Survivalist Magazine Special Edition Editor’s Choice

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Editor’s Choice Table of Contents:

(This Survivalist Magazine Editor’s Choice Edition is a collection of hand picked articles from the first 8 issues of Survivalist Magazine. For your convenience, a link has been placed at the end of each article directing you to the issue on the Kindle bookstore where you can view each issue. )

Issue #1 Get it on Kindle >>

The Only True Currency in a Post-Collapse World – Ed Corcoran

Homeschooling: A Family Matter - Julia Soliday

Issue #2 Get it on Kindle >>

Building Your Survival Arsenal on Budget - Ed Corcoran

How to Treat Gunshot Wounds Naturally - Robert Scott Bell

Issue #3 Get it on Kindle >>

How to Build an Earthbag Survival Shelter - Owen Geiger

Home Distilling - The Spirit(s) of Self-Reliance - John Burks

Issue #4 Get it on Kindle >>

Collapse Medicine: How to Suture Wounds - Dr. Bones

Wild Edibles - Sergei Boutenko

Issue #5 Get it on Kindle >>

Surviving An EMP - Mat Stein

Built To Last: The Top 3 Alternative Building Methods for Homes That Will Survive - Corcceigh Green

Issue #6 Get it on Kindle >>

Survival Reloading Presses and Other Gear - Doug Bell

2012: Do We Really Have One Year Left? - Ed Corcoran

Issue #7 Get it on Kindle >>

How to Build a Solar Still - Eric Smith

How to Build Your own Generator -  Larry Pendell

Issue #8 Get it on Kindle >>

The Reality of TEOTWAWKI and Strategies for Survival - Lisa Bedford, The Survival Mom

Surviving Yourself: Privacy and Preparation - Darin Williams

NEVER, NEVER Surrender!! - Anonymous, Commentary by Doug Bell

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The Only True Currency in a Post-Collapse World

“It May Not Be What You Think"

by Ed Corcoran

If you’ve been looking into ways to safeguard your financial survival in this rapidly deteriorating economy, you may have heard a lot of talk about investing in physical gold, silver and other precious metals. Considering that our debt-based economy is unsustainable and our currency can best be described as an illusion, this would seem like pretty good advice. In fact, it’s advice that I once adhered to myself, and have passed along to others. Gold and silver have always been "money" ever since humans first conceived the concept of commerce - and so it would seem to make sense that owning precious metals will lock your assets into something much more stable (and tangible) than U.S. dollars. But things are not always as they seem.

First of all, if you’re thinking that the increasing value of gold means that you’ll enjoy a good return on your investment, you might want to think twice about that. Precious metal merchants like Goldline and other such huksters have been baiting people with the allure of big profits from gold investments for years (even more so since people have become increasingly fearful of the economy) but these profits are mostly smoke and mirrors.

The only reason why the price of gold goes up is not because it becomes more valuable, or that demand increases, but because the dollar keeps getting less valuable. Selling your gold for twice as much as you paid for it is a zero net gain if the dollar is worth half as much as it did when you bought the gold.

While it may be true that buying gold and silver may be better than leaving your money in the bank when it comes to protecting your assets during a recession, or even a depression, this will only work as long as our economy (such as it is) continues to exist. In the event of a full-blown economic melt-down (and the societal collapse that’s sure to follow) you may find that your precious metals will be as worthless to your survival as the fiat currency it was purchased it with.

In order to fully wrap your head around this, you have to undergo a paradigm shift in the way you think about what’s truly valuable. The value of gold and silver is just as much a myth as the illusion that our currency (or the numbers in your bank account) is actually worth something. It’s a symbiotic relationship. Paper money doesn’t have any value without gold or silver to back it up, and conversely, gold and silver don’t have any value without a monetary amount to attach to it. It all comes down to perception and what we’ve been brainwashed to believe. Take away one side of the equation and the other side ceases to have any meaning.

The only thing that makes any article of trade valuable (whether it’s U.S. dollars, gold coins, or pretty stones) is demand. In the aftermath of an economic, or societal collapse, you can be sure that there won’t be any demand for silver and gold for a good long while.

In an "end-of-the-world-as-we-know-it" scenario (which is sure to ensue when this house-of-cards economy comes crashing down) the only items of value will be the things that are useful for one’s survival or sustainability. Offering somebody gold or silver coins in exchange for something that you need will be about as effective as offering them a bag full of rocks, for all the good it will do them.

Now this is where someone usually pipes up and says: "Don’t be ridiculous... Why wouldn’t anyone want to trade in gold? They can always use it to buy other things!"

Really?? From where? Gold is only useful if you have a place to spend it. There aren’t going to be any more banks, or Wal-Marts, or supermarkets or convenience stores.

They’ll be wiped out within hours (or minutes) after the proverbial shit hits the fan.

You can’t eat gold, or use it to procure food... It won’t keep you warm at night... You can’t build a shelter with it, or use it to protect yourself and your family. In fact, in a post-collapse world, a bar of lead would become more valuable than a bar of gold. At least you can make bullets from it, which will provide food and protection.

Instead of focusing on safeguarding your assets and hanging on to your wealth, you’d be better served by investing your money in a rural homestead or retreat, with all the equipment, tools and supplies that you will need to survive in a post-collapse world. After the economy crashes, the barter system will be all we have left, so you should also consider storing up a surplus of items that can be used for trade, such as seeds, fuel, ammunition, food, liquor, etc.

Services can be traded for goods as well, so if you have any skills that are useful for sustainability, such as carpentry, metallurgy, gardening, mechanics, ammunition loading, etc., they can become a valuable asset. Learn as many of the skills that are required for self-sufficiency as possible. Not only for the sake of trade, but also for your own independence. The more that you can provide for yourself, the less reliant you will be on others.

Learn to live with less... How much of the stuff that you own is really essential to your survival? That wide-screen plasma TV, or expensive car might be nice items to have, but they won’t do anybody any good after the collapse. If you’re really serious about survival, you should consider selling off some of your big-ticket toys while you can still find buyers for them, and reinvest the money in something useful.

It’s no longer a question of if there’s going to be an economic collapse; it’s a question of when. This economic model was doomed for failure ever since we went off the gold standard in 1971, and the Obama administration has done more to speed up the process than any other president in history (all the while blaming Bush and spinning the numbers). Buying gold and silver is not going to be the key to your survival. Necessary goods and services will be the only true currency in the post-collapse world.

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Homeschooling: A Family Matter

by Julia Soliday

Have you ever thought about educating your child at home? If so, have you ever given it a second thought? Most parents haven’t even heard of it before, much less given it a thought. What they tell me is that their kids are getting a proper education at their schools. Or so they think. Regrettably, what we think is not always the same thing as what is true.

Conformity, rather than academics, is the emphasis of contemporary education. Kids are rigorously tutored in the art of getting along with their government-assigned peers while being provided with just enough actual instruction to get them through to the next year of school. Generally what they are taught is not enough to get them into a decent college, let alone what would be necessary to enable them make a decent living for their own families when they’re grown up.

I want better than that for my children. Rather than settling for a path chosen for them by some officious stranger, I want them to have enough education to pick their own path to success. It’s my responsibility to make sure my kids grow up understanding that they are important human beings who are capable of achieving great things and of taking care of themselves. Children who grow up in the public school setting are not getting that now and things are not looking good that it will change any time soon.

The government schools produce a steady parade of people suited for life in a collectivist hive, where some will be workers, others will be soldiers, and more than a few will be drones. Our kids deserve better than this. They deserve the chance to be brilliant in their own right, choosing whom they want to be, doing what they want to do, and going as far as their passion and commitment can take them. My job is only to give them the tools that they need to make that happen for themselves and not let their paths be dictated to them by an Old World "rule of thumb" teacher using New World tactics.

As a new parent just seven short years ago, I thought that my kids would go to school with the rest of the kids their own age and learn what the other ones are learning. That’s an option that could very easily disappear if something really terrible were to happen.

What would be the educational prospects for our children in the wake of a full-fledged economic collapse, or other social upheaval? What will happen to their schools? Who will teach them? It is our responsibility as parents to make sure that we are prepared to teach our children at home in case any possible catastrophic scenario takes place that is beyond our control. The education of our children is paramount if something like that were to happen.

Knowing where to get homeschooling materials and supplies is a necessity that every parent should be thinking about, even those not currently educating their children at home. Homeschooling websites and places to get free and low-cost free materials are becoming easier to find with each passing day. Just type "homeschooling" in any search engine on the web and you’ll see the over 14 million results. It’s an incredible thing that this much information is available to parents.

The web abounds in great online curricula for homeschoolers. However, in the event of an emergency, it would be crucial to have some actual books and other hard-copy materials on hand. You want to be able to educate your children when the schools have to be closed or any emergency situation comes along. You want to prepare for almost anything, and educating your children is no exception.

Start collecting some great resources now while you’re thinking about it, and start looking at everything that’s available for you and your kids. Get some basic materials for reading, writing, math, and some arts and crafts projects. It doesn’t take much to have a great collection of functional homeschooling items ready for whenever you might need them.

Hit some local yard sales, garage sales, estate sales, or even the library for some great deals on good books for your home school. Browse through the web to find the best deals now while you have the time. Keeping appropriate age and grade level workbooks and reading books for the current ages of your children is a good idea, and if you don’t use them this year, you can always sell them or give them to someone who will use them later. You should be ready to do this at a moment’s notice if you need to.

Is homeschooling difficult? It certainly can be at times, but it’s well worth the trouble and effort once a parent sees his child learning and putting things together for himself. That’s the fun part of the learning process. This is being done every day by the estimated 900,000 to 2 million children being homeschooled right now.*

There is nothing better for you as a parent than to know that your kids’ education will continue even in catastrophic circumstances. Children need to know that even in a dire emergency, all of their needs will be taken care of, including their education.

Here are some of my favorite sites to get information about homeschooling, curriculum, materials, and laws in your state about homeschooling:

http://hslda.org/  Home page for the Home School Legal Defense Association. Great site to look up the laws pertaining to homeschooling in your state and what is required to maintain educational standards with global news updates about homeschooling. A much-needed resource for homeschoolers in any state.

http://www.home-school.com/groups  This is a great site for information about homeschooling groups and organizations in your area, with plenty of articles and curriculum ideas.

http://homeschooling.about.com/  General information about homeschooling with articles, links, and a discussion forum to discuss ideas and issues about homeschooling.

https://www.k-12freehomeschool.org/  Free Creation-based online curriculum. The only cost is the shipping for the multimedia CDs. The elective classes do cost extra but the core classes are free for K through 12th grade.

http://www.lessonpathways.com/  Free Unit Studies online curriculum for K through 5th grade. Our family loves this site.

http://sitesforteachers.com/  The ultimate directory site for homeschooling web sites. Practically anything can be found here. I haven’t been through all of this one yet. It’s that huge!

http://children.calvarychapel.com/site/curriculum.htm Free Bible study curriculum for K through 4th grade.

http://www.padfield.com/downloads/curriculum.html  Free Bible study curriculum for elementary students.

http://www.aophomeschooling.com/diagnostic-tests-sos.php  Free placement tests to assess where your child is in terms of grade level in each subject area. This is a very useful tool.

http://school.familyeducation.com/home-schooling/alternative-education/56352.html "How Many Homeschoolers Are There?" Family Education website, September 5, 2010.

Julia Soliday is an independent freelance writer, activist and mother of two. She has been homeschooling her children for the last three years, and has no intention of doing otherwise.

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Building Your Survival Arsenal on Budget

by Ed Corcoran

Most experienced “preppers” and survivalists are aware that a “survival arsenal” is an absolute necessity nobody can afford to overlook. This doesn’t mean building an armory, or starting a one-man militia. But possessing at least the basic firearms “trinity” – a handgun, rifle, and shotgun – is indispensable in order to be adequately prepared for self-defense and hunting both large and small game.

Firearms are tools and there is no such thing as an “all-purpose” gun.  Just as you wouldn’t try to hammer nails with a crescent wrench, or cut firewood with a hack-saw, you shouldn’t rely on any single firearm to cover all your survival needs. While it may be possible to hunt with a handgun, or defend yourself with a rifle, your chances of survival are much greater if you have the right tools for each job.

However, in this economy, many preppers have a tough enough time trying to meet every-day expenses, let alone assembling food stores and acquiring essential survival gear. Guns can be pretty expensive, so it’s little wonder that a lot of people put off acquiring the firearms needed in order to be self-sufficient and well protected.

Conversely, other preppers catch “gun fever” or GAS (Gun Acquisition Syndrome) and end up spending too much money on the latest or sexiest guns that they don’t really need.  This can be both costly and dangerous: If you have invested thousands of dollars in high-end guns and ammo, but only have a case of beans and a couple of MREs stored in your pantry, you may want to reconsider your priorities.

Fortunately, there are plenty of high-quality, low-cost options for preppers on a budget. It is easy to build a very respectable three-gun arsenal for around $600. No, your firearms probably won’t garner envious stares from anyone at the gun club or shooting range, and they won’t have any of the high-end (and largely unnecessary) bells and whistles, but they will meet the required needs of food procurement and protection for yourself and your family.

The first place to look would be in used and military surplus markets.  The military and local police departments frequently trade in significant quantities of firearms for newer models.  Though they may be heavily used, these guns are by no means used up. While it’s true that guns that come from these institutions have most likely taken a beating, there should still be plenty of life left in them. Quality firearms are designed and built to last for generations.

Furthermore, since all reputable gun shops want happy customers, most of them will make sure that their used inventory is brought up to optimal operating condition before being put up for sale. They may have dings, scratches and holster-wear, or may require minor adjustments here or there, but on the whole, they should be reliable and welcome additions to anyone’s arsenal.

Some gun dealers may allow you to test-fire a used gun. Others may not, or don’t  have the facilities to do so. If you’re a novice or a first-time gun buyer, the best bet is to bring a knowledgeable friend along who can check out the gun and identify any potential issues.  Ideally, you should take some time beforehand to familiarize yourself with the gun you intend to buy.  Many shooting ranges or gun clubs will have a variety of firearms available for rent.  They may not have the exact brand or model that you’re looking to buy, but they should have something of a similar type/configuration/caliber.  Not only will this give you a sense of how a firearm in optimal condition should feel and function, but it’s also an opportunity to try a variety of different guns to determine which ones you feel most comfortable with. Getting a good deal on a .357 Magnum will be worthless to you if you discover later that the gun is too heavy for you to wield effectively, or you can’t handle the recoil. So try out as many different types as you can before buying.

Below are my recommendations for building a survival arsenal of high-quality, accurate and reliable firearms that you can buy without being forced to skip any meals.  They may not be the prettiest or sexiest guns out there, but they’re all reliable workhorses.  As they say: the ugly gun you own will protect you a lot better than the fancy one you’re saving up for.

Shotgun

There’s an awful lot of debate as to which type of firearm you should get first, as well as which is the “best” brand, model, caliber and configuration in each category. Everyone has his own opinion, and none of them is more correct than any other.  Ultimately, it really does come down to a matter of one’s personal preference and particular situation. Please bear this in mind, and don’t get upset if your favorite didn’t make the list, or if your opinion differs from mine.

That being said, in my humble opinion, I think a 12-gauge shotgun is the best place to start building your arsenal.  That’s not just because I really like shotguns, which I do, but also because they’re absolutely the most versatile of the trinity in terms of self-defense and food procurement (see Chance Sanders’ article on page 24). However, they do have some limitations, such as range and concealability.  For accurate, high-velocity shooting over longer distances, a rifle is preferred.  And you can’t exactly walk around with a shotgun concealed about your person (“Is that a Mossberg down your pants -- or are you just happy to see me?”).  However, if I were in a SHTF situation and could only have one gun, I’d prefer it be a pump-action, 12-gauge shotgun with a shoulder stock.  But that’s just me.

You can easily find a good, used scattergun for $200 or less. Obviously, you’ll do better at staying within the $600 budget by buying used, but there are a few excellent affordable shotguns which can be had for short cash and won’t make you feel like you’re settling for less.  Most notable among these are the Remington 870 Express(pictured 1st), Mossberg 500(pictured 2nd) and Winchester 1300(pictured 3rd)

While these are all “inexpensive” guns (they each retail new for around $300), they are by no means “cheap.”  Each of these particular shotguns is made to take a beating and should still be in service long after you and I have shuffled off this mortal coil.  By way of illustration: The Mossberg 500 has the distinction of being the only shotgun to pass the U.S. Army’s grueling Mil-Spec 3443E endurance test.  Each has a long history of loyal owners and debates continually rage over which one is “best.”  In reality, they’re all pretty much identical, and the minor differences that distinguish them largely come down to personal preference (weight, location of the safety, etc.). A large variety of interchangeable barrels, chokes, upgrades and accessories is available for each. You really can’t go wrong with any one of them -- and if you can find one used, so much the better!

Revolver

I know some may disagree, but I recommend first getting a double-action revolver as a survival handgun.  The reasons are basic reliability and simplicity.  Sure, semi-automatic pistols can hold more rounds, are faster to load, and generally lighter and easier to conceal. But they’re also more complicated and high-maintenance -- prone to jams and feeding problems. They can also be finicky about the ammunition you use.

In a survival situation, simplicity and predictability are at a premium: You need your gun to do only one thing when you pull the trigger, and that’s hurl hot lead at anyone who means to deprive you of life.  With a revolver, you can count on that happening 99.9 percent of the time.  And in the rare event the cartridge doesn’t fire, you can always pull the trigger again to cycle the cylinder to the next round.  You can’t do that with a pistol. If your semi-auto jams, you might as well throw the gun at your attacker and hope you clock him on the head!

Revolvers are easy to clean and maintain. They work well when dirty, they don’t care if they’re fed cheap ammo, and they hardly ever need to be repaired.  In a post-collapse world, where will you take your semi-auto if it needs to be fixed?  Where will you get replacement parts?  Unless you’re already skilled at gun repair and have an inventory of spare parts, the failure of even a small spring can turn your prized pistol into an expensive paperweight.

Bear in mind that I’m not saying you shouldn’t own a semi-auto pistol; I’m just saying you should get a revolver first.  And in the spirit of survival on a budget, you don’t really want to “go cheap” with a semi-automatic. So while you’re saving up for a good pistol, you should have an affordable revolver to fill the handgun role in the meantime.

I recommend either a .38 Special(pictured 1st) or .357 Magnum(pictured 2nd) with a 3-4 inch barrel.   Shorter, small-frame snubbies may be better for concealed carry, but they’re not as well balanced, which makes them harder to fire accurately.  Also, due to their smaller size, they typically only hold 5 rounds.  In a SHTF situation, I’m not so much concerned about how well it can be concealed as I am about accuracy and that extra cartridge.

The .38 Special has served well as the standard police-issue side-arm for decades and some officers still carry one.  It has adequate stopping power and ammunition is cheap and abundant. You really can’t go wrong with a .38 Special. However, my personal preference is the .357 Magnum, as it can use both .357 Mag and .38 Special cartridges (but it doesn’t work the other way around. You can’t fire .357 Mag rounds in a .38 Special revolver) This gives you the option to use the cheaper .38 Special rounds for practice, or if you can’t handle the recoil of the more powerful .357 Mag rounds. Also, in a post-collapse world, you may not always be able to find your ammo of choice, so it’s good to have another option.

Ultimately, the caliber you choose should be something that you feel comfortable with. However, I am among those who don’t recommend going any smaller than 9mm.  A handgun’s primary function is self-defense, with the goal of stopping the attacker.  I reckon a .22 revolver or pistol could deter an attacker, but if a hungry looter is intent on taking what you and your family need to survive and/or possibly killing you, do you really want to deter him -- or do you want to stop him?

