crab pieces to the wok and allow to simmer in the sauce for 3 minutes, adding a little water if the sauce reduces too much. Serve with white rice.

DEEP FRIED PRAWNS WITH CHILLI

SERVES: 4

oil, for deep-frying

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

1 garlic clove

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the prawns, in batches, for 2–3 minutes, or just until they turn pink. Remove to a plate and drain on paper towel.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of oil from the wok. Combine the chilli, garlic and ginger in a bowl with 1 teaspoon of the sugar. Add to the wok and stir-fry over low heat, then add the remaining sugar, soy sauce and wine and stir well to combine. Return the prawns to the wok and stir to combine and heat through. Serve immediately with rice or noodles.

PRAWNS IN CHILLI BEAN SAUCE

SERVES: 2–3

1 garlic clove, crushed with

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

12 raw large prawns, peeled and deveined

1 tablespoon tinned salted black beans, rinsed and crushed

1–2 teaspoons chilli sauce

2 teaspoons hoisin sauce

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 red capsicum (pepper), seeded and chopped

1 green capsicum (pepper), seeded and chopped

1 spring onion, thinly sliced, to garnish

Mix together the garlic, ginger and wine in a bowl. Add the prawns and set aside to marinate while preparing the other ingredients.

Combine the black beans and chilli and hoisin sauces in a bowl.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the capsicum and stir-fry for 2 minutes, then move them to the side of the wok. Add the prawns and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes, or until they turn pink. Move the prawns to one side of the wok, then add the black bean mixture and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Toss all of the ingredients together to coat. Serve hot, garnished with the spring onion.

COUNTRY CAPTAIN

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg whole chicken or chicken pieces

2 garlic cloves, crushed with 2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

4 large onions, thinly sliced

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and sliced

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces. Combine the garlic, turmeric and pepper and rub over the chicken pieces to coat.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add half of the onion and cook until brown. Remove to a plate.

Add the remaining onion to the pan with the chilli and stir-fry until just starting to colour, then add the chicken to the pan and cook, turning regularly, until golden all over. Add 125 ml (½ cup) water, cover, and simmer gently until the chicken is tender. Uncover, and continue simmering until all of the liquid has evaporated.

Serve hot, garnished with the reserved fried onion and accompanied by fried potatoes or ghee rice.

SATAY-FLAVOURED ROAST CHICKEN

SERVES: 4–5

1 onion, roughly chopped

1 garlic clove

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground fennel

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder (optional)

½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

2 candlenuts or brazil nuts, finely grated

2 tablespoons oil or ghee

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1.5 kg whole chicken

Put the onion, garlic and chilli into a food processor and process to a smooth paste, adding 2 tablespoons of the coconut milk if necessary. Mix in the ground spices, lemon zest and candlenuts.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (Gas 4).

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the chilli mixture and stir-fry until the colour darkens and the oil starts to separate. Remove from the heat and stir in the salt and lemon juice. Allow to cool slightly.

Rub the spice mixture inside and outside the chicken, truss the chicken, and place in a deep roasting tin, breast side up. Pour the coconut milk around the chicken and roast in the oven for 15 minutes, then basting with the liquid in the tin, turn the chicken so that it is breast side down and cook for a further 1¼ hours, or until tender. You will need to continue basting the chicken every 20 minutes or so during cooking; if the coconut milk shows signs of drying up, add up to 250 ml (1 cup) more. Towards the end of cooking, turn the chicken, breast side up, and continue cooking for a further 15 minutes, or until it is a nice golden brown and cooked through. Carve the chicken and serve with the coconut milk spooned over the top. Serve with rice and other accompaniments.

CRISP SKIN CHICKEN

SERVES: 4

This a recipe, which I have pursued for years — there are many versions and I wouldn’t be surprised if I’ve tried them all in my search for perfection! When you have a few hours to spare between planning your meal and eating it, you may care to try this method … I’m sure the results will be pleasing.

1 kg whole chicken

1 teaspoon salt, plus extra to serve

2¼ teaspoons five-spice powder, plus extra, to serve

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon honey

1 lemon, sliced

2 litres (8 cups) oil

lemon wedges, to serve

fresh coriander leaves, to serve

Wash the chicken and remove the neck and giblets. Pat dry with paper towel inside and out. Rub inside the chicken with the combined salt and ¼ teaspoon of the five-spice powder.

Put 1.5 litres (6 cups) water in a large saucepan with the cayenne pepper, cinnamon and remaining five-spice powder and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and pour over the chicken in a bowl. Set aside.

Put 1 litre (4 cups) water in a clean saucepan with the honey and lemon slices and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat.

Drain the chicken from the first mixture and put it in a colander. Pour the honey mixture over the top of the chicken, making sure it comes into contact with all parts of the skin. Put the chicken on a wire rack in front of an electric fan to dry for 1 hour or until all the skin is dry to the touch.

Just before serving, heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Tie the legs of the chicken together, leaving some string to hold it with, and lower the bird into the hot oil. With a ladle, spoon the oil over the chicken as it cooks, and turn it so that it is cooked and brown on all sides, about 12–15 minutes. Test by piercing with a fine skewer where the thigh joins the body — if the juice runs clear the chicken is done. Lift onto a board using a slotted spoon and cut the chicken in half lengthways with a heavy meat cleaver. Place each half, cut side down, on the board and chop into 2.5 cm strips, then reassemble the bird on a serving dish.

Serve with some combined salt and five-spice powder and lemon wedges. Garnish with the coriander and serve immediately. The pieces of chicken are sprinkled with the spice mix and lemon juice by the diners before eating, according to taste.

EASTERN-STYLE CROQUETTES

MAKES: ABOUT 18

2 tablespoons oil, plus extra for deep-frying

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

500 g minced (ground) beef

1½ teaspoons salt, plus extra to taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra, to taste

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

6 spring onions, finely chopped

1 kg potatoes, boiled and mashed

1 egg, beaten

dry breadcrumbs, for coating

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and chilli and stir-fry until soft. Add the ground coriander, cumin and beef and cook, breaking up any large lumps of meat, until the meat changes colour. Add the salt and pepper, cover, and cook until meat is tender. (There should be no liquid left when the meat is cooked.) Stir in the coriander leaves and allow to cool. When cold stir in the spring onion.

Season the mashed potato with salt and pepper, to taste. Take 2 tablespoons of mashed potato in one hand, flatten slightly, then put 1 tablespoon of meat mixture in the centre. Mould the potato around the meat to form an oval shape, known as a croquette, enclosing the meat. Set aside on a large tray and repeat with the remaining meat and potato.

Heat the extra oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Dip each croquette first in the egg, then in the breadcrumbs shaking off any excess. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the croquettes, in batches, until golden brown. Drain on paper towel and serve hot with chilli sauce.

FRIED PORK WITH RICE VERMICELLI

SERVES: 4

250 g fine rice vermicelli

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

155 g (1 cup) cubed raw potato

2 onions, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

250 g pork belly, skin removed and meat diced

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

¼ teaspoon salt

3 teaspoons sugar

Soak the rice vermicelli according to the packet instructions, then drain well.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the potato and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and continue stir-frying until the potato is golden all over. Remove to a plate.

Add the onion and garlic to the wok and stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add the pork and stir-fry for a further 5 minutes, or until the pork is cooked and golden brown. Combine the soy sauce and 125 ml (½ cup) water and add half of this mixture to the wok with the vermicelli. Continue cooking until the water is absorbed, then add the remaining sauce and water with the pepper, salt and sugar, and stir until the liquid is almost all absorbed, taking care not to let the vermicelli stick to the base of the wok. Stir in the potatoes and heat through. Serve hot.

PORK WITH SICHUAN VEGETABLES

SERVES: 3–4

125 g rice vermicelli

2 tablespoons oil

250 g pork loin, diced

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 tablespoons chopped tinned sichuan vegetables

5 leaves Chinese cabbage (wong bok), sliced

1 teaspoon light soy sauce

185 ml (¾ cup) pork stock or water

Soak the rice vermicelli according to the packet instructions, then drain well.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium–high heat. Add the pork and stir-fry until brown and crisp. Drain on paper towel.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the pan and cook the garlic, ginger and mustard greens over medium heat until the garlic and ginger are soft and golden. Add the cabbage and stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add the soy sauce and stock and bring to the boil. Add the rice vermicelli and cook until all of the liquid is absorbed. Stir through the pork until heated through. Serve hot.

PORK OR BEEF SATAY

SERVES: 4

1 strip lemon zest

2 onions, roughly chopped

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1–2 tablespoons oil

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons roasted peanuts

500 g pork fillet or rump steak, cut into small cubes

Soak 8 bamboo skewers in cold water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Put the lemon zest, onion, soy sauce and 1 tablespoon of the oil into a food processor and process until smooth, then add the remaining ingredients, except the meat, and blend for a few seconds longer, adding the remaining oil if necessary. Pour over the meat in a bowl, tossing to coat, and leave to marinate for at least 1 hour.

Thread about 6 cubes of meat onto each skewer and grill over glowing coals or under a preheated griller until brown all over and the meat is cooked. Serve with peanut sauce, white rice and a salad.

BARBECUE-STYLE PORK WITH BLACK BEANS

SERVES: 6

3 garlic cloves, crushed with

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

1 tablespoon tinned salted black beans, rinsed and chopped

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese barbecue (char siu) sauce

750 g boneless pork loin, trimmed and cut into thin strips

1 tablespoon peanut oil

Combine all of the ingredients, except for the pork and oil in a bowl. Add the pork, toss to coat and leave to marinate for at least 15 minutes. Drain, reserving the marinade.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the pork and stir-fry until browned, then add the reserved marinade and 125 ml (½ cup) hot water. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30–40 minutes, or until the pork is tender — you may need to add more hot water if the liquid looks like it is drying up. Be careful that the sweet marinade does not burn. The heat should be very low throughout the cooking. Serve hot with plain white rice.

SPICED SPARERIBS

SERVES: 6

This recipe is a favourite of mine, as not only is it easy to prepare, but the flavour so special and it can be prepared a day ahead. When required, grill the spareribs a few minutes on each side, just to heat through. The best way to enjoy spareribs is to pick them up with your fingers.

4 garlic cloves, crushed with 1½ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon sesame oil

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

1.5 kg pork spareribs, separated (ask your butcher to do this)

plum sauce, to serve

Preheat the oven to 180°C (Gas 4). Combine the garlic, pepper, five-spice powder, honey, sesame oil and soy sauce in a bowl. Add the spareribs and rub well to coat. Put the spareribs in a roasting tin and cook in the oven for 30 minutes, then turn the spareribs over, add 125 ml (½ cup) hot water to the tin and continue roasting for a further 30 minutes, basting with the liquid every 10 minutes or so.

Alternatively, heat 1–2 tablespoons peanut oil in a large heavy-based frying pan and brown the spareribs on all sides. Add the hot water, cover, and simmer for 30–35 minutes, or until tender and cooked through.

Serve hot with rice and plum sauce.

SAMBAL BABI

Pork and hot spices in coconut milk

SERVES: 6–8

Sambals are traditionally hot and spicy, but they needn’t be. Even without chilli this curry is very rich and intensely flavoured. The coconut milk smooths out the strong flavours. Once you know your chilli tolerance you can adjust the chilli content to suit.

750 g pork belly

375 ml (1½ cups) thick coconut milk

1 stem lemongrass, bruised, or 1 strip lemon zest

1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh galangal or laos (dried galangal) powder

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 small onions, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, crushed

1–2 teaspoons chilli powder

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1–2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste

1 teaspoon salt

Cut the pork, skin and all, into small cubes. Put the pork, and all of the other ingredients into a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly — this prevents the coconut milk curdling. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the pork is tender and the liquid is almost absorbed, stirring frequently.

Serve with white rice and other accompaniments, such as cooling salads. Reduce the quantity of chilli if a less volcanic result is preferred.

ROJAK

SERVES: 8–10

1 telegraph (long) cucumber, peeled, seeded and thinly sliced

1 small pineapple, skin and core removed, flesh diced

3 fresh red or green chillies, seeded and thinly sliced

salt

Dressing

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste, or to taste

3 tablespoons Chinese vinegar or other mild vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons sambal ulek or crushed fresh chillies

lemon juice, to taste

Combine the cucumber, pineapple and chilli in a bowl and sprinkle lightly with salt.

To make the dressing, wrap the dried shrimp paste in a piece of foil and roast under a preheated griller (broiler) for 5 minutes, turning halfway through. Unwrap and add to a bowl with the vinegar, stirring to dissolve. Add the sugar and sambal ulek, and season with salt and lemon juice, to taste.

Pour the dressing over the pineapple mixture and toss to coat or serve the dressing separately.

SATAY SAUCE

MAKES: 2 CUPS

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, sliced and crushed, or 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste

175 g (1¼ cups) roasted peanuts

2 tablespoons tamarind pulp

1 teaspoon chilli powder

1½ teaspoons laos (dried galangal) powder

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a food processor with the lemongrass, onion, garlic and dried shrimp paste and process to a paste. Scrape out the food processor, reserving the onion mixture and then process the peanuts until finely crushed. Set aside.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 250 ml (1 cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Heat the remaining oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion mixture and stir until heated through, then add the chilli powder, laos powder, tamarind liquid, sugar, salt and peanuts. Simmer for about 8 minutes, stirring until thickened, then use as directed.

CHILLI SAUCE

This chilli sauce may be sweet but it still packs a punch, especially if you leave the seeds in the chillies.

MAKES: 3 CUPS

250 g fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

660 g (3 cups) sugar

750 ml (3 cups) white vinegar

385 g (2¼ cups) sultanas

8 garlic cloves

3 teaspoons salt, or to taste

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

Put the chilli in a food processor with just enough of the vinegar to facilitate processing.

Transfer to a large stainless-steel saucepan, add the remaining ingredients and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the sultanas and chilli are very soft. Cool, then transfer to a food processor and process to a smooth purée. Pour into sterilised airtight jars and store for up to 6 months.

Note: You can use 50 g (½ cup) chilli powder instead of fresh chillies if fresh are unavailable.

ALMOND BISCUITS

MAKES: ABOUT 16

Lard, along with dripping, was once widely used in Western cuisines until we became conscious of cholesterol levels, and animal fats were replaced by unsaturated vegetable oils. However, nothing else will give these biscuits their unique texture and flavour. If you can’t eat lard, try replacing it with extra virgin coconut oil. It’s not the same, but delicious in its own way.

125 g lard, softened, or 125 ml (½ cup) coconut oil

110 g (½ cup) caster sugar

1 teaspoon natural almond extract

3–4 drops yellow food colouring (optional)

225 g (1½ cups) plain flour

8 blanched almonds

1 egg yolk

Preheat the oven to 160°C (Gas 2–3). Lightly grease two baking trays.

Beat together the lard and sugar until light and creamy. Add the almond extract and, if liked, a little colouring. Gradually add the flour, stirring well to combine. After adding the last of the flour it will be necessary to work the mixture with your hands, but it will still be a crumbly consistency.

Take 1 tablespoon of the mixture at a time and shape into flat circles with a 5 cm diameter — the edges of each circle will have little cracks in them. Place on the prepared trays.

Put the almonds in a small saucepan with enough water to cover and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat, drain well, then split each almond in half.

Press an almond into the centre of each biscuit. Beat together the egg yolk and 1 tablespoon water and brush over the top of each biscuit. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes, or until pale golden. Cool slightly on the trays, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 10 days.

AGAR-AGAR JELLY

SERVES: 6

1 tablespoon agar-agar powder

220 g (1 cup) sugar

3–4 drops red food colouring

3–4 drops rosewater

½ teaspoon natural vanilla extract

3–4 drops green food colouring

3–4 drops natural almond extract

Put 1.5 litres (6 cups) water into a saucepan with the agar-agar powder and bring to the boil. Boil for about 5–10 minutes, or until the agar-agar dissolves. Add the sugar and stir until it dissolves. Remove from the heat.

Pour 500 ml (2 cups) of the liquid into a jug (reserving the remaining liquid in the warm pan). Colour the liquid pink with the red food colouring and add the rosewater to flavour. Pour into a glass serving bowl rinsed with cold water and refrigerate for a few minutes to set.

As soon as the first layer sets pour 500 ml (2 cups) of the warm liquid into the jug and flavour with the vanilla extract. Pour gently over the first pink layer of jelly and refrigerate until set.

Put the remaining liquid into the jug, colour it pale green with the green food colouring and add the almond extract for flavour. Spoon over the first two layers, then refrigerate until ready to serve.

TOFFEE APPLES

MAKES: 24 PIECES

These toffee apples are thick slices of apple fried in batter, then dropped into a sugar glaze with black sesame seeds, hardened quickly in a bowl of iced water and eaten with chopsticks.

1 egg, lightly beaten

150 g (1 cup) plain flour

peanut oil, for deep-frying

3 cooking apples, such as Granny Smith or Pink Lady, peeled, cored and cut into eight wedges each ice cubes and water, for dipping

Glaze

225 g (1½ cups) sugar

2 teaspoons black sesame seeds

Beat together the egg and 170 ml (⅔ cup) water in a bowl until combined, then tip in all the flour at once and beat vigorously until the batter is smooth — do not overbeat. Set aside.

To make the glaze, put the sugar and 125 ml (½ cup) cold water into a small saucepan over medium–high heat. Do not stir or the sugar will crystallize and the glaze will not be clear. Let the sugar mixture bubble until it starts to turn faintly golden around the edges of the pan. Stir in the sesame seeds and reduce the heat to as low as possible. Or remove the pan from the heat, replacing it from time to time if the sugar begins to harden before the apples have been dipped.

While you are preparing the glaze, heat the peanut oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat — ideally the oil for deep-frying and the sugar glaze should be ready at the same time. Drop pieces of apple into the batter, one at a time, turning to coat, then use chopsticks to gently lower them into the hot oil. Deep-fry until the batter is golden, then lift out with a slotted spoon and put straight into the saucepan containing the hot glaze, turning to coat. Lift out, then drop straight into a bowl containing cold water and ice cubes. The glaze will harden and become brittle almost at once. Lift them out quickly and put on a lightly oiled serving plate.

Serve and eat as soon as possible. If left to stand too long the glaze will melt and the batter will become leathery.

SILVER FUNGUS IN SWEET SOUP

SERVES: 6

3 tablespoons silver fungus (glossary)

120 g (¾ cup) crushed rock sugar or white sugar

670 g tinned longans, lychees or palm seeds in syrup

12 ice cubes

Soak the silver fungus in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain well.

Put the silver fungus into a saucepan with the sugar and 500 ml (2 cups) water and bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, then refrigerate until well chilled.

Before serving, combine the fruits and chilled syrup in a serving bowl and add the ice cubes. Alternatively, you can serve warm or at room temperature and omit the ice cubes.

BURMA

I was too young to remember my first visit to my grandmother’s home in Rangoon, Burma, but the second visit, which lasted a year, has left a medley of impressions. My most vivid memories of Burma are of glittering golden pagodas and delicious food. I recall saving my pocket money to buy snacks from the vendors who streamed through the suburban streets calling their wares. In the evenings we often visited the bazaar where the streets were lined with food stalls of every kind.

Snacks, sweets, cool drinks, complete meals — each stall specialised in one particular item. What I liked best was fresh sugar cane juice, extracted from cane crushed between large, shiny steel rollers and poured on to ice clinking in tall glasses.

My mother, who was born in Mandalay, had left Burma as a young bride to live in Sri Lanka (then Ceylon), so Burma was a country new and fascinating to me. It was during this second visit that I first met Aunt Connie, my mother’s youngest sister. She made an impression at least as deep and lasting as those made by my favourite foods.

The next time we met was in England, where I had been sent to finish my education. Happily, Connie was spending a year there and I lived with her delightful family in a beautiful country house, one of the happiest times of my life.

Because she lived for many years in Burma and cooked delicious Burmese food, I asked for her help in making this chapter the best possible source of information on Burmese food. Thanks to my wonderful aunt, Constance Hancock, and Mrs Ida Htoon Phay I have added to the Burmese recipes learned from my mother and grandmother. ‘Cooking should not be a chore,’ wrote Connie. ‘The busy housewife must use her head and try to make life a little easier for herself if she wants to venture into exotic cooking. So, in order not to spend a fortune on air-fresheners every time she prepares strong-smelling foods, it is useful to know that onions, garlic and curry ingredients can be cooked in large quantities and stored in jars or in the freezer.

’One cup (250 g) of curry ingredients is sufficient for a 1.5 kg chicken or 750 g of beef, lamb or pork. As fish and meat curries are made from the same basic curry ingredients there is no problem. To the basic ingredients I add, as the recipe requires, other spices or herbs which make the dish taste the way it should.’

Family and friends who turned up unexpectedly would be amazed that she could start from scratch and produce a whole meal in less than an hour. The dish that took longest to cook would be started first and so on. She’d always have a supply of crisp fried brown onions and garlic, pounded dried prawns and balachaung, as well as hot mango pickles and chutneys. Her deep freezer would hold treasures like chopped coriander leaves and green and red capsicums (peppers) cut into pieces, so she could take out only what was required.

SERVING AND EATING A BURMESE MEAL

The cornerstone of a Burmese meal is, as elsewhere in Asia, a dish of perfectly cooked, steaming hot, fluffy rice. This is brought to the table just before or after guests are seated so that it will be hot. The soup too is always piping hot, but for the rest, the dishes are placed on the table beforehand and many of the accompaniments are served at room temperature.

A table set for a meal is a colourful sight. The various dishes served should complement or contrast. Plain soups with rich, oily curries; stronger soups with mild dishes. There should always be one chilli condiment; one raw salad of leaves, fruit or vegetables; one soup; one, two or three curries of meat, fish, prawns or eggs; perhaps a bowl of lentils, a homemade pickle, and almost always that Burmese favourite, balachaung. There is no set rule as to which dishes should be served together, so an unlimited number of combinations is possible. The table is set with plates for the rice, bowls and porcelain spoons for soup. It is customary to eat a Burmese meal with the fingers, but nowadays spoons and forks are also used. There are some Burmese meals, though, that must be eaten with the fingers — read about lethoke. In this case a bowl of hot water, soap and a towel are placed on a side table for hand washing before one is seated.

When one does begin, it is polite to start with small portions. Not too much rice first, then one tiny helping from one of the dishes to be mixed with the rice and tasted, then something from another dish, and so on. When all the dishes have been sampled, the decision is made whether to stick to one particular dish or to combine various flavours. Spoonfuls of soup are taken between mouthfuls of rice and curries. After the meal the hands are washed again. Fruit or a cooling sweet and cups of steaming hot tea follow.

There are certain Burmese meals where a one-dish speciality is featured, such as moh hin gha, kaukswe or htamin lethoke. These are do-it-yourself specials where rice or noodles is served with flavoursome accompaniments and you create your own masterpiece. When you sit down to this kind of meal there is no guarantee that your food will taste exactly like the next person’s. You will help yourself from the same dishes, but from there on it becomes an improvisation. Do you want a gently seasoned meal? Or one so hot it brings tears to your eyes? There will be chopped fresh coriander leaves, garlic slices fried crisp and golden, piquant tamarind water, hot chilli powder or fried whole chillies, brilliant red chilli oil, rich brown fried onions, sliced spring onions, nutty-flavoured roasted chickpea powder. Depending on the proportions in which you add these you create a taste sensation made to order — just as you like it. If you feel you need help, it is considered quite the thing to do to ask someone if you can taste their meal — or ask them to taste yours and advise on what is needed, or even to mix your portion for you … all delightfully informal.

BURMESE CURRIES

The ingredients basic to all Burmese curries never vary — onion, garlic, ginger, chilli and turmeric. The chilli can be used in powder form, or whole dried chillies can be ground with the other ingredients, but chilli is used sparingly and may be omitted. To make a curry for four people using 750 g of meat, fish or poultry, here is a well-balanced mixture: 1 large onion, 2–3 garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger, ½ teaspoon ground turmeric and ¼ teaspoon chilli powder, using 2–3 tablespoons oil, for frying.

Animal fat of any sort is never used. Light sesame oil is best for capturing the true Burmese flavour. If corn, peanut, sunflower or other vegetable oil is used, add a small amount of Chinese-style dark sesame oil for flavour in the proportions of 1 teaspoon sesame oil to 1 tablespoon vegetable oil.

There is only one way to cook these basic ingredients in order to achieve a mellow flavour in which no single ingredient predominates. Grind to a purée the onion, garlic and ginger. In the absence of the Asian grinding stone, this is best done in a food processor, first chopping the ingredients roughly. It will be necessary to stop the motor frequently and scrape down the sides. When puréed, smoothly mix in the turmeric and chilli powder.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the ground ingredients, then reduce the heat and stir well to combine. Cover the pan and simmer the mixture, lifting the lid frequently to stir and scrape the base of the pan with a wooden spoon. This initial frying takes at least 15 minutes. If the mixture cooks too rapidly and begins to stick before the smell has mellowed and the onions become translucent, add a small quantity of water from time to time and stir well. When the water content of the onion has evaporated and the ingredients turn a rich red-brown colour with oil showing around the edge, the first stage of cooking, and the most important one, is complete.

There is a Burmese term to describe this – see byan, meaning ‘oil returned’, that is, with the water completely evaporated and the oil returned to just oil. The basic ingredients will not have the required flavour unless this procedure is followed. The meat, fish or vegetables added will release their own juices while cooking slowly in the pan with the lid on. A roasting chicken will be sufficiently cooked by the time its own juices have evaporated. Boiling fowls, duck, some cuts of beef and pork may need a little water added from time to time as cooking continues until they are tender. Fish and prawns cook very quickly but some types may need a little more fish stock, water or coconut milk added. Vegetables seldom require any added liquid, but if a wetter result is preferred add water or coconut milk.

BURMESE SWEETS

Burmese meals do not include desserts, but fresh fruits in season are served after a meal. Between meals, however, sweets are eaten to satisfy a sweet tooth, or taken in the form of a cooling drink such as moh-let-saung . Then there is durian preserve (just as strong smelling as the fruit and arousing as much passionate discussion), mango preserve, wild plums cooked in palm sugar treacle and palm sugar toffee.

Agar-agar is the base of many jelly preparations. They are much firmer than jellies served in Western countries. There are also a number of cakes, fritters, doughnuts and steamed sponges made from finely ground rice flour and sweetened with palm sugar. They may be served with palm sugar treacle, freshly grated coconut, toasted sesame seeds and quite often a pinch of salt. The contrast is surprisingly pleasant. Unlike Indian sweetmeats, Burmese specialities are only slightly sweet.

Most Burmese sweets, snacks and drinks are prepared and sold by professional sweet makers, and each sweet maker specialises in only one variety. They are not made at home, for they require special equipment and hours of preparation. The very mention of moh sein boung (steamed sponge cake) is enough to make an expatriate Burmese go misty eyed. This is a beautiful, light-textured rice flour sponge steamed in tall moulds in two layers of white and brown — the brown gets its colour from palm sugar. Hawked through the streets at breakfast time, it is eaten off banana leaves with a sprinkle of grated coconut and a mixture of crushed toasted sesame seeds and salt — not very sweet or rich, but very satisfying.

UTENSILS

Like other Asian kitchens, that of a Burmese household is simply equipped. A brick fireplace for charcoal or wood fires, or a portable charcoal brazier; a selection of pots and pans, nothing that cannot be replaced by a Westernstyle utensil except the ‘dare-oh’, a rounded, deep pan in heavy iron with two handles, similar to the Chinese wok; the large flat grinding stone, a stone mortar and pestle and the usual colander, sieve, wooden and bamboo spatulas, skewers and ladles, sharp choppers and knives. Every recipe in this chapter can be prepared without any special equipment except, perhaps, a wok. As I have said in other chapters, the cook’s best friend when handling ingredients that would, in the country of origin, be prepared on the grinding stone, is a powerful and efficient food processor or electric blender.

YOUR BURMESE SHELF

This is a list of spices, sauces, sambals and other flavourings which are often used in Burmese cooking and good to have on hand to make the recipes in this chapter.

besan (chickpea flour)

cardamom, ground

cellophane (bean starch) noodles

chilli powder

cloves, ground

coconut, desiccated

coconut milk

corn oil or peanut oil

cumin, ground

dried prawn powder

dried seaweed (kyauk pwint) (see note)

dried shrimp

dried shrimp paste

egg noodles

fish sauce

paprika, ground

rice vermicelli

roasted chickpeas (see note)

sesame oil

sesame seeds

shiitake mushrooms, dried

soy sauce, light and dark

turmeric, ground

wood fungus, dried

Note: Roasted chickpeas are available from Mediterranean or Middle Eastern grocery stores. If you can’t find the Burmese dried seaweed (kyauk pwint), substitute with the Japanese variety; known as hijiki.

HTAMIN

Rice

Always use long-grain rice for Burmese meals. Allow 200 g (1 cup) rice for 2 or 3 people. For every 200 g of long-grain rice allow 500 ml (2 cups) water. For each cup of rice additional to the first cup, allow 375 ml (1½ cups) water:

200 g (1 cup) rice // 500 ml (2 cups) water

400 g (2 cups) rice // 875 ml (3½ cups) water

600 g (3 cups) rice // 1.25 litres (5 cups) water

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Put the rice and water into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, give it a good stir, then cover and cook for 20 minutes, without lifting the lid or stirring, until the rice is tender and all the liquid has been absorbed.

SEE HTAMIN

Oil rice

SERVES: 4–6

400 g (2¼ cups) glutinous rice

1½ teaspoons ground turmeric

3 large onions, thinly sliced

125 ml (½ cup) oil

2 teaspoons salt

75 g (½ cup) lightly toasted sesame seeds, bruised and mixed with salt

Wash the rice well and drain in colander for 30 minutes. Sprinkle the turmeric over the onion in a bowl and toss lightly.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until brown. Remove two-thirds of the onion and set aside.

Add the rice to the pan and stir well to coat, then add 1 litre (4 cups) water and salt and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender and the water is absorbed. Some people like a crust on the rice — leave the rice over low heat for 5–10 minutes longer until a slight crackling sound is heard. Serve garnished with fried onion, accompanied by the sesame seeds. Serve by itself, not with curries.

OHN HTAMIN

Coconut rice

SERVES: 6

500 g (2½ cups) long-grain rice

1.25 litres (5 cups) thin coconut milk

2½ teaspoons salt

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Put the rice, coconut milk and salt into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, give it a good stir, then cover and cook for 20 minutes, without lifting the lid or stirring. If all the coconut milk is not absorbed at the end of this time stir very lightly around the edges of the pan with a fork, just to mix in the milk, replace the lid and continue cooking over low heat for a further 5–10 minutes. Serve hot with any of the Burmese curries, fried prawns or pork oil, pickles and pounded prawn paste.

KYAZAN

Cellophane noodles

SERVES: 6–8

The main ingredient in this dish (pronounced ‘chah-zan’) is cellophane (bean starch) noodles, fine translucent and with no flavour of their own, they are flavoured by what you eat with them. They are served with chicken noodle curry and appropriate accompaniments.

375 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, drop in the noodles and cook for 20 minutes. Drain. Serve in a large bowl.

Serving is easier if the noodles are cut into shorter lengths with a sharp knife or with kitchen scissors.

Each person puts some noodles in a bowl, ladles the chicken curry or some soup over the top and adds whichever accompaniments are desired.

HTAMIN LETHOKE

Rice mixed with fingers

SERVES: 6

The literal translation of the Burmese name suggests what to expect. Each person helps himself to one or more of the main ingredients and some of each of the accompaniments. The only way to really enjoy this type of food is to use one’s fingers to mix and eat it. It is a fun thing, and although the ingredients are numerous, very little cooking is involved. If a stock of the basics is kept in the pantry, a ’lethoke’ meal can be served in next to no time.

200 g (1 cup) long-grain rice

2 fresh red chillies or 1 teaspoon chilli powder

2 tablespoons oil

125 g rice vermicelli

60 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

125 g fine egg noodles

3 large potatoes, boiled, peeled and sliced

60 g dried seaweed (kyauk pwint) (optional), soaked in boiling water for 10 minutes, then drained

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed and blanched

Accompaniments

250 ml (1 cup) oil

3 eggs, lightly beaten

10 onions, thinly sliced

20 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

125 ml (½ cup) tamarind pulp

1 cup dried prawn powder

1 cup roasted ground chickpeas (see note)

2 tablespoons chilli powder

125 ml (½ cup) fish sauce

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Put the rice and 500 ml (2 cups) water into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, give it a good stir, then cover and cook for 20 minutes, without lifting the lid or stirring, until the rice is tender and all the liquid has been absorbed — it should be dry and fluffy.

Pound the chillies to a paste, then place in a frying pan with the oil and 2 tablespoons water and cook over low heat. When the chilli smells cooked, mix with the boiled rice and set aside.

Boil the rice vermicelli for 2 minutes, or until tender. Drain and set aside. Cook the cellophane noodles in a saucepan of boiling water until tender, then drain and set aside. Cook the egg noodles in a saucepan of boiling water until just tender. Drain and refresh immediately in cold water so that the noodles do not stick together.

All of the main ingredients for lethoke are served cold. Arrange the rice, noodles, potato, seaweed, if using, and bean sprouts separately on a serving platter. The accompaniments in their individual bowls are placed on the table.

To make the accompaniments, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Pour in half of the egg to make an omelette, then remove to a plate. Repeat with the remaining egg. When cool, slice into fine strips.

Put half of the onion in a bowl and wash well in cold water, then drain well and place in a serving dish.

Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the remaining onion and half of the garlic and cook in the oil until light brown, then transfer to a serving bowl. The remaining garlic can be placed into a small bowl and served raw for intrepid garlic eaters.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 375 ml (1½ cups) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Place in a serving dish.

Put the dried prawn powder, ground chickpeas, chilli powder and fish sauce into separate serving dishes and serve.

Note: Use roasted chickpeas from Middle Eastern grocery stores, ground to a powder.

MOH HIN GHA

Rice vermicelli with fish soup

SERVES: 6–8

The national dish of Burma, ’moh hin gha’, is to the Burmese what onion soup is to the French. Bowls of ’moh hin gha’ are a popular snack sold at roadside stalls or by vendors who carry their cooking apparatus from house to house on a bamboo pole slung over one shoulder. At one end is the portable fireplace while on the other are all the makings.

While the base of the dish is a curried fish soup, a vital ingredient is the tender heart of a banana tree — common as grass in Burma, but rather hard to come by elsewhere. If you have access to a spare banana tree and are determined to make this dish in the true Burmese fashion, protect your hands with gloves and put on your oldest clothes, because sap from banana trees leaves a stain that defies the best stain removers science has to offer. Use about 30 cm of the tender heart. Peel off the outer layer and discard. Thinly slice the inner portion widthways. Soak in a large basin of salted water for several hours. The sticky juice forms strong hair-like strands. Pull these away and discard. Realising that for most people the idea of getting a banana tree to use in this dish makes the whole thing rather remote, I have suggested using thinly sliced bamboo shoots instead.

500 g strong-flavoured fish fillets or 2 tins herrings in tomato sauce (ketchup)

4 onions, roughly chopped

6 garlic cloves, peeled

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder

2 tablespoons sesame oil

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

2 fresh chillies, seeded and chopped

1 litre (4 cups) thin coconut milk

1 banana heart or 255 g tinned bamboo shoots

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon besan (chickpea flour)

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

2 tablespoons lemon juice

500 g rice vermicelli or fine egg noodles

Accompaniments:

spring onion, thinly sliced

fresh coriander leaves

white onion, thinly sliced

roasted ground chickpeas (glossary)

crisp fried noodles, broken into small pieces

fried onion flakes

garlic cloves, thinly sliced and deep-fried in oil until golden

lemon wedges

dried red chillies, deep-fried whole in oil for 5 seconds

chilli powder

Put the fish in a frying pan with just enough water to cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain and set aside, reserving the stock.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric and chilli powder into a food processor and process to a purée.

Heat the sesame and peanut oils in a large saucepan and cook the onion mixture and chillies over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the oil returns and the mixture starts to stick to the pan. Add the fish stock, thin coconut milk and banana heart. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the banana heart slices are tender. Dissolve the dried shrimp paste in the fish sauce and add to the pan. Mix the besan smoothly with a little cold water or some of the thick coconut milk and add to the pan, stirring constantly as it comes to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, add the fish, thick coconut milk and lemon juice, stirring until heated through. Season with salt, to taste.

Cook the noodles in a saucepan of boiling water until tender. Drain and serve in a large bowl alongside the soup. Have small bowls with accompaniments ready on the table. Noodles are served first and soup ladled over the top. Moh hin gha must be served piping hot.

HIN

Burmese soups

In Burma, a light-bodied piping hot soup is served at both main meals of the day. It can be a clear mild soup or a sour peppery soup, depending on the weather or the other items on the menu. These soups are not served as a first course, but for sipping throughout a meal.

HIN CHO

Mild soup

SERVES: 4–6

Any of the following vegetables may be used in this recipe: thinly sliced marrow, zucchini (courgette), pumpkin, okra, cauliflower florets, cabbage, Chinese cabbage or other leaves.

1–1.5 litres (4–6 cups) stock or water

2 onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon dried prawn powder or 3 raw prawns, peeled and deveined

3 whole black peppercorns

¼ teaspoon dried shrimp paste (optional)

200–300 g mixed vegetables

Put the stock in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the onion, dried prawn powder, peppercorns and dried shrimp paste, if using, and boil for 5 minutes.

Add the mixed vegetables and raw prawns, if using, to the he pan — pumpkin and cauliflower may take about 5 minutes to o cook sufficiently, but most other vegetables should be donee in about 3 minutes. Add salt, to taste, and serve hot.

HIN GHA

Strong soup

SERVES: 4–6

1–1.5 litres (4–6 cups) stock or water

2 onions, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon dried prawn powder or 3 raw prawns, peeled and deveined

3 whole black peppercorns

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon dried shrimp paste (optional)

200–300 g (2–3 cups) mixed chopped vegetables

Put the stock in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the onion, garlic, dried prawn powder, peppercorns, pepper and dried shrimp paste, if using, and boil for 5 minutes.

Add the mixed vegetables and raw prawns, if using, to the pan — pumpkin and cauliflower may take about 5 minutes to cook sufficiently, but most other vegetables should be done in about 3 minutes. Add salt, to taste, and serve hot.

CHIN HIN

Sour soup

SERVES: 4–6

Sour greens, such as tender young tamarind leaves, are traditionally used to make the stock for this soup (or substitute green tomatoes or rhubarb stalks). If rhubarb stalks are being used, cut them into short lengths and boil, then strain and use the liquid combined with spinach leaves or other green leaves.

2 teaspoons sesame oil or corn oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

2–3 green (unripe) tomatoes, chopped

25 g (1 cup) spinach leaves or other green leaves

1–1.5 litres (4–6 cups) rhubarb stock, fish stock or boiling water

¼ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic and turmeric, stirring for 30 seconds. Add the tomato and spinach, stir well, then add the stock and bring to the boil. Add the dried shrimp paste, cover, and simmer until all of the vegetables are tender. Season with salt, to taste. Serve with rice.

GOORAKA THEE KYAWJET HIN

Choko soup

SERVES: 4–6

2 chokos

1 tablespoon oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon dried shrimp

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

Peel the chokos, halve them lengthways and cut into thin slices.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, choko, dried shrimp, dried shrimp paste and turmeric and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 minutes, then add 1–1.5 litres (4–6 cups) water and simmer for 10 minutes. Season with salt, to taste, and serve hot with rice and curries.

KYAZAIN HIN CHO

Mild soup with cellophane noodles

SERVES: 4

It is difficult to measure a small amount of cellophane noodles by weight as they are so light, or by volume as they are so unwieldy. If in doubt, use a 10 cm bunch of the strands which fits in the crook of your finger.

50 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

1.25 litres (5 cups) chicken or pork stock

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

6 button mushrooms, sliced

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

125 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

1 zucchini (courgette), thinly sliced in discs

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain and cut into short lengths.

Put the stock into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the onion, garlic and noodles and cook until they are swollen and soft. Add the mushroom, soy sauce, prawns and zucchini and cook until the prawns just start to turn pink. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Serve hot.

KYAZAN HIN GHA

Cellophane noodle soup with pepper

SERVES: 4–6

50 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

½ small chicken

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon oil

2 onions, thinly sliced

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

chilli powder, to serve

lemon wedges, to serve

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain and cut into short lengths. Joint the chicken.

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain, cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Put the chicken pieces into a saucepan with the fish sauce and 2 litres (8 cups) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Remove from the heat, drain the chicken, reserving the stock. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, discard the skin and bones and use your fingers to shred the meat into small pieces.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion is soft. Add the pepper, reserved stock, noodles and mushroom. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the chicken and heat through, then add salt, to taste. Remove from the heat, sprinkle with the coriander leaves and spring onion and serve hot, with a small bowl of chilli powder and the lemon wedges served separately for seasoning individual portions.

WET CHE DAUK HINCHO

Pig trotter soup

SERVES: 4

1 pig’s trotter (front preferably)

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

3 onions, finely chopped

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 small handful fresh coriander leaves or celery leaves, chopped

Wash and clean the pig’s trotter, then chop into four pieces. Rub over the soy sauce to coat.

Put the pig’s trotter into a large saucepan with 1 litre (4 cups) water and bring to the boil, removing any scum that rises to the surface. When the trotter is tender, remove it with a slotted spoon, remove the meat, discarding the bones, and return to the soup.

Add the onion and garlic to the stock and continue simmering for a further 10 minutes. Add the coriander leaves and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Serve hot with rice.

SET HINT MYO HINCHO

Twelve varieties soup

SERVES: 6

5 g (¼ cup) dried shiitake mushrooms

5 g (¼ cup) dried wood fungus

2 tablespoons oil

2 onions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

125 g chicken, duck or pork meat, trimmed and thinly sliced

6 slices boiled pork liver

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 small choko

30 g (¼ cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

15 g (¼ cup) shredded cabbage

30 g (¼ cup) shredded cauliflower

30 g (¼ cup) sliced green beans

6 celery leaves

2 spring onions

2 eggs

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well, cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps. Soak the wood fungus in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, meat and pork liver and stir well. Add the soy sauce, cover, and cook for 5 minutes.

Add the choko, bean sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, beans, mushroom, wood fungus, celery leaves and spring onion, cover, and cook until the vegetables are slightly wilted. Add 1 litre (4 cups) water, bring to the boil and continue boiling for 10 minutes. Just before serving add the unbeaten eggs to the rapidly boiling soup and stir. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste, and serve hot.

NGA SOKE LONE HIN

Fish kofta curry

SERVES: 6

My grandmother taught me how to make this delicious fish curry. There is no use pretending it is a quick and easy recipe, but it is the tastiest way of serving fish. For a more delicate dish, poach the fish koftas in simmering water and serve as a fish soup with boiled rice.

Fish koftas

1 kg skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets, such as jewfish or cod

2½ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons lemon juice, strained

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh coriander leaves or dill

2 slices white bread, soaked in hot water and squeezed dry

1 teaspoon anchovy paste (optional)

Curry

60 ml (¼ cup) sesame oil

3 onions, finely chopped

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1½ teaspoons salt

1–2 teaspoons chilli powder (optional)

1 teaspoon paprika (optional)

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 tablespoons lemon juice

To make the kofta, finely mince the fish fillets in a food processor, taking care to remove the bones first. Place in a large bowl and add all of the remaining ingredients. Use your hands to mix together thoroughly and shape into small balls, with a 3 cm diameter — you should make about 24 balls in total.

To make the curry, heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until soft and golden. Add the turmeric, then remove from the heat and add the tomato, salt and the chilli powder and paprika, if using. (In Burmese cooking the amount of chilli used would be enough to give a red colour to the sauce, but the paprika is suggested here as a substitute for a portion of it, with chilli used to suit individual tastes.)

Wrap the dried shrimp paste in a piece of foil and roast under a preheated griller (broiler) for 5 minutes, turning halfway through. Unwrap, dissolve in 375 ml (1½ cups) hot water and add to the pan, stirring until the tomato is soft and pulpy. If the sauce starts to dry out, add a little hot water — there should be enough sauce to almost cover the fish koftas. Gently put the fish koftas in the sauce and simmer over medium heat for about 20 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time, until cooked through. Do not stir until the fish is cooked and firm, or the koftas might break. Stir in the coriander and lemon juice and cook for a further 5 minutes. Serve with white rice and balachaung .

PAZOON HIN

Prawn curry with gravy

SERVES: 4

1 large onion, roughly chopped

1 garlic clove

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder

1 tablespoon sesame oil or corn oil

1 pinch of ground cloves

1 pinch of ground cardamom

1 pinch of ground fennel

1 large potato, diced

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

125 ml (½ cup) thin coconut milk

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 tablespoons chopped spring onions

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric and chilli powder into a food processor and process to a purée.

Heat the sesame oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the onion mixture over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the oil returns and the mixture starts to stick to the pan. Stir in the cloves, cardamom, fennel, potato and tomato, cover and cook for 10 minutes, or until fragrant. Add the thin coconut milk and gently simmer, uncovered, for a further 10 minutes, then add the prawns and thick coconut milk and simmer, stirring frequently for about 3 minutes, or until the prawns are cooked. Add the coriander leaves and cook for a further 3 minutes, then remove from the heat and stir in the spring onion. Season with salt, to taste. Serve hot with white rice and accompaniments.

PAZOON KYAW (1)

Fried prawns

SERVES: 4

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder

16 raw large prawns, peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons peanut oil

Mix together the salt, turmeric and chilli powder in a bowl. Add the prawns and toss to coat in the spice mixture. Thread 4 prawns onto each skewer.

Heat the sesame and peanut oils in a large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Cook the prawn skewers, turning once, until cooked through and golden. Serve hot.

PAZOON KYAW (2)

Stir-fried prawns with vegetables

SERVES: 4

1 tablespoon oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined (halved if large)

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed or 150 g (2 cups) shredded cabbage

2 teaspoons light soy sauce (optional)

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the onion and cook for a few seconds, then add the prawns and bean sprouts and stir-fry for 3 minutes, or until the prawns change colour. Season with salt, freshly ground black pepper and soy sauce, to taste. Serve immediately.

PAZOON SEE BYAN HIN

Dry prawn curry

SERVES: 4

1 large onion, roughly chopped

3–4 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon chilli powder

1 tablespoon light sesame oil or corn oil

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 tablespoons chopped spring onions

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric and chilli powder into a food processor and process to a purée.

Heat the sesame oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the onion mixture over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the oil returns and the mixture starts to stick to the pan. Add the prawns and coriander and cook for 3–4 minutes, or until the prawns turn pink. Stir in the spring onion and serve hot with white rice and accompaniments.

NGA SEE BYAN

Fish curry without gravy

SERVES: 4–6

1 kg firm white fish fillets

¼ teaspoon dried shrimp paste or 2 teaspoons fish sauce

2 onions, roughly chopped

1 garlic clove

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 stem lemongrass or 2 strips lemon zest

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 green chilli, seeded and split lengthways (optional)

60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil

fresh coriander leaves, chopped, to garnish

Cut the fish into serving pieces (see preparing whole fish). Dissolve the shrimp paste in 1 tablespoon hot water and rub over the fish to coat. Set aside.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, salt, turmeric and chilli into a food processor and process to a purée.

Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the onion mixture over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the oil returns and the mixture starts to stick to the pan. Add the fish and cook for 3–4 minutes on each side until cooked through. Sprinkle with the coriander and serve hot.

NGA THA LAUK PAUNG

Soused fish

SERVES: 4

500 g whole fish, such as herring or mackerel, cleaned and scaled, head, fins and tail removed

1 onion, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon finely shredded fresh ginger

5 whole black peppercorns

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 fresh green chilli

vinegar

Preheat the oven to 110°C (Gas ½).

Put the fish in a casserole dish and scatter over the onion, garlic, ginger, peppercorns and salt. Put the chilli on top and add just enough vinegar to cover the fish. Cover the casserole with a tight-fitting lid and seal with a thick dough of flour and water to prevent moisture escaping. Cook the fish for 6 hours — this method of cooking helps to soften the bones.

NGA BAUNG DOKE (1)

Fish steamed in leaves

SERVES: 4

750 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

8 Chinese mustard cabbage (gai choy) or spinach leaves

8 x 20 cm squares banana leaf or foil

2 onions, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

1 tablespoon thick coconut milk

1 tablespoon ground rice

2 teaspoons sesame oil

3–4 sprigs fresh coriander leaves

Cut the fish into eight serving portions (see preparing whole fish). Sprinkle over half of the combined salt, pepper and turmeric. Set aside.

Slice the thick middle rib out of the Chinese cabbage leaves and discard. Scald the banana leaves in boiling water or hold them over a flame to make them pliable.

Put half of the onion into a food processor with the garlic, ginger, chilli powder, if using, and coconut milk and process to a purée. Stir in the remaining salt, pepper and turmeric, then add the ground rice and sesame oil. Pour over the fish and toss to coat.

On each square of banana leaf put a leaf of Chinese mustard cabbage and on it a piece of fish and some of the onion mixture. Top with a few coriander leaves and some of the remaining onion. Wrap the fish first in the cabbage leaf, then make a parcel with the banana leaf. Fasten with short bamboo skewers or wooden toothpicks. Alternatively wrap in foil.

Cook the fish in a steamer basket over gently boiling water for 20–25 minutes. Serve in the leaves. Guests open their parcels on their own plates. Serve with rice and other accompaniments, such as balachaung.

NGA BAUNG DOKE (2)

Sesame coconut fish steamed in leaves

SERVES: 6

1 kg skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

6 x 30 cm squares banana leaf and foil

90 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut

2 garlic cloves

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons lightly toasted sesame seeds

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

juice of ½ lemon

2 tablespoons rice flour

3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Cut the fish into eight serving portions (see preparing whole fish). Scald the banana leaves in boiling water or hold them over a flame to make them pliable.

Put the coconut, garlic and ginger into a food processor with 125 ml (½ cup) hot water and process to a smooth paste. Stir in the sesame seeds, salt, turmeric, pepper, lemon juice, rice flour and coriander leaves.

Put a fish portion on a square of banana leaf, top with 1 tablespoon of the coconut mixture and wrap in a parcel to enclose, then wrap in a layer of foil.

Cook the fish in a steamer basket over gently boiling water for 15 minutes. Serve hot.

PANTHE KAUKSWE

Chicken curry with noodles

SERVES: 6–8

This chicken curry with noodles has a mild curry flavour with lots of gravy. The curry is ladled over a bowl of noodles and served with a number of accompaniments with contrasting flavours. You can use thin egg noodles rather than cellophane noodles if you prefer.

1.5 kg whole chicken or chicken thighs, wings or drumsticks

5 garlic cloves, chopped

3 onions, chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1–2 teaspoons chilli powder

2 teaspoons salt

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

2 tablespoons besan (chickpea flour)

500 g cellophane noodles (kyazan), to serve

accompaniments for moh hin gha

If using a whole chicken, joint it into portions.

Put the garlic, onion, ginger and dried shrimp paste into a food processor and process to make a smooth paste, adding 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil if needed.

Heat the remaining peanut oil and sesame oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the onion mixture and cook for 5 minutes, then add the chicken and continue to cook, stirring constantly. Add the chilli powder, salt and thin coconut milk and simmer until the chicken is tender, adding a little hot water if the mixture becomes too dry. Add the thick coconut milk and bring to the boil, stirring constantly to prevent the mixture from curdling. Mix the besan with just enough cold water to a make a smooth cream, and add to the pan, cooking for a further 5 minutes (there should be a lot of gravy).

Serve the curry and noodles separately. Each person takes a serving of noodles, ladles over a generous amount of the curry and sprinkles the various accompaniments over the top. Everything is mixed together and a lemon wedge squeezed over to add piquancy. The crisp fried chillies are held by the stalk and bitten into (with caution, please, if this is your first attempt) when a hot mouthful is desired.

KAUKSWE KYAW

Mixed fried noodles with chicken

SERVES: 6

500 g egg noodles

125 ml (½ cup) oil

4–5 dried shiitake mushrooms

5 onions, chopped

5 garlic cloves, chopped

500 g chicken breast or thigh fillets, thinly sliced

1 chicken liver, thinly sliced

1 chicken gizzard, parboiled, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

½ cabbage, shredded

¼ white Chinese cabbage (wong bok), shredded

2 celery sticks, finely chopped

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

4 eggs, lightly beaten

Soak the noodles then drain. Cook the noodles in a saucepan of boiling water until tender, then drain. Spread the noodles on a large dish or tray. Pour 2 tablespoons of the oil over the top and toss gently to coat — this stops the noodles sticking to each other.

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain, cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Heat the remaining oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft. Add the chicken meat, liver and gizzard and stir-fry until lightly brown on all sides, then add the soy sauce, cover, and simmer gently until the meat is tender. Add the cabbages, celery, mushroom and spring onion and continue to stir-fry until the vegetables are tender. Remove from the wok and set aside.

Put the noodles in the wok and toss gently for 3 minutes, then remove. In the same wok, scramble the egg, adding a little oil if necessary. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. When ready to serve, spread the noodles in a serving dish, then cover with the meat and vegetables. Garnish with the scrambled egg. Serve hot or cold.

KYAZANGYI KAUKSWE

Large rice noodles with chicken curry

SERVES: 6–8

1.5 kg whole chicken

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons salt

60 ml (¼ cup) fish sauce

375 ml (1½ cups) thick coconut milk

3 large onions, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, crushed

60 g (½ cup) besan (chickpea flour)

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

500 g dried rice noodles or 1 kg fresh rice noodles

2 teaspoons chilli oil

4 hard-boiled eggs, sliced

Joint the chicken into portions.

Put the chicken portions into a saucepan with the turmeric, salt, fish sauce and just enough water to almost cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender. Allow to cool, then strain, reserving the stock. Discard the skin and bones and finely shred the meat.

Put the thick coconut milk into a large saucepan over medium heat and stir constantly until it becomes thick and the oil rises to the top. Add half of the onion and all of the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until they start to colour. Add the chicken and stir constantly, for a few minutes. Set aside.

Mix the besan with just enough cold water to form a thin cream. Add the thin coconut milk to a separate saucepan and when it comes to a boil, stir in the besan mixture. Cook and stir constantly until it thickens, taking care it does not become lumpy or stick to the pan. Gradually add the strained chicken stock until the gravy is as thick as a stew. Add the chicken and onion mixture.

If fresh rice noodles are bought as large sheets, cut them into narrow strips and soak in boiling water to heat through. If using dried noodles, cook them in a saucepan of boiling water until tender. Drain well and place in a serving bowl.

Bring the chicken combination to simmering point, stir in the chilli oil, then remove from the heat and serve immediately with the noodles, egg and remaining onion served separately.

KYETHA HIN

Chicken curry with gravy

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 onions. roughly chopped

1 garlic clove

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, sliced, or 2 strips lemon zest

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

1 large ripe tomato, chopped

2 large potatoes, peeled and cubed or 250 g (2 cups) cauliflower florets

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

Joint the chicken into portions.

Put the onion into a food processor with the garlic, ginger and lemongrass and process to a paste, adding 1 teaspoon of the vegetable oil to make it smooth if needed.

Heat the remaining oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onion mixture with the salt, turmeric and chilli powder, if using, and stir-fry over medium heat, adding a few drops of water if the mixture starts to stick to the pan. Simmer over low heat until the moisture evaporates and the ingredients turn a rich red-brown colour. Add the chicken pieces, turning to coat, then cover and simmer for 15–25 minutes. Add 250 ml (1 cup) water, the tomato, potato, fish sauce and lemon juice and continue cooking for a further 20 minutes, or until the potato is cooked through, stirring occasionally. If using cauliflower, add it when the chicken is nearly done. Add the cardamom and coriander leaves, stir quickly and replace the lid for a few seconds to hold in the aroma. Serve with white rice and other accompaniments.

KYETHA SEE BYAN

Chicken curry without gravy

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 onions, chopped

1 garlic clove, chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, sliced, or 2 strips lemon zest

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder (optional)

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

Joint the chicken into portions.

Put the onion into a food processor with the garlic, ginger and lemongrass and process to a paste, adding 1 teaspoon of the vegetable oil to make it smooth if needed.

Heat the remaining oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onion mixture with the salt, turmeric and chilli powder, if using, and stir-fry over medium heat, adding a few drops of water if the mixture starts to stick to the pan. Simmer over low heat until the moisture evaporates and the ingredients turn a rich red-brown colour. At this stage they will begin to stick to the pan so keep stirring, and add the chicken pieces, turning them well in the mixture so that they are well coated. Cover and simmer for 35–45 minutes, or until the chicken is tender, stirring towards the end of cooking time to prevent sticking. The juices from the chicken will provide sufficient liquid for this curry, so do not add water or other liquid. Add the cardamom and coriander leaves, stir quickly and replace the lid for a few seconds to hold in the aroma. Serve with white rice and other accompaniments.

AME HNAT

Very dry beef curry

SERVES: 4–6

2 large onions

5 large garlic cloves

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder

125 ml (½ cup) light sesame oil or corn oil

750 g stewing steak, cut into 5 cm cubes

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 stems lemongrass, white part only, sliced, or 4 strips lemon zest

1½ teaspoons salt

2 large onions, extra, thinly sliced and deep-fried until crisp

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric and chilli powder into a food processor and process to a purée.

Heat the sesame oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the onion mixture over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the oil returns and the mixture starts to stick to the pan. Add the beef, pepper and lemongrass and continue cooking slowly, until all of the juices from the beef have completely evaporated and the meat is brown. Add 250 ml (1 cup) hot water and the salt, cover, and simmer until the meat is tender, adding more water if necessary. Remove the lid, increase the heat and cook rapidly until the meat is oily-dry and well coated.

Garnish with the fried onions and serve with white rice and accompaniments.

AMETHA NET ALOO HIN

Beef and potato curry

SERVES: 4–6

2 large onions, chopped

5 large garlic cloves, chopped

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder

250 ml (1 cup) light sesame oil or corn oil

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground coriander

750 g stewing steak, cut into 5 cm cubes

1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste

375 g potatoes, peeled and quartered

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric and chilli powder into a food processor and process to a purée.

Heat the sesame oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the onion mixture over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the oil returns and the mixture starts to stick to the pan. Add the cumin and coriander, then add the beef and cook stirring for a few minutes to brown on all sides. Add the salt, potato and 500 ml (2 cups) water and simmer until the meat is tender and the potato is cooked.

Note: You can rub the cumin, coriander and salt into the beef before cooking if you prefer.

Alternative: You can also make a beef and pumpkin curry (amétha net shwephayone thee hin). Simply replace the potato with pumpkin and omit the cumin and coriander – you will only need to use 250 ml (1 cup) water to cook until the pumpkin is soft. In place of pumpkin the following vegetables can be used: tomatoes, green beans, eggplant (aubergine), peas, split peas, okra, cauliflower, kohlrabi, butter beans, broad beans, daikon.

WETHA SEE BYAN

Dry pork curry

SERVES: 4

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

1 large onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder

60 ml (¼ cup) light sesame oil or corn oil

500 g pork belly, trimmed and cut into 5 cm cubes

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, sliced, or 2 strips lemon zest

1 tablespoon fish sauce

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Measure 2 tablespoons of the liquid and set aside.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric and chilli powder into a food processor and process to a purée.

Heat the sesame oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the onion mixture over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the oil returns and the mixture starts to stick to the pan. Add the pork and simmer gently in its own juices until tender. Add the lemongrass, tamarind liquid and fish sauce and stir well, then continue cooking until all of the water has evaporated and the oil separates from the sauce. Serve hot.

Note: The flavour of the curry can be varied by adding extra chilli powder for a hot curry, or stirring in a piece of hot Indian mango pickle. Slices of lemon, chopped fresh coriander leaves or chopped spring onions can be added at the end of cooking, if desired.

WETHANI KYET

Fried pork curry

SERVES: 8–10

You may take one look at the ingredients of this recipe and feel sure there’s been a mistake in the amount of garlic and ginger, but this isn’t so. This favourite Burmese preparation has the most delicious flavour, and is supposed to be a way of preserving pork for months without refrigeration. In our house however, it’s eaten so quickly I haven’t been able to test the theory.

4 onions, roughly chopped

20 garlic cloves

200 g (1 cup) chopped fresh ginger

2 kg pork neck or leg, skin and bones removed, meat cut into 2.5 cm cubes

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons vinegar

1–2 teaspoons chilli powder

185 ml (¾ cup) peanut oil

60 ml (¼ cup) sesame oil

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

Put the onion, garlic and ginger into a food processor and process until well combined. Turn out into a sieve set over a bowl and push with the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible, reserving the solids. Pour this liquid into a large saucepan, add the pork, salt, vinegar, chilli powder and half of the peanut oil and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1–1 ½ hours, or until the pork is almost tender. Remove from the heat.

Heat the remaining peanut oil and sesame oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the reserved onion solids and turmeric and stir-fry until the oil returns and the mixture starts to stick to the pan, about 25 minutes. I find I need to add a tablespoon of water from time to time and to stir frequently to prevent sticking. Halfway through cooking the onion mixture, spoon off some of the oil that has risen to the top of the pork mixture and add it to the onions.

When the mixture is a reddish-brown, add the pork ingredients from the first pan and continue cooking until the oil separates again and the liquid is almost evaporated, stirring frequently. Serve with white rice and accompaniments.

AKYAW

Stir-fried vegetables

SERVES: 6

Choose any of the following vegetables for this simple stir-fry and make sure they are thinly sliced or any leaves are shredded: okra, eggplant (aubergine), marrow (squash), zucchini (courgette), green beans, snow peas (mangetout), carrot, cucumber, cabbage, spinach, bean sprouts or bamboo shoots.

2 teaspoons sesame oil or corn oil

1–2 onions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

300–400 g (3–4 cups) mixed sliced vegetables

fish sauce (optional)

Heat the sesame oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion is soft. Add the vegetables and stir-fry until they are tender but still crisp. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and a sprinkling of fish sauce, to taste. Serve immediately.

HMO KYAW KYET

Mushrooms fried with chicken

SERVES: 6

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

500 g chicken breast or thigh fillets, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

500 g fresh mushrooms, halved if large

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until golden brown. Add the chicken and stir-fry for 2 minutes, on high heat, then reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook for 3 minutes. Add the soy sauce and season with salt, to taste, then add the mushrooms, re-cover, and simmer for 3–4 minutes. Increase the heat and cook uncovered until most of the liquid has evaporated. Serve hot with rice.

THANATSONE

Mixed vegetable salad

SERVES: 6

300 g (3 cups) mixed sliced vegetables

375 ml (1½ cups) vegetable oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 large onions, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon lightly toasted sesame seeds

2 tablespoons white vinegar

Blanch the vegetables in a saucepan of salted boiling water for 1–2 minutes, or until just tender but still crisp. Refresh immediately in cold water to prevent overcooking, then drain well.

Heat the vegetable and sesame oils in a wok or large heavybased frying pan over medium heat. Add the turmeric, onion and garlic and stir-fry until the onion and garlic start to brown. Remove the pan from the heat and continue stirring until they are brown and crisp. When cool, pour a little of the oil over the vegetables, add the onion and garlic and toss lightly to combine, adding salt and vinegar, to taste. Sprinkle over the toasted sesame seeds and serve with rice and curry.

NGA CHAUK

Salt fish

Flat bony salt fish is usually used in hin gha soups or sour curries. Thick fleshy salt fish is cut in cubes and either fried or toasted and served with plain boiled rice and hin cho and other mild dishes.

NGAPI CHET

Shrimp paste sauté

MAKES: 2 CUPS

1 teaspoon tamarind pulp

125 ml (½ cup) vegetable oil

1 onion, chopped

6 garlic cloves, chopped

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste

3–4 tomatoes, quartered

100 g (1 cup) dried prawn powder

2 fresh green chillies, seeded and sliced

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

Soak the tamarind pulp in 1 tablespoon hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and turmeric and stir-fry until dark golden and nearly sticking to the pan. Add the dried shrimp paste, tomato, dried prawn powder, chilli and tamarind liquid and simmer until all the liquid has evaporated and the oil starts to separate. Season with salt, to taste.

NGAPI HTAUNG

Pounded prawn paste

MAKES: 1 CUP

This prawn paste is eaten in very small quantities with rice.

2 tablespoons dried shrimp paste

2 onions, roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves

2 tablespoons dried prawn powder

2 teaspoons chilli powder (optional)

1 teaspoon salt

juice of ½ lemon

Wrap the dried shrimp paste in a piece of foil and roast under a preheated griller (broiler) for 5 minutes, turning halfway through cooking time.

Wrap the onion and garlic in a separate piece of foil and put under the griller with the dried shrimp paste for 10 minutes, or until fragrant.

Unwrap and when cool, use a mortar and pestle to pound with the remaining ingredients, stirring in the lemon juice until well combined.

NGAN PYAYE CHET

Fish sauce sauté

MAKES: 2 CUPS

1 teaspoon oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

250 ml (1 cup) fish sauce

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, sliced, or 2 strips lemon zest, finely chopped

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 spring onions, finely chopped

½ teaspoon chilli powder

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and fry for a few seconds, then add the fish sauce and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and immediately add the lemongrass, garlic, spring onion and chilli powder. Allow to cool before serving.

PAZOON NGABAUNG KYAW

Prawns fried in batter

SERVES: 6

500 g small raw prawns, heads removed (there is no need to peel and devein them if they are as small as they should be)

oil, for deep-frying

Batter

60 g (½ cup) besan (chickpea flour)

75 g (½ cup) self-raising flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

To make the batter, put all of the ingredients in a large bowl with 125 ml (½ cup) water and stir well to combine.

Add the prawns to the batter and toss to coat. Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the prawns, in batches, until golden brown and crisp. Prevent them from sticking to each other by spooning oil over as they are added to the oil. Drain on paper towel and serve warm.

BOOTHI NGABAUNG KYAW

White marrow fried in batter

SERVES: 6

oil, for deep-frying

200–300 g (2–3 cups) peeled, seeded and sliced marrow

1 quantity batter (above)

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Dip the marrow slices into the batter to coat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the marrow, in batches, until golden and crisp. Drain on paper towel and serve immediately. This can be accompanied by fish sauce sauté, for dipping.