Whatever you choose, stick with well-known, quality manufacturers.  Don’t be tempted by bargain basement prices from a maker you (or your experienced friends) have never heard of.  Chances are good that a cheap gun won’t hold up over time and may fail just when you need it the most. Lower-end, (yet decent-quality) revolvers can be found for under $400 brand-new, but you should be able to find something as good, or better, for  less money if you buy used.  If you’ve just gotta have a new one, manufacturers such as: Taurus, Ruger, Charter Arms, Dan Wesson, and CZ all have good reputations as makers of low(er) cost revolvers and pistols.

Rifle

For a survival rifle on a budget, I would recommend acquiring a good bolt-action rifle from the military surplus market.  Surplus ammo for these rifles is very cheap, but it’s also corrosive, which means you’ll have to be diligent about cleaning after you shoot them.  Non-corrosive ammo is available, but it costs quite a bit more.  Some people criticize the use of corrosive surplus ammo, but I think as long as you make sure you clean your rifle properly after each use, you should have no problems.

Listed below are my top three picks for surplus rifles on a budget.  This is by no means a comprehensive list, but it’s a good place to start.  Make sure you have any surplus rifle checked out by a gunsmith before you fire it.

My top pick (and one of the most popular military surplus rifles) is the Mosin-Nagant. (pictured below)  This rifle, has been around since 1891 and was the standard-issue Soviet army rifle during World War II, was also used as a sniper rifle.  Since then, they’ve been manufactured by several countries (including the U.S.) in a number of variations. You can easily find one for cheap - under $100 in most cases - and you won’t have any problems finding ammo (7.62x54R) and accessories for it.

Another top choice in military surplus is the Lee-Enfield No. 4. (pictured below)  This rifle was adopted by the British military in 1941 and can be found in a number of variations for under $200.  Ammunition for this rifle is fairly easy to find.  The British-made version uses .303 British cartridges, while the Indian-made 2A Enfield is chambered for 7.26mm NATO rounds.

The Yugoslav M48 Mauser is a variation of the German Mauser and was manufactured in the former Yugoslavia between 1950 and 1965.  Due to the fact that a majority of these rifles were kept in storage by the Yugoslavian government until the country’s collapse, the ones you’ll find in the U.S. are typically in near-new condition.  Average cost is around $150 and the M48 Mauser uses 8mm cartridges.

All the rifles listed above are suitable for deer hunting.  If you plan on going after smaller critters, you can easily find a .22, .22 Mag, or an air rifle cheaply enough at retail/sporting goods stores. If bears or moose are a concern where you live (or where you plan to be when TSHTF), it’s a lot cheaper to get a rifled barrel for your shotgun and shoot slugs than to buy a large caliber rifle.  It won’t have as much range, but that’s not an issue for me.  I don’t hunt bear, and I doubt I need 100 yards to defend myself from one.  Actually, you don’t even need the rifled barrel.  The right slugs through a smooth-bore will hit 50 yards.

Keep in mind that ammunition is also a part of your arsenal, and you’ll have to figure that expense into your budget as well.  Make sure that whatever guns you buy use ammo that’s cheap and commonly found.  How much ammo should you get?  Well -- as far as I’m concerned, “too much” is never enough.  You should stock as much ammo as you can afford.  Some people consider lead (in the form of ammo) to be among the “noble metals,” a group that includes gold and silver – and it is perhaps the most valuable of the three. Ammunition will be more valuable than gold when everything goes sideways, so consider it an investment in your future.

Also, don’t forget about optics and other accessories and upgrades that are essential for making your firearms function as effectively as possible.  A good scope, for example, could make the difference between bagging that critter or going hungry.  Especially when hunting squirrel or rabbit.

Finally, any gun is worthless in the hands of someone who isn’t trained to use it properly.  Figure on taking some classes and practicing regularly.  If your plan is to buy a gun and stick it under your bed, or in a drawer, you might as well have a baseball bat.  That would be a lot cheaper for you, and safer for everyone else.

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Treating Gunshot Wounds Naturally

by Robert Scott Bell

If it survives Constitutional challenges, “Obamacare” is certain to hasten the demise of the medical monopoly by accelerating the ongoing exodus of doctors from the profession and bankrupting the remaining system. Accordingly, it is a good idea to develop a degree of medical self-sufficiency, which is among the most vital skills for a survivalist. This includes the ability to deal with traumatic injuries, such as gunshots.

There are thousands of articles and authoritative texts describing the medical methodologies in treating gunshot wounds, so I will not rehash here what you can be read elsewhere. However, there are very few articles addressing homeopathic, herbal and mineral options such as those used on the battlefield during the War Between the States. Learning and adapting those methods is a valuable exercise, especially as we approach a time when government-sanctioned doctors may become scarce.

Homeopathic medicine is a medical system used worldwide for more than two centuries to provide care for both acute trauma care and chronic, long-term illnesses. This includes field medicine practiced on battlefields. Russian field medics under General Alexander Korsakov made extensive use of homeopathy in their campaign against Bonaparte. As a visit to any Civil War museum will illustrate, both Union and Confederate soldiers carried homeopathic first aid kits.

In a crisis, self-sufficiency, or health sovereignty as I like to call it, is made possible by knowledge of homeopathy, along with medicinal herbs and supporting minerals. It is critical to have these vital natural tools on hand, and to know how to use them. We can learn a great deal by “going forward to the past,” as it were – and some of what we learn could be of life-and-death importance if you or a loved one should suffer a traumatic injury, particularly by gunshot.

Whenever a homeopathic medicine/remedy is described, people are inclined to ask for a recommended potency. The most critical factor is the right remedy, not the right potency, so make use of whatever is available. Let the body and its symptoms be your guide. If pain is persistent and intense, frequent dosing is best. As pain subsides, doses may be spaced further and further apart until no longer needed.

My preferred dosing scheme is: 10x, 12x, 15x, 6c, 12c, 6x, 30x or 30c. Frequent repetitive dosing (hourly or more frequently) is necessary nearest the time of acute trauma, gradually moving to less frequent dosing as the victim improves further from crisis. The dosing schedule reduction could span from hours to days to weeks – whatever it takes.

Blood Loss

The immediate priority in dealing with a traumatic injury such as a gunshot is slowing or stopping blood loss. After applying pressure or – if necessary – a tourniquet, immediately begin treatment with oral doses of homeopathic bellis perenis and phosphorus. This will help stop the bleeding. Diluted Bellis (daisy) tincture can also be applied locally. Healthy blood clotting can also be aided by administration of foods and supplements rich in Vitamin K, such as alfalfa, amaranth leaves, beet greens, brussels sprouts, chard, collards, kale, mustard greens, sea kelp, spinach and turnip greens.

How do you rebuild blood plasma volume when the Red Cross is nowhere to be found? Although it’s largely forgotten now, during World War II (particularly in the Pacific theatre), soldiers who had significant blood loss were given intravenous infusions of coconut water to maintain circulatory plasma volume until red blood cells could be replenished. Also erased from the medical history books is knowledge of French biologist and researcher Rene Quinton, who proved that you could restore life even in the case of dangerous blood loss by infusing isotonic solutions of clean sea water. In his monumental book L’eau de mer, milieu organique (“Sea Water, organic medium”), Quinton established scientifically the organic relationship between sea water and blood plasma.

Rebuilding blood volume can be assisted by increasing intake of chlorophyll, beets, alfalfa, Folate, B12, and Vitamin C – all of which enhance the efficiency of iron assimilation. Homeopathic Ferrum Phosphoricum is also very helpful for more efficient use of iron. Replenishing trace elements will greatly accelerate recovery in those who have suffered blood loss. Another means by which this is accomplished is through oral ingestion of brine from ancient sea bed mineral salts. Sea vegetation (sea weed) is another tremendous source of nutrients for rebuilding the blood.

Tissue Damage

Whenever there is tissue trauma and shock, homeopathic Arnica Montana and Arnica tincture is your best friend! The tincture can be applied topically but is not for ingestion.

Should any bone breaks or fractures occur, diluted Symphytum tincture, otherwise known as Comfrey, Boneset or knitbone, can be applied topically. Homeopathic Symphytum and Silicea are taken internally to speed the healing of bone tissue. Increasing dietary Silica will also greatly accelerate healthy re-growth of connective tissue, whether it is bone, cartilage, tendon, muscle, vascular or neurological. If there is injury to the skull or brain, both Arnica and homeopathic Natrum sulfuricum are absolutely essential.

How do we prevent or eliminate infection, while accelerating tissue healing without scarring? No natural substance on planet earth does more to promote rapid healing of damage and/or infected tissue than silver. Colloidal silver can be made at home; however, barring end-of-world scenarios, I prefer the efficacy of silver hydrosol, which contains only the active state of silver in pharmaceutical grade purified water.

Silver reduces inflammation to damaged tissue upon contact, while simultaneously stimulating stem cell production locally for rapid restoration of tissue integrity. The process of de-differentiation and re-differentiation of stem cells is a normal and necessary process for healthy tissue regeneration. Silver just happens to accelerate the process greatly.

Silver also retards and eliminates infection by disrupting bacterial and fungal membranes. It can even bind with DNA so that the pathogens can no longer reproduce. If the silver particles are small enough (as they are by definition in silver hydrosol), they can bind with viral particles to prevent or reverse viral infection as well, which is critical because viral particles need damaged tissue in order to access areas of the body where the immune system is stressed.

Among the many astounding properties inherent to silver is the way it works as an oxygen sponge. It can carry up to ten times its atomic weight in oxygen, the warmer it gets. This feeds copious amounts of oxygen to the white blood cells of your own immune system, enhancing the production of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), which fights infection from within.

In addition to topical or local administration, silver hydrosol should also be taken internally – hourly in the early stages of recovery, and then less frequently as the victim recovers from the crisis. The silver should be held sublingually before swallowing, if possible, to increase absorption into the lymphatic system for maximum dispersion and immune system benefit.

For those concerned about turning blue by ingesting too much silver, utilizing silver hydrosol eliminates that possibility, as it has a safety profile more like a homeopathic remedy than a silver salt. Silver salts and other silver compounds are the forms of silver that have a difficult time being excreted from the body. (See safety profile below.)

Should there be tissue damage due to burns from bullets fired at close range, homeopathic Apis and Cantharis should be taken orally to reduce burn-associated pain. For nerve pain, take homeopathic Hypericum. Arnica should also be taken to reduce the tissue shock/trauma. Clean the affected area with silver hydrosol (or colloidal silver) and apply silver (soaked on sterile gauze), silver gel, or silver/aloe vera combination gel as a salve, then cover. Silver is also an excellent pain reducer, especially when nerve tissue is directly impacted, because the nerves cells have two receptor sites specifically to receive silver. This explains the normalization of sensation and function that I have seen with nerve injury and even peripheral neuropathy.

If the skin blisters, take homeopathic Rhus tox. If it becomes infected, first use homeopathic Arsenicum album. If the wound oozes pus, then utilize homeopathic Hepar sulfur. Apply silver topically throughout the healing process.

If there is poisoning due to lead bullet fragments remaining in the body, daily administration of homeopathic Plumbum metallicum will help the body to more efficiently deal with the burden. Increasing the trace mineral Selenium will also assist in heavy metal removal. Use at least 200 micrograms (mcg) a day. Other substances known to bind heavy metals and remove them from the body include Cilantro and vegetable glycerine. Far infrared heat/light saunas are also another means by which you can accelerate metal detoxification. In the case of these saunas, you are able to release fat soluble toxins and sweat them out through the skin, thus reducing the burden on your liver and kidneys.

Open Wound Care

In the case where wounds are very large and the skin is completely lost, silver, once again is the top priority. Third-degree burn care centers worldwide use a silver based medicine (Silver sulfadiazine) in order to accelerate skin re-growth, even when grafts are not possible. We’ve already discussed the use of silver topically, but silver hydrosol can also be used to debride the wound as necessary as the tissue heals. For those in southern climates, aloe vera may also be plentiful. If you do not have access to aloe, Calendula and Echinacea are excellent botanicals that can be used to accelerate tissue healing.

Restoring the integrity of the connective tissue (skin, bone, muscle, tendon, cartilage, nervous system, vascular system) is dependent upon adequate amounts of dietary silicon (silica). The highest concentrations are found in horsetail extract. I would recommend at least 5000 mg per day during recovery. Using this overlooked mineral can mean healing in weeks, rather than months. The homeopathic form (Silicea) can be taken daily as well throughout the healing process.

Pain

On my radio program I have interviewed many doctors on the subject of pain. Perhaps the most profound revelation in pain reduction was provided by Dr. Joseph Maroon, chief neurosurgeon for the Pittsburgh Steelers professional football team. Rather than dispensing pharmaceutical drugs for injuries and nerve pain, Dr. Maroon proved that fish oils containing EPA and DHA were at least as effective, if not more so, at reducing pain and inflammation throughout injury recovery.

In the botanical family, white willow bark tincture is sometimes called nature’s aspirin, but is actually much safer than the synthetic aspirin approved by the FDA. St. John’s Wort (Hypericum) is excellent for nerve pain as well, while Skullcap (Scutteleria) is often used for reducing head-related pains.

The grand-daddy of pain reducing botanicals is, of course, Arnica montana (leopard’s bane), to be used topically only on unbroken skin in full strength. As an herb, it is slightly toxic to ingest, so use internally only in its homeopathic form.

Resources:

Herbal tinctures: Herbs of Light, Gaia, Herb Pharm

Homeopathic medicines: Standard/Hylands, Boiron,

King Bio, Washington Homeopathics, Newton Labs

Silver hydrosol and gel: Natural Immunogenics

Sovereign Silver

Ocean plasma: Quinton

Ancient sea bed mineral salts:

Real Salt, Himalayan salt

Sea vegetation: FarmaSea Super Sea Veg

Vegetal silica: Alta Health Products

Robert Scott Bell is a homeopathic practitioner with a passion for health and healing unmatched by anybody in media. Each week Robert Scott Bell hosts the fastest two hours of healing information on radio, dealing with everyday health issues from the perspective of alternative/holistic health care. Empowering his listeners with healing principles that can aid in physical, emotional, mental, spiritual, economic, and yes even political healing! The concept of nullification is a cornerstone of Robert’s radio show where he reveals ways in which you can restore health without government interference. Learn more at http://www.robertscottbell.com/.

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How to Build an Earthbag Survival Shelter

by Owen Geiger

Earthbag building has its origin in military sand bag building. For about 250 years, militaries have been building blast and bulletproof structures out of sand bags. Also, sand bags have been used for many years for flood control. Today, builders are using the same basic process of filling and stacking bags to build a wide variety of structures the world over - unique homes, offices, shops, schools and more. They’re flood resistant, earthquake resistant (passed two ICBO shake table tests), bullet and blast resistant, and now engineer and code approved plans are available.

A big reason for the growing popularity of earthbag building is its low cost. You can build small domes or shelters for under $1,000. For $1,000-$5,000 you could have a nice, small home that would likely outlast most conventional wood-framed houses, and be quieter and more comfortable. Our 18’ exterior diameter roundhouse, for instance, cost about $2,000. Because of the similarity with the survival shelter, I highly suggest reading my free article How to Build an Earthbag Roundhouse. (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-an-Earthbag-Roundhouse)

Specialized techniques have been developed to make earthbag building much stronger than just stacking bags at random. Sand bags usually contain sand or loose, dry soil. But earthbag building typically uses a mix of slightly moist clay and aggregates that bind together and become extremely strong and durable when tamped solid. This is comparable to compressed earth or rammed earth that can last thousands of years.

In addition, earthbag structures usually have barbed wire between courses and a reinforced concrete bond beam at the top of walls. Additional steps are used in seismic regions, including placing plaster mesh on both sides of walls, rebar pins in key locations, buttressing, and so on as conditions require.

When I designed this survival shelter, I had four key concepts in mind: practicality, simplicity, safety and cost. Each concept is discussed in more detail below.

Practicality

Round structures enclose more space for a given amount of materials. There are no dead corners or wasted space. Round earthbag structures are the easiest shape to build. Poly tubes (the easiest and fastest method) or poly bags (lower cost if recycled and suitable for someone working alone) are easily shaped into curved or round shapes.

Simplicity

Another main advantage is simplicity of construction. What could be simpler than filling and stacking bags of earth? Almost everything you need to know is freely available on the Internet. The main skills can be learned in a few minutes simply by being shown or watching a video. My Natural Houses YouTube Channel shows all steps of construction. And most people already have the basic tools around the house - shovels, buckets, garden hose, ladder. The other few tools required can be easily made or purchased inexpensively.

Safety

Round structures are inherently stronger than rectilinear structures. This means the enormous forces of soil against walls below grade (many tons of pressure) will be transferred around the structure. This concept is often stated; “round is sound.”

However, you always want to take precautions during construction when digging below grade to prevent collapse. Dry soil can collapse. Also, a heavy rain can cause a sudden cave-in. It’s best to angle or step the sides so the top is wider than the bottom. The exact angle will depend on your type of soil. Sandy or loose soil is more unstable than clayey soil and requires extra care. Loose soil that’s prone to collapse will need shoring with plywood and stakes or additional excavation to create a lower angle. You could also temporarily reinforce sloped or angled sides with earthbags, although this would add to the cost and labor.

The other hazard is soil on the roof. Two feet of soil – the maximum recommended amount -- is very heavy, and so you’ll want to use strong wood that’s been carefully selected and is free of rot, insect damage and other defects. In addition, follow the guidelines below to ensure the wood stays dry to prevent rot.

Cost

Earthbag building is one of the lowest cost building systems in the world. Earth is probably the least expensive building material (literally dirt-cheap). Excavated soil can typically be used to fill bags. Most subsoils – the soil below the fertile topsoil – work fine. Test your soil by making a test bag. It should dry nearly rock hard. You may have to add some sand if the soil is too clayey or add some clay if the soil is too sandy. Exact proportions are not required, but you want enough clay to bind the aggregates into a solid mass.

Another cost cutting measure is using recycled bags from farmers. Make sure they’ve been stored out of sunlight. Test at least one bag to be sure they’re still strong. You can also buy misprinted bags from suppliers to save money. Using locally available wood, tamped earth floor and earthen plaster will further reduce costs and minimize shipping of materials. No plaster is needed on the outside of the shelter, only one or two layers of 6 mil plastic sheeting to protect walls from moisture.

Survival Shelter specifications: 20’ interior diameter (314 sq. ft. interior plus pantry), Footprint: 23’ x 31’

Description: This round earthbag shelter for up to 4-5 individuals is designed for survival through disaster, plague, etc. It is low cost, durable and practical. This shelter is designed for DIYers on a tight budget who will do most everything by hand. Instructions include numerous key details not evident on the plan: venting, roof framing, how to reduce excavation by 50%, drainage, water supply, etc. I have not seen a better, more practical survival shelter plan.

Things you will need:

Shovel

Bucket

Garden hose

Wheelbarrow

Gravel

Soil

Earthbags (sand bags)

Barbed wire

Wire cutters

Level

Most earthbag projects use 18” wide x 30” long bags when measured empty. Misprinted bags and recycled bags from farmers and feed stores are often available at reduced prices. You can also use poly tubes if you have 1-2 helpers. In addition, you’ll need a tamper to compact the bags and a slider to help place bags on top of barbed wire. Tampers are sold at large building supply centers, or you can make one yourself using the free plans on our website (http://earthbagbuilding.wordpress.com) A slider looks similar to a cookie sheet, but with a larger grip on one end. Again, free plans are on our website.

Summary of Building Process

Here are the basic building steps. In addition, be sure to read my detailed Step-by-Step Earthbag Building article at Instructables.com. This is the best article for learning the basic steps of earthbag building.

1. The first step is to prepare the building site. You want a level space clear of roots, rocks and other obstacles, and with enough space to work and pile materials. Remove and store topsoil for landscaping. Mark where the building will go with temporary stakes and then stockpile mounds of gravel and earth (and insulation if you’re building in extremely cold climates). For instance, you could put 1-2’ of scoria around the outside of the shelter to enhance energy efficiency. You may not need any soil if your soil is suitable. Distribute the piles evenly to minimize labor. Now you’re ready to stake out the building location. Check for plumb, square and level. Use a center stake and trace a circle in the earth using a length of twine. Locate where the plumbing will go and bury all plumbing lines before proceeding. The most laborious step is digging, so think hard about hiring a backhoe to speed the project along.

2. The easiest, least expensive foundation is a rubble trench. Expensive reinforced concrete foundations aren’t needed. You can save thousands of dollars on this step alone. Dig a trench slightly wider than the earthbag wall. Dig the trench about 18”-24” deep and add gravel, rocks or broken concrete to about 6” of grade. You want at least one course of bags below grade. In most climates, it’s best to add a French drain run to daylight or a ‘dry well’ to remove excess water.

Once the rubble trench is leveled, you’re ready to place the first course of bags. It’s recommended to double-bag the first few courses of gravel for added strength and peace of mind. Gravel prevents moisture from wicking up into upper courses. In cold climates you can use lava rock or pumice to create an insulated foundation.

3. Fill the bags about ¾ full and fold the end underneath. If money is tight, you can stitch the ends closed and save on bags. A ‘bucket chute’ (plastic bucket with the bottom cut out) acts like a funnel. It holds the bag open and makes it easier to fill. Tamp the bags flat after each row is complete. Add one or two strands of 4-point barbed wire between each course to prevent bag slippage. Bricks or rocks are helpful for keeping the wire in place. Use the slider starting on the second course. The slider allows you to position the bag above the barbed wire. When the bag is aligned, hold it in place and pull the slider out with a quick motion. Add courses until you’re at least 6” above the risk of moisture getting in the walls. Keep walls vertical by checking with a level. The center stake is used to verify roundness starting out. Later, use the center pole to guide the roundness. Slide the twine or stringline up the pole as you build the wall. It is best to keep earthbag walls protected from sunlight with tarps until plastered. UV damage is not much of an issue if you complete the structure within 6-8 weeks or so.

4. Set the center pole approximately 2’ deep. A rot resistant hardwood is recommended. Put several trash bags around the bottom of pole before burying. A large stone under the pole will add strength. Plumb and brace in position.

5. Now you’re ready to start building walls with soil-filled bags. Most subsoils are adequate and can be obtained from the site. Or you can have road base, reject fines or fill dirt delivered by the truckload and save many hours of hard labor. The best mix is about 25% clayey soil and 75% sandy soil. Stack the bags end to end with the folded end against the previous bag to prevent spillage. Tamp solid once each course is complete. Check each course for level. Adding the same quantity to each bag (example: 4 buckets of soil) helps maintain level. Repeat the above process for each course.

6. Set the two timber beams down the center, overlapping on the center pole with half lap joints. Pin through the joint with rebar into the center pole. Pin the ends that rest on the earthbag wall with rebar to prevent slippage.

7. Pour a steel reinforced concrete bond beam along the top of the wall. The top of the bond beam is equal to the top of the timber beam. Build the form with one or two layers of ¼” plywood. Pound vertical rebar into every bag and connect this to two pieces of ½” horizontal rebar that’s raised about 1” above the bags. Make the bond beam in one continuous pour so there are no cold joints. Extra help on this step will be a big help.

8. Set timber roof joists perpendicular to the timber beam. Pin in place with rebar at both ends. Level the top of joists in one plane the best you can with a chain saw, being careful not to remove too much wood.

9. Frame the hatch and install 2x4 decking. Tongue and groove is preferred but not essential.

10. Cover the roof with EPDM rubber membrane or two layers of 6 mil plastic sheeting. Protect with old carpet or cardboard to prevent tears when backfilling. EPDM is much more durable, but it’s very expensive and very heavy. Two layers of 6 mil poly are adequate on the sides. Restore the natural vegetation around the shelter as much as possible to camouflage the site. Shrubs around the entry hatch will conceal its location.

11. At this point you can plaster the walls on the inside. In most cases plaster mesh isn’t required. Earthen plaster is recommended because it’s low cost and simple to apply.

Conclusion

Virtually everything you need to build with earthbags is contained in my new book Earthbag Building Guide: Vertical Walls Step-by-Step. It’s a how-to builder’s guide with detailed instructions and about 175 color photos and drawings. In addition, we answer questions about earthbag building on our blog. Please use the search function before submitting questions, because most questions have already been answered.

Dr. Owen Geiger, Ph.D. is the former Director of Builders Without Borders and Founder and Director of the Geiger Research Institute of Sustainable Building (www.GRISB.org). He is an author, engineer and licensed contractor specializing in strawbale construction, earthbag and other types of sustainable building. He co-authored the Builders Without Borders Straw-Bale Construction Guides and contributed to Building Without Borders: Sustainable Construction for the Global Village.

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Home Distilling - The Spirit(s) of Self-Reliance

by John Burks

“Once, during Prohibition, I was forced to live for days on nothing but food and water.”

- W.C. Fields

Mankind has been fermenting sugars into alcohol in the form of beer as far back as there are records - and probably longer. Beer was a contributing factor to both the birth and growth of civilizations the world over. Those crafty Greeks, however, were the first to condense the alcohol through distillation, producing the earliest forms of what we know today as “spirits”. Many of the Founding Fathers of the United States produced their own spirits and George Washington had a thriving whiskey business. Whiskey was even considered currency in the wild, unsettled frontier regions of our growing country.

The most obvious use for distilled spirits, in a post SHTF type scenario, is for trade. Studies have shown that even in bad economic times, alcohol sales remain stable and occasionally even rise. And no matter how well you are prepared, there will invariably be something you need to trade for.

Besides trade, the commodity has infinite uses. From the obvious “self-medication” uses (stress and/or pain relief), to legitimate medicinal purposes such as the sterilization of wounds and instruments, two more “industrial” uses as a solvent or as a fuel product. The still itself can also be used for the distillation of water when there are contaminants present that can’t be eliminated through boiling, filtration or chemical additives.

The skill of building a still and producing the commodity is, in itself, a valuable resource. Imagine the scene in Jerry Pournelle and Larry Niven’s Lucifer’s Hammer, where they are interviewing refugees for useful skills before letting them into the camp. The guy holding up his hand, knowing how to produce ethanol, is guaranteed to get in. Right along with the doctors and nurses.

The first thing a potential home distiller needs to know is; right up to the point that the SHTF, home distilling is absolutely illegal in the United States and there are currently no major movements trying to change that. Home brewing and wine making are legal - within limits - but there are no ifs, ands, or buts about the legality of distilling.

Don’t be fooled by the reasoning for this prohibition. Distilling, (contrary to what the government says), can be done in a perfectly safe manner and produce a perfectly safe product. What the government doesn’t get from home distilling - and the main reason why it’s illegal for you to do as the Founding Fathers did - is tax revenue.

The next three things you need to know are; copper, glass, and stainless steel. Nothing else should touch your product at any stage. Alcohol will leach pure grade nastiness from plastic.  Those building stills from PVC pipe for anything other than non-consumable fuel purposes should go ahead and skip the slow pain and find an easier way to commit suicide. The only exception to this is the use of food-grade plastic in siphon and drain tubes.

Home distilling consists of two basic phases: (1) creation and fermentation of your ingredient mix, (known as a mash) and (2) distilling of your mash.  For the purposes of this article we’ll stick with five gallon mashes because they are easy to transport by hand and the equipment needed to create and ferment them is readily available, both online and in home brewing stores.

You will need a six gallon carboy, (which is just a fancy name for a glass jar), and an air lock to ferment the mash. You’ll also need a ten-gallon stainless steel pot, which will serve as the base of the still and be used to make the mash.

Mashes are made from a wide variety of ingredients. Vodka from potatoes, whiskey from corn and rye, brandy from fruit wines, rum from sugar cane… the varieties of recipes for alcohol, are as diverse as they are for food. For the purposes of this short article, we’ll keep it simple and cheap. The basic ingredient in any mash is sugar, so we’ll use that. For a five-gallon mash, warm two gallons of water in your all-purpose ten-gallon stainless steel pot and add ten pounds of sugar. You don’t have to boil the water, just heat it enough to dissolve the sugar completely.

Next, pour that mix into the six-gallon carboy. Fill with clean water to the five-gallon mark. Add one cup of plain old baker’s yeast and pop in the air lock. In the span of about five minutes you’ve made your very first mash!

Transfer the carboy to a cool spot out of direct sunlight. Fermentation for this easy recipe works best between 70° and 76°F. A few hours after you’ve added the yeast, you’ll notice a 1-2 inch thick layer atop the mixture and the air lock will commence to bubbling. After a few days the mixture will appear milky white and after a couple of weeks - once the air lock has stopped bubbling - the mixture will be translucent with a golden shade. Barring the use of a hydrometer to test gravity, this lack of activity from the airlock is the best indication that the fermentation has completed. The entire process usually takes about a month to complete.

The second part of the overall process - distilling the mash - is the physical separation and condensation of the liquid gold from the fermented mix. Many will make this process seem somehow mystical - or worse – overly scientific and nerdy. While the process is scientific, the most science you’ll need to know is that ethanol boils at a different temperature than water and other fusel oils. That’s it.

That first month of fermentation is important because it gives you time to get your still together. Stills can be as complicated as women, and also much like women, they can be veritable works of art. But for our purposes, simpler is better. You can obtain a basic still from online auction sites fairly easily, but since you already have the basis of a pot still, namely that ten-gallon stainless steel pot, why bother? For just a few dollars more in copper and solder you can produce a perfectly acceptable pot still - the most common and basic of the wide variety of stills out there.

The pot still consists of four parts:

The boil tank (which is what that handy steel pot will be used for), a column packed with some sort of filter material, a way to cool the escaping gas back into a liquid, and a heat source.

The column for this project is two and a half feet tall and a 1 7/8” in diameter, secured through the lid of the pot. The lid is held in place with clips or clamps. The column is packed with glass marbles secured at the bottom with window screen or a copper scrubber that’s been cut and packed into the pipe. At the top of the column is a tee, that faces rear to front. The front of the tee is for a cork with a thermometer and the back is a ninety-degree elbow that reduces to a 3/8” copper line. That copper line comes off the still at a 45 degree angle and is enclosed in another, larger pipe with two tees that makes up the cooling area - or as it’s known in this process, a “water jacket”. Cool water is pumped in with an aquarium pump through the bottom tee of the cooling jacket and flows around the 3/8” inner pipe (cooling the gaseous contents to a liquid) and then back out the top tee.

Many pot stills forgo the water jacket and have spiral copper pipe that eventually cools the gas back to a liquid. The water jacket, however, helps make the process more efficient and quicker.

Once your airlock has stopped bubbling and your mash is ready, add all of it to the pot and attach the lid that has your column and water jacket extending upwards. Bring the mixture to a boil and watch the thermometer at the top of the column. The liquid will boil long before you ever see the temperature of the gas rise, but at about 120º F you need to start turning your fire down. Ethanol will begin to drip from the water jacket at around 170º F and from there you want the fire low enough where the gas temperature is still climbing, but climbing as slowly as possible. You will produce product from around 170º F to 204º F. The entire distillation process, on this particular still, can take up to ten hours, and will produce about a gallon of pure ethanol.  Please remember to never leave your still unattended. You are creating a flammable gas over a heat source and, well, the two don’t always mix together so well.

If you’re using the product for medicinal purposes or fuel, you’re done. If you wish to consume it, you can cut it with fifty percent water and have very drinkable moonshine. (I like mine with Big Red). Store it in glass containers with charred wood in it and in another few weeks you’ll have a very passable whiskey. There are also many ready-made flavorings to add to a neutral liquor to make them appear and taste like rum, scotch, or whiskey. You can also store it with oranges, watermelon, pears, or most other fruits to give it a fruity taste.

For more information, please visit the Home Distillers forum, or for a very good beginner’s book, find yourself a copy of The Alaskan Bootlegger’s Bible by Leon K. Kania.

John Burks is a freelance writer and an avid home-brewer. He was raised by his grandparents, who had lived through the Great Depression and learned from an early age the importance of living a minimalist lifestyle and being prepared for bad times.  He is also a fourth-generation oil-field worker living between Oklahoma City, OK and Houston, TX.

Disclaimer: This article is intended for educational purposes only.  Neither the writer nor the publisher encourage violating local, state or federal law and assumes no responsibility for the use or mis-use of this information in committing illegal acts… Unless the government collapses, then by all means, Survive and Thrive!

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Collapse Medicine:

A Stitch In Time – How to Suture Wounds - Part One

by Joseph Alton, M.D. (aka Dr. Bones)

In a collapse situation, we will all be performing tasks that are not part of our daily routine. Few of us are required to chop wood for fuel at present, for example, but it might be standard operating procedure if things go south. Performing strenuous work that we’re unaccustomed to could easily lead to injury. We’re also going to expose ourselves to risk of injury in other ways, just by being out in the wild.

A sharp injury is known as a laceration. When we receive a cut, our body’s natural armor (our skin) is breached and bacteria get a free ride to the rest of our body. Once there, our health is in real danger. Therefore, it only makes common sense that we want to close that breach.

I am asked to teach suturing more than any other first aid procedure, even though it really isn’t FIRST aid at all. Suturing is best done by someone with experience, and you don’t get that kind of experience in your typical first responder course. Survival medical training teaches you to stabilize and transfer the patient to modern facilities. But what if there is no modern care available, as in a collapse? What if YOU are the end of the line when it comes to medical care? You’ll need to obtain the knowledge to be able to function effectively, and that means knowing how to close a wound. Source: weheartit.com

Ancient bone needles

Human skin has probably been sutured since we learned to make needles from bone 30,000 years ago. If you could sew animal skins together, why not human skin? The first documentation of suturing was from the Egyptians 5,000 years ago, and actual stitches have been found in mummies more than 3,000 years old. The Greeks and Romans, as well as various native cultures, also worked with sutures. Using needles of bone, ivory and copper, they would use various natural materials such as hemp, flax, cotton, silk, hair and animal sinew to put wounds together. The classical era physician Galen, in the 2nd century A.D., was well known for stitching together the severed tendons and ligaments of gladiators, sometimes restoring function to a damaged extremity. He was one of the first to distinguish between a “clean” and a “dirty” wound.

In primitive cultures, ingenious ways were developed to close wounds. In some tropical rain forests, the natives would collect army ant soldiers whenever there was a wound to close. They would place the jaws of the ant on the skin, the ant would bite the skin closed, and then they would twist its body off! The head stayed on, with the jaws shut and the skin closed. Native Americans would pull off agave cactus needles along with a strip of the plant material attached, and use that as suture.

Suture technology didn’t really advance much until the late 19th century, when the concept of sterilization of needles and suture material came into fashion. By this time, suture material was either “chromic catgut”, actually made from the intestinal lining of sheep and cows, or silk. Both of these materials are still available today in one form or another.

Suture “string” is either absorbable or non-absorbable. “Catgut”, for example, will dissolve in the body over the course of several weeks, and is used for internal body work. Silk is non-absorbable, and is used on the skin or anywhere that you are willing to have the suture material stay forever. Around 1930, synthetic materials made their debut in the form of nylon and polypropylene (Prolene), non-absorbables that are also available to this day and are, essentially, like fishing line. Since that time, various different manufactured types of suture material have reached the market, both absorbable (the popular Vicryl) and non-absorbable.

Needles have progressed, also. Needles can be straight, curved, or various other shapes. Originally, needles were “eyed” and separate from the string. You threaded the needle and began your stitching, which caused two lengths of suture to go through the wound. This process caused some trauma to the tissues sutured, and so this type of needle is called a “traumatic” needle.

In 1920, a process called “swaging” was developed, which allowed the back end of the needle to be attached to the string. As the diameter of the string was slightly thinner than the needle and only one single length of suture was passed through the tissue, this type of needle was named “atraumatic”. Some swaged needles are built to “pop-off” with a quick tug after placing each stitch. This may be handy, but it is incredibly wasteful of suture material; therefore, I can only discourage its use in a collapse situation.

Needles are also categorized based on the point. The two most common needle points are “tapered” and “cutting”, although there are various others. One is round and “tapers” smoothly to a point, like a sharpened pencil does. “Cutting” needles are triangular and have a sharp “cutting” edge on the inside curve of the needle.

Now that we are acquainted with sutures, we must ask ourselves the following question: What am I trying to accomplish by stitching this wound closed? Your goals are simple. You close wounds to repair the defect in your body’s armor, to eliminate “dead space” layers, and to promote healing. A well-approximated wound also has less scarring. However, here is where it gets complicated. Closing a wound that should be left open can do a lot more harm than good, and could possibly put your patient’s life at risk! You will have to consider several factors before you proceed to suture a wound.

The most important consideration is whether you are dealing with a clean or a dirty wound. Most wounds you will encounter in a wilderness or collapse setting will be dirty. If you try to close a dirty wound, you have sequestered bacteria and dirt into your body. Within a short period of time, the wound will become red, swollen, and hot. An abscess may form, and pus will accumulate inside. The infection may spread to your bloodstream, and when it does, you have caused a life-threatening situation. Leaving the wound open will allow you to clean the inside frequently and observe the healing process. It also allows inflammatory fluid to drain out of the body. Wounds that are left open heal by granulation; that is, from the inside out. The scar isn’t as pretty, but it’s the safest option in most cases.

Other considerations when deciding whether or not to close a wound are whether it is a simple laceration (straight thin cut on the skin) or whether it is an avulsion (areas of skin torn out, hanging flaps). If the edges of the skin are so far apart that they cannot be stitched together without tearing from the pressure, leave it open. If the wound has been open for more than 8 hours, leave it open, as bacteria has already had a good chance to colonize.

If you’re certain the wound is clean, you should close it if it is long, deep or gapes open loosely. Remember that you should close deep wounds in layers, to prevent any un-approximated dead space from occurring. Dead air in the wound may lead to a major infection. Also, cuts over moving parts, such as the knee joint, will be more likely to require stitches.

Many injuries that require closure also should be treated with antibiotics to decrease the chance of infection. Natural remedies such as garlic or honey may be useful in a collapse situation. Deep layer sutures are never removed, so try to use absorbable material such as “catgut” or Vicryl. Silk, Nylon or Prolene sutures on the skin should be removed in 7-10 days; if over a joint, 2 weeks or more.

Don’t forget that there is more than one way to stitch a cat!

There are several methods available to close a laceration. The simplest and least invasive is to use Steri-Strips and butterfly closures. They are sterile strips which adhere on each side of the wound to pull it together. They don’t require puncturing the skin and will fall off on their own, in time.

The second least invasive method is Cyanoacrylate, special “glue” sold as Derma-Bond or Liquiseal. This is medical-grade adhesive that is made specifically for use on the skin. Simply approximate the skin and run a thin line of glue down the laceration. It will naturally peel off as the skin heals. Some have recommended (the much less expensive) household “Super-Glue” for wound closure. This preparation is slightly different, chemically, and is not made for use on the skin. It may cause skin irritation in some, and burn-like reactions have been reported.

Another closure method is the use of skin staples. They work by “pinching” the skin together (similar to the ancient army ant method) and should be removed in about 7 days. These are best removed with a specific instrument known as a staple remover.

Sutures are your most invasive method of wound or laceration closure, and the one that requires the most skill. Before you choose to close a wound by suturing, make sure you ask yourself why you can’t use a less invasive method instead. I know, after watching Rambo and Dave Canterbury do it on themselves, you’re ready to try it, too (maybe not on yourself). It’s also important to remember, however, to keep it simple. Use the other methods first, and save your precious suture supplies for those special cases that really need them. In a collapse situation, it’s unlikely you’ll ever be able to replenish that item.

Next issue, I will be conducting a photo lab on how to suture a laceration closed. I will tell you about all the equipment necessary and go through the steps. We’ll also explore some appropriate practice surfaces to work on. Until then, remember, knowledge is power!