PE THEE PIN PAUK NGABAUNG KYAW

Bean sprouts fried in batter

SERVES: 6

1 quantity of batter (opposite)

250 g fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

oil, for deep-frying

Make the batter following the directions opposite. Fold in the bean sprouts to combine. Heat the oil in a wok or large heavybased saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the batter mixture in tablespoonfuls, until golden brown and crisp. Drain on paper towel and serve hot.

THAHNAT

Cucumber pickle

SERVES: 6

2 telegraph (long) cucumbers, peeled, halved and seeded

125 ml (½ cup) malt vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

2 tablespoons sesame oil

8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 onion, thinly sliced or 2 tablespoons dried onion flakes

2 tablespoons lightly toasted sesame seeds

Cut the cucumbers into thick strips, then cut the strips into 5 cm lengths.

Put the vinegar, salt and 500 ml (2 cups) water in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the cucumber and boil just until they look translucent — do not overcook. Drain immediately and leave to cool.

Heat the peanut and sesame oils in a wok or large heavybased frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until pale golden. Remove to a plate. Add the onion and cook until golden. Remove to a plate. When the oil in the pan is cold, dress the cucumbers with 3 tablespoons of the oil, mixing well with the fingers. Put into a small serving dish, add the onion, garlic and sesame seeds, and toss lightly to combine.

WETHA, NGA, PAZOON LONE KYAW

Fried pork, fish or prawn balls

MAKES: ABOUT 30

500 g lean pork meat or skinless, boneless fish fillets or raw prawns, peeled and deveined

1–2 onions, finely chopped

1 fresh green chilli, seeded and finely chopped

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped

salt, to taste

plain flour

oil, for frying

Mince the pork, fish or prawns through the fine blade of a mincer. Add all the remaining ingredients, except the flour and oil, and mix well to combine. Take a tablespoonful of the mixture at a time and shape into little balls. Roll the balls in the flour to coat.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the balls, in batches, turning often, until golden.

BEYAKYAW

Split pea fritters

SERVES: 8

220 g (1 cup) split peas, soaked overnight in water, then drained

2 onions, finely chopped

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and finely chopped

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon salt

oil, for deep-frying

sliced onion and lemon wedges to garnish

Put the split peas in a food processor and process to a paste. Stir in all of the remaining ingredients, except the oil, onion and lemon wedges. Take 1 tablespoon at a time and shape into balls. Flatten each ball to make a 1.5 cm thick patty.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the fritters, in batches, until golden brown. Drain on paper towel. Serve with the sliced onion and lemon wedges.

BALACHAUNG

Oily balachaung

MAKES: 3 CUPS

Balachaung is a preparation of fried dried prawns and is the most popular Burmese accompaniment served with rice.

500 ml (2 cups) peanut oil

4 onions, thinly sliced

20 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

250 g dried prawn powder

2 teaspoons chilli powder (optional)

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

125 ml (½ cup) vinegar

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Cook the onion and garlic separately until golden. Use a slotted spoon to remove each to a plate — they will become crisp and darken as they cool.

Add the dried prawn powder to the wok and stir-fry for 5 minutes, then add the chilli powder, salt and combined dried shrimp paste and vinegar, and continue to stir-fry until crisp. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely. Add the fried onion and garlic, stirring to combine and store in a sterilised airtight jar for up to 4 weeks.

Note: To make a dry balachaung, cook the recipe above but once both the garlic and onion have been fried, remove all but 250 ml (1 cup) of the oil from the pan. All the dried prawn powder should be moistened by the oil. If there is not enough oil, add a spoonful or two from the reserved oil. Remaining oil may be used for flavouring fried rice and other dishes.

MOH LOUNG YE BAW

Teething cake

SERVES: 8

These little dumplings cooked in coconut milk are prepared and traditionally sent to neighbours and friends, or fed to the poor, in celebration of a baby’s first tooth.

150 g (1 cup) plain flour

160 g (1 cup) rice flour

a pinch of salt

½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

1 tablespoon light sesame oil or corn oil

65 g (1 cup) grated fresh coconut

70 g (½ cup) grated palm sugar

1 litre (4 cups) coconut milk

1 tablespoon sugar

Sift the plain and rice flours, salt and bicarbonate of soda into a bowl. Mix thoroughly, then rub in the oil. Add just enough water to make a firm paste, about 170 ml (⅔ cup). Knead well to make a smooth dough.

In a separate bowl, mix together the coconut and palm sugar. Take 1 teaspoon of dough at a time and roll into neat balls. Use your hand to flatten to a circle and put a little of the coconut and palm sugar mixture in the centre. Mould the dough together to seal and re-roll to make a perfect globe.

Put the coconut milk and sugar in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Gently lower the balls into the boiling milk and stir gently until they rise to the surface. Continue to simmer for 10 minutes after they start to float. Serve hot or cold with a little of the coconut liquid, if desired.

MOH-LET-SAUNG

Iced coconut milk with sago

SERVES: 6

195 g (1 cup) sago

100 g (¾ cup) grated palm sugar

ice cubes

1 litre (4 cups) coconut milk

Wash and soak the sago in 1 litre (4 cups) water for 1 hour. Drain well, then transfer to a large saucepan with 750 ml (3 cups) fresh water. Bring to the boil and simmer over medium heat until the sago grains are clear. Cool and refrigerate to chill completely.

Put the palm sugar in a small saucepan with 250 ml (1 cup) water and heat gently until it dissolves. Cool and strain.

For each serving, put 4 tablespoons of chilled sago into a tall glass, add 3 tablespoons of the palm sugar syrup and mix well. Add ice cubes and fill up with coconut milk. Stir and serve.

GIN THOKE

Ginger mix

SERVES: 8

This after-meal digestive is eaten as a snack instead of dessert.

125 g very tender young ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

80–125 ml (⅓–½ cup) lemon juice

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

12 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2–3 tablespoons sesame seeds

Marinate the ginger in a bowl with the lemon juice for at least 1 hour or until the ginger turns pink.

Heat the peanut and sesame oils in a small frying pan. Add the garlic and cook until pale golden. Remove immediately and drain on paper towel. Allow to cool and crisp. Put the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan and toast until golden brown, stirring constantly. Turn onto a plate to cool. Drain the ginger and put it in a bowl. Add salt, to taste, and sprinkle with the garlic and sesame seeds. Toss together lightly and serve in small bowls.

SANWIN MAKIN

Semolina pudding

MAKES: 25 PIECES

This dish (pronounced ‘sinamakin’) is rich with coconut milk, ghee and sesame seeds. It is cut and served like a cake.

180 g (1 cup) fine semolina

750 ml (3 cups) thick coconut milk

220 g (1 cup) sugar

125 g ghee or butter, cut into cubes

a pinch of salt

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

3 eggs, separated

2–3 tablespoons lightly toasted sesame seeds

Preheat the oven to 160°C (Gas 2–3). Lightly grease a 22 cm square cake tin or ovenproof dish.

Put the semolina in a large heavy-based saucepan. Gradually add the coconut milk, stirring often to keep the mixture free of lumps. Add the sugar, place over medium heat and bring to the boil, stirring constantly. When the mixture boils and thickens add a small amount of ghee at a time and continue cooking until the mixture becomes very thick and leaves the side of the pan. Remove from the heat, then add the salt and cardamom and mix well. Beat in the egg yolks, one at a time.

Whisk the egg whites in a clean bowl until stiff peaks form. Fold into the semolina mixture.

Turn the mixture into the prepared tin and smooth the top. Sprinkle over the sesame seeds and bake in the oven for 45–60 minutes, or until well risen and golden brown. Remove from the heat, allow to cool in the dish, then cut into large diamond-shaped pieces. Serve as a snack or dessert.

SHWE HTMIN

Golden rice

SERVES: 4

200 g (1 cup) long-grain rice

1 tablespoon oil

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons sugar

65 g (1 cup) grated fresh coconut, plus extra to serve

2 tablespoons lightly toasted sesame seeds, plus extra to serve

Preheat the oven to 180°C (Gas 4). Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the rice and stir constantly for 3 minutes to coat in the oil. Add the coconut milk, turmeric, salt and sugar and bring to the boil for about 2 minutes, or until the liquid looks thick. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes, or until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Remove from the heat and while still hot, fluff up with a fork and mix in the coconut.

Transfer the rice to a greased ovenproof dish and smooth the top, pressing down firmly. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and bake in the oven for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, cut into diamond shapes and serve with more grated fresh coconut and toasted sesame seeds, which have been slightly crushed and mixed with a little salt.

KYAUK KYAW (1)

Seaweed jelly

MAKES: ABOUT 18 PIECES

This jelly is made from translucent strands of refined seaweed that look like crinkled strips of cellophane. It is sold in Asian grocery stores as refined agar-agar. Agar-agar powder is also sold in packets at Asian grocery stores. The name of the recipe is pronounced ‘chow-chaw’.

7 g agar-agar strands or 1 tablespoon agar-agar powder

1 litre (4 cups) coconut milk

110 g (½ cup) sugar

a few drops of rose flavouring or 1 tablespoon rosewater

Soak the strands of agar-agar in cold water for at least 1 hour, or preferably overnight. Drain and measure out 1½ cups loosely packed strands. Put the strands and coconut milk into a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly. Add the sugar and simmer for 15–20 minutes, stirring often, until all the strands are completely dissolved. Remove from the heat.

Alternatively if you are using agar-agar powder, sprinkle on top of the milk and bring to the boil, then simmer and stir for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Add the rose flavouring to the jelly, to taste, then pour into a 1.5 litre (6 cup) capacity dish rinsed out with cold water, and allow to set. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Cut into squares or diamonds. This is a very firm jelly and can be picked up and eaten with your fingers.

Note: In some instances, making your own coconut milk gives a much more authentic and lighter result. This dessert is one of them.

KYAUK KYAW (2)

Iced jelly drink

Agar-agar or seaweed jelly also gives its name to a drink served in Burma that is so popular it is sold on every street corner.

palm sugar or slab sugar

rose concentrate

540 g grass jelly (glossary), thinly sliced

iced water

crushed ice

Make a syrup from the sugar and water. Allow to cool, then add the rose concentrate to flavour. Put a tablespoon of the grass jelly into each glass. Add a couple of spoonfuls of the syrup, then fill up with iced water and crushed ice. Stir well and serve. Another version of this uses coconut milk instead of water, and is also delicious and cooling on a hot day.

Note: Chopped agar-agar jelly can be used in place of tinned grass jelly if preferred.

NGAPYAW KYAW

Banana snacks

Long green bananas, short yellow bananas, three-cornered bananas, large red bananas, small sour bananas, sweet and butter-smooth bananas — they all grow in Burma and are available all year round.

Sweet, delicately flavoured varieties are eaten as they are, but others are the starting point for all sorts of sweet snacks. They can be sliced, rolled in flour and fried; boiled in coconut milk; mashed with egg and a little plain flour to make a thick batter and shallow fried. These snacks are often served with a syrup made from palm sugar.

THAILAND

Thai cooking, like that of the whole of Southeast Asia, is very much a taste-and-add affair. While the results are splendid, it is very difficult to obtain exact recipes because most Thai cooks don’t use them. It is best to watch the cook closely, noting every move and taking careful and copious notes.

During my first most enjoyable stay in Thailand I was fortunate to meet and speak with some outstandingly good Thai cooks and learn some of their recipes. One was Mom Luang Terb Xoomsai, a charming and worldly member of the Thai nobility who was famous for her good cooking. Between trips abroad to represent Thailand at food festivals and exhibitions she ran a catering firm and the SEATO canteen.

I lunched at the canteen as her guest, and chose to taste the Thai dishes rather than the European style food that was also provided. After lunch we sat and talked, then she took me into the kitchen to show me how various things were done. All in all, I have seldom spent so edifying an afternoon.

She pointed out that, like every country, Thailand has a classic cuisine and a peasant cuisine. She uses both, depending on the occasion. The meals in the canteen are, she said, of the peasant style (but delicious, just delicious) and when she catered for parties something grander was usually required. An example of this, being prepared then for a special party the next day, was lug chup, which translates as ‘small magic’ — and that’s exactly what it was.

Tiny moulded fruits looking like marzipan fruit, but more delicate, they shone with a glaze that could have been a thin sugar coating at the brilliantly clear hard-crack stage. However, the fruits were not marzipan but mung bean paste, sweetened with sugar and coloured and flavoured with fresh fruits and vegetables. ‘I would not touch them if they had artificial colouring and flavouring,’ vowed Terb Xoomsai. Nor was the glaze sugar (which would melt in Thailand’s humid climate); the fruits had been dipped in an agar-agar solution to give them a clear and completely non-sticky coating. Tiny natural calyxes from fruits were attached and the whole effect was one of delicacy and beauty.

I also met chef Miki Pichit, chef de cuisine at the Oriental Hotel, one of Bangkok’s oldest and most famous hotels. I had been overwhelmed by his presentation of Thai food at the lavish banquet held to mark the Loy Krathong festival, the biggest celebration of the year. It takes place on the full of the twelfth moon and symbolises the passing of the old and the coming of the new lunar year.

Lotus-shaped krathongs or floats made from flowers, leaves, coloured paper and (a modern touch) polystyrene foam to keep them afloat, are sent down the Chao Phraya River, each with lighted candles and incense sticks in them. The lights flickering on the water are a pretty sight, but not many survive more than a short distance downstream where scores of little boys wait in boats to snatch them from the water and profit from the baht coins tucked into them by devotees hoping to propitiate the gods.

Because the hotel is right on the river, there is a spectacular celebration held there each year attended by tourists and local society alike. Tableaux presented on an open-air stage tell stories of the grandeur of ancient Siam. Beautiful girls in breathtaking costumes dance traditional dances. There is music and singing, and an interpreter with a microphone translates for the benefit of farangs, or foreigners.

Every conceivable dish was displayed at the banquet, both Western and Thai style. Smoked salmon and ham vied for attention with kaeng (dishes with gravy) of every kind and such a selection of krueng kieng (side dishes) that discretion and diets were cast to the winds. Among the most delicious and curious dishes I tasted was a finely pounded paste of fresh fish seasoned with the ever-present Thai flavouring combination of coriander roots, peppercorns and garlic ground together. This was steamed in banana leaves that had been cut and curved to look like a flower. I met this combination again at a very exclusive Thai restaurant, when it was steamed in the shape of tiny fish, each one no larger than a thumb, and presented on lettuce leaves as though swimming around the dish.

The sweets of every shape, flavour and hue were as dazzling to the eye as was the display of fireworks on the river. I could not help but wonder how many hours of work had gone into the making of hundreds of tiny baskets made from bai toey (pandanus leaves), each holding a mere mouthful of sweets made variously from glutinous rice, yams, agaragar jelly, mung bean paste, mung bean flour and, of course, the richness of coconut milk and the sweetness of palm sugar. I particularly enjoyed the ice cream made from fresh coconut milk. Delicately sweet, ice-cold, creamy but not too rich, it was the perfect ending to a perfect meal. A chef stood by the old-fashioned ice-cream churn, scooping out servings for guests who still had some space left to taste it.

On a tour of the hotel kitchens I met chef Silaprachai, a specialist in fruit carving. If you have not seen fruit as carved by the Thais, you cannot imagine the impact of huge pyramids of melons, papayas, lamoot (sapodilla), mandarins, pomelos, champoos (rose apple/jambul) and rambutan all sculpted to resemble flowers. The melons in particular, being large enough to decorate in more elaborate fashion, bore classic designs cut into the skin and in some instances were carved to look like birds, each feather separate and perfect.

It amazes the visitor to Thailand to see the care that goes into even the smallest detail. Even the krathongs, to be admired for a few hours and then floated down the river, were formed with such dexterity and attention to detail. Each ‘petal’ of the lotus shapes, approximately a handspan in length, was composed of hundreds of tiny red rose petals, each one rolled separately to form a flaring cone and arranged in perfectly symmetrical rows. These ‘petals’ were then edged with tight white buds of a jasminelike flower.

SERVING AND EATING A THAI MEAL

As in the rest of Southeast Asia, Thailand’s staple food is rice. The words for rice and food are synonymous and everything else is called ‘with the rice’.

Thailand is one of the greatest rice-growing countries in the world and exports of rice account for almost half of the country’s export revenue. There are as many, if not more, ceremonial rituals attached to the planting and harvesting of rice in Thailand as there are in other Asian countries, where rice represents life and is revered as such.

To cook rice in the Thai manner, choose jasmine rice, a naturally fragrant long-grain rice or, if unavailable, another long-grain variety of polished white rice. Thai cooks wash the rice several times, but there is no need to do this if the rice is clean, for washing carries away soluble nutrients. It is then cooked by the absorption method.

Another method is to soak the rice overnight, then to drain and steam it. This takes much longer than cooking it directly in the water, but gives a very fluffy and grainy result. However, it must be served directly when it is ready, because it will go hard and dry if left to stand. This method is almost always used with glutinous rice, a special variety much prized in northern Thailand, Laos and other countries in the area. Except in Laos, it is used exclusively in the making of sweets.

A Thai meal is based on rice, but the number and variety of dishes served with the rice is limited only by the cook’s time, imagination, patience and budget. It is customary to have a soup, two or more kaeng and as many krueng kieng as possible. These can be prepared beforehand and served at room temperature. There is not, in Thailand, the Western compulsion to have everything piping hot. Just cook the rice at the last moment so it will be steaming fresh and all will be well.

Modern Thais eat mostly with spoon and fork, though for those who can manage the old-fashioned way, with the fingers, the food does seem to taste even better. Everything is served at once and diners take this or that according to individual taste, combining or tasting separately each dish against the bland background of rice. Rice in Thailand is never cooked with salt. Seasonings and sauces added later make it inadvisable to cook rice with salt, because the sauces are so strong and salty.

UTENSILS

You don’t need anything very special in the way of equipment to cook Thai food. But, like the cooking of many Asian countries, Thai food uses ground spices and fresh herbs for flavouring and a food processor helps. So does a mortar and pestle for pounding small quantities.

A wok is, once again, the classic shape for the stirfrying technique that is employed in many dishes, so if you enjoy cooking Chinese, Thai, Indonesian or other Asian food, it will be a wise investment.

FRESH INGREDIENTS

In addition to the shelf ingredients listed opposite, try to grow lemongrass in your garden. The dried, powdered version pales in comparison. Coriander is essential to Thai food if you are in an area where you cannot buy it, grow some from seed. Fresh makrut (kaffir lime) leaves add a unique and distinctive flavour to many Thai dishes. Cut into hair-fine strands and sprinkled on top of salads or finished dishes, pounded with other ingredients to make fragrant spice pastes or simmered whole in curries, their contribution cannot be underestimated. Tender leaves from other citrus may be substituted, but the effect is not the same. In addition to these key fresh ingredients, there are three varieties of Thai basil, kaprow, horapa and manglak, which are widely used and pack a real flavour punch. Get to know them and, if you are an aficionado of Thai cuisine, consider growing them. Likewise, fresh Thai chillies (the smaller and thinner the chilli, the hotter it will be).

YOUR THAI SHELF

black peppercorns, whole

cardamom, whole pods or ground

cellophane (bean starch) noodles

chillies, dried red or powder

cinnamon, sticks or ground

cloves, whole or ground

coconut, desiccated

coconut milk and cream

coriander, ground

cumin, ground

dried bean curd sheets

dried prawn powder

dried shrimp

dried shrimp paste (kapi)

fish sauce

galangal, fresh or brined

ginger, red pickled

glutinous rice

green curry paste

green peppercorns, in brine

jasmine or other long-grain rice

kencur (aromatic ginger) powder

laos (dried galangal) powder

lily buds, dried

masaman curry paste

mung bean flour

palm sugar or soft or dark brown sugar

paprika

peanut oil or other vegetable oil

peanuts, raw

red curry paste

rice vermicelli

shiitake mushrooms, dried

soy sauce, light and dark

tamarind pulp

tapioca flour

Thai chilli sauce (sriracha) turmeric, ground

wood fungus, dried

yellow bean sauce (taucheo)

KRUNG KAEING KHIEU WAN

Green curry paste

MAKES: 1 CUP

Coriander is a herb that is prone to collect sand. Wash it very thoroughly, especially the roots and stems where they join the plant, as this is where most soil collects.

4 large fresh green chillies

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

8 red Asian shallots or 1 small brown onion, chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves, stem and root

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, finely chopped, or 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 slice fresh galangal or 1 teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon oil

Remove the stems from the chillies and keep the seeds in if you want the curry paste to be hot. Roughly chop the chillies and put into a food processor with the remaining ingredients. Process to a smooth paste, turning off the motor and scraping down the sides until well combined. You may need to add a little extra oil or a tablespoon of water to blend everything together. Store in a sterilised airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.

KRUNG KAENG PHED

Red curry paste

MAKES: 1 CUP

This versatile curry paste is suitable for seafood, meat and poultry curries and is also a delicious flavour base for Chilli Fried Rice.

4–6 dried red chillies

16 red Asian shallots or 2 small brown onions, chopped

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves, stem and root

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons fresh lemongrass, white part only, finely chopped

1 slice fresh galangal or 1 teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste

1 tablespoon oil

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons paprika

Remove the stems from the chillies and keep the seeds in if you want the curry paste to be hot. Roughly chop the chillies and put into a food processor with the remaining ingredients. Process to a smooth paste, turning off the motor and scraping down the sides until well combined. You may need to add a little extra oil or a tablespoon of water to blend everything together. Store in a sterilised airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.

KRUNG KAENG MASAMAN

Muslim curry paste

MAKES: 1½ CUPS

You can make this curry paste two ways — either using the whole spices, roasting and grinding them (you will need a large mortar and pestle for this) or by using ground spices. I have tested this recipe both ways and they are equally successful; already ground spices are a boon when you are pushed for time.

7–10 dried red chillies or 2 teaspoons chilli powder

2 tablespoons coriander seeds or ground coriander

1 teaspoon cumin or fennel seeds or ground fennel

2 slices fresh galangal, chopped, or 2 teaspoons laos (dried galangal) powder

5 whole cloves or ¼ teaspoon ground cloves

1 cinnamon stick or 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

5 cardamom pods or ½ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 blade mace or ½ teaspoon ground mace

2 tablespoons oil

2 onions, thinly sliced

5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon finely chopped lemongrass or finely grated lemon zest

Break the chillies, shaking out and discarding the seeds, then roast lightly in a dry frying pan. Pound using a mortar and pestle. Roast the coriander seeds until aromatic and dark brown, shaking the pan frequently or stirring. Pound in a mortar until reduced to a fine powder (if spices are pounded while hot they are easily pulverised). Roast the cumin seeds until they crackle and start to pop, then grind to a powder. Add the laos powder to the ground spices.

Parch the whole cloves, cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and mace in a dry frying pan over low heat for a few minutes, shaking the pan. If you separate the cinnamon stick into layers, it will roast more quickly. Grind all the spices using a mortar and pestle to a fine powder and combine with the previously roasted and ground ingredients. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft and golden brown, stirring occasionally. Add the dried shrimp paste and stir-fry for a minute longer, crushing it in the oil with the back of a spoon. Put this fried mixture, when it has cooled slightly, into a food processor with the lemongrass and process to a paste. If using fresh galangal, add at this stage. If necessary, add a little coconut milk or water to assist processing. Turn into a bowl and combine with the dry ground spices. The curry paste is now ready to use.

If using ready-ground spices, dry-roast the ground coriander and fennel over low heat, stirring constantly and taking care they do not burn. Roast until they turn a rich brown and have an aromatic smell. It is not necessary to roast the chilli powder or the other ground spices.

If a food processor is not available, crush the onions and garlic as much as possible after they are cooked, using a mortar and pestle, then combine with the spices.

KHAO SUEY

Steamed white rice

SERVES: 6–8

500 g (2½ cups) long-grain rice

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Put the rice and 750 ml (3 cups) water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, uncovered, until the water is absorbed and holes appear on the surface. Remove from the heat, scoop the rice into a steamer or colander and steam over fast boiling water for 25–30 minutes, or until the grains are tender, yet firm and separate.

If you are looking for a less fiddly method, when the holes appear on the surface, cover the pan with a folded clean tea towel and place a well-fitting lid over the top to seal the pan. Reduce the heat to low and cook the rice for a further 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to stand, covered, for a further 10 minutes.

KHAO KLUK KAPI

Rice with kapi

SERVES: 6

1 tablespoon dried shrimp

2 eggs, lightly beaten

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste

4–5 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 fresh birdseye or Thai bush chillies (very hot, tiny chillies), seeded and finely chopped

125 g (½ cup) finely diced cooked pork

1 quantity cold steamed white rice (opposite)

2–3 tablespoons fish sauce

1 small handful fresh coriander leaves, chopped

Soak the dried shrimp in hot water for 10 minutes. Drain well and finely chop.

Season the egg with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan. Pour in half of the egg to make an omelette, then remove to a plate to cool; do not fold the omelette. Repeat with the remaining egg. When cool, put one omelette on top of the other, roll up and cut into thin strips.

Wrap the dried shrimp paste in a piece of foil and roast under a preheated griller (broiler) for 5 minutes, turning halfway through cooking time.

Heat the remaining oil in a clean wok over low heat. Add the garlic and chilli and cook until the garlic is golden. Add the shrimps and dried shrimp paste and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes. Add the pork and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the rice and toss together until heated through. Season with the fish sauce, to taste.

To serve, pile the rice onto a platter and garnish with the omelette strips and coriander leaves. More hot chillies may be used as a garnish.

KHAO PHAT PRIK

Chilli fried rice

SERVES: 4

The fish sauce and light soy sauce are interchangeable as far as adding salt to this dish, but the fish sauce imparts an additional interesting flavour.

1 quantity cold steamed white rice

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 fresh chillies, 1 red and 1 green, seeded and sliced, plus extra to garnish

1 tablespoon red curry paste

1 pork chop, finely diced

500 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped into pieces if large

2 eggs, lightly beaten

60 ml (¼ cup) fish sauce or light soy sauce

6 spring onions, chopped

1 handful fresh coriander leaves, chopped

lime wedges, to garnish

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan. Add the onion and chilli and cook until soft. Add the curry paste and stir-fry until the oil separates. Add the pork and stir-fry until cooked, then add the prawns and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes, or until they turn pink.

Add the rice to the wok and toss thoroughly until coated with the curry mixture and heated through. Season the egg with salt and pepper then, push the rice to one side of the wok and pour in the egg. Stir until the egg starts to set, then mix through the rice, tossing over high heat until the egg is cooked. Sprinkle the fish sauce evenly over the rice and mix well, then remove from the heat.

Just before serving, stir through the spring onion, then garnish with the coriander leaves, extra chilli and lime wedges.

KHAO PHAT

Thai fried rice

SERVES: 4

This dish is a meal in itself. You will get the best results if the cooked rice is still slightly firm with very separate grains.

1 quantity cold steamed white rice

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

2 onions, finely chopped

1 large pork chop, finely diced

250 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

175 g (1 cup) crab meat

3 eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon Thai chilli sauce (sriracha) (optional)

2 tablespoons tomato paste

65 g (1 cup) sliced spring onions

1 small handful fresh coriander leaves, chopped

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until soft. Increase the heat to high, add the pork and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add the prawns and crab meat and stir-fry for a further 3 minutes, or until the prawns turn pink. Season the egg with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then, push the meat and seafood to one side of the wok and pour in the egg. Stir until the egg starts to set, then mix through the rice and toss until well combined and heated through. Sprinkle the fish sauce evenly over the rice and mix well, then add the chilli sauce and tomato paste and toss thoroughly so the rice has a reddish colour. Remove from the heat.

Just before serving, stir through the spring onion, then garnish with the coriander leaves.

MEE KROB

Crispy noodles

SERVES: 6

The essential feature of this dish is that the vermicelli noodles should be crisp and crunchy. The salty, hot, sweet and sour flavours need no accompaniment.

200 g rice vermicelli

750 ml (3 cups) peanut oil

125 g minced (ground) pork or chicken

125 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped

185 g (1 cup) finely diced pressed firm tofu

80 ml (⅓ cup) white vinegar

75 g (⅓ cup) sugar

80 ml (⅓ cup) fish sauce

3 eggs, lightly beaten

2 whole heads pickled garlic, thinly sliced

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and sliced

1 handful fresh coriander leaves, chopped

30 g (¼ cup) finely chopped garlic chives

Dip the rice noodles briefly in cold water, then shake off any excess water and leave in a breezy place for about 30 minutes. (When fried, rinsed noodles will not puff up as spectacularly as when fried straight from the packet, but will stay crisper for longer.)

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the vermicelli, in batches — it should puff and swell immediately. Remove from the oil using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Allow to cool completely.

Pour off all but 60 ml (¼ cup) of the oil and cook the pork over high heat, stirring until it is no longer pink. Add the prawns and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the tofu and toss until heated through.

In a bowl, stir together the vinegar, sugar and fish sauce until the sugar has dissolved, then pour into the wok and bring to the boil. Season the egg with salt and freshly ground black pepper and add to the wok, stirring until it is set and firm. Add the fried noodles, pickled garlic and most of the chilli and chopped herbs. Mix well. Garnish with the remaining chilli and herbs and serve immediately.

PHAT WUN SEN

Mixed fried vermicelli

SERVES: 4

250 g rice vermicelli

10 dried shiitake mushrooms

2 tablespoons peanut oil

3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 fresh red chillies (optional), seeded and finely chopped

185 g pork fillet, thinly sliced

250 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped

2 leeks, white part only, thinly sliced, or 6 spring onions

1 tinned bamboo shoot, cut into thin matchsticks

2 carrots, cut into thin matchsticks

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon white vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

fried onion flakes (optional)

Soak the vermicelli in boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain well. Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well, cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and chilli and cook until soft. Move to one side of the wok, increase the heat to medium, add the pork and stir fry for 3–4 minutes, or until cooked. Add the prawn, leek, bamboo shoot and carrot and stir-fry for a further 3 minutes.

Combine all of the seasonings, add to the wok, and simmer for 1 minute, then add the vermicelli and toss until well mixed and heated through. Garnish with the coriander leaves and, if liked, fried onion flakes.

MA UON

Fat horses

MAKES: 12–16

Somewhat reminiscent of a dim sum filling, but seasoned differently, this combination of pork, chicken, and crab meat is steamed in tiny cups instead of pastry. Chinese wine cups are a suitable size.

125 g cooked crab meat

125 g pork loin, both lean and fat, trimmed and finely chopped

125 g chicken breast fillet, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves, stems and roots

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

5 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tablespoon finely chopped spring onion

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons coconut cream

1 teaspoon grated palm sugar

1 large egg or 2 small eggs

Flake the crab meat, discarding any bony tissue, then chop it finely. Place in a bowl with the pork, chicken, coriander, pepper, garlic, spring onion, fish sauce, coconut cream and palm sugar.

Separate the egg white from the yolk, leaving the yolk in the egg shell. With a small spoon or the end of a chopstick, break up the yolk, then add half of it to the white and beat until foamy. Add to the pork mixture and mix well until all the ingredients are thoroughly combined.

Divide the mixture between twelve or sixteen 60 ml (¼ cup) moulds or bowls, pressing firmly, then brush over the top of each with the remaining egg yolk. Steam in a basket over simmering water for 20 minutes, or until no longer pink. Allow to cool, then remove from the cups and serve at room temperature.

MA HO

Galloping horses

SERVES: 8

This savoury pork mixture is used as a filling or topping for fresh fruit. The contrasting flavours are deliciously tantalising. Minced chicken may be substituted if pork is not on the menu.

5 garlic cloves

4 fresh coriander roots

2 tablespoons lard or oil

250 g pork loin, both lean and fat, trimmed and finely chopped, or use minced (ground) pork

50 g (⅓ cup) roasted peanuts, coarsely ground

1½ tablespoons fish sauce

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

80 g (⅔ cup) grated palm sugar

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

mandarins, pineapple slices or rambutans, to serve

Crush the garlic and coriander roots using a mortar and pestle. Heat the lard in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic mixture and cook until it turns golden. Add the pork, peanuts, fish sauce, pepper, palm sugar, chilli and coriander leaves and continue to stir-fry until the mixture is well cooked, dark brown in colour and quite dry.

To prepare the fruit, peel the mandarins, removing the white pith, then separate into segments and cut each segment open down the back. Lay them flat on a serving dish. Peel the pineapple, removing the eyes and core and cut into bite-sized pieces. Peel the rambutans and remove the seeds.

Pile the pork mixture on top of the mandarin segments or pineapple pieces, or into the hollow of the rambutans. Serve with rice, or on their own as a starter.

Note: The closest substitute to rambutans are lychees. Out of season these can be bought in tins — they will need to be drained and the stones removed.

PRATAD LOM

Pork and crab balls

MAKES: 12

6 large dried tofu skins

175 g (1 cup) crab meat

250 g pork fillet, finely chopped

60 g pork fat, finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons lightly beaten egg

1 tablespoon cornflour oil, for frying

Sauce

2 tablespoons fish sauce

80 ml (⅓ cup) white vinegar

2 garlic cloves, crushed

¼ teaspoon salt

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and finely chopped

¼ teaspoon sambal ulek

Soak the tofu skins in warm water to soften. Drain well, then cut into twelve 10 cm squares.

To make the filling, flake the crab meat, discarding any bony tissue, then chop finely. Place in a bowl with the remaining ingredients, except the oil, and mix thoroughly. Put a scant tablespoon of the filling on each tofu square, gather up the edges and tie in the middle to form a pratad lom (cracker ball) — a plastic-covered wire twist tie is ideal for holding the tofu skins together during steaming.

To make the sauce, combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl and stir well to combine. Set aside.

Steam the balls in a basket over simmering water for 10–12 minutes. Allow to cool slightly and remove the twist ties.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the balls, in batches, until crisp and golden. Drain on paper towel. Serve with the sauce.

Note: Won ton wrappers may be used instead of tofu skin, but the texture will be quite different.

TAUHU SOD SAI

Stuffed soy bean cake

MAKES: 12

oil, for frying

125 g minced (ground) pork

3 garlic cloves, crushed

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 teaspoons fish sauce

12 large deep-fried tofu puffs

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan. Add the pork, garlic, salt and pepper and stir-fry until well cooked. Add the coriander leaves and fish sauce and stir well to combine. Remove from the heat.

Make a small hole in each of the tofu puffs (the end of a chopstick is useful for this) and stuff some of the pork mixture into the opening.

Heat the oil in a wok over high heat. Deep-fry the stuffed tofu, in batches, until cooked. Drain on paper towel.

HAE KUN

Prawn rolls

SERVES: 4

2 large dried tofu skins

250 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

1 tablespoon cornflour

2 tablespoons pork fat, finely diced

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

oil, for deep-frying

Soak the tofu skins in warm water to soften. Drain well.

In a bowl, combine the prawns, cornflour, pork fat, garlic, ginger, salt and pepper. Divide in two equal portions and shape each into a roll. Place each one on a tofu skin and roll up. Steam in a basket over simmering water for 10 minutes. Allow to cool, then cut into slices on the diagonal.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the prawn rolls, in batches, until golden brown. Serve with sweet sour sauce.

KHANOM KROK

Crispy rice pancakes

MAKES: 24

The pan traditionally used to cook these could best compared to an aebelskiver pan or gem scone iron. Cook these delicious little cakes on a gas stove or in a hot oven. In case you think the juxtaposition of sweet and savoury in the topping odd, rest assured that is a part of their charm.

200 g (1 cup) jasmine rice

4 tablespoons cooked rice

65 g (1 cup) grated fresh coconut

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar

750 ml (3 cups) boiling water

oil, for cooking

65 g (⅓ cup) corn kernels, to serve

3 spring onions, thinly sliced, to serve

2 tablespoons pounded dried shrimp (optional), to serve

Topping

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

2 tablespoons caster sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon tapioca flour

To make the topping, mix together the coconut milk and sugar in a large bowl. Whisk in the salt and tapioca flour until combined.

Combine both types of rice, coconut, salt and sugar in a large bowl, pour in the boiling water and let stand until cold. Place in a food processor and process until ground.

Heat a gem scone iron or aebelskiver pan and brush with a little oil. Half-fill each hollow with the rice batter and cook over low heat for 10 minutes, or until firm. Halfway through cooking, top the pancakes with a scant tablespoon of the coconut milk mixture and sprinkle the top with a little of the corn, spring onion and pounded dried shrimp, if using. Cook until topping is just set but still wobbly and serve while warm and crisp.

Note: These can also be cooked in a preheated 220°C (Gas 7) oven for 10 minutes.

TOM KHA KAI

Chicken and coconut milk soup

SERVES: 5

1.25 kg whole chicken

625 ml (2½ cups) thin coconut milk

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh galangal or laos (dried galangal) powder

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2–3 fresh coriander roots, crushed

2 stems lemongrass, white part only, sliced

3 fresh green chillies

1½ teaspoons salt

3 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

1 tablespoon fish sauce

lime juice, to taste

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

Joint the chicken into portions.

Put the chicken into a large saucepan with the thin coconut milk, galangal, pepper, coriander root, lemongrass, whole chillies, salt and makrut leaves. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the chicken is tender, stirring occasionally. Add the thick coconut milk and return to the boil, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and stir in the fish sauce and lime juice.

Serve the soup in a deep dish or bowl and garnish with the coriander leaves. Accompany with white rice.

KAENG CHUD DOK MAI CHIN

Prawn soup with lily buds

SERVES: 6–8

90 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

30 dried lily buds

8 dried shiitake mushrooms

4–5 garlic cloves, chopped

3 whole fresh coriander plants, including leaves and roots

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

500 g small raw prawns, peeled and deveined, heads and shells reserved

1 onion, thinly sliced

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

80 ml (⅓ cup) fish sauce

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

2 eggs

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain. Cut into 5 cm lengths. In a bowl, soak the lily buds and the mushrooms in hot water for 30 minutes. Pinch off the hard ends of the lily buds and tie a knot in each one (this is what the Thais and Chinese do). If you are short on time, cut the buds in half. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps.

Put the garlic and coriander into a food processor with 2 tablespoons water and process to a purée. Set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the prawn shells and heads and cook for a few minutes until the shells turn bright pink. Add 2 litres (8 cups) water, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes, then strain the stock, discarding the shells.

Heat the remaining oil in a large clean saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until soft. Add the garlic and coriander purée and stir constantly until the oil separates. Add the prawns and cook for 3 minutes, or until they turn pink. Add the hot stock, lily buds, mushrooms and noodles and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes, then add the spring onion, fish sauce, soy sauce and sugar. Lightly beat the eggs and pour into the boiling soup, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat. Serve garnished with the coriander leaves.

KUNG TOM YAM

Prawn soup

SERVES: 6

1 tablespoon oil

1 kg raw prawns, peeled and deveined, heads and shells reserved

1½ teaspoons salt

2 stems lemongrass, white part only, or 4 strips lemon zest

4 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves

2–3 fresh whole red chillies, plus 1 extra, seeded and sliced

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 tablespoons lime juice, or to taste

2 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves

4 spring onions, finely chopped

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the prawn shells and heads and cook for a few minutes until the shells turn bright pink. Add 2 litres (8 cups) hot water, the salt, lemongrass, makrut leaves and whole chillies. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the stock, discarding the solids and return the stock to a clean pan.

Bring the stock back to the boil, add the prawns and simmer for 3–4 minutes, or until the prawns are cooked through. Add the fish sauce and lime juice, to taste. This soup should have a pronounced acid flavour, so add sufficient lime juice to achieve this.

To serve, sprinkle with the extra sliced chilli, coriander leaves and spring onion.

KAENG CHUD MU KAI

Pork and chicken soup

SERVES: 6

½ small chicken or 2 chicken legs

125 ml (½ cup) fish sauce

70 g (½ cup) grated palm sugar

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 whole coriander plant, including leaves and roots

½ teaspoon salt

90 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

5 dried shiitake mushrooms

500 g sweet pork (mu wan) in stock

3 tablespoons chopped spring onion

3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced (optional)

Put the chicken into a saucepan with the fish sauce, palm sugar, peppercorns, coriander plant, salt and 1.5 litres (6 cups) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender. Strain the stock, reserving 1 litre (4 cups). Discard the skin and bones and finely shred the meat.

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain. Cut into 5 cm lengths. Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well, cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Cut half the pork into dice, reserving the remaining pork for use in another dish, or simply serve as sweet pork. Measure 500 ml (2 cups) of the pork stock.

Put the chicken stock and pork stock in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the noodles and mushrooms and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the chicken and pork, spring onion and coriander leaves and turn off the heat immediately. Serve garnished with the chilli, if desired.

PLA NERNG

Steamed fish

SERVES: 6

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

2 dried red chillies

1 teaspoon salt

1 small onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

½ teaspoon chopped lemon zest

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fish sauce

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 large cabbage leaf

1 teaspoon rice flour (optional)

3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into six serving portions (see preparing whole fish).

Put the chillies, salt, onion, garlic, lemon zest, turmeric, pepper and fish sauce into a food processor and process to a smooth paste. Add 1 tablespoon of the coconut milk if needed.

Put the blended mixture into a large bowl with half of the coconut milk and the egg and mix well to combine. Add the fish, stir gently to coat and leave for a few minutes until the fish absorbs the liquid.

Line a baking dish with the cabbage leaf. Turn the fish and marinade into the leaf. In a separate bowl, mix together the rice flour, if using, with remaining coconut milk and spoon over the top of the fish. Sprinkle with the spring onion and coriander leaves. Cover the dish and steam over boiling water for about 10 minutes, or until the fish is done. Allow to cool slightly and firm before serving with rice.

Note: If you do not have a steamer, you can steam the fish in a hot

KHIEU WAN PLA

Green curry of fish

SERVES: 4

The double-lobed makrut (kaffir lime) leaf has a very fragrant, distinctive taste. Try to purchase fresh leaves, which may then be stored in the freezer. If you can’t get them, substitute tender leaves from other citrus fruit, but the flavour won’t be the same. If you live in a temperate climate, ask at the local nursery. You may be surprised to find they have the trees, labelled kaffir lime or Thai lime. They are pretty hardy and reward you with a year-round source of fresh lime leaves.

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets or steaks

625 ml (2½ cups) coconut milk

2 tablespoons green curry paste

2 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1–2 small fresh green chillies, seeded and chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into four serving portions (see preparing whole fish).

Put the coconut milk in a large heavy-based saucepan with the curry paste, stirring constantly. Add the fish, makrut leaves, salt and fish sauce, reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through. Add the chilli and fresh basil and simmer for a further 3–4 minutes. Remove from the heat and serve with white rice. If you like a really hot curry, leave the seeds in the chillies.

PLA TOD

Fried fish with tamarind

SERVES: 4–6

This dish is traditionally cooked in lard, but a light flavoured oil will work just as well.

1½ tablespoons tamarind pulp

1 kg whole fish

lard or oil, for frying

3 garlic cloves, crushed

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon grated palm sugar

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 spring onions, cut into short lengths

3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and sliced

Soak the tamarind pulp in 80 ml (⅓ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Clean and scale the fish, leaving the head on. To clean the cavity, wipe inside the fish cavity with damp paper towel that has first been dipped in coarse salt. Trim any long spines or fins neatly.

Heat the lard in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Cook the fish on both sides, but do not overcook. Drain on paper towel, cover the fish with foil and keep warm.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the lard and cook the garlic over low heat until starting to brown. Add the soy sauce, palm sugar, fish sauce and tamarind liquid and bring to the boil. Add the ginger and spring onion and cook for a further 1 minute.

To serve, spoon the warm sauce over the fish and serve garnished with the coriander leaves and chilli, and white rice on the side.

PLA NAM

Fish in red sauce

SERVES: 4–6

750 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

2 onions, finely chopped

4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons vinegar

2–3 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

3–4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and golden. Add the tomato, vinegar, chilli and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened.

Add the fish to the wok, cover, and continue simmering until the fish is cooked through. Serve hot, sprinkled with the coriander leaves.

PLA PRIO WAN

Whole fried fish with ginger sauce

SERVES: 2–3 AS A MAIN

This is a simple and delicious way of serving fish. Prepare the ingredients for the sauce before you start to cook the fish. The sauce can simmer while the fish is being fried and the dish served immediately when the fish is cooked, while at its best.

1 kg whole fish, such as snapper, bream or jewfish

flour, seasoned with salt

oil, for frying

coriander sprigs, to garnish (optional)

Ginger sauce

8 dried shiitake mushrooms

125 ml (½ cup) vinegar

110 g (½ cup) sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion

1 tablespoon cornflour

4 tablespoons chopped pickled red ginger (glossary)

Clean and scale the fish, leaving the head on. To clean the cavity, wipe inside the fish cavity with damp paper towel that has first been dipped in coarse salt. Trim any long spines or fins neatly. Cut diagonal slashes in the flesh with a sharp knife, about 2.5 cm (1 inch) apart. Dust with the seasoned flour, shaking off any excess.

To make the ginger sauce, soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well, cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Put the mushroom, vinegar, sugar, soy sauce and 185 ml (¾ cup) water into a small saucepan and bring to the boil for 5 minutes. Add the spring onion.

In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water, then stir into the sauce. Continue to simmer until the sauce is clear and thickened. Remove from the heat, stir in the ginger and keep warm.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the fish until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towel, then carefully transfer the fish to a serving dish, spoon the sauce over the top and serve immediately, garnished with a sprig of fresh coriander, if desired.

PLA CIAN

Thai-style fried fish

SERVES: 4

750 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

1 teaspoon tamarind pulp

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

6 spring onions, cut into short lengths

4 garlic cloves, crushed

3 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1 tablespoon grated palm sugar

1 tablespoon fish sauce

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving portions (see preparing whole fish).

Soak the tamarind pulp in 1 tablespoon hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the fish and cook on both sides until lightly browned and cooked through. Remove the fish to a serving platter and keep warm.

Add the spring onion to the wok and cook over low heat until soft. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry until soft and golden. Add the soy sauce, palm sugar, tamarind liquid, fish sauce and pepper and simmer for 1 minute. Pour the sauce over the fish, garnish with the coriander leaves and chilli and serve immediately with white rice.

KAENG PHET KUNG

Prawn red curry

SERVES: 4

This curry is even better prepared in advance and re-heated when required. The prawn heads have a wonderful flavour and may be served as part of the curry. Some consider them the tastiest part of the prawn.

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined, heads reserved

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

2 tablespoons red curry paste

1–2 tablespoons fish sauce or 1 teaspoon salt

1 fresh red chilli, seeded

To prepare the prawn heads, rinse and discard only the hard top shell. Set aside.

Put the coconut milk into a large saucepan with the curry paste, fish sauce and chilli. Bring slowly to simmering point, stirring constantly. Add the prawns and prawn heads and cook over low heat for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently, until the prawns are cooked and the flavours mellow. Serve hot with white rice and other accompaniments.

KAI PHAT KHING

Chicken with ginger shreds

SERVES: 2 AS A MAIN DISH

½ cup dried wood fungus

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon oil

1 small onion, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 large chicken breast, diced

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon vinegar

1–2 teaspoons sugar

1 spring onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

Soak the wood fungus in hot water for 10 minutes, then rinse and drain well. Remove any thick or gritty portions and cut into bite-sized pieces. Soak the ginger in lightly salted water for 10 minutes, then squeeze out any excess moisture — this makes the ginger less pungent.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat and cook the onion until soft. Add the garlic and stir until it starts to turn golden, then add the chicken and ginger and stir-fry until the chicken changes colour. Add the soy and fish sauces, vinegar and sugar and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 3 minutes — do not overcook. Just before serving, stir in the spring onion and coriander.

KAI KWAM

Fried eggs stuffed with pork and seafood

SERVES: 8

4 large eggs

70 g (½ cup) chopped raw prawns

70 g (½ cup) cooked crab meat

125 g (½ cup) chopped cooked pork

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1–2 tablespoons thick coconut milk

oil, for deep-frying

Batter

75 g (½ cup) plain flour

2 teaspoons oil

¼ teaspoon salt

Put the eggs in a saucepan of cold water and bring slowly to the boil, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, and being careful not to crack the shells, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Keep stirring until the eggs have been simmering for 3 minutes. This helps centre the yolks, leaving an even layer of white all around, which in turn makes the eggs easier to fill. Simmer for 12 minutes, or until hard-boiled, then run cold water into the pan to cool the eggs quickly.

Peel the eggs and cut in halves lengthways. Scoop the yolks into a bowl and mash thoroughly with a fork. Add the prawn, crab meat, pork, coriander leaves, pepper, salt and fish sauce. Mix well, then add as much of the coconut milk as the mixture will take and still hold its shape. Divide the yolk mixture into eight equal portions and fill the egg whites, shaping the filling into a dome so it takes the shape of a whole egg.

To make the batter, mix together the flour, oil, salt and 125 ml (½ cup) lukewarm water until smooth.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Dip each egg into the batter, filling side down. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the eggs for 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Drain on paper towel and serve warm or cold.

KAI TOD TAUCHEO

Deep-fried chicken with yellow bean sauce

SERVES: 2

1 large chicken breast, cut into cubes

1 tablespoon egg white, lightly beaten

2 teaspoons water chestnut flour or cornflour

oil, for deep-frying, plus 1 tablespoon extra

1 tablespoon yellow bean sauce (taucheo)

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or sherry

½ teaspoon sesame oil

In a bowl mix together the chicken, egg white and water chestnut flour until well coated.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the chicken, in batches, for a few seconds, or until it starts to change colour. Drain on paper towel.

Heat the extra oil in a clean wok, add the bean sauce and fry for a few seconds. Add the sugar, wine and sesame oil and mix well, then add the chicken, toss to combine and heat through. Serve immediately with white rice.

KAI YANG

Garlic chicken

SERVES: 4–5

This may sound like a lot of garlic and pepper, but the result is so unusual and delicious that I hesitate to modify the recipe. The coarsely crushed peppercorns are not as hot as the same amount of finely ground pepper.

1.5 kg whole chicken or 1 kg chicken breasts

6 garlic cloves, crushed with 2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns, crushed

4 whole plants fresh coriander, including leaves and roots, finely chopped

2 tablespoons lemon or lime juice, plus extra to taste

1 tomato, sliced, to serve

chilli powder (optional), to taste

Joint the chicken into portions, then cut each chicken breast in half. In a bowl, mix together the garlic, the crushed peppercorns, coriander and lemon juice until well combined. Rub this mixture over the chicken to coat well on all sides. Cover and set aside for at least 1 hour or longer in the refrigerator.

Cook the chicken on a grill tray under a preheated hot griller (broiler), about 15 cm from the heat, turning every 5 minutes, until the chicken is tender and the skin is crisp. Alternatively, cook the chicken on a hot barbecue over glowing coals.

Serve the chicken with boiled rice and the tomato slices seasoned with a pinch of chilli powder, if using, salt and lemon juice, to taste.

KAENG KHIEU WAN KAI

Green curry of chicken

SERVES: 6

The green colour is imparted by the finely chopped chillies and fresh herbs added during the last few minutes of cooking. These two ingredients not only give colour, but also a distinctive flavour that distinguishes Thai dishes from other spiced preparations with a coconut milk gravy, all called ‘kaeng’ for want of a more definitive word.

1.5 kg whole chicken

250 ml (1 cup) coconut cream

3 tablespoons green curry paste

750 ml (3 cups) coconut milk

2 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh green chillies

4 tablespoons torn fresh basil or chopped coriander leaves.

Joint the chicken into portions.

Heat the coconut cream in a large heavy-based saucepan, stirring constantly until it comes to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the cream thickens and oil bubbles around it — you should be left with 60 ml (¼ cup). Add the curry paste and cook in the rich oily cream for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly. The curry paste will smell cooked and the oil will separate when it is ready.

Add the chicken and cook over medium–low heat for 15 minutes, stirring frequently and turning regularly until the chicken changes colour. Add the coconut milk, makrut leaves, salt and fish sauce and stir while the coconut milk comes to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 35–45 minutes, or until the chicken is well cooked and tender and the gravy rich and oily. Stir in the chilli and herbs, simmer for a further 5 minutes, then serve with white rice.

Variation: To make agreen curry of duck (kaeng khieu wan pet), use a whole duck instead of the chicken and proceed as for green curry of chicken.

KAENG PHEDPED YANG SUBPAROT

Thai red curry of duck with pineapple and lychees

SERVES: 6

The richness of duck is balanced by the tang of fresh pineapple and the sweetness of lychees. It doesn’t matter if the pineapple is not very sweet, the lychees will compensate. If you are pressed for time, buy the duck already roasted from a Chinese barbecue shop.

1 whole duck, uncooked or roasted

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

3 tablespoons red curry paste

375 ml (1½ cups) thin coconut milk

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves, plus extra, thinly sliced, to serve

1 teaspoon grated palm sugar

250 g fresh pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into cubes

150 g fresh or tinned lychees, stones removed (optional)

fresh Thai basil, to serve

Joint the duck into portions.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan. Add the duck, in batches, and cook the duck until brown on all sides. Remove to a plate using a slotted spoon when cooked.

Add the curry paste to the wok and stir-fry until it starts to bubble. Stir in the thin coconut milk, fish sauce and makrut leaves. Mix well and when the sauce bubbles again, return the duck to the wok. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 40 minutes, or until the duck is tender, stirring and turning from time to time to make sure it cooks evenly.

If using an already cooked duck add the duck pieces and turn and cook until just heated through. Add the palm sugar, pineapple and lychees and stir to coat. Garnish with the basil and the extra makrut leaf. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.

KAENG MASAMAN

Muslim curry

SERVES 6–8

Chicken or beef may be used in this very spicy curry.

1 kg beef or 1.75 kg whole chicken

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp

1 litre (4 cups) coconut milk

140 g (1 cup) roasted, unsalted peanuts

2 tablespoons fish sauce, plus extra

15 cardamom pods

5 cm cinnamon stick

1 quantity masaman curry paste

2 tablespoons lime or lemon juice

1–2 tablespoons grated palm sugar

Cut the beef into large cubes or joint the chicken into portions (see preparing whole fish).

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Put the beef into a large heavy-based saucepan with the coconut milk, peanuts, fish sauce, cardamom pods and cinnamon stick. Bring to the boil, stirring frequently, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 35–40 minutes, or until the meat is tender. (If you are using chicken use 1.5 litres (6 cups) coconut milk and simmer for 2 hours.) Do not cover the pan or the coconut milk will curdle. When the meat has cooked, remove it to a plate using a slotted spoon.

Continue to simmer the coconut milk in the pan, until it has reduced by about one-third (if it has already reduced considerably then do not cook for any longer). Stir in the curry paste, tamarind liquid, lime juice and palm sugar. Return the beef to the pan and continue simmering until the sauce has thickened slightly. Taste and add more fish sauce if necessary. Serve with white rice.

KAENG PHED NUER

Red curry of beef

SERVES: 6

250 ml (1 cup) coconut cream

3 tablespoons red curry paste

1 kg stewing steak, cut into cubes

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

2 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 fresh red chillies, seeded and sliced

Heat the coconut cream in a large heavy-based saucepan, stirring constantly until it comes to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the cream thickens and oil bubbles around it. Add the curry paste and continue simmering for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, until the oil starts to separate. Add the steak and stir well, then add the thick coconut milk and thin coconut milk, makrut leaves, salt, fish sauce and chilli and return to the boil, stirring often. Simmer until the beef is tender. If the beef has not become tender and the sauce seems to be cooking away, add a little more coconut milk or hot water — the sauce should be rich and red, and there should be quite a lot of it. Serve with white rice and accompaniments.

YAM NANG MU

Pork skin salad

SERVES: 6

125 g (½ cup) finely sliced boiled pork rind

125 g (½ cup) finely chopped boiled lean pork

1 large handful fresh mint leaves

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, finely minced, or ½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

3 tablespoons dried prawn powder

2–3 tablespoons coconut cream

1 tablespoon shrimp sauce

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1–2 teaspoons grated palm sugar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 tablespoon chopped spring onion

Remove the fat from the pork rind and use only the jelly-like skin.

Mix together the pork and pork rind, mint, lemongrass, prawn powder, coconut cream, shrimp sauce, lime juice, fish sauce and palm sugar in a bowl. Sprinkle over the coriander and spring onion and serve immediately.

MU WAN

Sweet pork

Sweet pork is mainly used as an ingredient in other dishes, but is also delicious eaten with a hot chilli sauce with rice.

500 g pork loin

70 g (½ cup) grated palm sugar

125 ml (½ cup) fish sauce

Remove and reserve the pork rind and cut the meat into thin slices. Put the pork and rind into a saucepan with the palm sugar, fish sauce and 750 ml (3 cups) water and bring to the boil. Skim any scum from the surface, then reduce the heat to low and simmer the pork for 30–40 minutes. Uncover and continue simmering until the pork is tender and the fat is translucent, and the rind is very soft. Allow to cool in the stock and use as directed.

SI-KLOK

Pork and crab sausage

SERVES: 4–6

To make this recipe you’ve got to have one of two things — lots of patience or an efficient sausage-making machine. I don’t have either, but was well into it before I realised I needed them. The sausage is delicious and will spoil you for ordinary sausages for a long time to come, but it does take time and perseverance to fill the sausage skin. (When patience ran out I used the remaining mixture to make tiny balls, fried them in a small amount of oil until well cooked and they tasted great.)

185 g minced (ground) pork

125 g crab meat

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 tablespoons roasted peanuts, coarsely ground

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 teaspoons red curry paste

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons thick coconut milk

sausage skins (available from butcher shops)

Put the pork, crab meat, onion, coriander, peanuts and fish sauce into a bowl and use your hands to thoroughly combine.

In a separate bowl, combine the curry paste, salt and coconut milk, then add to the pork mixture and continue kneading until very well combined.

Pack the mixture into the sausage skin and fasten both ends firmly with a knot. Prick the sausage in several places with a fine bamboo skewer. Curl the sausage into a large flat coil.

Grill the sausage under a preheated griller (broiler) as far away from the heat as possible for 25 minutes, turning once during cooking, so that the sausage cooks evenly. The authentic method of cooking is to grill the sausage over glowing coals and when cooking is nearly done to sprinkle some of the coconut from which the milk was squeezed, over the coals. This will make smoke which will give more flavour to the sausage. Serve warm or cold.

Note: Sausage skin can be bought from your butcher. Run cold water through the skin before filling with the mixture.

YUM HOA PLEE

Banana flower salad

SERVES: 6

As banana blossom is more frequently available these days, it is well worth trying it in this salad. Correct preparation is important as merely shredding it and throwing it in a dish will result in a mouth-puckering astringency that will deter any further experiments with this attractive edible blossom. When it is hard to find, you will still have a delicious salad by substituting it with witlof (chicory) or Chinese cabbage (wong bok).

Banana flower salad

400 g banana flower or witlof (chicory)

juice of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon salt

35 g (½ cup) shredded coconut

1 yam bean (jicama) (glossary), peeled and cut into thin matchsticks

1 large handful fresh mint leaves

1 large handful fresh coriander leaves

2 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves, thinly sliced

1 small red onion, quartered and thinly sliced

½ cup fried onion flakes

Poached chicken

1 coriander stem and root

1 garlic clove, bruised

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 makrut (kaffir lime) leaf, torn

500 g chicken tenderloins or 12 raw large prawns, peeled and deveined

Dressing

45 g (⅓ cup) grated palm sugar

2 tablespoons boiling water

2 tablespoons tamarind pulp

1–2 tablespoons chilli jam

2 tablespoons coconut cream

Begin a few hours before serving by removing the leathery outer leaves of the banana flower, keeping three or four attractive ones to decorate the serving plate.

Pull away the next six leaves and discard the small tube-shaped blossoms, but reserve the large petals. Cut the flower in half lengthways then into fine shreds. Combine 1 litre (4 cups) water with the lemon juice and salt and add the shredded leaves, tossing to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

To make the dressing, combine the palm sugar and boiling water in a jug and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the tamarind pulp, chilli jam and coconut cream and stir well to combine. Set aside until needed.

To poach the chicken, put 750 ml (3 cups) water into a large saucepan. Add the coriander stems, garlic, fish sauce and makrut leaf. Bring to the boil, then add the chicken and bring back to a simmer. Cover, turn off the heat and let sit for 5 minutes, or until the chicken is just cooked through. Remove the chicken from the poaching liquid using a slotted spoon and set aside.

Meanwhile, toast the coconut in a dry frying pan over low heat, watching carefully as it burns without warning. When a rich golden colour, tip onto a flat plate to cool.

Drain the banana flower shreds and place in a large bowl. Add the yam bean, mint, coriander, makrut leaves and onion. Add the onion flakes and coconut and toss to combine.

Pour the dressing over the salad and toss well to coat. Serve the salad on a plate decorated with the reserved outer flower petals, then top with the sliced poached chicken.

Note: If using prawns, follow the same method for cooking as for the chicken. Prawns are cooked when they turn opaque and the tails curl.

YAM MA MUANG

Green mango or apple salad

SERVES: 6

In Thailand this would be made with green (unripe) mangoes. If you know someone with a tree, pick some while the skin is green and the fruit too firm to yield to pressure. If hard green mangoes are not readily available, substitute tart green apples.

2 green (unripe) mangoes or 3 green cooking apples

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon peanut oil

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

250 g pork fillet, finely chopped

1 tablespoon dried prawn powder

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 tablespoons roasted peanuts, crushed

1 teaspoon grated palm sugar

finely chopped fresh red chillies (optional), to serve

If using mangoes, peel off and discard the skin and remove the stones. Coarsely grate the cheeks into long shreds. If using apples, peel and slice them thinly, put them into a large bowl and toss to coat with the salt.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden, then remove to a plate. Cook the spring onion until soft, then remove to a plate.

Quickly stir-fry the pork in the wok until cooked, then add the prawn powder, fish sauce, peanuts and palm sugar and toss to combine. Remove from the heat and pour into a large serving bowl to cool slightly.

Just before serving, mix in the mangoes or apple, season with freshly grated black pepper, to taste, and sprinkle over the chilli, if desired.

YAM SOM-OR

Pomelo salad

SERVES: 6

This relative of the grapefruit is available in both white and pink varieties. Using both types makes for a very pretty salad. If pomelo is not available, grapefruit may be substituted.

1 pomelo

¼ cup dried shrimp

1 garlic clove

1–2 red chillies, seeded and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon grated palm sugar

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, very thinly sliced

Use a sharp knife to peel off the skin and remove all of the white pith from the pomelo. Break apart the segments by cutting between the membranes. Discard any seeds.

Lightly toast the dried shrimp in a dry frying pan over low heat. Allow to cool slightly, then transfer to a food processor and process until shredded.

Crush the garlic and half of the chilli using a mortar and pestle, then place in a bowl with the palm sugar, fish sauce and lime juice. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then mix in the shredded shrimp and the lemongrass and pour it onto the bowl of pomelo segments. Arrange on a serving plate and decorate with the remaining chilli slices.

NAM PRIK

Thai shrimp sauce

MAKES: 1 CUP

Nam prik in its various versions is what Thais use to season almost everything they eat. Use white rice to provide a neutral background to the pungency of the sauce.

2 tablespoons dried shrimp

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

4 garlic cloves

2 teaspoons sambal ulek or 2 fresh red chillies, chopped

2 teaspoons grated palm sugar

2 tablespoons lime juice

1½ tablespoons soy sauce

Soak the dried shrimp in hot water for 20 minutes. Drain well.

Wrap the dried shrimp paste in a piece of foil and roast under a preheated griller (broiler) for 5 minutes, turning halfway through. Unwrap and place in a food processor with the dried shrimp, garlic, sambal ulek, palm sugar, lime juice, soy sauce and 60 ml (¼ cup) water and process until smooth. Store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

KAPI PLA

Shrimp paste sambal

MAKES: 1 CUP

This is about as pungent as an accompaniment can get. If you want to know the authentic flavour of Thailand, you owe it to yourself to try it.

3 tablespoons dried shrimp paste

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

2 tablespoons dried prawn powder

60 ml (¼ cup) lime or lemon juice

1 tablespoon grated palm sugar

fish sauce, to taste

1 teaspoon finely shredded lime or lemon zest

finely chopped fresh red chillies, to garnish

Wrap the dried shrimp paste in a piece of foil and roast under a preheated griller (broiler) for 5 minutes, turning halfway through. Allow to cool.

Pound the onion and garlic together using a mortar and pestle, then gradually add the dried shrimp paste, dried prawn powder and lime juice and work into a paste. Add the palm sugar and fish sauce, mixing well to combine. Press into a small bowl or form into a mound and garnish with the shreds of lime zest and the chilli.

NAM PRIK PAU

Chilli Jam

MAKES: 3 CUPS

This is a versatile condiment to have on hand as it doubles as a stir-fry seasoning for greens and can be used in dressings for Thai salads.

50 g large dried red chillies

375 ml (1½ cups) boiling water

125 g tamarind pulp

250 ml (1 cup) vegetable oil

250 g garlic, finely chopped

60 g ginger, peeled and finely chopped

400 g tin chopped tomatoes

125 ml (½ cup) fish sauce

200 g (1⅓ cups) grated palm sugar

Soak the chillies in 185 ml (¾ cup) boiling water for 20 minutes, or until softened. Drain well and process in a food processor until finely chopped.

Soak the tamarind pulp in the remaining boiling water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Set aside.

Place the oil, garlic and ginger into a large heavy-based saucepan and simmer, stirring continuously, for about 10 minutes, or until light golden. Add the tomatoes, fish sauce, palm sugar and tamarind liquid. Cook for 20 minutes over medium heat. Chilli jam can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.

TUPTIM GROB

Crisp rubies

SERVES: 6–8

‘Tuptim’ means rubies and ‘grob’ means crisp or crunchy, These cubes of water chestnuts or yam beans make a delightful dessert. While water chestnuts are mostly available in tins, yam beans are seasonally available fresh and providing they are young and sweet are an easy alternative. Nashi pears are also commonly found and give a similar crunchy result.

110 g (½ cup) sugar

535 g tin whole water chestnuts, drained, or 500 g yam bean (jicama) (glossary) or nashi pear, peeled and diced

red liquid food colouring

green liquid food colouring

1 tablespoon rosewater

150 g (1 cup) tapioca flour or potato starch

125 ml (½ cup) coconut milk

shaved ice, to serve (optional)

To make the sugar syrup, put the sugar and 185 ml (¾ cup) water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and refrigerate until cool. Set aside.

Cut the water chestnuts into quarters. If using yam beans or nashi pear, peel first, then cut into 5 mm dice.