Dr. Bones is a retired physician, surgeon and obstetrician with 25 years experience in patient care. Along with his wife, “Nurse Amy” Alton, he co-hosts the “Doom & Bloom Show". Their goal is to promote medical preparedness, and to identify strategies that will keep people healthy in a post-apocalyptic setting

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What I Have Learned About Greens and Wild Edibles

by Sergei Boutenko

It’s hard to know where to begin. How can I possibly summarize everything I’ve learned about health over the last 17 years in only 2,000 words? Over the last two decades, I have reversed my childhood health problems, been a hardcore vegan, lived solely on orange juice for months at a time, watched people recover from irreversible, degenerative diseases, and met many of the world’s renowned health guru’s. My lifestyle has led me to conclude that health is something that has to be fought for every moment of everyday. This fight consists of many puzzle pieces such as diet, exercise, and adequate sleep. I do not claim to know all of the pieces, but I do know there are many. In this article I would like to focus on one aspect of health; diet. Specifically how green leafy vegetables and wild edibles can positively influence ones health and wellbeing. I would like to break this subject down first by elaborating on the three major reasons why greens are so healthy, then I will discuss the benefits of wild edibles, as well as, how to easily incorporate more greens into your diet.

Three Major Benefits of Greens: Fiber, Chlorophyll, and Protein

The main purpose for consuming fiber is elimination. Our bodies are constantly struggling to filter the fuel we put in them. Just as a fuel filter in a car strains away unnecessary particles of gasoline that will eventually clog the car’s engine, our body strains away matter that is useless and can create a blockage. Because it would be dangerous to save and store pollutants such as pesticides, chemicals, toxins, and dead cell matter, our bodies do everything in their power to eliminate that which does not benefit them and thereby insure smooth running.

Fiber plays an important role in this elimination process. According to Myron Winick, author of the Fiber Prescription, under a microscope the molecule of fiber looks like a sponge. It is porous and absorbent and has the ability to soak up what the body does not need. By binding all the toxic matter into one package and sending it out through the bowels, our bodies manage to purify their systems, remain healthy, and function properly without disease.

How much fiber do we need? According to the United States Department of Agriculture each person should be getting between 26-31 grams of fiber per day. The average American consumes 15 grams or less per day. This is not surprising considering that the Standard American diet consists mainly of high fat and low fiber foods. On the other hand, one cup of collard greens contains almost 6 grams of fiber. If you were to start your day with a smoothie made from four cups of collards (approximately one bunch) and seasonal fruit, you could meet your daily fiber requirement before your day even began.

More fiber perks:

Balances pH level and maintains homeostasis

Promotes weight loss

Slows down absorption of sugar

Decreases chances of diabetes and helps already diagnosed cases

Reduces risk of cancer

Reduces cholesterol

Keeps bowels working properly

Prevents hemorrhoids and ulcers

Strengthens the heart

Green leafy vegetables are an excellent source of fiber! Eating green salads, drinking green smoothies, and incorporating more greens into your recipes will guarantee an adequate fiber consumption and will allow you to reap all of the health benefits listed above.

The miracles of chlorophyll

Chlorophyll is the green pigment in plants that harnesses the sun’s energy in photosynthesis. When you see a piece of green kale, you are looking at chlorophyll. Chlorophyll is to plants what blood is to humans. Once a plant produces energy from sunlight, it then uses it to nourish itself by circulating essential vitamins and minerals through its veins. When you eat a leaf of Swiss chard, or sprinkle fresh parsley onto your salad, you are receiving energy straight from the sun. Your body uses chlorophyll for cleansing and healing organs, battling pathogenic bacteria, and supplying oxygen to where it is needed. As a general rule, the darker the green leaf, the more chlorophyll it contains and thus, the more health benefits are locked inside.

Here are a few more advantages of eating chlorophyll rich foods:

Increases red blood cell count

Prevents cancer

Alkalizes the body’s pH

Boosts immune system

Improves vision

Reduces inflammation

Counteracts toxins, pesticides, herbicides, and other pollutants

Protein

Often when I am asked whether or not I get enough protein from my diet, I become aware that the person inquiring is confused about what protein is. T. Colin Campbell, author of the acclaimed book The China Study writes:

“There are hundreds of thousands of different kinds of proteins. These proteins are constructed as long chains of hundreds or thousands of amino acids, of which there are fifteen to twenty different kinds.”

These proteins are found in everything from beef to apples and are extremely important to consume. Of the fifteen to twenty different kinds of amino acids that exist, there are nine that our body cannot synthesize. These amino acids are known as essential amino acids and are what people refer to when they talk about protein. Because proteins wear out on a regular basis and must be replaced, we need to receive these nine essential amino acids from our food regularly to remain healthy and balanced.

What then is the best source of protein? Is it meat, beans, or soy products? One of the biggest misconceptions circulating around protein is that all of our essential amino acids must come from one source. For this reason many people look at animal products as the one and only viable protein source. This is a rather inaccurate outlook because while all of the essential amino acids may be present in the meat we consume for dinner, they are not arranged in the correct order for humans to digest. Our bodies have to pull each amino acid from the foreign chain and create a new one that fits our needs. This process is very cumbersome and stressful. On the other hand, eating a baby green salad offers these same essential amino acids to our bodies in a manner that easily accessible. T. Colin Campbell writes:

“Animal foods are considered to be high quality proteins while plant foods are low quality, the greatest efficiency does not equal greatest health. There is much compelling research indicating that plant proteins, which allow for slow and steady synthesis of new proteins, are the healthiest types of proteins.”

Green leafy vegetables contain the largest amount of protein out of all plant foods. By eating a diet rich in greens, our bodies can continue performing such tasks as repairing tissues, building muscle and bones, and aiding in the creation of enzymes and hormones.

Wild Edibles

Now that you know a thing or two about greens, can you think of anything better? How about FREE greens—wild edibles? Wild edibles add even more incentives to consume greens on a regular basis.

Here are a few reasons to eat edible weeds:

Weeds have longer roots and can absorb more minerals from soil

Allow us the opportunity to eat locally and more sustainable

Offer more diversity in our food

Are genetically stronger plants

Are a great backup plan for any survival situation

Are completely free

Unfortunately, within a few generations, we have forgotten how to identify edible plants thus, we have a hard time benefitting from them. Furthermore, modern culture scares us away from attempting to harvest wild edibles, claiming that it’s dangerous and stupid to eat non store-bought food. While I agree that caution, common sense, and some prior knowledge is required to avoid mishap, eating wild foods is not nearly as dangerous as it is portrayed in Hollywood. Picking weeds is not a new fad adopted by hippies, it has been practiced for thousands of years. You don’t need a degree in botany from an Ivy League school to learn to identify a few basic edibles and start living more sustainably! The bottom line is that edible weeds are readily available and excellent ingredients in the recipe of health. In this age of information it is easier than ever to safely educate yourself about wild edibles. Here are a few tips for newbie’s:

Knowledge is power!

The best way to stay safe is through good old-fashion education! The Internet is an invaluable tool for this. Do an internet search for wild edible classes in your area and sign up! I recommend the hands-on method because it enables information to stay with you longer. For example, during one edible foods workshop, I was taught that taking a few minutes to study each wild edible would help me remember it forever. I sat down with a dandelion and began to notice how many leaves it had, what shape the leaves were, if it had any specific markings or discolorations, etc. After this exercise, I will never have any doubts about what a dandelion looks like!

Other Educational Tools

Another way to educate yourself about wild edibles is to purchase a good book on the subject. When purchasing a book make sure that it has clear color pictures of the plants. It is also wise to consider book size as you may not want to carry heavy books with you on outings. You can also purchase a handy app, which you can download onto your phone, iPod, or tablet for a quick and easy reference on the go.

Additional Recommendations

Start small. By nature, we humans love to go overboard with things that are good for us. While many common edibles are great for your health they will be foreign to you the first time you taste them. I recommend that you approach new food cautiously (start by eating small amounts) until you know that you will not have any adverse effects. Once you have confirmed that the food you are consuming makes you feel good, then have at it!

Don’t mix your weeds! If you mix 15 wild edibles into a salad and then have an allergic reaction, it will be very hard to determine which plant caused it. So, do your self a favor and simplify. Eat one wild edible at a time until you are absolutely sure it’s safe for you to consume.

Green Smoothies

Finally, as promised, I will share with you my favorite way to sneak greens into my diet. Make a green smoothie! It’s that simple! Because fruits tend to be sweeter and more delicious than greens, we tend to eat more of them and neglect their healthy relatives. You can trick your taste buds into liking greens by blending fresh fruit and greens in a blender and making a smoothie. The result is a fragrant and tasty smoothie with little to no chlorophyll taste and all of the benefits!

Recipes:

Peach-Spinach Smoothie

4 peaches

2 handfuls of spinach leaves

1 banana

1 cup of water

Banan-delion-mango

2 mangos

1 handful fresh dandelion leaves

1 banana

½ lemon juiced

11/2 cups of water

Pear-kale-mint

2 ripe pears

1-2 handfuls of kale

½ bunch of mint

1 banana

1-2 cups water

Greens and Green Smoothie Resources:

Green for Life by Victoria Boutenko

Green Smoothie Revolution by Victoria Boutenko

Green Smoothies App for iPhone, iPod, & iPad available through iTunes

www.GreenSmoothiesBlog.com

Wild Edible Resources: Fresh the Ultimate Live food Cookbook by Sergei and Valya Boutenko, Wild Edible App by Sergei Boutenko available from iTune for iPhone, iPod & iPad.

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Surviving An EMP:

(aka: Electro Magnetic Pulse

by Mat Stein

Lately there has been a lot of hype about EMP (electromagnetic pulse)—some of it quite justifiable, and some of it overblown. In this article I will try to sort the facts from the fiction to give you a clearer understanding of the probable effects from a nuclear device generated EMP, as well as its cousin—a solar super storm.

What is generally referred to as an EMP is a detonation of a nuclear device at high altitude, roughly defined as somewhere between 24 and 240 miles above the surface of the earth. Nuclear detonations of these types have the potential to knock out electronic devices and electrical power grids along their line of sight, covering huge distances, on the order of an area 1500 miles in diameter, which would correspond to a circular area stretching roughly from Quebec City in Ontario Canada down to Dallas Texas.

Not every electrical device in this area would be fried, but certainly enough would go down that modern life as we know it would cease to exist for a long period of time over a very large area. Imagine if instantaneously the entire central and northeastern portion of the United States were knocked out by a single nuclear airburst. Without directly killing a single person, or blowing up a single building, in just a few moments the New York Stock Exchange, the governing body of the United States, and the giant machine that keeps over one half the population clothed, fed, employed, and entertained would come to a screeching and catastrophic halt, and in the ensuing months, many millions of people could die of disease and starvation!

Similar in many respects to EMP are “solar super storms”, which also have the ability to severely affect electronics and electrical power grids. Their effects tend to be significantly less severe on the local level than an EMP from a nuclear airburst. However, since a super solar storm could conceivably cripple the grid across most of the industrial centers of our world, its overall effect might be far worse than a severe EMP.

What to Expect From an EMP

When a nuclear device is detonated above ground, it generates three different categories of electromagnetic effects, and these are referred to as E1, E2, and E3 effects. The E1 is the direct freely propagating electromagnetic field effect that happens immediately, on the order of less than one nanosecond to a few nanoseconds. The E1 effects are particularly damaging to modern integrated circuits in electronic controls, which form critical elements in every aspect of our modern world’s infrastructure. The E1 effects induce high voltage currents in any kind of significant wiring runs that connect various sensing elements in data acquisition and control systems.

The intermediate time EMP effects are categorized as E2 effects. These are similar in frequency to lighting strikes, but their occurrence will be much like many thousands or millions of lightning strikes occurring simultaneously over thousands of square miles. In many cases, the protective circuits designed to protect devices and power distribution systems from lightning damage may well be adequate, but if the rapid E1 effects have damaged the device’s lightning protection, the E2 effects falling immediately on its heels will destroy those devices.

The late time EMP effects are categorized as E3 effects, and may last for a minute or more. E3 pulses are quite similar to the geomagnetic induced currents from solar storms. E3 effects are known to induce huge currents and voltages on long runs of electrical wires and conductors. Geomagnetic storms, such as the one that fried the major HydroQuebec grid transformer, are known to cause major damage to electrical system components at much lower levels than might reasonably be experienced during an E3 EMP event.

The following are some anticipated effects from a nuclear device generated EMP:

Extended grid failure is likely to extend far beyond the region directly affected by the EMP. For example, on August 10, 1996, during a triple digit heat wave, sagging power lines in Oregon shorted against insufficiently trimmed tree limbs, causing a cascading blackout that cut power to 7 western states, parts of Baja Mexico, and parts of two Canadian provinces. The grid had been operating near peak capacity due to massive loads from air conditioning units operating during the heat wave, and the shorted lines threw it over the edge into short term collapse, affecting millions of customers.

Cellular telephone systems are particularly susceptible to EMP and will likely fail immediately due to direct E1 and E3 effects.

Land line telecommunication systems that were not damaged by the initial E1 and E3 effects, will likely fail within 4 to 72 hours as battery backup supplies run down, and generator backup power for central telephone substations run out of fuel reserves.

There will be a brief period, lasting a few hours to a few days, where backup generators that were not damaged by the E1 and E3 effects will still be functional, until they run out of fuel and cease to operate.

Most smaller electrical devices that were not plugged in, or turned on, at the time of the EMP will still be operable, provided they were not connected to long runs of cable such as Ethernet network lines or the local grid.

If the EMP happened during normal waking hours, roughly 10 to 15% of cars and trucks that were on the road at the time of the EMP will stop operating immediately, causing major traffic tie ups. Cars not operating at the time of the EMP will be mostly functional though many will have annoying issues.

Most street lights and traffic signals will be damaged by the E1 and E3 effects, contributing to major traffic problems in metropolitan and suburban areas.

The magnetic data on personal computers, banks, and business systems will probably survive, but microelectronic control circuits in most of the devices that read and write that data (computer hard drives, tape drives, etc), if operating at the time of the EMP, will be damaged or destroyed.

The 1-3 day supply of food in supermarkets will be rapidly depleted due to the destruction of the electronic systems that control today’s highly automated “just in time” delivery systems. Loss of the grid means that food storage refrigerator systems will stop functioning when backup generator fuel runs out in 1-3 days time.

The electronic SCADA “eyes, ears, and voice” systems that would normally diagnose, dispatch and coordinate repairs to the grid and telecommunication systems will be crippled, making it nearly impossible to coordinate repairs to these systems.

The volume of trained manpower capable of manually diagnosing and repairing the complex power grid and telecommunications systems is simply not there, making such a monumental task nearly impossible.

Most older style electromechanical devices, such as relays and mechanical switches, will be unaffected by the EMP.

Older pre-fuel injection vehicles will be less likely to be affected.

Battery powered shortwave “ham radio” communications will probably be down for a few hours due to electromagnetic interference. Unless protected by a “faraday cage” most radios inside the EMP area will probably be damaged by the E1 effects, however some of these systems will probably survive, returning to service after a few hours, until they run out of a source of backup power.

Planning Ahead for EMP or a Solar Super Storm

Planning ahead to survive and thrive after an EMP event or solar super storm, requires longer term strategies, more supplies, and varied self-reliance skills that far exceed those required for surviving most other crises or catastrophes. If you happen to live in a rural area that grows more food than it uses, your chances are much better than if you live in a city. If you are able to produce your own food, or trade and barter goods, skilled services, or manual labor for food and essential items, then you stand a decent chance of surviving this ordeal.

I suggest you start by picking up a copy of The Encyclopedia of Country Living, by Carla Emery, How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It by James Wesley Rawles, When Technology Fails by Matthew Stein, and at least one or two books on wild edible plants native to your area that include clear color photographs of plants at various times of the year. You should also consider stockpiling guns and ammunition for self-defense and hunting purposes.

Protection of Electronic Devices from EMP and Solar Storms

A detailed discussion of the technological strategies for protecting electronic devices from EMP and solar super storms is beyond the scope of this article, but I will give you a few general guidelines. Detailed technical instructions are offered in the Department of the Army Technical Manual TM 5-690, “Grounding and Bonding in Command, Control, Communications, Computer, Intelligence, Surveillance, and Reconnaissance (C4ISR) Facilities”, which may be downloaded for free on the Internet.

Severe solar storms are likely to be devastating to the grid, and subsequently life and society in general, but not harmful to your personal electronics, computers, automobiles, etc., provided you have adequate surge protection on your lines.

EMP simulation tests indicated that most electronic devices that are self-contained and not operating at the time, wired to an antenna, or connected to significant lengths of wires will be unharmed by EMP or solar storms. Complex digital microelectronics, such as personal computers, are quite sensitive to EMP.

Significant lengths of wires, such as network cables, grid connections, telephone lines, and possibly even local wires that connect your renewable energy system components to each other may experience induced currents of high voltage and amperage, that are potentially damaging to solid state circuits and microelectronics.

Wires entering the building should be lightening protected with suitable ground path circuits.

You can protect sensitive electronics (anything with integrated circuits, logic boards, and microelectronics) with homemade “faraday cages”. A faraday cage is simply a continuous metal enclosure that surrounds a device. Do not pierce your faraday cage with any power cords or antennas, or those items will bring induced currents into your device, potentially ruining it. Your faraday cage must be insulated from electrical contact with the device it is meant to protect. You can make a simple faraday cage by first insulating your device with a couple layers of plastic garbage bags, or layers of rolled plastic film, then covering it with a continuous layer of aluminum foil. Tape overlapping sections of foil to itself to form a continuous metal shielding layer. A metal garbage can makes an excellent faraday cage.

“Nested” faraday cages work even better. To make a nested faraday cage, start with a single layer aluminum foil faraday cage and add one or two more layers of foil with an insulating layer of plastic between each layer of foil.

Aluminum window screen material is also good for making faraday cages.

A simple small readymade “faraday cage” for protecting sensitive electrical components is any old microwave oven (cut the power cord off to prevent it from acting as an antenna).

Store plenty of batteries, and a battery operated shortwave radio. Storing a shortwave radio inside a nested faraday cage is probably your best form of insurance to stay connected and informed after an EMP event.

Most magnetic media will probably survive an EMP event, but the key word is “probably”. Optical media, such as CDs and DVDs will certainly survive.

For more specific information on tools and techniques for personal protection from EMP, see the online article, “Getting Prepared for an Electromagnetic Pulse Attack or Severe Solar Storm”, by Jerry Emanuelson, available at http://www.futurescience.com/emp/emp-protection.html.

Coping Strategies

If you are one of the ones with the time and money to prepare a sustainable survival retreat, complete with a renewable energy system, garden, greenhouse, and fully stocked with spare parts (including key electrical components like inverters) and survival supplies, now is the time to head for the hills and retreat to your refuge from the coming storm, provided you can get there before it is occupied by others. However, if you are like the other 99.9% of the population, here are some strategies that you may find helpful:

If you believe that your area may have been subject to a significant EMP or solar super storm, and you live in a metropolitan or suburban area, try to get out of town as soon as possible.

In case you need to ditch your car somewhere down the line, be sure to pack your camping gear, backpacks, and sturdy hiking boots. Don’t forget the moleskin and cloth first aid tape for taping your hot spots before they blister!

If traffic is totally tied up, do not waste precious gasoline idling your car in endless traffic jams. Pull over somewhere and try to get some sleep if possible. In the middle of the night, when most people are sleeping, may be your best chance for “getting out of Dodge” using your automobile.

If you have a ham radio, or a multi-channel scanner, try to get up-to-date information about what is really happening before you decide on exactly where to go and what to do. If it was an EMP event, then your best bet is to head for an area outside of the EMP range, if at all possible.

Remember that when struck by a severe Solar Super Storm, or an EMP, the situation will degrade quickly and significantly with each new day, as backup supplies of fuel for generators begins to dry up, leaving telecommunication, food distribution, water, sewage, and refrigeration systems incapacitated.

Make sure you bring along your grab-and-go kits, key self reliant instruction manuals, illustrated edible plant guide(s), medical supplies, personal self defense and hunting supplies, and whatever food provisions you have room for inside your vehicle.

Realize that America is a heavily armed population. Since every Tom, Dick, and Harry will be out hunting for game, the game will be quite scarce in almost no time at all, so your best bet for maintaining food stocks is if you have good foraging skills and a well illustrated guide to wild edible plants in your area, or a large surplus stock of valuable survival goods to use for trade and barter.

I can assure you that a civilization disrupting solar super storm is guaranteed to happen. Since there have been at least two such events in the past 160 years, it is sure to happen again. Nobody knows when it will happen, but it is just a matter of time. Whether or not a crippling EMP event will ever occur is dependent upon human free will. Most people who analyze these things believe the odds are somewhere in the range of 50-70% that a terrorist organization or rogue state will launch such an attack on the United States, and its effects will be devastating to a large population covering a huge area. At the minimum, this will be on a par with the scope of the area crippled by Hurricane Katrina, and at the other end of the spectrum fomenting the collapse of our entire country.

Mat Stein is is a graduate of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT); where he majored in Mechanical Engineering. He’s the author of the acclaimed book: “When Technology Fails: A Manual for Self-Reliance, Sustainability and Surviving the Long Emergency” (Chelsea Green 2008). He’s also an active mountain climber and serves as a guide trainer for blind skiers with the Ski for Light cross-country program. He can be reached at his website: www.whentechfails.com

Resources:

For more information on EMP and solar storms, you may download the government reports: Severe Space Weather Events: Understanding Societal and Economic Impacts Workshop Report and Report of the Commission to Assess the Threat to the United States from Electromagnetic Pulse (EMP) Attack. and there are numerous articles and web sites online that are devoted to these subjects. One such web site, which is posted by an electrical engineer and includes numerous valuable links, is http://www.futurescience.com/emp.html

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Built To Last

The Top 3 Alternative Building Methods for

Homes That Will Survive

by Corcceigh Green

(See Example Photos at End of Article)

Ever since I was a kid, I’ve always been attracted to “alternative” or unusual methods of construction and design. Back then, it was mostly due to the fact that I was (and still am) a huge science-fiction nerd and thought it would be pretty cool to live in a geodesic dome, or some other structure shaped largely by my imagination. As I got older (and more survival oriented) I came to realize that people don’t build and live in these structures because they look cool (or at least not just because they look cool) they build them because they’re stronger, safer, more energy efficient and cost-effective to build and maintain.

Sometimes it’s amazing to me that we’re still pretty much taking the same wasteful, inefficient approach to home building that we have for the last few centuries. Sure, there have been refinements in the process over the years that have improved efficiency and cut down on waste and cost, but the fact remains that the homes most of us live in still leave a lot to be desired.

It could be that humans are “traditionalists” by nature, and we assume that if something has been done a certain way for a number of years, then that must be the best way to do it. But most “alternative” building methods are not alternative at all. Many are based on time-tested construction techniques from ancient antiquity. It’s easy for us to scoff at that “weirdo” who’s building a dome house or earth-bag home on the outskirts of town, but that weirdo knows something that most people don’t... There is a better way to build (a number of better ways, actually) and from a survivalist’s point of view, the method that is used to build your home could make the difference between remaining safe and dry after a disaster, or becoming a refugee. So I say; let the neighbors scoff... We’ll see who’s laughing after disaster strikes.

The following are my top three picks (in no particular order) of alternative home-building methods that are cheap (and easy) to construct, more energy efficient, and most importantly – are more capable of withstanding severe weather and disasters than traditional wood-framed homes.

Shipping/Cargo Containers

These are the large, steel containers that are used for overseas shipping. The use of cargo containers for home building may seem like a weird idea, but their use has been gaining in popularity in recent years as either a stand-alone home, an addition to an existing home, or as a survival shelter. They’re practically indestructible, and the exteriors are rust resistant, making them perfect for areas that are prone to severe weather, earthquakes, tornadoes and hurricanes.

The typical dimensions of shipping containers are 40’ x 8’ x 8’ (20’ containers are also available) and they can be stacked like Lego blocks - either one on top of the other, or side by side. You’ll need to cut out openings for windows, entryways and ventilation and run wiring and plumbing under a raised floor or within the interior walls (under drywall). You’ll also need to insulate the container, either internally or externally. Some people bury their containers for greater insulation (earth is the perfect thermal mass) as well as concealment.

Homes made from cargo containers don’t have to be crude, dreary, industrial-looking edifices, either. A cursory internet search for shipping container homes will reveal many innovative designs that range from basic, utilitarian, to stylish and imaginative homes that anyone would be proud to live in - such as the container home in the example photo.

It is estimated that at any given time, there are about 700,000 used shipping containers available for purchase at a cost from $1,000 to $2,000. You can contact ship yards to inquire about purchasing used containers. If the prospect of purchasing, transporting and converting a shipping container yourself seems a little too daunting, there are several companies that manufacture pre-fabricated homes out of shipping containers that still beat the cost of building a traditional home.

More information on building shipping container homes or purchasing pre-fabricated homes and additions can be found at the following websites: http://www.shipping-container-housing.com/, http://www.containerhomes.net/, http://www.lot-ek.com/, http://www.quik-build.com/

Earthbag Homes

Back in issue 3, we featured an article by Dr. Owen Geiger on building earthbag survival shelters. This method of construction has been around for thousands of years and is in use all over the world in a broad range of environments. The earthbag method produces an extremely durable structure that is resistant to intense weather, flooding, and earthquakes. They’re also highly bullet and blast resistant, which is why militaries have been using sandbag construction for well over 200 years. Earthbag structures are also very inexpensive and easy to build with only a couple of helpers. No particular construction expertise is required and you can learn everything you need to know by searching the internet and watching a couple of videos.

Construction essentially consists of filling polypropylene sandbags 3/4 full with dirt, sand, gravel, or volcanic material (cinder). Ideally, sub-soil (the clay dirt beneath the topsoil) works best, but you can pretty much use whatever you have on hand. Then, you staple or stitch the bags closed and lay them out in horizontal courses like bricks. Barbed wire is then used as the “mortar” that keeps the earthbag “bricks” in place and attached to each other.

Most earthbag homes are either circular or dome-shaped in design for maximum structural integrity. This also eliminates the need for rafters or roofing materials. Doors and windows can be framed out traditionally, or archways and circular windows can be built in. When the structure is complete, the interior and exterior walls are clad in mud, plaster, or stucco.

To learn more about earthbag construction, you can check out Owen’s article in issue 3 of Survivalist, or visit the Geiger Research Institute of Sustainable Building at: www.GRISB.org and his You Tube channel: naturalhouses. You also might want to check out http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/

Dome Construction

Domes are the most durable structures you can build. Since the days of the ancient Romans, architects and builders have known that arches and domes are capable of supporting an enormous amount of weight - much more so than rectilinear construction – and were widely utilized in massive building projects, from coliseums to cathedrals that are still standing today. Domes are also very energy efficient (proving that the Eskimos knew what they were doing when they came up with the igloo!). Since domes have the smallest surface area for a given volume, there’s less surface area through which thermal energy can be transferred, essentially providing better insulation. In warm weather, hot air is drawn up and vented out of the top of the structure, keeping it cool in the summertime.

When most people think of dome structures, they think of the “geodesic” dome (a dome or sphere comprised of numerous triangular panels) championed by Buckminster Fuller back in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Fuller was inspired by the inherent advantages of domes as well as the added stability provided by the network of triangular planes. And since dome structures do not require any internal bracing or load-bearing supports, dome construction requires 50-75% less materials than traditional wood-framed homes.

Geodesic domes are not without their problems, though. Since there are so many joints and seams, they’re more susceptible to leakage and moisture damage, as well as damage from the sun. Some designs utilize an overlapping system of faces which will ideally protect the joints from the rain, but they still remain vulnerable to expansion and contraction due to climactic changes. This problem can be exacerbated, depending on the materials with which the framework is constructed. Many manufacturers have responded to this problem over the years by taking different approaches to dome building and there are several commercial kits available on the market. Just make sure you do your research before purchasing a dome kit. Some produce structures that I wouldn’t exactly call “disaster proof” (or even permanent), while others are priced beyond the reach of the average consumer, or require specialized skills to construct.

One particular manufacturer that’s worth checking out is; Monolithic (which literally means “one-piece”). Since the 1970s, they’ve been manufacturing domes and dome kits of all sizes (from cabins to sports arenas) that are easy to construct, affordable and extremely durable. Construction of these domes incorporates an “airform” around which the structural elements are added to stiffen the dome. The airform is inflated to establish the dome shape, then polyurethane foam, steel rebar, and a cement-based finish (“Shotcrete”) are applied from the inside. An exterior coating is then applied to complete the structure. These domes have been tested tornado-proof (exceeding FEMA 361 guidelines for tornado protection) and have a projected lifespan of 500 years. Additionally, they claim a 50-60% reduction in energy costs and due to the continuous, single-piece construction and materials used, you’ll never have to worry about leakage or climactic changes.

For more information on Monolithic you can visit their website at: http://www.monolithic.com/

Honorable Mentions

The building methods above made the top three mostly due to the fact that they are all effective in any type of climate. There are, of course, several other great home building methods that are durable, safe, cost-effective and energy efficient, but are not ideally suited for humid or wet environments. For example; in the Southwest, strawbale homes are very popular. I had never even heard of a strawbale home until I moved to Arizona. There’s a reason why they don’t build them in New England or in the southeast, and that’s because they’re susceptible to humidity. But if you live in an arid climate, they’re worth checking into. Strawbale homes are cheaper to build, they’re very durable (most architects and engineers consider them very earthquake resistant). Strawbales also make great insulation, and since they do most of the load-bearing, they save on construction costs.

Then there’s Earthship homes, which are constructed with earth-packed tires and other recycled or natural materials (cans, bottles, stone, plaster, adobe, etc.). These are typically off-grid homes that utilize solar energy and natural temperature-control methods. While there are Earthship homes all over the U.S. and Europe - and proponents claim that they’re suitable for any environment - I’ve heard reports that they don’t do very well in areas that get a lot of rainfall.

If you want to go more “primitive” with your building methods, you could use rammed earth (the Great Wall of China was built with rammed earth blocks). Adobe (earth and straw bricks baked in the sun). Cordwood (12”-24” sections of small logs mortared in place with the flat ends comprising the interior and exterior of the wall). Cob (an ancient mixture of clay, sand, water and straw pressed into thick walls).

There are a few drawbacks to alternative building methods, though. Such as; it can be difficult acquire loans for these types of building projects, and resale can be a problem (there’s not a big market for non-traditional, weirdo types of houses). You may also encounter resistance from your neighbors, who might consider your home an “eyesore” or be concerned about how it will affect their property values.

Also, depending on where you intend to build, you may encounter problems complying with building codes and regulations (for example; where do you put a fire escape on a geodesic dome?) But there are plans available for many alternative building methods that are code compliant in most areas, and most (if not all) manufacturers of pre-fabricated homes and kits have already incorporated code compliance into their designs.

Just make sure you do some research into the building regulations in your area to determine if your plans are up to code. (See example photos on next page)

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Survival Reloading Presses and Other Gear

by Doug Bell

(Example Images at End of Article)

Let’s say the world is falling apart, going to hell in a hand basket, and you don’t want to go along for the ride. The why is not really important to us now, it might be that Greece is going bankrupt and dragging the rest of the European Union down with it, it might be 2012 and Planet-X, the Mayan Calendar, or what ever is currently on the radar right now, but I assure you, The End Is Near. Rome fell, Classical Greece fell, Egypt fell, the USA is just the last in a long line, but if history tells us anything, sooner or later, (possibly in 2012), things will end, and it always gets worse over time. So what can you, the thinking survivalist prepper do? What can you do to ensure your families survival and prosperity no matter what? Simple! Learn to reload and ensure you and yours are a valuable asset to your group or community and you will prosper.

Now reloading is idiot simple to do. I know, I have been reloading for close to forty years now and still have all my fingers and both eyes, so if I can do it, most anyone who can chew gum and walk at the same time can learn to reload safely as well. Since nothing chaps my bum like some fool who tries to make everything sound mysterious, like some sort of “black art” done at midnight under the dark of the new moon, I am going to put this as simply as I can, so everyone can understand it. Which will be too simple for the advanced reloader, but no one is born knowing all this, so we have to start somewhere... and that’s the beginning.

The absolute FIRST thing I tell every single person who wants to learn to reload to do is go to their local library and get: Lee Precision’s MODERN RELOADING 2nd ed, Lyman’s #49 reloading manual (which just replaced the #48, which is a fine book as well, and I actually prefer it a bit better), and DBI’s METALLIC CARTRIDGE RELOADING 3rd ed, out of print now. If your local library doesn’t have them, request them through the inter-library loan system and then read all three of them cover to cover. All three cover reloading, or handloading if you prefer, but all three look at it from completely different points of view, with a completely different how, what and why.

Lee, naturally, considers all Lee equipment to be the best, and in many cases I agree that much of it is excellent, after all there is a reason so many reloading companies copy Lee equipment, but Lee has brought out it’s share of flops as well. Lyman, of course, only talks about Lyman equipment and considers Lyman to be the best, and again, much of it is truly is excellent. METALLIC CARTRIDGE RELOADING isn’t put out by any one company and looks at everyone’s equipment, such as RCBS, Dillon, Forster, Hornady, Redding, C-H, etc., and tells you accurately and honestly what is good, what is hype and what is, and what is not, worth owning. All three use Lyman load data, so there is no problem with the supplied data in any of them either. There are no bad reloading manuals anymore, but I consider these to be the “top three” for the beginner to start learning with, and you will learn a lot.

OK, now that you have some idea what we are talking about, know the proper terms for everything and what they all do, we can get down to brass tacks, or in this case, metallic reloading presses. So what press do you buy? Well again, it isn’t that easy, but then it never is, is it? First you need to decide how much money you want to spend, how fast you want to reload, how much space you can devote to it, so on and so forth. Sure it is easy for me to say “Buy a Dillon 5050B, which will reload everything” and leave it at that, but that would be a serious disservice, because while the Dillon 550B is an excellent press, and one of my favorites, there are some things that other presses can do better (yes, I know, heresy, please bear with me) and might be a better fit for you.

To start, the most basic reloading equipment you can buy is the Lee Loader. This is a simple die body that you place over the cartridge case and use a rubber or rawhide mallet (here after called a hammer) to beat the die over the case to resize it. Then you take a rod and beat the case back out of the die. Depriming the case and seating the new primer are basically more of the same, taking a rod and knocking the old primer out, and putting the new primer in the holder and tapping the case down over it. A powder scoop to dump the recommended amount of the proper powder, and you put the case back in the die and seat the bullet with another rod. This is as basic as you can get and works just fine, in fact it can load world class ammunition which has set records. The problem is it is S-L-O-W, and if you want to load with a powder other than the listed powders and weights, you need either other powder scoops or a powder measure.

Next up the line is the Lyman 310 tong tool. This has been around for better than a 100 years, so it must have something going for it. Back when I started reloading, (and air mail came cross country by pony), the 310 was made of nickel plated steel, but now it’s aluminum. it also used to be made for just about every cartridge that you could hope to use, but now the selection of dies Lyman offers is rather limited. The name tells you what the tools look like - tongs or pliers that you squeeze together to resize the case neck, deprime, reprime and seat bullets. You still need a powder scoop or another way of putting in the proper amount of powder, however. When the 310 came out, that was not a problem, you just filled the case with black powder, seated a bullet and were done, and for some cartridges, that still works fine.

If you want to be a bit more advanced in your reloading and use a set of reloading dies to full length resize your cases - which also requires the use of a set of shell holders as well - you will need a press of some kind. The next step up are the various hand-held reloading presses that use mechanical linkage for leverage, rather than a hammer or grip pressure, to do most of the work. These would be the now unfortunately discontinued Lyman Accupress and Lee Hand Press. There are also various other high quality, and high priced, precision hand presses for the bench rest crowd that we don’t need to worry about at this time. Personally I liked the Lyman Accupress much better than the Lee, as it could be either used as a hand held press, or bolted or clamped down to a bench or other surface for reloading. Either would get the job done at the range or other than at the reloading bench, although resizing larger, especially magnum sized riflecases, can be an adventure.

At one time, one of the most common reloading presses was the single stage “C” press, which looked, (amazingly enough), like a ‘C’, open at the front with a rod, called a ram, coming up from the bottom with a simple lever to power it. The problem with C presses was generally two-fold:

The press could “spring”, or give, when pressure was applied, and the simple lever had no real leverage to resize or pull the cases out of the die. All this changed when RCBS founder Fred Huntington patented the compound leverage linkage that just about every press uses today. Various methods were tried to keep the C press from springing, such as metal straps across the front, but this simply lead to the “O” press, which is a fully enclosed circle or square. The most common O press is the justly famous RCBS Rock Chucker press, which has been widely copied by just about everyone now, and still is one of the best single stage reloading presses available. Hornady, Lyman also make excellent single stage presses.

For faster reloading, the turret press is next. Unlike the single stage C and O press, which used one die at a time, that had to be screwed in and then adjusted to use, and when you were done with that die, unscrewed and a new die screwed in and adjusted to do the next step, turret presses have a top plate, or turret, that holds from three to seven dies at one time. You place a cartridge case in the shell holder and run it up into the first die, lower the case, turn the turret and repeat until you have a finished (fully loaded) case. Examples of excellent turret presses are the Lyman T-Mag and the Redding turret. Lee has a Cast Classic Turret, which I have not used myself, but have heard enough good things about that it bears looking into. I was not impressed with the other, aluminum framed, Lee turret press that I tried however.

Progressives are basically turret presses that moves several cases around to the various dies, instead of loading only one case at a time. Since they process several cases at one time, once the shell plates are filled with cases, they produce a loaded case with each pull of the handle if all goes as planned. Currently, the top of the line is the Dillon 550B, followed by the faster, and more expensive, Dillon 650 and commercial grade Dillon 1050. The Dillon Square Deal press (DSD) is a “handgun only” press, but well thought of by those who only load handgun cartridges, and uses special DSD set of dies. The Dillon 550B MSRP is no more expensive than some low quality “progressives” that don’t work (or nearly as well anyway if they do work) and are pushed by price alone, being wildly discounted normally, which I mistakenly bought before buying a Dillon. The Dillon 550B can load most common handgun and rifle cartridges, has an interchangeable tool head and interchangeable shell plates, plus a “No B.S.” warranty which they stand behind, unlike some others. The Hornady Lock’N’Load progressive presses also are popular, although I have not actually used one. There are, of course, other presses that for one reason or another, are not as popular as the above listed presses, such as straight line presses, H frame presses, and so on, which we generally don’t need to worry about here, but are mentioned for completeness.

With so many presses available, how do you decide what press, or which type of press, to buy? That, as they say, is the $64,000 question. What, exactly, do you want to do? If you intend to only load for handgun cartridges, then most any press will work, but the Dillon Square Deal is the near universal choice of experienced reloaders who load in volume. If you intend to do bullet swaging (the cold forming of lead), case forming (forming of cases of one shape into another), or load extremely large cases, such as the .50 Browning Machinegun (BMG) cartridge, then a C press is obviously out, and the various turret and progressives won’t work either, leaving O frame presses, such as the Lyman Orange Crusher, RCBS Rock Chucker (or newer Rock Crusher Supreme), and other heavy duty iron framed presses.