Pour about 125 ml (½ cup) water into two separate bowls and put a few drops of red food colouring in one and green in the other. Add the rosewater to the pink water for flavour.

Place half of the diced water chestnuts into the pink water and half into the green water and leave to soak up the colour for 1 hour. Drain well.

Place the tapioca flour in two separate bowls and keeping the colours separate, toss the water chestnuts in each bowl to coat evenly, shaking off any excess.

Bring two saucepans of water to the boil and add the pink cubes to one and the green to the other, scooping them into a bowl of iced water when they rise to the surface and the flour coating is translucent. Drain when cool.

Put the green cubes into a serving bowl, then the syrup. Place the red cubes on top. Pour the coconut milk over the top with some shaved ice, if desired. Serve within 4 hours of making.

KHAO NIEO KAEO

Sweet coconut rice

SERVES: 6–8

Glutinous (sticky) rice is a popular Thai dessert. Both white and black sticky rice are used.

500 g (2¼ cups) glutinous rice

625 ml (2½ cups) coconut milk

80 g (⅔ cup) grated palm sugar

Soak the rice overnight in water. Put the rice and 1.25 litres (5 cups) water in a saucepan and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the grains are tender and all of the liquid has been absorbed.

Add the coconut milk and palm sugar and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until all of the milk has been absorbed. Turn onto a plate and flatten with the back of a spoon. Allow to cool and set, then cut into diamond shapes. Serve as a dessert or snack with sliced ripe bananas or coconut and palm sugar sweet (na kachik) (below).

NA KACHIK

Coconut and palm sugar sweet

SERVES: 6–8

A filling or topping for sweet coconut rice, above, or simply serve with rice.

70 g (½ cup) grated palm sugar

250 g (5 cups) freshly grated coconut

1 pinch of salt

Put the palm sugar and 60 ml (¼ cup) water into a small saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the coconut and salt and stir until the mixture thickens. If this is to be used as a filling, it should be stiff enough to hold its shape in a spoon.

Note: Instead of fresh coconut you can use 90 g (1 cup) desiccated coconut that has first been soaked in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot milk.

KHANOM TALAI

Steamed coconut milk pudding

MAKES: 10 SMALL SERVES

Very reminiscent of a Sri Lankan sweet called ‘seenakku’, this steamed pudding made from coconut milk and rice flour sweetened with palm sugar is a simple dessert. Yet, when made in Thailand the coconut milk is extracted using scented water … water infused with jasmine or other sweet-smelling blossoms, a romantic and fanciful notion so typical of the imaginative and inspired nature of Thai cuisine.

125 ml (½ cup) coconut cream

2½ tablespoons rice flour

60 g (⅓ cup) finely chopped palm sugar

185 ml (¾ cup) thick coconut milk

1 pinch of salt

Mix together the coconut cream with 1 tablespoon of the rice flour in a bowl, stirring until smooth. Set aside.

In another bowl, dissolve the palm sugar in the coconut milk and stir in the salt.

Put the remaining rice flour in a third bowl and gradually add the sweetened coconut milk mixture, stirring until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve, then pour into ten 60 ml (¼ cup) capacity moulds or cups so they are two-thirds full.

Set the cups carefully in a steamer basket over simmering water and steam for 15 minutes, or until set. Pour enough of the reserved coconut cream to almost fill each mould, cover, and steam for a further 20-25 minutes. Allow to cool and serve at room temperature.

SANKHAYA

Steamed custard in pumpkin shell

SERVES: 4–6

This custard may also be steamed in young coconuts, husks removed and the shell cut straight across the top. This quantity fills a medium-sized butternut pumpkin. For a large pumpkin, double the quantities.

185 ml (¾ cup) thick coconut milk

70 g (½ cup) grated palm sugar

3 eggs, lightly beaten

a few drops of rosewater

1 butternut or small jap pumpkin

sweetened coconut milk, to serve (optional)

If possible, extract the coconut milk using freshly grated coconut and scented water, which is how this custard would be made in Thailand. Otherwise use the normal method of extracting milk from desiccated coconut, using milk instead of water since it should be very rich.

Combine the palm sugar and egg in a bowl, add the coconut milk and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Add just enough of the rosewater, to taste.

Wash the pumpkin well, and if it is a large round one cut a hole in the top and remove all the seeds and spongy tissue, scraping well with a spoon to leave the pumpkin smooth. If it is a long straight pumpkin, cut off the top and then cut a round hole into the centre to remove the seeds and spongy tissue, leaving a shell of pumpkin about 2.5 cm thick. Cut a thin slice off the bottom so it has a flat base to sit on in the steamer.

Strain the custard and pour into the pumpkin to come just to the top. Put the pumpkin in a dish so that it fits snugly and put the dish and pumpkin in a steamer. Steam for 1 hour, or until a knife inserted in the centre of the custard comes out clean.

Cool, then chill and serve the pumpkin, cut into slices so that there is a portion of custard surrounded by pumpkin. Run a knife around the edge of each slice and remove the skin. Serve with sweetened coconut milk for pouring over, if desired.

KHANOM BUALOI

Golden bean cakes

SERVES: 8–10

This mung bean mixture can be modelled into tiny fruit shapes and painted with food colouring. Either roll in caster sugar or dip in an agar glaze for traditional looking ‘Lug Chup’.

250 g mung beans

220 g (1 cup) sugar, plus 75 g (⅓ cup), extra

caster sugar, to coat

Soak the mung beans in cold water for 24 hours, then change the water several times and wash the beans so that all the green skins float away. Drain well.

Put the mung beans into a saucepan with enough water to just come level with the beans and bring to the boil. Cook until the beans are very soft. Drain well and while the beans are still hot, mash to a smooth paste.

Put the sugar and 125 ml (½ cup) water in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Add the bean paste and cook, stirring occasionally at the start and more frequently as the mixture thickens. When the bean mixture is thick and starts to come away from the side of the pan, it is ready. Allow to cool until it can be handled, and make small balls from the paste.

Put the extra sugar and 1 tablespoon water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar and cook over gentle heat until the syrup spins a thread.

Dip each ball in the sugar syrup, then toss in the caster sugar to coat and set aside to dry. Place in small paper cases, to serve.

Note: For Lug Chup, add 125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk to the mashed mung bean mixture and cook over medium heat, stirring until it clings together and comes away from the side of the pan. When cool enough to handle, form into balls about the size of a macadamia nut, then mould into desired fruit shapes. Insert one end of a toothpick into the fruit and the other into polystyrene foam. Paint with food colouring and allow to cool, Put 3 teaspoons agar-agar powder and 500 ml (2 cups) water in a saucepan and stir over low heat until dissolved. Cool slightly and dip the fruits, then allow to dry. A second coat, after the first has dried, gives a super shiny result

NARAYANA BANTOM SINDHU

Vishnu in the sea of milk

SERVES: 6–8

A sweet ice-cold drink that is most refreshing in Thailand’s hot climate. Use scented water, as the Thais do, by soaking jasmine flowers or roses in water overnight (or substitute rosewater) for flavouring the cooked mixture and for scenting the water used to extract the coconut milk. This is popularly known as ‘sa rim’.

2 tablespoons mung bean flour (glossary)

2–3 teaspoons rosewater, or to taste

green food colouring

55 g (¼ cup) sugar

1 litre (4 cups) coconut milk

crushed ice

Put the bean flour and 500 ml (2 cups) water in a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens and becomes clear. Remove from the heat, then stir in the rosewater to give a faint but definite flavour.

Tint the mixture a delicate shade of green, then push through a colander into a bowl of cold water. Leave until firm, drain and refrigerate until chilled.

Put the sugar in a bowl with the coconut milk and stir well to dissolve. Add a little rosewater and refrigerate until chilled.

When you are ready to serve, put a large spoonful of the bean flour mixture into a tall glass, fill with the flavoured coconut milk and crushed ice and serve immediately.

KHAO NIEW DUM

Black sticky rice

SERVES: 4–6

220 g (1 cup) black glutinous rice

¼ teaspoon salt, plus ½ teaspoon extra

45 g (⅓ cup) grated palm sugar, plus extra to serve

2 tablespoons lightly toasted sesame seeds

65 g (1 cup) grated fresh coconut, plus extra to serve

coconut cream, to serve (optional)

Soak the rice in water overnight, then drain well, reserving 185 ml (¾ cup) of the soaking water.

Put the rice and salt into a heatproof bowl. Pour enough water into a large saucepan to come 2 cm up the sides and place a trivet in the pan. Put the bowl of rice on the trivet then bring to the boil and cook for 45–60 minutes, refreshing the water from time to time so it doesn’t boil dry.

Remove from the heat and while the rice is still warm, stir through the palm sugar to dissolve.

Meanwhile, lightly bruise the sesame seeds with the extra salt using a mortar and pestle.

To serve, either divide the rice between the holes of a lightly oiled muffin tin to make attractive individual serves, or simply scoop out of the cooking vessel with a wet spoon to prevent the grains sticking to it and serve in small bowls. Garnish with grated coconut, sesame seeds and extra grated palm sugar, if desired. Drizzle with coconut cream, if desired.

Note: Instead of cooking the rice this way you can cook it in a rice cooker — use 750 ml (3 cups) water for 1 cup of soaked rice.

I-TIM KATI

Coconut ice cream

SERVES: 6–8

The taste of this ice cream whisks me back in time to a memorable evening at the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok. Served fresh from the churn at the end of a lavish meal, its icy coldness was much appreciated by guests at the festive celebrations of the Loy Krathong festival.

2 teaspoons powdered gelatine

55 g (¼ cup) sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

200 ml tinned condensed milk

20 g (¼ cup) shredded coconut, lightly toasted (optional)

Sprinkle the gelatine over 60 ml (¼ cup) water in a heatproof bowl and leave for 15 minutes to soften.

Put 125 ml (½ cup) water into a large saucepan with the sugar and salt and bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Stir the gelatine mixture into the hot syrup until completely dissolved.

Put the coconut milk into a large bowl and add the gelatine syrup and the condensed milk, whisking lightly until well combined. Transfer to an ice cream machine and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer into a freezer container and freeze until required.

If no churn is available, partly freeze in a freezer container until it is a slushy consistency then break up the ice crystals by blending with a hand mixer or stick blender before freezing it again.

Remove from the freezer and refrigerate for 5 minutes to soften before serving. Garnish with the toasted shredded coconut, if desired.

CAMBODIA AND LAOS

CAMBODIA (KHMER)

Rice is the staff of life, as in all of Asia, and you won’t have to drive far out of Cambodia’s cities to see how much land is dedicated to growing it. While it is shooting, the paddy fields are a patchwork of vibrant green. Later in the season you can drive through the villages and see the harvested rice, golden grains drying in the sun on large woven mats. Many rural families grow enough rice for their own needs and also raise their own chickens.

However, not all farming takes place on dry land, and floating villages on the Mekong and its tributaries are a unique part of Cambodian culture. Every aspect of life is catered to, from church to school to floating ‘farmyards’ of pigs and chickens. Fishermen rhythmically beat their nets with sticks to release the tiny, flailing silver fish caught up in them – presumably for making fish sauce. No trip to Cambodia would be complete without a glimpse of life on the river.

The principal diet of the people is rice and fish. Fish and shellfish are plentiful, from both the Mekong River and the sea. Vegetables grow easily in the tropical heat of this often lush, green land and make up a substantial part of the local diet. Many village families will cultivate a garden plot to grow bananas and other fruit and vegetables for their own needs, but daily visits to the markets are still necessary as refrigeration is still virtually unknown in rural communities.

Buffalo meat, pork, chicken, duck, pigeons and tiny paddy birds (even smaller than sparrows), which come to the rice fields and are captured in nets, are eaten with enjoyment, but in much smaller quantities than in the West. Meat and poultry are never the main dish, but always the accompaniment. Rice is served boiled with fish or a little poultry or buffalo meat for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sometimes a bowl of noodle soup may take its place at breakfast, but for the two main meals of the day it is rice (cooked without salt) that is the central dish. It is accompanied by fried fish, kari, vegetables and a soup. All the dishes are served at once, and diners make their own choice. Mutton (or lamb) is not eaten at all.

‘Cambodian food is very much like Thai or Lao food with a touch of Chinese influence,’ I was told by John Lee Kha and Miss Lyna, people from Cambodia who I interviewed when I was researching this book. There is no doubt there are flavours common to all three cuisines.

As we talked over lunch, I noticed that John’s cup was filled with what seemed to be water, yet it steamed like hot tea. When I asked him what was generally drunk with meals in Cambodia, he told me that tea or coffee are seldom served and when tea is served, Chinese tea is preferred, but it is usual for a cup of warm water (gesturing towards his cup) to be sipped along with the meal. In very hot weather the evening meal might consist only of plain boiled rice to give the digestion a rest.

Cambodian cooking is full of flavour, but many of the herbs used are not widely available outside Southeast Asia, so I have chosen dishes using the better-known flavourings. As in most other Asian countries, cooking in Cambodia is not an exact science, but everything is cooked ‘to taste’ and the cook is expected to use originality and initiative to improve the flavour of a dish.

In common with the people of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Burma, Cambodians consider fish sauce, tirk trey, next to rice in importance. It would be unthinkable for them to have to do without it, or prahok, their pungent fermented fish paste.

A very popular Cambodian dish is trei aing, fish grilled over charcoal and served with a dish of raw vegetables such as cucumber slices and fresh bean sprouts, salad greens and fresh herbs (mint, dill, coriander). But this is incomplete until the pungent sauce is served. The sauce is based on fish sauce with garlic, fresh chillies, lemon juice, sugar and vinegar, up to which point it is strikingly similar to Vietnam’s nuoc cham. But the Cambodian version also includes roasted ground peanuts, an ingredient it shares with Laotian and Thai sauces. Small pieces of the grilled fish are wrapped in a salad leaf with cucumber, bean sprouts and a sprig or two of fresh herbs and the whole parcel is dipped in the sauce before being eaten with rice.

Although there is not the same emphasis on sweet desserts as in the West, you may eat your fill of luscious tropical bounty, for most fruits you can imagine are available in their season. With tropical fruits on offer, such as rambutan, longan, mangosteen, dragon fruit, milkfruit, sapodilla, pineapple, small mandarins, roseapple, pomegranate, young coconut, tiny bananas, mangoes and the much maligned durian, who needs to cook dessert?

LAOS

The most distinctive feature of Laotian cuisine is the prominence given to sticky rice. In other Asian countries, sticky (or glutinous) rice, sometimes called ‘sweet rice’, is used exclusively for sweets or little snacks, but Laotians prefer this rice for all kinds of dishes and serve it at mealtimes. For breakfast, glutinous rice is soaked for 8-10 hours, steamed until soft and eaten with mango, coconut or padek, a fish product made at home in which chunks of fish are preserved in brine. The liquid in which the fish is steeped is also used and is known as nam padek. The rice is also sometimes steamed and eaten with black beans or yams.

In Cambodian and Laotian cities, restaurants serving local food have only emerged in recent times. In the past, when people ate out, they would traditionally eat excellent Chinese or French food. Interestingly, the French influence on the food of these countries has not mingled with the local dishes; it has remained separate and become very popular. However, the interest of tourists who want to taste the local cuisine as well as the growing popularity of these countries as tourist destinations has resulted in the emergence of restaurants serving national dishes.

When I wrote this cookbook, the only opportunity for eating local cuisine was to be invited into a Lao home. Lao dishes take a long time to prepare and all the ingredients have to be fresh. Meals are not planned in advance and the menu depends on whatever is available when mealtime comes. They would never consider using frozen food. Lao people enjoy eating fresh meat, fresh vegetables and fresh fruit. Not many people have refrigerators in which to store their food, and even if they had they would not choose to store it for long.

Every typical Lao house has a small garden in front or at the back to grow vegetables and the myriad herbs that are used in Laotian food – different types of mint, lemongrass, galangal, Lao eggplant (aubergine), chillies of various kinds and banana trees are the most common. The banana tree is put to many uses. The fruit is eaten both fresh and ripe, or cooked as a vegetable when it is starchy and unripe. The large, heavy flower is also used as a vegetable. The leaves are invaluable for wrapping food before steaming or grilling over coals and even the inside of the tree trunk is used. Some ingredients — onions, garlic, chilli, tamarind, among others are dried and stored for use when they are out of season.

The daily income is far from sufficient for most families, so some of the men hunt for food and are rewarded with deer or other game. Others go fishing, for there are plenty of fish in the many tributaries of the Mekong River. Chickens, ducks, pigs and turkeys are commonly reared for food.

The meals eaten in Laos are simple. For breakfast, sticky rice is served with black or white coffee. Sometimes tasty morsels of dried meat, fried chicken, beef, fish or pork may be served with the rice and accompanied by chilli paste.

Lunch is rice again, accompanied by soup, a fish, meat or chicken dish, some fresh or cooked vegetables and, of course, the hot sauce. The evening meal is similar, but far from repetitive or dull. An imaginative cook, in Laos as elsewhere, can vary the same main ingredients with a hundred different combinations of flavours. On Sundays, for a special lunch, the traditional dish called lap or koy is prepared. After Sunday breakfast one visits the local market for a leg of fresh venison and some of the deer’s liver as well as one or two vegetables. Back home, the preparation begins. All the best meat is cut into thin slices or minced. The scraps and the bone are used to make strong, tasty stocks and broths.

Meanwhile, the liver is cut into thin slices like the meat; dried red chillies are fried and then ground; glutinous rice is roasted until dark brown, then pounded finely; galangal is scraped and cut into shreds; spring onions are sliced; three kinds of mint are chopped; fish paste is cooked and mixed to a sauce which is served with the lap, and some wild vegetables and bitter greens are picked from the garden or from a neighbouring garden. Like so many Asian cultures, Laotians are generous and very willing to share, and when the food is cooked a dish of it is often sent to friends and neighbours.

Just before the meal is served, fish sauce, lime juice and spring onion are added to the stock to ‘sharpen the taste’. The raw meat and liver are mixed with lime juice, ground chilli, ground rice, galangal and herbs. Steamed sticky rice, which is kept warm in woven bamboo baskets, is served alongside. Lap also means ‘luck’, so this dish is traditionally served at weddings, house-warming ceremonies and other important occasions. Instead of venison one may substitute fresh fish, chicken or halfcooked pork. Rice wine is usually served.

SERVING AND EATING A CAMBODIAN AND LAOTIAN MEAL

Though dining tables are sometimes used, most people prefer to sit on a mat on the floor around a large rattan tray. Each tray is big enough to accommodate six people and stands about 40–50 cm high. All the dishes are placed on the tray and the rice baskets are put between the diners. Forks and spoons might be used, but fingers are used to eat sticky rice. A tray of fresh bananas, papayas or other fruit is placed on one side so that people can help themselves after the meal.

UTENSILS

Of prime importance in a Cambodian or Laotian kitchen, as in most of Southeast Asia, is a mortar and pestle. So is a sharp chopper and stout chopping board. Cooking is done in a wok, and steaming takes place in bamboo baskets or over earthenware pots of water.

For the recipes that follow, a wok plus the equipment in a Western kitchen will suffice.

YOUR CAMBODIAN AND LAOTIAN SHELF

This is a list of spices, sauces, sambals and other flavourings which are often used in Camdodian and Laotian cooking and good to have on hand to make the recipes in this chapter.

bamboo shoots, tinned

black pepper, ground

cellophane (bean starch) noodles

chilli powder

chillies, dried red and fresh

coconut milk and cream

coriander, ground

cornflour

cumin, ground

dried shrimp

fennel, ground

fermented fish paste (prahok)

fish sauce

galangal, fresh or brined

green peppercorns, in brine

laos (dried galangal) powder

palm sugar

peanut oil

peanuts, raw or roasted (unsalted)

rice wine or dry sherry

sesame oil

sesame seeds

shiitake mushrooms, dried

soy sauce, light and dark

turmeric, ground

water chestnuts, tinned

wood fungus, dried

BAY POUN

Moulded rice

SERVES: 4

500 g (2½ cups) long-grain rice

1 teaspoon salt

125 g (½ cup) chopped pork fat

125 g (½ cup) chopped lean pork

125 g (½ cup) chopped chicken meat

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

fish sauce, to taste, plus extra to serve

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Put the rice, salt and 1 litre (4 cups) water into a large saucepan. Bring to the boil, cover, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, by which time all of the water should be absorbed. Remove the lid and allow the steam to escape while preparing the meats.

Put the pork fat into a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat and stir-fry until it is crisp and golden and the fat is melted. Add the lean pork and chicken meat, with the garlic and spring onion and stir-fry for 10 minutes, or until the meats are well cooked. Add the rice, which has been forked through, and toss well to combine, then add the fish sauce and pepper, to taste. Remove from the heat, press firmly into a lightly greased 1.5 litre (6 cup) capacity mould, cover with foil and keep warm. Turn out and serve with extra fish sauce, if desired.

Note: This recipe is perfect for using up leftover white rice, in which case, 4 cups of cooked rice is needed.

PHU KHOUA KAI NOR MAY

Long rice with chicken and bamboo shoots

SERVES: 6

500 g chicken pieces

1 garlic clove, crushed

250 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

1 tablespoon peanut oil

2 tinned bamboo shoots, thinly sliced lengthways

1 onion, cut into wedges

1 tablespoon fish sauce

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

125 ml (½ cup) chicken stock or water

Remove any bones from the chicken and cut the meat and any skin into small pieces. Place in a bowl with the garlic and mix to combine.

Soak the noodles in hot water for 15 minutes, then drop into lightly-salted boiling water and cook for 5-8 minutes, or until tender. Drain well and cut into short lengths.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the chicken and stir-fry until the flesh turns white. Push to one side of the wok, add the bamboo shoots and onion, separated into layers, and stir-fry for 1 minute, then toss with the chicken to combine. Add the fish sauce, pepper and stock, and stir-fry for 2 minutes longer, tossing to mix with the sauce. Add the noodles and stir to combine. Serve hot with rice.

KANG HED SAY HOM POM

Mushroom soup with coriander

SERVES: 8

1 tablespoon butter or ghee

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 small white onion, finely chopped

500 g fresh button or field mushrooms, finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 chicken stock (bouillon) cubes (optional)

875 ml (3½ cups) milk or coconut milk

3 teaspoons cornflour

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and cook until softened. Add the mushrooms, ground coriander and cumin and continue to stir-fry for a few minutes. Add the salt and pepper, then cover, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 625 ml (2½ cups) hot water and the stock cubes, if using, and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the milk and bring back to the boil once more, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat.

In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water to make a smooth paste. Add to the soup and stir to combine. Return to the heat and bring to the boil, stirring constantly until the soup thickens. Serve immediately, garnished with coriander.

Note: If not using stock cubes, adjust the seasoning by addingdding salt, to taste, before serving.

KANG KUNG

Melon and dried shrimp soup

SERVES: 6

25 g (½ cup) dried shrimp

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

500 g winter melon (winter gourd) or cucumbers

2 litres (8 cups) chicken stock

1–2 tablespoons fish sauce, or to taste

6 thin slices fresh ginger

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

Put the dried shrimp and 250 ml (1 cup) water into a bowl and leave to soak overnight. Drain.

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain well, cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Peel the melon and scoop out the seeds and membrane. If using cucumber, peel and remove the seeds. Cut the flesh into bite-sized pieces.

Put the stock, fish sauce, ginger, mushroom and dried shrimp into a saucepan, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for at least 30 minutes. Discard the ginger slices. Add the melon or cucumber and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Serve hot.

KANG SOM PA

Laotian fish soup

SERVES: 4–6

500 g skinless, boneless freshwater fish fillets

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, bruised, or 2 strips lemon zest

½ teaspoon salt, plus extra to taste

2 tablespoons fish sauce, plus extra to taste

2 tomatoes, quartered

4 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

lemon juice, to taste

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving portions (see preparing whole fish).

Put 1 litre (4 cups) water into a saucepan with the lemongrass and salt and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the fish and fish sauce and bring back to the boil. Add the tomato, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, discard the lemongrass and stir in the spring onion, coriander and lemon juice. Add more fish sauce or salt, to taste, if needed. Serve hot.

KHAO POUN

Long rice soup

SERVES: 4–6

100 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

125 g minced (ground) pork

125 g (⅓ cup) finely chopped smoked ham

1 tablespoon chopped water chestnuts

½ teaspoon cornflour

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

1.25 litres (5 cups) boiling water or hot chicken stock

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon finely chopped spring onion

Soak the noodles in cold water for 30 minutes. Drain and cut into 15 cm lengths.

In a bowl, mix together the pork, ham, water chestnuts, cornflour and soy sauce until well combined. Take portions of the mixture at a time and shape into small balls.

Put the noodles in a saucepan with the boiling water and salt and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the balls to the soup, bring back to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes without stirring. Add the spring onion and serve.

SAMLOR CHROUK

Pork soup

SERVES: 4

500 g pork chops, bones reserved for stock and meat finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 star anise

whole black peppercorns

1 leek, white part only or onion

1 garlic clove

1 tablespoon oil

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon finely shredded young ginger

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

To make the stock, put the pork bones into a large saucepan with enough water to cover. Add the salt, star anise, peppercorns, leek and garlic clove and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for at least 30 minutes. Strain and reserve 1.25 litres (5 cups) stock.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the finely chopped garlic and cook until soft. Add the pork and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the stock, fish sauce, lemon juice, sugar and ginger. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the pork is cooked. Sprinkle with coriander. Serve hot.

KDARM CHHA MRECH KCHAY

Kep crab with fresh Kampot peppercorns

SERVES: 6

It’s hard to imagine a more decadent way to spend a lazy January afternoon in Kep than sitting in a restaurant perched over the bay on stilts, the gentle lapping of waves below providing the soundtrack for a memorable leisurely lunch. Our table was against the railing that separates the restaurant from the fishermen at work; some on boats mending nets, others wading into the shallows to empty and re-set crab pots. All this, while sipping on young coconut juice and cajoling every last morsel of succulent flesh from freshly caught and cooked blue swimmers laced with fresh, bitey, green Kampot peppercorns. Now that’s what I call finger-licking good.

1 kg raw or cooked blue swimmer crabs

6 drupes fresh green peppercorns (see note) or 2 tablespoons green peppercorns in brine, drained

2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil

1 red capsicum (pepper), seeded and sliced

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

10 spring onions, thinly sliced

Sauce

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

2 teaspoons grated palm sugar

2 teaspoons fish sauce

1 teaspoon cornflour

Remove the large shells from the crabs and discard the fibrous tissue under the shell. Divide each crab into four portions, breaking each body in half and separating the claws from the body, leaving the legs attached. Drain on paper towel.

If using green peppercorns in brine, rinse and bruise gently. If fresh drupes are very big, break them into smaller bunches.

To make the sauce mix together the soy sauce, oyster sauce and palm sugar in a bowl, stirring until dissolved. Add the fish sauce, and 60 ml (¼ cup) water and stir well, then set aside.

To prepare the raw crab, heat half of the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the capsicum and stir-fry for 2 minutes, or until softened slightly, then remove to a plate.

Heat the remaining oil in the wok and cook the crab over high heat for about 3 minutes, or until it turns bright red. Add the garlic and green peppercorns and cook for a few seconds, then reduce the heat to medium and add the sauce. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. (If using cooked crab, just heat through for 2–3 minutes.) Remove the crab to a plate and set aside.

In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water to make a smooth paste. Add to the sauce in the wok and stir while it boils and thickens. Return the crab to the wok, add the spring onion and the capsicum and toss to coat.

To serve, arrange the crab on a large serving plate and serve hot with finger bowls and shell plates. White rice is a good foil for the sauce and the heat of the peppercorns.

Note: Although Kep crab traditionally uses blue swimmer crabs, for which the beach town is famous, it will be equally delicious using other crab varieties. Green peppercorns are sold, bottled in brine, in Asian grocery stores. Use them on the drupes, or stems, if possible.

PA KHING

Steamed fish with young ginger

SERVES: 4

750 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

125 g fresh young ginger

juice of 1 lemon, strained

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons lightly toasted sesame seeds

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

4 x 15 cm squares banana leaf

4 x 15 cm squares foil

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving portions (see preparing whole fish). Very young ginger is thin-skinned and will not need peeling. The translucent layers of skin will come away easily if scraped with a paring knife. Cut the ginger into paper-thin slices, then into the finest shreds possible. The effect should be thread-like slivers.

Put the ginger and lemon juice in a bowl with the fish, tossing to coat and set aside to marinate.

Heat the peanut and sesame oils in a small frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and cook until pale golden. Pour the oil and garlic over the ginger, then add the sesame seeds and soy and stir to combine. Rub over the fish fillets to coat.

Place a fish fillet onto each banana leaf and wrap to enclose, then steam the fish in a basket over a wok of simmering water for 15 minutes, or until cooked.

SOUSIPA

Fish with coconut cream

SERVES: 4

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

2 large dried red chillies, plus 6 small dried red chillies, extra

1 tablespoon oil

15 garlic cloves

3 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves

1 slice fresh galangal or 1 teaspoon laos (dried galangal) powder

2 stems lemongrass, white part only, thinly sliced

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

750 ml (3 cups) thin coconut milk

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts

4 sprigs of fresh basil

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into four serving portions (see preparing whole fish). Remove the stalks and seeds from the large dried chillies and soak in hot water for 10 minutes.

Heat the oil in a wok or small heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the small dried chillies and fry until puffed and dark. Set aside.

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the large chillies, garlic, makrut leaves, galangal and lemongrass to a paste. A food processor can be used, but you may need to add 1 tablespoon of thick coconut milk to keep the mixture in contact with the blades.

Heat the thick coconut milk in a saucepan over low heat for 10–15 minutes, or until the oil separates. Add the chilli mixture and simmer, stirring constantly. Add the fish fillets and turn them in the mixture, then add the thin coconut milk and fish sauce and simmer for a further 10 minutes. Add the peanuts just before serving. Garnish with the basil and the small deep-fried chillies.

TREI CHORM HOY

Steamed whole fish

SERVES: 4

750 g whole snapper or other white fish

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 spring onion, finely chopped

Clean and scale the fish, leaving the head on. To clean the cavity, wipe inside the fish cavity with damp paper towel that has first been dipped in coarse salt. Trim any long spines or fins neatly.

Steam the fish over boiling water for 15 minutes, or until cooked through.

Meanwhile, heat the peanut oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the ginger and spring onion and cook until soft but not brown. Remove from the heat, add the sesame oil and soy sauce and stir to combine.

Spoon the sauce over the fish on a large serving dish and serve immediately.

NOEUNG BONGKORNG

Lobster salad

SERVES: 6

250 g cooked lobster tail

250 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

1–2 pieces dried wood fungus

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon dried garlic flakes

125 g minced (ground) pork

3 tablespoons pounded dried shrimp

60 ml (¼ cup) fish sauce

55 g (¼ cup) sugar

80 ml (⅓ cup) lime juice

225 g (3 cups) shredded white Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

3 cucumbers, seeds removed and sliced

45 g (⅓ cup) finely chopped toasted peanuts

30 g (⅓ cup) desiccated coconut, toasted

salad greens, to serve

3 mandarins or oranges, segmented, to serve

3 pickled garlics, thinly sliced, to serve (glossary)

Vietnamese mint sprigs, to serve

Remove the lobster tail, slit the underside, remove the meat in one piece, devein and cut into medallions. Shred the remaining meat from the head into small pieces, reserving the shell for garnish.

Boil the noodles for 10 minutes. Drain and cut into short lengths. Soak the wood fungus in hot water for 20 minutes. Drain and finely shred, discarding any woody parts.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Fry the dried garlic flakes until pale golden, remove immediately with a skimmer and drain on paper towel.

Increase the heat to high, add the pork to the pan and stir-fry until brown. Add the dried shrimp, 1 tablespoon each of the fish sauce and sugar and fry until dry. Remove to a plate and cool.

Combine the remaining fish sauce, sugar and lime juice, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Add the remaining ingredients and toss well. Arrange on a platter lined with the salad greens. Place the lobster meat on top and garnish with the shell, mandarin, pickled garlic and mint. Serve at room temperature.

AMOK TREI

Yellow fish curry

SERVES: 4

This speciality is traditionally made with fish, although you can use chicken. Steamed in a coconut shell or banana leaf basket, this is one of Cambodia’s signature dishes. Serve with rice.

500 g skinless boneless firm white fish fillets

2 stems lemongrass, white part only, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh galangal

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 red Asian shallots, finely chopped

2 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves, sliced, plus extra to garnish

1 tablespoon chilli paste (optional)

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon fermented fish paste (prahok) or dried shrimp paste

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon palm sugar

½ teaspoon salt

200 ml thick coconut milk

1 egg

150 g (3⅓ cups) baby spinach leaves, sliced

banana leaves, for cooking

thinly sliced chilli, to garnish

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into small bite-sized pieces.

Put the lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots and one of the lime leaves into a food processor with the chilli paste, if using, turmeric, fish paste, fish sauce, palm sugar and salt. Add 1 tablespoon of the coconut milk to help keep the mixture moving over the blades. Place the curry paste in a bowl and stir in the egg, most of the coconut milk and the spinach, then stir through the fish.

Steam in banana leaf bowls, coconut shells or small dishes lined with banana leaf. Garnish with the remaining coconut milk, finely shredded lime leaf and extra chilli.

Note: If you prefer, omit the egg and simmer the spice mixture with the remaining ingredients in a saucepan for a fragrant yellow curry.

TREI CHEAN NOEUNG SPEI

Deep-fried fish with vegetables

SERVES: 4–6

750 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

125 ml (½ cup) oil

1 tablespoon egg white

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon cornflour, plus 1 teaspoon extra

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

150 g (2 cups) sliced Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

6 spring onions, cut into 5 cm lengths

2 tablespoons fish sauce

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into four or six serving portions (see preparing whole fish).

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Dip the fish in the egg white and then in the combined salt and cornflour, shaking off any excess. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the fish, in batches, for 1–2 minutes, or just long enough to cook it through — the time will vary depending on the thickness of the fish. Drain on paper towel and keep warm.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the oil, add the garlic, ginger and cabbage and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the spring onion and stir-fry for a further 1 minute. Add the fish sauce and 125 ml (½ cup) water and bring to the boil.

In a small bowl, combine the extra cornflour with 1 tablespoon cold water to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and stir until the sauce boils and thickens. Arrange in a dish with the fish pieces on top and serve immediately with rice or noodles.

KOY PA

Raw fish salad

SERVES: 4–6

Isn’t it fascinating that variations on this theme can be found in so many countries — from the Philippines to Polynesian Islands to Latin American countries. If the idea of eating raw fish makes you cringe, relax. The lemon juice in the marinade changes the texture of the fish. There you go — one step closer to sashimi. And what delights await you there!

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

125 ml (½ cup) lemon juice

6 tender green beans, thinly sliced

4 spring onions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced

1 tablespoon fish sauce

lettuce leaves, to serve

fresh mint leaves, to serve

fresh coriander leaves, to serve

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into very small pieces. Put the fish into a glass or earthenware bowl and pour the lemon juice over the top, tossing to coat. Set aside to marinate for 3 hours, or overnight in the refrigerator.

Combine the fish with all of the beans, spring onion, garlic, chilli and fish sauce. To serve, put some of the fish mixture in the centre of a lettuce leaf, add a sprig of mint or a few coriander leaves. Fold over the lettuce leaves and eat.

Note: If you find the taste of the lemon juice too sharp, add a splash of coconut milk to mellow the flavour.

KARI BONKONG TRASAK

Prawn and sweet gourd curry

SERVES: 6

1 sweet gourd, tender marrow or 2 green cucumbers

5 garlic cloves

1 small onion, roughly chopped

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

½ teaspoon chilli powder

½ teaspoon ground fennel

2 teaspoons ground coriander

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

500 g large raw prawns, peeled and deveined

500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk

1 stem lemongrass, bruised

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

1 tablespoon fish sauce

Peel the gourd, marrow or cucumbers, cut in halves lengthways, scoop out the seeds and cut into thick slices. Put the garlic, onion and ginger into a food processor and process to a purée. Mix in the chilli powder, fennel, coriander and turmeric.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the onion mixture over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the oil starts to show around the edges and the mixture starts to catch on the base of the pan. Add the prawns and stir-fry for 3 minutes, then add the coconut milk and bring to simmering point. Add the gourd, marrow or cucumber, lemongrass, lemon juice, sugar, if using, and fish sauce and stir gently, simmering for about 5 minutes, or until the gourd, marrow or cucumber is tender but not too soft. Serve hot with rice.

KAI LAO

Laotian chicken

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

1½ teaspoon extra

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tablespoon oil

2 onions, finely chopped

250 g minced (ground) pork

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 fresh red chilli, finely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaf

100 g (½ cup) long-grain rice

250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk

500 ml (2 cups) thin coconut milk

1 tablespoon fish sauce

Wash and dry the chicken well, then rub it inside and out with the salt and half of the crushed garlic.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan. Add the remaining garlic, onion and pork and season with the extra salt, the pepper and chilli. Cook the pork until browned, add the coriander, rice and thick coconut milk and bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 10 minutes, or until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Remove from the heat and leave until cool enough to handle.

Stuff the chicken with the pork mixture. Put the chicken into a large saucepan or stockpot with the thin coconut milk and fish sauce, cover, and simmer for 1 hour, or until the chicken is tender and cooked through. Serve with sticky rice.

MOAN CHUA NOEUNG PHSET KREAM

Stir-fried chicken with mushrooms

SERVES: 4–6

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 tablespoons oil

4 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain well, cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for a few seconds, then add the chicken and stir-fry until the colour changes. Add the mushroom, fish sauce, sugar and 250 ml (1 cup) water, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked. Garnish with coriander and serve with rice.

KHOR MRECH SAICH CHROUK

Cambodian caramelized pepper pork

SERVES: 4–6

The method of making a caramel and then cooking the meat in the same pot is also practised in Vietnam. Here is a variation on a traditional Cambodian recipe.

2 tablespoons sugar

3 garlic cloves, chopped

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon grated palm sugar

750 g pork belly, cut into cubes

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

150 g (1 cup) peeled and diced sweet potato or pumpkin

1 handful fresh coriander leaves and stems, chopped

Put the sugar and 1 tablespoon water into a large saucepan or stockpot and heat until it starts to bubble, stirring constantly until the mixture is a golden colour. Immediately add 250 ml (1 cup) water, the garlic, fish sauce, pepper and palm sugar, and stir while it comes to a boil. Add the pork, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the pork is tender. Add the ginger and sweet potato and continue to simmer for a further 15 minutes, or until the sweet potato is tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed. Stir in the coriander briefly, then serve hot with white rice.

Note: In Cambodia, this dish often includes hard-boiled quail or duck eggs. If using, mix the peeled eggs through the finished dish to heat through with the coriander.

SAICH CHROUK JONG KAK

Marinated pork skewers

SERVES: 6–8

This delicious marinated pork is best barbecued or grilled over hot coals, but even cooked under the griller (broiler), it is very tasty. Chicken thighs may be substituted.

2 stems lemongrass, white part only, finely chopped, or finely grated zest of 3 lemons

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh galangal

3 garlic cloves, crushed

3 red Asian shallots or 1 red onion, chopped

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

½ teaspoon salt

3 teaspoons sugar

60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil

2 tablespoons grated fresh coconut or desiccated coconut soaked in 1 tablespoon hot water

500 g pork loin or scotch fillet, cut into strips

60 ml (¼ cup) coconut milk

Soak 24 bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Put the lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, fish sauce, turmeric, chilli powder, salt, sugar and vegetable oil into a food processor and process to make a smooth paste. Alternatively, pound together using a mortar and pestle.

By hand, mix together the spice paste with the coconut and pork to thoroughly coat the meat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours or overnight.

Thread the pork strips onto the skewers and grill or barbecue over hot coals, turning often, until cooked through and browned all over. Serve hot with rice and a green mango salad.

NOEUNG SVAY

Green mango salad

SERVES: 4–6

It is hard to convey how green a mango needs to be for this salad, but I have never come across one that was too green — provided it is fully grown. On the other hand, I have bought mangoes that appeared green and felt firm (even in Phnom Penh markets) but which, on cutting, revealed flesh that was already sweet, orange and upon grating turned soft and mushy. Choose a fruit that you think is too hard and all will be well. In Cambodia, a special wavy-edged peeler you can find in the markets does an excellent job of grating green mango. If these are not available, grate on the coarse side of your cheese grater.

500 g lean chicken thigh fillets or pork loin

1 garlic clove, crushed with ½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons grated palm sugar

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 red Asian shallots, thinly sliced

juice of 1 lime, plus extra, to taste

25 g (½ cup) dried shrimp (optional)

1 green mango, peeled and coarsely grated

1 carrot, finely grated

20 g (1 cup) whole fresh basil leaves

190 g (1⅓ cups) roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Grill (broil) or barbecue the chicken or pork loin for 5 minutes on each side, or until just cooked through. Cover with foil and allow to rest. When cold, slice thinly.

In a large bowl, combine the garlic, palm sugar, fish sauce, shallots, lime juice and the dried shrimp. Add the chicken and toss gently to coat. Add the grated mango and carrot and toss well, adjusting the taste with extra lime juice if the mango is not tart enough. Garnish with the basil and roasted peanuts to serve.

KUAY NAMUAN

Bananas cooked in coconut milk

SERVES: 6

6–8 large ripe bananas

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

2 tablespoons sugar

Peel and cut each banana into 3 or 4 even-sized pieces. Put the coconut milk and sugar in a saucepan over low heat. Bring to a simmer and stir until thick and creamy. Add the bananas and continue to simmer for a further 5 minutes, or until the bananas are soft but not mushy. Serve warm as a dessert.

VIETNAM

While the food of Vietnam has been undeniably influenced by the cooking of China, it could not be mistaken for Chinese food, for authentic Vietnamese food has a very distinctive character. Fish sauce, nuoc mam, replaces soy sauce where saltiness is required, and is added both during cooking and as an accompaniment. Nuoc mam sauce (or nuoc cham), which is served as an accompaniment with practically everything, is based on nuoc mam with the addition of fresh chillies, garlic, sugar, lime or lemon and vinegar. The flavour is sharper and more pungent than any of the sauces you’d come across in Chinese cuisine.

Rice and noodles are the staple starches in the Vietnamese diet, but they have also cultivated a taste for French bread and I’m sure the Vietnamese bakeries in this country turn out the lightest, crunchiest baguettes outside of France. For a quick snack, they’re turned into tasty treats with beef, cooked Vietnamese-style, pâté or pressed pork sausage, chilli, fresh coriander and, of course, fish sauce. A delicious meal on the run.

SERVING AND EATING A VIETNAMESE MEAL

Together with rice, soup is a basic item in a Vietnamese meal. Sometimes the meal is only a soup — but with the addition of a number of substantial ingredients. Like the Burmese with their national soup dish, moh hin gha, the Vietnamese will stop at any time of day or night to partake of a bowl of pho (pronounced ‘far-uh’ with a rising inflection and a glottal stop at the end), a delicate beef soup that most Westerners would enjoy (see pho). The long simmering gives a strong, nourishing stock and the inclusion of star anise gives it a fragrant aroma. Serve pho together with cooked rice noodles, a wedge of lemon, raw vegetables and zesty fresh herbs, along with your choice of raw or slightly cooked thinly sliced beef, although I have also tasted versions with chicken, which are just as tasty.

Rice is cooked by the absorption method, without salt. It is meant to be firm and separate, the grains having just enough cling so they can be picked up easily with chopsticks. Pot-roasted rice, a simple variation, has a flavour all its own and is considered a treat. It is easy to prepare and this method of cooking rice results in a drier and fluffier consistency. A fluffy consistency is desirable in Vietnamese cooking.

Chicken, fish, poultry and beef are all used in Vietnam, but not mutton (or lamb). Beef too is something of a luxury, for cattle are working animals. Pork is the most common meat. Chickens and ducks are reared and considered good investments because they produce eggs and provide meat. Fish and shellfish are common and cheap, for they are found in great abundance, even in the flooded rice paddies. They are used in many ways, but the most important use is in the making of, for which a tiny fish called ‘rice fish’ is used. These fish are so small that they are likened to grains of rice.

Salads are popular in Vietnam. Simple combinations such as cooked chicken and shredded cabbage are given an exotic touch by the addition of chopped mint and fresh coriander leaves.

Vietnamese food includes a lot of fresh, uncooked vegetables and fruit, and food is more often cooked in water than oil — two reasons why a Vietnamese meal does not bring on a feeling of surfeit. Bowls and chopsticks are used to set the table and all the food is served at one time.

Desserts are not served at the end of a Vietnamese meal, but sweets and cakes are served as between-meal snacks, and offered to guests.

UTENSILS

To cook Vietnamese-style, a wok is fundamental. You could invest in a heavy stone mortar and pestle, but for most grinding a food processor prepares ingredients with much less time and effort. The one recipe I feel needs a mortar and pestle is . The liquid becomes too frothy when a blender is used, so depending on how enthusiastic you are and how authentic you want the food to be, choose your method of pulverising chillies and garlic accordingly. Wooden chopsticks are used for stirring and mixing. A large, heavy frying pan, a steamer and a large pot will equip you for any of these recipes.

YOUR VIETNAMESE SHELF

This is a list of spices, sauces, sambals and other flavourings which are often used in Vietnamese cooking and good to have on hand to make the recipes in this chapter.

bamboo shoots, tinned

black pepper, whole and freshly ground

cellophane (bean starch) noodles

cinnamon sticks

coconut milk and cream

cornflour

daun salam leaves (glossary)

dried shrimp paste

fish cakes, Chinese-style

fish sauce

lily buds, dried

lotus root, frozen

oyster sauce

peanut oil

peanuts, raw unsalted

rice paper wrappers

rice, medium-grain

rice, toasted ground (glossary)

rice wine or dry sherry

sesame oil

sesame sauce or paste

sesame seeds

shiitake mushrooms, dried

spring roll wrappers

star anise

turmeric, ground

TÔM VÓ VIÊN CHIÊN

Fried prawn cakes

SERVES: 4–6 AS A MEAL WITH RICE AND SOUP

1 spring onion, finely chopped

1 pinch of freshly ground black pepper

oil, for deep-frying, to serve

Prawn paste

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

1 egg white

60 g (¼ cup) finely chopped pork fat

1 tablespoon oil

1 tablespoon fish sauce

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To make the prawn paste, put the prawns through a mincer using a fine blade (you will need to do this twice), or chop very finely in a food processor. Add all of the remaining ingredients and stir well to combine.

Mix the prawn paste with the spring onion and pepper and stir to combine, then take a little of the mixture at a time and use lightly oiled hands to form into small patties.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the shrimp cakes, in batches, for about 3 minutes each, or until golden and crisp. Drain on paper towel and serve hot with rice, the soup and .

These cakes are also suitable for serving as appetisers with lettuce leaves and chopped fresh coriander or mint. Wrap in lettuce, adding a sprinkling of herbs and dip in . Eat immediately. The mixture may also be barbecued over coals or grilled on sticks of sugar cane.

CHA GIÒ

Fried pork and crab rolls

MAKES: ABOUT 24

If Vietnamese rice papers (banh trang) are difficult to find, use Chinese spring roll wrappers which are sold frozen in supermarkets and in many Asian grocery stores.

25 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

1 small onion, finely chopped

6 spring onions, finely chopped

250 g minced (ground) pork

175 g (1 cup) crab meat, flaked

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fish sauce

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

12 rice paper wrappers

oil, for deep-frying

lettuce leaves, to serve

fresh mint or coriander leaves, to serve

strips of cucumber, to serve

, to serve

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain. Cut into 2.5 cm lengths. Put into a bowl with the onion, spring onion and pork. Flake the crab meat, discarding any bony tissue, then add to the bowl with the salt, fish sauce and pepper. Mix well to combine.

Moisten each rice paper by dipping briefly in warm water, then cut in half. Put 2 teaspoons of filling on one end. Roll up, turning in the sides so that the filling is completely enclosed. Moisten the edge with a little water or egg white to secure.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the pork and crab rolls, in batches, until they are crisp and golden. Do not have the oil too hot or the filling will not cook through. Drain on paper towel.

To serve, wrap each roll in a lettuce leaf including a small sprig of mint or coriander and a strip of cucumber. Dip in and eat right away.

Note: Briefly dip the rice paper wrappers in water to soften. You need them to be just pliable, not soggy, before filling and wrapping.

CÒM CHIÊN

Pot-roasted rice

SERVES: 4

With short- or medium-grain rice, the amount of water in this recipe gives a dry, fluffy result, with firm grains. If using longgrain rice, add 500 ml (2 cups) hot water for the same result, because the long-grain variety has a greater absorbency.

440 g (2 cups) medium-grain rice

2 tablespoons peanut oil or lard

, to serve

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the rice, stirring gently with a metal spoon, for 10–15 minutes, or until the rice becomes opaque and turns golden. Add 435 ml (1¾ cups) hot water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 20 minutes, or until fluffy. Serve with the and other dishes.

BÁNH MI CHIÊN TÔM

Prawn toast

MAKES: 24 PIECES

12 slices two-day-old bread

1 quantity prawn paste

oil, for deep-frying

lettuce leaves

, to serve

fresh coriander or mint leaves, to serve

cucumber slices, to serve

Trim the crusts off the bread and cut each slice into halves lengthways. Spread the prawn paste over each slice.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the bread, paste side down, in batches, until crisp and golden. Drain on paper towel. Serve hot, with the lettuce leaves for wrapping, for dipping and coriander or mint leaves and cucumber slices as accompaniments.

BANH XEO

Crisp rice flour pancakes

MAKES: 6

Serve these pancakes either whole or in pieces, wrapped in lettuce leaves and dipped in sauce.

125 g (¾ cups) rice flour

35 g (¼ cup) plain flour

2 tablespoons ground rice

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon salt

100 ml coconut cream

2 eggs

Filling

125 ml (½ cup) oil

3 garlic cloves

500 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and halved lengthways

4 spring onions, thinly sliced

150 g cooked pork loin, thinly sliced

115 g (1 cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

Combine the flours, ground rice, turmeric and salt in a bowl. Add the coconut cream, eggs and 200 ml water and whisk until just combined. Leave to stand for 30 minutes and then test the consistency which should be similar to pouring cream. If it is too thick, add extra water to achieve the desired consistency.

To make the filling, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a small frying pan over high heat. Add the garlic and prawns and stir-fry until the prawns start to turn pink. Transfer to a plate, then arrange the remaining ingredients within reach of where you are going to cook the pancakes.

When you are ready to serve, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add ½ cup of pancake batter and swirl quickly to cover the base of the pan. Over one half, quickly scatter the prepared filling ingredients starting with the spring onions, then the prawns, pork and bean sprouts and cook until the base starts to crisp and brown. Fold the empty half over and slide onto a serving plate. Repeat with the remaining oil and pancake batter and serve immediately.

GOI CUON

Fresh spring rolls

MAKES: 8 ROLLS

The secret of good rice paper rolls is not to soak the papers too long, or to fill them too much as they will be limp and likely to burst open. Within a minute of soaking, the rice paper wrappers become pliable enough to roll.

100 g rice vermicelli

20 g (1 cup) mixed fresh herbs, such as coriander, Thai basil and mint leaves

150 g pork loin

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

8 cooked large prawns, peeled, deveined and halved lengthways

8 soft lettuce leaves

8 rice paper wrappers

1 handful garlic chives

Soak the rice vermicelli in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain well and cut into short lengths. Combine with the mixed herbs and refrigerate until needed.

Put the pork loin into a small frying pan with the fish sauce, sugar and 2 tablespoons water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 minutes. Turn the pork over and simmer for a further 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow to cool in the pan. Remove from the cooking liquid and cut into thin slices.

To assemble, dip the rice paper wrappers briefly in water, then transfer to a clean tea towel, shiny side down. Smooth over the wrappers with clean wet hands, then put one prawn on the bottom third of the wrapper, so that the colourful side is facing down. Over the top, place a lettuce leaf, a couple of slices of pork and 2 tablespoons of the herbed rice vermicelli. Pick up the bottom edge of the paper and enclose the filling, then tuck in the sides. At this stage place two garlic chives so that they stick out the side and continue rolling. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling. Serve with , if desired.

Note: A vegetarian version of this can be made with thinly sliced red capsicum (pepper), blanched and sliced green beans and thinly sliced spring onion added to the vermicelli and herbs. Chopped roasted peanuts can be added if desired. Serve with chilli sauce.

GAI NUONG LA CHANH

Chicken skewers with lime leaves

MAKES: ABOUT 12 SKEWERS

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 stem lemongrass, white part only, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion

1 small red chilli, seeded and finely chopped

2 teaspoons grated palm sugar or soft brown sugar

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon fish sauce

4 makrut (kaffir lime) leaves, plus 16 extra

500 g chicken thigh fillets, diced into 5 cm pieces

200 g rice vermicelli, to serve

Soak 12 bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Put the vegetable oil, lemongrass, garlic, spring onion, chilli, palm sugar, pepper, fish sauce and makrut leaves in a food processor and process well to combine. Pour over the chicken and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight to marinate.

Soak the rice vermicelli in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain well and keep warm.

Thread 4 pieces of chicken onto each skewer, alternating with the extra lime leaves. Cook under a preheated griller (broiler), or chargrill pan over high heat, turning a few times, until golden and cooked through. Serve with the rice vermicelli.

CANH GÀ BI ÐAO

Chicken and winter melon soup

SERVES: 6

500 g chicken wings

1 kg winter melon (winter gourd) or cucumber

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fish sauce

Cut the chicken wings in half. Peel the melon, discard the skin, seeds and membrane and cut into bite-sized pieces.

Put the chicken into a large saucepan with the spring onion, salt and 1.25 litres (5 cups) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1 hour, or until the liquid has reduced and the broth is well-flavoured. Add the winter melon, bring to the boil for 1 minute only, then add the fish sauce and season with freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Serve immediately, with rice if desired.

Note: If using cucumber, make sure they are first peeled, sliced and seeded before adding to the soup.

CANH ÐÂU H

Soup with tofu

SERVES: 2

500 ml (2 cups) strong chicken stock

2 squares fresh tofu

125 g (½ cup) chopped cooked chicken

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves

Put the stock in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the tofu and chicken, reduce the heat to low and simmer until heated through. Serve the soup with the coriander sprinkled over the top.

CANH CU SEN

Pork and lotus root soup

SERVES: 4

500 g frozen lotus root

500 g lean pork ribs, cut into short lengths

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon salt

1–2 tablespoons fish sauce

Peel the lotus root and cut into thin slices. Put it into a large saucepan with the pork and spring onion, salt and 1.5 litres (6 cups) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1½ hours, or until the pork is well cooked and the liquid has reduced to about 1 litre (4 cups). Add the fish sauce, to taste and serve hot with white rice.

CANH BUN TAU

Fish and cellophane noodle soup

SERVES: 6–8

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

60 ml (¼ cup) fish sauce

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

60 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

1½ tablespoons peanut oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 daun salam leaves

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon thinly sliced spring onions

Coarsely chop the fish and place in a bowl with the ginger, 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce and half of the salt and pepper. Set aside.

Soak the noodles in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain well.

Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic and daun salam leaves and stir-fry until the onion is soft. Add the turmeric and dried shrimp paste and stir-fry for a further 1 minute, using a spoon to crush the paste against the side of the pan. Add the lemon zest, 1.5 litres (6 cups) water and the noodles and remaining fish sauce. Season with the remaining salt and pepper. Boil for 5 minutes, then add the fish, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through. Removeove from the heat, sprinkle with the spring onion and serve hot.

CANH TÔM VÒ VIÊN

Prawn drop soup

SERVES: 4

1 litre (4 cups) fish or chicken stock

1 tablespoon fish sauce

½ quantity prawn paste

150 g (2 cups) finely shredded Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

Put the stock into a large saucepan with the fish sauce and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and continue to simmer. Take ½ teaspoon of the prawn paste at a time and drop it into the simmering stock — when cooked it will turn opaque and rise to the top. Repeat until all of the stock is used, then add the cabbage, bring back to the boil, cover and cook for 1 minute, or until the cabbage is tender. Sprinkle the spring onion on top and remove from the heat immediately. Cover and leave to rest for 1 minute, then serve hot.

PHÓ

Beef soup with salad

SERVES: 6–8

You may well think a soup and a salad are an odd combination when served together, but don’t miss out on this national dish by being too cautious. Rather like the moh hin gha of Burma, the strong stock is combined with other ingredients to make a meal in a bowl. Pho can be served at the table with the hot stock still simmering at the table, as guests add other components to their bowls to suit their own tastes.

Beef stock

3 kg beef rib bones

500 g stewing steak

2 onions, sliced

1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh ginger

1 cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

3 star anise

500 g fresh rice noodles or 250 g dried rice noodles

500 g (4⅓ cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

4 firm ripe tomatoes, halved lengthways and thinly sliced

2 white onions, thinly sliced

500 g rump steak, thinly sliced

fish sauce

lemon wedges

fresh red or green chillies, seeded and thinly sliced

chopped fresh coriander leaves

1 large handful fresh mint leaves

1 large handful Thai basil leaves

Put the bones and steak into a large saucepan with enough water to cover. Add the onion, ginger, cinnamon stick, peppercorns and star anise. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for at least 6 hours. Skim off any scum that rises to the surface during cooking. Season with salt, to taste.

If using fresh rice noodles, slice them into 7 cm lengths and pour boiling water over them, then drain well. If using dried rice noodles, cook them in a saucepan of boiling water until tender, then drain well.

Arrange the bean sprouts, spring onion, tomato, onion and steak on a serving plate.

To serve, put some of the cooked noodles and some bean sprouts in large individual serving bowls. Put a few slices of beef, tomato and onion in a large ladle, immerse in the boiling stock until the beef begins to lose its redness — it should be pale pink. Pour the contents of the ladle over the noodles and bean sprouts. Guests add fish sauce, a squeeze of lemon juice, chillies and fresh herbs, to taste.

MUC DÔN THIT

Squid stuffed with pork

SERVES: 6–8

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

10 dried lily buds (glossary)

250 g minced (ground) pork

25 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

1 garlic clove, crushed

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon fish sauce

500 g squid

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil, for frying

Soak the mushrooms and lily buds in separate bowls with hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. Discard any tough portions of the flowers and chop finely.

Soak the cellophane noodles in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain well.

Put the mushroom, lily bud, pork and ½ cup of the noodles in a bowl and toss to combine. Add the garlic, spring onion, salt, pepper and fish sauce, to taste, using your hands to thoroughly combine.

Clean each squid, removing the ink sac, discarding the head and reserving the tentacles. Rinse the tubes under cold running water to remove the skin. Drain well. Chop the tentacles finely and mix with the pork mixture.

Stuff the pork mixture into each squid tube, packing it in firmly, and securing the end with a short toothpick to seal.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Cook the squid for 5 minutes. Prick the squid with a fine skewer, turn and continue to cook for a further 10 minutes, or until cooked through — you may need to cook for a little longer if the squid are large.

To serve, cut each stuffed squid into thin slices and arrange on a bed of lettuce leaves.

TRÚNG CHIÊN VOI CUA

Crab omelette

SERVES: 3–4

4 eggs, lightly beaten

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

125 g crab meat

oil, for frying

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and sliced (optional)

1 teaspoon fish sauce

, to serve

Season the egg with the salt and pepper. Flake the crab meat, discarding any bony tissue.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the spring onion and chilli and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the crab meat and continue to stir-fry for a further 1–2 minutes. Add the fish sauce and stir through, then remove to a small plate and allow to cool.

Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in the frying pan, pour in the egg and cook, drawing the egg mixture in from the side of the pan, until set on the bottom and creamy on top. Spoon the crab mixture into the centre of the omelette and fold the omelette in half, then cook until heated through. Serve with the .

CÁ HÂP

Steamed fish

SERVES: 6

1 kg whole fish or 750 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

90 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

8 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 carrot, cut into thin matchsticks

2 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 large garlic clove, crushed

125 g (½ cup) thinly sliced cooked pork

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fish sauce

125 ml (½ cup) coconut milk

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

2 tablespoons thinly sliced spring onion

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. If using whole fish, rub salt over the body, then rinse well and dry with paper towel. Trim the fins and tail and make diagonal slashes in the flesh to allow for the seasonings to penetrate. Place in a large heatproof dish.

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain well and cut into short lengths.

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well, cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Combine the noodles, mushroom, carrot, ginger, garlic, pork, soy sauce, salt, pepper and fish sauce in a bowl. Spread this over the fish, then steam the fish for 30 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through. If using fish fillets, these should only take 15–20 minutes.

Pour the coconut milk over the top and garnish with the coriander and spring onion. Serve with white rice.

ĆA VÒ VIÊN XÀO CAI BE TRÁNG

Fish cakes with Chinese cabbage

SERVES: 4

1 tablespoon oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ head Chinese cabbage (wong bok), cut into 2.5 cm slices

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons oyster sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) stock or water

3 Chinese-style fish cakes, thinly sliced (glossary)

½ teaspoon cornflour

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for a few seconds, then add the cabbage and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the soy sauce, salt and oyster sauce and stir well to combine. Add the stock and bring to the boil, then add the sliced fish cake and stir until heated through.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour with just enough water to make a smooth paste.

Push the ingredients to the side of the wok, add the cornflour mixture to the centre of the wok and stir constantly until it boils and thickens. Toss all of the ingredients together and serve at once with white rice.

GÀ HÂP CÀ

Steamed chicken with tomatoes

SERVES: 4

750 g chicken thigh and breast fillets

3 ripe tomatoes, cut into thin wedges

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons fish sauce

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon sugar

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 teaspoons sesame oil

, to serve

Remove the skin and bones from the chicken and cut the flesh into bite-sized pieces.

Put the chicken into a heatproof bowl or other deep dish with all of the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly.

Fill a large saucepan or deep frying pan with water and bring to the boil. Place the bowl in the pan — the water should come about one-third of the way up the bowl. Cover and steam for about 25–35 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Check periodically to ensure that the water has not boiled away, and add more boiling water if it is getting low. Serve with white rice and .

NÂM ÐÔNG CÔ TIÊM GÀ

Steamed chicken with mushrooms

SERVES: 4

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 kg whole chicken

1 tablespoon finely shredded fresh ginger

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 teaspoons fish sauce

1 small garlic clove, crushed

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sesame oil

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain well. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps.

Divide the chicken into two parts. (Depending on what you want to do with the remaining flesh, cut the bird into halves lengthways, or reserve the breast and wings for another dish.) Remove the skin and bones from the chicken and cut the flesh into bite-sized pieces.

Put the chicken into a heatproof bowl or other deep dish with the mushroom and remaining ingredients. Mix well.

Fill a large saucepan or deep frying pan with water and bring to the boil. Place the bowl in the pan — the water should come about one-third of the way up the bowl. Cover and steam for about 25–30 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Check periodically to ensure that the water has not boiled away, and add more boiling water if it is getting low. Serve with rice, noodles or cellophane (bean starch) noodles.

GÀ XÀO BÚN TÀU

Chicken with cellophane noodles

SERVES: 4–6

750 g chicken thigh and breast fillets

125 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

1 tablespoon oil

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 firm ripe tomatoes

2 white onions

vinegar, to taste

sugar, to taste

Remove the skin from the chicken and cut the flesh into bite-sized pieces.

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain well and cut the noodles into bite-sized lengths.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan. Add the spring onion and chicken and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes. Add the fish sauce, soy sauce, pepper and 125 ml (½ cup) water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 3 minutes. Add the noodles, bring back to the boil, stirring constantly, and boil for a further 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and serve hot, accompanied by a salad of sliced tomato and sliced white onions, dressed with a dash of white vinegar, a sprinkling of sugar, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.

GÀ XÀO XA ÓT

Chicken with lemongrass

SERVES: 4–6

1 kg whole chicken

3–4 stems lemongrass, white part only, thinly sliced

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra to taste

2 tablespoons oil

1–2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped

70 g (½ cup) roasted peanuts, finely chopped

2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons fish sauce

Joint the chicken in the Chinese-style and cut into serving pieces. Gently bruise the lemongrass using a mortar and pestle.

Place the lemongrass in a bowl with the spring onion, salt, pepper and chicken and toss well to combine. Set aside for 30 minutes.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the chicken mixture and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add the chilli and stir-fry for a further 10 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Add the peanuts, season with the sugar and extra pepper and stir well. Add the fish sauce and toss to distribute evenly, then serve with rice or noodles.

THIT HEO KHO TIÊU

Dry-cooked pork

SERVES: 6–8

750 g lean pork chops (cutlets)

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Remove the skin and bones from the pork chops, and cut the meat into thin strips. Put the meat into a small, deep saucepan — avoid using a large pan as the liquid will evaporate too quickly.

Add all of the remaining ingredients and 2 tablespoons water and bring to the boil. Cook for 2 minutes over high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the liquid is completely absorbed and the pork is cooked through. Stir towards end of cooking so that the meat does not burn. Serve with rice and salad.

CHA ÐÙM

Pork loaf

SERVES: 4–6

8–10 dried shiitake mushrooms

750 g minced (ground) pork

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

4 eggs, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon fish sauce

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

, to serve

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain well, then cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. Place in a bowl with the remaining ingredients and mix well to combine. Grease a loaf (bar) tin and pack the mixture firmly into it, cover with a double layer of baking paper or foil and steam over high heat for 1 hour or longer, or until well cooked. Allow to cool slightly in the tin until firm, then turn out, slice and serve with a lettuce salad and .

THIT HEO KHO KHÔ

Pork cooked with sugar

SERVES: 6–8

1–1.25 kg pork belly or loin

2 tablespoons oil

3 spring onions, finely chopped

2 teaspoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

a pinch of freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

2 tablespoons fish sauce

Cut the pork into large cubes — do not discard all of the fat as this adds flavour.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the spring onion and cook until golden. Add the pork and stir-fry until the pork starts to change colour, then add the sugar, salt and pepper, and continue stirring until the meat is brown all over.

Add 1 litre (4 cups) water to the pan and simmer for 1 hour. Add the fish sauce and continue to simmer until the pork is almost dry, taking care to stir frequently as the liquid reduces or the pork may burn. Serve with white rice.

NEM NUÓNG

Skewered pork, barbecued

SERVES: 6

The pork for this recipe is pounded, not minced. If the thought exhausts you, take the easy way out, but the end result will not be the same.

500 g pork fillet

2 garlic cloves

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon sugar

3 teaspoons rice wine or dry sherry

2 tablespoons melted pork fat or lard

1 tablespoon toasted ground rice (glossary)

3 teaspoons fish sauce

500 g fresh rice noodles or 125 g dried rice noodles

1 head lettuce, rinsed and separated into leaves

sprigs of fresh coriander or mint, to serve

sauce

Soak bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Cut the pork fillet into very thin slices, then cut into small dice. Crush the garlic finely with the salt and sugar, then mix with the wine. Pour over the pork, mix well and set aside for at least 30 minutes to marinate.

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the meat, working with small portions at a time, until it has a paste-like consistency. As each lot is done, remove it to a large bowl. Add the melted pork fat, ground rice and fish sauce and use your hands to knead together and combine. Form small sausage shapes and mould them onto bamboo skewers, squeezing them on very firmly. Barbecue over glowing coals or under a preheated griller (broiler), at a good distance from the heat source, turning often until cooked through.

Cook the noodles in hot water for 10 minutes until tender, then drain well. Serve the skewers with the noodles, lettuce leaves, coriander and sauce and let each person assemble their own snack. A leaf of lettuce is topped with a few rice noodles, some pork, a sprig of fresh coriander, a spoonful of sauce, then rolled up to form a neat roll. This takes some practice. If preferred, the sauce may be served as a dipping sauce.

ÐÙI HEO KHO NÔI ÐÂT

Pot-roasted pork

This is not eaten as a one-sitting meal, but prepared and then used in a number of dishes requiring cooked pork, just as barbecued pork fillet is used in Chinese cooking.

1.5–2 kg leg of pork

5 garlic cloves

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon oil

Slice four of the garlic cloves. Make small deep incisions all over the pork with the tip of a small knife and insert slices of garlic in each cut.

Crush the remaining garlic with the salt, then combine with the pepper and fish sauce and rub all over the pork.

Heat the oil in a large, deep casserole or heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Cook the pork briefly on all sides until brown all over. Add 250 ml (1 cup) water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 1½ hours, or until the pork is cooked through. Turn the pork three or four times during cooking so that it cooks evenly.

Allow to cool, then cut into slices and serve with salad, or use in other dishes requiring pork.

BÒ XÀO DÂU MÈ

Beef with sesame sauce

SERVES: 3–4

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

1 tablespoon soy sauce

250 g round steak, thinly sliced

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

125 ml (½ cup) beef stock

3 teaspoons cornflour

2 teaspoons sesame paste (glossary)

1–2 teaspoons Chinese chilli sauce

In a bowl, mix together the salt, bicarbonate of soda, soy sauce and 2 tablespoons hot water. Add the beef and turn to coat until all of the liquid has been absorbed, then set aside to marinate for 2 hours, or refrigerate overnight. (If rump or other tender steak is used, this step may be omitted.)

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the garlic and beef and stir-fry for about 2 minutes, or until the meat has changed colour. Add the stock and bring to the boil.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok, stirring until the sauce boils and thickens. Turn off the heat, stir in the sesame paste and chilli sauce and serve immediately with white rice.

Note: You can add vegetables to this dish if you like — try adding some sliced bamboo shoots or Chinese cabbage (wong bok) with bean sprouts.

BÒ XÀO MĂNG

Beef with bamboo shoots

SERVES: 3–4

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

375 g rump or fillet steak, thinly sliced into 5 cm strips

1 large tin bamboo shoots, drained and sliced

6 spring onions, sliced

1 tablespoon fish sauce

½ teaspoon salt

1 garlic clove, crushed

4 tablespoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

Heat 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil in a wok or large heavybased frying pan over medium heat. Add the beef and stir-fry for 1 minute. Remove from the wok while the meat is still pink.

Heat the remaining oil in the same wok. Add the bamboo shoots and spring onion and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the fish sauce and salt and continue to stir-fry for a further 5 minutes. Add the garlic and stir-fry for 1 minute, then return the beef to the wok and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the sesame seeds, toss to combine, and serve hot with rice.

TRÚNG HÂP

Steamed egg with mushrooms

SERVES: 3–4

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

25 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

125 g crab meat or prawn meat

5 eggs

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

½ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

125 g (½ cup) finely chopped cooked pork

, to serve

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain well. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps.

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain well. Measure ½ cup of the noodles and set aside. Flake the crab meat and discard any bony bits.

Beat the eggs until the yolks and whites are well mixed but not frothy. Stir in the spring onion, coriander, salt and pepper and then the mushroom, noodles, crab meat and pork. Pour the mixture into a baking dish.

Fill a large saucepan or deep frying pan with water and bring to the boil. Place the baking dish in the pan — the water should come about one-third of the way up the bowl. Cover and steam for about 25–35 minutes, or until the egg is cooked through. Check periodically to ensure that the water has not boiled away, and add more boiling water if it is getting low. Serve with rice and .

COM CHAY

Stir-fried mixed vegetables

SERVES: 4

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 sticks celery, thinly sliced

3 spring onions, sliced

¼ head cabbage or Chinese cabbage (wong bok), chopped

3–4 mustard cabbage leaves, chopped

1 small head lettuce, chopped

1½ tablespoons light soy sauce

1 teaspoon cornflour

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain well, then cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. Place in a small saucepan with 125 ml (½ cup) water, the dark soy sauce, sesame oil and sugar and simmer until almost all of the liquid has been absorbed.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and ginger and heat for a few seconds only. Add the celery and spring onion and stir-fry over high heat for 2 minutes, then add the cabbages and lettuce and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the light soy sauce and mushroom mixture with 60 ml (¼ cup) water and stir to combine.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour with 1 tablespoon water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and stir until the sauce boils and thickens. Serve at once with rice.

NUOC CHÂM

Garlic, chilli and fish sauce

No Vietnamese meal is considered complete without this sauce, which is used as freely as salt and pepper in the West. It is also known as sauce.

2 fresh red chillies

2 garlic cloves, peeled

1 tablespoon sugar

½ lemon or 1 lime

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

80 ml (⅓ cup) fish sauce

If you want a milder sauce, remove the seeds from the chillies. Otherwise, simply cut into pieces, and pound using a mortar and pestle. Add the garlic and sugar and continue to pound to a pulp. Peel the lemon, removing all the white pith, then cut into thin slices, discarding any seeds. Add a small piece of lemon at a time to the chilli and pound to a pulp. Stir in the vinegar, fish sauce and 2 tablespoons water. Serve the sauce in a small bowl and use sparingly.

NUOC LÈO

Glutinous rice and soy bean sauce

MAKES: 2 CUPS

110 g (½ cup) glutinous rice

4–5 garlic cloves

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon oil

250 g minced (ground) pork

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

60 ml (¼ cup) Chinese ground bean sauce

500 ml (2 cups) chicken or pork stock

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 teaspoons Chinese chilli sauce

140 g (1 cup) roasted peanuts, crushed

Put the rice and 1 litre (4 cups) water into a large heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes, then uncover and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until all of the water has been absorbed.

Crush the garlic with 1 teaspoon of the sugar. Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and cook until it starts to change colour. Add the pork and stir-fry over medium heat until it changes colour, then add the pepper and bean sauce and stir well to combine. Add the stock, remaining sugar and fish sauce, stir well and simmer for a further 1–2 minutes. Add the cooked rice and continue simmering for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from the heat, then stir in the chilli sauce and ground peanuts. Serve warm or at room temperature.

BÁNH FLAN

Vietnamese crème caramel

MAKES: 6

A successful fusion of cuisines and techniques, this easy steamed crème caramel uses less fat (no cream, just whole milk) and whole eggs, giving it a smoother, silkier texture that is firmer than the traditional French dessert. The ingenious method of steaming came about since ovens are rare in Vietnamese kitchens.

Caramel

110 g (½ cup) sugar

Custard

500 ml (2 cups) milk

4 eggs

110 g (½ cup) sugar

1 teaspoon natural vanilla extract

To make the caramel, put the sugar and 60 ml (¼ cup) water into a saucepan over medium heat and sit over the heat, without stirring, until golden. Divide this mixture evenly between six 125 ml (½ cup) capacity ramekins or similar moulds, swirling to coat the base. (Heating the caramel briefly in a microwave will make it fluid again if it has set prematurely.)

Put the milk into a separate saucepan and bring just to simmering point. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar until just combined, then gradually add the hot milk, stirring constantly. Stir in the vanilla to combine, then remove from the heat and strain the milk mixture into each mould over the caramel until filled almost to the top.

Fill a large saucepan or deep frying pan with water and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, place the ramekins on a rack over the simmering water, cover, and cook for 20 minutes, or until firm. If the heat is too high, the custard will bubble and lose its silky smoothness.

Remove from the heat, chill for a few hours, then turn out and serve. The caramel melts as the dessert chills, so for more caramel syrup, make them a day ahead.

CHUÔI NUONG

Banana cake with cashews

MAKES: 2 X 20 CM ROUND CAKES

3 eggs

220 g (1 cup) sugar

185 ml (¾ cup) pouring cream or coconut cream

225 g (1½ cups) plain flour

2 kg very ripe bananas

155 g (1 cup) cashews, coarsely chopped

65 g (1 cup) grated fresh coconut

Preheat the oven to 180°C (Gas 4). Lightly grease two 20 cm round cake tins and dust lightly with flour, shaking out any excess.

Beat the eggs and sugar together in the bowl of an electric mixer on low speed until thick and pale. Add the cream and beat for a few seconds until just combined. Sift in the flour and use a wooden spoon to fold together

Peel the bananas and smash with the flat side of a chopper, but do not mash. Add to the batter with the nuts and coconut and stir only until just combined.

Pour into the prepared tins and bake in the oven for 1 hour, or until the top is golden brown — the cake will be quite solid, much like a pudding. Serve warm or cold.

THE PHILIPPINES

A mixture of Malay, Chinese and Spanish, with just a touch of American influence, is the combination that makes the food of the Philippines and the people themselves the exotic blend of East and West that they are.

Originally the Philippine islands were inhabited by Negritos, a negroid race in the Malayo-Polynesian region. Then came traders from Malaya, Indonesia and China who settled and intermarried. In the sixteenth century came the Spanish conquerors, who stayed for four hundred years. The Spanish made a lasting impact on the way of life in the Philippines. They brought Catholicism, which was wholeheartedly embraced by the Filipinos, making the Philippines the only Christian country in Asia. They also introduced many of their foods and special festive dishes, so that now the cuisine of the Philippines is as much influenced by Spanish tastes as it is by the Malay and Chinese way of cooking.

In the Philippines, as in the rest of Asia, rice is the staple food of the people. Rice and fish comprise the native breakfast, but more popular is a breakfast of spicy native sausages, called longaniza, made of pork and flavoured with pepper, garlic and other ingredients and briefly cured. These are fried and kept warm while leftover cooked rice is fried in the pork fat that remains. Fried eggs are also popular at breakfast. Sometimes Continental types of bread, such as pan de sal, are served in place of rice. Hot chocolate and ensaimadas is a favourite mid-morning snack. Ensaimadas are made from a dough like that used for brioche, rich with butter, sugar and eggs; the unusual feature is that they have a filling and sometimes a topping of finely grated mature cheese, but the sweet, savoury combination is delicious (see recipe). Lunch and dinner are both big meals in the Philippines, and may include four or five courses — soup, fish, meat, fresh fruit and finally a rich, sweet dessert. This is eating Spanish-style. If the meal is served Filipino-style, then everything is put on the table at once.

Between lunch and dinner there is yet another meal, merienda, which can best be compared to an English high tea. It consists not only of sandwiches and cakes, but also lumpia (a type of spring roll), a dish of pancit (fried noodles with vegetables, shrimp, pork, chicken or ham), and at least a couple of local sweets made from grated coconut, coconut milk, glutinous rice, sweet potato or tropical fruits.

In spite of the Spanish influence, many truly native dishes are very popular. Adobo is the most popular and best known dish of the Philippines. It is a method of cooking, not one precise and unalterable recipe, and thus you may find chicken adobo, pork adobo, or a combination of both. It is typical of the flavours Filipinos find pleasing — vinegar, garlic and pepper. Sometimes coconut milk is one of the ingredients, sometimes not. It is this combination of flavours that helps tenderise the meat and give it flavour — the meat is pre-soaked in the vinegar mixture for an hour or more before cooking.

If annatto seeds, which are used as a colouring agent in many Filipino dishes, are not available, a similar effect can be achieved by using ¼ teaspoon of paprika and ⅛ teaspoon of ground turmeric to replace 1 teaspoon annatto seeds. The resulting colour should be bright orange. Be careful not to cook the paprika and turmeric mixture on its own or it may burn — add it instead with the onion and garlic. Similarly, palm vinegar, which is typically used for cooking in the Philippines, is much milder than wine vinegar, but this can be used if diluted with water.

SERVING AND EATING A FILIPINO MEAL

Tables often have a raised circular turntable on which the dishes of food are placed to make it easy to present the food to everyone sitting at the table without having to pass dishes to and fro. Flat dinner plates, spoons, knives and forks are used, with bowls for soup. The old custom of eating with the fingers is mainly retained in villages. Wine is seldom served with a meal — water being the popular drink, as in most Asian countries. However, the food of the Philippines is more suited to being served with wine than are the hot spicy foods of neighbouring countries. Coffee is the preferred hot beverage among Filipinos.

UTENSILS

The traditional way of cooking rice in the Philippines is to wash it several times, then cook it in earthernware pots lined with banana leaves to prevent it from sticking to the base of the pot. In the Philippines the rounded pan, shaped like a wok, is called a carajay (pronounced ‘cara-hai’) and most likely was introduced by the Chinese. It is useful for stir-fried noodle dishes, but these days it is no problem to use the modern equipment of a Western kitchen.

YOUR FILIPINO SHELF

annatto seeds (glossary)

bay leaves

black pepper, whole and freshly ground

breadcrumbs, fresh and dried

cellophane (bean starch) noodles

chickpeas, dried

coconut, desiccated

coconut milk and cream

cornflour

fish sauce

ground rice

lard

misu (roughly mashed salted soy beans)

olive oil

paprika

saffron strands

shiitake mushrooms, dried

shrimp sauce

Spanish saffron

soy sauce, light and dark

spring roll wrappers

tamarind pulp

turmeric, ground

vinegar

LUMPIA

MAKES: ABOUT 24

Lumpia, a popular snack, may be ‘fresh’ or fried. Fresh lumpia means that the filling is enclosed in a lettuce leaf and egg roll wrapper and eaten without additional cooking, while fried lumpia is similar to a spring roll. There are many versions of lumpia, each featuring a main ingredient — for example, lumpia labong (with bamboo shoots), lumpia with peanuts, and the most sought after, lumpia with ubod. Ubod is the heart of the coconut palm and has justly earned its reputation for being food for millionaires, because a whole tree has to be sacrificed to obtain the tender, nutty, creamy white heart-of-palm. Here is a basic recipe for lumpia. To this you may add chopped bamboo shoots or crushed roasted peanuts for variation. If you yearn to taste the heart-of-palm filling, cut tinned hearts of palm into matchstick strips and mix only with an equal quantity of diced cooked prawns or lobster, then season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Lumpia

2 tablespoons peanut oil

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 cooked chicken breast, diced

250 g (2 cups) diced cooked pork

250 g (2 cups) diced cooked prawn meat

125 g (1 cup) sliced green beans

115 g (1 cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

250 g (3⅓ cups) shredded cabbage

140 g (1 cup) finely diced celery

60 g (½ cup) thinly sliced spring onions

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

cos (romaine) lettuce leaves, to serve

1 quantity egg roll wrappers, or 20 spring roll wrappers

oil, for deep-frying

Dipping sauce

75 g (⅓ cup) sugar

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

250 ml (1 cup) clear chicken stock or water

2 tablespoons cornflour

1 garlic clove, crushed

¼ teaspoon salt

To make the lumpia filling, heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, then add the chicken, pork and prawn meat and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the beans, stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add the bean sprouts, cabbage, celery and spring onion and toss to combine. Continue cooking, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender but still crunchy. Add the salt, pepper and soy sauce and mix well to combine. Remove from the heat and drain off any excess moisture.

To make the dipping sauce, combine the sugar, soy sauce and stock in a saucepan and bring to the boil. In a separate bowl, combine the cornflour and 60 ml (¼ cup) cold water to make a smooth paste, then add to the pan and stir until the sauce thickens. Continue to simmer for 1 minute, stirring constantly, then stir in the garlic. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To prepare fresh lumpia, put a cos lettuce leaf on an egg roll wrapper. Put 2 tablespoons of filling on the leaf, and roll up so that one end is enclosed and the leaf shows at the other end. Serve at room temperature accompanied by the dipping sauce.

To prepare fried lumpia, do not use the lettuce but put the filling on a spring roll wrapper or egg roll wrapper and roll as for spring rolls so that the filling is completely enclosed. If not serving immediately, cover and refrigerate until needed.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the lumpia, in batches, for 2 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp. Drain on paper towel and serve with the sauce.

EMPANADAS

Meat-filled pastries

MAKES: ABOUT 2 DOZEN

Filling

3 slices bacon, diced

1 tablespoon lard or oil

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 onion, finely chopped

250 g minced (ground) pork and veal, or chorizo sausage, finely chopped

125 g finely chopped raw chicken

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons tomato sauce (ketchup)

3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped pickled gherkins

Pastry

300 g (2 cups) plain flour

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar

1 egg, separated, yolk and white lightly beaten

60 ml (¼ cup) melted butter or margarine

lard or oil, for deep-frying

To make the filling, cook the bacon in a small frying pan over low heat until it is cooked through. Remove to a plate.

Heat the lard in the same pan over low heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook until soft and golden. Increase the heat, add the meats and fry until they start to change colour. Add the salt, pepper and tomato sauce and stir to combine, then reduce the heat, cover, and continue cooking for 15 minutes. Stir in the hard-boiled egg and pickled gherkin, then remove from the heat and allow to cool before filling the pastry. Taste, and add more seasoning if necessary.

To make the pastry, sift the flour and salt into a bowl. In a separate bowl, combine the sugar, egg yolk and 125 ml (½ cup) water. Add to the flour and mix well, then knead until smooth. Leave to rest for 15 minutes. Roll out half the pastry very thinly on a lightly floured work surface and brush with half of the melted butter. Roll up tightly into a long, thin roll. Cut into 2.5 cm thick slices, then roll each slice out again into a circle with a 10 cm diameter.

Put a spoonful of filling in the centre of each circle, brush the edges with the egg white and fold to make a half-moon shape pressing to seal. Repeat with the remaining pastry and filling.

Heat the lard in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the empanadas, in batches, until golden brown. Drain on paper towel and serve warm.

PESA

Fish with ginger

SERVES: 4

2 x 500 g whole flathead or other delicate white fish

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

rice water (see note)

½ teaspoon salt

4 spring onions, 2 whole, 2 chopped

1 coriander sprig

Misu tomato sauce

2 tablespoons chopped pork fat

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 onion, finely chopped

2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons misu (mashed salted soy beans) or yellow miso

1 tablespoon vinegar

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Clean and scale the fish, leaving the head on. To clean the cavity, wipe inside the fish cavity with damp paper towel that has first been dipped in coarse salt. Trim any long spines or fins neatly. Set aside.

To make the sauce, heat the pork fat in a saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook until soft. Add the tomato and cook to a pulp, then add the vinegar and pepper, stirring well, and simmer to heat through. Keep warm.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the ginger and cook until soft and golden. Add the pepper, then place the fish in the pan and add just enough rice water to almost cover. Add the salt, lay a spring onion over each fish, cover, and simmer for 8 minutes, or until the fish is cooked. Carefully transfer the fish to a serving dish, scatter over the chopped spring onion and garnish with coriander. Pour the cooking liquid around the fish and serve the misu tomato sauce and some white rice on the side.

Note: ‘Rice water’ is the water in which rice has been washed prior to cooking.

UKOY

Prawn and sweet potato fritters

MAKES: ABOUT 20

1½ teaspoons salt

250 g raw small school prawns

150 g (1 cup) plain flour

80 g (½ cup) ground rice

30 g (¼ cup) cornflour

2 eggs

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

125 g (1 cup) peeled and grated sweet potato

115 g (1 cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed and blanched

4 spring onions, thinly sliced

oil, for deep-frying

Put 250 ml (1 cup) water into a large saucepan with the salt and bring to the boil. Gently lower in the prawns and when the water returns to the boil, cover, and cook for 3–4 minutes, or until the prawns turn pink. Drain the prawns, reserving the cooking liquid. Remove the heads — in the Philippines the prawns are left in their shells and this may be done if they are very small. If they are not, the shells are somewhat tough and I prefer to peel them, leaving only the tails on.

Put the flour, ground rice and cornflour into a large bowl. Beat the eggs and add the pepper and 1 cup of the prawn cooking liquid, making up the measure with water if needed. Add to the dry ingredients and beat well to make a smooth batter.

Add the sweet potato, bean sprouts and half of the spring onion to the batter, stirring well to combine.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Take 1 tablespoon of the batter at a time, placing 2 or 3 prawns and a sprinkling of spring onion on top of the spoon before sliding it into the hot oil. Spoon the oil over them as they cook and when the underside is golden brown turn and fry the other side. The oil should not be too hot or they will darken before they are cooked and crisp. Drain on paper towel and serve hot.

Note: Make a garlic and vinegar dipping sauce by crushing 1 garlic clove with 1 teaspoon salt and adding to 60 ml (¼ cup) mild vinegar. Serve with the fritters.

KILAW

Marinated fish salad

SERVES: 8

Fish is marinated in lime or lemon juice and the acid turns the fish white and opaque so that it looks ‘cooked’, although the texture is a little different. I have used this recipe with many kinds of fish and found that the best results were with snapper, redfish and flathead, but any delicate white fish is suitable.

1 kg skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets, such as flathead, snapper and redfish

250 ml (1 cup) lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt, plus extra to taste

2 onions, very thinly sliced

250 ml (1 cup) coconut cream

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 large red capsicum (pepper), seeded and diced

1 large green capsicum (pepper), seeded and diced

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

3–4 firm red tomatoes, peeled and diced

1 large lettuce, leaves separated

Cut the fish into bite-sized pieces and place in a non-metallic bowl with the lemon juice, tossing to cover the fish. Add the salt and onion and stir with a wooden spoon. Do not use metal utensils. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, stirring once or twice while marinating.

In a large bowl, combine the coconut cream, garlic, ginger, pepper and turmeric and mix well to combine.

Drain the fish, discarding the lemon juice. Add the coconut dressing, capsicums, spring onion and tomato and toss together to coat the fish and vegetables in the dressing. Serve the mixture in a dish lined with lettuce leaves.

GUINATAAN HIPON

Prawns in coconut milk

SERVES: 6

750 g raw prawns

500 ml (2 cups) thick coconut milk

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Rinse and drain the prawns but do not peel them. Put them into a saucepan with the coconut milk, garlic, ginger, salt and pepper and bring to the boil, stirring to combine. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring frequently, until the prawns turn pink. Serve with hot white rice.

CARDILLO

Fried fish with tomatoes and egg

SERVES: 4

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

2 tablespoons lard or olive oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 tomatoes, thinly sliced

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Cut the fish into strips. Rub a little salt over the fish to coat.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the lard in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the fish and stir-fry, in batches, until golden brown. Remove to a plate once cooked.

Heat the remaining lard over low heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden, then add the onion and tomato and season with salt, to taste. Cook until the tomato is soft and pulpy, then add 125 ml (½ cup) water and simmer for 3–5 minutes. Return the fish to the wok, then remove from the heat and add the egg, stirring to combine and heat through until the egg is set. Serve hot.

ARROZ A LA PAELLA

Rice with chicken and seafood

SERVES: 6–8

Among the many dishes with Spanish flavour found in the Philippines is this favourite rice dish popular for feast days.

1.5 kg whole chicken

500 g pork chops (cutlets)

1 raw lobster tail (optional)

2 chorizos (hot Spanish sausages)

olive oil, for frying

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined, tails left intact

500 g fresh mussels, scrubbed and beards removed

Sofrito

½ teaspoon saffron strands

2 tablespoons boiling water

60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil

2 large onions, finely chopped

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

250 g (1 cup) tinned chopped tomatoes

3 teaspoons salt

3 teaspoons paprika

500 g (2¼ cups) long-grain rice

1.125 litres (4¼ cups) hot chicken or fish stock

130 g (1 cup) peas

1 red capsicum (pepper), seeded and thinly sliced

Joint the chicken, cut it into serving pieces and season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cut the pork chops into dice, discarding the bones. Chop the lobster tail, if using, into large slices, including the shell. Pierce the chorizos in a few places with a sharp knife, then place into a saucepan with enough water to cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain well and slice into rounds. Set aside.

Heat enough olive oil in a large heavy-based frying pan to cover the base of the pan. Add the chicken and cook on all sides over medium heat, until golden. Remove to a plate. Add the lobster and cook for 1–2 minutes, or until the shell turns pink. Remove to a plate. Add the chorizo to the pan and cook for 5 minutes, then remove to a plate and drain on paper towel. Add the pork to the pan and cook for 10 minutes, then remove to a plate. Discard the oil in the pan.

To make the sofrito, combine the saffron strands and boiling water in a bowl and leave to soak. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and golden. Add the garlic, the soaked saffron and the soaking liquid and the tomatoes and cook until the tomatoes are soft and pulpy. Add the salt and paprika and stir well, then add the rice to the pan and stir over medium heat for 3–4 minutes to coat. Add the hot stock, stir well and bring to the boil. Add the chicken, pork, chorizo and lobster, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the prawns and mussels, pushing the mussels into the rice so they will cook in the steam. Do not stir; do not use any mussels that are not tightly closed before cooking, and discard any mussels that do not open during cooking. Scatter the peas over the top, cover, and cook for a further 15 minutes, or until the rice is cooked through and most of the liquid has been absorbed. Garnish with the capsicum to serve.

FRITADA

Chicken fritada

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 tablespoons lard or oil

5 garlic cloves, crushed

1 large onion, thinly sliced

2 ripe tomatoes, diced

1½ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

500 g new potatoes, halved or quartered if large

1 red capsicum (pepper), seeded and thinly sliced

1 green capsicum (pepper), seeded and thinly sliced

Chicken stock

neck, back and wings of 1.5 kg chicken (see Chicken fritada)

1 teaspoon salt

1 star anise

whole black peppercorns

1 onion, peeled

1 garlic clove

3–4 celery leaves

1 carrot, chopped

Joint the chicken and cut it into serving pieces. Reserve the neck, back and wing tips for making the stock.

To make the chicken stock, put the reserved neck, back and wing tips into a large saucepan with enough water to cover. Add all of the remaining ingredients and simmer over low heat for at least 30 minutes, or longer if you prefer a stronger flavour. Strain and reserve 375 ml (1½ cups) of the hot stock.

Heat the lard in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook until the onion is soft. Add the chicken and turn to brown on all sides. Add the tomato, salt, pepper and stock, cover, and cook over medium heat until the chicken is half done. Add the potato and capsicums and continue cooking until the potato is done. Serve hot with white rice.

ADOBONG MANOK

Chicken adobo with coconut sauce

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

185 ml (¾ cup) white vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

1 bay leaf

½ teaspoon whole peppercorns

3–4 annatto seeds (glossary)

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

oil, for frying

125 ml (½ cup) thick coconut milk

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces, separating the drumsticks from thighs and cutting the breast into four pieces. Put into a large saucepan, add the garlic, vinegar, salt, bay leaf, peppercorns, annatto seeds, soy sauce and enough water to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 25–30 minutes. Uncover, and continue simmering for a further 10 minutes, or until the chicken is tender but not falling off the bone. Remove the chicken pieces to a plate.

Bring the liquid in the pan to the boil and cook quickly until thickened and reduced to about 375 ml (1½ cups). Strain into a bowl and refrigerate briefly to cool. Skim as much fat as possible off the sauce.

Heat a little oil in a large heavy-based frying pan and lightly fry the chicken over high heat to brown, then turn to brown the other side.

Meanwhile, heat the sauce in a separate saucepan with the coconut milk, stirring until well combined and heated through.

Serve the chicken with the warm sauce spooned over the top and white rice.

PIPI-AN

Chicken and pork in peanut sauce

SERVES: 6–8

750 g chicken thigh fillets, cut into large cubes

500 g pork loin chops (cutlets), cut into large cubes

125 g ham, diced

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sauce

100 g (½ cup) long-grain rice

80 g lard or 80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

1 teaspoon annatto seeds (glossary)

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 onions, finely chopped

2 tablespoons pork fat, diced

140 g (½ cup) peanut butter

Put the chicken, pork and ham into a saucepan with enough water to just cover, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the meat is tender. Strain the meat, reserving the stock.

To make the sauce, toast the rice in a dry frying pan over low heat until golden, then grind to a powder in a food processor or pound using a mortar and pestle. Heat the lard in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the annatto seeds and stir-fry for 1 minute — you will need to cover the pan. Remove the seeds using a skimmer and discard. In the coloured oil, cook the garlic, onion and pork fat until soft and golden brown.

Mix together the ground rice and the reserved stock to make a smooth cream, then add to the pan with the peanut butter, stirring well to combine. Bring to the boil, adding more stock as necessary. Add the chicken, pork and ham to the sauce and continue to cook until heated through. Serve with white rice.

SOTANGHON MANOK

Chicken with cellophane noodles

SERVES: 4–6

250 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

6 large dried shiitake mushrooms

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 tablespoons lard or oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 teaspoons annatto seeds (glossary)

12 spring onions, thinly sliced

Soak the noodles in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain well and cut into short lengths.

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well, cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Put the chicken into a large heavy-based saucepan with enough water to cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 40 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Allow to cool in the cooking liquid, then lift out the chicken and drain. Remove all the skin and bones from the chicken and cut the meat into large pieces. Strain and reserve the stock.

Heat the lard in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft and golden. Add the chicken meat and fish sauce and allow to simmer for a few minutes. Combine the annatto seeds and 2 tablespoons hot water in a bowl and stir until the water turns bright orange, then strain off the water and add to the pan with the reserved chicken stock. Bring to the boil, add the noodles and mushrooms and continue simmering for 15 minutes. Just before serving, stir through the spring onion and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Serve hot.

ARROZ CALDO

Rice with chicken

SERVES: 6

1 kg whole chicken

2 tablespoons oil

10 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

500 g (2¼ cups) short-grain rice

60 ml (¼ cup) fish sauce

4 spring onions, thinly sliced

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and cook until pale golden. Remove to a plate. Add the onion and ginger to the wok and stir-fry until soft, then add the chicken and stir-fry until the chicken is golden and half cooked. Add the rice and toss to combine for 3 minutes, then return half of the fried garlic to the wok with the fish sauce and 1 litre (4 cups) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes without lifting the lid. Serve garnished with the reserved fried garlic and the spring onion.

TINOLA

Chicken tinola

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg whole chicken

1 tablespoon lard or oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 green papaya, peeled, seeded and sliced

fish sauce, to taste

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Heat the lard in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until soft. Add the chicken and stir-fry until the chicken is well browned. Add 500 ml (2 cups) water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer gently until the chicken is just tender. Add the papaya to the pan and continue to simmer until very tender. Season with fish sauce and freshly ground black pepper, to taste, and serve immediately.

PANCIT GUISADO

Fried noodles with mixed meats

SERVES: 6–8

500 g raw prawns

500 g thin egg noodles

60–80 ml (¼–⅓ cup) oil

5 garlic cloves, crushed

2 onions, thinly sliced

250 g (1 cup) shredded cooked chicken

250 g (1 cup) thinly sliced cooked pork

125 g (½ cup) thinly sliced ham, cut into fine strips

75 g (1 cup) shredded cabbage

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

lemon wedges, to serve

Put the prawns in a saucepan with enough salted water to cover. Simmer lightly until they turn pink, then remove from the heat and drain the prawns, straining and reserving 250 ml (1 cup) of the stock. Peel and devein the prawns and chop into pieces.

Soak the noodles in hot water, then cook the noodles in a saucepan of boiling water until tender. Drain well and spread out in a large baking tray lined with baking paper and dry out for at least 30 minutes, sprinkling a little oil over to prevent them sticking.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the noodles, a handful at a time, and stir-fry until golden. As each batch is done, remove to a plate, adding more oil to the wok as needed, until all of the noodles are cooked.

Heat another 1 tablespoon of the oil. Separately add the garlic, onion, prawn meat, chicken, pork and ham, cooking each until golden and removing to a plate once cooked. Set aside some of each for garnishing the dish, then return everything, except the noodles, to the wok with the cabbage, soy sauce and prawn stock. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste, and toss to combine. Cook until almost dry, then return the noodles to the wok and heat through, tossing well. Arrange on a serving platter and garnish with the reserved ingredients and lemon wedges.

POCHERO

Mixed meat stew with vegetables

SERVES: 6

This dish is a two-course meal from one pot, rather like the French pot au feu, but featuring mixed meats.

200 g (1 cup) dried chickpeas

1.5 kg whole chicken

500 g pork, cut into large cubes

2 chorizo (Spanish sausages), cut into 2.5 cm slices

1 large onion, sliced

1 tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

80 ml (⅓ cup) oil

10 garlic cloves, crushed

1 onion, finely chopped

2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and diced or 400 g tinned diced tomatoes

500 g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes

1 head Chinese cabbage (wong bok), cut into 5 cm chunks

8 spring onions, cut into 5 cm lengths

Wash the chickpeas and soak overnight in plenty of water.

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces. Put the chicken, pork, chorizo and drained chickpeas into a large heavy-based saucepan. Add the onion, salt and peppercorns and enough water to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the meat and chickpeas are tender.

Heat the oil in a separate saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook until golden brown. Add the tomato and cook until soft and pulpy, then add to the pan with the meat and stock. Add the sweet potato and simmer until it is halfcooked, then add the cabbage and spring onion and cook for a further 3–4 minutes, or until heated through and just tender. Remove the meat, chickpeas and vegetables from the pan and serve on plates with the broth served separately in a bowl.

MORCON

Stuffed rolled beef

SERVES: 6–8

1.5 kg thick skirt or flank steak in one piece

1½ teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 sweet gherkins, sliced lengthways

2 chorizo (Spanish sausages), sliced lengthways

2 thick slices cooked ham, sliced

2 hard-boiled eggs, cut lengthways into quarters

2 tablespoons lard

2 tablespoons palm or rice vinegar or 1 tablespoon white vinegar

3 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

Use a sharp knife to cut the steak through the middle, starting at the thickest edge and being careful not to cut through. This should give you a very flat piece of steak almost double the size it was originally. Sprinkle with the salt, pepper and lemon juice and smear with the crushed garlic.

Arrange the pickle, chorizo, ham and hard-boiled egg in rows over the beef, starting at one end, then roll up carefully and tie with kitchen string, so that it is firm but not too tight.

Heat the lard in a large heavy-based frying pan. Add the meat and turn to brown on all sides. Drain off any excess fat, then add the vinegar, tomato and 500 ml (2 cups) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer gently, for 1¼ hours, or until the meat is tender when tested with a thin metal skewer. Remove the meat to a plate to rest briefly before serving.

Bring the liquid in the pan to a boil and cook rapidly until the sauce thickens. Remove the kitchen string from the rolled beef and cut into slices. Serve hot with the sauce on the side.

MECHADO

Beef pot roast

SERVES: 6–8

1.5 kg beef topside in one piece

strips of pork fat (optional)

4 large onions, quartered

4 large tomatoes, halved

1 bay leaf

125 ml (½ cup) palm or rice vinegar or diluted white vinegar

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

6 potatoes, peeled and quartered

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons lard or oil

Use a sharp knife to make cuts in the beef and insert the strips of pork fat at regular intervals, if using — this will help to keep the beef moist. Put the meat in a deep, heavy-based saucepan with the onion, tomato, bay leaf, vinegar, soy sauce and enough water to cover the meat. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the meat is almost tender. Add the potato and pepper and simmer, uncovered, until the potato is cooked and the liquid almost evaporated.

Transfer the sauce to a serving plate, add the lard to the pan and continue to cook the beef over high heat, turning often, until brown all over. Remove from the pan, cut into slices and serve with the potato and sauce.

ALMONDIGAS (1)

Beef and pork balls simmered in stock

SERVES: 4

250 g minced (ground) pork

250 g minced (ground) beef

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 small egg

1½ tablespoons oil

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 onion, finely chopped

2 ripe tomatoes, diced

1 litre (4 cups) rice water (see note)

2 teaspoons soy sauce

In a large bowl, combine the pork and beef, salt, pepper and egg, using your hands to mix well. Take portions of the mixture at a time and shape into balls.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook until golden brown, then add the tomato and cook, stirring often, until soft. Add the rice water, bring to the boil, then add the meatballs, in batches, and simmer until well cooked. Serve hot.

Note: ‘Rice water’ is the water in which rice has been washed prior to cooking.

SINIGANG NA CARNE

Sour soup of beef

SERVES: 6–8

500 g shin beef

500 g soup (beef) bones

250 g pork chop (cutlet), trimmed of fat

1 onion, thinly sliced

2 under-ripe tomatoes, sliced

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

1 large sweet potato, peeled and diced

1 large white radish, peeled and sliced

2 cups shredded spinach or other leafy greens

fish sauce, to taste

lime or lemon wedges, to serve

Put the beef, soup bones and pork chop into a large saucepan or stockpot with enough water to cover the meat. Add the onion, tomato and salt. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the meat is tender. Remove the meat to a plate and allow to cool, then thinly slice the pork and dice the beef. Discard the bones.

Meanwhile, soak the tamarind pulp in 250 ml (1 cup) hot water for 10 minutes. Squeeze to dissolve the pulp in the water, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre.

Return the meat to the soup in the pan. Add the tamarind liquid, sweet potato and radish and continue to simmer over low heat until the vegetables are almost soft, then add the spinach and season with fish sauce, to taste. As soon as the spinach has wilted, serve hot with the lime or lemon wedges.

PICADILLO

Savoury minced beef

SERVES: 6

1 tablespoon lard or oil

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 onion, finely chopped

500 g minced (ground) beef

2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

500 ml (2 cups) beef stock

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

500 g potatoes, peeled and cubed

Heat the lard in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook until soft and golden. Add the beef and stir until the meat has changed colour, then add the tomato and cook until it is soft and pulpy. Add the stock, salt and pepper and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes, then add the potato and cook for a further 25 minutes, or until the potato is cooked through. Serve hot.

BEEF PARES:

Spiced beef stew

SERVES: 4

Beef pares is a heady beef stew, fragrant with star anise. Traditionally made with brisket, I prefer to use shin (shank or gravy beef) as it is less fatty, but stays moist because of the connective tissue which turns meltingly gelatinous with long cooking. Don’t make the mistake of using a lean cut such as blade — it will end up dry as old boots.

500 g beef, diced

60 ml (¼ cup) soy sauce

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

45 g (¼ cup) soft brown sugar

2 onions, 1 chopped, 1 finely chopped

2 star anise

2 tablespoons oil

3 garlic cloves, chopped

3 tablespoons thinly sliced spring onion, to serve

Put the beef, soy sauce, pepper, sugar, chopped onion and star anise in a large saucepan with 1 litre (4 cups) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour, or until the meat is tender (this will vary depending on the cut used). Allow the meat to cool in the liquid, then lift out the beef and reserve the stock.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the finely chopped onion and garlic and cook until soft. Add the drained, cooked beef and cook, stirring, for a few minutes, then add the reserved stock and simmer until the liquid has thickened and reduced. Garnish with the spring onion and serve with rice

KARI-KARI

Beef and vegetable stew

SERVES: 6–8

2 kg oxtail, jointed

1 kg beef shin on the bone, sliced

3 teaspoons salt

60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil

2 teaspoons annatto seeds (glossary)

2 large onions, thinly sliced

4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

100 g (½ cup) long-grain rice

70 g (½ cup) roasted peanuts

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

375 g (3 cups) sliced green beans

2 eggplants (aubergines), cut into large pieces

2 tablespoons fish sauce, or to taste

2 tablespoons thinly sliced spring onion, to garnish

2 tablespoons chopped celery leaves, to garnish

Put the oxtail and beef into a pressure cooker with just enough water to cover. Add 2 teaspoons of the salt and cook under pressure for 1 hour. Allow to cool to lukewarm, then strain the stock, reserving the meat. Put the stock in the refrigerator to chill. If no pressure cooker is available, simmer the meat in a large saucepan until almost tender.

Wipe the meat with paper towel to soak up any excess moisture. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan or casserole dish and brown the pieces of meat, turning regularly, until brown all over — you may need to do this in batches. Remove to a plate when done.

Pour the fat from the pan and heat the remaining oil over low heat. Add the annatto seeds and stir-fry over low heat for 1 minute — you may need to cover the pan as they might spit. Remove the seeds using a slotted spoon and discard. Add the onion and garlic and cook in the coloured oil until soft.

Remove the top layer of fat from the chilled stock and re-heat it in a small saucepan until liquid, then stir in 2 litres (8 cups) hot water to combine.

Put the rice in a dry frying pan and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the grains are evenly coloured. When they are deep golden, allow to cool slightly, then grind to a powder in a spice grinder or food processor. Add the peanuts and continue to process to a powder.

Return the meat to the pan with the onion and garlic and stir to combine, then add the water mixture and pepper and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, partially cover, and simmer until the meat is tender and easily pierced with a fork, but not falling off the bone. There should be enough liquid to cover the meat; if not, add more hot water. Add the rice powder, stirring until smooth. Add the beans and eggplant and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Add the fish sauce, to taste.

Serve immediately, garnished with the spring onion and celery leaves with white rice on the side. If liked, accompany this dish with extra fish sauce, soy sauce, a hot sambal sauce or (for real Filipino eating) a sauce made from equal quantities of shrimp paste and lime juice.

UMBA

Simmered pork

SERVES: 6

1 kg pork shoulder, cut into large cubes

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons soft brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

125 ml (½ cup) palm or rice vinegar or diluted white vinegar

½ bay leaf

Put the pork into a large heavy-based saucepan with 250 ml (1 cup) water. Add all of the remaining ingredients and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the pork is cooked through and tender. Serve with rice.

ALMONDIGAS (2)

Pork and prawn balls

SERVES: 4

250 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and finely chopped

250 g minced (ground) pork

1 spring onion, finely chopped

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon shrimp sauce

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

½ cup fine wheat noodles

In a large bowl, combine the prawn meat, pork, spring onion and salt, and use your hands to mix well. Take portions of the mixture at a time and shape into balls.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until golden brown, then add the shrimp sauce and 750 ml (3 cups) water. Bring to the boil, then add the meatballs, in batches, and cook for 8 minutes, or until well cooked. Return all the balls to the pan and add the noodles, then remove from the heat, cover, and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste, and serve hot.

Note: You can use rice vermicelli instead of the fine wheat noodles, but you will need to cook them for 1 minute before removing from the heat.

MENUDO

Pork and liver stew

SERVES: 6

1 tablespoon oil

2 teaspoons annatto seeds (glossary)

1 tablespoon crushed garlic

1 onion, finely chopped

2 tomatoes, sliced

500 g pork, cut into 5 cm cubes

3 potatoes, diced

250 g pork liver, finely diced

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the annatto seeds and stir-fry for 1 minute, then lift out the seeds with a slotted spoon and discard.

Add the garlic and onion to the coloured oil in the pan and cook until soft and golden. Add the tomato and cook until soft and pulpy, then add the pork, cover, and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the pork is tender. Add the potato — you may need to add a little stock or water at this point if there is very little liquid in the pan. Simmer until the potato is cooked through. Add the liver to the pan with the salt and pepper and bring back to the boil until the liver is cooked through. Serve hot.

ADOBONG BABOY

Pork adobo

SERVES: 6

1 kg pork loin chops or leg chops (cutlets)

8–10 garlic cloves

500 ml (2 cups) palm or rice vinegar or 250 ml (1 cup) white vinegar diluted in 1 cup water

2 bay leaves

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

oil, for frying

Cut the skin from the pork and discard. If the chops are large, cut into serving pieces. Put the pork, garlic, vinegar, bay leaves, salt and pepper into a large heavy-based saucepan and toss well to combine. Set aside to marinate for 1 hour.

Place the pan over high heat and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 40 minutes, or until the pork is tender. Remove the pork to a plate.

Increase the heat to high and continue to boil the sauce over high heat until reduced and thickened. Strain into a small bowl, spoon off the fat and return it to the pan. Add enough oil to cover the base of the pan in 5 mm fat. Add the pork and cook, turning often, until evenly brown and crisp all over. Serve with the sauce over the top and white rice on the side.

Variation: To make a chicken and pork adobo use 500 g pork and 1.25 kg whole chicken. Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces. Continue to follow the method above, but reduce the simmering time to 30 minutes. Serve garnished with pimiento strips or tomato wedges, with white rice on the side.

RELLENONG TALONG

Stuffed eggplant

SERVES: 4

2 eggplants (aubergines), halved lengthways

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon oil

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 onion, finely chopped

250 g minced (ground) pork

1 large ripe tomato, chopped

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

60 g (1 cup) fresh breadcrumbs

1 egg, beaten

dry breadcrumbs, for coating

oil, for frying

Put the eggplant and 250 ml (1 cup) water in a saucepan with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until tender but not too soft. Remove the eggplant from the water and place over paper towel, cut side down, to drain. Scoop out some of the pulp, leaving a firm shell. Finely chop the pulp and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook until golden. Add the pork and stir-fry until it changes colour. Add the tomato, pepper and remaining salt and cook for 15 minutes. Add the eggplant pulp and continue cooking until the mixture starts to dry out. Remove from the heat, stir in the fresh breadcrumbs, taste and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, if desired.

Divide the mixture among the eggplant halves to fill each one, then brush over the tops with the egg and scatter over the dry breadcrumbs to coat.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the eggplants and cook on one side for 10 minutes, before gently turning and cooking the top until golden. Serve hot.

AMPALAYA

Bitter melon with prawns

SERVES: 6

500 g bitter melons (bitter gourds)

250 g raw prawns

oil, for frying

2 onions, chopped

5 garlic cloves, chopped

250 g pork fillet, thinly sliced

1 kg ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

125 ml (½ cup) palm or rice vinegar

Cut the bitter melons in half lengthways, scoop out and discard the seeds and thinly slice.

Put the prawns and 500 ml (2 cups) water in a saucepan with a little salt over medium heat and cook lightly until they turn pink. Allow to cool, then drain the prawns, straining and reserving 250 ml (1 cup) of the stock. Peel and devein the prawns and chop into small pieces.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until golden. Add the pork and stir-fry until the colour changes, then add the tomato. and cook until soft and pulpy. Add the prawn meat and reserved stock and stir well, then bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, add the vinegar and simmer for 3–4 minutes. Add the bitter melon and continue simmering, or until the melon is tender. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste, and serve hot with white rice.

AMARGOSO SALAD

Bitter melon salad

SERVES: 4

1 bitter melon (bitter gourd), thinly sliced

250 g raw prawns

2 firm red tomatoes, peeled and diced

2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped

Dressing

60 ml (¼ cup) white vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Blanch the bitter melon in a saucepan of boiling water for 1 minute, then drain immediately and cool.

Put the prawns and 500 ml (2 cups) water in a saucepan with a little salt over medium heat and cook lightly until they turn pink. Allow to cool, then drain well. Peel and devein the prawns and chop into pieces. Allow to cool.

Put the bitter melon, prawn meat, tomato and hard-boiled egg into a large serving bowl.

In a small bowl, combine all of the dressing ingredients, stirring well to dissolve the sugar. Pour over the salad and toss gently to coat. Cover and chill before serving.

SALAD NA PAPAYA

Papaya salad

SERVES: 6

1 firm papaya

1 small ripe pineapple, peeled, cored and diced

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 apple, peeled, cored and diced

60 g (½ cup) thinly sliced celery

125 ml (½ cup) salad dressing or mayonnaise

Peel the papaya, cut in halves and scoop out the seeds. Cut the flesh into dice. Combine the papaya in a large serving bowl with the pineapple, spring onion, apple and celery. Add the salad dressing and toss to coat all of the ingredients. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste, then cover and chill before serving.

CAPUCHINOS

Small brandied cakes

MAKES: 12

60 g butter, melted, plus extra, for greasing

75 g (½ cup) plain flour

½ teaspoon baking powder

a pinch of salt

2 large eggs

110 g (½ cup) sugar

1 tablespoon brandy

Syrup

110 g (½ cup) sugar

1 tablespoon brandy

Preheat the oven to 200°C (Gas 6). Lightly grease a 12-hole muffin tray with the extra butter.

To make the syrup, put the sugar and 125 ml (½ cup) water into a small saucepan over low heat and stir to dissolve the sugar. Bring to the boil and boil for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow to cool before stirring in the brandy.

Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl.

Beat the eggs in a separate bowl until frothy, add the sugar gradually and continue beating until thick and light. Mix in the melted butter and brandy, then fold in the dry ingredients until well combined.

Half-fill each muffin hole with batter and bake for about 10–12 minutes, or until the cakes are golden brown. Remove from the muffin holes, and while still warm, dip briefly into the syrup to coat and place on a wire rack to cool and dry before serving.

BOMBONES DE ARROZ

Rice fritters

MAKES: ABOUT 24

165 g (¾ cup) short-grain rice

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

110 g (½ cup) caster sugar

½ teaspoon natural vanilla extract

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

110 g (¾ cup) plain flour

3 teaspoons baking powder

oil, for deep-frying

icing sugar, for sprinkling

Put the rice and 375 ml (1½ cups) water in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

In a large bowl, mix together the rice, egg, sugar, vanilla and nutmeg.

Sift together the flour and baking powder in a separate bowl and stir into the rice mixture until thoroughly combined.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Drop 1 tablespoon of the mixture into the hot oil at a time and deep-fry, in batches, turning often, until golden brown and nicely puffed. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Sprinkle with the icing sugar and serve warm.

Note: You can use leftover rice to make these fritters — use 2 cups cooked rice.

ENSAIMADA

Sweet bread rolls

MAKES: 18

30 g fresh compressed yeast

3 teaspoons sugar

600 g (4 cups) plain flour

185 g butter, plus 125 g extra, melted

110 g (½ cup) caster sugar, plus 3 tablespoons extra for sprinkling

6 egg yolks

125 ml (½ cup) milk

125 g (1¼ cups) finely grated mature cheese, preferably Dutch Edam

Crumble the yeast into a bowl with 60 ml (¼ cup) warm water and stir in the sugar until dissolved. Add 1 teaspoon of the flour and stir to combine, then set aside in a warm place.

Beat the butter until soft, then add the sugar and continue beating until pale and creamy. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the flour and milk alternately, until combined, then add the yeast mixture and beat well until smooth and combined — the dough should be soft, but not so soft that it sticks to the sides of the bowl; add a little more flour if needed. Roll the dough into a ball. Place in a lightly greased bowl, cover, and leave in a warm place for about 1 hour, or until doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 170°C (Gas 3). Grease two baking trays. Divide the dough into two equal portions and roll out each on a lightly floured work surface to a 45 x 38 cm rectangle. Brush with some of the melted butter and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Cut each rectangle into three strips lengthways and roll up each strip like a Swiss roll, starting at the long end. Slice each roll into thirds.

Roll each piece with hands on the work surface until as thin as a pencil, then form into snail-like coils or twists. Put on the prepared trays, leaving spaces between each, then cover, and leave in a warm place 30–40 minutes, or until doubled in size.

Bake in the oven for 10–12 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and while still hot, brush over the remaining melted butter and sprinkle with caster sugar. Serve ensaimadas warm or at room temperature.

LECHE FLAN

Caramel custard

SERVES: 6–8

110 g (½ cup) sugar

3 large eggs

2 egg yolks

110 g (½ cup) caster sugar

625 ml (2½ cups) hot milk

2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 150°C (Gas 2).

Put the sugar and 60 ml (¼ cup) water into a small saucepan and heat without stirring until a deep golden brown. Remove from the heat and pour immediately into a 1.5 litre (6 cup) capacity ovenproof mould or dish. Rotate to coat the base and side with caramel.

In a large bowl, beat together the whole eggs and egg yolks until foamy. Gradually add the caster sugar, beating until thick and light. Gradually add the hot milk, beating constantly. Stir in the vanilla, then strain the custard into the caramel-lined mould.

Put the mould into a deep baking tin and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up the side of the mould. Bake in the oven for 35–45 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the centre of the custard comes out clean. Remove from the oven and cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight, or preferably for 2 days.

When ready to serve, invert the custard onto a chilled serving plate.

MANGANG SORBETES

Mango ice cream

SERVES: 6

Ice creams made from fruit, coconut and purple yam are popular in the Philippines.

500 ml (2 cups) milk

2 eggs, separated

110 g (½ cup) caster sugar

1 teaspoon gelatine

1½–2 cups fresh or tinned mango pulp

250 ml (1 cup) pouring cream

Put the milk into a saucepan and bring slowly to the boil. Beat the egg yolks with half of the sugar in a bowl, until thick and light. Pour a little of the hot milk on to the yolks, stirring constantly, then add the yolk mixture to the pan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly — do not allow it to reach simmering point or the custard will curdle. As soon as it is thick enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon, remove from the heat and keep stirring until it cools slightly. Pour into a freezer tray and freeze until mushy.

Sprinkle the gelatine over 2 tablespoons cold water in a cup and stand the cup in a small saucepan of water. Bring to the boil so the gelatine dissolves. Put the mango pulp in a bowl and add the gelatine water, stirring to combine.

Whip the cream until it holds soft peaks — do not overbeat or the ice cream will have a buttery texture.

Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form, then add the remaining sugar and beat until soft and glossy.

Scrape the half-frozen custard into a bowl and beat with a hand-held beater until it is smooth, but do not let it melt. (Chilling the bowl helps in hot weather.) Fold in the mango pulp, egg whites and whipped cream and return to the freezer to freeze until firm.

GUAVA JELLY

MAKES: ABOUT 1 LITRE (4 CUPS)

2 kg slightly under-ripe guavas

4 green Granny Smith apples

sugar

lemon juice

Wash the fruit and cut into quarters. Put into a large saucepan with just enough cold water to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the fruit is soft and loses its colour. Strain into a bowl, through two or three layers of muslin (cheesecloth) — do not squeeze or the jelly will not be sparkling and clear. Wet the muslin and wring it out before pouring the fruit into it, or a lot of juice will be absorbed by the cloth. Reserve the pulp for making guava paste (see Guava paste).

Measure the strained juice and cook no more than 1–1.25 litres (4–5 cups) at a time. Allow 165 g (¾ cup) sugar to each cup of juice. Bring to the boil, add the warmed sugar and about 2 tablespoons strained lemon juice and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Cook the jelly, without stirring, skimming off any froth that rises to the top, until the jelly has set. To test, take a spoonful of the liquid, cool slightly and pour back into the pan from the side of the spoon — when it no longer runs off in a steady stream but thickens and ‘sheets’ as it falls, it is ready. Pour the jelly into sterilised airtight jars.

MEM BRILLO

Guava paste

To make gauva paste, follow the recipe above, but after straining the fruit pulp to extract the juice, use the leftover fruit pulp to make a sweetmeat. Push the pulp through a fine nylon sieve, discarding the seeds and skins. Weigh the pulp and allow three-quarters of its weight in sugar. Heat the pulp and sugar with the juice of 1 lemon and stir constantly until very thick. Use a long-handled wooden spoon and cook over very low heat. Take care because as the mixture thickens it may spit. Cook and stir until the mixture is stiff and comes away from the pan in one mass. Turn into a buttered dish, flatten with a buttered spoon and leave to cool and firm up. Cut into thin slices to serve.

CHINA

Imagine a visit to Hong Kong just to sample Chinese specialities and to learn from some of the best Chinese chefs in the business. I consider myself very lucky indeed to have had the chance to do just that. It was an education to see specialist chefs in action, preparing dim sum of many kinds with such speed and nimbleness of fingers that it was obvious that not just knowledge but constant practice contributed to the results.

Chefs, who specialise in noodles alone, have skills in the kitchen that are more like a magician perform performing sleight of hand than a chef making noodles. In seconds, lumps of well-kneaded dough were transformed into dozens of incredibly fine strands, stretched to an arm’s length, the ends folded together, then stretched again so that first there was one thick rope of dough, then two, four, eight, sixteen and so on, ending in a veritable curtain of noodles which were then dropped into a bubbling cauldron.

Peking duckwith mandarin pancakes was another of the famous dishes I watched being prepared with its perfectly crisp, deep reddish-brown skin. The secret is in blowing air between the skins and the flesh of the duck until it inflates like a balloon, then tying tightly around the neck and hanging it in a special drying chamber before cooking so that the skin cannot fail to achieve the right crackling crispness.

A visit to the central market in Hong Kong was enough to make my head spin, there was such variety. One can purchase anything, from dozens of different vegetables and fruits to all sorts of meat and seafood including enormous tiger prawns, eels, snakes and live turtles. But this fairly recent experience was not my first introduction to Chinese food. It has always been a part of my life.

I grew up in Eastern countries with sizable Chinese populations and the opportunity to know good Chinese food. To help matters along, the man I married is really keen on Chinese food — not just eating eat it, but cooking it. He would pursue recipes with the single-mindedness of a bloodhound and so it came about that between us we learned a great deal about a cuisine neither of us was born into. There are many regional varieties of cooking in a country as vast as China, but ther there are five major styles. The Peking or Shantung style of cooking emphasises delicacy of flavour; Sichuan food is hot and spicy; Honan cooking is spicy, sweet and sour; the Fukien school of cooking is famous for its clear soups, seafood dishes and subtlety of flavouring; and C Cantonese cooking, best known in Western countries, is a combination of many styles, withan emphasis on stir-fried dishes and subtle flavours, and is light and digestible becaus because less fat is used than in other cooking styles. It is Cantonese cooking that excels in the steamsteamed dumplings of various kinds that are known as dim sum.

The reason Cantonese food is best known abroad is because in the nineteenth century it was from Canton, in the south of China, that large numbers of Chinese emigrated to America, Europe and Southeast Asia and introduced their cooking to these regions. It became immensely popular and has remained so to this day.

A feature of Chinese food is the variety of ingredients used. This is not because the Chinese were in search of exotic foods (though in the palaces this may have been their primary aim), but because they had to be resourceful and use everything edible in order to survive. As a result, they made use of ingredients like dried wood fungus and lily buds, lotus seed and lotus root, fish’s maw and all kinds of meat, seafood and vegetables. Bird’s nest soup is perhaps the most widely known preparation featuring an unusual ingredient. These nests are not made from twigs but from the saliva of tiny swifts and have the reputation of being very nourishing. Because the nests have to be gathered from sheer, almost inaccessible cliffs and require soaking and a lot of careful cleaning, the soup is served as a prestige course at banquets. Its presence on the menu proclaims that the host and his cooks have gone to a lot of trouble. When a special banquet is held it would not be a compliment to the guests if the menu did not include rare and expensive treats. By contrast, everyday Chinese cooking is easy and the recipes in this chapter are within the scope of the beginner cook who does not have all day to spend in the kitchen.

The cooking methods employed by the Chinese are those that are familiar in the West: boiling, braising, deep-frying, steaming and roasting. In addition, there is stir-frying, which means stirring and tossing ingredients in very little oil over high heat. It does mean that all the preparation must be done before the cooking starts, and all ingredients are cut into evenly sized pieces and shapes. The method was evolved to conserve fuel, and because of the small size of the pieces of food, the cooking time is often only five minutes from start to finish — a delay in preparation while ingredients are cooking could mean a disappointing result. Ingredients are added in a certain order, those which take longest to cook being put in first. With a little practice, this split-second timing becomes second nature. It is better to let guests wait for such a dish, rather than the other way around, because if the food has to wait it will continue cooking in its own heat and the effect will be spoilt. A great deal depends on texture in Chinese food and the vegetables must be crisp and the meat or fish just cooked and juicy, never overdone or dry.

Cheap cuts of lean meat, such as round steak or blade steak may be used for stir-fries, but because of the extremely short cooking time, they should be tenderised by the Chinese method. Shred or slice meat as directed. For every 500 g of meat, dissolve ½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda in 60 ml (¼ cup) hot water. Add to the meat and knead well until the liquid is absorbed. Cover and refrigerate for two hours or overnight, if possible. Proceed with the recipe in the usual way. This method is used in many Chinese restaurants, making cheaper cuts of meat as tender as the choicest fillet.

SERVING AND EATING A CHINESE MEAL

A Chinese meal does not feature one main dish, but a number of dishes of equal importance. A formal banquet is served as a succession of courses with pauses in between for drinking, conversation and playing games, which explains how diners can partake of ten or more courses. At family meals, or informal entertaining, all the dishes are placed on the table at once. This makes it unnecessary for the hostess to leave the table once the meal has started.

Rice is always the basis of the meal — steamed plain white rice, either short or medium grained, is cooked without salt. Fried rice is not usually served with meals, but is a snack in itself, composed of cold cooked rice and other ingredients. Utilising any leftover plain rice is ideal.

Each place-setting includes a bowl, chopsticks and porcelain spoon, cups for wine or tea and a small plate which doubles as a saucer under the eating bowl and also acts as a bone plate. It is considered quite polite to extricate bones from the mouth, using chopsticks, and put them on a bone plate. A small sauce dish is also part of the individual setting for meals that require a dipping sauce.

When first choosing a menu for a Chinese meal, do not attempt more than one stirfried dish. Instead, choose a braised dish, perhaps a cold starter, a roasted dish, soup and a cold main dish, such as chicken with oyster sauce. Desserts are not a part of Chinese meals for everyday eating, but a special meal finishes with a sweet, such as almond jelly or fresh fruit.

UTENSILS

A Chinese kitchen usually has a ‘bench’ fireplace along one wall, with holes in the bench top to hold the woks above the direct heat, most often supplied by wood fires. In restaurants they use fierce gas jets to provide the quick and flexible heat required in many Chinese cooking methods. Almost every Chinese dish can be prepared in a Western kitchen using Western equipment, but here I would urge that you acquire a wok, rather than make do with a frying pan or saucepan, because it is really a remarkably versatile utensil (see eating for health).

You may use a good kitchen knife, but once you have become accustomed to a razorsharp Chinese chopper, you’ll never want to use anything else. Choppers may look clumsy with their wide blade, but the corner of the blade can do anything the point of a knife can do. A chopper is the best thing for slicing, shredding, chopping or dicing. As an extra bonus, its big blade can be used to carry cut ingredients from chopping block to cooking pan. It is wise to have both a chopper and a cleaver, the cleaver being thicker and heavier and intended for chopping through bones, a technique used widely in Chinese cooking, while the chopper with its thin blade does the more delicate jobs with ease and precision.

Use the chopper and cleaver on a wooden block or board. I do not recommend laminated chopping boards, whatever kind of knife you use — when you get down to serious cooking there’s nothing to take the place of a solid wooden chopping board. Wood is safer too because the surface is not smooth and slippery.

The Chinese use steamers of bamboo and aluminium, but these are not strictly essential because it is easy enough to improvise a steamer. Steaming can be done in any covered pan large enough to accommodate a plate placed on a rack or a bowl to hold it well above the level of the boiling water. The plate should be of a size that will allow free circulation of steam around and above it. The food to be cooked is put on the plate, the pot covered with a well-fitting lid, and there you have a perfectly adequate steamer.

Chinese bamboo steamers are particularly suitable for steaming buns or dumplings, for the natural perforations of the lid allow excess steam to escape and not gather inside (as they do on a metal lid) and drop back on to the buns, making them wet and spoiling their appearance. Overcome this problem by putting buns and dim sum on a perforated rack over boiling water, cover the pan with a clean cloth folded into a double layer and then a lid. The cloth prevents steam gathering on the lid and falling back onto the buns.

Chinese ladles and frying spoons (wok chan) are useful but not strictly necessary if you have other utensils that will do the job. Any kind of ladle can be used for dipping out stock, and I have found that the curved, slotted spatula is ideal for tossing and stir-frying and for lifting food from deep oil.

Chinese skimmers, frying spoons of finely twisted wire mesh, are useful. So too is a large wire spoon that can cope with a whole fish, lifting it out of oil with ease — a consideration if you like cooking whole fish. Long wooden cooking chopsticks are also useful, especially for separating noodles as they cook, and for a variety of other purposes from beating eggs to stirring ingredients.

FRESH INGREDIENTS

In addition to the ingredients listed opposite, which have a long shelf life, there are the essential fresh ingredients that give flavour to Chinese food — fresh ginger, garlic, fresh coriander and spring onions. When required for special dishes, fresh bean sprouts and snow peas (mangetout) can be bought and stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Tofu is a popular source of protein. Chinese sausages (lap cheong) are also useful. Spring roll wrappers and won ton pastry keep well in the freezer.

YOUR CHINESE SHELF

agar-agar powder

arrowroot

baby corn

bamboo shoots, tinned

black beans, salted, tinned

chestnut flour

chestnuts, dried

chilli oil

chillies, large dried red

Chinese barbecue (char siu) sauce

Chinese chilli sauce

Chinese chilli bean sauce

Chinese ground bean sauce

chow chow preserves (substitute ginger in syrup or

bottled Sri Lankan chow chow preserve) (glossary)

cornflour

five-spice powder

hoisin sauce

lily buds, dried

lotus nut paste, tinned

lotus root, frozen

oyster sauce

peanut oil

plum sauce

preserved melon shreds (glossary)

sesame oil

sesame paste

shiitake mushrooms, dried

sichuan peppercorns

soy sauce, light, dark and mushroom

star anise

straw mushrooms, tinned

tapioca flour

walnuts

water chestnut starch

water chestnuts, tinned

ginkgo nuts, tinned

wood fungus, dried

FAN

White rice

SERVES 4–6

500 g (2¼ cups) short-grain or medium-grain rice

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes.

Put the rice and 750 ml (3 cups) water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil over high heat. Let it boil rapidly for 1–2 minutes, then reduce the heat to medium and cook until holes appear in the surface. Cover with a tightfitting lid, reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for a further 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, without removing the lid and let the rice sit undisturbed for a further 10 minutes to finish cooking.

CHING CHOONG CHOW FAN

Spring onion and soy fried rice

SERVES: 3–4

2 tablespoons peanut oil

3–4 cups cold cooked white rice (opposite)

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon mushroom soy sauce

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the rice and stir-fry until all of the grains are separate and lightly coloured. Add the sauces and toss to evenly combine, then add the spring onion and continue to toss for a further 1 minute to combine and heat through. Serve hot.