If you need speed, turrets might be what you are looking for, since once the dies are screwed in and adjusted, they don’t need to be removed and a new die put into place. If the turret press has interchangeable turrets, you can have several turrets with all your dies already adjusted and ready to go for each cartridge. Faster still are the various progressive and semi-progressive presses. The Dillon 550B, possibly the most popular progressive of all time, is actually a “semi-progressive” as the operator needs to turn the shell plate to the next die station, rather than the press automaticly doing it for you as the other Dillon presses do. Since the US Army Palma Team loads their match ammunition, for 600, 800 and 1000 yard shooting, on the Dillon 550B, producing accurate ammunition should not be a problem. Also Dillon presses are the near universal choice of top USPSA/IPSC (U.S. Practical Shooting Assn/International Practical Shooting Confederation) and IDPA (International Defensive Pistol Assn) shooters as well, where a bad load can cost the shooter thousands of dollars at a match.

So what do I have? My first press was a RCBS Rock Chucker, which I still have, a Lyman Accupress, several Lee Compact presses, and four Dillon 450B presses and a Dillon 550B. OK, the Dillon 450B was not listed above as it is out of production now, having being replaced by the more advanced 550B, which I bought first, and liked so much that I bought the used 450s at very reasonable prices to use too. Unfortunately, Dillon no longer has parts for the 450B, but as it uses the same shell holders as the 550B, loading different cartridges on them is not a problem. The RCBS Rock Chucker can handle swaging, case forming, and the .50 BMG case, while the Lyman Accupress and Lee Compacts are used for depriming cases, and other light duty work. The Dillon 450B presses lack the interchangeable tool heads of the 550B, so are set up for “single cartridges”, mostly handgun reloading, and the 550B handles everything else.

Once you have your press, you need shell holders and dies. Fortunately most dies are now a standard 7/8” x 14 thread so most current dies will work with most current presses. The Lyman Tong Tool and some older presses, such as the Lyman All-American turret press use, or used, specially threaded dies that only fit that press. Most current presses of the C, O, H, and turret style also use so called “universal” shell holders, because they will work in most brands of single stage or turret presses. Most progressives have a shell plate (multi-case holder) rather than a single shell holder that are unique to that make and model of press. More on dies, shell holders and other items next time. (View example Images on Next Page)

Douglas Bell was born and raised in Iowa City, Iowa. He has been a reloader for 40 years and a professional gunsmith for 30. His work has been featured in such publications as: Gun Week, American Handgunner, Live Free DIRECTIONS, Kurt Saxon’s U.S. Militia, The Independent American, Dark Knight SURVIVOR, NSA Newletter, Region 5 Report and many others.

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2012: Do We Really Have One Year Left?

by Ed Corcoran

The dreaded year 2012 is now upon us and it seems like everyone has a theory of what’s going to happen either before or on December 21st. The concept of 2012 as the year the world ends is not a new one. I remember reading and hearing about the Mayan calendar, Planet X and Nostradamus’ predictions over twenty years ago, but these ideas have been gaining momentum for the last couple of years and we can expect it to reach a fever pitch as the months go by.

Up until now I’ve kept my personal opinions about 2012 largely to myself - at least publicly, anyway. Partly because I have no interest in the elusive art of prognostication (I’m no prophet), but mostly because I’m reminded of that old quote by Abraham Lincoln: “Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt.”.

It’s bad enough that most of the “sheeple” out there think of preppers and survivalists as tinfoil-hat-wearing, paranoid mental cases, because we’re preparing for perfectly rational contingencies - like natural and man-made disasters, economic meltdown, or a collapse of our electrical grid - without throwing speculative, half-baked theories based on prophecies and legends into the mix.

Now don’t get me wrong. Ever since I was a teenager, I’ve always been fascinated by the Sumerians and their legends of the Annunaki and the planet Nibiru, as well as the prophecies of Nostradamus, Edgar Cayce and the Book of Revelation. And nobody loves a good conspiracy theory like I do (some of which I believe are good deal more than mere “theories”). But when it comes to discussing invisible planets on a near collision course with earth, interpretations of vague quatrains, or a Biblical apocalypse; I feel that’s best left in the realm of speculation. Even in the time of Jesus, people believed that they would see the apocalypse in their lifetime, and history is replete with doomsday prophets warning of the end of days, which, in the end turned out to be much ado about nothing.

I also don’t think that the end of the Mayan calendar signifies the end of the world, and neither do present-day Mayans, as Chris Nyerges discovered when he spent time with the Mayan people in the Yucatan peninsula, learning from one of the world’s leading Mayan scholars (check out his article: “The Road to 2012” ). I’m not sure how the intellectual leap is made to equate the end of the Mayan calendar with the literal end of days, and I get rather annoyed when I watch a TV show or read an article that says something like: “The Mayans prophesied that the end of the world will be on December 21st, 2012...” They did no such thing! And if the Mayans themselves are telling us that that’s not what the calendar indicates, then that’s good enough for me. I’d rather concentrate on the dangers that are clearly visible (to those of us who are paying attention).

There’s nothing particularly significant about the date December 21st, 2012, either. Other than marking the beginning of the winter solstice. Calendars (whether Mayan or Gregorian) are simply man-made devices designed to mark the passage of time. The types of events that people are predicting for the end of 2012 could happen at ANY TIME. Disasters don’t keep a schedule or make appointments, so if you’re thinking that you have several months to get prepared before zero-hour, you could very likely be in for a rude awakening if the economy crashes tomorrow, or there’s a random coronal mass ejection that wipes out the power grid at a moment’s notice.

Apart from being caught unprepared, my next biggest fear is if nothing disastrous at all happens... Yes, you read that right... Allow me to explain.

Most of us remember the last big surge of preparedness and survival awareness that occurred in the waning days of the 20th century, leading up to the year 2000 - or “Y2K” if you prefer - and when all the computer clocks in the world rolled over and no airplanes fell out of the sky, no power plants shut down (or melted down) and the world remained the same as it was at 11:59pm 1999, lots of people either felt foolish for believing that a computer glitch would bring about TEOTWAWKI (The End Of The World As We Know It), or at worst, felt that they had wasted a lot of time and money and consequently stopped prepping and learning survival skills.

It is my fervent hope that 2012 comes and goes without incident, and if that is the case, my next concern is that everyone will heave a collective sigh of relief and forget all about staying prepared and abandon their preparedness and survival practices. After Y2K came and went, many people stopped storing food, stopped learning self-reliance and survival skills and sold off all of their gear. Worst of all, their perspective became jaundiced and cynical in regards to preparedness, with an “I’m won’t get fooled by that again!” attitude.

Many of the events that can bring about a societal collapse or TEOTWAWKI are not events at all. I think it’s likely that we will experience what’s called a “slow collapse”. In fact, it’s happening all around us right now right now. Here are a few of my top concerns:

The Growing Food Crisis - We are seeing growing food shortages on a global scale, which has caused the commodity price of wheat, rice and corn to skyrocket over the last few years, with no sign of reversal. Entire countries are becoming incapable of growing their own staple crops anymore. Here in America, unsustainable corporate farming practices are destroying the soil, and each year it becomes harder and harder to maintain the same level of productivity. I won’t even get into GMO crops and the gradual government/U.N. Takeover of our domestic food supply.

Water Shortages - Fresh water is being depleted faster than it can be replenished due to over-pumping, both here in the U.S. and world-wide. In the United States, analysts have predicted that the systematic depletion of the Ogallala Aquifer could eventually turn “America’s Breadbasket” back into the “Dust Bowl”. Several other countries throughout the world are facing even worse water supply issues.

Peak Oil - World oil production is struggling to keep up with demand as it is, and the demand keeps on growing as countries like China, India and other newly industrialized nations are starting to emerge as major oil consumers. This will impact EVERYTHING from farming, to manufacturing, to construction, to the transportation (and therefore the cost) of food, etc... And we don’t have an infrastructure to live in a world without petroleum.

Increasing Disasters - The global climate is indeed changing and the frequency of natural disasters keeps going up, placing a huge financial strain on countries and regions hardest hit. The tsunami and subsequent nuclear disaster in Japan, for example, wiped out most of the vast agricultural areas in that country. Many believe that the Japanese economy (the 3rd largest in the world) is doomed to collapse. This, in combination with the collapse of European economies will have a profound effect on the rest of the world.

Economic Collapse - Our own debt-based, fiat economy is running out of road. Our political leaders are loathe to do anything but put a band-aid on the problem, while a privately owned bank (the Federal Reserve) and a globalist oligarchy of corporations and megalithic financial institutions pull all the strings. Since our currency is not based on anything tangible, our money is ostensibly fictitious, with no real value at all. It’s only a matter of time (and not much time at that) before this unsustainable Ponzi scheme we call an economic system collapses under its own weight.

Grid Fragility - Our electrical grid infrastructure is outdated and incredibly vulnerable to collapse. We have woefully inadequate backup systems and spare transformers on hand to repair the grid should a massive solar flare or an EMP attack (a nuclear device detonated high in the atmosphere for the purpose of creating an EMP pulse) were to occur. Since the manufacture of most of our transformers has been outsourced to China (where else?) it’s estimated that if the grid were to crash, it would take over a decade to rebuild, if it ever gets rebuilt at all.

Of course, these are not the only concerns that threaten our “world as we know it”. I could cover in-depth several other issues that could have a devastating affect on our way of life. Such as the ongoing policy of U.S. imperialism and military intervention throughout the Middle East, the continuous erosion of our privacy, liberties and Constitutional rights, Gov’t/U.N. Control over our rural land, food supply and health (Agenda 21, Codex Alimentarius), the persistent push towards a globalist New World Order, etc. But due to space constraints, I decided to keep it to my top six immediate concerns.

The main point is; even if we cross the threshold into 2013 and Nibiru never shows up, or we’re not visited by the Anti-Christ, that doesn’t mean our worries are over... but I’m afraid that’s exactly what a majority of people will think. There doesn’t have to be some earth-shattering, mega-apocalypse, that completely transforms our world overnight. All of the above issues will continue to be a concern, and continue to get worse, and each has the potential to either kick us back to the 19th century, or push us down into 2nd or 3rd world status. So keep on prepping and learning to survive without fear!

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How to Build a Solar Still

Eric Smith

[Editor’s note] Distillation is perhaps the most effective method of sanitizing water. Many contaminants, (including radioactive particles) can be removed from water through the distillation process. (actually, it’s more like removing the water from the contaminant). The thing about distilling water with a traditional still (boiler) is that it requires a lot of fuel and attention. Solar stills are an excellent solution to this problem. The two biggest benefits of using a solar still to sanitize drinking water are; 1) It’s economical; the only fuel source you need is the power of the sun. And 2) It’s low maintenance. Just fill it up in the morning and come back in the evening to collect your purified water.

A solar still is essentially a lined box with a sloped glass lid. After filling the still with water, the heat from the sun converts the water to a gaseous state through the evaporation process, leaving all impurities behind. The water then condenses on the angled glass and rolls into a reservoir that drains into collection container. Solar stills are used to great effect by homesteaders and in regions of the world where the water quality is poor, and fuel wood is scarce.

In a grid collapse, or long-term survival situation where burning wood may be your only source of fuel for heating and cooking, you’ll want to be economical with it. Using a solar still instead of boiling your drinking water, will go a long way in conserving your fuel resources. The volume of sanitized water that can be procured through distillation will depend largely on the size of the still. The following instructions by Eric Smith are for building a relatively small still, but you may scale up the dimensions to build a still that’s large enough for your needs.

Building the Still

The box is built from 3⁄4” BC-grade plywood, painted black on the inside to absorb heat. We used a double layer of plywood on the sides to resist warping and to help insulate the box, with an insulated door at the back and a sheet of glass on top.

Finding a good lining or container to hold the water in the inside of the box as it heats and evaporates can be complicated. The combination of high heat and water containing salt or other contaminants can corrode metals faster than usual and cause plastic containers to break down or offgas, imparting an unpleasant taste to the distilled water. The best liners are glass or stainless steel, although you can also coat the inside of the box with two or three coats of black silicone caulk (look for an F.D.A.-listed type approved for use around food). Spread the caulk around the bottom and sides with a taping knife. After it dries and cures thoroughly, just pour water in—the silicone is impervious to the heat and water.

We chose to paint the inside black and use two large glass baking pans to hold the water. Glass baking pans are a safe, inexpensive container for dirty or salty water, and they can easily be removed for cleaning. We used two 10 × 15” pans, which hold up to 8 quarts of water when full. To increase the capacity of the still, just increase the size of the wooden box and add more pans.

The operation of the distiller is simple. As the temperature inside the box rises, water in the pans heats up and evaporates, rising up to the angled glass, where it slowly runs down to the collector tube and then out to a container.

The runoff tube is made from 1” PEX tubing. Stainless steel can also be used. However, use caution with other materials—if in doubt, boil a piece of the material in tap water for 10 minutes, then taste the water after it cools to see if it added any flavor. If it did, don’t use it.

Construction

1 Mark and cut the plywood pieces according to the cutting list, p. 133. Cut the angled end pieces with a circular saw or table saw set to a 9° angle.

2 Cut the insulation the same size as the plywood base, then screw both to the 2 x 4 supports with 21⁄2" screws.

3 Screw the first layer of front and side pieces to the base and to each other, then add the back piece. Pre-drill the screws with a countersink bit.

4 Glue and screw the remaining front and side pieces on, using clamps to hold them together as you pre-drill and screw. Use 11⁄4" screws to laminate the pieces together and 2" screws to join the corners.

5 Glue and screw the hinged door pieces together, aligning the bottom and side edges, then set the door in position and screw on the hinges. Add a pull or knob at the center.

6 Paint the inside of the box with black high-temperature paint. Cover the back and the door with reflective foil glued with contact cement. Let the paint dry for several days so that all the solvents evaporate off.

7 Apply weather-seal around the edges of the hinged door to make the door airtight.

8 Drill a hole for the PEX drain. The top of the PEX is 1⁄2" down from the top edge. Clamp a scrap piece to the inside so the drill bit doesn’t splinter the wood when it goes through.

9 Mark the first 19" of PEX, then cut it in half with a utility knife. Score it lightly at first to establish the cut lines.

10 Drill three 1⁄8" holes in the side of the PEX for screws, then insert the PEX through the hole. Butt it tight against the other side, then screw it in place, sloping it about 1⁄4".

11 Wipe a thick bead of silicone caulk along the top edge of the PEX to seal it against the plywood.

12 Shim the box level and tack a temporary stop to the top edge to make it easy to place the glass without smearing the caulk. Spread a generous bead of caulk on all the edges, then lay the glass in place. Tape it down around the edges with painter’s tape, then let it set up overnight.

Eric Smith was kind enough to contribute this article adapted from his book: DIY Solar Projects – How to Put the Sun to Work in Your Home (2011 Creative Publishing International http://www.creativepub.com/)

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How to Build Your Own Generator

by Larry Pendell

EQUIPMENT CAPABILITIES

Besides being able to operate on various fuels your generator will be able to;

Provide electricity during emergencies

Reduce your electric bill (if you have a cheap source of fuel)

Make 3 phase power from of single phase

Provide heat for your home (co-generation)

Your generator consists of 4 main items:

Engine, 3 phase electric motor, Frame & Controls

INTRODUCTION

The objective is for a survivalist to build an electric generator using off the shelf items and whatever fuel that is available - including unusual fuels. It is assumed that the engine / generator is being built because there has been a break-down in commerce and an emergency supply of electricity is needed. What is described is a generator that’s as simple and basic as possible and still work. Although this design has been developed and tested it does have some limitations. Voltage and frequency regulation would be considered poor under normal circumstances. But with a little tinkering it should be able to be kept within plus or minus 10 percent. We would suggest using it for lighting and small electric motors (like refrigerators and freezers). If better regulation is desired, there is a voltage regulator available. (See addendum)

We assume the person doing this has mechanical and electrical wiring skills or knows somebody who does. Rather than pad these instructions with pages of material on volts, amps, ohms, etc. That information is available at your local library or book store. The addendum gives sources of things you may want or need to purchase.

Deciding what fuel is probably the most overriding consideration. There are two major types of engines and the fuel selection will decide which type you use. The most common is the automotive type “spark ignited” (SI) and the diesel type “direct injected” (DI). With the spark ignited you can use gasoline, propane or natural gas. You can also use paint thinner or other aromatics. I would suggest that you use an older style engine with a distributor (easly adjustable). When using gasoline the timing will need to be about 15 degrees before top dead center (TDC), with propane you will be at 25 degrees TDC, and with natural gas it will be 34 degrees before TDC. If you use other fuels like paint thinner you will need to experiment with the timing and air/fuel mixture.

If you use natural gas or propane you will need an “Impco” carburetor and pressure regulators. (See addendum)

On the other hand if you decide to use an injected engine, the first fuel of choice is diesel. But you have many other options. For example home heating oil, used motor oil, used vegetable oil from deep fat fryers like McDonalds, (the exhaust will smell like chicken) fish oil, lard, tallow, etc. You will need to heat these other fuels to about 250 degees F while using them. If you use kerosene mix it with motor oil about 10 to 1. Diesel, kerosene or home heating oil doesn’t need to be heated. The reason you heat the other fuels is to get them to the viscosity of diesel. You will not need to change the injection settings. You will need to start and stop the engine on diesel. In other words before you shut the engine down you will need to run it on diesel for at least 20 minutes (to clear the other fuels out of the fuel filter) this will of course leave you with diesel in the injectors for your next start.

You will want a minimum of 2 devices on your engine to prevent it from damaging itself. Oil pressure switch & Water temperature switch

You will need a governor to control the speed of the engine. Most diesel type engines have the governor built in and some industrial SI engines do also, but automotive engines do not, in which case you will need to buy one and connect it to the carburetor throttle shaft.

You will probably also want for the engine; Water temperature gauge, Oil pressure gauge (see addendum for the above components)

GENERATOR / CAPACITORS

We are going to take an electric motor and convert it into a generator. For this project you will need a 3 phase electric motor that has a rating of approximately 1775 rpm. We will run it between 1775 and 1825 rpm. It will also need to have 9 or more leads. It will need to have a voltage rating of 230/460 or 240/480. Other than that it can be totally enclosed, open drip proof, C face, in other words what ever you can find.

The capacitors need to be rated at 440 volt or more. They need to be the “continuous run” type. You will need a minimum of .6 micro farad per horsepower per leg. In other words; if you have a 5 hp motor/generator you would need 3 mf per leg or a total of 9 mf. This can vary because electric motors have a wide range of inductance which is what determines the amount of capacitance. Most loads have inductance, so this has to be provided for also. (for sources see addendum). The actual amount of capacitance is determined in the “start up” section

SIZING THE UNIT

Of course the amount of current you need will determine the size of the unit. The bigger you make the unit the better the voltage regulation will be. But the fuel consumption will be worse. The best of both worlds is to have an over sized generator (motor) compared to the engine. Two horsepower of electric motor to one horsepower of engine. For example a ten horsepower engine connected to a twenty horsepower electric motor will make a 5 KW. generator. This equates to about 15 amps on each outlet. Caution make sure that the engine horsepower is its continuous rating. If you cannot find its continuous rating use the following formula: 8 cu.in (132 cc) equals one horsepower with a SI engine, and 6 cu.in. (100 cc) equals one horsepower with a DI engine.

Using the above example you would need 6 mf of capacitance per phase or a total of 18 mf as a probable minimum.

Do not attempt to hard-wire this unit to your house (it is not compatible with house wiring)

Simply wire it with its own outlets as shown in drawing #3  on pg 7

Do not connect the “commons” together or to the grounds. You can connect the ground lugs to ground and the frame of the generator to ground, but none of the leads or subsequent wiring. This system does not have an affinity for ground which makes it very safe.

FRAME and RADIATOR

The objective of the frame is to have a foundation to hold the engine, generator, and radiator as one unit. It also has to hold the engine and generator in alignment so they can be coupled together and insure long coupler life. An adapter will have to be fabricated to fit on the flywheel to provide an output shaft. (See cross-sectional drawing #5 on pg 6)

Engines develop torque, generators develop counter torque. Long story short, this puts a torque (twist) on the frame. The frame must be ridged enough to withstand these forces. The best way is to have at least one cross member made out of pipe or tubing. (See drawing #4 on pg 6)

The frame shown in the drawing is of the C channel type. Of course larger generators require heavier frames Using the following will give you an idea what to use. Using structural channels suggests you use 3 in. main frame rail for units up to 10 hp. Then 4 in. up to 30 hp then 1 in per 10 hp thereafter of engine horsepower.

An oversized radiator is needed because automobiles depend on forward motion to drive the air through the radiator, whereas a stationary engine depends on the fan only. If the engine comes with a fan already on it, position the radiator a few inches in front of it and make a shroud to force the air through the radiator. This is important. If there is no fan on the engine, then buy an electric (12 volt) one from a junk yard. (there are millions of them) You may need more than one depending on the size of your unit.

CONTROLS

Wire your engine the same as you would if it were in an automobile with one exception. You will need a relay in the circuit leading to the ignition and fuel solenoid if used. (on natural gas or propane systems a solenoid valve is recommended) This relay is there to shut the engine down if it overheats or looses oil pressure. (See drawing #2)

START UP

At this point is assuming that the unit is completely built and ready to run. First make sure the engine has oil, coolant water and fuel. (you would be surprised how often this gets over looked) Start the engine, once it is running smoothly, adjust the governor to 1800 rpm. A hand held tack held to the crankshaft pulley will work fine. Super precision is not necessary, though the rpm is what determines the frequency coming from the generator: 1800 = 60 hertz.

With the engine / generator (genset) running at 1800, use a volt meter and check to see if there is voltage at the receptacle. If no voltage is present, three things could be wrong. First; there cannot be any load when starting the unit, anytime it is started. Second; the generator could be “neutralized”. To make sure this condition doesn’t exist, stop the unit and apply 12 volt DC (from the battery) across terminals T1 and T2 for just a moment, restart the unit and check the voltage - sometimes it takes 20 seconds for the voltage to come up. Third; you do not have enough capacitance. Stop the unit and add capacitors in parallel as shown in drawing #3 (do not ever mess with the capacitors while the unit is running, these voltages are lethal).

Restart the unit and check for voltage if you still do not have voltage, try a little trick - rev the engine up some, if you are close, a voltage will develop if not add more caps. When you have enough capacitors you will get voltage. When you have voltage run the unit at 1800 rpm. The open circuit voltage should be about 135 volts at the plug in. If you are above 135 remove some capacitance and of course if you are below add capacitance. All three phases do not have to be equal in capacitance, but the closer they are the better.

A NOTE about capacitors: Capacitors store electricity and should be shorted out before they are handled.

As you add load, the voltage will drop. Ideally when you reach the design output of the generator the voltage should be about 120. There are two ways to fine tune the voltage (1) adjust the capacitance in small steps or (2) change the rpm of the engine. If you change the engine speed you will also be changing the AC frequency. This is not important if you are using it for lighting using incandescent lights, but if you are running motors like refrigerators or freezers it becomes a factor. Bear in mind that when an electric motor starts there is an inrush and the voltage will dip momentarily.

CO-GENERATION

As long as you are running your genset you might get the heat for your home that is normally wasted.

This is relatively easy. Simply install a radiator (with fan) or water type baseboard heating in your house and run pipe or tubing to the engine and hook up the same as the car heater was. If you aren’t going to use an automobile engine, T into the coolant outlet on the engine. If you can hook in upstream of the thermostat you won’t need a circulation pump. If not buy a boiler circulation pump (see addendum). Run the lines as mentioned before and T the return into the inlet side of the engine. To control the heat coming into the house install a shut off valve in the line (anywhere it’s convenient).

SAFETY

It goes without saying that you are dealing with two dangerous commodities: High energy fuels and lethal voltages of electricity. Proceed with caution, has built untold number of gensets yet I wouldn’t think of not using safety glasses. For example make or buy a closeable electrical container for the capacitors. Be prudent with the handling of fuel.

I have been designing and building gensets for more than a half century and it is just as much fun and as exciting as it was when I built my very first one. There is something almost magical about making electricity, I am sure you will enjoy yourself. Follow these directions and use common sense and you will have good luck.

REVIEWING THE DRAWINGS

Drawing #1 is of a basic genset, the components are different colors for clarity.

Drawing #2 shows the engine circuits - except the 12 volt alternator is not shown - just wire it the normal way. The starter is shown, the start button is a normally open push to close button. The override is normally closed push to open button. The reason for the override is to disable the shut down circuit. (Until oil pressure is established it has to be shut off) Control relay 1 also turns on and off the ignition on a SI engine or the fuel on a DI engine.

Drawing #3 is for a “star” wound motor. To know if this is what you have look on the nomenclature tag and in the hookup. T1 will hook to L1 in high voltage and T1 and T7 will hook to L1 in low voltage.

As you can see there are 3 phases. The initial capacitors are hooked up in a typical “delta” configuration; additional caps are added in parallel as shown.

Each receptacle is single phase 125 volts. Connections T1 – T2 – T3 will provide 416 volt 3 phase. Connections T47 – T58 – T69 will provide 208 volt three phase. If 3 phase is more important to you add more capacitance and bring the voltage up to 480 / 240 but understand this also increases the voltage at the receptacle to 138 volts.

Drawing #4 is a suggested frame, please note the tubular center cross member (this is to counter the torque) Frames can be made out of many things - channels, I beams, angle iron, tubing, I’ve even used wood. All that is important is to make the frame strong and rigid enough to handle your genset.

Drawing #5 is a cross section of the output shaft adapter on the engine. The bell housing is shown in magenta, the flywheel is blue, and the adapter shaft and mounting plate are orange. It consists of two parts that are welded together (welds are shown in black). Please notice the flywheel has been machined to allow the adapter to recess in. This assures the adapter will be perfectly centered.

ADDENDUM (off the shelf parts you may need)

Water temp switch  (metric 16x1.5)   SW-519  Subaru 1985-87

Water temp switch (US 1/2 pipe) SW-530 Dodge 1982-85

Oil pressure switch  (US 1/8 pipe)  PS-24 or equivalent

Crank Shaft Sensor 58  or  CSS 58  or  SU 291 (Note;  most crankshaft sensors are “magnetic pickups” others can be substituted)

Engine gauges, and the above can be found at;  World Discounts in Buffalo NY. (716) 447-9066 or  Advanced Auto / Auto Zone / NAPA or other auto parts stores.

Relay & base – Capacitors – Push buttons – Switches  Grainger / MSC / McMaster Carr

Meters – Voltage – Frequency – Amperage   Grainger / MSC / McMaster Carr

Impco  Carburetor - Acme Alternate Fuel System Inc.  Minnesota  507-345-4000

Governor - Ambac / Woodward

If you want closer voltage regulation, send an Email to Larry Pendell describing your genset and we will quote you one. (they are not in production and are based on an invention of the writer and are not patented yet)  engenaire@comcast.net

Note:  used 3 phase electric motors can be found at machinery dealers, electric rewind shops and junk yards. (make sure they are in good running shape)

Note: used automobile engines can be found at auto parts, wrecker & towing companies

Note: If you decide you would prefer to purchase a manufactured survival generator, designed by the author see website: http://www.thermalwatt.com/

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The Reality of TEOTWAWKI and Strategies for Survival

By Lisa Bedford, The Survival Mom

One of the first acronyms I learned as a new prepper was TEOTWAWKI. The end of the world as we know it.  I knew from reading James Rawles’ Patriots that the end could come suddenly, within just a few days as America’s banking system collapsed upon itself. Another, more drastic version of TEOTWAWKI was spelled out for me in an online article, “The One Hour Meltdown”. Neither vision of the future was pleasant, but I was skeptical about the concept of the sudden collapse.

Instead, a slow decline, a de-evolution, of our lifestyles and our economy may be far more likely.  Continued high levels of unemployment, for example, are eroding away at America’s middle class. Worse still, is the fact that long-term joblessness causes individuals and families to exhaust their savings, retirement funds, and max out credit cards in their attempt to stave off bankruptcy, evictions, and home foreclosures. As each safety net is destroyed, people become more and more entrenched in the growing underclass, and in today’s economy, it’s going to be more difficult than ever to recoup what has been lost. TEOTWAWKI has become a reality for millions of Americans, and the slow decay continues.

The proof is in the numbers

In the past year, 2.6 million people have joined the ranks of those living below the poverty level.  We now have 15.1% of Americans living at or below that level, measured by an income of $22,314 or less for a family of four. The median income has decreased to levels seen in the mid-1990’s.

In a recent New York Times article, Trudi Renwick, a Census official, stated, “Last year, about 48 million people, ages 18 to 64 did not work even one week out of the year, up from 45 million in 2009.”

From the same article:

“According to the Census figures, the median annual income for a male full-time, year-round worker in 2010 — $47,715 — was virtually unchanged, in 2010 dollars, from its level in 1973, when it was $49,065, said Sheldon Danziger, professor of public policy at the University of Michigan.”

Americans are earning less and working less.  Jobs have simply disappeared.

The saddest ending of all

A slow decline of a society is more sad and tragic than a sudden collapse. After all, which is more awful to watch? An animal dropping dead from a single rifle shot, or one that lumbers along in pain from a not-quite-mortal wound, finally dropping, exhausted, miles away? At some point in the future, we’ll wake up and realize that our country has been lumbering along and has finally collapsed. TEOTWAWKI isn’t always sudden. Sometimes it’s slow and sad.

Back when Russia was the USSR, I traveled through such glamour spots as East Berlin, Belgrade, and Leningrad (now St. Petersburg). I was struck by the widespread poverty, from patched up cars from the 1950’s to equally antiquated fashions. Grocery stores were virtually empty, the scarce goods available were poor quality, technology was ancient as vendors used abacuses to calculate sales, and only a very few people at the top of the food chain enjoyed the comforts I took for granted. When I think of a slow collapse of America, this is the snapshot that comes to mind.

Preppers and survivalists will inherit the earth

We are currently in a small window of time in which we can prepare our families for an economic collapse, whether it happens in one day or continues far into the future, “lost decades”, as they say. The concept of preparedness is based on taking steps before a crisis to insure your family’s well-being afterwards.

Recent reports tell of record numbers of Americans resorting to dumpster diving in order to find food. Preppers and survivalists with deep pantries filled with buckets of wheat, SPAM, and soup will be spared that indignity!

Here are a few proactive steps to take in the face of an economic collapse.

1.Reduce your reliance on government support as much as possible. If you’re relying on a solvent Social Security system, you’re already in trouble. If the government gives it to you, they can take it away.

2.Review every expense paid by cash or debit and anything paid for with a credit card. Slash and burn unnecessary expenses. It’s surprising how little we actually need, even though cutting out beloved expenses can be painful. I cried when I had to cancel my son’s guitar lessons, but our family budget couldn’t handle the expense any longer, and I was able to find free lessons online.

3.Set aside a few months worth of food suitable for long-term storage, and then continue stocking up. If your food is stored safely and correctly, there’s really no such thing as having too much, since you can always share with others.

4.Fuel prices will likely escalate at some point. What can you do now to minimize your dependence on car travel? Can you switch to doctors, stores, and businesses within walking or bicycling distance? Imagine, now, that gasoline is $6 a gallon and begin making changes accordingly.

5.Along with fuel, energy prices are headed sky-high. The appliances in your home that use the most electricity are your air conditioner, heater, water heater, and stove. Do you have more than one way to cook food and heat water in order to save on the monthly bill? What about staying warm in the winter and cool in the summer?  Excessively high rates for power are common in countries with struggling economies, so having a plan and the right supplies is crucial.

6.Don’t count on solar. It continues to be prohibitively expensive, even with government and power company assistance. It takes a decade or more to recoup the expense of a whole-house solar system. You’re better off buying smaller solar-powered products such as battery chargers, a solar oven, or a solar-powered refrigerator, although it, too, is costly.

7.Learn how to produce some of your own food by gardening and raising whatever livestock your circumstances allow. Backyard chickens have become so popular that many towns and cities are revising their regulations to allow chickens, and in some cases, other animals, including bees.

8.Pay off debt and tackle the mortgage. Remember, farmers in the Great Depression lost their farms because they couldn’t make the payments, and in some cases, because they couldn’t pay the property tax. Even adding $50 or $100 to a mortgage payment will reduce the principal. If your home is free and clear, start a monthly savings plan so the annual property tax bill can be paid promptly.

9.Save money. Even if the dollar should be devalued, paper money will still have some value. It would be better to have $5000 in a devalued dollar than nothing! Even if such an extreme scenario never occurs, the average period of unemployment is approaching one year. Anything in savings will, literally, buy you and your family time as you seek employment and other sources of income.

10.Consider investing in precious metals. No, you can’t eat gold or silver, but precious metals have always been of value.

11.Don’t count on bartering as a lifestyle. Remember, that in order for a barter exchange to be successful, you have to have what the other person wants or needs. If all you have are airplane bottles of whiskey and I’m a non-drinker, do you really think I’m going to trade my food or medical supplies for your booze? There’s definitely a place for bartering, but too many people see it as the solution rather than a possible option.

12.Stay up to date with dental and medical issues. Drastic changes to our health care system seem inevitable, and if our economy continues its downward slide, only the very wealthy and well-connected will be able to have top-notch medical care on demand.  If you’ve been putting off the annual physical, surgery, or any other procedure, it’s time to make the call, set the appointment, and take care of it.

The worst part about an economic collapse is the unfairness of it all, and that brings me to my final and most important tip. Guard your mind and your heart against bitterness and anger. Most of the recently unemployed are there through no fault of their own. Hundreds of thousands of hard working, responsible Americans have lost homes and property because of decisions made by those in government, finance, and business who continue to live in luxury. Survival begins with a positive mental attitude but anger and resentment consume energy, cause depression, and increase feelings of victimhood. Instead, make the decision to be proactive and self-reliant.  When you do that, you’ve taken power away from those you resent and have empowered yourself. That’s a sign of a true survivor who’s ready to face whatever comes.

Lisa Bedford currently writes and blogs as The Survival Mom (http://thesurvivalmom.com) and has an international following, with thousands of readers each week. She also hosts her own show on the Prepper Podcast Radio Network. Her blog and preparedness lifestyle have been featured in Newsweek, The Arizona Republic, and in numerous radio and TV interviews.  She leads a host of SurvivalMoms who are determined to protect and provide for their families, no matter what. Lisa believes in the power of being prepared for an uncertain future and teaches classes to help others learn these same skills.

Sources:

“Soaring Poverty Casts Spotlight on ‘Lost Decade’” http://www.nytimes.com/2011/09/14/us/14census.html?_r=1&pagewanted=all,

“The One Hour Meltdown”, http://www.grandpappy.info/honehour.htm

“Why Middle-Class Americans Are Turning to Dumpster Diving”, http://www.investinganswers.com/a/why-middle-class-americans-are-turning-dumpster-diving-3543?utm_source=onewsj&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=ia-os-0711

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Surviving Yourself: Privacy and Preparation

By Darin Williams

"It is a double grief to me that I should perish by an arrow feathered from my own wings." -From The Eagle and the Arrow, Aesop’s Fables

You are not safe.

Hence, neither are your plans, your stash of food, your weapons, or your equipment. And you cannot survive the then without safeguarding the now.

As a survivalist or prepper you are, for obvious reasons, not like most people. You clearly have concerns about things deeper and slightly more important than what those wacky Kardashian girls are quarreling about this week. But you probably do share a dangerous commonality with most everyone else: you’re doing next to nothing to safeguard your privacy. And, it’s probably worse than that. You are likely doing a number of things that actually put you and your survival plan at risk.

As with most people in most situations, you think you are doing it right. Otherwise, you would do things differently. You have likely formulated a detailed plan, probably several plans—one for each what-if scenario. With some warning, I’ll do this; otherwise, I’ll do that.

If the grid goes down, we’ll start here; if it stays up a while, we’ll start with something else...

Even if your post-event plan is perfect—and it may well be—even if everyone knows their job; even if you’ve thought of every conceivable scenario, have played it out a thousand times in your head, each with a different twist and different seam, and you’ve got it dialed in and are only relying on the smallest bit of luck, you might still be screwed.

Why? Because there are threats that you can control, but haven’t. These are real, sinister threats that lurk in the proverbial shadows. If more wealthy and powerful people than you, with access to bigger and better tools have been lain prostrate by the same chinks in their mighty armor. What hope do you have in the face of an enemy you’re either completely unaware of, or are thoroughly underestimating?

There are many privacy-related dangers the survivalist, or prepper should be aware of—dangers that can completely nuke everything you’ve worked for, paid for, and planned for. Fortunately, once you understand the threats, you can avoid them.

Appearances—Deceptive and Dangerous

Even the way things appear can derail your survival plans, particularly if your plan is ongoing, or you’re just getting started.

Survival preparation can be costly, and spending money on bulk food items, supplies, weapons and ammunition, camping gear, etc., can send the message—true or not—that you are wealthy, have a lot of disposable income, and thus worth a criminal’s time to victimize. The more people who know what you’re doing, what you’re purchasing, or even the fact that you are buying a lot of what may seem like frivolous things, the greater the likelihood that the wrong person will notice. And the dangers of that observation can, as stated above, be disastrous, both before, and after the world takes a sharp turn for the worse.

Doing things the “normal” way, such as making purchases with your credit card, having supplies shipped to your home, in your name, or purchasing your firearms from an FFL-holder can be a path to disaster.

You can avoid this by simply having orders shipped to a mail drop, or PMB. Perhaps a friend in a nearby rural area would accept packages for you, or maybe a relative who appears more low key.

If you aren’t concerned about needing to hunt meat, or shoot back when attacked, you wouldn’t have the firearms and ammo you do. But if your long guns are displayed in a gun case in the study, or you have discussed at length your most recent acquisition, or the two-inch spread you’re nailing at 300 yards (see Broadcasting Information, below), you might not have to worry about transporting all that ammo, because the weapon you plan to feed the rounds into might soon be gone.

In these desperate economic times, thieves are more bold and more active than ever. In February alone, scores of major newspapers have had featured articles with “Burglaries on the rise” in the headline, with some specifically reporting on the recent rash of daylight B&Es. For many reasons, this is a particularly poor time for you to appear theft-worthy.

Identity Theft

Financial crimes and credit scores won’t exist too long after the last National Guardsman helps himself to the remaining ammunition and flee for home. After an event in which survival is the primary objective, you won’t much care what your Equifax report says. The only noticeable inequalities then will be betwixt those with a plan and the tools to execute it, and everyone else.  But this is now, and you need two important tools to make the necessary preparations: time and money. Joining the ranks of identity theft victims will surely rob you of both, in short order.

A heavy dose of ID theft can easily leave you with an empty bank account, ruined credit, and the additional, unwelcome, and full-time job of proving that you didn’t buy a slew of college textbooks over the web, a membership to Girls Gone Wild, or made an enormous purchase at the Home Depot in Alabaster, Alabama.

This threat can severely hamper your plans, as the average time required to unwind all the red tape, and right your situation after identity thieves strike is a staggering 330 hours. How much solid prep work could you get done with well over a month of full, eight-hour workdays? And how much can your realistically do when all your credit cards have been canceled, your bank account is bare, and you have to devote most of your waking hours to proving you didn’t buy things?

The same knowledge that will help you avoid ever being victimized by ID theft will protect you from the other major privacy threats, as well.

Broadcasting Information

“Broadcasting information” is the biggest safety and security threat individuals face, and as a privacy consultant, it’s the most difficult point to drive home. This is the mistake that leads to almost all of the trouble. Of all the threats to the privacy seeker, most lead back to the propensity to over-share. This warrants repeating. Most victims of ID theft and other information-based dangers fall prey to the biggest privacy threat there is: themselves.