Note: You can vary this recipe to make a more elaborate fried rice so it can be a meal in its own right. Add one or more of the following ingredients, which should be stir-fried separately before combining with the rice: diced ham or bacon; diced pork; sliced Chinese sausage (lap cheong); small prawns; beaten eggs; green peas.

GAI SEE FUN GUEN

Steamed rice parcels

SERVES: 8–10

500 g (2¼ cups) medium-grain rice

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

3 teaspoons sesame oil

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

2 chicken breast fillets, diced

250 g barbecued pork, diced

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons cornflour

dried bamboo leaves or lotus leaves, rehydrated in warm water (see note)

Put the rice and 1 litre (4 cups) water into a large saucepan with the light soy sauce and 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil. Bring to the boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat, without removing the lid and let the rice sit undisturbed for a further 10 minutes to finish cooking.

Meanwhile, soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, reserving 310 ml (1¼ cups) of the soaking liquid, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Put the mushrooms and 185 ml (¾ cup) of the reserved soaking liquid into a large saucepan with the dark soy sauce, remaining sesame oil and the sugar. Cover and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Add the chicken, pork, garlic, ginger, salt and the remaining mushroom soaking liquid and mix well to combine. Re-cover and simmer for a further 5 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through.

In a small bowl, mix together the cornflour with a little cold water to make a smooth paste. Add to the pan, stirring until the sauce turns clear, then remove from the heat and allow to cool to lukewarm.

Mix the sauce ingredients gently through the rice until well combined. Arrange four overlapping bamboo leaves or 1 lotus leaf on a clean work surface. Spoon over ¾ cup of the rice mixture and roll up into a neat parcel, securing with kitchen string. Repeat until all of the rice mixture has been used — you should make about 8 parcels in total. Steam the rice parcels for 25 minutes. Serve warm or cold.

Note: If bamboo or lotus leaves are not available, use foil to wrap the rice into secure parcels before steaming.

JAHP WUI CHOW MIN

Combination chow mein

SERVES: 6

Chow mein, a popular dish in Western countries, is sometimes made with crisp fried noodles to pander to Western preference, but the authentic recipe calls for soft-fried noodles combined with other ingredients. A delicious way of using leftovers. The quantities are only a guide — use what you have on hand.

500 g dried fine egg noodles

peanut oil, for frying

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

250 g (1 cup) sliced barbecued pork

250 g (1 cup) diced cooked chicken

50 g (½ cup) tinned abalone, sliced (optional)

75 g (1 cup) shredded Chinese or mustard cabbage

115 g (1 cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

8 spring onions, cut into short lengths

150 g (1 cup) sliced bamboo shoot

2 teaspoons cornflour

125 ml (½ cup) light stock or water

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

Soak the noodles in hot water for 10 minutes, then cook in a saucepan of boiling water until tender. Drain well, then soft-fry the noodles as described. Set aside and keep warm.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for a few seconds, then add the pork, chicken, abalone, cabbage, bean sprouts, spring onion and bamboo shoot and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes, or until well combined and heated through. Push the ingredients to the side of the wok.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add the stock and soy sauce to the wok, bring to the boil, then stir in the cornflour mixture and continue stirring until the sauce boils and thickens. Mix in the meat and vegetables and serve immediately over the noodles.

CHAI CHOW FAN

Vegetarian fried rice

SERVES: 6

12 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, finely grated

2 leeks, white part only, thinly sliced

4 sticks celery, thinly sliced

250 g (2 cups) sliced green beans

155 g (1 cup) coarsely grated carrot

115 g (1 cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed (optional)

150 g (1 cup) sliced bamboo shoot (optional)

3–4 cups cold cooked white rice

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

65 g (1 cup) sliced spring onions

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20-30 minutes. Drain, reserving 125 ml (½ cup) of the soaking liquid, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Heat the peanut and sesame oils in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the ginger and garlic and cook for 30 seconds, then add the mushroom, leek, celery, beans and carrot and stir-fry over high heat for 3 minutes. Add the bean sprouts, if using, and bamboo shoot and stir-fry for 1 minute then add the rice and continue to stir-fry over high heat until well combined and heated through.

In a small bowl, mix together the reserved mushroom soaking liquid and soy sauce, and sprinkle evenly over the rice with the spring onion. Continue stirring to mix well together and season with salt, to taste. Serve hot.

WAI TZE GUEN

Miniature scallop rolls

MAKES: 20–24

3 dried shiitake mushrooms

185 g scallops, cleaned and chopped

6 water chestnuts, roughly chopped

2 spring onions, finely chopped

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

6 large spring roll wrappers

1 egg, lightly beaten

1½ tablespoons plain flour

peanut oil, for deep-frying

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, reserving 125 ml (½ cup) of the soaking liquid, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

In a bowl, mix together the mushroom, scallops, water chestnuts, spring onions, ginger, salt, soy sauce and sesame oil.

Cut each spring roll wrapper into quarters. Combine the egg and flour in a bowl and beat to a smooth, thick paste. Set aside.

Place a teaspoon of the scallop filling on each wrapper quarter, near one end. Fold the wrapper over the filling, fold in the sides and wrap up to enclose. Smear the end of the spring roll pastry with the flour paste and press gently to seal.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the rolls, in batches, for 1–2 minutes, or until golden brown all over. Drain on paper towel and serve hot.

JAR YUE HAR GUEN

Deep-fried fish and prawn rolls

MAKES: 12

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

12 raw prawns, peeled and deveined

1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon salt

plain flour

dry breadcrumbs, for coating

250 ml (1 cup) oil, for frying

soy sauce or chilli sauce, to serve

Depending on the size of the fish fillets, they may be cut into two, three or four strips — they should be thin as they need to be rolled around the prawns. Wrap each fish strip around a prawn and fasten with a wooden toothpick.

In a bowl, mix together the egg, ginger and salt. Put the flour and breadcrumbs in separate shallow bowls. Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Dip the fish rolls first into the flour, then into the egg mixture, shaking off any excess, and finally into the breadcrumbs, turning to coat. Gently lower into the hot oil and deep-fry, in batches, for about 3 minutes, or until golden all over. Drain on paper towel. Serve hot with soy sauce or chilli sauce for dipping.

DAI BAO

Dough for steamed buns

MAKES: 8–10 BUNS

375 g (2½ cups) plain flour

3½ teaspoons baking powder

60 g (¼ cup) caster sugar

2 tablespoons softened lard or butter

½ teaspoon white vinegar

sesame oil, for brushing

Sift the flour and baking powder into a bowl, then stir in the sugar and rub in the lard with your fingertips until evenly distributed. Combine the vinegar with 125 ml (½ cup) lukewarm water, then add to the flour mixture and knead to a soft dough. Shape into a ball, cover, and rest the dough for 30 minutes.

To mould the buns, divide the dough into eight even-sized portions and shape each into a smooth ball. Use a rolling pin to roll out on a lightly floured work surface to make circles with a 10 cm diameter, keeping the centre thicker than the edges. Cut small squares from a sheet of baking paper and brush each with a little sesame oil. Place a bun on each square of greased paper, then arrange in the top layer of a steamer.

Once you have prepared your filling, place a heaped teaspoon in the centre of each circle, gather the edges together, and fold and pleat to make a neat join, twisting to seal. Put each bun, join side down, in the steamer, cover, and steam for 20 minutes, or until well risen. Serve warm.

Note: Cooked buns can be refrigerated overnight and re-heated by steaming for 3 minutes or briefly microwaving for 30 seconds before serving.

CHA SHIU BAO

Barbecued pork buns

MAKES: 6–8 BUNS

2 teaspoons peanut oil

1 small garlic clove, crushed with ¼ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

½ teaspoon sesame oil, plus extra for brushing

1 teaspoon oyster sauce

3 teaspoons cornflour

1 teaspoon hoisin sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

small pinch red colouring powder (glossary) (optional)

185 g (1⅓ cups) diced barbecued pork

1 quantity bun dough (dai bao) (opposite)

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and cook until soft. Add the soy sauce, sesame oil, oyster sauce and 80 ml (⅓ cup) hot water.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste, then add to the wok, stirring until thick and clear. Remove from the heat, stir in the hoisin sauce, sugar and red colouring, if using. Allow to cool, then stir in the pork until well combine. Mould and steam the buns following the directions for steamed bun dough opposite.

MA YUNG BAO

Steamed sweet bean buns

MAKES: 10

These steamed buns are a snack rather than a dessert.

255 g tinned sweet bean paste (dow sah)

1 tablespoon sesame oil, for brushing

1 quantity bun dough (dai bao) (opposite)

Put a teaspoonful of bean paste in the centre of each circle and mould, then steam the buns following the directions for steamed bun dough opposite. Serve warm or at room temperature.

SO JAR HAR YUEN

Lotus flowers

MAKES: ABOUT 15

Crisp on the outside and melting soft inside, these ’lotus flowers’ are served as an appetiser at a Chinese meal or as a snack.

500 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and finely chopped

10 water chestnuts, finely chopped

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 egg white

1 teaspoon cornflour

oil, for deep-frying

In a bowl, mix together the prawn meat, water chestnuts, spring onion, ginger, salt and wine.

Beat the egg white until stiff, then fold through the cornflour and prawn mixture until combined. Take 1 tablespoon of the mixture at a time and roll into small balls.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the balls, in batches, for 2–3 minutes, or until golden. Drain on paper towel and serve immediately.

WOO DIP HAR

Butterfly prawns

MAKES: 12

12 large raw prawns, peeled and deveined, tails left intact

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry (optional)

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1 small garlic clove, crushed with ¼ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

60 g (½ cup) cornflour

1 large egg, beaten

dry breadcrumbs, for coating

peanut oil, for deep-frying

Chinese chilli sauce, to serve (optional)

Use a sharp knife to make a slit along the back of each prawn, being careful not to cut right through.

In a bowl, combine the wine, soy sauce, garlic and ginger. Add the prawns, toss to coat, then set aside to marinate for at least 15 minutes.

Put the cornflour, egg and breadcrumbs in separate shallow bowls. Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Dip the prawns first in the cornflour, then into the egg, shaking off any excess, and finally into the breadcrumbs, turning to coat. Gently lower into the hot oil and deep-fry, in batches, for 2–3 minutes, or until golden brown. Drain on paper towel and serve hot with the chilli sauce, if desired.

HAR KAU or KAU CHE

Prawns in translucent pastry

MAKES: ABOUT 20

Filling

185 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped ham or bacon fat

2 tablespoons finely chopped bamboo shoot

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 teaspoons cornflour

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

Pastry

150 g (1 cup) plain flour

60 g (½ cup) cornflour

1 tablespoon lard

sesame oil, for brushing

To make the filling, combine all of the ingredients in a large bowl, mixing well to combine. Set aside.

To make the pastry, mix together the flour and cornflour in a bowl. Put the lard and 250 ml (1 cup) water into a small saucepan, bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly then pour all but 2 tablespoons of the water onto the flour. Mix well and as soon as it is cool enough to handle knead to a smooth, pliable dough. Divide into two equal portions and mould each into a 12 cm log, with a 3 cm diameter. Wrap each log in plastic wrap to prevent the surface from drying out.

Working with one log at a time, cut into 1.5 cm slices and flatten with a lightly greased metal spatula. Roll out to make a thin circle with a 10 cm diameter. Put a teaspoonful of filling on each circle and fold over the pastry to make a half-moon shape, pinching the edge to seal. Brush the tops lightly with the sesame oil. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.

Cut 10 cm squares from a sheet of baking paper and brush with a little sesame oil. Place a pastry over each square and arrange in the top layer of a steamer basket. Steam for 12 minutes, or until translucent. Serve hot with sauces for dipping, if desired.

SO JAR GAI YUEN

Golden blossoms

MAKES: 12–15

250 g chicken breast, finely chopped

250 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and finely chopped

3 spring onions, thinly sliced ¾ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons cornflour

100 g (½ cup) corn kernels

2 tablespoons chopped barbecued pork (optional)

1 small garlic clove, crushed

Batter

110 g (¾ cup) plain flour

1 tablespoon cornflour

½ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons peanut oil

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger (optional)

1 egg white

oil, for deep-frying

To make the batter, sift the flour, cornflour and salt into a large bowl. Add 185 ml (¾ cup) water and beat to make a smooth batter. Stir in the peanut oil and ginger, allow to stand for 30 minutes. Just before using, beat the egg white until stiff and fold through.

To make the ‘golden blossoms’, combine all of the ingredients in a bowl. Take 1 tablespoon of the mixture at a time and roll into balls

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Working with one ball at a time, dip it into the batter, gently shaking off any excess and then gently lower the balls into the hot oil. Deep-fry, in batches, for 3–4 minutes, or until puffed and golden. Drain on paper towel and serve hot.

If not serving immediately, heat the oil again until very hot and re-fry the golden blossoms briefly to crisp and heat through just before serving.

SHIU MAI

Steamed prawn dumplings

MAKES: ABOUT 24

500 g small raw prawns, peeled and deveined

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

6 water chestnuts, chopped

3 tablespoons bamboo shoots, chopped

3 spring onions, chopped

250 g minced (ground) pork

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry (optional)

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 egg white

150 g (½ packet) won ton wrappers

Reserve about 24 prawns to use as a garnish and chop the remainder; set aside. Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

In a bowl, combine the chopped prawns, mushrooms, water chestnut, bamboo shoot, spring onion, pork, salt, soy sauce, wine, sesame oil and egg white.

Lay the won ton wrappers out on a clean work surface. Take 1 heaped teaspoon of the prawn mixture and place in the centre of each wrapper. Gather the wrapper around the filling and press it close to give the shape of a little money bag, open at the top. Press a prawn on top of each for decoration.

Lightly oil a steamer basket and arrange the dumplings in a single layer. Cover and steam for 20 minutes, or until cooked through. Serve hot or cold with a dipping sauce if liked.

WON TON

Small savoury dumplings

MAKES: ABOUT 40

Won tons are little squares of egg noodle dough enclosing a savoury meat mixture. They may be deep-fried and served as a crisp snack or they may be boiled in soup. Won tons are the main ingredient in ‘short soup’.

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

3 tablespoons finely chopped bamboo shoot

125 g raw prawn meat, finely chopped

4 spring onions, finely chopped

250 g minced (ground) pork

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

300 g (1 packet) won ton wrappers

peanut oil, for deep-frying

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Blanch the bamboo shoot in a saucepan of boiling water for 1 minute, then drain.

In a bowl, combine the mushroom, bamboo shoot, prawn meat, spring onion, pork, salt, soy sauce and sesame oil.

Lay the won ton wrappers out on a clean work surface. Take 1 heaped teaspoon of the prawn mixture and place in the centre of each wrapper. Moisten the edges of the dough with water, fold over to make a triangle with points crossing rather than lined up and press together firmly. Then bring the two ends together, dab with a little of the filling mixture where they join and press to seal.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Gently lower the won tons into the hot oil and deep-fry, in batches, for about 2 minutes, or until golden. Serve as an appetiser or as part of a meal with sweet sour sauce.

CHAI DIM SUM

Vegetarian dim sum

MAKES: ABOUT 36

300 g (2 cups) gluten flour

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

150 g (2 cups) shredded cabbage

75 g (½ cup) finely chopped bamboo shoot or water chestnuts

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 teaspoons sesame oil

3 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons cornflour

2 eggs, lightly beaten

300 g (1 packet) won ton wrappers

Put the gluten flour and water into a large mixing bowl and stir well, then knead until smooth. Set aside for 1 hour. Put 2 litres (8 cups) water into a saucepan and bring to the boil, then cut walnut-sized pieces of dough, drop into the water and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the dough rises to the surface. Drain well, allow to cool, then chop or mince finely. Set aside.

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the spring onion, garlic and ginger and cook for 2 minutes, then add the cabbage and stir-fry until soft. Add the bamboo shoot, mushroom, minced gluten dough and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes. Remove from the heat, put into a large bowl and add the soy sauce, sesame oil, salt, cornflour and enough beaten egg to bind the mixture together.

Take a won ton wrapper in the palm of your hand. Put a tablespoonful of mixture in the centre and gather up the pastry to enclose the filling. With the back of a teaspoon, press points of the dough down to cover. Squeeze the dumpling firmly to make the dough adhere to the filling. Put in an oiled steamer and steam for 10 minutes. Serve hot.

DOONG GWOO LAP CHEONG JING JU YOOK

Mushroom, pork and chicken sausage

SERVES: 8–10

8 dried shiitake mushrooms

500 g chicken breast fillets, diced

125 g barbecued pork, diced

100 g tinned bamboo shoot or water chestnuts, finely chopped

1 large garlic clove, crushed with 1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

3 teaspoons cornflour

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon Chinese barbecue (char siu) sauce

1 large length of sausage skin (see note)

Preheat the oven to 170°C (Gas 3). Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients, except the sausage skin, and mix well.

Using a funnel, push the chicken mixture into the sausage skin. Tie a knot in the skin about a metre from the beginning. When you have filled the skin, you will have a sausage, which you need to coil around and put on a wire rack. Prick the sausage with a very fine sharp skewer to prevent bursting. Put the rack over a roasting tray with 2 cm of hot water in it. Roast in the oven for 25 minutes, then turn and roast for a further 25 minutes, or until brown. Cut into short lengths to serve.

Note: When buying the sausage skin from your butcher, emphasise that you need the large one. (My butcher once gave me the small size by mistake, and you should have seen the fun I had getting the filling in!) The skin should be thoroughly cleaned and ready for use, but if liked, soak it in salted water at home while preparing the filling, then fit one end of it on the cold water tap and run water through it.

LAHNG POON

Cold hors d’oeuvre

SERVES: 6–8

If tinned abalone is unavailable, use frozen. Thaw partially and slice while still semi-frozen.

455 g tinned abalone, rinsed, drained and thinly sliced

2 dried Chinese sausages (lap cheong )

½ quantity braised mushrooms, thinly sliced

200 g barbecued pork, thinly sliced

1 cooked chicken breast fillet, thinly sliced

6 tea eggs, quartered

1 large cucumber, thinly sliced

1 daikon, thinly sliced

Marinade

80 ml (⅓ cup) light soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 tablespoon sesame oil

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

To make the marinade, combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and stir well to combine.

Put the abalone into the marinade and toss to coat, then set aside to marinate for 2 hours. (If using fresh abalone, cook briefly in a steamer for 5 minutes before marinating.)

Steam the sausages for 10 minutes, or until plump. Allow to cool and then thinly slice on the diagonal.

Drain the abalone and reserve the marinade.

To serve, arrange the ingredients on a large serving plate and serve the marinade in a small bowl as a dip.

POK PANG

Mandarin pancakes

MAKES: 20 PANCAKES TO SERVE 4–5

These delicate crepes are traditionally served with Peking duck, but are also used to enclose a variety of fillings such as egg foo yong, shredded pork or chicken. The filling is seasoned with a dab of rich-flavoured sauce, sprinkled with finely shredded spring onion, then rolled up and eaten as a snack.

300 g (2 cups) plain flour

185 ml (¾ cup) boiling water

1 tablespoon sesame oil

Put the flour into a large bowl and pour over the boiling water, stirring with chopsticks or the handle of a wooden spoon for a few minutes. As soon as it is cool enough to handle, knead for 10 minutes to make a smooth, soft dough. Put the dough on a chopping board, cover with a bowl, and stand for at least 30 minutes.

Roll the dough into a log and cut into 10 even-sized slices. Keep covered with plastic wrap to prevent drying out. Take one slice at a time and cut it into two equal pieces. Roll each to a smooth ball, then use a rolling pin to roll out on a lightly floured work surface to make circles with an 8 cm diameter. Brush one circle lightly with sesame oil, taking it right to the edge of the circle. Place a second circle on top of the first one and roll out again, to make one thin, larger circle with an 18 cm diameter. Cover with plastic wrap while rolling the remaining dough.

Heat a large heavy-based frying pan or griddle plate over low heat. Dry-fry the pancakes, one at a time, until small bubbles develop on the surface, then turn to cook on the other side — a few golden spots will appear.

Remove from the pan and gently pull the two circles apart — the sesame oil they were brushed with makes this quite easy. Pile the pancakes on a plate and cover tightly or they will dry out. Pancakes should be soft and pliable, not brittle. To serve, fold each pancake into quarters.

To re-heat, arrange the pancakes in a steamer lined with a clean tea towel, cover, and put over simmering water for 1–2 minutes until heated through.

CHA YIP DAHN

Tea eggs or marbled eggs

MAKES: 6

6 eggs

3 tablespoons black tea leaves

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon five-spice powder

Put the eggs and 1 litre (4 cups) water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring gently (this helps to centre the yolks). Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for 7 minutes. Cool the eggs under cold running water for 5 minutes. Lightly crack each egg shell by rolling on a hard surface — the shell should be cracked all over, but still intact (do not remove).

Put 1 litre (4 cups) water into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the tea leaves, salt and five-spice powder, then add the cracked eggs. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the shells turn brown. Remove from the heat and let the eggs stand in the covered pan for 30 minutes longer (or overnight if possible). Drain, cool and peel. The peeled eggs will have a marbled pattern on them. Cut into quarters and serve with a dipping sauce.

SO JAR FOR TUI GAI GUEN

Chicken and ham rolls

SERVES: 4–8

4 chicken breast fillets

1.5 cm thick slice ham

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon five-spice powder

1 small garlic clove, crushed

2 eggs, beaten

2 tablespoons plain flour

4 spring roll wrappers

oil, for deep-frying

Sauce

70 g (¼ cup) chopped mixed Chinese pickles, plus 125 ml (½ cup) syrup

1 tablespoon tomato sauce (ketchup)

2 tablespoons sugar

1–2 tablespoons white vinegar

¼ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons arrowroot

Put the chicken breast fillets between two sheets of baking paper and pound using a meat mallet until thin. Cut the ham into 1.5 cm strips, the same length as the chicken.

In a bowl, combine the salt, pepper, five-spice powder and the garlic and smear each piece of chicken with a mere trace of the mixture. Put a length of ham on each piece of chicken and roll up, covering the ham completely and moulding the chicken flesh to seal it in.

Season the egg with ½ teaspoon of the remaining spice mixture. Put the flour in a separate bowl. Lay out the spring roll wrappers. Working with one roll of chicken at a time, dip it first in the egg and then in the flour, to coat. Place diagonally on top of a spring roll wrapper, roll over twice, then fold in the ends to enclose the chicken. Brush the ends with a little beaten egg mixed to a thick paste with flour, and use to seal the ends of the rolls.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the rolls for 3–4 minutes each, turning them so they brown evenly. Drain on paper towel. Serve hot, with the sauce on the side.

To make the sauce, put the pickle syrup, tomato sauce, sugar, vinegar, salt and 125 ml (½ cup) water into a saucepan. Bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Combine the arrowroot and 1 tablespoon water to make a smooth paste then add to the pan with the pickles and bring to the boil, stirring until the sauce clears and thickens.

Note: For some people this dish wouldn’t seem authentic without the vivid red of the dipping sauce. If this is the case, use a pinch or a few drops of red food colouring instead of the tomato sauce.

YUE SHEUNG TONG

Basic fish stock

MAKES: 1 LITRE (4 CUPS)

750 g fish heads and trimmings or prawn heads and shells

10 whole black peppercorns

3 slices fresh ginger

1 carrot

2 sticks celery

1 large onion

2 fresh coriander leaves and stems

Wash the fish trimmings or prawn heads and shells. Put into a large saucepan with all of the remaining ingredients and 2 litres (8 cups) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1 hour. Strain the stock before using. This stock can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 4 months.

GAI SHEUNG TONG

Basic chicken stock

MAKES: 1 LITRE (4 CUPS)

2 kg chicken bones and trimmings

10 whole black peppercorns

2 small sticks celery with leaves

1 onion

3–4 fresh coriander leaves and stems

2 slices fresh ginger

salt, to taste

Put the chicken and all of the remaining ingredients into a large saucepan with 2 litres (8 cups) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 45–60 minutes, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Strain, discarding the solids, and use as directed. If the stock is fatty, chill until the fat congeals, lift off and discard. This stock can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 4 months.

JU YOOK SHEUNG TONG

Basic pork stock

MAKES: 1 LITRE (4 CUPS)

500 g pork bones

3 slices fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 onion or 2 spring onions

1 stick celery with leaves

1 carrot

3–4 fresh coriander leaves and stems

light soy sauce and salt, to taste

Put the pork bones and 2–2.5 litres (8–10 cups) water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Add the ginger, peppercorns, onion, celery, carrot and coriander, cover, and continue to simmer for 2 hours or longer. Add the soy sauce and salt, to taste, then remove from the heat and allow to cool. Strain, discarding the solids. Refrigerate the stock and when chilled remove the fat that congeals on the surface before using. This stock can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 4 months.

NGAU YOOK SHEUNG TONG

Basic beef stock

MAKES: 1 LITRE (4 CUPS)

1 kg soup (beef) bones

500 g stewing steak

1 onion

1 stick celery with leaves

1 whole star anise

4 fresh coriander or parsley sprigs

3 teaspoons salt

Put the bones and beef in a large saucepan with all of the remaining ingredients and 2 litres (8 cups) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 2 hours. Strain and allow to cool, then chill. Refrigerate the stock and when chilled remove the fat that congeals on the surface before using. This stock can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 4 months.

YUE TONG MIN

Fish soup with noodles

SERVES: 5–6

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1.5 litres (6 cups) fish stock

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets, cut into bit-sized pieces

90–135 g dried egg noodles, cooked or 500 g fresh egg noodles

a few drops of sesame oil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Heat the peanut oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for a few seconds. Add the fish stock and bring to the boil. Add the fish and boil for 5 minutes, then add the noodles and bring back to the boil. Stir in the sesame oil and serve immediately, garnished with the coriander.

JU YOOK HAR KAU DOONG SHUN TONG

Pork and prawn ball soup

SERVES: 6

Pork balls

500 g minced (ground) pork

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions

Prawn balls

500 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and finely chopped

¼ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon salt

1 slice soft white bread, crumbed

1 egg yolk

1 teaspoon cornflour

Soup

1.5 litres (6 cups) pork or chicken stock

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

3 tablespoons tinned bamboo shoots, sliced

3 teaspoons cornflour

½ teaspoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion, to garnish

To make the pork balls, combine all of the ingredients in a bowl. Take 1 tablespoon of the mixture at a time and roll into balls.

To make the prawn balls, combine all of the ingredients in a bowl. Take 1 tablespoon of the mixture at a time and roll into balls.

Drop the pork balls into the simmering stock and cook for 15 minutes. Return to simmering point, drop in the prawn balls and cook for a further 7 minutes. Remove pork and prawn balls, using a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add the wine and bamboo shoots to the simmering stock. Combine the cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water in a bowl to make a smooth paste, then add to the stock, stirring until the soup is clear and thickened. Stir in the sesame oil. Return the pork and prawn balls to the soup and serve, garnished with the spring onion.

WONG NGA BAHK TONG

Pale green soup

SERVES: 4–5

1 tablespoon peanut oil

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, crushed

1.25 litres (5 cups) hot chicken stock

185 g (1 cup) cold cooked white rice

750 g Chinese cabbage (wong bok), finely shredded

4 spring onions, thinly sliced, plus extra to garnish

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon sesame oil

Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the ginger and garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the hot stock and rice and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the rice is very soft. Add the cabbage and spring onion and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5–7 minutes — the spring onion will be bright green when they first come to the boil, then cook to a paler shade of green. At this point stir in the wine and sesame oil, and serve immediately, garnished with the extra spring onion.

GAY LIM SOOK MI GAI TONG

Chicken velvet and sweet corn soup

SERVES: 4–5

Chicken velvet is the name given to a purée made from chicken meat (usually breast meat) and egg white. This is minced or very finely chopped so it is smooth in texture. The delicate golden soup combines the purée with creamed corn.

1 large chicken breast fillet

½ teaspoon salt

2 egg whites, beaten until frothy

1.25 litres (5 cups) chicken stock

1½ tablespoons cornflour

250 g tinned creamed corn

1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

2 thin slices smoked ham or bacon, finely chopped

To make the chicken velvet, chop the chicken very finely until it is almost a paste. Place in a large bowl, add the salt and 2 tablespoons water and mix well to combine. Fold in the egg white to combine.

Put the chicken stock into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water in a small bowl to make a smooth paste and add to the pan with the corn. Bring back to the boil and cook until thickened, about 1 minute. Stir in the sesame oil, wine and the chicken velvet. Reduce the heat to low, stir well, and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Serve immediately, garnished with the ham.

CHANG DAU NGAU YOOK SEE TONG

Shredded beef and green pea soup

SERVES: 4–5

250 g lean beef

½ teaspoon salt

1 whole star anise

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

280 g (2 cups) frozen peas

2 teaspoons cornflour

2 eggs, lightly beaten

4 spring onions, thinly sliced, to garnish

Cut the beef into thin slices, then into shreds — thin slices are easier to achieve if the meat is partially frozen.

Put the beef, salt, star anise, ginger, wine and 1.25 litres (5 cups) water into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the peas, and cook for 5 minutes. Discard the star anise.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water to make a smooth paste and stir into the soup. When the soup boils, stop stirring, dribble in the egg and cook for a further 1 minute. Season with salt, if needed. Serve immediately, garnished with the spring onion.

JAHP WUI TONG MIN

Combination long soup

SERVES: 6

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

2 eggs, beaten

2 teaspoons sesame oil

250 g fine egg noodles

2 litres (8 cups) hot chicken stock

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 garlic clove, bruised

2 slices fresh ginger

250 g lean pork or chicken, finely chopped

225 g (3 cups) shredded Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

250 g (1 cup) tinned bamboo shoot, diced

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Season the egg with a little salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil in an omelette pan over low heat. Add half of the egg to make a thin omelette, folding once cooked. Repeat with the remaining egg. Thinly slice the omelettes and set aside.

Cook the noodles in a saucepan of boiling water until tender. Drain well. Put the stock into a large saucepan and bring to a simmer.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until brown, then remove with a slotted spoon. Add the pork to the flavoured oil and cook until it changes colour. Add the cabbage and bamboo shoot and stir-fry for 2 minutes.

Add the fried mixture and noodles to the simmering chicken stock and bring to the boil. Add the soy sauce, wine and salt, to taste. Stir in the remaining sesame oil and serve immediately, garnished with the omelette strips.

SZE CHUEN TONG

Sichuan soup

SERVES: 6–8

15 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon oil

125 g (½ cup) finely chopped barbecued pork

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

100 g (½ cup) chopped cooked prawns

80 g (½ cup) diced fresh tofu

1.5 litres (6 cups) chicken or pork stock

2 cups cellophane (bean starch) noodles, soaked in hot water for 20 minutes, then drained and cut into short lengths

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese sweet vinegar or other mild vinegar

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon chilli oil

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1½ tablespoons cornflour

1 tablespoon dried wood fungus, soaked in hot water for 10 minutes, then drained and finely chopped

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the mushroom and pork, stirring constantly, until they start to turn brown. Add the dark soy sauce, sugar and 60 ml (¼ cup) water, cover, and simmer until all the liquid is absorbed. Add the prawn meat and tofu and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the stock and noodles, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 3 minutes. Add the light soy sauce, vinegar, wine and chilli oil. Dribble the egg into the simmering soup, stirring constantly so that the egg sets into fine shreds. In a small bowl, mix the cornflour with 60 ml (¼ cup) cold water to make a smooth paste, then add to the soup away from the heat. Return to the heat and stir constantly until the soup thickens. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.

Put a spoonful of wood fungus in the bottom of each soup bowl and pour over the boiling soup. Serve immediately.

SUAN-LA TANG

Sichuan hot and sour soup

SERVES: 6

60 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

1.5 litres (6 cups) pork or chicken stock

1 cup finely chopped cooked pork or chicken, or mixture of both

1 tinned bamboo shoot, chopped

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon cornflour

1 egg, lightly beaten

1–2 tablespoons tomato sauce (ketchup)

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 tablespoon vinegar

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

a pinch of chilli powder (optional)

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, the drain well and cut into short lengths. Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Put the stock into a large saucepan with the noodles, mushroom, pork, bamboo shoot and ginger. Bring to the boil. In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 60 ml (¼ cup) cold water to make a smooth paste. Add to the simmering soup, stirring constantly until it boils and clears. Dribble the egg into the soup, stirring rapidly with chopsticks or a fork so that it sets in fine shreds.

Remove the soup from the heat, add the remaining ingredients and mix well to combine, Taste and adjust the seasoning as required — the taste should be quite sour and hot, but not overpoweringly so.

HAI YOOK DAHN GUNG

Crab and egg soup

SERVES: 5–6

I recall a Chinese restaurant in Colombo that specialised in this soup. Their chef made it with fresh crab and it was a soup to remember. But tinned or frozen crab meat may be substituted if fresh crab is difficult to obtain.

1.5 litres (6 cups) fish or chicken stock

4 eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons cornflour

350 g (2 cups) crab meat

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

Put the stock into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Dribble the egg into the soup, stirring rapidly with chopsticks or a fork so that it sets in fine shreds.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 80 ml (⅓ cup) water to make a smooth paste. Add it to the simmering stock, bring to the boil and stir constantly until it is clear and slightly thickened.

Add the crab meat and stir to combine and heat through. Serve immediately, garnished with the spring onion.

DAHN FAR TONG

Egg flower soup

SERVES: 4–5

This simple, nourishing soup can be made in a few minutes, using chicken stock. The beaten egg will set when poured into the boiling soup and look like chrysanthemum petals.

1 litre (4 cups) chicken stock

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon sesame oil

3 eggs, lightly beaten

3 tablespoons thinly sliced spring onion

Put the stock into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the wine and sesame oil. Taste and add salt, if needed.

Season the egg with salt. Dribble the egg into the soup, stirring rapidly with chopsticks or a fork so that it sets in fine shreds. Serve immediately, garnished with the spring onion.

CHOY YUEN HAR KAU CHOW MI FUN

Rice vermicelli with prawns and chinese cabbage

SERVES: 3–4

250 g rice vermicelli

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

125 ml (½ cup) fish or chicken stock

1 tablespoon peanut oil

250 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

6 leaves Chinese or mustard cabbage, thinly sliced

Soak the rice vermicelli according to the packet instructions.

In a bowl, mix together the garlic, ginger, wine, salt, soy sauce and stock until well combined.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the prawns and stir-fry until they change colour, then remove to a plate.

Add the cabbage to the wok and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the combined stock mixture and cook for a further 2 minutes. Add the rice vermicelli to the wok and toss until heated through, then return the prawns to the wok, toss and serve immediately.

YAU PAO YIU GOR YUE KOW

Quick boiled fish with fried cashews

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg whole snapper or other firm white fish

1 large onion, thinly sliced

2 sticks celery with leaves

1 large carrot, quartered

6 thin slices fresh ginger

125 ml (½ cup) Chinese wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

2 chicken stock (bouillon) cubes

For dressing fish

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

80 g (½ cup) cashews, toasted

125 g (½ cup) barbecued pork, diced

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

Clean and scale the fish, leaving the head on. To clean the cavity, wipe inside the fish cavity with damp paper towel that has first been dipped in coarse salt. Trim any long spines or fins neatly.

Pour enough water into a wok or large heavy-based frying pan to cover the fish, but don’t add the fish yet. Add all of the other ingredients and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and allow to simmer for 5 minutes, then bring to a fast boil and add the fish. After the water comes to the boil again, reduce the heat to low and poach the fish for 8–10 minutes, or until cooked through. Turn off the heat, carefully lift out the fish and allow any excess liquid to drain off, then put the fish on a serving platter.

To dress the fish, heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the cashews and stir until golden, then remove to a plate and reserve the oil. Add the pork to the wok and stir-fry until crisp. Pour off the fat that has collected in the wok, return 3 tablespoons of oil in which the cashews were fried and heat gently. Combine the soy sauce and sesame oil and spoon over the fish, then quickly pour over the hot oil. Garnish with the spring onion, pork and cashews before serving.

HO NAM JUM CHOA YUE

Boiled whole snapper, Honan-style

SERVES: 4

750 g whole snapper or other firm white fish

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

8 spring onions, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

Clean and scale the fish, leaving the head on. To clean the cavity, wipe inside the fish cavity with damp paper towel that has first been dipped in coarse salt. Trim any long spines or fins neatly.

Pour enough water into a wok or large heavy-based frying pan to cover the fish, but don’t add the fish yet. Add the salt and bring to the boil. Gently lower the fish into the wok, cover, then reduce the heat to low and poach for 5–7 minutes. Remove from the wok using a slotted spoon and drain well.

Heat the peanut oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the ginger and spring onion and cook until soft but not brown. Remove from the heat and stir in the sesame oil and soy sauce.

Arrange the fish on a serving dish, spoon the sauce over the top and serve immediately.

HUNG SHIU YUE HAR GUEN

Braised fish and prawn rolls

SERVES: 4–6

750 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

18 raw prawns, peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons peanut oil

3 thin slices fresh ginger

1½ tablespoons light soy sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon cornflour or arrowroot

1 spring onion, thinly sliced

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into 18 strips, each large enough to roll around a prawn. Place a prawn in the centre of each strip and roll up to enclose, securing each roll with a toothpick.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the ginger and cook until golden. Add the fish and prawn rolls and cook for 2 minutes, turning carefully halfway through. Add the soy sauce, wine, sugar and 185 ml (¾ cup) hot water to the wok, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes, or until done. Remove the fish rolls to a serving dish using a slotted spoon.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon water to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok with the spring onion, stirring until the sauce boils and thickens. Remove and discard the ginger, then pour the hot sauce over the fish. Serve with rice or noodles.

SZE CHUEN YAU JAR YUE

Deep-fried fish, sichuan-style

SERVES: 4

4 x 375 g whole firm white fish

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 teaspoons cornflour

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or sherry

1 teaspoon sugar

oil, for frying

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons Chinese chilli bean sauce

4 spring onions, thinly sliced

Clean and scale the fish, leaving the head on. To clean the cavity, wipe inside the fish cavity with damp paper towel that has first been dipped in coarse salt. Trim any long spines or fins neatly. With a sharp knife score vertical cuts along both sides, almost to the bone, to allow seasonings to penetrate.

In a bowl, combine the wine and light soy sauce, then pour over the fish, rubbing into the cuts. Set aside to marinate.

In a separate bowl, mix together the cornflour and 1 tablespoon water to make a smooth paste, then stir in the dark soy sauce, wine and sugar. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Drain any excess marinade from the fish. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the fish, in batches, for about 3–4 minutes on each side, or until dark brown. Drain on paper towel briefly, then arrange on a serving platter.

Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of oil from the wok and cook the ginger and garlic over medium heat until golden. Add the chilli bean sauce, cornflour mixture and 250 ml (1 cup) water and stir constantly until it comes to the boil, clears and thickens. Add the spring onion and stir to combine, then pour the hot sauce over the fish and serve immediately with white rice.

SUEN LAHT CHEUNG BOON YUE

Deep-fried fish with hot sour sauce

SERVES: 4

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 egg white, lightly beaten

oil, for frying

cornflour, for dusting

Sauce

140 g (½ cup) tinned Chinese mixed pickles, thinly sliced, plus 125 ml (½ cup) liquid

1 tablespoon sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon cornflour

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and thinly sliced

1 fresh green chilli, seeded and thinly sliced

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving portions (see preparing whole fish). Sprinkle over the salt and rub over the fresh ginger, then pour over the egg white and turn to coat both sides. Set aside while preparing the sauce.

To make the sauce, put the pickle liquid, sugar, salt and 125 ml (½ cup) water into a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Combine the cornflour and 60 ml (¼ cup) water in a separate bowl to make a smooth paste, then stir into the pan until thickened and clear. Stir in the pickles and chilli. Set aside and keep warm until ready to serve.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Toss the fish pieces in cornflour to coat then deep-fry the fish for 3–4 minutes, or until golden — do not overcook the fish or it will become dry. Drain on paper towel. Arrange the fish on a serving platter, pour the hot sauce over the top and serve immediately with rice.

HOI SEENJEUNG BOON YUE LAU

Fish fillets with hoisin sauce

SERVES: 3–4

375 g skinless, boneless, firm white fish fillets

2 tablespoons oil

1 garlic clove, bruised

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon hoisin sauce

2 tablespoons thinly sliced spring onion, to garnish

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving portions (see preparing whole fish).

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden, then remove the garlic with a slotted spoon and discard. Cook the fish in the flavoured oil one piece at a time, turning after a few seconds and moving to the side of the wok to make room for the next. When all the fish has been added to the wok, sprinkle with the soy sauce, cover, and simmer for 1 minute. Add the ginger and continue to simmer for a further 1 minute, then remove from the heat and stir in the hoisin sauce to combine. Arrange the fish on a serving platter, spoon over the sauce and garnish with the spring onion. Serve with white rice.

FUN YUE

Fragrant fried fish

SERVES: 6

A popular way of preparing fish, this dish can be prepared well in advance, which makes it perfect for entertaining. It should be served at room temperature.

1 kg skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

125 ml (½ cup) light soy sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

¼ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons vinegar

125 ml (½ cup) fish stock

2½ tablespoons sugar

oil, for frying

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving portions (see preparing whole fish).

Take 1 teaspoon each of the spring onion and ginger and put into a deep plate for marinating the fish. Mix in the five-spice powder, soy sauce, wine and salt, stirring to combine. Add the fish and toss gently to coat, then cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Just before starting to cook drain the fish well, pressing out any excess moisture and reserving the marinade. To the marinade, add the vinegar, stock and 2 teaspoons of the sugar.

Put 250 ml (1 cup) water and the remaining sugar into a saucepan and stir over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Simmer over low heat.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the fish, in batches, for about 1 minute, or until golden. Drain briefly on paper towel, then place into the pan with the simmering syrup and cook for about 1 minute. Remove the fish to a plate; discard the syrup.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of oil from the wok, add the reserved onion and ginger and stir-fry over medium heat for 1 minute. Add the fish pieces and toss gently. Add the reserved marinade mixture, bring to the boil, then remove from the heat. Arrange the fish on a serving plate, pour over the sauce and allow to cool to room temperature before serving.

GWOO LO YUE LAU

Crisp-skin fish with sweet sour sauce

SERVES: 3–4

750 g whole snapper or other firm white fish

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

oil, for frying

1 egg, lightly beaten

30 g (¼ cup) cornflour

Sweet sour sauce

1 carrot, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons frozen peas

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

60 ml (¼ cup) tomato sauce (ketchup)

2 tablespoons vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon cornflour

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 small onion, chopped

2 tablespoons preserved melon shreds, (optional)

Clean and scale the fish, leaving the head on. To clean the cavity, wipe inside the fish cavity with damp paper towel that has first been dipped in coarse salt. Trim any long spines or fins neatly. With a sharp knife score vertical cuts along both sides, almost to the bone. In a bowl, combine the salt and five-spice powder and rub over the fish, inside and out, rubbing into the cuts.

To make the sweet sour sauce, blanch the carrot and peas in a saucepan of salted boiling water, then drain well. In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, wine, tomato sauce, vinegar, sugar and 185 ml (¾ cup) water and stir until the sugar has dissolved. In a separate bowl, combine the cornflour and 60 ml (¼ cup) water and stir into the soy mixture.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger, carrot, peas and onion and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the sauce mixture, bring to the boil, then add the cornflour mixture and stir until thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the melon shreds, if using. Set aside and keep warm.

To cook the fish, heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Dip the fish first into the egg and then into the cornflour to coat, shaking off any excess. Gently lower the fish into the hot oil and deep-fry for about 4 minutes on each side, spooning the hot oil over while it cooks. Drain on paper towel and serve immediately with the sweet sour sauce in a bowl on the side.

CHING CHOW HO YAU HAR YAN

Stir-fried prawns with oyster sauce

SERVES: 3–4

2 tablespoons oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

250 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

125 ml (½ cup) fish stock or water

2 teaspoons cornflour

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until golden. Add the prawns and stir-fry until they turn pink. Add the oyster sauce, wine and stock and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer for 2 minutes. In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water to make a smooth paste then stir into the sauce until the liquid thickens and becomes clear. Serve at once with white rice.

Note: You can add vegetables to this dish if you like: stir-fry about 300 g (3 cups) chopped mixed vegetables after cooking the ginger and garlic. Remove them from the wok before adding the prawns and return to the wok to re-heat after the sauce has been made.

SAI LAN FAR CHOW HAR KAU

Coral and jade prawns

SERVES: 4

12–16 raw large prawns, peeled and deveined, tails left intact

300 g broccoli, broken into small florets with stems attached

1 tablespoon peanut oil

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

1½ teaspoons cornflour

1 tablespoon pickled ginger (beni shoga)

Using the point of a sharp knife, make a small slit through the prawn from its underside to the deveined upperside. Pass the end of one broccoli stem through the slit in the underside of the prawn so that the floret rests within the curve of the prawn.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the ginger and prawns threaded with broccoli and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the salt, wine and 80 ml (⅓ cup) water to the wok, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 3 minutes.

Push the prawns to one side of the wok. In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water to make a smooth paste, then add to the wok and continue stirring until the sauce thickens. Serve immediately, garnished with pickled ginger and accompanied by white rice.

GAI CHOY CHOW HAR KAU

Stir-fried prawns with mustard cabbage

SERVES: 3–4

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

250 g raw large prawns, peeled and deveined

1 head Chinese mustard cabbage, chopped

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

¼ teaspoon five-spice powder

½ teaspoon salt

1½ teaspoons cornflour

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the garlic, ginger, prawns and mustard cabbage and stir-fry for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Combine 1 tablespoon water with the soy sauce, then mix in the wine, five-spice powder and salt. Add to the wok, stir through to coat the prawns and cabbage, then cover and simmer for 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and stir until the sauce boils and thickens, about 1 minute. Serve immediately with rice or noodles.

Note: If buying frozen prawns that are already peeled 125 g will be sufficient for this dish.

HO LA N DAU CHOW DAI TZE

Scallops with snow peas

SERVES: 2–3

This delicate dish must not be overcooked, so have seasonings measured and cornflour mixed with water in readiness for adding and serve immediately.

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 leeks, white part only, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

250 g scallops, cleaned

125 g snow peas (mangetout), trimmed

2 teaspoons cornflour

1 teaspoon light soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the leek and ginger and cook for 1 minute. Add the scallops and stir-fry over high heat for 1 minute, then add the snow peas and stir-fry for a further 1 minute. Push the scallops and vegetables to one side of the pan.

In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 60 ml (¼ cup) cold water to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok with the soy sauce and stir until the sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Stir in the scallops and vegetables to coat, sprinkle with the salt and serve immediately.

SZE CHUEN CHOW HAR KAU

Sichuan prawns with dried chillies

SERVES: 6

I have made this recipe using equal quantities of prawns and cooked shelled crab (cracked into large pieces, not flaked crab meat), and it is delicious. If you do it this way, add the crab to the marinade with the prawns and cook for the same length of time.

500 g raw prawns, peeled and deveined

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons cornflour

½ egg white, lightly beaten

Seasonings and sauce

1 teaspoon cornflour

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

1½ teaspoons honey or sugar

1 teaspoon white vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

8–10 large dried red chillies, seeded

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon grated or chopped fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, crushed

Put the prawns into a bowl with 250 ml (1 cup) cold water and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Stir and leave for 2 minutes, then rinse and drain well.

In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add the egg white and the remaining salt and stir well, then add the prawns and toss to coat. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

To make the sauce, combine the cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water in a small bowl to make a smooth paste, then stir in the soy sauce, wine, honey, vinegar, salt and pepper. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the chillies and stir-fry for a few seconds, or until almost black. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.

Drain any excess marinade from the prawns, add the prawns to the wok and stir-fry for 20–30 seconds, or until they turn pink. Add the spring onion, ginger and garlic and stir-fry briefly. Add the cornflour mixture and stir constantly until the sauce boils and thickens. Turn off the heat, return the chillies to the wok, stir to mix and serve immediately with white rice.

Note: For a less hot result, discard the oil in which the chillies are fried and heat fresh oil before cooking the remaining ingredients.

SEE JIU CHOW LOONG HAR

Quick-fried lobster in hot bean sauce

SERVES: 6

500 g raw lobster tails

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

1 small green or red capsicum (pepper), seeded and chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1–2 tablespoons Chinese chilli bean sauce

125 ml (½ cup) chicken stock or water

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 egg, lightly beaten

2 teaspoons cornflour

a few drops of sesame oil (optional)

sliced spring onion, to garnish

Chop the lobster tails into sections and remove the shells.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the lobster and stir-fry for 1 minute or until just cooked. Remove to a plate. Add the capsicum and stir-fry for 1 minute, or until softened slightly, then remove to a plate.

Reduce the heat, add the garlic and ginger to the oil in the wok and stir-fry briefly, then add the chilli bean sauce and stir-fry for a few seconds. Add the salt, stock and wine and bring to the boil. Dribble the egg into the simmering sauce, stirring constantly so that the egg sets into fine shreds.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the simmering sauce and stir constantly until it thickens. Add the sesame oil, return the lobster and capsicum to the wok and stir to combine and heat through. Garnish with spring onion and serve with white rice.

CHOW LOONG HAR KAU

Stir-fried lobster with red sauce

SERVES: 2–3

250 g raw lobster tails

½ egg white

2 teaspoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons cornflour

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

Sauce

1 small garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

60 ml (¼ cup) tomato sauce (ketchup)

1 teaspoon chilli sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese vinegar or 2 teaspoons cider vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

2 teaspoons cornflour

70 g (½ cup) cooked peas (optional)

Chop the lobster tails into sections and remove the shells. Chop the lobster meat into bite-sized chunks. In a bowl, combine the egg white, wine, salt and cornflour. Add the lobster and leave to marinate for 20 minutes.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the lobster and cook for 2–3 minutes, turning to cook all sides. Remove to a plate.

To make the sauce, pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the oil in the wok. Cook the garlic and ginger over low heat until golden. Add the tomato sauce, chilli sauce, vinegar, sugar and 60 ml (¼ cup) water and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and continue stirring until the sauce thickens. Return the lobster to the wok, add the cooked peas and stir to combine and heat through. Serve immediately with rice.

HO YAU CHANG DAU DEW PIN

Squid with green peas in oyster sauce

SERVES: 6

Squid is one of the most subtle of sea foods and is best served with a light-flavoured vegetable. This dish combines it with tender young peas and a sauce that tastes of the sea.

500 g small squid

2 tablespoons peanut oil

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

210 g (1½ cups) frozen peas

125 ml (½ cup) fish or chicken stock

1 teaspoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

2 teaspoons cornflour

braised lettuce, to serve

Clean each squid, removing the ink sac and discarding the head. Separate the tentacles from the body. Discard the tentacles. Rinse under cold running water to remove the skin. Drain well and cut the body lengthways into pieces. Use a sharp knife to score the pieces in a criss-cross pattern.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the ginger and squid and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes, or until the squid is opaque. Remove to a plate.

Add the remaining peanut oil to the wok and toss the peas in it for a few seconds, then add the stock, soy sauce and oyster sauce and bring to the boil. In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water to make a smooth paste, then add to the wok and stir constantly until the sauce thickens. Return the squid and stir to combine and heat through. Serve immediately on a bed of braised lettuce.

SEE JUP GOOK HAI

Fried crab in black bean sauce

SERVES: 4

This is perhaps the most popular shellfish preparation in Chinese restaurants in Australia. To be enjoyed to the fullest the crab should be picked up in the fingers and eaten.

1.5 kg whole fresh crab

1 tablespoon tinned salted black beans, rinsed and drained

1 large garlic clove, crushed, plus 1 extra, halved

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

2 slices fresh ginger

2 teaspoons cornflour

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 egg, lightly beaten

Remove the large shell from the crab and discard the fibrous tissue under the shell. Divide the crab into four portions, breaking the body in half and separating the claws, leaving the legs attached. Crack the claws so the sauce can penetrate.

Mash the black beans in a bowl, then add the crushed garlic, soy sauce and sugar and stir well to combine.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the halved garlic and the ginger and cook until they start to brown, then remove with a slotted spoon and discard. Cook the crab in the flavoured oil, turning constantly for 4–5 minutes or until shells are bright red. Remove to a plate. Add the black bean paste and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add 170 ml (⅔ cup) hot water, return the crab to the wok, stir well, cover, and simmer for 3 minutes.

In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water to make a smooth paste, then add to the wok and continue stirring until the sauce boils and thickens. Add the spring onion and egg and stir until the egg sets. Serve immediately with white rice.

CHAN PEI FUN GAI

Smoked tangerine chicken

SERVES: 4–5

The subtle smokey anise and citrus notes of this dish are tantalising. Smoking in a pot is easily done without special equipment — all you need is some foil and a large heavy-based saucepan with a tight-fitting lid.

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

1.5 kg whole chicken

1 piece dried tangerine peel

1 whole star anise

3 tablespoons soft brown sugar

fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, salt, sugar and wine and rub inside and outside the chicken. Allow to marinate for about 20 minutes, then put in a steamer basket and steam over simmering water for 15 minutes.

Using a mortar and pestle, crush the tangerine peel and star anise as finely as possible and mix with the sugar.

Take a large heavy-based saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, large enough to hold the whole chicken. Line the base of the pan with foil, bringing it a little way up the side of the pan. Sprinkle the spice mixture evenly over the foil, then put a trivet or wire rack in the pan and set the chicken on it. Cover and cook over medium heat until smoke starts escaping from under the lid, then reduce the heat to low and smoke the chicken for 15 minutes or until cooked through.

This chicken dish can be served hot, at room temperature, or cold. Slice the flesh off the bones and arrange on a platter, or chop through the bones into small pieces. Garnish with the coriander.

CHU HAU JEUNG MUN GAI

Chicken with barbecued oysters

SERVES: 4–5

500 g chicken breast fillets, diced

2 teaspoons cornflour, plus 2 teaspoons extra

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

1 teaspoon salt oil, for frying

1 garlic clove, crushed

125 ml (½ cup) chicken stock

175 g tin oysters, drained

2 tablespoons Chinese barbecue (char siu) sauce

Toss the chicken in a bowl with the cornflour, five-spice powder and salt.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the garlic and cook for a few seconds, then add the chicken and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes, or until it starts to colour. Push the chicken to one side of the wok.

In a small bowl, combine the extra cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water to make a smooth paste. Add the stock to the wok, then add the cornflour mixture and stir constantly until the sauce boils and thickens. Add the oysters and barbecue sauce and toss to coat everything together until heated through. Serve with the rice.

LING MOONG GAI

Lemon chicken

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg whole chicken

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

finely grated zest of 1 large lemon

80 ml (⅓ cup) lemon juice

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 teaspoons shredded fresh ginger

1 teaspoon cornflour

2 tablespoons thinly sliced spring onion, to serve

lemon slices, to garnish

Cut the chicken into quarters, dry with paper towel and rub with 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, remaining soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil and 250 ml (1 cup) water, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the chicken, skin side down, and cook until brown, then turn to brown the other side. Add the ginger and continue to cook for 1 minute. Add the lemon juice mixture, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the chicken is tender but not falling off the bone. This can be prepared ahead up to this stage, transferred to a dish and left until required. Do not leave it in the metal wok or the acidity of the lemon juice will react with the metal and make the food taste odd.

At serving time, return the chicken and sauce to the wok and heat through. Remove the chicken to a plate, then cut the flesh into bite-sized pieces.

In a bowl, mix together the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the sauce and stir constantly until the sauce boils and thickens. Spoon the hot sauce over the chicken, garnish with the spring onion and lemon slices and serve with white rice.

HO YAU MUN GAI

Cold chicken in oyster sauce

SERVES: 4

500 g chicken breast fillets

3 sprigs celery leaves

1 small onion

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon five-spice powder

3 tablespoons thinly sliced spring onion

3 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons lightly toasted sesame seeds

Put the chicken, celery leaves and onion into a large saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the chicken to cool in the liquid. Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon once cool and thinly slice the meat. Arrange on a plate.

In a bowl, mix together the honey, oyster sauce, soy sauce, salt and five-spice powder, then spoon over the chicken. Cover and leave for 30 minutes for the flavours to develop. Before serving, sprinkle over the combined spring onion and ginger, then the sesame seeds.

Variation: To make cold lemon chicken with coriander, prepare the chicken as above; cool and slice as described. Instead of preparing the oyster sauce, combine 2 tablespoons Chinese lemon sauce and 1 tablespoon Chinese barbecue (char siu) sauce in a bowl. Spoon over the chicken and leave to marinate for 30 minutes. Arrange on a serving dish and serve garnished with 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves and stems and 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger.

SZE CHUEN JAR GAI

Fried sichuan chicken

SERVES: 6

500 g chicken breast fillets

85 g (⅔ cup) cornflour, plus 2 teaspoons extra

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon five-spice powder, plus

¼ teaspoon extra

125 ml (½ cup) chicken stock

2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

½ teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon vinegar

2 teaspoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

125 ml (½ cup) oil

15 large dried red chillies, seeded

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

4 spring onions, cut into short lengths

Cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces. Mix together the cornflour, salt and five-spice powder and toss to coat the chicken pieces in the mixture, then dust off any excess cornflour.

In a bowl, mix together the stock, sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, wine, the extra five-spice powder and pepper. In a separate bowl, combine the extra cornflour with 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the chicken, in batches, turning until brown all over. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Repeat until all of the chicken is cooked.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the wok and cook the chillies, garlic and ginger until the chillies turn dark. Add the spring onion and toss for a few seconds, then add the stock mixture and bring to the boil. Add the cornflour paste and stir constantly until the sauce boils and thickens. Add the chicken and toss to heat through. Serve immediately with rice.

HAI YOOK PAR GAI

Fried chicken with crab sauce

SERVES: 4–6

1 kg whole chicken

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons five-spice powder

3 tablespoons cornflour or chestnut flour

peanut oil, for deep-frying

Crab sauce

125 g (¾ cup) crab meat

2 tablespoons peanut oil

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

185 ml (¾ cup) chicken stock

1 egg white, lightly beaten

2½ teaspoons cornflour

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces. Sprinkle the combined salt and five-spice powder over the chicken and leave for 30 minutes.

To make the crab sauce, flake the crab meat, removing any bony tissue. Heat the peanut oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the ginger and spring onion and cook for 1 minute until soft. Add the stock, bring to the boil, then add the crab meat and season with freshly ground black pepper. Dribble the egg into the simmering sauce, stirring constantly so that it sets into fine shreds. Combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water in a bowl to make a smooth paste, then add to the sauce, stirring until the sauce is clear and thick. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

To prepare the chicken, mix together the cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water in a bowl to make a smooth paste. Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Dip the chicken into the cornflour paste, drain off any excess, then lower into the hot oil and deep-fry the chicken, in batches, until golden. Drain on paper towel. Arrange on a serving plate, pour the sauce over the top and serve immediately.

MUT JUP MUN GAI YIK

Honey-soy braised chicken wings

SERVES: 5–6

1 kg chicken wings

2 tablespoons peanut oil

80 ml (⅓ cup) dark soy sauce

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

Cut each chicken wing into three pieces and reserve the wing tips for stock. Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the chicken and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes, or until browned. Add the soy sauce, honey, wine, garlic and ginger and stir to coat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the chicken wings are tender. Towards the end of cooking, stir frequently and make sure the sweet glaze does not burn. Serve warm or at room temperature.

ZE GHEUNG MUN GAI

Braised ginger chicken with lily buds

SERVES: 4–6

Try to get hold of sichuan pepper — not really a pepper, but the berries of the prickly ash tree, known in Japan as sansho. If they are whole, remove the black seeds as they are very gritty. The effect of this spice is a tongue-tingling, mildly numbing sensation. If you can’t find any, substitute with black peppercorns.

1 kg whole chicken

20–30 dried lily buds

10 sichuan peppercorns, husks only (glossary)

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, crushed with a pinch of salt

80 ml (⅓ cup) Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 tablespoon honey

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

1 segment star anise

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Soak the lily buds in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain well. Pinch off the tough stem end and cut the buds into two or three pieces each.

Heat the sichuan pepper in a dry frying pan over low heat, then crush using a mortar and pestle.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the ginger and garlic and cook until pale golden. Add the chicken, increase the heat to medium and stir-fry until the chicken changes colour. Add the lily buds, sichuan pepper, wine, honey, soy sauce and star anise. Cover and simmer over low heat for 25 minutes, adding a little hot water towards the end of cooking to prevent the sauce sticking to the pan.

BUCK GING NGAP

Peking duck

SERVES: 6

One duck yields three separate dishes, for after the crisp skin is eaten with mandarin pancakes (this is the most important course and what is meant by ‘Peking duck’) the flesh is served separately and the bones used to make a rich soup. But of course the soup needs long simmering and cannot be served at the same meal. Having had a demonstration in Hong Kong of how to make and how to carve this famous dish I decided that, delicious though it is, it is too time-consuming to prepare often. But for those who, like me, are willing to try anything at least once, here’s the best method. Try to get a duck complete with head — not an easy task in these days of politely packaged frozen poultry devoid of all extremities; if you have access to a Chinese delicatessen, however, they may be purchased there. The vodka is not traditional, but it works!

2.5 kg duck

2 teaspoons salt

80 ml (⅓ cup) vodka

1 tablespoon honey

mandarin pancakes, to serve

spring onion, to serve

hoisin sauce, to serve

1 cucumber, peeled, seeds removed and thinly sliced lengthways

Wash the duck, drain well and dry thoroughly with paper towel, inside and out. Pick off any pin feathers or quills that remain. Rub the salt inside the body cavity and put the duck on a large plate. Spoon the vodka over and rub all over the duck. Leave for 4 hours, turning the bird from time to time so all the skin is in contact with the vodka.

In a bowl, stir to dissolve the honey in 750 ml (3 cups) hot water. Rub this mixture into the skin of the duck to coat. Truss the bird and tie a string around its neck, then hang the duck in front of an electric fan or, if the weather is cool enough, in a breezy place. Leave it to dry for at least 4 hours. (The Chinese chef inflated the skin of the bird, before hanging it, by blowing through a tiny hole in the skin of the duck’s neck just above where he would tie the string. He did it as effortlessly as if blowing up a child’s balloon, but it isn’t as easy as it looked.) If the duck has no head, tie a piece of kitchen string around the top of the neck.

Preheat the oven to 190°C (Gas 5). Put the duck on a rack in a roasting tin with hot water in it. The duck must be well above the water. Cook for 30 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 150°C (Gas 2) and continue roasting for 1 hour. Increase the heat to 190°C again and continue roasting until the skin is crisp and brown all over and the duck is tender. Remove from the oven and serve with accompaniments.

The duck is carved at the table, only the skin being cut away into thin pieces. These are put on a flat plate and presented ungarnished to guests. Each guest places a piece of skin on a pancake, dips a spring onion brush into hoisin sauce and brushes it over the pancake and duck, then wraps the spring onion and a few cucumber slivers into the pancake and eats it. The duck meat can also be carved and served on a separate plate for eating with the pancakes. Alternatively, the flesh of the duck is cut away from the bones in slivers, quickly stir-fried with spring onion, capsicum or fresh bean sprouts, and served as a separate course.

TZE BAO GAI

Chicken fried in paper

MAKES: ABOUT 24

Look for the Chinese rice paper for this one — translucent, parchment-looking squares of pressed cooked rice that melt in the mouth. You won’t be able to use Vietnamese rice paper (‘banh trang’), as it is too brittle when dry and once wet, it won’t get crisp if deep-fried.

500 g chicken breast fillets, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons oyster sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon shredded fresh ginger

4 spring onions, thinly sliced

24 snow peas (mangetout) or sugar snap peas (optional)

24 x 13 cm squares rice paper or baking paper

oil, for deep-frying

Put the chicken into a bowl with the soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil, wine, sugar and salt and toss to coat. Leave for 30–60 minutes before cooking.

Place a little of the filling just off centre on each square of rice paper — each piece of paper should contain a slice or two of chicken, one or two shreds of ginger, a slice or two of spring onion and, if liked, a snow pea. When the snow peas and sugar snap peas are out of season simply omit them — do not use another vegetable in their place.

Fold in the sides then roll up the parcel, tucking in the flap of the ‘envelope’ securely. Repeat with the remaining filling and rice paper squares.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the parcels, in batches, for about 1–2 minutes, or until golden brown. Drain on paper towel and serve immediately.

Note: When rice paper is used, chicken can be eaten envelope and all. If using baking paper, open at the table, lift the contents out and serve with your favourite sauce.

SHIU NG HEUNG GAI

Oven-roasted spiced chicken

SERVES: 6-8

This method of preparation is particularly suitable for chicken drumsticks, thighs or wings. If it is not possible to buy selected joints, a whole chicken can be used. See the variation at end of the recipe.

80 ml (⅓ cup) light soy sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 garlic cloves crushed with

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons five-spice powder

1.5 kg chicken thighs, wings or drumsticks

In a large shallow dish mix together the soy sauce, peanut oil, wine, garlic, ginger and five-spice powder. Add the chicken and toss to coat, then cover and leave to marinate for at least 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (Gas 4). Drain the chicken, reserving the marinade, and arrange the chicken in an even layer, skin side up, in a deep roasting tin. Spoon over about 2 tablespoons of the marinade to cover and roast in the oven for 45–60 minutes, or until the chicken is brown and crisp, basting every 20 minutes with the marinade. Serve hot or cold.

Variation: If you prefer to roast a whole chicken, choose one that is about 1.75 kg. Prepare the marinade as directed and rub the marinade over the chicken to coat, spooning some into the cavity as well. Marinate for 1 hour, then place in the roasting tin, breast side down, and cook for 1 ¾ hours, turning the chicken halfway through cooking so it browns all over and basting regularly. To serve, carve the chicken as for red-cooked chicken.

PEI PAR NGAP

Barbecue-style roast duck

SERVES: 4

1.75 kg whole duck

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon hoisin sauce

1 teaspoon sesame paste (glossary)

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Wash the duck well, then dry inside and out with paper towel. Preheat the oven to 180° C (Gas 4).

Combine all of the remaining ingredients in a small saucepan and stir over low heat until the honey melts and the mixture is smooth. Simmer for 2 minutes, adding a spoonful of water if it seems too thick. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, then rub the marinade all over the duck, inside and out. Reserve any remaining marinade to serve as a sauce. Leave to marinate for up to 1 hour.

Put the duck into an oven bag or wrap it in foil. If using an oven bag follow the manufacturer’s instructions and pierce a few holes in the bag for steam to escape. Sit the duck, breast side down, in a deep roasting tin and cook for 45 minutes. Turn the duck and cook for a further 45–60 minutes, or until browned all over. Carve the duck into pieces and serve hot with the reserved marinade, mandarin pancakes, spring onion and plum or hoisin sauce.

HEUNG SO NGAP

Steamed and deep-fried duck

SERVES 4

2 kg duck

1½ teaspoons salt

¼ teaspoon ground sichuan peppercorns (glossary)

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

2–3 teaspoons cornflour

oil, for deep-frying

spring onion or fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

Wash the duck well, then dry inside and out with paper towel.

In a bowl, combine the salt, sichuan pepper, soy sauce, wine and five-spice powder. Rub all over the duck, inside and out. Leave to marinate for at least 1 hour.

Place the duck on a steamer rack and steam over a pan of simmering water for 1¼–1½ hours, or until tender. Remove the duck from the steamer rack and sprinkle over the cornflour to coat.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the duck, spooning the oil over if it is not immersed so that it cooks evenly. Turn duck when underside is done and fry the other side in the same manner until the skin is crisp. Drain on paper towel and chop the duck into bite-sized pieces. Garnish with the spring onion and serve hot with plain white rice.

SEE YO GAI

Red-cooked chicken

SERVES: 4–5

‘Red cooking’ is the term applied to cooking in dark soy sauce. The liquid that remains after cooking is called a ‘master sauce’, and can be frozen or refrigerated for future use. The sauce should then be used to cook meat or poultry at least once a week to keep it ‘alive’. Cook chicken drumsticks this way for taking on picnics or serving at buffet parties.

1.75 kg whole chicken

375 ml (1½ cups) dark soy sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh ginger

1 garlic clove

1 whole star anise

1½ tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons sesame oil

Choose a saucepan into which the chicken will fit snugly — it needs to be covered in as much of the soy liquid as possible. Put the chicken into the pan, breast side down, then add all of the remaining ingredients, except the sesame oil. Add 375 ml (1½ cups) water and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes. Turn the chicken over, cover, and simmer for a further 20 minutes, basting the breast every 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave covered in the saucepan until cool.

Lift the chicken out of the sauce, place on a serving platter and brush with sesame oil – this gives the chicken a glistening appearance as well as extra flavour. Traditionally, red-cooked chicken is put on a chopping board and cut in half lengthways with a sharp cleaver. Each half is chopped into 3.5 cm strips and reassembled in its original shape. Serve at room temperature with some of the cooking liquid as a dipping sauce.

BAW LAW GAI

Chicken with pineapple

SERVES: 4–6

This dish provides interesting flavour contrasts between the sweet tang of pineapple and the stinging bite of sichuan pepper.

½ teaspoon ground sichuan peppercorns (husks only) (glossary) or black pepper

1 tablespoon cornflour

½ teaspoon salt

250 g chicken breast fillets, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1 small garlic clove, crushed

1 tablespoon peanut oil

½ small ripe pineapple, chopped, or 425 g (2⅔ cups) tinned unsweetened pineapple, drained

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

Sauce

125 ml (½ cup) pineapple juice

2 teaspoons cornflour

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

Use a mortar and pestle to grind the sichuan pepper, then pass through a fine sieve, discarding the seeds. In a bowl, combine the cornflour, salt and sichuan pepper, then add the chicken and mix well to coat. Add the soy sauce, sesame oil and garlic and mix well.

To make the sauce, combine the pineapple juice and cornflour in a bowl and stir until smooth. Stir in the soy sauce. Set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the chicken and stir-fry until it changes colour. Add the pineapple, reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 3 minutes. Add the sauce and stir until thickened, then add the spring onion and toss to combine. Garnish with the coriander leaves and serve with rice or noodles.

LUT TZE-MUN NGAP

Braised duck with chestnuts

SERVES: 6

125 g dried chestnuts

2 kg whole duck

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

125 ml (½ cup) peanut oil

3 tablespoons red tofu (dow foo) (glossary)

2 teaspoons sugar

4 spring onions, cut into short lengths

Put the dried chestnuts in a bowl, pour over enough boiling water to cover and soak for 30 minutes. Drain well, pour over fresh boiling water and soak again for a further 30 minutes. Drain well.

Wash the duck, drain well and dry thoroughly with paper towel, inside and out. Pick off any pin feathers or quills that remain.

In a bowl, combine the garlic, ginger, soy sauce and wine and rub all over the duck, inside and out. Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and brown the duck all over, turning often. Remove to a plate and pour off the oil, leaving only 1 tablespoon. Return the duck to the wok, add the tofu mashed with the sugar. Pour in enough hot water to come halfway up the duck, then add the chestnuts and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 1¼–1½ hours, turning during cooking, or until the duck is tender — you may need to add more boiling water if the sauce reduces too much — it should coat the back of a spoon. Lift the duck onto a wooden chopping board and cut into pieces with a sharp cleaver, Chinese-style. Arrange the duck on a serving dish, spoon the chestnuts and sauce over and garnish with the spring onion.

Note: Chinese yam or even the humble potato can be used to replace the dried chestnuts. In either case, peel and cut into cubes, then add to the simmering sauce 30 minutes before the duck is cooked.

SZE CHUEN SHIU NGAP

Sichuan roast duck

SERVES: 4–5

3 kg whole duck

3 teaspoons salt

3 teaspoons whole black peppercorns or sichuan peppercorns (husks only) (glossary)

1 whole fresh coriander plant, including leaves and stem

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

4 spring onions, chopped

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

½ teaspoon red food colouring (optional)

Wash the duck, drain well and dry thoroughly with paper towel, inside and out. Pick off any pin feathers or quills that remain. Rub all over with the salt.

Roast the pepper in a dry frying pan for a few minutes, then crush coarsely using a mortar and pestle. If using sichuan pepper, strain through a sieve to remove the seeds. Chop the coriander leaves and stem, reserving the well-washed root.

In a bowl, combine the coriander leaves and stem, ginger, spring onion, five-spice powder, honey, wine, sesame oil, soy sauce and red food colouring, if using. Rub the mixture inside and outside the duck to coat. Put the coriander root inside the cavity. Cover with plastic wrap or foil and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (Gas 4). Half-fill a roasting tin with hot water and put a rack in the tin; the water should not reach the rack. Put the duck on the rack, breast side up, and cook for 30 minutes. Cover with foil and continue cooking for another 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 150°C (Gas 2), turn the duck over, put foil over it and roast for a further 30 minutes. Turn the duck breast side up once more and continue cooking for 30 minutes, then remove the foil and allow the duck to brown for 15–20 minutes. Carve the duck and serve with mandarin pancakes, plum sauce and spring onions cut into short lengths.

SEEN GOO GAI LAU TO YAN

Chicken and walnuts with straw mushrooms

SERVES: 4

3 teaspoons cornflour, plus 1 teaspoon extra

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

500 g chicken breast fillets, diced

oil, for deep-frying

115 g (1 cup) walnuts or blanched almonds

6 spring onions, cut into short lengths

430 g tinned straw mushrooms, drained and halved

1 tinned bamboo shoot, diced

125 ml (½ cup) chicken stock

1 teaspoon light soy sauce

In a bowl, combine the cornflour, salt and five-spice powder. Add the chicken and toss well to coat.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the walnuts briefly until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Deep-fry the chicken, in batches, for 1 minute, or until it changes colour. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the wok. Add the spring onion, straw mushroom and bamboo shoot and stir-fry over high heat for 1 minute. Add the stock and stir to combine. In a bowl, combine the extra cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok with the soy sauce and stir until the sauce boils and thickens. Return the chicken to the wok and heat through. Turn off the heat, stir in the nuts and serve immediately with rice or noodles.

SAI LAN FAR GAI PIN HAR KAU

Chicken and prawns with broccoli

SERVES: 4–6

500 g chicken breast fillets, thinly sliced

375 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and halved lengthways

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

½ teaspoon salt

60 g (1 cup) broccoli florets

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

2 tablespoons chicken stock or water

1 teaspoon arrowroot or cornflour

In a bowl, combine the chicken, prawns, five-spice powder and salt and toss well to coat.

Blanch the broccoli florets in a saucepan of boiling water for 3 minutes, then refresh immediately in cold water, drain and set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds, then add the chicken and prawns and stir-fry until the chicken turns white and the prawns turn pink. Add the soy sauce, wine and stock and allow to simmer for 2 minutes.

In a bowl, combine the arrowroot with 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and stir until the sauce boils and thickens. Add the broccoli and toss gently to mix and heat through. Serve hot with rice.

JING NG FAR NAM

Steamed five-flowered pork

SERVES: 6

Fragrant with spice, this delicious pork dish is so rich that it must be eaten with plenty of white rice. It is a meal best suited to cold weather.

80 ml (⅓ cup) dark soy sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon five-spice powder (optional)

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 kg lean pork belly, skin removed and cut into large cubes

110 g (½ cup) short-grain rice

In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, wine, five-spice powder, if using, and garlic. Add the pork and toss to coat, then set aside for at least 1 hour.

Put the uncooked rice in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium–low heat and stir constantly for about 15 minutes, or until the grains are golden. Transfer to a food processor and process to a fine powder.

Add the pork to the rice powder to coat each piece, then arrange in a heatproof dish. Place the dish over a saucepan of boiling water, cover, and steam the pork for 2 hours, or until it is so tender it falls apart. Serve hot, with white rice.

CHA SHIU

Barbecued pork

SERVES: 4–6

3 garlic cloves, crushed with 1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

500 g lean pork belly slices, skin removed

Preheat the oven to 220°C (Gas 7). In a bowl, combine the garlic, ginger, soy sauce, honey, wine and five-spice powder. Add the pork and toss to coat. Leave to marinate for at least 15 minutes.

Half-fill a roasting tin with hot water and put a wire rack in the tin. Place the pork on the rack and cook for 30 minutes. Turn the pork strips over, brush with the remaining marinade and cook for a further 15 minutes, or until well glazed and starting to caramelize. Cut in slices to serve. Serve immediately with plum sauce or hoisin sauce, for dipping.

GWOO LO YOOK

Crisp-fried pork with sweet sour sauce

SERVES: 4–6

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

500 g pork fillet, loin or shoulder, trimmed of fat and cut into bite-sized cubes

150 g (1 cup) plain flour

1 tablespoon peanut oil, plus extra, for deep-frying

1 egg white

Sweet sour sauce

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry (optional)

60 ml (¼ cup) tomato sauce (ketchup)

2 tablespoons white vinegar

2 tablespoons white sugar

1 tablespoon cornflour

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 small onion, cut into large chunks

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

80 g (¼ cup) sliced water chestnuts

1 red capsicum (pepper), seeded and diced

3 tablespoons frozen green peas

2 tablespoons preserved melon shreds (optional)

In a bowl, mix together the soy sauce, wine, salt, pepper and five-spice powder. Add the pork, toss to coat, and then cover and refrigerate until needed.

In a separate bowl, combine the flour and 185 ml (¾ cup) lukewarm water to make a smooth batter. Stir in the peanut oil and set aside for 30 minutes. Beat the egg white until stiff, then fold into the batter.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Dip the pork in the batter to coat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the pork, in batches, until golden. Drain on paper towel and set aside, reserving the oil in the wok.

To make the sweet sour sauce, combine the soy sauce, wine, tomato sauce, vinegar, sugar and 185 ml (¾ cup) water in a bowl and stir until the sugar has dissolved. In a separate bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste.

Heat the peanut oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, water chestnuts, capsicum and peas and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the soy sauce mixture, bring to the boil, then add the cornflour paste and stir constantly until the sauce boils and thickens. Remove from the heat and stir in the melon shreds, if using. Keep warm.

Just before serving, re-heat the reserved oil in the wok over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry the pork again for just a few seconds to make the batter very crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. To serve, arrange on a plate, pour the sweet sour sauce over and serve immediately.

LUT GEE HOONG SHIU JU YOOK

Braised pork with chestnuts

SERVES: 4–6

2 garlic cloves, crushed with 1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or brandy

750 g lean pork belly, skin removed and diced

125 g dried chestnuts

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 teaspoons cornflour

2 tablespoons thinly sliced spring onion, to garnish

In a bowl, combine the garlic, soy sauce and wine. Add the pork and leave to marinate for 1 hour.

Put the chestnuts in a separate bowl and pour over enough boiling water to cover. Leave to soak for 30 minutes. Drain, then pour over more fresh boiling water and soak for a further 30 minutes. Drain well.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the pork and stir-fry for 3 minutes, or until brown. Add the chestnuts and stir well, then add 625 ml (2½ cups) hot water, cover, and simmer for 35–40 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water to make a smooth paste. Push the pork and chestnuts to one side of the wok, then add the cornflour mixture and stir constantly until the sauce boils and thickens — you should have about 1 cup of sauce in the wok, if not, add water to make up this amount. Garnish with the spring onion and serve with rice.

CHOW YOOK PIN

Twice-cooked pork

SERVES: 3–4

A rich dish suitable for winter eating, this dish originally comes from northern China.

250 g boiled pork loin

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

1 large or 2 small green capsicums (peppers), seeded and cut into bite-sized pieces

a pinch of salt

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 tablespoon Chinese chilli bean sauce

1 tablespoon hoisin sauce

Cut the pork into very thin slices — the fat is important in this dish, so do not remove it. In a bowl, mix together the soy sauce and sugar. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the capsicum, sprinkle with a little salt and deep-fry for a few seconds until the capsicum is coated with oil and turns a brilliant green. Remove from the wok using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.

Drain all but 2 tablespoons of oil from the wok and stir-fry the pork over medium heat for 1 minute, then add the garlic and ginger and continue to stir-fry until the pork is nicely brown. Add the spring onion, capsicum, wine, soy sauce mixture and chilli bean and hoisin sauces, and stir well to combine and heat through. Serve hot with white rice.

JU YOOK MA TAI CHOW HAHM SUEN CHOY

Sliced pork and water chestnut roll with sweet and sour vegetables

SERVES: 8

500 g minced (ground) pork

175 g (1 cup) chopped water chestnuts

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon cornflour

3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion

½ teaspoon five-spice powder (optional)

1 egg, beaten

oil, for deep-frying

fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

Batter

75 g (¼ cup) plain flour

2 teaspoons oil

Sweet and sour vegetables

440 g tin pineapple pieces, drained and 185 ml (¼ cup) syrup reserved

100 g chow chow preserves, drained, chopped and 2 tablespoons syrup reserved

60 ml (¼ cup) white vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar

red food colouring (optional)

¾ teaspoon salt

10 spring onions, cut into short lengths

1 carrot, cut into thin matchsticks

2 tablespoons sliced water chestnuts

1 tablespoon arrowroot

In a bowl, combine the minced pork with the water chestnuts, garlic, salt, cornflour, spring onion, five-spice powder and egg. Mix thoroughly, then divide the mixture into three even-sized portions and form each portion into a roll, about 17 cm long. Place on a lightly oiled heatproof plate in a steamer, cover, and steam for 20–25 minutes. Cool completely and chill for a short while, if possible, to firm up.

Meanwhile, make the batter. Put the flour, oil and 185 ml (¾ cup) water into a bowl and beat until smooth. Leave to stand for 30 minutes.

To make the sweet and sour vegetables, put the pineapple syrup and chow chow syrup into a saucepan with the vinegar, and sugar and stir well to combine. Bring to the boil and add a pinch of red food colouring, if using — it should be a bright, clear flamingo pink, not deep red. Add the salt, pineapple pieces, spring onion, carrot and water chestnuts, and bring back to the boil. In a small bowl, combine the arrowroot and 1 tablespoon cold water to make a smooth paste, then add to the pan and stir constantly until boiling and thick. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Cut the rolls into 2 cm slices. Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Working with a few slices at a time, dip them into the batter, then gently lower into the hot oil and deep-fry, in batches, until golden. Drain on paper towel, then arrange on a serving platter. Pour over the sweet and sour vegetables and garnish with the coriander.

NGAU YOOK JU YOOK YIN

Beef and pork balls with rice coating

SERVES: 4–6

There are two names for this recipe — one is pearl balls and the other porcupine balls, because the rice grains stick out like the quills of a porcupine.

220 g (1 cup) short-grain rice

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

250 g lean minced (ground) beef

250 g minced (ground) pork

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 teaspoons salt

1 egg, lightly beaten

¼ cup finely chopped water chestnuts

Put the rice in a bowl with enough cold water to cover and leave to soak for at least 2 hours, then drain well. Spread out on a tray lined with paper towel and leave to dry while preparing the meatballs.

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. Put into a large bowl with all the remaining ingredients and use your hands to combine everything together evenly.

Take portions of the mixture at a time and roll into balls with a 2.5 cm diameter, rolling them between your palms. Roll each ball separately in the rice, making sure you press just hard enough for the rice to stick and make an even coat all over.

Lightly oil a bamboo steamer basket and arrange the balls in the base, leaving space between each so the rice can swell as it steams. Steam over boiling water for about 30–35 minutes, or until the rice swells and the balls are covered in pearly grains — you may need to add more boiling water during this time. Serve immediately.

NG HEUNG NGAU YOOK SZEE

Shredded five-spice beef

SERVES: 4–6

500 g tender beef rump or fillet

1 garlic clove, crushed with 1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

½ teaspoon five-spice powder

2 teaspoons cornflour

2 tablespoons peanut oil

Partially freeze the beef and slice it very thinly, then continue slicing into shreds.

In a bowl, combine the garlic, ginger and soy sauce. Add the shredded beef and toss to coat. Sprinkle over the combined five-spice powder and cornflour and toss to combine.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the beef and stir-fry until it changes colour. Add 1 tablespoon water, stir well and bring to the boil; continue boiling until the liquid has thickened. Serve immediately with rice or noodles.

Note: You can add vegetables to this dish if desired. Use 500 g vegetables — try a combination of Chinese cabbage, green beans, broccoli, onion, cauliflower or celery. If using green beans, cauliflower or broccoli, blanch them first in boiling water for 2 minutes and drain before adding to the dish, but other vegetables can be added raw and stir-fried for 2 minutes.

SEE JUP NGAU YOOK

Beef in black bean sauce

SERVES: 4–6

500 g lean rump or fillet steak

1½ tablespoons tinned salted black beans, rinsed and drained

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) water or stock

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon cornflour

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 teaspoon sesame oil (optional)

2 garlic cloves, crushed

Trim any fat from the beef, then freeze the beef for 1 hour or just until firm enough to cut into paper-thin slices.

Use a fork to mash the black beans in a bowl, then add the soy sauce, water and sugar. In a separate bowl, combine the cornflour and 2 teaspoons cold water to make a smooth paste. Set aside.

Heat the peanut oil and sesame oil, if using, in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the beef and stir-fry until it changes colour. Add the garlic and toss for a few seconds, then add the bean mixture and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Add the cornflour paste and stir constantly until the sauce is clear and thick. Serve immediately with white rice.

LIN NGAU CHOW NGAU YOOK

Beef with lotus root

SERVES: 3–4

250 g lean rump or fillet steak

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon five-spice powder

2 tablespoons peanut oil

125 ml (½ cup) beef stock or water

1 tablespoon cornflour

12 slices frozen lotus root

Trim any fat from the beef, then freeze the beef for 1 hour or just until firm enough to cut into paper-thin slices.

In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, salt, garlic, ginger and five-spice powder. Add the beef and toss to coat.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the beef and stir-fry until the colour changes.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water, stirring to make a smooth paste. Add the stock to the wok, then add the cornflour paste and stir constantly until the sauce boils and thickens. Add the lotus root and stir to combine and heat through. Serve with white rice.

HO LAN DAU CHOW NGAU YOOK

Beef with snow peas

SERVES: 4–6

500 g lean rump or fillet steak

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

250 g snow peas (mangetout)

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

4 spring onions, cut into short lengths

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon sugar

125 ml (½ cup) beef stock

3 teaspoons cornflour

Partially freeze the beef and slice it very thinly, then continue slicing into shreds. Place in a bowl with the soy sauce and salt, toss to coat and leave to marinate for at least 30 minutes.

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. Set aside.

Blanch the snow peas in a saucepan of boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the beef and stir-fry until it changes colour. Remove to a plate.

Heat the remaining oil in a clean wok over high heat. Add the mushroom and the spring onion and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the wine, sugar and stock and bring to the boil.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and stir constantly until the sauce clears and thickens. Return the beef to the wok, add the snow peas and toss to combine and heat through. Serve immediately with rice or noodles.

SEE YO NGAU YOOK

Red-cooked beef

SERVES 4–6

Here is how to use an economy cut of beef to make a superbly spiced, really special dish. Cooked in a master sauce, it makes a silk purse out of a sow’s ear! Serve hot, or let it cool in the sauce, slice thinly and serve cold.

1.5 kg beef shin in one piece

375 ml (1½ cups) dark soy sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) Chinese wine or dry sherry

6 large slices fresh ginger

2 whole garlic cloves, peeled

2 whole star anise

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon sesame oil

Put the beef in a saucepan just large enough to hold it. Add all the remaining ingredients and 750 ml (3 cups) water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 3 hours, turning the beef once or twice, so that it cooks evenly and is very tender. Test by piercing with a skewer, which should penetrate easily. Uncover the pan and cook for a further 15 minutes, spooning the sauce over the beef regularly.

You can either slice the beef and serve hot or allow the beef to cool in the sauce, turning it over after an hour. Chill until serving time, then cut into thin slices. Arrange overlapping slices as part of a selection of cold starters.

Note: You can reserve the cooking liquid, known as a master stock, freezing it for future use. A spoonful added to a dish in place of stock will give a rich, delicious flavour.

SEEN LO SHUN CHOW NGAU YOOK

Stir-fried beef with fresh asparagus

SERVES: 4–6

375 g lean rump or fillet steak

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

1 garlic clove, crushed with

½ teaspoon salt

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

12 asparagus spears, sliced on the diagonal, separating spears and tips

2 onions, chopped

2 teaspoons Chinese ground bean sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) water or beef stock

1 teaspoon cornflour

Trim any fat from the beef, then freeze the beef for 1 hour or just until firm enough to cut into paper-thin slices.

In a bowl, combine the soy sauce and garlic. Add the beef and toss to coat. Set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the meat and stir-fry until it changes colour. Remove to a plate.

Heat the remaining oil in a clean wok over high heat. Add the asparagus spears and stir-fry for 3 minutes, then add the onion and stir-fry for a further 1 minute. Add the bean sauce and water, and stir to combine, then add the asparagus tips. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer until the asparagus is tender but not mushy.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Push the vegetables to one side of the wok and add the cornflour paste, stirring constantly until the sauce boils and thickens. Return the beef to the wok and stir gently to combine and heat through. Serve immediately with white rice.

DOONG GWOO CHOW NGAU YOOK

Stir-fried beef with onions and mushrooms

SERVES: 4

250 g lean rump or fillet steak

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

¼ teaspoon five-spice powder

½ teaspoon salt

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

2 onions, chopped

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

60 ml (¼ cup) water or beef stock

2 teaspoons cornflour

2 tablespoons thinly sliced spring onion, to garnish

Trim any fat from the beef, then freeze the beef for 1 hour or just until firm enough to cut into paper-thin slices.

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine the five-spice powder, salt, garlic and ginger. Add the beef and toss to coat.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the mushroom and onion and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes, then add the beef and stir-fry until it changes colour. Add the soy sauce, sugar and water and bring to the boil.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and stir constantly until the sauce thickens. Serve immediately, garnished with the spring onion.

YOOK NUP FUN SEE

Cellophane noodles with pork

SERVES: 4–6

125 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon salt

185 ml (¼ cup) light stock or water

1 teaspoon cornflour

60 ml (¼ cup) oil

185 g pork fillet, diced

4 spring onions, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons Chinese ground bean sauce

1 large fresh red chilli, seeded and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves

Soak the noodles in boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain and cut into short lengths. Set aside.

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine the wine, soy sauce, salt, stock and cornflour. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the pork and mushroom and stir-fry until the pork is cooked and brown. Add the spring onion and ginger, stir-fry for a few seconds, then add the bean sauce and chilli and cook over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, or until well combined and cooked through.

Add the soy sauce mixture and stir to combine. Bring to the boil, then add the noodles, reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring until all the liquid has reduced. Stir in the coriander leaves and serve immediately.

Note: In Sichuan tradition, this dish is seasoned with hot bean sauce. If this is not available substitute it with 2 tablespoons rinsed and drained salted yellow beans. Mash them in a bowl and stir in 2 teaspoons Chinese chilli sauce before adding to the dish.

NGAU YOOK DAU KOK CHOW MI FUN

Rice vermicelli with beef and long beans

SERVES: 4–5

375 g lean rump or fillet steak

250 g rice vermicelli

1 tablespoon peanut oil

375 g snake (yard-long) beans, cut into 5 cm lengths

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

250 ml (1 cup) beef stock

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

chilli oil, to serve (optional)

Trim any fat from the beef, then freeze the beef for 1 hour or just until firm enough to cut into paper-thin slices.

Soak the vermicelli in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the beans and stir-fry for 2 minutes, then remove to a plate.

Add the garlic, ginger and beef to the wok and stir-fry until the beef changes colour. Add the stock, salt, soy sauce and rice vermicelli and toss until heated through. Cover and cook over low heat for 3 minutes, then return the beans to the wok, toss to combine and heat through, then serve immediately with the chilli oil, if using, passed separately.

CHU HAU JEUNG MUN WAN YEE

Cloud ears in hoisin sauce

SERVES: 4

10 g (½ cup) dried wood fungus

2 teaspoons hoisin sauce

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 teaspoons peanut oil

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 small garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon cornflour

Wash the wood fungus, then drain and place in a bowl with enough hot water to cover and leave to soak for 1 hour. The wood fungus will swell to many times its original size. Rinse well and cut off any thick or gritty parts, then chop any large pieces.

In a bowl, mix together the hoisin sauce and soy sauce.

Heat the peanut and sesame oils in a wok or large heavybased frying pan over low heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry for 30 seconds, then add the combined sauces, 60 ml (¼ cup) water and the wood fungus and bring to the boil. In a small bowl combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and stir until the sauce thickens. Serve immediately with rice or noodles.

HUNG SHIU DOONG GWOO

Braised mushrooms

SERVES; 6–8

125 g dried shiitake mushrooms

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon sesame oil

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

Soak the mushrooms in 1 litre (4 cups) hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well, reserving the soaking liquid. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems.

In a bowl, combine 325 ml (1½ cups) of the reserved soaking liquid with the soy sauce, sugar and sesame oil, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes, turning and pressing both sides until brown on both sides. Add the sauce mixture and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring towards the end of the cooking time, until all the liquid is absorbed and the mushrooms take on a shiny appearance. Serve hot or cold.

Note: Braised mushrooms can also be added to other dishes, either whole or sliced.

LO HAN CHAI

Braised vegetable combination

SERVES: 6

125 g dried bean curd or dried soy bean protein (glossary)

12 dried shiitake mushrooms

30 dried lily buds

2 tablespoons dried wood fungus

60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

3 sections star anise

1 tinned bamboo shoot, thinly sliced

1 frozen lotus root, thinly sliced

90 g ginkgo nuts or water chestnuts (optional)

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons sugar

2 teaspoons cornflour

Soak the dried bean curd in cold water for 20 minutes. Drain, then place in a bowl, pour boiling water over and leave to soak for 20 minutes. Drain well. Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well, reserving 375 ml (1½ cups) of the soaking liquid. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems. Soak the lily buds in hot water 30 minutes, drain, pinch off tough stem ends and cut into halves. Soak the wood fungus in hot water for 10 minutes, drain and cut into bite-sized pieces, discarding any gritty or thick bits.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the bean curd, mushrooms and lily buds and stir-fry for 4 minutes, then add the combined soy and hoisin sauces and some of the reserved soaking liquid. Add the star anise, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the bamboo shoot, lotus root, ginkgo nuts, sesame oil and sugar, stir well, cover and simmer for a further 10 minutes, adding more soaking liquid if needed. In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water to make a smooth paste and add to the wok, stirring until the sauce thickens. Push the vegetables to the side of the wok and add the wood fungus, allowing it to heat through. Serve hot with rice.

CHU HAU JEUNG MUN DAU FU

Tofu in barbecue sauce

SERVES: 4–6

2 tablespoons oil

530 g firm tofu, drained

2 tablespoons Chinese barbecue (char siu) sauce

185 ml (¾ cup) light stock or water

155 g (1 cup) cooked peas or thinly sliced spring onion

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the tofu and cook for 3–4 minutes, turning once. Mix the barbecue sauce and stock together, then add to the wok and simmer for 3 minutes. Add the peas and heat through. Serve with boiled rice or noodles.

HAI YOOK PAR DAU FU

Tofu with crab sauce

SERVES: 4

2 tablespoons peanut oil

6 spring onions, sliced

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

185 ml (¾ cup) chicken or fish stock

155 g (¾ cup) crab meat

2½ teaspoons cornflour

530 g firm tofu, drained and cut into quarters

Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the spring onion and ginger and cook until the ginger and onion are soft. Add the stock, cover, and simmer for 3–4 minutes, then add the crab meat and heat through.

In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the pan, season with freshly ground black pepper, and stir until the sauce boils and thickens. Add the tofu and heat through until the sauce almost returns to the boil — do not overcook. Serve immediately with rice.

JIING YEUNG BUCK GWOO

Steamed mushrooms with pork filling

MAKES: ABOUT 24

250 g fresh button mushrooms

250 g minced (ground) pork

6 water chestnuts, finely chopped

1 tablespoon cornflour, plus 1 teaspoon extra

1 tablespoon light soy sauce ¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon sugar

sesame oil

fresh coriander leaves, to garnish

Wipe the mushrooms with damp paper towel, then carefully remove and discard the stems, leaving the caps intact.

In a bowl, combine the pork, water chestnuts, cornflour, soy sauce, salt, ginger and sugar. Put a teaspoonful of the mixture into each mushroom cap, pressing it firmly to create a slight mound shape.

Lightly grease a heatproof dish with a little sesame oil and arrange the mushrooms in the base. Cover with foil, and steam the mushrooms over simmering water for 25–30 minutes. Remove the mushrooms to a serving dish. If the mushrooms are being served as appetisers, save the flavoursome liquid in the base of the dish for adding to soups or sauces. If the mushrooms are to be eaten as part of a meal, thicken the liquid slightly by adding more stock or water to make 185 ml (¾ cup); bring to the boil in a small saucepan.

In a small bowl, combine the extra cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the stock and stir until the sauce boils and thickens. Pour the sauce over the warm mushrooms and serve with white rice.

PAR SAY SAW

Mixed braised vegetables

SERVES: 4–6

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 large garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

750 g sliced vegetables

125 ml (½ cup) hot water or light stock

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons cornflour

Heat the peanut and sesame oils in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the garlic, ginger and vegetables and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the hot water, then the combined oyster and soy sauces and salt. Cover and simmer for 4 minutes. In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Push the vegetables to one side of the wok and add the cornflour paste, stirring until the sauce thickens. Toss the vegetables to coat and serve immediately with white rice.

CHOW DAU KOK

Quick-fried long beans

SERVES: 4

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

500 g snake (yard-long) beans, trimmed and cut into 5 cm lengths

1 teaspoon sesame oil

½ teaspoon salt

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the garlic, ginger and beans and stir-fry for 2 minutes, or until the beans are tender but still crunchy. Stir in the sesame oil and salt and serve immediately.

CHOW SAHNG CHOY

Braised lettuce

SERVES: 2–4

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 small garlic clove, crushed

¼ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 large firm head of iceberg lettuce, leaves separated and chopped

2 tablespoons light stock or water

1 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

1 teaspoon cornflour

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the garlic, ginger and lettuce and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the stock, sugar, soy sauce and a pinch of salt. In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Push the lettuce to one side of the wok and add the cornflour paste, stirring until the sauce boils and thickens. Toss to coat the lettuce in the sauce and serve immediately.

JUN JU SHUN HO LAN DAU CHANG GWA

Corn and snow peas with cucumber

SERVES: 4

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 teaspoon sesame oil

½ teaspoon crushed garlic

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

440 g tin baby corn, rinsed and drained

250 g snow peas (mangetout), trimmed

1 cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced

Heat the peanut and sesame oils in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 30 seconds, then add the corn and snow peas and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the cucumber and stir-fry a further 2 minutes, or until translucent. Serve immediately.

HUNG SHIU SAY SAW

Heavenly braised vegetables

SERVES: 4

12 dried shiitake mushrooms

3 tablespoons dried wood fungus

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

240 g tin bamboo shoots, rinsed, drained and thinly sliced

425 g tin whole baby corn, rinsed and drained

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain well, reserving 500 ml (2 cups) of the soaking liquid. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems and thinly slice the caps. Soak the wood fungus in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain and halve, removing any thick or gritty bits.

Heat the peanut and sesame oils in a wok or large heavybased frying pan over medium heat. Add the mushroom and stir-fry for 5 minutes, or until brown. Add the bamboo shoots, corn, soy sauce, sugar and reserved soaking liquid. Cover and simmer over low heat for 20–30 minutes. Add the wood fungus and heat through. Serve immediately with rice.

SEE JUP YEUNG FU GWA

Stuffed bitter melon in black bean sauce

SERVES: 2–3

2 bitter melons (gourds)

375 g skinless, boneless bream fillet, chopped

125 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and chopped

¾ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon egg white

1 teaspoon cornflour

80 ml (⅓ cup) peanut oil

Sauce

2 tablespoons tinned salted black beans, rinsed and drained

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon sugar

125 ml (½ cup) light stock or water

1½ teaspoons cornflour

Trim the bitter melons and cut into 4 cm thick slices. With a small sharp knife, remove the spongy centre, leaving small tubular shells of melon.

In a bowl, mix together the fish, prawn meat, salt, ginger, egg white and cornflour. Spoon this mixture into the melon shells, rounding the filling slightly on one end.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the melon, round side down, and cook for 8 minutes, or until the filling just starts to brown. Turn over and cook the other side. Remove to a plate once cooked, reserving the oil in the wok for making the sauce.

To make the sauce, mash the black beans with a fork and mix together with the garlic. Add to the reserved oil in the wok and cook over medium heat, stirring well. Add the sugar and stock and bring to the boil. Return the melon to the wok, round side up, cover and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes. Remove the melon to a serving plate.

In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and stir until the sauce boils and thickens. Pour over the stuffed bitter melon and serve immediately with white rice.

JAHP SIK CHOY

Chinese salad

SERVES: 4–6

Salads are rare in Chinese cuisine, but they do exist. Here is a delicious combination that may be served as a vegetable accompaniment or as a main dish.

½ head Chinese cabbage (wong bok), finely shredded

550 g tin winter bamboo shoots, drained and thinly sliced (see note)

500 g (4⅓ cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

2 cups peeled fresh lychees or use tinned (optional)

2 tablespoons lightly toasted sesame seeds

Dressing

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, crushed

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

80 ml (⅓ cup) sweet Chinese vinegar or other mild vinegar

125 ml (½ cup) peanut oil

2 tablespoons sesame oil

Put the cabbage in a large serving bowl and arrange the winter bamboo shoots and bean sprouts on top. Pile the lychees in the centre, if using, and sprinkle over the sesame seeds. Cover with plastic wrap and chill until serving time.

To make the dressing, combine all of the ingredients in a bowl. Just before serving, pour over the salad and toss to combine. Serve immediately.

Note: Winter bamboo shoots are smaller, whiter and much more tender than ordinary bamboo shoots. If they are not available use the larger variety but after slicing, bring to the boil in lightly salted water, simmer for 8 minutes, then drain and cool.

SEE YAU GHUNG JEUNG

Ginger soy sauce

MAKES: ½ CUP

Serve with fried or stir-fried seafood or steamed dumplings.

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

125 ml (½ cup) light soy sauce

In a bowl, combine the ginger and soy sauce. The sauce can be prepared in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

SEE YAU LAHT JIU JEUNG

Chilli-soy sauce

MAKES: ½ CUP

This sauce is best served with fried prawns, dim sum or hot or cold appetisers.

2 tablespoons Chinese chilli sauce

125 ml (½ cup) soy sauce

In a bowl, combine the chilli sauce and soy sauce. The sauce can be prepared in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator indefinitely.

DAU SEE SHEUNG JING JEUNG

Black bean sherry sauce

MAKES: ½ CUP

This sauce is subtle enough to be served with delicate seafood dishes, such as crab and scallops.

1 tablespoon tinned salted black beans, rinsed and drained

60 ml (¼ cup) Chinese wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon sugar

a few drops of sesame oil

Use a fork to mash the black beans in a bowl to make a chunky paste, then stir to combine with the wine, sugar and just enough sesame oil to make a runny sauce.

TIM SUEN JEUNG

Sweet sour sauce

MAKES: 1 CUP

Serve with hot appetisers or fried won tons.

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry (optional)

60 ml (¼ cup) tomato sauce (ketchup)

2 tablespoons white vinegar

2 tablespoons white sugar

1 tablespoon cornflour

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

¼ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 small onion, cut into large chunks and layers separated

1 teaspoon Chinese chilli sauce (optional)

In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, wine, tomato sauce, vinegar, sugar and 185 ml (¾ cup) water, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.

In a separate bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Set aside.

Heat the peanut oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger and onion and cook for 1 minute. Add the soy sauce mixture, bring to the boil, then add the cornflour paste and stir constantly until the sauce boils and thickens. Remove from the heat and stir in the chilli sauce, if using. Serve warm.

SUEN TAU DAU SEE

Black bean garlic sauce

MAKES: ½ CUP

Serve this sauce with rich meats, such as pork or duck.

2 tablespoons tinned salted black beans, rinsed and drained

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry

Use a fork to mash the black beans in a bowl to make a chunky paste, then stir in the remaining ingredients until well combined.

TIM SUEN JEUNG

Sweet sour pickle sauce

MAKES: ABOUT 500 ML (2 CUPS)

This tangy sauce is ideal to serve with deep-fried meats or vegetables.

140 g (½ cup) tinned Chinese pickles, reserving 80 ml (⅓ cup) liquid

80 g (½ cup) tinned pineapple pieces, reserving 80 ml (⅓ cup) syrup

80 ml (⅓ cup) white vinegar

a pinch of red food colouring powder (glossary) (optional)

2 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1 small garlic clove, crushed

3 teaspoons cornflour

Cut the pickles into pieces, then place in a bowl with the pineapple pieces and set aside.

Put the reserved liquid from both the pickles and pineapple into a small enamel saucepan with the vinegar, red colouring powder, if using, the sugar, salt and garlic. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the pickle and pineapple pieces and return to the boil briefly. In a bowl, combine the cornflour and 2 tablespoons cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the pan and stir constantly until the sauce has thickened and is clear.

SOO MUI JEUNG, SHIU HAU IEUNG

Plum and barbecue sauce

This sauce is excellent served with roast duck or barbecued pork dishes.

125 ml (½ cup) plum sauce

125 ml (½ cup) Chinese barbecue (char siu) sauce

½ teaspoon ginger juice, extracted from fresh ginger

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1 teaspoon Chinese chilli sauce, to taste (optional)

Put all of the ingredients in a bowl and stir well to combine. The sauce can be prepared in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator indefinitely.

WAH YIM

Salt and five-spice mix

Rather than a sauce, this spiced salt combination can be sprinkled over crisp fried chicken, roasted duck or pork.

2 tablespoons salt

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

In a bowl, mix together the salt and five-spice powder until well combined. Serve in a small bowl and let guests sprinkle over their meal as desired.

GOO YUET FUN YIM

Roasted pepper and salt mix

2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns

3 teaspoons salt

Heat the peppercorns in a dry frying pan over medium heat for 4–5 minutes, shaking the pan or stirring, until the peppercorns are aromatic. Remove from the pan, allow to cool slightly, then pound using a mortar and pestle and stir in the salt. Store in an airtight container.

JAR WON TON

Deep-fried sweet won tons

MAKES: ABOUT 50

250 g (1½ cups) pitted dates, finely chopped

40 g (¼ cup) chopped walnuts, cashews or almonds

finely grated zest of 1 large lemon

1 tablespoon orange juice

300 g (1 packet) won ton wrappers

peanut oil, for deep-frying

icing sugar, for dusting

In a bowl, combine the dates, walnuts, lemon zest and orange juice and mix thoroughly, adding more orange juice if the mixture is too dry — it needs to hold together and this will depend on the quality of the dates. Form the date mixture into small cylinders, about 5 cm long, with a 2 cm diameter.

Lay the won ton wrappers out on a clean work surface and place a date cylinder over each, positioning it closer to one corner. Starting from the filled end, roll up each wrapper to enclose the filling and twist the ends to seal. Repeat until all of the won ton wrappers and filling are used.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Gently lower the won tons into the hot oil and deep-fry, in batches, for about 2 minutes, turning once, until they are golden brown all over. Remove the won tons using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Allow to cool and dust with icing sugar before serving.

Note: You can make these won tons using tinned lotus nut filling instead of the dates and nuts.

HUNG YUN DAU FU

Almond bean curd

SERVES: 6–8

This lightly sweetened milk dessert is so named because of its resemblance to bean curd.

1 tablespoon agar-agar powder

395 g tin sweetened condensed milk

2 teaspoons natural almond extract

Put 1 litre (4 cups) water into a saucepan and sprinkle over the agar-agar powder, then bring to the boil, stirring until the agar-agar has dissolved. Add the condensed milk and almond extract and stir well to combine. Pour the mixture into a large shallow glass dish. Allow to cool, then refrigerate for about 30 minutes to set. Cut into cubes or diamond shapes and serve by itself or with tinned fruit or melon balls.

DOONG FONG SIK GOW LAHM

Oriental fruit basket

SERVES: 8–10

1 watermelon

550 g tin lychees, rinsed and drained, reserving the syrup

4 mandarins, broken into segments, white pith removed

500 g longans or loquats, peeled and seeded

200 g bottled chow chow preserves, drained and diced (optional)

Cut off the top third of the watermelon and use a melon-baller to scoop out the melon flesh in neat balls. Combine the melon balls in a bowl with the lychees, mandarin segments and longans. Stir in just enough lychee syrup to coat the fruit, then cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours.

Use a knife to scallop the edge of the watermelon shell. Before serving, arrange the fruit in the watermelon shell and spoon some of the remaining syrup over the top. If liked, you can serve with the chow chow preserves, which will add extra texture and flavour.

KOREA

I thought I knew about fine slicing and shredding, having cooked Chinese food for years, but until I was taught how to make some Korean specialities I had no idea just how finely food should be shredded for traditional Korean dishes, such as guchulpan (or Nine Varieties). Strips of beef, vegetables and omelette are cut incredibly fine and are uniform in thickness and length.

As part of a guchulpan meal, small pancakes are piled in the centre of a tray (preferably a compartmented tray), surrounded by a selection of ingredients for filling the pancakes, each one shredded finely, stir-fried with a little oil, and seasoned with salt and pepper; where it will not s spoil the colour, a little soy sauce is added during cooking. The ingredients are picked up with chopsticks and put in the centre of a pancake, which is rolled around the filling, dipped in a special sauce and eaten.

Guchulpan is usually served as a prelude to a meal or as something to nibble with i fou part drinks. I have found it can be a complete dinner — but one of those informal occasions where guests participate more than usual because they become involved in choosing their own fillings, and test their skill at completing the whole operation using chopsticks. Because guchulpan is served at room temperature, it is ideal for advance preparation.

Bean paste is a staple of Korean cooking. The nearest equivalent would be Chinese bean paste or Japanese aka miso (fermented soy bean paste), but the Korean version, dhwen-jang, has more flavour. According to Koreans it has more nutritional value too. A very salty chilli paste, known as gochujang, has a surprisingly mellow flavour, while silgochu, thread-fine strips of dried red chilli, are also widely used in Korean cooking.

It is traditional for soy bean pastes and sauces to be made in the spring, and most people make them at home. Equally important is the autumnal pickle-making season when jars of kimkimc chi, the famous Korean pickle based on baechu (variously known as Korean cabbage, Chinese cabbage and celery cabbage) are put down in readiness for winter and the year ahead. Daikon and cabbage are the favourite vegetables for pickling and large quantities are made, for kim chi appears on the table at every meal, even breakfast.

In Korea, rice is also served at every meal. At breakfast it is sometimes served as gruel, especially for elderly people and children. At other meals steamed rice, cooked by the absorption method, is accompanied by soup, meat, fish, vegetables and, of course, kim chi. Rice is of such importance im that meals are described as consisting of rice and panch’an, a term that takes in whatever else is served with the rice.

Sometimes the rice is combined with other grains such as barley and beans. Among t ar su the beans used are dried lima beans, adzuki beans (small red beans) and soy beans, or soy bean products such as tofu, bean pastes and soy sauce.

Korea has an abundance of fish and other seafood, and often the fish is combined in surprising ways with meat or poultry (see Sin Sul Lo). Like the Japanese, Koreans use seaweed, especially the dried seaweed known as kim in Korea and nori in Japan. It is used as a relish. In order to give it a delicious flavour it should be liberally brushed with sesame oil and sprinkled with salt on one side; the thin sheet is passed back and forth over a hotplate or open flame until it becomes crisp, then it is cut into small squares and served with steamed rice. Rice is wrapped in the seaweed by each diner and rolled up with chopsticks. Beef is the most popular meat in Korea. Pork and chicken are also used, but mutton (or lamb) never. Beef is not usually cooked in one big piece. It is very thinly sliced and cut into bite-sized pieces; sometimes the slices are beaten out for extra thinness. The beef is then kneaded well with a marinade and left for 2–4 hours to tenderise it and give it flavour.

While Koreans charcoal grill or broil such meals as bulgogi or bulgalbi, everyday cooking includes boiling, steaming, stir-frying and deep- or shallow-frying; baking is not one of their cooking methods.

The seven basic flavours of Korean food are garlic, ginger, black pepper, spring onion, soy sauce, sesame oil and toasted sesame seeds. The sesame seeds are crushed before being added to marinades or mixed with cooked dishes, releasing their full flavour — and it is amazing what a difference the toasting makes to the flavour of sesame. Thus, the Middle Eastern tahini (sesame seed paste), made with untoasted sesame seeds, seems to have no relationship to the sauces of Korea, which are made after the seed has been toasted, giving them a rich nutty flavour.

KOREAN MARINADE

This quantity is sufficient for marinating 500 g beef, pork, chicken and most other meats.

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon finely chopped spring onion

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1–2 teaspoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons honey or sugar

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and stir well until the sugar has dissolved. Add the meat and leave to marinate for 2–4 hours at room temperature before cooking.

SERVING A KOREAN MEAL

Silver chopsticks and spoons are used for Korean meals because silver discolours in the presence of poison, so they are considered the safe way to eat. A formal dinner setting will also have silver bowls for rice and soup. Expensive, but the silverware is usually part of a bride’s dowry. Everyday settings are of brass or china. Nowadays stainless steel is more popular than brass because it does not need the polishing that brass does. The spoon is for taking from communal dishes and for serving rice. Soup is also eaten with a spoon, not with lips to the raised bowl, as in Japan.

The food is served and eaten from bowls, not plates. Everything is put on the table at once – hot dishes to the right of the table with the exception of rice which, along with cold dishes, is to the left. The spread of dishes at a typical Korean meal might include rice, soup, fish, chicken, beef, hot sauces, sweet and sour sauces, vegetables prepared in several ways and kim chi of various kinds. There are numerous varieties of kimchi, some prepared with the addition of dried shrimp or salt fish, and elaborate versions including rare fruits and vegetables. Some are very pungent while others are quite mild.

The meal does not generally end with dessert. Sweets are a treat reserved for special occasions such as holidays and festivals. These might take the form of tteok — rice cakes filled with sweetened fillings that might include adzuki beans, chestnuts, jujube (a dried red date), sesame seeds, pine nuts and honey. There is also confectionery made from wheat flour, sesame oil and honey, and waffle-like pastries filled with red beans that are made in the shape of a fish (bungeoppang) and even a shaved ice dessert, not unlike those found across Southeast Asia, called patbingsu. Sometimes fresh fruits are served, or a popular fermented chilled rice and barley flour drink called sikhae (pronounced shikhay), but this is not the everyday pattern of eating. Korean fruits include apples, Korean pears (like the Japanese nashi pear) oranges, grapes, cherries, plums and persimmons.

UTENSILS

The traditional Korean kitchen featured wood fires, before the advent of gas and electric stoves. Most of the cooking is quite simple. A good heavy-based frying pan, a wok and some saucepans or flameproof casserole dishes will see you through any of the Korean dishes in this chapter. The only other unusual vessel you need is the traditional pot used in ‘steamboat’ or ‘firekettle’ meals if you want to serve Sin Sul Lo in true Korean fashion. This pot has a central chimney surrounded by a moat, which holds the broth. It cooks and keeps hot at the table because the chimney is filled with glowing coals. Get the coals ready an hour or more beforehand in an outdoor barbecue, an hibachi, a small traditional table-top size barbecue, or a metal bucket so they will be well alight and glowing when needed.

The food can be arranged in the pot well ahead of serving time and the whole pot placed in the refrigerator. Just before starting the meal the moat is filled with boiling stock, the cover put on the pot to ensure particles of coal don’t fall into the food, and the coals or briquettes (which should be alight and glowing) are transferred to the chimney with tongs. To protect the table, put the pot on a heavy metal tray and put the tray on a thick wooden board. After the broth has simmered for a while, and the contents of the pot are heated through, guests pick out food with chopsticks and eat it with rice and a dipping sauce. At the end of the meal the stock is served as soup. These pots are often sold at Asian grocery stores. While some models in polished and ornate brass are quite expensive, the modest anodised aluminium versions are inexpensive and work just as well. In Korea, the pots are either individual-size silver ones, or larger stainless steel versions. Of course you can always substitute an electric frying pan or deep-fryer or wok, three-quarters filled with stock; or use any fairly deep pan on an efficient table burner.

FRESH INGREDIENTS

In addition to the items listed opposite, which keep indefinitely, there are the all-important garlic, ginger and spring onions. Toasted, crushed sesame seed is such an essential item of Korean seasoning that it is useful to prepare a fair amount and store it in readiness for use. To do this, put 145 g (1 cup) white sesame seeds in a heavybased frying pan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the sesame seeds are golden brown. As soon as they have acquired the right colour and smell cooked, remove them to a plate or they will darken too much and turn bitter. When slightly cool, crush the seeds using a mortar and pestle or pulverise in a food processor. Cool completely and store in an airtight jar for up to 2 months.

YOUR KOREAN SHELF

This is a list of spices, sauces and other ingredients which are often used in Korean cooking and that are good to have on hand to make the recipes in this chapter.

bamboo shoots, tinned

black pepper, ground

cayenne pepper

cellophane (bean starch) noodles

chilli powder

chillies, dried red

fermented bean sauce (dhwen jang ) (see note)

Korean fermented chilli bean paste (gochujang) (glossary)

moong dhal (split dried mung beans)

peanut oil

rice, short-grain

rice wine or dry sherry

rice vinegar or mild white vinegar

sesame oil

sesame seeds

shiitake mushrooms, dried

soy sauce, light and dark

water chestnuts, fresh or tinned

Note: If fermented bean sauce is unavailable, use Chinese bean paste or Japanese red miso instead.

SONG-I BAHB

Rice with mushrooms

SERVES: 6

This meal in a pot includes meat, vegetables and rice.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 onions, thinly sliced

100 g (½ cup) finely shredded lean steak

250 g fresh button mushrooms, sliced

500 g (2¼ cups) short-grain rice

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

Heat the vegetable and sesame oils in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, steak and mushroom and stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add the rice and stir-fry for a further 1 minute. Add all of the remaining ingredients and 750 ml (3 cups) hot water and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 20 minutes — do not lift the lid or stir during this time. Serve hot with pickles or vegetable dishes.

BOKUM BAHB

Crab and pork fried rice

SERVES: 4

2 tablespoons oil

1 garlic clove, finely grated

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

80 g (½ cup) cooked flaked crab meat

125 g (½ cup) chopped cooked pork

740 g (4 cups) hot cooked short-grain rice

6–8 chopped spring onions

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger, crab meat and pork and stir-fry until very hot, then add the rice and continue stir-frying until the rice is fried. Add the spring onion and salt, to taste, and toss well to combine Serve hot.

GUCHULPAN

Nine varieties

SERVES: 12 AS AN APPETISER, 6 AS A MAIN DISH

Guchulpan is usually served as a prelude to a meal or as something to nibble with drinks. Small pancakes are piled in the centre of a tray, around which are a selection of finely shredded omelettes, stir-fried shredded beef and various vegetables for filling them. The ingredients are picked up with chopsticks and put in the centre of a pancake, which is rolled around the filling, dipped in a special sauce and eaten. Because guchulpan is served at room temperature, it is ideal for advance preparation.

Pancakes

225 g (1½ cups) plain flour

¼ teaspoon salt

2 eggs, lightly beaten

250 ml (1 cup) milk

vegetable oil, for frying

pine nuts and parsley sprigs (optional), to garnish

Fillings

10 dried shiitake mushrooms

vegetable oil or sesame oil, for frying

soy sauce, to taste

sugar, for sprinkling

3 eggs, separated

250 g beef fillet

3 carrots, cut into thin strips

12 spring onions, cut into thin strips

1 large daikon, peeled and cut into thin strips

250 g zucchini (courgettes), cut into thin strips

Dipping sauce

185 ml (¾ cup) soy sauce

1 tablespoon mild vinegar

1 tablespoon toasted, crushed sesame seeds

2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion

To make the pancakes, sift the flour and salt into a bowl and make a well in the centre. In a separate bowl, mix together the egg, milk and 250 ml (1 cup) water. Add to the flour and stir rapidly with a wooden spoon to combine, beating until smooth. Set aside while preparing the fillings.

To make the fillings, soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, reserving 125 ml (½ cup) of the soaking liquid, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Heat a little oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the mushroom, soy sauce, freshly ground black pepper, the reserved soaking liquid and a sprinkling of sugar. Cover the pan and simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until the mushroom is tender and all of the liquid has been absorbed. Set aside.

Beat the egg yolks and egg whites in separate bowls. Heat a little oil in the clean wok and separately fry the yolks and whites to make large, flat omelettes — do not allow to brown. Allow to cool, then slice into very fine strips.

Partially freeze the beef then slice it very thinly. Continue to slice into shreds. Heat a little oil in the clean wok over high heat and stir-fry the beef, adding soy sauce and pepper, to taste — the beef should be well done and any liquid absorbed.

In separate batches, add a little oil to the wok and stir-fry the carrot, spring onion, daikon and zucchini, seasoning with salt and pepper, to taste. The aim is to keep the natural colour of the vegetables so cook for only a short time and do not allow anything to brown.

Arrange all the filling ingredients in separate piles around the edge of a plate or in a compartmented tray, leaving the centre for the pancakes. Set aside.

To cook the pancakes, heat a little vegetable oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium–low heat. Pour in a ladleful of the batter, sufficient to make a fairly thin pancake and cook until set. Turn and cook the other side, then remove to a large chopping board. When all the pancakes have been made, use a round pastry cutter with a 7.5 cm diameter to make small circles. Pile the pancakes into the centre of the tray or dish and garnish with a few pine nuts and parsley sprigs, if desired.

To make the dipping sauce, combine all of the ingredients and divide between individual sauce bowls to serve.

GANGHWE

Appetisers

MAKES: ABOUT 15

375 g beef fillet

Korean marinade

2 eggs, separated

sesame oil, for frying

spring onions, green part only, or chives, to serve

dried red chilli, thinly sliced

Slice the beef into very fine shreds and marinate in a bowl with the Korean marinade for 20 minutes.

Beat the egg yolks and egg whites in separate bowls. Heat a little sesame oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Add the egg yolk and swirl to make a paper-thin omelette; when set, turn and lightly cook the other side. Remove to a plate. Repeat with the egg white to make another omelette. Cut the omelettes into thin strips and set aside.

Stir-fry the beef in a dry wok or large heavy-based frying pan for 3 minutes, or until brown. Set aside.

Pour boiling water over the spring onions to make them pliable. Drain well and cool slightly.

To serve, make little bundles of egg strips, beef strips and strips of dried chilli and tie them together with the spring onion, leaving strips of egg and beef showing at either end. Serve with sesame seed sauce.

CHO KANJANG

Sesame seed sauce

MAKES: 250 ML (1 CUP)

75 g (½ cup) toasted, crushed sesame seeds

1 tablespoon sugar

60 ml (¼ cup) vinegar

80 ml (⅓ cup) light soy sauce

Put all of the ingredients into a bowl and stir well to combine. Serve with hot or cold vegetables or as a sauce for meat. This sauce can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

BINDAETTOEK

Bean pancakes

MAKES: ABOUT 20

225 g (1 cup) moong dhal (split dried mung beans)

2 eggs, lightly beaten

125 g minced (ground) pork

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 spring onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

60 g (½ cup) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed and chopped

40 g (½ cup) kim chi or shredded Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

2 tablespoons sesame oil, plus extra for cooking

Wash the moong dhal and soak in cold water overnight. Rinse and drain well.

Put the moong dhal and 250 ml (1 cup) water into a food processor and process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, add all of the remaining ingredients, except the extra sesame oil and mix well.

Heat a little sesame oil on a griddle plate or in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Drop 1 tablespoonful of the mixture into the pan at a time and cook until golden brown underneath, then turn and cook the other side. Serve hot or cold.

YOOK SOO

Beef stock

MAKES: 3 LITRES

2 kg beef rib bones

1 kg beef shin

4 large slices fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

Put the well-washed bones into a large saucepan with the beef, ginger, salt and enough cold water to cover. Bring to the boil. Remove any scum that rises to the surface, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 2–3 hours. Remove from the heat, allow to cool then strain the stock and chill. Remove any trace of fat from the surface before using. Use as basic stock in soups.

GORIGOMTANG

Oxtail soup

SERVES: 6–8

1.5 kg oxtail, jointed

2 slices fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

Sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon toasted, crushed sesame seeds

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions

3 teaspoons finely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger

Put the oxtail into a large saucepan with the ginger, salt and 2 litres (8 cups) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 2 hours, or until the meat is tender — you should have about 1.5 litres (6 cups) stock. Remove any scum that rises to the surface.

In a bowl, combine the sauce ingredients and serve with the soup as a dipping sauce for the pieces of oxtail.

GOGI KUK

Beef and vegetable soup

SERVES: 4–6

Like many Korean dishes, this soup has a hot tang from the bean sauce.

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

2 tablespoons oil

250 g round steak, diced

3 spring onions, cut into 5 cm lengths

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1.5 litres (6 cups) beef stock (opposite) or water

1 teaspoon Korean fermented chilli bean paste (gochujang) or to taste (glossary)

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sesame oil

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the beef and stir-fry until browned. Add the spring onion, garlic and mushroom and stir-fry for a further 1 minute, then add all of the remaining ingredients except the sesame oil. Bring to the boil, stir well, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste and season as necessary. Add the sesame oil, stir to combine and serve immediately.

MANDOO

Dumpling soup

SERVES: 6

2.25 litres (9 cups) basic beef stock

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

omelette strips, to garnish

toasted nori sheets, crumbled, to garnish

Dumplings

2 tablespoons oil

125 g minced (ground) pork

125 g lean minced (ground) beef

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

½ head small Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

90 g silken tofu

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon toasted, crushed sesame seeds

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

150 g (¼ packet) won ton wrappers

To make the dumplings, heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the pork and beef minces and cook until the meat changes colour. Add 125 ml (½ cup) water and simmer gently until the liquid evaporates. Set aside.

Blanch the bean sprouts in lightly salted boiling water for 3 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon and chop. Boil the cabbage for 5 minutes, drain well and finely chop. Mash the tofu. Mix all these ingredients with the spring onion, sesame seeds and garlic, salt and pepper.

Place a teaspoonful of the filling in the centre of each won ton wrapper, dampen the edges with water and fold over and press together to form a triangle. Cover with plastic wrap so they don’t dry out — they may be made up to 3 hours in advance and refrigerated.

Put the stock, soy sauce and some salt in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Gently lower the dumplings into the stock, taking care they do not stick together, and simmer, in batches, for 10 minutes, or until they rise to the surface and are cooked.

Serve immediately in small bowls with the omelette strips and crumbled nori to garnish.

KONG NAMUL KUK

Soup of soy bean sprouts

SERVES: 6

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 garlic cloves, crushed

375 g lean steak, thinly sliced

500 g (4⅓ cups) fresh soy bean sprouts, trimmed

2 spring onions, green part only, thinly sliced

Put the soy sauce, sesame oil, pepper and garlic in a bowl. Add the beef and toss to coat in the marinade.

Heat a wok over high heat and stir-fry the beef until it changes colour. Add 2 litres (8 cups) water and the bean sprouts, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the spring onion, re-cover and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Add more soy sauce or some salt if desired and serve hot.

SAEWOO BOKUM

Green beans with prawns

SERVES: 6

500 g small raw prawns or shrimp, peeled and deveined

500 g fresh green beans, trimmed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

3 teaspoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

Roughly chop the prawns and set aside. Cut the beans into thin diagonal slices.

Heat the vegetable and sesame oils in a wok or large heavybased frying pan over high heat. Add the onion and the prawn meat and stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add the beans and stir-fry for a further 3 minutes. Add the soy sauce, sugar and sesame seeds and toss to combine, then cover and simmer over low heat for 6–8 minutes, or until the beans are just tender — they must not be overcooked. Serve immediately with rice.

TUIGIM SAENGSUN

Fried fish

SERVES: 6

6 small skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 tablespoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

a pinch of freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, sesame seeds, pepper, spring onion and sesame oil. Add the fish and turn to coat in the marinade.

Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the fish until golden brown on both sides. Serve the fried fish while it is warm.

GUN SAENGSUN

Grilled fish

SERVES: 6

6 small whole fish or 12 small firm white fish fillets

60 ml (¼ cup) soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon toasted, crushed sesame seeds

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon chilli sauce (optional)

Clean and scale the fish, leaving the head on. To clean the cavity, wipe inside the fish cavity with damp paper towel that has first been dipped in coarse salt. Trim any long spines or fins neatly.

In a bowl, combine all of the remaining ingredients. Pour over the fish, turning to coat.

Place the fish on an oiled griller (broiler) tray and grill under medium heat until the fish is cooked through to the centre bone. Better still, grill over glowing coals. Brush the fish with the sauce during cooking to keep the flesh moist. Do not overcook.

DAK JIM

Chicken stew

SERVES: 4–6

1.5 kg whole chicken

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

½ teaspoon chilli powder or cayenne pepper

3 spring onions, finely chopped

¼ teaspoon salt

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

Put the chicken into a large heavy-based saucepan with all of the remaining ingredients and toss to coat the chicken. Leave for 2 hours at room temperature.

Place the pan over low heat, cover, and cook the chicken for about 2 hours, or until the chicken is cooked through. Serve with hot rice and kim chi.

DAK BUSUTJIM

Braised chicken and mushrooms

SERVES: 4–6

10 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 kg whole chicken

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper or chilli powder

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large onion, cut into large pieces

2 tinned winter bamboo shoots, cut into thin matchsticks

4 spring onions, cut into short lengths

2 tablespoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds, to garnish

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, reserving 125 ml (½ cup) of the soaking liquid, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps. Set aside.

Joint the chicken, then chop into small pieces, cutting through the bones with a heavy cleaver.

In a bowl, mix together the soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, cayenne pepper and black pepper and rub over the chicken to coat. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes. Drain well, reserving the marinade.

Heat the vegetableoil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. hea Add the chicken and stir-fry until brown. Add the mush mushroom, reserved soaking liquid and the reserved marinade, cover, and simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until the chicken is te tender. Add the onion, bamboo shoot and spring onion and cookfor a further 2 minutes. Garnish with the sesame seeds andserve with white rice.

YUKKAE JANG KUK

Beef stew

SERVES: 6

1 kg skirt or flank steak

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

125 g rice vermicelli

24 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons chilli powder, or to taste

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Put the whole steak into a large saucepan with the salt, pepper and just enough water to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1½ hours, or until the steak is very tender. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, then use your fingers to shred the meat into small pieces.

Soak the rice vermicelli according to the packet instructions, then drain well.

Return the meat to the pan, add the spring onion and sugar and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Add the rice vermicelli with the combined sesame oil and chilli powder — the rich red oil will float to the top. Dribble the egg into the simmering stew, stirring so that it cooks in shreds. Serve with hot white rice.

GOGI BOKUM

Deep fried beef slices

SERVES: 3–4

500 g lean rump or fillet steak

1 spring onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped leek, white part only

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

½ teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons sesame oil

a few drops of hot chilli sauce or chilli oil

125 ml (½ cup) peanut oil

1 quantity bulgogi sauce

Cut the steak into very thin slices and beat them quite flat. Arrange in a single layer in a large dish and sprinkle over the spring onion, leek and garlic.

In a bowl, combine the sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil and chilli sauce. Spoon over the beef and leave to marinate for 2–3 hours, or longer in the refrigerator.

Heat the peanut oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the beef slices, a few at a time, for a few seconds until they change colour. Remove from the heat and drain briefly, then serve at once. To serve, the steak is dipped in the bulgogi sauce and eaten, accompanied by steamed white rice.

BULGOGI

Fiery beef

SERVES: 10–12 AS AN APPETISER, 6–8 AS A MAIN DISH

1 kg lean rump or fillet

½ quantity of bulgalbi marinade (opposite)

1 quantity of bulgogi sauce (below)

Cut the steak into very thin slices. Beat them out very flat, then cut into medium-size squares. Place in a dish with the marinade, turning to coat and leave the meat to marinate for 3 hours or longer in the refrigerator. Grill briefly over glowing coals or in a chargrill pan and serve with rice and the bulgogi sauce.

YANGNYUM KANJANG

Bulgogi sauce

MAKES: ½ CUP

60 ml (¼ cup) soy sauce

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1 teaspoon fermented bean sauce (dhwen jang) or Chinese bean paste

2 tablespoons rice wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon toasted, crushed sesame seeds

2 teaspoons finely chopped spring onion

½–1 teaspoon Korean fermented chilli bean paste (gochujang) or chilli sauce (optional)

1 small garlic clove, crushed

salt, to taste

2 teaspoons sugar

In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, sesame oil, fermented bean sauce, 2 tablespoons water, rice wine, sesame seeds, spring onion and fermented chilli bean paste, if using.