Even a little information in the wrong hands can have disastrous consequences, and the average person who would misuse what they know about you has more ammunition than you think. It’s time to take a cold, hard look at the information you are broadcasting about yourself and your family.

The problem is simple: you are sharing too much. The solution should be just as simple: shut up. But it isn’t.

If you’re like most people—even those with the most to lose, and who appear to understand the problem—you just can’t bring yourself to execute one of your few remaining rights: the right to remain silent.

So whom did you tell? Who did you talk to about your plans and your progress? Maybe the milestone of two full years of food for four was too exciting to keep to yourself. Or maybe your neck pain wasn’t quite as bad as you made out, and yet you filled that script every month for use in an apocalyptic future in which strong, opiate-based pain medication will surely trade better than gold, and are now in possession of roughly a thousand pills; an accomplishment too good not to share.

Can you really say that only your wife and postman know about the constant stream of deliveries to your house?

What about the five thousand rounds of .223 ammunition? The assortment of handguns? Are these all secrets? Probably not.

And so here you are, your plan, your stuff, your collection of exactly what you will need—a collection you’re sure you have neither the time nor the resources to replace before the defecation hits the oscillation—is gone. When the only evidence you ever had a plan are the drag marks across your driveway left by the feet of your high-end generator, and a few broken mason jars of pickles, dropped in the mad dash to fleece you while you were out, courtesy of the information you just had to share, it will be too late to make any important changes.

As you survey the wreckage of what assuredly evinced your post-apocalyptic survival, it becomes nauseatingly clear exactly what happened, and where the real fault lies. But one thing is fortunate: this happened before the event.

A worse problem for you and your family would have been the same scenario playing out later; roughly around the time the dollar was warming up for its final nose dive into an empty pool; a time when panic was on the horizon, speeding toward us; a time when the people your neighbor tipped off were reasonably sure of an event, too—and were maybe even in the midst of some planning and prepping of their own when, Alas, Babylon, the world came to an end and they turned pirate, knowing where the good stuff, and a bulk of it, resided.

Tough lessons are made even tougher when the timing couldn’t be worse. So it’s important to shut up about what you have, and why.

If you aren’t chatting strategy with a fellow prepper you trust implicitly, why are you telling anyone your business? In fact, before discussing anything with anyone you don’t know well, and trust more, ask yourself the tough question. Do the benefits to discussing your business really outweigh the potential danger? The answer is almost always a resounding no! Again, the biggest threat to your privacy is you.

In contrast to popular opinion, most crimes don’t just happen. Even the bulk of burglaries are committed by those looking for particular items, or who know something about their target. Successful privacy is not about only letting certain people see and hear about your cool toys, stash of gold and silver coins, it’s about keeping theses things to yourself. Sure, you trust your relatives and close friends, but how do you know they won’t share something that seems innocuous to them, with the wrong person?

Big Brother

The state hates you. Your very existence is seen as a de facto one-fingered salute, as the reality is that government is performing so poorly that they are likely to destroy everything. And, likewise, it is not an ill conjecture that you are not a big fan of government.

As you are likely aware, Big Brother likes to paint with a wide brush. And its bristles are heading your way. Federal agencies are warning local law enforcement about those who would dare harbor suspicion toward the one entity with a monopoly on the legal initiation of violence.  Whether through ignorance, or sheer despotism, government is lumping survivalists and those with the requisite audacity to show reverence to the Constitution in with domestic terrorists and white supremacists.

This should surprise no one who has been paying attention, as both government and its private sector cheerleaders are eager to “warn” the public about the dangers of survivalist and “patriot” groups. Organizations such as Morris Dees’ Southern Poverty Law Center, operators of Klan Watch—a subset org that has for years labored under the intensely stupid belief that the average prepper cans beans by day, and rides around at night in an ivory bed sheet, setting crosses ablaze—pretend to be about God’s business by listing as among those oh-so-subversive organizations: We are Change, the Constitution Party, and Oath Keepers, and any organized group with “survivalist” in their name.

There is no percentage in begging for your rights. But with your family’s survival on the line, it might be worth reviewing what organizations list you among their members, as the state is certainly not above harassing you, arresting you as an example to others, or buying into their own absurdity and declaring you a terrorist, at worst, or landing you on the no-fly list, at best.  Such complications are best avoided.

Those bothering to prepare for an uncertain future are often called crazy, paranoid, and an assortment of other pejoratives. This trend affords government the ability to “monitor” or “crack down” on particular groups without much public outcry, the unthinking masses clearly not recalling the timeless warning of Niemöller’s “First they came...”

Provided government chooses careful words and phrases, it is likely no one will care that the state is completely violating the Constitution, as well as their own laws when they decide you are worth investigating. As one who does not eagerly partake from the Kool Aid dispenser labeled “All is Well,” you might well see your life turned upside down.

The ruse will likely be that you have broken an obscure firearms law, or are part of “a militia.”  Perhaps an anonymous tipster assured some jack-booted federal agent that you’re flirting with terrorism, or have child pornography on your computer. God forbid you be a survivalist of Middle Eastern ethnicity.

This victimization can happen to anyone who fails to walk in lock-step with the sheeple. Of particular concern to you, however, is government targeting companies that provide materials to survivalists, seizing their computers and credit card records. You needn’t be guilty to be a victim of government force. But you needn’t be hiding anything, to have plenty to hide, either. As stated earlier, the fewer lists your name appears on, the better. And this goes double for customer lists of companies catering to survivalists, and fellow travelers.

To avoid this absurd abuse of power, pay cash for your supplies, whenever possible. And when it’s not, use a money order and an illegible signature. Delete any accounts you have on survivalist sites, particularly forums, and sign up again using an alternate name, and logging on each time through a foreign proxy server.

As a favorite tool of government is to pretend that innocent email conversations contain “subversive” comments, keep them out of your inbox (or at least prevent them from knowing who you are) by never using a hard email address (a static address supplied by your ISP).  Instead, always use a soft email address such as any number of free email offerings from Yahoo!, and other providers, never revealing your true name, age, or address when signing up.

As you have seen, some threats are particular to the survivalist or prepper, while others can simply make your plans that much more difficult to execute, not because you fit a certain demographic or description, but because in this fast-paced world, absent countermeasures, anyone can be victimized with their personal information.

There is a prevailing, and absolutely incorrect opinion that privacy is dead; a cute, quaint idea rendered absolutely impossible by the proliferation of the Internet, data mining companies, and the ever-connected nature of the modern world. There are more obstacles now, to be sure. But because most of the information that can be used against you is that which you yourself have provided, privacy and the security it brings is completely in your hands.

Be safe. Be smart. And weigh the good against the bad and the ugly outcomes of every conversation about yourself and your family before you have it. Privacy can be difficult, and it can be expensive. But can you afford the alternative?

Darin Williams is a privacy consultant, and former private investigator. He is the CEO of InfoShield Privacy Solutions, and writes from the American Southeast.

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NEVER, NEVER Surrender!!

By Anonymous, Commentary by Doug Bell

You may have seen the article going around the net called "NEVER, NEVER Surrender!!" by an anonymous writer. It is a very good over view of why you should never give up and let others control you, but it has a few problems that I hope to address here. I hope you enjoy this and get some use out of it, but thank "anonymous" for getting it started and doing the heavy lifting to which I am simply adding my mark.

While neither I nor "anonymous" are anti-police, they are on the forefront of the NWO's battle to take over America and are "just following orders" to keep their jobs, the same as the Gestapo, KGB, and other police agencies before them have done, with the same results. While the term of fighting to the “last man” is often thought of as being a heroic thing it is more often a just matter of choosing how one is willing to end his life while he has the opportunity to do so.

The Phases of Surrender:

The first phase of surrender is failing to be prepared, failing to be armed, trained and committed to fight. We are prepared to surrender when we are unprepared to resist. To resist, you need to be armed, more than armed, you need to be mentally prepared as well. If you have a firearm and refuse to use it, or value a criminals' life over your own or your families', then you have lost and they have won, pure and simple. All the weapons in the world will do you no good with out the commitment to fight. With the commitment to fight, anything can be your weapon.

The second phase of surrender is failing to be alert. You must see trouble coming in order to have time to respond. The warning may be less than one second but it will be there and it must be recognized and acted upon immediately. Jeff Cooper has his famous "color code", and that is fine, but the idea is to be aware of your surroundings, no matter what. With complacency comes danger.

The third and last phase of surrender is giving up your guns and your means of fighting back to the monsters who have taken control of your life and perhaps the lives of your loved ones. The last phase of surrender is out of your hands. Russia starved to death 20 million Soviet Georgians after WWII. On the direct orders of then General Eisenhower, one million German POWs were put in a bare field and starved to death. Most people would prefer to die fighting and trying to kill their oppressor, than be taken off to a death camp and starved to death. No matter who they are, the government, or possibly just "do-gooders" who want to control your life, no one knows what is in your best interest better than you do.

Surrender During War

During the American Revolution 12,000 Colonists captured by the British died in captivity on prison ships, while only 8,000 died in battle. Had the 12,000 who surrendered continued to fight many would have survived and they could have done great damage to the British and likely shortened the war. Civil War prisoners were treated so badly that some 50,000 died in captivity. More Americans have been killed by Americans than by any foreign army in any war. Six hundred eighteen thousand (618,000) Americans died in the Civil War.

As many as 18,000 captured American and Filipino prisoners died or were murdered at the hands of the Japanese during the six days of the "Bataan Death March." Had most of these soldiers slipped into the jungle and fought as guerrillas they could have tied up elements of the Japanese Army for months or years and perhaps more of them would have survived the war. Of the Americans who actually reached Japanese prison camps during the war, nearly 50,000 died in captivity. That is more than 10 percent of all the American military deaths in the entire war in both the Pacific and European theaters combined.

In addition to the 50,000 captured Americans who died in Japanese prison camps, an additional 20,000 were murdered before reaching a prison camp. If those 70,000 Americans had continued to fight, they could have provided time for the United States to build and maneuver its forces, perhaps shortening the war and saving even more lives. Some of them would have likely survived the war. If they had all died in battle their fate would have been no worse. My father fought in the Philippines and after liberating a Japanese prison camp, vowed never to be captured alive.

During the Vietnam conflict many American Prisoners Of War were tortured daily for years by the Communist North Vietnamese. Many Americans died during the process. Only Officers (Aviators) held in North Vietnam were ever repatriated. Enlisted Americans captured in South Vietnam were routinely tortured, mutilated and murdered by the Communists. As a combat soldier and knowing my fate should I be captured, I was committed to fighting to the death.

In recent years, American troops captured by Islamic terrorists groups have virtually all been tortured and murdered in gruesome fashion. If I were fighting in the Middle East, I would make a similar vow and plan to fight to the death. Under no circumstances would I allow myself to be captured by our Islamic enemies.

Death by Government

R.J. Rummel, who wrote the book, "Death by Government" states that prior to the 20th Century; 170 million civilians were murdered by their own governments, including the US and the UK. Historians tell us that during the 20th Century perhaps as many as 200 million civilians were murdered by their own governments. Some of the nations where the mass murder of civilians occurred during the 20th Century include Russia, Spain, Poland, Czechoslovakia, Congo, Uganda, Armenia, Vietnam, Cambodia, Nigeria, Laos, China, Cuba, Manchuria, Iraq, Iran, Turkey, Rwanda and many others. The slaughter of civilians by governments appears to be as common as not. Most of these slaughters were only made possible by disarming the victims before killing them. Had these people resisted, their fate would have been no worse and perhaps better. Resistance is much more difficult after the government has already taken the means of resistance away from the people. Planned genocide has been the primary reason for weapon confiscation throughout history.

William Ayers, former leader of the terrorist organization "The Weather Underground", and close friend of Barack Obama, told his followers in the Weather Underground, “When we (Communist revolutionaries) take over the United States, we will have to kill 25 million Americans.” He was referring to those who would never submit to a Communist takeover. Those who would refuse to deny and reject the Constitution would have to be murdered. If this sounds impossible, remember that genocide by Government was the leading cause of death in the last century."Fast and Furious" was an Obama plan to let US weapons into Mexico to claim that the US was the leading cause of guns in Mexico and ban gun sales in the US, to disarm the honest US gun owner.

Surrendering to Criminals

The courts in this country have ruled that the police have no legal obligation to protect anyone. Why do law enFORCEment officials always tell the public not to resist criminals, while they tell their officers to always resist and never surrender? The police, like all government agencies, derive their power by fostering dependence. In short, the police need criminals on the streets to further their agenda of control and power over a disarmed and helpless populous. The more crime, the more need for police, prisons, the easier it is to confiscate cars, money and other goods from honest, law abiding citizens, or to arrest and make criminal, people who have committed no crime other than failure to bow down to the NWO, love the Constitution or want to be left alone.

All of this has been detailed in many documents written by and sent to various government agencies and police departments. Anyone with a weeks' worth of food is now considered a terrorists in America.

According to Professor John Lott's study on the relationship between guns and crime, a victim who resists is less likely to be hurt or killed than a victim who cooperates with his attacker.

His book is titled "More Guns, Less Crime." We have heard brutalized victims say, "The robber said that he would not hurt us if we cooperated." Why would you believe anything that someone who is committing a crime against you says? He will be lying if he speaks. As we say here “If a cop's, politico's or other criminal's lips are moving while he is speaking, he is lying.”

This group, by definition, are dishonest and should never be trusted or be believed by anyone. Handing over your life by surrendering to someone who is in the process of committing a crime against you, violent or otherwise, is a form of suicide. Some survive but many do not. The monster gets to decide for you.

You have no doubt heard friends say, "I would not resist the government or other criminal, after all why would they harm me?" This is stupid and naive. These people are called “Victims by Choice” (VBC). There could be a long list of reasons why a criminal would kill you despite your cooperation. You may be of a different race, thus a different tribe. Only members of his tribe are actually human in his mind. He may feel hatred toward you because you have more than he does. Gratification from being in a position of total power is reason enough for some. You are now helpless with no means of control over yourself or what others can and will do to you.

Criminals are sometimes members of a Satanic cult who worship death such as the “Night Stalker” in California. Eliminating a potential witness is often cited as a reason to kill a victim. Sometimes criminals simply enjoy causing suffering and death. And, there are people who are in fact, pure evil.

Criminals have been known to say, “I killed just to watch them die.” A victim who begs for mercy can give his attacker a tremendous feeling of power which many criminals seem to enjoy. You cannot expect mercy from someone who does not know what mercy is.

Resist!

We each have a duty to ourselves, our loved ones, our neighbors, our community, our city, our state and our country to resist criminals, no matter if that is the government, the police, or some other group.

Reasoning with a thug who believes that his failures are because of people just like you is not likely to be helpful. Democrats always play the race/class envy card to generate hatred of others by these people. Pleading with a terrorist who has been taught from birth that his salvation depends on murdering people like you is a doomed plan. Resist! Resist!

His gun may not be real. After you are tied up it will not matter. His gun may not be loaded. After you are tied up it will not matter. He may not know how to operate his gun. After you are tied up it will not matter. Resist!

Statistically, if you run and your assailant shoots at you he will miss. Statistically, if you run and he shoots and hits you, you will not die. The police and other criminals miss 90 percent of the time.

The odds are on your side. Better to die fighting in place than to be tied to a chair and tazered to death or beaten to death in a cell. There are things worse than death. Surrender to a criminal or a terrorist and you will learn what they are. Resist!

If you resist with a commitment to win you may well prevail, especially if you are armed and trained. If you lose, it is still better to die fighting in place than to be taken prisoner and have your head cut off with a dull knife while your screams gurgle through your own blood as we have witnessed on numerous videos from the Middle East, brought to us by the “Islamic practitioners of peace".

Some who have Refused to Surrender.

History is filled with brave people who refused to surrender. Some of these men and woman have won their battles despite what seemed to be insurmountable odds. Others have gone down fighting and avoided being tortured to death. Some fought to the death to help or save others. Many have fought to the death for an idea or a belief.

When General Santa Ana (also the President of Mexico at the time) ordered 180 "Texacans" to surrender the Alamo, Col. Travis answered with “a cannon shot and a rebel yell.” Eventually General Santa Ana was able to build his troop strength to ten thousand. The Mexicans then swarmed the defenders and killed them all, including prisoners. The battle of the Alamo delayed the Mexican Army long enough for Sam Houston to build his Texacan Army, which met and defeated the Mexican Army and captured General Santa Ana. General Santa Ana traded Texas for his life and the sacrifices of the Alamo defenders changed history

On Sept 2, 2010, 40 armed criminals took over and robbed a train in India. Some of the robbers had guns, others used knives and clubs. When they began to disrobe an 18 year old girl for the purpose of gang raping her, one of the passengers decided to fight. He was a 35 year old retired Gurkha soldier. He drew his Khukasri knife and attacked the 40 robbers. He killed three of the robbers and wounded 8 more despite his being wounded in this 20 minute fight. The remaining criminals fled for their lives leaving their stolen loot and eleven comrades dead or wounded on the floor of the train. The eight wounded robbers were arrested.

How does one man defeat 40? How does he summon the courage to fight such odds? He utilized all of the Principles of Personal Defense: Alertness, Decisiveness, Aggressiveness, Speed, Coolness, Ruthlessness, and Surprise. He was skilled in the use of his weapon. Most importantly, he refused to be a victim and allow evil to triumph! If this one inspirational soldier can defeat 40 opponents using his knife, it would seem that we should all be able to defeat a group of armed criminals by using our firearms if we are professionally trained as was this heroic Gurkha soldier.

Final Thoughts

How will you respond if you are confronted by evil as some of us have been in the past and some of us will be in the future? If you have not decided ahead of time what you will do, you will likely do nothing. Those who fight back often win and survive. Those who surrender never win and often die a horrible death. Have you made your decision? Remember, no decision is a decision to do nothing.

The first step is getting a battle rifle and learning how to use it. If you need training on how to use it, the Appleseed Project can help. Contact them at www.rwva.org to find a shoot near you or to set one up.

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Product Spotlight

Bushnell H20 Compact Binoculars

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The Brunton ADC Summit Weather Meter

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The BlackHawk M7 Med Pack

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Guppie Multi-Tool

Adjustable wrench, knife, screwdriver, bottle opener, carry carabiner, removable bit carrier with LED light. The adjustable wrench jaw opens to 1/2" so you can use it for all kinds of light repair and assembly jobs. Thanks to the carabiner gate, it's easy to carry on a belt loop, D-ring, pack or rope. (But note: it's not a weight-bearing carabiner.) Includes a high carbon stainless steel blade with a Razor- Sharp edge that you can open and close it with one hand.

The removable bit carrier is also a high intensity LED light. It has two strong magnets to hold it securely to the left side. The stainless steel clip will hold the Multi-tool in your pocket or on gear, which provides a lot of versatility. It makes a great little money clip, too, for those who like to keep a thin wallet. One more trick: The carbine detent will open bottle caps and metal jar lids. Blade: 2"; Overall: 5"; Closed: 3.5"; Weight: 4.1 oz. Manufacturer: Self Defense Supply Retail Price: $37.99

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Table of Contents

Copyright

The Only True Currency in a Post-Collapse World

Homeschooling: A Family Matter

Building Your Survival Arsenal on Budget

Treating Gunshot Wounds Naturally

How to Build an Earthbag Survival Shelter

Home Distilling - The Spirit(s) of Self-Reliance

Collapse Medicine: A Stitch In Time – How to Suture Wounds - Part One

What I Have Learned About Greens and Wild Edibles

Surviving An EMP: (aka: Electro Magnetic Pulse

Built To Last

Survival Reloading Presses and Other Gear

2012: Do We Really Have One Year Left?

How to Build a Solar Still

How to Build Your Own Generator

The Reality of TEOTWAWKI and Strategies for Survival

Surviving Yourself: Privacy and Preparation

NEVER, NEVER Surrender!!

Product Spotlight