Crush together the garlic, salt and sugar to a fine paste. Add to the soy mixture and stir well to combine. Serve in small individual sauce dishes or use as directed.

BULGALBI

Barbecued short ribs of beef

SERVES: 8–10 AS AN APPETISER, 4 AS A MAIN DISH

2 kg beef short ribs, cut into 5 cm lengths (ask your butcher to do this)

Bulgalbi marinade

125 ml (½ cup) soy sauce

4 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion

2 teaspoons crushed garlic

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon sugar

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

To make the bulgalbi marinade, combine all of the ingredients in a large bowl with 125 ml (½ cup) water.

Put the ribs on a chopping board, bone side down, and use a sharp knife to cut halfway through the meat in small dice — this will allow the marinade to penetrate. Add to the marinade and turn to coat, then cover and leave to marinate for at least 4 hours, or refrigerate overnight.

Prepare a domed grill or table-top barbecue well ahead of cooking time so the coals have an hour or more to achieve the steady glow necessary for successful cooking. Put the meat on the grill, bone side down, and cook until brown. Turn and cook the other side until well done. Turn the beef frequently, so that all sides are brown and crisp. The short ribs are intended to be picked up with the fingers for eating.

Note: Bulgalbi can also be cooked under a preheated griller (broiler) or oven-roasted. Short ribs should be cooked in one layer in a roasting tin. Roast in a 200°C (Gas 6) oven for 1 hour, turning the beef halfway through cooking.

YANG PA WA SOGOGI JJIM

Braised beef with onions

SERVES: 4–6

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

750 g lean round or topside steak

3 tablespoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

1 garlic clove

½ teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

½ teaspoon chilli powder or cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

24 spring onions, white part only, thinly sliced

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps. Set aside.

Slice the beef and cut into bite-sized squares, then beat until very thin.

In a bowl, combine the sesame seeds, garlic, ginger, soy sauce and chilli powder. Add the beef and use your hands to knead the seasonings into the meat.

Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the beef and mushroom and stir-fry until cooked. Remove to a plate, then add the spring onion to the wok and stir-fry, adding a little more oil if necessary. Scatter the spring onion over the meat and serve immediately — this dish should be eaten with bowls of hot rice.

GOGI BUSUT BOKUM

Stir-fried beef with fresh mushrooms

SERVES: 2–4

250 g lean steak

1 small garlic clove, crushed

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons oil

250 g fresh button, field or fresh shiitake mushrooms, thickly sliced

60 ml (¼ cup) beef stock or hot water

1½ teaspoons cornflour

Partially freeze the beef, then cut into paper-thin slices.

In a bowl, mix together the garlic, ginger and salt. Add the beef and toss to coat the meat evenly.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the beef and stir-fry until the meat changes colour. Add the mushroom and stir-fry for a further minute, then add the stock, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 2 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water to make a smooth paste. Push the beef and mushrooms to one side of the wok, stir in the cornflour paste and stir constantly until the sauce boils and thickens. Serve immediately with white rice.

DWEJI GALBI WA CHAM GI LEUM

Spareribs braised with sesame sauce

SERVES: 4–5

1 tablespoon oil

1.5 kg pork spareribs, cut into 5 cm lengths (ask your butcher to do this)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons sesame oil

3 spring onions, thinly sliced, plus extra to garnish

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons rice wine or dry sherry

1 tablespoon toasted, crushed sesame seeds

1 teaspoon cornflour

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the spareribs and cook to brown all over.

In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, sesame oil, spring onion, garlic, ginger, sugar, rice wine, sesame seeds and 250 ml (1 cup) hot water. Add to the wok, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 40–45 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 1 tablespoon cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the wok and stir constantly over medium heat until the sauce boils and thickens. Serve hot, garnished with the extra spring onion. Serve with white rice.

SANJUCK

Skewered beef and mushrooms

SERVES: 4–5

250 g lean rump or round steak

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

1 garlic clove, crushed with

½ teaspoon sugar

1 pinch of freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon crushed fresh chilli

12 spring onions, cut into 5 cm lengths

185 g button mushrooms, thickly sliced

oil, for frying

plain flour, for dipping

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

Soak 25 bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking. Cut the beef into 5 mm strips, then cut each strip into 5 cm lengths.

In a bowl, combine the sesame oil, soy sauce, sesame seeds, garlic, pepper and chilli. Add the beef, toss to coat, then leave to marinate while preparing the other ingredients.

Thread the meat, spring onion and mushrooms alternately onto each skewer. Cut the skewers in half if they are too long to fit into your frying pan, but thread two lots of ingredients on before you cut them so you have the pointed end for easy threading.

Heat enough oil to cover the base of a large heavy-based frying pan — the oil should be hot, but not smoking. Dip the skewers first into the flour, then into the egg. Cook the skewers until brown and crisp, about 2–3 minutes on each side. Serve immediately with white rice.

SIN SUL LO

Banquet firepot

SERVES: 6

In Korea, this version of the famous steamboat is served on special occasions. All the food is arranged in the pot before it is brought to the table to finish cooking. It is also sometimes served in individual pots with coals in the central chimney to keep the broth simmering throughout the meal.

500 g fillet steak

2 onions, sliced

250 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets, sliced

250 g calves’ livers, sliced

3 eggs, separated

plain flour

vegetable oil, for frying

4 spring onions

1 carrot

70 g (½ cup) walnuts

80 g (½ cup) pine nuts

1.5–2 litres (6–8 cups) beef stock, boiling

sesame seed sauce

Partially freeze the beef, then cut into paper-thin slices. Put the beef and onions into sin sul lo pot (steamboat) or individual pots.

Season the fish and liver with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Beat the yolk of 1 egg and dip slices of liver in it, then turn to coat in the flour. Lightly beat 1 egg white and dip the fish slices in it, then turn to coat in the flour.

Heat just enough vegetable oil to cover the base of a frying pan over high heat. Quickly sauté the fish and liver separately until just cooked. Put these in the pot on top of the beef and onion.

Separately beat the remaining egg yolk and egg whites and cook in a frying pan to make two separate omelettes. Cut each omelette into strips just long enough to fit across the moat of the firepot. Cut the spring onions into similar lengths. Slice the carrot thinly and cut into strips of the same size. Arrange these over the beef, fish and liver, then garnish with the walnuts and pine nuts. The recipe may be prepared up to this point, covered and refrigerated until ready to serve.

At serving time, carefully ladle the boiling stock into the moat without disturbing the arrangement of food. Replace the cover on the pot and use tongs to place the glowing coals into the chimney. Bring to the table and allow the broth to simmer for a few minutes and heat the contents of the pot thoroughly.

Remove the cover and let guests help themselves from the pot with chopsticks. They dip the food in individual bowls of sesame seed sauce before eating. Boiled rice is served with this meal and at the end the stock is served as soup.

OYI JIKAI

Stir-fried cucumbers with beef

SERVES: 4

250 g lean rump or fillet steak

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 telegraph (long) cucumbers

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 tablespoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

Partially freeze the beef, then cut into paper-thin slices.

In a bowl, combine the sesame oil, soy sauce, salt, sugar and cayenne pepper. Add the beef and mix well by hand so the flavourings penetrate the meat.

Peel the cucumbers, leaving a thin strip of green skin at intervals for decorative effect. Cut each in half lengthways, scoop out the seeds then cut widthways into thin slices.

Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the beef and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the cucumber and stir-fry for a further 1 minute, then let the mixture simmer until the cucumber is tender but still crisp. Garnish with the sesame seeds and serve hot with white rice.

CHAP CHYE

Stir-fried mixture

SERVES: 4–6

250 g beef fillet

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons finely chopped spring onion

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon toasted, crushed sesame seeds

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon sesame oil

60 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

2 eggs, separated vegetable oil, for frying

125 g (1⅔ cups) thinly sliced Chinese cabbage (wong bok) (optional)

125 g (1⅓ cups) thinly sliced carrots

125 g (¾ cup) thinly sliced bamboo shoots

125 g onions, thinly sliced

2 cucumbers, thinly sliced

200 g spinach, trimmed and sliced

sugar, to taste

soy sauce, to taste

Partially freeze the beef, then cut into paper-thin slices. In a bowl combine the sugar, soy sauce, spring onion, garlic, sesame seeds, pepper and sesame oil. Add the beef and toss to coat, then leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain well and cut into 8 cm lengths.

Separately beat the egg yolks and egg whites and cook in a frying pan to make two separate omelettes. Cut each omelette into strips. Set aside.

Heat a little vegetable oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and separately stir-fry the beef, noodles, cabbage, if using, carrot, bamboo shoots, onion, cucumber and spinach until just cooked.

To serve, mix all of the ingredients together on a large plate, season to taste with the soy sauce, sugar, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve very hot.

SIKUMCHI KUK

Braised spinach with pork

SERVES: 6

2 tablespoons oil

250 g pork fillet, diced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

400 g fresh spinach, trimmed and chopped into large pieces

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

5 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 egg, lightly beaten

3 tablespoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add the pork and garlic and stir-fry until the meat changes colour. Add the spinach and toss well, season with the soy sauce and pepper, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the spinach is tender. Add the spring onion and egg and stir-fry over medium heat for 2 minutes, then sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve hot with rice.

SONG-I BUSUT JIM

Steamed mushrooms with prawn and chicken

SERVES: 4

250 g button mushrooms (choose mushrooms of equal size, with about 3.5 cm diameters)

125 g raw prawns, peeled, deveined and finely chopped

1 chicken breast fillet, finely chopped

6 water chestnuts, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped bamboo shoot

2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion

1 tablespoon cornflour

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 teaspoon oyster sauce

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

fresh coriander leaves, to garnish (optional)

Remove the mushroom stems with a little twist, leaving the caps intact. (Reserve the stems for another use.)

In a bowl, combine all of the other ingredients, mixing thoroughly. Fill each mushroom cap with this mixture, creating a little mound and pressing into a neat shape. Put the mushrooms on a lightly oiled heatproof plate and steam for 20 minutes. Garnish with the coriander, if desired, and serve at room temperature.

MU SAINGCHAI

Daikon salad

SERVES: 4

1–2 crisp cooking apples, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks

juice of ½ lemon

2 large daikon, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

Dressing

3 tablespoons light soy sauce

1 tablespoon light olive oil

2 teaspoons sesame oil

60 ml (¼ cup) rice vinegar or mild white vinegar

3 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon toasted, crushed sesame seeds

1 fresh red chilli, seeded and finely chopped

To make the dressing, combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl.

Soak the apple in cold water with a good squeeze of lemon juice to prevent discolouration. Drain well.

Combine the daikon, apple and spring onion in a serving bowl with the dressing and toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate before serving.

KIM CHI

Pickled chinese cabbage

MAKES: 750 G

‘Kim ch’ is one of Korea’s national dishes, with as many versions as there are cooks. This is a combination of three recipes, and while it may have an unorthodox touch in the Japanese dashi stock, it is a very tasty version of ‘kim chi’.

1 large head Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

salt (not iodised)

cayenne pepper

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 fresh red chillies, seeded and finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

500 ml (2 cups) dashi

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

Cut the base off the cabbage, then slice lengthways into six segments. Dry in the sun for half a day, cut each segment in half widthways, then put into an unglazed earthenware pot alternately with good handfuls of salt and a sprinkling of cayenne pepper, making several layers. Cover with a wooden lid just small enough to fit inside the pot so that it rests directly on the cabbage. Weight it down with a heavy stone and leave for 1 week.

Rinse the cabbage thoroughly under cold running water, then squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Slice into 2.5 cm sections or chop more finely if preferred and put into the cleaned pot, this time layering with the spring onion, garlic, chilli and ginger. Fill the pot with the combined dashi and soy sauce. Cover with baking paper, cover with a lid, and refrigerate.

After 4–5 days the kim chi is ready for eating. Serve with hot white rice and a dash of soy sauce.

Note: In cold weather kim chi does not require refrigeration, but when the weather is warm, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

OYI NAMUL

Cucumber salad

SERVES: 6

2 telegraph (long) cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced

3 teaspoons coarse salt

2 tablespoons rice vinegar or mild white vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 spring onion, finely chopped

3 teaspoons toasted, crushed sesame seeds

Put the cucumber into a bowl, sprinkle with the salt and add 250 ml (1 cup) water. Leave to soak for 15 minutes, then drain well.

In a bowl, combine all of the other ingredients, pour over the cucumbers, mix well and serve chilled.

KONG NAMUL

Bean sprout salad

SERVES: 6

500 g (4⅓ cups) fresh mung or soy bean sprouts, trimmed

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon salad oil

1 tablespoon toasted, crushed sesame seeds

60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon honey or sugar

1 pinch of chilli powder or cayenne pepper

Blanch the bean sprouts in a saucepan of lightly salted boiling water for 1 minute if using mung beans, or slightly longer for soy beans. The sprouts should be just tender. Drain well, refresh in cold water and drain again.

In a bowl, combine all of the other ingredients. Add the bean sprouts and toss to coat in the dressing. Chill before serving.

JAPAN

Japanese food stands apart from all other Asian food because of its simplicity and purity. It is memorable not for its spicing or richness or comple blending of flavours, but because it emphasises basic ingredients and and trains the palate to accept and appreciate food in its most natural state.

To those brought brough up in a tradition of cooking that prides itself on subtle sauces or spice blends that tantalise and defy analysis, this sparseness of seasoning may come as something of a surprise. But once Japanese food has been approached without prejudice, and sampled with good appetite and an open mind, it wins admirers from all culinary backgrounds. To think I once imagined I wouldn’t enjoy raw fish! Nothing in any other cuisine approaches the silkiness of pale pink salmon or buttery tuna belly (toro) sashimi. It has to be experienced to be believed. And it goes without saying that any seafood for sashimi needs to be premium quality and super fresh. There are no strong, fishy tastes because only the choicest portions of the freshest fish are used. It is a dish for the connoisseur with a discerning palate, the dipping sauces of soy and wasabi (green horseradish) and perhaps a shiso leaf adding flavour without masking the taste of the fish itself.

What is the special quality of Japanese cooking? Is it the beautiful presentation? Is it the small quantities in which food is served so that one appreciates the appearance, aroma, taste and texture in a special way? I think it is all these — and a certain attitude the Japanese have towards food. It is considered not only fuel for the body but also food for the soul. There is as much attention given to the right bowl or plate on which to present the food, and the arrangement of the food on that plate, as to the preparation of the food itself. The surroundings in which a meal is eaten are also carefully chosen so that a peaceful atmosphere prevails. An alcove in the room will provide a setting for a simple ikebana arrangement. A Japanese meal should be an experience for all the senses.

Great emphasis is placed on freshness, quality and foods in season. Japanese wives shop every day so they are certain of the freshness of ingredients. The first of any seasonal food is always greatly prized, and they are prepared to pay high prices for the privilege of tasting the first strawberries, matsutake mushrooms or other seasonal treats.

Comparing Japanese cooking with other Asian cooking, another difference is that most traditional Japanese cooking is done in or over water, while other cuisines use oil as a cooking medium. Water-based cooking gives a lightness and delicacy of flavour that is most appealing. Steaming means that the pure flavours of the food and most of the nutrient value are retained. Seaweed may not be everyone’s cup of dashi, but when used as a flavouring for rice, stock and other dishes, it is so subtle as to be hardly discernible. Similarly, katsuobushi, dried, smoked and thinly shaved bonito, delivers an intriguing complexity to the stocks and sauces it is simmered in. Toasted nori, a great favourite in Japan, is prized for its strong flavour. Wakame, a seaweed popular in soups and other simmered dishes, has an unmistakably marine smell and taste. Seaweed salad may not sound appetising, but the finely shredded bright green sea vegetable, tossed in a delicious dressing that includes sesame oil, mirin, rice vinegar and shoyu (Japanese soy sauce), packs a flavour punch and a tender crunch unlike anything else I have tasted.

Tofu or soy bean curd, low in calories and high in protein, is a mainstay of the Japanese diet. It is served at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Its flavour is so delicate that it might be mistaken for a custard that is neither sweet nor savoury, but once someone takes a liking to this food, it becomes almost a fetish.

Miso (fermented soy bean paste) and shoyu are two more soy bean products that are fundamental to Japanese cuisine. Japanese soy sauce is the most universally used seasoning and who, having savoured the wonderful difference it makes to all kinds of food, would be content to do without it?

Perhaps the best feature of Japanese food is that it is so light. Even deep-fried foods such as tonkatsu or tempura are renowned for their lightness. Tempura batter is feather-light and so thin it is almost transparent, providing a crisp coating which helps the food cook both in the hot oil and in its own steam within the fragile batter covering. Pure vegetable oil is used for frying, and is usually a mixture of different oils such as corn oil, olive oil and a proportion of sesame oil for flavour. It is heated to just the right temperature to keep fried food digestible and non-greasy. Although tempura is widely known, and is one of the most popular Japanese dishes, it is a comparatively recent addition to Japan’s cuisine, having been introduced by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century. On days when, as Catholics, they were forbidden to eat meat, they asked for prawns fried in batter. What the Japanese did with the basic idea was to refine it, create a batter of exquisite lightness and make the cooking and serving of it a triumph of split-second timing.

‘Aesthetic’ is the word that best describes Japanese food, because along with freshness and flavour is an awareness of how food should be presented. This changes with the seasons. The Japanese don’t try to impress with imported, out-of-season delicacies, but celebrate the seasons, making the most of the foods when nature provides them. A seasonal motif, such as a slice of carrot shaped like a blossom in springtime, or in autumn carved to resemble a maple leaf, reflects a changing of moods. Summer foods, cool and light, are set off by green leaves and delicate plates, while winter brings on steaming nabemono foods such as shabu-shabu and sukiyaki, to be cooked and eaten at the table.

Even the plates and dishes for serving and eating are chosen for their seasonal suitability. This awareness of the changing of the seasons permeates Japanese culture and thinking, and the choice and presentation of food. The Japanese word for this seasonal feeling is kisetsukan. It is virtually impossible for someone who has not lived in Japan and experienced this first-hand to understand and express this heightened awareness. But happily it is possible, without too much trouble, to cook Japanese food and enjoy it.

Great importance is attached to the cooking of rice, for if there is one thing the Japanese home cook must be able to do, it is to cook rice and cook it perfectly. Nowadays, automatic rice cookers are widely used, but for centuries rice was cooked without these modern marvels and has always been cooked well. The absorption method is used; though slightly different from the methods used in other Asian countries, the recipe is simple and always gives good results.

SERVING AND EATING A JAPANESE MEAL

Unlike Chinese meals where the effect is lavish, with large serving dishes holding quantities of food, Japanese meals are usually served on individual dishes in small servings. Sometimes a tray is set in front of each diner, with all the food served at one time, but each dish on its own carefully chosen plate or bowl.

Soup is served in covered bowls. Japanese lacquer bowls with covers keep the soup hot but must be handled carefully, for the steam forms a seal; to release the seal, squeeze the bowl gently or the soup will spill while you try to prise off the cover. Chopsticks are used to pick up any ingredients added to the soup, then the bowl is lifted to the lips with both hands. No spoons are used for any Japanese food except chawan mushi (steamed savoury custard). Japanese chopsticks are more pointed than Chinese ones, and are generally made from lacquered wood. In most restaurants, however, wooden chopsticks (warabashi) are used; they come sealed in a paper envelope, and are thrown away after use. Although rice is of prime importance, noodles of various kinds are sometimes served instead; chilled noodle dishes are especially popular in summer.

Sake or tea is served with meals. In summer a popular beverage is mugicha, or iced ‘tea’, made not with tea but with roasted unhusked barley brewed like tea. It is refreshing and, though the first sip may taste strange, it is a drink most people grow to like. It is also very popular in Korea, and I have been served it both in Japanese and Korean homes.

When sake is served in winter, the bottle or flask is put in hot water until it warms up to about 43°C. Tiny cups called sakazuki are used for drinking the sake, but liqueur glasses may be used instead. In summer the sake may be served chilled.

UTENSILS

While there are special utensils traditionally used in Japanese cooking, it is reassuring to know that in modern Japanese homes electric frying pans and automatic rice cookers are preferred. Heavy-based saucepans with tightfitting lids and other good-quality cookware normally found in Western kitchens cope adequately with any of the Japanese dishes in this chapter.

The one pan that would not be found in a Western kitchen is the rectangular omelette pan used for making rolled omelettes. It is naturally easier to achieve an even roll in one of these than in a round pan, and if you’re keen on buying one, some Japanese grocery stores sell them. A sharp chopper or really good kitchen knife, and other utensils you are most at home with, are the best ones to use. You may want to invest in a ceramic Japanese grater if you don’t own one that grates finely enough. For cooking at the table there are many useful and decorative pans available. If you are keen to make sushi, get yourself a few bamboo mats (maki-sudare).

YOUR JAPANESE SHELF

aburage (deep-fried bean curd sheets) (glossary)

atsuage/namaage (deep-fried pressed tofu)

black sesame seeds and salt (gomasio)

bonito flakes (katsuobushi), dried and smoked

fish cakes, Japanese-style (kamaboko)

ginkgo nuts

kombu (dried kelp)

mirin (sweet rice wine)

miso (fermented soy bean paste)

noodles — harusame, soba (buckwheat noodles), somen, udon

panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)

pickled daikon (takuan)

pickled ginger (beni shoga)

rice vinegar

sake (dry rice wine)

sansho (Japanese pepper)

sesame oil

shiitake mushrooms, dried

shirataki noodles (glossary)

shiso (a strongly flavoured, large leafed herb traditionally eaten with raw fish)

shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

wasabi paste

GOHAN

Cooked rice

SERVES: 6

White rice cooked by the absorption method is the staple food of Japan, and short- or medium-grain varieties are preferred. Rice is made up into other dishes with vegetables, fish or meat but most often is served as the mainstay of the meal with which other dishes are eaten. An automatic rice cooker which ensures perfectly cooked rice every time is almost an essential kitchen appliance, but just as reliable is this traditional method.

550 g (2½ cups) short-grain rice

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Put the rice into a heavy-based saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, add 750 ml (3 cups) cold water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and steam for 15 minutes without lifting the lid. Turn the heat to high for 20 seconds still with the pan covered, remove the pan from the heat and allow to stand for 10 minutes before serving. Dipping a rice paddle in cold water before each serving prevents cooked rice grains sticking to it.

MUSUBI

Rice balls

MAKES: 4

Rice balls are usually taken on picnics and are sometimes filled with pieces of raw or smoked fish. They may also be very simply flavoured with sesame seeds or seaweed.

370 g (2 cups) cooked short-grain rice (above)

black sesame seeds and salt (gomasio) or powdered nori (seaweed)

raw or smoked fish, thinly sliced (optional)

When the rice is cool enough to handle, take about 95 g (½ cup) at a time, and with wet hands, roll into firm balls with a 7.5 cm diameter. If using fish, push a strip into the centre of each rice ball, moulding the rice around it. Roll the rice balls lightly in gomasio or powdered nori, to coat.

OYAKO DOMBURI

Parent and child domburi

SERVES: 6

Domburi means an earthenware bowl, but the name also applies to the food served in it, generally rice with toppings of meat, eggs, poultry, vegetables or a combination of ingredients. ‘Oyako domburi’ is so called because it is made from chicken and eggs served over rice.

500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock

1 tablespoon mirin (sweet rice wine)

125 ml (½ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

500 g chicken thigh or breast fillets, diced

6 eggs, lightly beaten

¼ teaspoon salt

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 quantity cooked short-grain rice (opposite)

Put the chicken stock, mirin and shoyu in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the chicken, return to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, season the egg with the salt, then add the egg and three-quarters of the spring onion to the simmering stock. Without stirring, let the mixture return to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 3–4 minutes, or until the eggs are set but still soft.

Spoon the rice into a heated earthenware bowl, then pour over the hot chicken and egg mixture and garnish with the remaining spring onion. Serve immediately.

KITSUNE DOMBURI

Rice with fried bean curd

SERVES: 6

‘Kitsune’ is the Japanese word for fox and this dish is so named because according to Japanese folklore the fox has a great fondness for fried bean curd which, with rice, is the chief ingredient in this dish.

4 sheets aburage (fried bean curd)

boiling water

625 ml (2½ cups) dashi or chicken stock

125 ml (½ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

125 ml (½ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

1 tablespoon sugar

6 spring onions, thinly sliced diagonally

1 quantity cooked short-grain rice

Put the aburage in a colander and pour over boiling water to make it less oily. Cut each aburage sheet in half lengthways, then cut widthways into thin strips.

Put the dashi, shoyu, mirin and sugar into a saucepan with the aburage and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, then add the spring onion, cover, and simmer for a further minute.

Put the rice into a large serving bowl or six individual bowls and ladle the hot soup over the top. Serve immediately.

ZARU SOBA

Chilled noodles

SERVES: 4

200 g soba (buckwheat noodles)

1 sheet nori

1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 spring onions, very thinly sliced

Dipping sauce

500 ml (2 cups) dashi

125 ml (½ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

125 ml (½ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

salt or sugar, to taste (optional)

To make the dipping sauce, put the dashi, shoyu and mirin into a small saucepan, stir to combine, and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and cool. Taste, and add salt or sugar as desired. Set aside.

Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and add the soba. When the water returns to the boil, add 250 ml (1 cup) cold water. Bring to the boil again and cook for about 2 minutes, or until the noodles are just tender. Rinse under cold running water until they are quite cool. Drain well.

Toast the nori over an open flame or under a hot griller (broiler) until crisp. Put the noodles on plates and crumble the nori over the top. Mix together the ginger and spring onion and put a small portion on each plate. The ginger mixture is stirred into the dipping sauce and the noodles are dipped in the sauce before eating.

SUSHI

Rice with vinegar and sugar

Sushi is simply rice flavoured with a vinegar and sugar dressing and rolled around fillings or enclosed in omelettes or bean curd.

550 g (2½ cups) short-grain rice

5 cm piece kombu (dried kelp), rinsed and drained (optional)

Sushi dressing

80 ml (⅓ cup) rice vinegar or mild white vinegar

60 g (¼ cup) sugar

2½ teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons mirin (sweet rice wine)

Wash the rice well and drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Put the rice into a heavy-based saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, add 625 ml (2½ cups) cold water and the kombu, if using. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes without lifting the lid. Remove from the heat and let the rice stand, still covered, for a further 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dressing. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and stir until the sugar is completely dissolved.

Discard the kombu and turn the rice out into a large bowl. Pour the dressing over the rice and mix gently but thoroughly and cool quickly to room temperature. Traditionally, this is done by fanning the rice as you turn it with a paddle, being careful not to damage the grains.

FUKUSA ZUSHI

Sushi wrapped in omelette

MAKES: ABOUT 8

½ quantity chirashi-zushi

4 eggs, lightly beaten

½ teaspoon salt

a few drops of sesame oil or vegetable oil, for cooking

thin strips of dried nori

Press the chirashi-zushi firmly into a square or rectangular casserole dish or cake tin to a depth of 2.5 cm. Weight it down and leave while cooking the omelette.

Season the egg with the salt and stir in 2 tablespoons water. Cook the egg in a lightly oiled pan to make eight thin omelettes. Cook over low heat and do not allow the omelettes to brown.

Cut the pressed sushi into eight 5 cm square portions. Put a square of sushi in the centre of each omelette and roll up or fold over to enclose the rice. Wrap a thin strip of nori around each parcel and arrange on a serving plate, seam side down. Serve cold.

INARI-ZUSHI

Sushi in fried bean curd

MAKES: 12–16

In Japanese grocery stores you can buy sheets of aburage (dried bean curd). These form ‘pockets’, which are filled with sushi. Use half as many sheets of aburage as the number of inari-zushi you want, as each sheet makes two.

6–8 sheets of aburage (fried bean curd)

boiling water

shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

mirin (sweet rice wine) or dry sherry

125 ml (½ cup) dashi or chicken stock (optional)

1 tablespoon sugar

1 quantity sushi (opposite)

Put the aburage in a colander and pour over boiling water to make it less oily. Press out most of the water by rolling in paper towel. Sprinkle a few drops of shoyu and mirin over each sheet to give it flavour. Alternatively, put the aburage in a saucepan with simmering dashi, 2 tablespoons shoyu, 1 tablespoon mirin and 1 tablespoon sugar until all of the liquid has been absorbed by the bean curd. Press out any excess moisture by rolling in paper towel.

Cut the aburage sheets in half and pull the sides apart to make a pocket. Spoon the sushi into each pocket so that it is three-quarters full, then fold the cut ends over to enclose the filling. Serve on a tray, folded side down.

CHIRASHI-ZUSHI

Rice with seafood and vegetables

SERVES: 6

There are no hard and fast rules for making this Japanese version of a rice salad — add whatever ingredients are readily available for a colourful and easy main dish.

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

1 teaspoon sugar

2 eggs, lightly beaten

a pinch of salt

vegetable oil, for frying

1 quantity sushi, cooled

70 g (½ cup) cooked crab meat or small chopped prawns

100 g (½ cup) thinly sliced sashimi-grade raw fish (optional)

100 g (⅔ cup) thinly sliced bamboo shoot

80 g (½ cup) cooked peas

1 piece tinned or frozen lotus root, sliced

1 tablespoon pickled kombu (dried kelp), thinly sliced

1 tablespoon pickled daikon (takuan), thinly sliced

pickled ginger (beni shoga), to garnish

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, reserving 125 ml (½ cup) of the soaking liquid, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Put the reserved soaking liquid into a saucepan with the shoyu and sugar. Add the mushroom and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the liquid has been absorbed.

Season the egg with the salt and cook in a lightly oiled pan to make a thin omelette, taking care not to let it brown. Cool, then cut into thin shreds.

Put the rice in a large bowl and toss gently with all of the ingredients, reserving a few of the most colourful for garnish. Serve cold.

NIGIRI ZUSHI

Rice with raw fish

MAKES: ABOUT 24

1 quantity sushi and dressing

500 g sashimi-grade tuna or salmon (see note)

2 teaspoons wasabi paste

pickled ginger (beni shoga), to serve

Prepare the rice according to the recipe and reserve 2 tablespoons of the dressing, flavouring the sushi with the remainder.

Cut the fish into very thin slices with a sharp knife, angling the knife so that the slices are larger than they would be if cut straight. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed.

In a bowl, combine the reserved sushi dressing with 2 tablespoons cold water and use it to moisten your hands before starting to shape the rice. Take a rounded tablespoon of sushi at a time and form each into a neat oval shape. They should be a little smaller than the slices of fish, so that the fish completely covers one side of the rice.

In a bowl, combine the wasabi paste with 2 teaspoons cold water to make a dressing. Spread each slice of fish with a little wasabi dressing and put it, dressing side down, on the rice. Mould to a neat shape. Repeat with the remaining rice and fish. Arrange on a tray and serve garnished with the pickled ginger.

Note: Sashimi-grade tuna or salmon are prime cuts of very fresh fish. Snapper or bream may be used if it is very fresh and has never been frozen. Sushi can also be made with cooked prawns. You will need to peel and devein them and split them in half lengthways so they are butterflied before placing over the rice. If squid is used, cut the tubes into pieces just large enough to cover the mounds of rice. Blanch in boiling water for 1 minute. Drain, cool and place over the rice. Decorate with a strip of nori.

NORIMAKI ZUSHI

Sushi rolled in seaweed

MAKES: ABOUT 36

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

2 tablespoons shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

1 tablespoon sugar

2 eggs, lightly beaten

¼ teaspoon salt

a few drops of sesame oil or vegetable oil, for cooking

1 telegraph (long) cucumber

1 small piece pickled daikon (takuan)

125 g sashimi-grade fish fillets, such as tuna, bonito or kingfish

1 teaspoon wasabi paste

6 sheets nori

1 quantity sushi

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, reserving 125 ml (½ cup) of the soaking liquid, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Put the reserved soaking liquid into a saucepan with the shoyu and sugar. Add the mushroom and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the liquid has been absorbed.

Season the egg with the salt and cook in a lightly oiled pan to make a thin omelette, taking care not to let it brown. Cool, then cut into thin shreds.

Peel the cucumber leaving a trace of green skin. Cut lengthways in strips the size of a pencil. Drain the pickled daikon and cut in similar-sized strips. Cut the fish in strips and smear with the wasabi.

Toast the nori sheets over an open flame or place under a hot griller (broiler) until crisp.

Put a sheet of nori on a bamboo sushi mat, or on a clean linen napkin. Divide the rice into six equal portions and spread one portion evenly over two-thirds of each nori sheet, starting at the end nearest you. In a row across the middle of the rice put one of the ingredients or a combination of ingredients. Roll up the sushi in the mat, keeping firm pressure on the rice so that a neatly packed cylinder results. Let the rolls rest for 10 minutes before cutting into about six pieces per roll. Arrange on a platter with extra wasabi, pickled ginger and soy sauce to accompany.

URAMAKI

California rolls

MAKES: ABOUT 8

This is an inside out sushi roll — the seaweed, which encloses a filling, is wrapped in rice then coated with caviar. I think I like flying fish (tobiko) roe best for its resilient crunch. The tiny eggs literally pop between the teeth. It comes in a choice of colours — orange (natural) and green (wasabi) are the most popular.

8–10 sheets nori

1 quantity sushi rice with 2 tablespoons sushi dressing

2 ripe but firm avocados

250 g (1½ cups) crab meat

Japanese mayonnaise

125 g caviar, preferably flying fish roe (tobiko)

Cover a bamboo mat with plastic wrap to minimise sticking.

Toast the nori sheets over an open flame or place under a hot griller (broiler) until crisp.

Lay a sheet of nori on the bamboo mat and cover with a thin layer of sushi rice. To do this most efficiently, wet your hands first so that the rice doesn’t stick to them and spread evenly with your fingers, without mashing the grains. Flip the seaweed over, rice side down, on the mat.

Arrange slices of avocado lengthways along the centre of the nori. Squeeze a little Japanese mayonnaise in a line alongside the avocado and top with the crab meat. Roll up, starting at the edge nearest you, by lifting the mat to get it started and continue rolling away from you, peeling back the mat as you go. Coat the finished roll in caviar, pressing it on firmly until it sticks to the rice. Cut each roll into slices to reveal the contrasting colours. Serve cold.

BEEF TATAKI WITH PONZU SAUCE

Rare seared beef

SERVES: 4

This beef dish is served cold as an appetiser. Sashimi-grade tuna fillet can be used instead of the beef but it will need to be seared very briefly before serving.

250 g porterhouse steak, about 5 cm thick

1 tablespoon light olive oil

3 spring onions, very thinly sliced

Ponzu sauce

125 ml (½ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

6 g (½ cup) bonito flakes (katsuobushi)

1 tablespoon mirin (sweet rice wine)

60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice

Put the steak in a bowl, pour over the oil and turn to coat all over.

Heat a cast-iron frying pan over high heat and when very hot place the steak in the pan and cook for 1½–2 minutes — do not turn during this time. Once the time is up, turn it and cook for a further 1–2 minutes — the meat will be very rare. Remove to a plate and allow to cool completely.

To make the ponzu sauce, put the shoyu in a stainless steel saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the bonito flakes, then turn off the heat and leave to cool. Add the mirin and lemon juice and then strain into an airtight jar and refrigerate until ready to use. Ponzu sauce can be stored for up to 10 days.

Place the steak on a board, trim away any sinew, then cut into thin slices, about 2 mm thick. Arrange on a serving platter so that the slices just overlap. Scatter over the spring onion and about 80 ml (⅓ cup) of the ponzu sauce.

Variation: To be completely authentic use yuzu juice to make the ponzu sauce instead of lemon juice. This Japanese citrus is not yet available fresh in Australia, and the bottled juice is both hard to find and prohibitively expensive. A combination of lemon juice, lime juice and a little grapefruit juice also makes a very acceptable substitute.

GYOZA

Fried and steamed dumplings

SERVES: 6

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

225 g (3 cups) shredded Chinese cabbage (wong bok)

½ teaspoon salt

350 g minced (ground) pork

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

6 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon finely chopped coriander leaves

2 teaspoons miso (fermented soy bean paste)

1 teaspoon sesame oil, plus 1 tablespoon extra

½ teaspoon dried chilli flakes or ⅛ teaspoon chilli powder

¼ teaspoon sugar

48 round gyoza wrappers

chilli dipping sauce or ponzu sauce (opposite), to serve

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, reserving 125 ml (½ cup) of the soaking liquid, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Put the cabbage and salt in a large bowl and leave for 15 minutes. Squeeze out any excess liquid by hand, then place in a large bowl with the pork, mushroom, ginger, spring onion, coriander, miso, sesame oil, chilli and sugar. Knead well until thoroughly mixed.

Lay the wrappers out on a clean work surface and place a rounded teaspoon in the centre of each. Moisten the edges, fold over and pinch and pleat to enclose the filling, working from the centre out so they resemble a crescent-shaped pouch. Set aside on a tray lined with baking paper. Repeat until all used.

Heat a little sesame oil in the base of a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Fry the dumplings, pleat side up, in batches, until brown on the base, until all are cooked.

Return the dumplings to the pan so they are close but not touching, add the remaining sesame oil and reserved soaking liquid, cover, and steam over low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the wrappers become semi-transparent. Remove the lid and continue cooking until all of the liquid has been absorbed, shaking the pan as needed to prevent the dumplings from sticking. Serve hot with chilli dipping sauce or ponzu sauce.

DASHI

Dashi stock

MAKES: 1.5 LITRES (6 CUPS)

Dashi is basic to Japanese cooking and is quickly and easily made. It may be kept refrigerated for up to 2 days, so if you have surplus freeze it. Even simpler to prepare (and useful to have on hand) is instant dashi, sold in packets.

5 cm square kombu (dried kelp), rinsed and drained

3 tablespoons bonito flakes (katsuobushi)

Put 1.5 litres (6 cups) water in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Stir in the kombu and boil for 1 minute, then remove the kombu from the water and add the bonito flakes. Bring back to the boil, then remove from the heat immediately. Leave for a few minutes until the flakes settle, then strain and use as required.

Chicken stock

MAKES: 1.5 LITRES (6 CUPS)

When a different flavour is preferred, or if ingredients for dashi cannot be obtained, use this Japanese-style chicken stock in place of the more traditional dashi.

1 kg chicken bones or carcase

3–4 large slices fresh ginger

1½ teaspoons salt

2 spring onions

Put the chicken bones into a large saucepan with all of the other ingredients and 2 litres (8 cups) water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 1 hour, skimming to remove any scum from the surface. Remove from the heat, then strain into a clean bowl or saucepan. Chill so that any fat solidifies on the surface and can be removed before using — the stock should be very clear.

SAKANA USHIOJIRU

Fish broth

SERVES: 4

500 g bones, head and trimmings of any delicate fish

2 slices fresh ginger

1 spring onion, cut into 4 pieces, plus 1 tablespoon thinly sliced spring onion, extra

1 tablespoon shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

1 tablespoon sake

4 slices raw fish (optional)

Put the fish bones, head and trimmings into a saucepan with 1.5 litres (6 cups) water, the ginger and spring onion. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 10–15 minutes, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface.

Remove from the heat, allow to cool slightly and then strain into a clean pan. Stir in the shoyu, sake and salt, to taste.

To serve, heat the soup to boiling and stir in the extra spring onion. Remove from the heat immediately and serve. If liked, a thin slice of raw fish can be put in each bowl and the boiling broth ladled over.

KAKEJIRU

Soup for noodles

MAKES: 1.75 LITRES (7 CUPS)

This is the basic stock in which noodles of all kinds may be served. If preferred, clear chicken stock may be substituted for the dashi.

1.5 litres (6 cups) dashi

125 ml (½ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

125 ml (½ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

Put the dashi, mirin and shoyu into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste and add extra salt if necessary.

SUMASHI WAN

Prawn and tofu soup

SERVES: 6

1 small carrot

1.5 litres (6 cups) dashi

6 raw prawns, peeled and deveined

100 g silken tofu, sliced

watercress sprigs, to garnish

Peel the carrot and cut off both ends so you are left with a straight cross-section. With a sharp cleaver remove narrow V-shaped strips the length of the carrot at regular intervals, then slice across very thinly to make flower shapes. Drop into boiling water for 1 minute, then drain and refresh in iced water. Set aside for garnish.

Put the dashi into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the prawns and simmer for 1 minute, then add the tofu and bring back to the boil. Remove from the heat and ladle carefully into soup bowls, putting a prawn and a slice of tofu in each bowl. Fill the bowls with stock, then garnish each with a sprig of watercress and one or two carrot slices. Serve immediately.

MISO SHIRU

Bean paste soup

SERVES: 4

1.25 litres (5 cups) dashi

2 tablespoons miso (fermented soy bean paste)

100 g silken tofu, cut into quarters

2 spring onions, sliced diagonally

2 fresh shiitake or button mushrooms, sliced

Put the dashi into a saucepan and bring to the boil.

In a bowl, combine the miso with some of the hot liquid, stirring until smooth. Pour back into the saucepan, stir well, then add the tofu and spring onion and return to the boil for a few seconds only.

Ladle the soup into bowls, garnish with mushroom slices and serve hot.

NABEY AKI UDON

Hearty noodle soup

SERVES: 6

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

500 g udon (thick wheat noodles)

1.5 litres (6 cups) kakejiru (soup for noodles)

1 large chicken breast fillet, thinly sliced

1 Japanese-style fish cake (kamaboko), sliced

12 cooked large prawns, peeled and deveined, tails left intact, to garnish

2 spring onions, thinly sliced diagonally

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and add the udon noodles. When the water returns to the boil add 250 ml (1 cup) cold water. Bring to the boil again and cook until the udon noodles are just tender, being careful not to overcook. Rinse under cold running water to cool them and drain well.

Put the kakejiru in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the mushroom and chicken and simmer for 3 minutes, then add the noodles and heat through. Add the fish cake, prawns and spring onion, cover, and simmer for a further 1–2 minutes for the prawns to heat through. Serve immediately.

KAKITAMA-JIRU

Egg flower soup

SERVES: 4

Poetically named for the texture the beaten egg takes on as it sets in the boiling stock.

1.25 litres (5 cups) dashi or chicken stock

8 snow peas (mangetout), trimmed or 1 stick celery, sliced

2 tablespoons shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

2 eggs, lightly beaten

½ teaspoon salt

Put the dashi in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the snow peas and once the liquid returns to the boil, cook for 1 minute, then add the shoyu.

Season the egg with the salt and pour slowly into the boiling stock, stirring gently so it sets in shreds. Ladle into soup bowls and serve immediately.

KEN CHIN-JIRU (1)

Chicken and vegetable soup

SERVES: 6

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

1.75 litres (7 cups) dashi or chicken stock

1 small carrot, cut into thin matchsticks

1 stick celery, cut into thin matchsticks

½ large daikon, cut into thin matchsticks

200 g chicken thigh or breast fillets, diced

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps.

Put the mushroom and dashi into a saucepan and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the carrot, celery, daikon and chicken and cook for 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt, to taste. Serve hot.

KENCHIN-JIRU (2)

Chicken and vegetable soup

SERVES: 6

More suited to Western tastes than the previous recipe, this version of kenchin-jiru is based on chicken stock and uses button mushrooms instead of shiitake. Any thick stalks from the watercress may be added to the simmering stock and strained off before serving.

1.5 litres (6 cups) chicken stock

1 small chicken breast fillet, diced

125 g button mushrooms, sliced if large

1 spring onion, cut into short lengths

a few watercress sprigs, to garnish

Put the chicken stock into a saucepan and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, add the chicken and simmer for about 3 minutes.

Add the mushrooms and spring onion to the pan and bring back to the boil. Remove from the heat, divide among soup bowls and garnish with the watercress sprigs.

SABA NO SUTATAKI

Mackerel in vinegar marinade

SERVES: 4

500 g mackerel fillets salt

125 ml (½ cup) mild white vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

4 tablespoons finely grated daikon

4 tablespoons finely grated carrot

watercress or parsley sprigs, to garnish

wasabi paste, to serve

Dipping sauce

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

60 ml (¼ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

2 tablespoons mild white vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

Rub the mackerel fillets liberally with salt and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or overnight. Remove any bones, rinse off any excess salt, then thinly slice the fish.

In a bowl, combine the vinegar, sugar and 2 tablespoons cold water, then add to the fish and toss to coat. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

Arrange the fish slices on individual plates, put a tablespoon each of grated daikon and carrot on each plate and garnish with watercress or parsley.

To make the dipping sauce, combine the ginger, shoyu, vinegar and sugar in a bowl, stirring well. Serve the fish and vegetables with small bowls of the dipping sauce and wasabi.

SAKANA NO GINGAMI YAKI

Seafood and vegetables in foil

SERVES: 4

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

4 firm white fish fillets

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sake

8 raw large prawns

12 ginkgo nuts

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, then cut off and discard the stems and thinly slice the caps. Preheat the oven to 170°C (Gas 3).

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Sprinkle the salt over the fish, pour over the sake and leave to marinate for 10 minutes.

Remove the prawn heads and cut along the back of the shell with a sharp knife so that the vein can be removed without peeling the prawn.

Take pieces of foil, about 25 cm square, and lightly oil one side. Put a fish fillet, 2 prawns, some mushroom and 3 ginkgo nuts on each square of foil. Fold the foil to form a parcel and bake in the oven for 20 minutes, or cook over coals on a barbecue or under a hot griller (broiler). Serve hot in the foil parcel.

SASHIMI

Raw fish

SERVES: 1

Use only the freshest seafood for this Japanese delicacy. Buy whole fish or sashimi-grade fillets. Far from being strong or fishy, the flavour is indescribably delicate. Wasabi is served with the fish and each person mixes some with soy sauce for dipping the fish in before eating.

For each serving

125 g sashimi-grade tuna or salmon fillets, or very fresh whole bonito, mackerel, jewfish or squid

1 tablespoon grated daikon

1 tablespoon grated carrot

shiso leaves or watercress sprigs, to serve (optional)

lemon slices, to serve

1 teaspoon wasabi paste

shoyu (Japanese soy sauce), to serve

mirin (sweet rice wine) or dry sherry, to serve

If using whole fish, fillet the fish, removing all bones. Carefully cut away the skin. With a sharp knife, and handling the fish as little as possible, cut the fillet into thin slices and arrange on a serving plate. Tuna and bonito are suitable for cutting into small cubes; cut small fish or squid into thin strips.

Serve the fish with the daikon and carrot, decorate the plate with a shiso leaf or a watercress sprig and a slice of lemon or yuzu, if you can get it.

Accompany each serving with a dab of wasabi and a sauce dish holding shoyu or a mixture of shoyu and mirin.

HARUSAME TEMPURA

Deep-fried seafood

SERVES: 4

Harusame are fine, translucent noodles, the Japanese equivalent of cellophane (bean starch) noodles. In this version of tempura, the ingredients are dipped first in cornflour, then in egg white and finally in harusame noodles snipped into small pieces. When deep-fried, the noodles expand in spectacular fashion and form a crisp coating for the seafood, making an eye-catching as well as tasty appetiser.

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

1 tablespoon shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

1 tablespoon mirin (sweet rice wine)

½ teaspoon salt

12 raw prawns, peeled and deveined, tails left intact

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

60 g (½ cup) cornflour

2 egg whites, beaten until frothy

1½ cups finely snipped harusame noodles (they should be no more than 1 cm long)

tempura sauce or salt for dipping

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut each fillet lengthways into narrow strips, then into bite-sized lengths.

In a bowl, combine the shoyu, mirin and salt. Add the fish and prawns and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

Heat the vegetable oil in a large heavy-based frying pan to about 180°C. Roll each piece of seafood first in cornflour, dusting off any excess, then in egg white, then in harusame noodles to coat. Lower the seafood into the hot oil and deepfry, in batches, for about 1 minute, or until crisp. The noodles will puff and swell immediately on being immersed in the hot oil; if they do not, it means the oil is not hot enough and the harusame will be tough and leathery. Remove from the oil using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Serve hot with the tempura sauce or sea salt for dipping.

TEMPURA

Deep-fried seafood and vegetables

SERVES: 4

Perhaps the most popular of all Japanese dishes among Western people, good tempura should be crisp, light, the batter a mere wisp that covers the food. It should never be the heavy coating found on traditional English-style fried fish (as in ‘fish and chips’). A Japanese chef told me that the secret is to have both food and batter very cold and that the batter must be freshly made and not allowed to stand for too long. Tempura is best served the moment it is ready, so cooking at the table in an electric frying pan or deep-fryer is particularly suitable.

12–16 raw prawns, peeled and deveined, tails left intact

500 g skinless, boneless firm white fish fillets

350 g frozen lotus root, peeled and thinly sliced

1 eggplant (aubergine), halved and cut into 5 mm slices

1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into 5 mm slices

90 g (2 cups) baby spinach leaves

8 spring onions, cut into short lengths

250 g fresh mushrooms, halved or quartered if large

4 tablespoons grated daikon, to serve

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger, to serve

750 ml (3 cups) vegetable oil

125 ml (½ cup) sesame oil

Tempura batter

1 egg

250 ml (1 cup) ice-cold water

a pinch of bicarbonate of soda

110 g (¾ cup) plain flour or tempura flour

Tempura sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

2 tablespoons shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

250 ml (1 cup) dashi

1 pinch of salt

Prepare the prawns, fish and all of the vegetables in advance. Arrange on a tray, cover, and refrigerate until serving time.

The table setting for each person is a plate lined with a paper napkin for draining the fried food, a small bowl for the sauce and another small bowl with 1 tablespoon of grated daikon and 2 teaspoons of grated fresh ginger.

To make the tempura sauce, heat the mirin in a small saucepan, remove from the heat and ignite with a match. Shake the pan gently until the flame dies, then add all of the other ingredients and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature, taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Set aside.

No more than 10 minutes before serving, make the tempura batter and stand the bowl in a larger bowl containing ice. Break the egg into a bowl with the iced water and beat until frothy. Add the bicarbonate of soda and flour and beat just until the flour is mixed in — do not overmix. The batter should be thin; if it seems too thick, add a few drops of iced water.

Heat the vegetable and sesame oils in a large heavy-based frying pan, electric frying pan or deep-fryer to 180°C. If sesame oil is not available it may be omitted, but it gives a deliciously nutty flavour to the food.

Dip pieces of fish, prawns and vegetables, one at a time, into the batter and then gently lower into the oil. Do not fry more than about six pieces at a time, as the temperature of the oil must be kept moderately high for best results. As each piece turns golden (this should take only 1 minute) lift it from the oil with a slotted spoon, drain for a few seconds on paper towel, then serve immediately. Food is dipped in the tempura sauce and eaten while crisp and hot. The daikon and ginger are mixed into the sauce to suit individual taste.

Variation: A good way to use up any leftover tempura ingredients is to make tempura domburi (tendon). This is where the tempura ingredients are served with rice and sauce. Simply prepare 1 quantity hot cooked rice and re-fry the tempura above briefly to heat through. Put the rice in individual bowls, top with the tempura and serve with any leftover sauce on the side.

YOSEN ABE

Simmered seafood and vegetables

SERVES: 6

Other varieties of fish or vegetables as available may be substituted for those in this recipe.

500 g snapper or bream fillets

1 lobster tail

60 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles

2 litres (8 cups) dashi or chicken stock

2 carrots, sliced

1 small piece kombu (dried kelp) (optional)

shoyu (Japanese soy sauce), to taste

a few baby spinach leaves

6 fresh shiitake or button mushrooms, sliced

6 spring onions, cut into short lengths

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into 2.5 cm pieces. With a sharp cleaver, cut the lobster tail into slices, then cut each large slice into halves.

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain well and cut into short lengths.

Put the noodles into a saucepan with the dashi, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the carrot, kombu and shoyu and continue simmering for a further 2 minutes. Add the fish, lobster, spinach, mushroom and spring onion and continue to simmer for 5 minutes or until everything is just cooked. Serve in soup bowls accompanied by small dishes of dipping sauce as served with zaru soba (chilled noodles).

KINOME YAKI

Grilled marinated fish

SERVES: 4

2 large oily fish steaks, such as tuna or mackerel

80 ml (⅓ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

2 tablespoons mirin (sweet rice wine)

2 tablespoons sake

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon sugar

Garnish

pickled ginger (beni shoga), spring onions or cucumber, thinly sliced

60 ml (¼ cup) white vinegar

55 g (¼ cup) sugar

1 teaspoon shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

1 teaspoon salt

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut each fish steak into 4 even-sized pieces.

In a bowl, combine the shoyu, mirin and sake. Squeeze the juice from the fresh ginger into this mixture, discarding the fibres. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Add the fish and leave to marinate for about 30 minutes.

Prepare the garnish by combining the vinegar, sugar, shoyu and salt in a bowl. Add the ginger, spring onion or cucumber and leave to marinate while cooking the fish.

Preheat the griller (broiler) and cook the fish about 10 cm away from the heat source for 5–7 minutes, brushing two or three times with the marinade. Turn the fish and grill the other side — the fish should have a rich glaze of marinade. Serve immediately with the prepared garnish.

OBORO

Rice with chicken and mushrooms

SERVES: 6

8 dried shiitake mushrooms

2 eggs, lightly beaten

⅓ teaspoon salt

80 ml (⅓ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

80 ml (⅓ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

2 tablespoons sugar

375 g chicken breast fillet, thinly sliced

1 quantity cooked rice, to serve

140 g (1 cup) cooked green peas, to serve

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, reserving 185 ml (¾ cup) of the soaking liquid, then cut off and discard the stems.

Season the egg with the salt and cook in a lightly greased frying pan to make two or three large, thin omelettes, taking care not to brown them. Remove to a plate and when cool cut into fine strips. Set aside Put the mushrooms in a small saucepan with 125 ml (½ cup) of the reserved soaking liquid, 2 tablespoons each of the shoyu and mirin, and 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Bring to the boil, cover, and cook until the liquid is almost completely evaporated. Remove the mushrooms to a plate and allow to cool.

Add the remaining shoyu, mirin and sugar to the same pan, then add the remaining mushroom soaking liquid and the chicken and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave covered.

Spoon the hot rice into a large domburi or earthenware bowl with a lid, arrange the chicken over the top and spoon over the cooking liquid. Slice the mushrooms and scatter over the chicken, then garnish with the omelette strips and peas and serve hot.

YAKITORI DOMBURI

Rice with fried chicken

SERVES: 6

1.2 kg whole chicken

125 ml (½ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

125 ml (½ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil

3 teaspoons sugar

3 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 quantity cooked rice, to serve

Joint the chicken and cut into serving pieces.

In a bowl, combine the shoyu, mirin, garlic and ginger. Add the chicken, reserving the chicken back and wing tips to make a stock. Turn to coat the chicken and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

Put the chicken back and wing tips in a saucepan with enough water to cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 hours. Strain the stock into a clean saucepan — you should be left with about 750 ml (3 cups) stock.

Drain the chicken well, reserving the marinade. Heat the vegetable oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Add the chicken and cook until golden brown. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, then cut the meat into bite-sized pieces.

Add the reserved marinade and sugar to the pan with the stock, bring to the boil and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the spring onion to combine, then remove from the heat.

Arrange the hot cooked rice in a large bowl or individual bowls and arrange the chicken on top. Pour the sauce over the rice and chicken and serve immediately.

TORI TERIYAKI

Grilled marinated chicken

SERVES: 6

1.5 kg whole chicken

125 ml (½ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

125 ml (½ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

2 tablespoons sugar

1 garlic clove, crushed with a pinch of salt

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

a few drops of sesame oil or vegetable oil

Joint the chicken, then, with a heavy cleaver, cut each drumstick and thigh in half. Cut the breasts in half lengthways, then cut each half across into three pieces. Wings are cut into three at the joints, and the tips discarded or put into the stock pot. The back may be cut across into four pieces, or used for stock if preferred.

In a bowl, combine the shoyu, mirin, sugar, garlic, ginger and sesame oil. Add the chicken pieces and toss to coat, then leave to marinate for at least 1 hour, turning regularly so all the chicken is covered. Drain well, reserving the marinade.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (Gas 6). Grease a large baking dish and arrange the chicken in a single layer. Roast in the oven for 15 minutes, then turn each piece of chicken over and roast for a further 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 170°C (Gas 3). Drain the fat from the baking dish, and spoon some of the marinade over the chicken. Continue cooking for a further 20–25 minutes, basting with the marinade every 10 minutes, until the chicken is tender, well glazed and browned. Serve hot with rice, or cold as an appetiser or picnic food.

Note: To cook chicken teriyaki in a frying pan, drain the pieces of chicken well, reserving the marinade. Dry the chicken on paper towel and pierce the skin a few times with a fork. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large heavy-based frying pan and cook the chicken, skin side down first, then turning until brown on both sides. Drain off the oil, add half of the marinade to the pan, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until the chicken is almost tender. Uncover and cook for a further 5 minutes or until the chicken is well glazed and brown and the marinade is quite thick.

TATSUTA AGE

Marinated fried chicken

SERVES: 4

500 g chicken thigh fillets

60 ml (¼ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

2 tablespoons sake

2 teaspoons sugar

60 g (½ cup) cornflour

oil, for deep frying

Cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces.

In a bowl, combine the shoyu, sake and sugar. Add the chicken, toss to coat and leave to marinate for at least 1 hour.

Drain the chicken, then roll each piece in cornflour to coat and set aside for 10 minutes.

Heat the oil in a frying pan to 180°C and deep-fry the chicken, in batches, for about 2–3 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp. Drain on paper towel and serve hot.

TORIMAKI

Chicken omelette

SERVES: 2

3 eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons dashi or water

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

vegetable or sesame oil, for frying

2 spring onions, thinly sliced into strips, to garnish

Chicken filling

90 g (½ cup) finely chopped cooked chicken

2 teaspoons shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

2 teaspoons mirin (sweet rice wine)

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

In a bowl, combine the egg, dashi, salt and shoyu and stir to combine.

To make the chicken filling, put the chicken, shoyu, mirin and sugar into a separate bowl. Squeeze in the juice from the ginger, discarding the fibres. Stir well to combine.

Heat a few drops of the oil in an omelette pan over low heat. Pour in the egg and cook until set on the bottom, but liquid on top. Put the chicken filling in a neat line across the omelette and roll the egg mixture firmly around it, away from you. Remove to a plate and serve immediately, garnished with spring onion.

Note: This chicken omelette may also be rolled in a bamboo mat, left until cool and firm, then unrolled, sliced and served as hors d’oeuvres.

DASHIMAKI TAMAGO

Rolled omelette

SERVES: 4

Japanese omelette pans are rectangular. If you can get one it will make your rolled omelettes easier to handle and neater in appearance, but a regular frying pan can be used quite successfully.

2 teaspoons sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

125 ml (½ cup) dashi

2 teaspoons shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

5 eggs, lightly beaten

sesame oil, for cooking

parsley sprigs, to garnish

In a bowl, dissolve the sugar and salt in the dashi, then stir in the shoyu and egg.

Heat a few drops of oil in an omelette pan over low heat. Pour in one-third of the egg mixture and tilt the pan so the egg covers the base. Cook until just set — the omelette must not brown. Once cooked, keep the omelette in the pan and roll it away from you. When the omelette is completely rolled up, lightly grease the pan again, slide the omelette towards you and grease that part of the pan where the omelette was. Pour in half the remaining egg mixture and lift the egg roll so the uncooked egg can cover the base of the pan. Cook as before and roll again, this time rolling the first omelette within the second one.

Repeat as before, using the remaining beaten egg. Turn the omelette onto a bamboo mat or a clean tea towel and roll the omelette firmly. Leave it for 10 minutes to cool and compress, then remove the mat and cut the rolled egg into thick slices. Serve garnished with the parsley.

GOMA YAKI

Fried chicken with sesame

SERVES: 4

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

4 chicken breast fillets, preferably with skin on

80 ml (⅓ cup) sake

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

1 tablespoon sesame oil

4 crisp lettuce leaves

Toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan over medium heat, stirring constantly, until they are golden. Remove to a plate to cool.

Prick the skin of the chicken several times with a skewer.

In a bowl, combine the sake, salt and shoyu. Add the chicken and turn to coat both sides, then set aside for 30 minutes.

Heat the sesame oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the chicken and cook until brown on both sides. Reduce the heat and cook for 4–5 minutes, or until cooked through. Cut each chicken breast into slices and put back together in shape. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve each chicken breast on a lettuce leaf.

KUYA MUSHI

Steamed egg custard with tofu

SERVES: 4

250 g silken tofu

8 small button mushrooms, sliced

45 g (1 cup) watercress sprigs, or baby spinach leaves, cut into 5 cm lengths

Custard

4 eggs

625 ml (2½ cups) dashi or chicken stock

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

2 tablespoons sake or mirin (sweet rice wine)

Drain the tofu on paper towel for 10 minutes. Cut the tofu into 8 equal squares. Put two tofu squares each in the base of four chawan mushi cups or 185 ml (¾ cup) capacity ramekins. Divide the mushroom between the cups.

Blanch the watercress or spinach in a saucepan of lightly salted boiling water for 1 minute, then refresh under cold running water and drain well. Pat dry with paper towel, press the watercress into four neat portions and set aside.

To make the custard, lightly beat the eggs just until the whites and yolks are mixed. Stir in the dashi, salt, shoyu and sake, then strain the custard and pour over the tofu and mushroom in each ramekin, skimming off any bubbles. Cover the cups with lids or foil.

Put the cups in a saucepan and pour in enough water to come halfway up the sides of the cups. Cover the pan with a folded tea towel and then with the lid. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1o minutes. After this time, place a portion of the blanched watercress or spinach into each cup, pushing it under the surface of the custard. Replace the covers or foil and continue steaming until the custard is firm. Alternatively, place the cups in a large baking tray and fill the tray with water to come halfway up the sides of the cups. Cook in a 160°C (Gas 2–3) oven for 25 minutes. Serve hot.

CHAWAN MUSHI

Steamed egg custard with seafood

SERVES: 4

This savoury egg custard is regarded as a soup in Japan and is ideal as a light lunch or supper dish. If you want to make a single portion, beat the egg in the cup in which it will be cooked (Japanese cooks use chopsticks for this), pour in stock to three-quarters fill the cup and add salt, shoyu and sake, to taste. Add other ingredients as available —it’s a good way to use up a few prawns or oysters. In summer these custard soups may be served cold. They are the only soups that are eaten with a spoon.

4 dried shiitake mushrooms

2 tablespoons shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

1 tablespoon sugar

4 fresh oysters or 4 thin slices fresh tuna

4 small prawns, peeled and deveined or 8 slices Japanese-style fish cake (kamaboko)

Custard

4 eggs

625 ml (2½ cups) dashi

1½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

2 tablespoons sake or mirin (sweet rice wine)

Soak the mushrooms in hot water for 20–30 minutes. Drain, reserving 125 ml (½ cup) of the soaking liquid, then cut off and discard the stems.

Put the mushroom caps in a small saucepan with the reserved soaking liquid, 1 tablespoon of the shoyu and the sugar and simmer for 8–10 minutes. If tuna is used, marinate for a few minutes in the remaining tablespoon of shoyu.

Into each of four chawan mushi cups or 250 ml (1 cup) capacity ramekins, put a mushroom, a prawn or 2 slices of fish cake, an oyster or a slice of marinated tuna.

To make the custard, lightly beat the eggs just until the whites and yolks are mixed. Stir in the dashi, salt, shoyu and sake, then strain the custard and pour into the cups. Cover with lids or foil.

Put the cups in a large saucepan and pour in enough water to come halfway up the sides of the cups. Cover the pan with a folded tea towel and then with the lid. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes, or until set. Alternatively, place the cups in a large baking tray and fill the tray with water to come halfway up the sides of the cups. Cook in a 160°C (Gas 2–3) oven for 25 minutes. Serve hot.

Note: If preferred, substitute thinly sliced chicken breast for the seafood. You will need 1 small chicken breast for this quantity.

TEPPANYAKI

Meat and seafood on the griddle

SERVES: 4

1 small garlic clove, crushed with 1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

500 g fillet steak, thinly sliced

vegetable oil, for cooking

1 large green capsicum (pepper), seeded and thinly sliced

1 small eggplant (aubergine), cut into thin rounds

8 large prawns, peeled and deveined, tails left intact

12 fresh oysters

Dipping sauce

125 ml (½ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

60 ml (¼ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

3 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

In a bowl, combine the garlic, ginger and shoyu. Add the beef, turning to coat, and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

To make the dipping sauce, combine the shoyu, mirin, sugar and ginger, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Divide among individual sauce bowls and set aside.

Heat a little vegetable oil on a griddle plate or in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Cook the capsicum and eggplant — capsicum first as it requires longer cooking. Add the beef, prawns and oysters as required, cooking only until just done — do not overcook.

To serve, dip the ingredients into the sauce and eat with hot white rice.

SUKIYAKI

Quick-cooked beef and vegetables

SERVES: 6

1 kg scotch fillet in one piece

60 g cellophane (bean starch) noodles or shirataki noodles

beef suet or vegetable oil, for cooking

12 spring onions, cut into short lengths

225 g winter bamboo shoots, rinsed, drained and thinly sliced

500 g fresh mushrooms, halved or quartered if large

2 onions, cut into eighths

230 g (2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, trimmed

½ small head Chinese cabbage (wong bok), chopped

shoyu (Japanese soy sauce), to taste

sugar, to taste

sake, to taste

beef stock, for cooking

6 pieces grilled pressed tofu (optional)

6 eggs (optional)

Partially freeze the beef then cut into paper-thin slices. Cook the noodles in a saucepan of boiling water until tender, then drain well and cut into short lengths. Set aside.

Heat the suet or vegetable oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add half of the spring onion, bamboo shoot, mushroom, onion, bean sprouts and cabbage to the pan and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes until just tender.

Push the vegetables to one side of the pan and add the meat in one layer. When cooked on one side turn and cook the other side. Sprinkle with shoyu, sugar and sake, to taste, then add a little stock to moisten all the meat and vegetables. Add the noodles and tofu, if using, and heat through. If using shirataki noodles, do not place beside the beef as they are said to toughen the meat.

Serve immediately straight from the pan. Traditionally, each diner breaks an egg into a bowl, beats it lightly with chopsticks, then dips the hot food into it before eating. Cook the remaining vegetables only after the first batch has been eaten. Serve with white rice.

GYUNIKU NO KUSHIYAKI

Beef and spring onions on skewers

SERVES: 4–6

500 g fillet or rump steak, cut into bite-sized cubes

6 spring onions, cut into short lengths

80 ml (⅓ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

2 tablespoons mirin (sweet rice wine)

1 teaspoon sugar

oil, for deep-frying

75 g (½ cup) plain flour

1 egg, well beaten

165 g (1½ cups) dry breadcrumbs

Soak 25 bamboo skewers in water to prevent them from burning during cooking.

Thread 3 or 4 pieces of beef and spring onion alternately onto the oiled bamboo skewers

In a large shallow dish, combine the shoyu, mirin and sugar. Add the skewers, turning to coat, and leave to marinate for at least 30 minutes, or longer if possible. Turn the skewers a few times to make sure all sides are covered.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan to 180°C. Drain the skewers, then dust lightly with flour, shaking off any excess. Dip each skewer into the egg and roll in the breadcrumbs to coat. Gently lower the skewers into the hot oil, a few at a time, and deep-fry until golden brown all over. Drain on paper towel and serve immediately with bowls of hot white rice.

GYUNIKU TERIYAKI

Grilled marinated beef

SERVES: 6

1 small garlic clove, crushed with ½ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

125 ml (½ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

125 ml (½ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

6 x 125 g fillet steaks

2 tablespoons oil

2 teaspoons sugar

80 ml (⅓ cup) water or dashi

1 teaspoon cornflour

In a bowl, combine the garlic, ginger, shoyu and mirin. Add the steak, turning to coat on both sides, then leave to marinate for about 30 minutes. Drain the steaks, reserving the marinade.

Heat the oil on a griddle plate or in a large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Cook the steaks for 1 minute, before turning to brown the other side. Reduce the heat and continue cooking until done.

Put the reserved marinade in a small saucepan with the sugar and water and bring to the boil.

In a small bowl, combine the cornflour and 80 ml (⅓ cup) cold water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the marinade and stir until the sauce boils and becomes clear, then spoon over the steaks. Serve immediately. For easy eating with chopsticks, the steaks should be cut into thin slices and assembled again in their original shape.

TONKATSU

Pork cutlets

SERVES: 4

‘Ton’ means pork, and ‘katsu’ is the Japanese pronunciation of cutlet. This is not a traditional dish, but one that has become tremendously popular in recent years. It is said that the Germans introduced this dish to Japan.

80 ml (⅓ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

80 ml (⅓ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 pinch of sansho (Japanese pepper) or black pepper

4 slices pork fillet or bolar blade, cut as for schnitzel

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon finely chopped spring onion

60 g (1 cup) panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) or fresh white breadcrumbs

oil, for shallow-frying

pickled ginger (beni shoga), to serve

In a bowl, combine the shoyu, mirin, garlic and sansho. Add the pork and turn to coat both sides, then leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

In a separate bowl, combine the egg and spring onion. Dip the pork first into the egg to coat, and then into the panko, pressing it on firmly. Refrigerate for 1 hour.

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Cook the pork until golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towel.

Cut each fillet into slices and assemble again in its original shape. Serve on white rice and garnish with the pickled ginger. A tempura-style dipping sauce may be served separately.

SHABU-SHABU

Simmered steak and vegetables

SERVES: 6–8

Shabu-shabu is the Japanese version of Mongolian ‘fire pot’ or Singapore ‘steamboat’. Guests cook their own meal at the table, holding pieces of steak and vegetables with chopsticks and dipping them into boiling stock. The name comes from the gentle swishing sound made as the food is cooked.

1 kg fillet steak

2 baby carrots, sliced into rounds

1 small head Chinese cabbage (wong bok), chopped

12 spring onions, cut into short lengths

500 g button mushrooms, stems removed and halved

2–2.5 litres (8–10 cups) chicken stock

Sesame seed sauce

75 g (½ cup) toasted, crushed sesame seeds

2 tablespoons rice vinegar or mild white vinegar

185 ml (¾ cup) shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onion

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

Partially freeze the steak, then cut into paper-thin slices and arrange on a serving platter. Cover and refrigerate. Blanch the carrot briefly in a saucepan of boiling water until just tender, refresh under cold running water and drain well. Arrange on a serving platter with the cabbage, spring onion and mushroom, cover and refrigerate. To make the sesame seed sauce combine all of the ingredients in a bowl.

When you are ready to serve, put the stock into a shabu-shabu cooker, put the lid on, and fill the chimney with glowing coals. Alternatively, heat an electric frying pan. Keep the stock simmering throughout the meal, adding more as necessary.

Ingredients are picked up with chopsticks and held in the boiling stock until just done, then transferred to individual bowls, dipped in the sauce and eaten with rice. Care should be taken not to overcook the meat and vegetables. Steak should be pale pink when cooked and vegetables tender but still crisp. When all the meat and vegetables are eaten the stock is served as a soup. The bowls should be lifted to the lips, Japanese-style, rather than using a spoon.

NASU DENGAKU

Grilled eggplant with miso

SERVES: 4

1 eggplant (aubergine), cut into 1.5 cm rounds or 6 small slender eggplants, halved lengthways

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons sweet white miso

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon mirin (sweet rice wine)

1 tablespoon sake or dry sherry

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

Lightly score the surface of the eggplant with the point of a sharp knife and then brush the surface very lightly with sesame oil.

In a bowl, combine all of the remaining ingredients, except the sesame seeds, stirring until smooth.

Preheat a griller (broiler) to high and place the eggplant on a tray. Cook the eggplant on each side under the grill, then spoon a scant teaspoon of the miso mixture onto each one. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and continue cooking until the surface starts to bubble and appears lightly golden. Serve with white rice.

SUNOMONO

Vinegared cucumber

SERVES: 4

1 telegraph (long) cucumber

1 tablespoon rice vinegar or mild white vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

Peel the cucumber, cut in half lengthways, remove the seeds and thinly slice crossways. Combine all of the remaining ingredients in a bowl with 1 tablespoon water. Add the cucumber and leave to marinate for at least 1 hour. Serve small helpings as a side salad or relish.

HIJIKI NITUKE

Seaweed and vegetable sauté

SERVES: 4

Before you turn away from the possibility that you may actually like eating seaweed, try this simple vegetarian dish and be prepared for some surprises, The flavour is subtle, the combination pleasing. The fried bean curd is optional.

20 g (½ cup) dried hijiki (dried seaweed), rinsed and drained

2 sheets aburage (deep-fried tofu sheets) (optional)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 carrots, cut into thin matchsticks

2 onions, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

80 ml (⅓ cup) dashi or water

1 tablespoon sugar

Soak the hijiki in cold water for 30 minutes. Drain well. Put the aburage, if using, in a colander and pour over boiling water to remove some of the oil, then cut into fine strips.

Heat the vegetable and sesame oils in a frying pan over high heat. Add the hijiki, aburage, carrot and onion and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add the shoyu, dashi and sugar, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the hijiki and vegetables are tender but not mushy. Serve with white rice.

CHILLI DIPPING SAUCE

100 ml shoyu (Japanese soy sauce)

60 ml (¼ cup) rice vinegar

½ teaspoon sugar (optional)

½ teaspoon sesame oil

a few drops of chilli oil, or to taste

Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar, if using. Serve with gyoza.

AGEDASHI TOFU

Tofu in dashi

SERVES: 3

Dusting the tofu in potato starch gives it the characteristic golden, slightly gummy coating.

300 g silken tofu

375 ml (1½ cups) dashi

80 ml (⅓ cup) light soy sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) mirin (sweet rice wine)

3 tablespoons potato starch

oil, for deep-frying

3 spring onions, very thinly sliced

2 teaspoons bonito flakes (katsuobushi)

625 ml (2½ cups) vegetable oil, for frying

1 teaspoon finely grated ginger (optional)

finely grated daikon (optional)

Drain the tofu on a few layers of paper towel. Place more layers on top, then place a flat tray on top to help soak up and press out any excess moisture.

Put the dashi into a saucepan with the soy sauce and mirin and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Cut the tofu in half lengthways, then into thirds to make six even-sized squares of tofu. Sift the potato starch onto a plate. Gently turn the tofu in the starch so that there is a light dusting of starch on all sides.

Heat the oil in a frying pan — it should be half the depth of the tofu squares. Place the tofu into the hot oil, turning gently until golden on all sides.

To serve, place 125 ml (½ cup) of the dashi broth in each bowl and then add two cubes of the tofu straight from the frying pan. Sprinkle with the spring onion and bonito flakes and serve immediately. A little grated ginger and daikon may be added to each serve if desired.

NAMASU

Daikon and cabbage salad

SERVES: 6

1 large daikon, peeled and cut into fine strips

¼ head Chinese cabbage (wong bok), finely shredded

1 carrot, peeled and cut into fine strips kimizu dressing (below)

Put the daikon, cabbage and carrot into a bowl of iced water for 1 hour, or until crisp. Drain well and serve with the dressing.

KIMIZU

Salad dressing

MAKES: ABOUT 310 ML (¼ CUPS)

3 egg yolks

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar

60 ml (¼ cup) rice vinegar or white vinegar

1 tablespoon cornflour

1 teaspoon prepared wasabi paste or dry mustard

Put all the ingredients into a food processor with 185 ml (¾ cup) water and process until smooth.

Pour the mixture into a small saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens and coats the back of the spoon — do not allow it to approach simmering point or it will curdle. Continue stirring after removing from the heat until the dressing is just warm. Refrigerate and use as a salad dressing with sliced raw or crisp-cooked vegetables.

GLOSSARY

ABURAGE

Japanese-style fried bean curd. Unlike the Chinese type (dow foo pok), which comes in cubes, aburage is prepared in thin square or rectangular sheets, which can be split to form a pocket and then stuffed with sushi rice. Sold refrigerated, it can be frozen and stored for months.

AGAR-AGAR

A setting agent obtained from seaweed, agar-agar is widely used in Asia, as it sets without refrigeration. It is sold in sachets in powder form and is available from Asian grocery stores and health food stores. It is also sold in strands, though they are less obtainable and slower to dissolve. Also known as: dai choy goh (China); kanten (Japan); kyauk kyaw (Burma); chun chow (Sri Lanka); rau cau, (Vietnam).

AJOWAN

Botanical name: Carum ajowan

Family name: Umbelliferae

Of the same family as parsley and cumin, the seeds look like parsley or celery seeds, but have the flavour of thyme. Ajowan is used in Indian cooking, particularly in lentil dishes that provide the protein in vegetarian diets, both as a flavouring and as a carminative (relieves flatulence). It is one of the ingredients used to flavour crisp-fried snacks made from lentil flour. Ajwain water is used as a remedy for stomach ailments. Also known as: ajwain (India).

AMCHUR POWDER

Dried green (unripe) mango. Available in powder form, amchur is used as an acidic flavouring ingredient in Indian cooking. Other spellings: amchoor.

ANNATTO SEEDS

Botanical name: Bixa orellana

These small red seeds are used for colouring and flavouring Filipino food. (They are also used for dying silk.) Substitute paprika and turmeric in given amounts (see The Philippines introduction). Also known as: achuete or atsuete (The Philippines).

AROMATIC GINGER

See galangal, lesser.

ASAFOETIDA

Botanical name: Ferula asafoetida

Family name: Umbelliferae

Used in minute quantities in Indian cooking. It is obtained from the resinous gum of a plant that grows in Afghanistan and Iran. The stalks are cut close to the root and the milky fluid that flows out is dried into the resin sold as asafoetida. Although it has quite an unpleasant smell by itself, traditionally a tiny piece the size of a pea is attached to the inside of the lid of a cooking pot — this adds depth of flavour and is said to prevent flatulence. If you cannot get the actual resin, use the powdered form, which has been mixed with ground rice, and add with other spices. Also known as: hing or perunkaya (India); sheingho (Burma).

ATTA FLOUR

Fine wholemeal flour used in making Indian flatbreads. Substitute fine wholemeal flour sold in health food stores or Asian grocery stores.

BAMBOO SHOOTS

Sold in tins and jars, either water-packed, pickled or braised. Unless otherwise stated, the recipes in this book use the water-packed variety. If using the tinned variety, store leftover bamboo shoots in a bowl of fresh water in the refrigerator, changing the water daily for up to 10 days. Winter bamboo shoots are much smaller and more tender, and are called for in certain recipes; however, if they are not available, use the larger variety. Also known as: suehn (China); takenoko (Japan); rebong (Malaysia); rebung (Indonesia); (Vietnam).

BARBECUE (CHAR SIU) SAUCE

A reddish sauce, char siu is very salty and at the same time heavily sweetened. Use as a dip or as an ingredient in barbecue marinades. Keeps indefinitely in an airtight jar.

BASIL (SWEET BASIL)

Botanical name: Ocimum basilicum

Family name: Labiatae (mint family)

This and other varieties of basil (Thai basil, purple basil, holy basil, lemon basil) are used predominantly in Thai, Cambodian and Vietnamese cuisine. The strongly fragrant leaves add a distinctive flavour to those dishes using it. Also known as: babuitulsi, tulsi (sabzah, gulal tulsi) (India); horapa, bai horapa (manglak, krapow) (Thailand); phak itu lao (Laos); selaseh, kemangi (Malaysia); kemangi (Indonesia); húng chó, húng ng t, húng d l; rau qu, húng qu (Vietnam); chee neang vwahng (Cambodia).

BEAN SPROUTS

Green mung beans are traditionally used for bean sprouts. They are sold fresh in most large supermarkets, Asian grocery stores and health food stores. Chinese stores sell longer shoots than those available from supermarkets, which are usually just starting to sprout. Substitute thinly sliced celery for a similar texture but different flavour. Very fresh bean sprouts can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 4 days in a plastic bag; alternatively, cover with water and change the water daily. Before using, rinse the sprouts, drain well and trim off the brown tails.

BENI SHOGA

Pickled ginger, coloured bright red, and sold in plastic packets or in bottles. Used as a garnish or for flavour.

BESAN (CHICKPEA FLOUR)

Available at most large supermarkets and Asian grocery stores. Pea flour from health food stores can be substituted, but if it is coarse, pass it through a fine sieve before using. Alternatively, roast yellow split peas in a heavybased frying pan, stirring constantly and taking care not to burn them. Cool, then process in a food processor or pound using a mortar and pestle, sift, then store the fine flour in an airtight container. Besan has a distinctive taste, and ordinary wheat flour cannot be substituted.

BITTER GOURD (BITTER MELON)

Botanical name: Momordica charantia

Known variously as bitter melon, bitter gourd, bitter cucumber and balsam pear, this vaguely reptilian-looking vegetable with warty green exterior should be purchased while young and shiny-skinned. Do not store more than a day or two and even then, in the refrigerator, or it will continue to mature. Over-ripe specimens will yellow and their seeds will become very hard. Cultures all over Asia believe this vegetable has powerful medicinal benefits. Also known as: fu gwa, foo kwa (China); karela (India); karavila (Sri Lanka); niga-uri (Japan); pare, peria (Indonesia); peria (Malaysia); kho qua (Vietnam); bai maha (Laos); mara (Thailand); ampalaya (The Philippines).

BLACK BEANS, SALTED

Made from soy beans, heavily salted and sold in tins and jars. Rinse before using to avoid over-salting recipes. Substitute extra soy sauce for flavour, though not for appearance. Store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator after opening — it will keep for 6 months or longer. Pour a little peanut oil over it if the top seems to dry out. Also known as: dow see (China).

BOMBAY DUCK

Not a bird, despite its name, this is a variety of fish that is salted and dried. It is sold in packets and should be cut into pieces no more than 2.5 cm long before using. Deep-fried or grilled, it is served as an accompaniment to a meal of rice and curry, and should be nibbled in little pieces.

BONITO

A fish, often called Pacific bonito, whose dried flesh is used as a base for many Japanese broths and stocks. It is sold in blocks or as very thin shavings. It is also sold as granules for making dashi.

CANDLENUTS

Botanical name: Aleurites moluccana

Family name: Euphorbiaceae

A hard oily nut used to flavour and thicken Indonesian and Malaysian curries. The name arises because the nuts, when threaded on the mid-rib of a palm leaf, are used as a primitive candle. Because of the high oil content, store in the freezer to prevent rancidity. Use Brazil nuts or macadamia nuts as a substitute, though their flavour is sweeter than that of the candlenut. Also known as: kyainthee (Burma); kekuna, tel kekuna (Sri Lanka); buah keras (Malaysia); kemiri (Indonesia); lumbang bato (The Philippines).

CARDAMOM

Botanical name: Elettaria cardamomum

Family name: Zingiberaceae

Next to saffron, cardamom is the world’s most expensive spice. Cardamoms grow mainly in India and Sri Lanka, and are the seed pods of a member of the ginger family. The dried seed pods are either pale green or brown, according to variety; sometimes they are bleached white. They are added, either whole or bruised, to pilaus and other rice dishes, spiced curries and other preparations or sweets. When ground cardamom is called for, the seed pods are opened and discarded and only the small black or brown seeds are ground. For full flavour, it is best to grind them just before using. If you cannot buy a high-quality ground cardamom, crush the seeds using a mortar and pestle or spice mill, as required. Also known as: illaichi (India); enasal (Sri Lanka); phalazee (Burma); kravan (Thailand); buah pelaga (Malaysia); kapulaga (Indonesia).

CASHEWS

Botanical name: Anacardium occidentale

A sweet, kidney-shaped nut. In countries where the cashew tree is not grown, it is not possible to get the milky sweet fresh cashews. However, it is possible to buy raw cashews (as distinct from the roasted and salted cashews sold as snacks); they are generally available in supermarkets, nut shops and health food stores. Also known as: kaju (India); gaju (Malaysia); cadju (Sri Lanka).

CELLOPHANE (BEAN STARCH) NOODLES

Fine, translucent noodles made from the starch of green mung beans. Noodles may be soaked in hot water before use, or may require boiling according to the texture required. They can also be deep-fried straight from the packet, generally when used as a garnish or to provide a background for other foods. Also known as: kyazan (Burma); woon sen (Thailand); sohoon, tunghoon (Malaysia); bi fun, ning fun, sai fun, fun see (China); harusame (Japan); sotanghoon (Indonesia); sotanghon (The Philippines); búng u (Vietnam); mee sooer (Cambodia).

CHILLI POWDER

Asian chilli powder is made from ground chillies. It is much hotter than the Mexican-style chilli powder, which is mostly ground cumin. You may be able to find ground Kashmiri chillies, which are a brighter red colour and not as hot as other ground chillies.

CHILLIES, BIRDSEYE

Very small, very hot chillies. Used mainly in pickles, though in some cases added to food when a very hot flavour is required (as in Thai food). Treat with caution and wear disposable gloves when handling seeds. As with all chillies, the seeds and membrane contain the highest concentration of volatile oil.

CHILLIES, GREEN AND RED

Botanical name: Capsicum spp.

Chillies mature from green to red, becoming hotter as they mature. Both varieties are used fresh for flavouring, either whole or finely chopped, sliced as a garnish or ground into sambals. The seeds, which are the hottest parts, are usually (though not always) removed. Larger varieties tend to be milder than the small varieties. See chillies for handling. Dried red chillies are found in packets in Asian grocery stores — the medium- to large-sized chillies are best for most recipes in this book.

CHINESE BEAN SAUCE

Most bean sauces are too thick to pour, they are a paste consistency. There are many types of bean sauce — each country has at least one used in its cuisine. In Chinese cooking, ground bean sauce (mor sze jeung) has a smooth texture and can be used as a substitute for Korean bean sauce in cooking. Another type, min sze jeung, is a thick paste of mashed fermented soy beans and is similar to Malaysian taucheo. Whenever bean sauce is an ingredient in recipes from Malaysia, Singapore and China, use min sze jeung if possible. Substitute mashed salted black beans, sold in tins. Other variations include Chinese chilli bean sauce, sweet bean sauce and hot bean sauce.

CHINESE SAUSAGES

Known as lap cheong, these dried sausages are filled only with spiced lean and fat pork. Steam for 10–15 minutes until soft and plump and the fat is translucent. Cut into thin slices to serve, or include in other dishes. They have a sweet, lightly scented flavour that can be an acquired taste.

CHOW CHOW PRESERVES

A mixture of fruits and vegetables in a heavy syrup, flavoured with ginger, which is also one of the ingredients. Sold in tins or jars, it keeps indefinitely in the refrigerator after opening.

CINNAMON

Botanical name: Cinnamomum zeylanicum and verum

Family name: Lauraceae True cinnamon is native to Sri Lanka. Buy cinnamon sticks or quills rather than the ground spice, which loses its flavour when stored too long. It is used in both sweet and savoury dishes. Cassia, which is grown in India, Indonesia and Burma, is similar. It is much stronger in flavour, and is cheaper, but it lacks the delicacy of cinnamon. The leaves and buds of the cassia tree have a flavour similar to the bark and are also used for flavouring food. For sweet dishes, use true cinnamon. Cassia bark is much thicker because the corky layer is left on. Also known as: darchini (India); kurundu (Sri Lanka); op chery (Thailand); thit-ja-boh-guak (Burma); kayu manis (Malaysia and Indonesia).

CLOVES

Botanical name: Syzygium aromaticum, Eugenia aromatica and E. caryophyllus

Family name: Myrtaceae

Cloves are the dried flower buds of an evergreen tropical tree native to Southeast Asia. They were used in China more than 2,000 years ago, and were also used by the Romans. Oil of cloves contains phenol, a powerful antiseptic that discourages putrefaction, and the clove is hence one of the spices that helps preserve food. Also known as: laung (India); karabu (Sri Lanka); ley-nyin-bwint (Burma); bunga cingkeh (Malaysia); cengkeh (Indonesia).

COCONUT MILK

This is not the water inside the nut, as is commonly believed, but the creamy liquid extracted from the grated flesh of fresh coconuts or from desiccated or shredded coconut. When coconut milk is called for, especially in sweet dishes, do make an effort to use it, for its flavour cannot be duplicated by using any other kind of milk. Tinned and Tetra Pak coconut milk saves time and effort, although be warned that some brands are far better than others so try a few until you find one that appeals. Low-fat coconut milk is an unappealing substitute.

CORIANDER

Botanical name: Coriandrum sativum

Family name: Umbelliferae All parts of the coriander plant are used in Asian cooking. The dried seed is the main ingredient in curry powder, and although not hot it has a fragrance that makes it an essential part of a curry blend. The fresh coriander herb is also known as cilantro or Chinese parsley in other parts of the world. It is indispensable in Burma, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, India and China where it is also called ‘fragrant green’. Also known as: dhania (seed), dhania pattar, dhania sabz (leaves) (India); kottamalli (seed), kottamalli kolle (leaves) (Sri Lanka); nannamzee (seed), nannambin (leaves) (Burma); pak chee (Thailand); phak hom pom (Laos); ketumbar (seeds), daun ketumbar (leaves) (Malaysia); yuen sai (China); kinchay (The Philippines); ngò, rau mùi (Vietnam); chee van soy (Cambodia).

CUMIN

Botanical name: Cuminum cyminum

Family name: Umbelliferae Cumin is, with coriander, the most essential ingredient in prepared curry powders. It is available as seed, or ground. There may be some confusion between cumin and caraway seeds because they are similar in appearance, but the flavours are completely different and one cannot replace the other in recipes. Also known as: sufaid zeera (white cumin), zeera, jeera (India); sududuru (Sri Lanka); yira (Thailand); jintan puteh (Malaysia); jinten (Indonesia).

CUMIN, BLACK

See nigella.

CURRY LEAVES

Botanical name: Murraya koenigii

Family name: Rutaceae Sold fresh or dried, they are as important to curries as bay leaves are to stews, but never try to substitute one for the other. The tree is native to Asia, the leaves are small, pointed and shiny, growing in opposing pairs along a central stalk. Although they keep their flavour well when dried or frozen, they are found in such abundance in Asia that they are generally used fresh. The tree is easy to grow from seed even in a temperate climate. The leaves are fried in oil, until crisp, at the start of preparing a curry. Dried curry leaves can be pulverised using a mortar and pestle; and the powdered leaves can be used in marinades and omelettes. Also known as: kitha neem, katnim, karipattar, karuvepila (India); karapincha (Sri Lanka); pyi-naw-thein (Burma); daun kari, karupillay (Malaysia).

CURRY POWDER

Rarely used in countries where curry is eaten daily (the word comes from the Tamil kari, meaning ‘sauce’). It is preferable to roast and grind the spices separately. (See notes on Indian curry powders and pastes, and Ceylon curry powder.

DAIKON

Botanical name: Raphanus sativus This is a very large white radish most popularly known by its Japanese name and it is about 30–38 cm long with a mild flavour. It is sold in Asian grocery stores and some large greengrocers and supermarkets. Substitute white turnip if not available. Also known as: muuli (India); loh hahk (China); cù cùi tr ng (Vietnam); mu (moo) (Korea).

DASHI

A clear soup made from dried bonito flakes and seaweed. Instant dashi, sold in Japanese grocery stores, is made from katsuobushi (powdered dried bonito) and kombu (dried kelp). It is essential for Japanese cooking — in addition to being served as a soup it is used as a cooking stock or as part of a dipping sauce.

DAUN PANDAN

See pandanus or screwpine.

DAUN SALAM

An aromatic leaf used in Indonesian cooking, it is larger than the curry leaf used in India and Sri Lanka, but has a slightly cinnamon flavour. There is no substitute.

DILL

Botanical name: Anethum graveolens

Family name: Umbelliferae Much used in Russian and European cooking, this herb is also very popular in Sri Lanka where it gives a distinctive flavour to minced meat mixtures, frikkadels, fish cutlets, ogu ruloung (herbed scrambled egg) and so on. It is also popular for flavouring fish soups in the north of Vietnam. Similar in appearance to fennel, it is much smaller and grows only to 45–90 cm high; the leaf is feathery and thread-like and the stems are slender, not bulbous like its cousin. Also known as: enduru (Sri Lanka); phak si (Laos); thi la (Vietnam).

DOW FOO POK

Chinese-style fried bean curd, sold in Asian grocery stores. It comes in small or large cubes and is sold fresh, not frozen, but can be kept in the refrigerator for about a week.

DRIED FISH (SPRATS)

Salting and drying fish is a common way of preserving fish throughout Asia. Some are small, such as tiny sprats or anchovies. These tiny sprats or anchovies should be rinsed before use. Avoid soaking them, or they will not retain their crispness when fried. Dry on paper towel before frying. Larger salted and dried fish, such as karavadu, are used in main dishes. Also known as: nethali (India); haal masso (Sri Lanka); plasroi (Thailand); ikan bilis (Indonesia and Malaysia).

DRIED SHRIMP PASTE

Commercially sold as blacan, blachan or belacan, this is a pungent paste made from prawns, and used in many Southeast Asian recipes. It is sold in tins, flat slabs or blocks and will keep indefinitely. If stored in an airtight jar it will, like a genie in a bottle, perform its magic when required without obtruding on the kitchen at other times! It does not need refrigeration. Also known as: ngapi (Burma); kapi (Thailand); blacan (Malaysia); trasi (Indonesia); mam tom (Vietnam).

FENNEL

Botanical name: Foeniculum vulgare

Family name: Rutaceae Sometimes known as ‘sweet cumin’ or ‘large cumin’, for its similar-shaped seeds, it is a member of the same botanical family and is used in Sri Lankan curries (but in much smaller quantities than true cumin). It is available in ground or seed form. Substitute an equal amount of aniseed. Also known as: sonf (India); maduru (Sri Lanka); samouk-saba (Burma); jintan manis (Malaysia); adas (Indonesia).

FENUGREEK

Botanical name: Trigonella foenum-graecum

Family name: Leguminosae (papilionaceae) These small, flat, squarish, brownish-beige seeds are essential in curries, but because they have a slightly bitter flavour they must be used in the stated quantities. They are especially good in fish and seafood curries, where the whole seeds are gently fried at the start of cooking; they are also ground and added to curry powders. The green leaves are used in Indian cooking and, when spiced, the bitter taste is quite piquant and acceptable. The plant is easy to grow, and when at the two-leaf stage, the sprouts make a tangy addition to salads. Also known as: methi (India); uluhaal (Sri Lanka); alba (Malaysia).

FISH CAKES

Both Chinese-style fish cakes and Japanese-style fish cakes are sold ready to use in most Asian grocery stores. They can be kept for a few days if refrigerated, and need no further cooking apart from heating through.

FISH SAUCE

A thin, salty, brown sauce used in Southeast Asian cooking to bring out the flavour in other foods. A small variety of fish is packed in wooden barrels with salt, and the liquid that runs off is the ‘fish sauce’. There are different grades of fish sauce, the Vietnamese version being darker and having a more pronounced fish flavour than the others. Also known as: (Vietnam); ngan-pya-ye (Burma); nam pla (Thailand); tuck trey (Cambodia); nam pa (Laos); patis (The Philippines).

FIVE-SPICE POWDER

Essential in Chinese cooking, this reddish-brown powder is a combination of ground star anise, fennel, cinnamon, cloves and sichuan pepper. Also known as: heung new fun, hung liu, ngung heung fun (China).

GALANGAL, GREATER

Botanical name: Alpinia galanga

Family name: Zingiberaceae

A rhizome, like ginger, galangal has thin brown skin and the flesh is creamy white; the flesh of lesser galangal has an orange-red hue. As it ages, galangal becomes woody and can be very tough to cut and difficult to grind. Scrape off skin and chop the root finely before pounding or grinding in spice pastes. Slices may be simmered in soups and curries for extra flavour. The young rhizome is most attractive with smooth skin blushing pink. The greater galangal is more extensively used in Southeast Asian cooking than lesser galangal, and is more delicate in flavour, although if absent from a dish, it will be missed. Also known as: kha (Thailand and Laos); lengkuas (Malaysia); laos (Indonesia); riêng (Vietnam); romdaeng (Cambodia).

GALANGAL, LESSER

Botanical name: Kaempferia pandurata, Alpinia officinarum

Family name: Zingiberaceae

Also known as ‘aromatic ginger’, this member of the ginger family cannot be used as a substitute for ginger or vice versa. It is used only in certain dishes and gives a pronounced aromatic flavour. When available fresh, it is sliced or pounded to a pulp; but outside of Asia it is usually sold dried, and the hard round slices must be pounded using a mortar and pestle or pulverised in a food processor before use. In some spice ranges it is sold in powdered form as kencur powder. The plant is native to southern China and has been used for centuries in medicinal herbal mixtures, but it is not used in Chinese cooking. Also known as: ingurupiyali (Sri Lanka); krachai (Thailand); zeodary or kencur (Malaysia); kencur (Indonesia); sa leung geung, sha geung fun (China).

GARLIC

Botanical name: Allium sativum

Family name: Liliaceae

Almost universal in application, and vital in Asian cooking (although Kashmiri Brahmins eschew it, believing it inflames baser passions), garlic is not only a flavouring but is also prized for its health-giving properties. There are many varieties — some with large cloves, some very small; some white in colour, some purplish; some easily peeled, and some with a skin that sticks so doggedly that it has to be picked off. Some garlic varieties are very strong in flavour, while other types can be quite mild. Often the larger the garlic, the milder the taste. Also known as: lasan (India); sudulunu (Sri Lanka); chyet-thon-phew (Burma); kthem sau (Cambodia); bawang puteh (Malaysia); bawang putih (Indonesia); tòi (Vietnam); bawang (The Philippines).

GHEE (CLARIFIED BUTTER)

Sold in tins, ghee is pure butterfat without any of the milk solids. It can be heated to much higher temperatures than butter without burning, and imparts a distinctive flavour when used as a cooking medium. for details on making ghee.

GINGER

Botanical name: Zingiber officinale

A rhizome with a robust flavour and a warming quality, it is essential in most Asian dishes. Fresh ginger root should be used; powdered ginger cannot be substituted for fresh ginger, for the flavour is quite different. To prepare for use, scrape off the skin with a sharp knife and either grate or chop finely (according to recipe requirements) before measuring. To preserve fresh ginger for long periods of time, place in a freezer bag and store in the freezer — it is a simple matter to peel and grate in the frozen state. Also known as: adrak (India); inguru (Sri Lanka); gin (Burma); khing (Thailand); khnyahee (Cambodia); halia (Malaysia); jahe (Indonesia); jeung (China); shoga (Japan); (Vietnam); luya (The Philippines).

GINKGO NUTS

Botanical name: Ginkgo biloba

Family name: Ginkgoacea

The kernel of the fruit of the maidenhair tree, which grows in China and Japan. It has an individual and slightly bitter flavour, and is eaten roasted as a nut or used to give its flavour to foods. Usually sold tinned or shrink-sealed, it may also be labelled ‘white nut’. Before eating, fresh nuts need to have their outer layer removed and then should be boiled for about 30 minutes or they can be toxic. The nut, or seed of the fruit in its shell, looks a little like a large, closed pistachio nut. Also known as: bahk gwoah (China); ginnan (Japan).

GLUTINOUS RICE

Botanical name: Oryza sativa var. glutinosa and glutinosa

Although also known as sticky rice, because of its sticky consistency, it actually contains no gluten. Cooked both as whole grains, milled and unmilled (with bran removed or intact), as well as ground into flour. The purple and black varieties are different strains. Mostly used to make sweets except in Laos, where it is eaten in place of ordinary rice. Also known as: kao hnyin (Burma); nuomi (China); mochigome (Japan); pulut (Malaysia); khao niao (Laos and Thailand); chapssal (Korea); bai dow map (Cambodia); malagkit (The Philippines); g o n p (Vietnam).

GOMASIO

A seasoning of black sesame seeds, coarse salt and Monosodium Glutamate (MSG) used in Japanese cooking.

GRASS JELLY

Sold in tins in Asian grocery stores, this black jelly made with seaweed is used exclusively in sweet drinks throughout Burma, Malaysia, Singapore and China. It tastes and smells faintly of iodine, reassuring proof of how good it is to eat, as those who use it believe. Also known as: leung fun (China).

GROUND RICE

See rice, ground

HARUSAME NOODLES

Fine Japanese noodles, made from bean starch, that are translucent when soaked and boiled. When deep-fried from the dried state they become crisp, white and opaque, and puff up. They are the equivalent of China’s fen szu or ‘cellophane noodles’. See notes on noodles.

HIJIKI

A type of seaweed used as a vegetable by the Japanese. In its dried state it looks like coarse black wire. It must be soaked before cooking.

HOISIN SAUCE

A sweet, spicy, reddish-brown sauce of thick pouring consistency made from soy beans, garlic and spices. Used in barbecued pork dishes and as a dip. Keeps indefinitely in an airtight jar.

JICAMA

See yam bean.

KAFFIR LIME

See makrut.

KAMABOKO

Japanese fish cake, sold frozen. It is avaialable from Asian grocery stores.

KATSUOBUSHI (DRIED BONITO)

Dried bonito is the favourite flavouring ingredient in Japanese cooking. It can be bought already flaked; this is by far the most convenient, for dried bonito is extremely hard and needs a special tool for shaving it.

KECAP MANIS (SWEET DARK SOY SAUCE)

See soy sauce.

KENCUR (AROMATIC GINGER) POWDER

See galangal, lesser.

KEWRA ESSENCE

Used mostly in Indian sweets, it comes from a variety of pandanus (Pandanus odoratissimus). The male inflorescence has a stronger perfume than roses or jasmine. Kewra essence is so strong that only a drop is needed (or, more discreetly, a small skewer dipped in the essence is swished in the liquid to be flavoured). On special festive occasions, rose essence and kewra essence are used to flavour the rich rice dish, biriani.

KOMBU (DRIED KELP)

Japanese kelp seaweed, available dried in broad, greyish black ribbons. It is used to flavour dashi and rice used for sushi. It will keep indefinitely, and is also pickled to be used as a relish.

LAOS (DRIED GALANGAL) POWDER

Botanical name: Alpinia galanga

A very delicate spice, sold in powder form, laos is the ground, dried root of the ‘greater galangal’. The fresh or bottled rhizome will have more impact, but the ground spice can add an intriguing note to curries and dishes requiring longer cooking. See galangal, greater.

LEMONGRASS

Botanical name: Cymbopogon citratus

Family name: Gramineae This aromatic Asian plant is a tall grass with sharp-edged leaves that multiply into clumps. The whitish, slightly bulbous base is used to impart a lemony flavour to curries, salads and soups. Cut just one stem with a sharp knife, close to the root, and use about 10–12 cm of the stalk from the base, discarding the leaves. If you have to use dried lemongrass, about 12 strips dried are equal to 1 fresh stem; although 2–3 strips of very thinly peeled lemon zest will do just as well. Also known as: sera (India and Sri Lanka); zabalin (Burma); takrai (Thailand); kreung, bai mak nao (Cambodia); serai (Malaysia); sereh (Indonesia).

LILY BUDS

Botanical name: Hemerocallis

Also known as ‘golden needles’ or ‘lotus buds’, these long, narrow, dried golden buds have a very delicate flavour and are said to be nutritious. Before using, soak for 30 minutes or longer in hot water, then cut in half widthways or tie in a knot for more elegant eating. Also known as: khim chiam (China); kanzou (Japan); pet kup julgi (Korea); dole mai chin (Thailand); kim cham (Vietnam).

LIME

Botanical name: Citrus microcapa

The juice of this fruit is used in Asian countries for adding a sour flavour to curries and other dishes. Lemon or Tahitian limes may be used as a substitute, though each has a distinctive and slightly different quality. Also known as: nimboo (India); dehi (Sri Lanka); ma now (Thailand); kroach mair (Cambodia); limau nipis, liamu kesturi (Malaysia); calamansi (The Philippines); chanh màu xanh (Vietnam).

LOTUS ROOT

Botanical name: Nelumbo nucifera

The edible rhizome of the graceful, ancient flowering water plant. Sometimes available fresh; peel, cut into slices and use as directed. Dried lotus root must be soaked for at least 20 minutes in hot water with a little lemon juice added to preserve whiteness. Peeled and sliced frozen lotus root is widely available. Tinned lotus root can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days after being opened. The seeds of the spent flower, peeled and eaten raw as a snack in Asia, are mild-tasting with a subtle crunch. Also known as: kamal-kakri (India); nelun-ala (Sri Lanka); seroja (Malaysia); teratai (Indonesia); baino (The Philippines); bua-luang (Thailand); lien ngow, ngau (China); renkon (Japan).

MACE

Botanical name: Myristica fragrans

Family name: Myristicaceae

Mace is part of the nutmeg, a fruit that looks like an apricot and grows on tall tropical trees. When ripe, the fruit splits to reveal the aril, lacy and bright scarlet, surrounding the shell of the seed; the dried aril is mace and the kernel is nutmeg. Mace has a flavour similar to nutmeg but more delicate, and it is sometimes used in meat or fish curries, especially in Sri Lanka, although its main use in Asia is medicinal (a few blades of mace steeped in hot water, the water then being taken to combat nausea and diarrhoea). Also known as: javatri (India); wasa-vasi (Sri Lanka).

MAKRUT (KAFFIR LIME)

Botanical name: Citrus hystrix, C. papedia, C. amblycarpa

The leaves of this citrus are prized for their flavour and are encountered in the cuisines of Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. The double-lobed leaf, when young and shredded into hair-fine strands, adds a vibrant quality to salads or sprinkled over a cooked dish just before eating. The older, tougher leaves are simmered in curries and soups for their lively citrus flavour. The bumpy, green-skinned fruit may also be an ingredient in curry pastes and the juice used in dressings. Also known as: makrut (Thailand); jeruk purut, jeruk sambal (Indonesia): limau purut (Malaysia); swangi (The Philippines); shauk-mu, shauk-waing (Burma); fatt-fung-kam (China); kaffir vôi (Vietnam); slok krauch (Cambodia).

MALDIVE FISH (DRIED SMOKED TUNA)

Dried tuna from the Maldive Islands, used extensively in Sri Lankan cooking. It is sold in packets, broken into small chips, but needs to be pulverised further using a mortar and pestle to make a powder before use. Substitute dried prawn powder or Japanese katsuobushi. Also known as: umbalakada (Sri Lanka).

MELINJO NUT

Botanical name: Gnetum gnemon

The kernel of the small oval fruits of the gnemon tree, the boiled and dried seeds are then flattened and deep-fried in hot oil to make delicious wafers. Sometimes labelled ‘bitter nut crackers’, they make a great snack or appetiser and are sometimes used to garnish Indonesian dishes. Also known as: belinjo (Indonesia).

MELON, BITTER

See bitter gourd.

MINT

Botanical name: Mentha piperita

Family name: Labiatae

Although there are many varieties, the common, round-leafed mint is the one most often used in cooking. It adds flavour to many dishes, and fresh mint chutney is an essential accompaniment to an Indian biriani meal or as a dipping sauce for samoosa. Mint is also used in Laotian fish dishes as well as Thai, Cambodian and Vietnamese salads. See Vietnamese mint. Also known as: podina (India); meenchi (Sri Lanka); pak hom ho (Laos); daun pudina (Malaysia); hung cay (Vietnam); chee ongkaam (Cambodia).

MIRIN

Japanese rice wine that is sweeter than sake and used only for cooking. Dry sherry can be used as a substitute.

MISO

A paste made from cooked, fermented soy beans. There are various types: white, red, brownish and beige — with white and red being the main ones. There are also varying degrees of saltiness, so make sure you allow for it. Japanese thick soups are mostly based on miso stirred into dashi, the usual proportion being 1 tablespoon to 1 cup of stock. There is also a yellow bean paste used in Singapore and Indonesia called taucheo.

MUNG BEAN FLOUR

Extremely fine, smooth flour made from mung beans, it is available either white or coloured a delicate pink or green, and is used in the making of sweets. When mixed with water and brought to the boil it becomes clear and thick like arrowroot or cornflour (both of which are suitable substitutes).

MUSHROOMS, DRIED

See shiitake mushrooms, dried.

MUSHROOMS, STRAW

Also known as ‘paddy straw mushrooms’. Especially popular in Japan, this tiny, cultivated mushroom consists of a sheath within which is the mushroom. Available tinned, bottled or dried. Very delicate flavour. Substitute champignons. Also known as: chao gwoo (China), nameko (Japan).

MUSTARD SEEDS, BLACK

Botanical name: Brassica nigra

Family name: Cruciferae

This variety of mustard seed is smaller and more pungent than the yellow variety. Substitute brown mustard seeds (juncia). Alba or white mustard seeds are not used in Asian cooking. Also known as: rai, kimcea (brown mustard) (India); abba (Sri Lanka); biji sawi (Malaysia).

NIGELLA

Botanical name: Nigella sativa

Family name: Ranunculaceae

Although the Indian name kala zeera translates as ‘black cumin’, this is not true cumin and the flavour is different. The small, matt black seeds are similar in size and shape to sesame seeds, only slightly more angular. Aromatic and peppery, nigella is often used as a garnish on Indian breads and is an essential ingredient in panch phora. Also known as: kala zeera, kalonji (India).

NORI

Dried laver, a type of edible seaweed that is one of the most popular flavourings, garnishes and decorations in Japanese cooking. It is sold in paper-thin sheets, is shiny purple-black in colour, and must be warmed and crisped before use.

NUTMEG

Botanical name: Myristica fragrans

Family name: Myristicaceae

Not widely used as a curry spice, but used to flavour some sweets and cakes, and sometimes used in garam masala. For maximum flavour, always grate finely just before using. Use sparingly, as large quantities (more than one whole nut) can be poisonous.

OYSTER SAUCE

Adds delicate flavour to all kinds of dishes. Made from oysters cooked in soy sauce and brine, this thick brown sauce can be kept indefinitely in the refrigerator. Also known as: ho yu (China).

PALM SUGAR

This strong-flavoured dark sugar is obtained from the sap of coconut palms and Palmyrah palms. The sap is boiled down until it crystallizes, and the sugar is usually sold in round, flat cakes or two hemispheres put together to form a ball and wrapped in dried leaves. Substitute black sugar, an unrefined, sticky sugar sold in health food stores, or use refined dark brown sugar sold at supermarkets. Thai recipes generally call for pale palm sugar, while Malaysian, Indonesian and Sri Lankan recipes favour dark palm sugar. Also known as: hakuru (Sri Lanka); tanyet (Palmyrah), chandagar (cane) (Burma); gula Melaka (Malacca) (Malaysia); gula jawa (Indonesia); skor tnowth (Cambodia).

PANCH PHORA

Panch means ‘five’ in Hindi. Panch phora is a combination of five different aromatic seeds. These are used whole, and when added to the cooking oil impart a flavour typical of Indian food. Ingredients are described in the introduction to the Indian chapter.

PANDANUS OR SCREWPINE

Botanical name: Pandanus latifolia

Family name: Pandanaceae Used as a flavouring in rice and curries in Sri Lanka, to wrap chicken for grilling or deep-frying in Thailand and Cambodia and as a flavouring and colouring agent in Malay and Indonesian sweets. The long, flat, green leaves are either crushed or boiled to yield up their flavour and colour. In Malaysia and Indonesia especially, the flavour is as popular as vanilla is in the West. It is available fresh and frozen in Asian grocery stores and increasingly common in good greengrocers. Also known as: rampe (Sri Lanka); bai toey (Thailand); daun pandan (Malaysia); daun pandan (Indonesia); slok toey (Cambodia).

PAPRIKA

Botanical name: Capsicum tetragonum

Paprika peppers can be tinned or bottled as pimiento, but are more often used dried and powdered and known simply as the spice, paprika. Good paprika should have a mild, sweet flavour and brilliant red colour. Although it is essentially a European flavouring, particularly used in Hungary and Poland, it is useful in Asian cooking for imparting the necessary red colour to a curry when the chilli tolerance of the diners is not very high. In Asia, the colour would come from 20 to 30 chillies!

PEANUT OIL

A traditional cooking medium in Chinese and Southeast Asian countries. Asian unrefined peanut oil is highly flavoured and more expensive than the refined peanut oil found in Western supermarkets. It has a high smoking point and adds a distinctive flavour to stir-fries. Refined peanut oil is ideal for deep-frying. Take all the usual precautions where peanuts are concerned and avoid it if cooking for anyone with nut sensitivities. Use olive oil flavoured with a little sesame oil as an alternative.

PEPPER, BLACK

Botanical name: Piper nigrum

Family name: Piperaceae

Pepper, the berry of a tropical vine native to India, is green when immature, and red or yellow when ripe. Black pepper is obtained by boiling and then sun-drying the green, unripe drupes. It is only used in some curries, but is an important ingredient in garam masala. Vietnam is the main producer of pepper.

PEPPER, GREEN

The unripe drupes which are used fresh in some Asian cuisines, such as Thai and Cambodian. Green peppercorns are mostly available tinned, bottled in brine or preserved in vinegar. Dried green peppercorns are sometimes available also. The fresh green pepper berries (drupes) are quite hot with heady, almost medicinal overtones.

PEPPER, WHITE

This comes from the same plant as black pepper, but the ripened berries are soaked in stagnant water for some days until the outer covering or pericarp rots, at which time the berries are washed to remove the pericarp and make them white. They are then dried. Rarely used in curries, its main use is in white sauces in Western cuisine, in which it looks better than black pepper.

PERILLA

Botanical name: Lamiaceae, Perilla frustescens and crispa

A herb relative of mint and basil with a stronger, spicier flavour. There are green and red varieties. Often served with raw fish as it is believed to counteract food poisoning. Also known as: la tiá tô (Vietnam); shiso (Japan).

PLUM SAUCE

A spicy, sweet Chinese sauce made from plums, chillies, vinegar, spices and sugar. Use as a dip. It keeps indefinitely in an airtight jar.

POPPY SEEDS

Used in Indian curries mainly for thickening sauces since flour, cornflour or other starches are never used for thickening, the seeds are ground to a powder for this use. Also known as: khas-khas (India).

PRAWN POWDER, DRIED

Finely shredded dried prawns or shrimps, sold in packets at speciality food stores and Asian grocery stores.

PRESERVED MELON SHREDS

Also known as ‘sweet pickled cucumber’, these are thin shreds of melon preserved in a ginger flavoured syrup. They keep indefinitely in an airtight jar.

RED ASIAN SHALLOTS

Botanical name: Allium ascalonicum

Shallots are small, purplish onions with red-brown skin. Like garlic, they grow in a cluster and resemble garlic cloves in shape. The name ‘shallots’ in Australia is generally (and incorrectly) given to spring onions.

RED COLOURING POWDER

A brilliant red powder sold in Chinese grocery stores and used very sparingly to give the distinctive colour seen in barbecued pork. Substitute a bright red liquid food colouring if unavailable. Powdered annatto seeds or paprika may be substituted, although the red they produce is not nearly as vivid.

RICE, GROUND

This can be bought at supermarkets and health food stores. It is slightly more granular than rice flour. It gives a crisper texture when used in batters.

RICE PAPER

Thin circular or square sheets of rice paste imprinted with a basket weave from the bamboo mats they are dried on. In their dry state they are very brittle and may shatter when dropped. After dipping in water they become pliable and may be used to wrap a variety of fillings then eaten as is or deep-fried. In Vietnam, these translucent wrappers are known as bahn tran. Unrelated to the fine, wafer-like ‘rice paper’ used in confectionery, which is actually not made from rice at all.

RICE, TOASTED AND GROUND

This can be bought in Asian grocery stores, but is also easy to prepare. Lightly brown raw jasmine rice in a dry frying pan over low heat for about 15 minutes, stirring constantly so that it does not brown unevenly or burn. It should be golden brown all over. Grind to a powder in a food processor or electric spice grinder. It adds texture and a distinctive flavour to Thai salads.

RICE VERMICELLI

Sometimes labelled ‘rice sticks’, these are very fine rice flour noodles sold in Chinese grocery stores. Soaking in hot water for 10 minutes prepares them sufficiently for most recipes, but in some cases they may need boiling for 1–2 minutes. When deep-fried they swell up and turn white. For a crisp result, fry them straight from the packet without soaking. Also known as: mei fun (China); beehoon, meehoon (Malaysia); mee sooer (Cambodia); sen mee (Thailand); bún, lúa mi n (Vietnam).

ROSEWATER

A favourite flavouring in Indian and Persian sweets, rosewater is the diluted essence extracted from rose petals by steam distillation. It is essential in gulab jamun and ras gula, and is also used in biriani. If you use rose essence or concentrate, be careful not to over-flavour and be sure to count the drops. However, with rosewater a 1 tablespoon-measure can safely be used. Buy rosewater from chemists or from shops specialising in Asian or Middle Eastern ingredients.

ROTI FLOUR

Creamy in colour and slightly granular in texture, this is ideal flour for all unleavened breads; unlike atta flour, it is not made from the whole grain but instead the polished or milled grain. Sold at some health food stores and Chinese grocery stores as well as Indian grocery stores.

SAFFRON

Botanical name: Crocus sativus

Family name: Iridaceae

The world’s most expensive spice, saffron is obtained by drying the stamens of the saffron or autumn crocus. The thread-like strands are dark orange in colour and have a strong perfume; it is also available in powder form. Do not confuse it with turmeric, which is sometimes sold as ‘Indian saffron’. Beware also of cheap saffron, which in all probability will be safflower or ‘bastard saffron’ — it looks similar, and imparts colour, but has none of the saffron fragrance. Saffron is used more extensively in northern India than anywhere else in Asia. Also known as: kesar (China); kasubha (The Philippines).

SAKE

Pronounced ‘sahk-ay’, Japan’s famous rice wine is usually served warm — about 44°C — easily achieved by immersing the wine’s container in very hot water for a short time. It is also used as an ingredient in sauces and marinades, when brandy or dry sherry can be substituted.

SAMBAL BAJAK

A combination of chillies and spices used as an accompaniment to rice and curry meals. Sold in Asian grocery stores. Some Dutch-manufactured brands still use the old Dutch-Indonesian spelling, sambal badjak.

SAMBAL ULEK

A combination of chillies and salt, used in cooking or as an accompaniment. The old Dutch-Indonesian spelling, still seen on some labels, is sambal oelek.

SALTED SOY BEANS (TAUCHEO)

An Indonesian or Malaysian fermented soy bean sauce. The beans may be whole, but are very soft and easy to mash. Yellow bean sauce is a smooth version. Thai soy bean paste is a suitable substitute. Also sold as tauco and tauceo.

SEMOLINA

A wheat product sometimes known as ‘farina’, it comes in coarse, medium and fine grades. Recipes stipulate the correct grade to use, but a different grade can be substituted although there will be some change in texture. The bulk semolina sold in health food stores is medium grade; and the packaged semolina sold in Italian grocery stores and delicatessens is either medium or very fine. A little experimental shopping is recommended, for the grade of semolina is seldom labelled.

SESAME OIL

The sesame oil used in Chinese cooking is extracted from toasted sesame seeds and gives a totally different flavour from the lighter-coloured sesame oil sold in health food stores. For the recipes in this book, buy sesame oil from Asian grocery stores. Use the oil in small quantities for flavouring, not as a cooking medium.

SESAME PASTE

Sesame seeds, when ground, yield a thick paste similar to peanut butter. Stores specialising in Middle Eastern foods sell a sesame paste known as tahini, but this is made from raw sesame seeds, is white and slightly bitter, and cannot be substituted for the Chinese version, which is made from toasted sesame seeds, and is brown and nutty. A suitable substitute is peanut butter with sesame oil added for flavour. Sesame paste is sold in tins or jars; it keeps indefinitely after opening.

SESAME SEEDS

Used mostly in Korean, Chinese and Japanese food, and in sweets in other Southeast Asian countries. Black sesame, another variety known as hak chih mah (China) or kuro goma (Japan), is mainly used in the Chinese dessert, toffee apples, and as a flavouring (gomasio) mixed with salt in Japanese food.

SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS, DRIED

Botanical name: Lentinus edodes

Also known as ‘fragrant mushrooms’, the flavour of these mushrooms is quite individual. They are expensive but give an incomparable flavour. Soak for 20–30 minutes before using. The stems are usually discarded and only the caps used. There is no substitute. Also known as: hed hom (Thailand); cindauwan (Malaysia); doong gwoo, leong goo (China); khô n m shiitake, n m ro’m khô (Vietnam); kabuteng shiitakena pinatuyo (The Philippines).

SHIRATAKI

These translucent noodles, used in sukiyaki, are also referred to as white waterfall. Made from the starch of the tuberous root Amorphophallus konjack, sometimes called ‘devil’s tongue’, they are included in many soups and wet dishes. Also known as konnyaku or konjack, they are prized for their unique texture and translucent whiteness. They are usually sold in tins or floating in sealed plastic packets, ready to rinse and use in Japanese cooking.

SHRIMP SAUCE

Although not widely distributed as bagoong (The Philippines) or petis (Indonesia), this is sold at Asian grocery stores as ‘shrimp sauce’ or ‘shrimp paste’. Thick and greyish in colour, with a powerful odour, it is one of the essential ingredients in the food of Southeast Asia. Substitute dried shrimp paste (blacan) or anchovy sauce.

SICHUAN PEPPER

Botanical name: Xanthoxylum pipesitum

Family name: Rutaceae Often referred to as anise pepper or Chinese pepper, this is one of the ingredients of five-spice powder. Sichuan pepper is made from the dried berries of the prickly ash tree and is reddish-brown in colour. The shiny black seeds, which are very gritty, are discarded and the husks are used. It is easier to do than it sounds, as shaking the packet of peppers will make the empty husks rise to the top. They can be lightly roasted in a dry frying pan, pounded or crushed, then sifted and mixed with salt for a salt-and-pepper seasoning. It gives a tingling sensation when placed on the tongue. Also known as: faah jiu, hua chiao (China); sansho (Japan).

SICHUAN VEGETABLE

Mustard cabbage (gai choy) preserved in brine, with chilli added. It can be used as a relish, or included in dishes requiring piquancy and tang. Sold in tins.

SILVER FUNGUS

Also known as ‘white wood fungus’, this is so rare and expensive that it is used only in special festive dishes. Almost flavourless, it is prized for its crunchy texture and pretty appearance, and is also a ‘prestige’ food used to honour special guests. It is sold dried, by the gram; or in tins, cooked in a sweet syrup. However, the homemade version is infinitely preferable to the tinned silver fungus, which loses its texture through processing. Silver fungus is said to be very beneficial to pregnant women. Also known as: sit gnee (China); shiro kikurage (Japan); cendawan jelly puteh (Malaysia).

SOBA NOODLES

Very fine buckwheat noodles used in Japanese cooking. See notes on noodles.

SOMEN NOODLES

Very fine white wheatflour noodles used in Japanese cooking. As a substitute use very fine vermicelli. See notes on noodles.

SOY SAUCE

Indispensable in Asian cooking, this versatile sauce enhances the flavour of every basic ingredient in a dish. Different grades are available. Chinese cooking uses light soy and dark soy. The light soy is used with chicken or seafoods, or in soups where the delicate colour of the dish must be retained. Always use shoyu or Japanese soy sauce in Japanese cooking. In Indonesia, kecap manis, a thick, dark, sweetened soy, is often used. As a substitute, use dark Chinese soy with black or brown sugar added in the proportions given in recipes. All types of soy sauce keep indefinitely without refrigeration.

SPRING ONIONS

Botanical name: Allium cepa and fistulum

Family name: Liliceae

Also known as scallions or green onions in some parts of the world, this member of the onion family is known as ‘shallot’ in Australia, but is correctly called a spring onion almost everywhere else, although the term ‘scallion’ is popular in the United States. Spring onions are the thinnings of either Allium cepa or A. fistulum plantings that do not form a bulb. They are white and slender, with green leaves, and are used widely in China and Japan. Also known as: cõng (China); negi (Japan); phak boua sot (Laos); daun bawang (Malaysia); sibuyas na tagsibol (The Philippines).

SPRING ROLL PASTRY

Thin, white sheets of pliable pastry sold in plastic packets and kept frozen. Thaw and peel off one at a time (unused wrappers can be re-frozen). Large wrappers of the won ton type cannot be substituted.

STAR ANISE

Botanical name: Illicium verum

Family name: Magnoliaceae The dried, star-shaped fruit of an evergreen tree native to China and Vietnam, it usually consists of eight segments or points. It is essential in Chinese cooking and is one of the key flavours in the stock for the Vietnamese rice noodle soup, pho.

SWEET BEAN PASTE

Made from soy beans and sugar, this paste is used in sweet steamed buns or Chinese moon cakes. Also known as dow saah (China).

TAKUAN

Pickled daikon; widely used in Japanese cooking. It is available from Asian grocery stores and those specialising in Japanese ingredients.

TAMARIND

Botanical name: Tamarindus indica

Family name: Leguminoseae

The tamarind is a sour-tasting fruit of a large tropical tree. It is shaped like a large broad bean and has a brittle brown shell, inside which are shiny dark seeds covered with tangy brown flesh. Tamarind is dried into a pulp and sold in packets, as well as diluted with water and sold as a purée. These can vary in concentration. The pulp needs to be soaked first in hot water, then squeezed until it breaks up and dissolves. It needs to be strained before using. May be substituted with lemon juice. Also known as: imli (India); siyambala (Sri Lanka); mal kham (Laos); asam (Malaysia and Indonesia); som ma kham (Thailand); sampalok (The Philippines).

TANGERINE PEEL, DRIED

Sold in Chinese grocery stores, this gives an incomparable flavour to food. Substitute fresh tangerine or mandarin peel, or orange zest.

TAPIOCA FLOUR

Also known as tapioca starch, it is made from the dried washings of the cassava root. The flour provides a crisp coating on foods that are fried and is used in making many Asian sweets. Used to make sago and tapioca pearls.

TAUCHEO

See salted soy beans.

TOFU

There is an abundance of varieties of this versatile soy product available. Fresh tofu, or bean curd, is found in the refrigerator section of Asian grocery stores and most large supermarkets. It comes in many forms: silken, soft or firm. Silken tofu is sweeter and more delicate than firm tofu, with a different texture and flavour. Once opened, tofu will keep for 2-3 days in the refrigerator if immersed in cold water that is changed daily. Dried bean curd is sold in flat sheets or rounded sticks and needs no refrigeration. It has to be soaked before use — the sticks need longer soaking and cooking. Deep-fried tofu puffs are also available. Red bean curd is much more pungent than fresh bean curd, and has a flavour like smelly cheese. It is sold in bottles and used in certain sauces. Also known as: dow foo (China); tofu (Japan).

TULSI

Botanical name: Ocimum sanctum

Family name: Lamiaceae

The tiny black seed of the plant known as holy basil, so named because it is planted around temples. The seeds look like miniature black sesame seeds when dry, but soaked in water they develop a slippery, translucent coating. They are floated on cool, sweet drinks, for they are said to cool the body (a highly regarded attribute in hot countries). Although without flavour, they add an intriguing texture. Also known as: kus kus (Sri Lanka); luk manglak (Thailand).

TURMERIC

Botanical name: Curcuma Longa

Family name: Zingiberaceae

A rhizome of the ginger family, turmeric, with its orange-yellow colour, is a mainstay of commercial curry powders. Though often called Indian saffron, it should never be confused with true saffron and the two may not be used interchangeably. Also known as: haldi (India); kaha (Sri Lanka); fa nwin, sa nwin (Burma); kunyit (Indonesia); khamin (Thailand); romiet (Cambodia); wong geung fun (China); kunyit (Malaysia); ukon (Japan); cú nghê, ngh (Vietnam); dilau (The Philippines).

UDON NOODLES

Thick wheat flour noodles used in Japanese cooking. Substitute spaghetti. See notes on noodles.

VIETNAMESE MINT

Botanical name: Persicaria odorata and odoratum

Family name: Polygonaceae

Variously known as laksa leaves, Vietnamese coriander and Cambodian mint, this easy to propagate herb delivers a none too subtle kick to laksa, as well as salads and other dishes. It has a curious, slightly numbing effect on the tongue. Also known as: rau ram (Vietnam); daun kesom, daun laksa (Malaysia); daun kesom, daun laksa (Singapore); chee sang hom, chee pwarng teja koon (Cambodia); phak pheo (Laos); phak phai, phrik maa, chan chom, hom chan (Thailand).

WAKAME

A type of seaweed with long, narrow ribbon-like strands. Sold dried, it must be soaked before use in Japanese cooking. It is used in soups and relishes.

WALNUTS

Botanical name: Juglans regia

Walnuts used in Chinese dishes should be the peeled walnuts sold in Asian grocery stores, as the thin skin (which turns bitter with cooking) has been removed. Avoid black-skinned walnuts, and if peeled walnuts are not available, use either fresh California walnuts or the tinned, salted walnuts also sold at Asian grocery stores; the latter do not need further cooking.

WASABI

Botanical name: Wasabia japonica

A pungent green horseradish used by the Japanese. It is available ready to use as a paste sold in tubes or in dried, powdered form in tins. It is reconstituted (like dry mustard) by the addition of a little cold water.

WATER CHESTNUTS

Botanical name: Eliocharis dulcis

Family name: Cyperaceae Used mainly for their texture in Asian cooking. Sometimes available fresh, their brownish black skin must be peeled away with a sharp knife, leaving the crisp, slightly sweet white kernel. They are also available in tins, already peeled and in some instances sliced. After opening, store in water in the refrigerator for 7–10 days, changing the water daily. Yam bean (jicama) may be substituted if water chestnut is unavailable. Dried, powdered water chestnut starch is used as an alternative to cornflour for coating delicate meat such as chicken breast when deep-frying, as it helps lock in the juices. Also known as: ye thit eir thee (Burma); pani phul (India); tike (Indonesia); haeo-song krathiem; haeo cheen (Thailand); go nung (Vietnam); apulid (The Philippines); mah tai (China); kuwai, kurogu-wai (Japan).

WINTER BAMBOO SHOOTS

See bamboo shoots.

WON TON WRAPPERS

Small squares of fresh noodle dough available at most supermarkets and Asian grocery stores. They can be refrigerated for up to 1 week if well wrapped in plastic, or can be wrapped in foil and frozen. Sold by weight, there are approximately 60 wrappers to a 300 g packet.

WOOD FUNGUS

Botanical name: Auricalaria polytricha

Also known as ‘cloud ear fungus’ or ‘jelly mushrooms’, wood fungus is sold by weight, and in its dry state looks like greyish black pieces of torn paper. Soaked in hot water for 10 minutes, it swells to translucent brown shapes like curved clouds or a rather prettily shaped ear — hence the name ‘cloud ear fungus’. With its flavourless resilience it is a perfect example of a texture ingredient, adding no taste of its own but taking on subtle flavours from the foods with which it is combined. Cook for only 1–2 minutes. Also known as: wun yee (China); kikurage (Japan); kuping tikus (Malaysia); kuping jamu (Indonesia); hed hunu (Thailand).

YAM BEAN ( JICAMA)

Botanical name: Pachyrhizus erosus and P. angulatus

Curiously, the growers’ notes say this plant of the legume family, which bears seed pods, has tubers which may be boiled like a potato. That is the last thing I would use them for. The main appeal of yam bean is the sweet crisp crunch of its white, uncooked flesh. I would recommend using it raw, peeled and sliced or diced, in salads or sweets; or even lightly cooked in stir-fries, where it might retain some of its characteristic crunch. Yam beans are a very acceptable substitute for water chestnuts, when they are unavailable. Also known as: saa got, dou-su (China); sankalu (India); bengkowang (Indonesia); kuzu-imu (Japan); bangkwang, singkwang (Malaysia); singkamas (The Philippines); man kaew (Thailand); cu san (Vietnam).

YELLOW BEAN SAUCE

See salted soy beans (taucheo).

YELLOW BEANS, SALTED

Very similar to tinned salted black beans, but lighter in colour. Use in dishes in the same way as salted black beans. See black beans, salted.

YOGHURT

For recipes in this book, use unflavoured (plain) yoghurt (preferably one with a pronounced acid flavour) such as Greek-style yoghurt or sheep or goat’s milk yoghurt.

To Reuben, who married me before I learned to cook.

Completely revised and updated in 2011

First published in 1976

Published in 2011 by Hardie Grant Books

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National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication Data:

Author: Solomon, Charmaine, 1930-

Title: The Complete Asian Cookbook / Charmaine Solomon.

Edition: 2011 ed.

eISBN: 9781742736976 (hbk.)

Subjects: Cooking, Asian. Cooking, Oriental.

Dewey Number: 641.595

Publishing Director: Paul McNally

Project Manager and Editor: Jacqueline Blanchard

Design Manager: Heather Menzies

Print design Concept: Clare O’Loughlin

Photographer: Alan Benson

Stylist: Vanessa Austin

Production Manager: Penny Sanderson

Digital editor: Hannah Koelmeyer

The publisher would like to thank Bison Homewares, Mud Australia and Porters Paints