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about the publisher

and baking in par tic u lar, so when I was

told that I could no longer eat wheat in any form, I was taken aback. And the diet sheet I was given seemed calculated to bring on severe depression. Torn between outrage and laughter, I decided that if life had handed me a lemon, I was going to fight back. I’d cook it.

As anyone who is new to cooking without wheat or gluten soon discovers, it was a bit like exploring a foreign cuisine and using unfamiliar ingredients. However, being a food writer, I’m used to developing recipes, so I did have an advantage right out of the starting gate. Flours made from brown rice, quinoa, teff, chestnuts, almonds, and flax began to fill my freezer. Cakes, cookies, and tarts were no problem at all, and in fact often surpassed the originals made with wheat flour.

Gratifyingly, foodie friends and associates—knowledgeable cooks with critical palates—all chorused the same refrain: “Jackie, this is better than the wheat version. And lighter. Can I have the recipe?”

Bread was another matter, at least in the early days. Gluten- free flours lack structure: they don’t interact with leavening to create a light, airy loaf. The gluten- free bread one could buy was appalling, so I kept trying and finally hit upon the idea of returning to the small, round hearth breads of old. They have a crisp crust that contrasts with the soft interior, and being made with whole grains in true artisan style, they’re healthful as well as delicious. They are also very quick to stir together.

Day- to- day cooking doesn’t need all that much tweaking to make it gluten-free.

After all, it’s just as easy to thicken a comforting stew with rice flour or cornstarch as it is with all- purpose flour, and sautéed chicken breast tastes much better when coated with a mixture of ground hazelnuts and Parmesan than it ever did covered in stale boxed bread crumbs. I’ve included a cross- section of recipes for everyday cooking and weekend entertaining that everyone at the table can relish, whether they’re gluten- sensitive or not.

Cooking necessarily involves buying ingredients, and gluten- sensitive shoppers do have to become hawk- eyed label checkers. Wheat can turn up in the most unex-pected places, like soy sauce, so you’ll find a buyer’s guide on page 4. Be aware that

“wheat free” doesn’t necessarily mean gluten-free. Happily, new labeling laws now coming into effect are making gluten- free shopping easier every day, and some chains, like Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s, offer pamphlets listing literally hundreds of gluten- free groceries, from corn spaghetti to Japa nese tamari sauce.

There is a world beyond wheat, and a very rewarding one at that. I have thor-oughly enjoyed creating these recipes, and I hope that you—and your family and friends—will enjoy them too.

A wheat allergy and celiac disease are not the same thing. When a person has a wheat allergy, his or her immune system has an abnormal reaction to the proteins in wheat. Other major food allergens include eggs, corn, fish and shellfish, milk, peanuts, soy, and tree nuts.

When someone with celiac disease eats food containing gluten, part of the protein found in wheat, barley, and rye, it triggers an immune- system attack on the lining of the small intestine. The resultant damage, which prevents the body from absorbing nutrients properly, can lead to diarrhea, fatigue, nausea and weight loss, and of course, malnutrition. Many health professionals believe that untreated celiac disease—which often has no symptoms—can lead to osteoporosis, anemia, infertility, and cancer. A related condition, dermatitis herpetiformis, causes a distinctive weepy, itchy rash that frequently appears on the hands, behind the knees, and inside the elbows. Unfortunately, a dermatologist will rarely suggest that it might be caused by something you ate.

Up until quite recently, it took an average of eleven years to get a correct diagnosis for celiac disease, partly because symptoms vary so much among individuals, and because it was thought to be a childhood ailment rarely seen in America.

That point of view is changing. It is now estimated that celiac disease affects 0.5

percent to 1 percent of the U.S. population, or between 1.5 million to 3 million Americans. (In Finland, it’s 2 percent of the population; in Italy, 1.2 percent and in northern Ireland, .09 percent.) Diagnosis is often difficult, as the symptoms can mimic other conditions such as Crohn’s disease, or be ascribed to irritable bowel syndrome. Blood tests can reveal celiac- related antibodies, but an intestinal bi-opsy is usually needed.

Celiac disease is hereditary, though not all children of a parent with the disease will test positive. As with a food allergy, there is no cure other than avoiding the offending substance, at least so far. Still, this beats taking drugs with unknown long- term side effects.

Although those of us with a wheat allergy or celiac disease must be vigilant about what we buy and eat, we don’t have to forgo favorites like pasta, bread, and cake. We can still eat well and entertain family and friends at the table, perhaps even better and more healthfully than ever before.

Dining out also requires caution. Generous friends and relations who want to cook for you but are uncertain about the, um, gustatory limitations are no problem—just give them a copy of this book! Fast- food chains are generally off-limits, as the majority of their offerings involve wheat in one form or another. In any case, the food tends to arrive in those kitchens prepacked, and the staff has no idea what’s actually in it. But here too, government regulations that demand full disclosure are starting to come into effect. All those people diagnosed with celiac disease, plus millions of others with various food allergies, do have a certain amount of clout.

As celiac disease becomes better known among the general public, even chains are starting to offer gluten- free specials. You’ll find that the waiters in established restaurants are generally most helpful if you ask their advice about the menu, ex-plaining with regret that you can’t eat anything containing wheat flour in the sauce (or dusted on before browning), bread crumbs, croutons, or pasta. Chefs are nurturing people by nature, and will usually make a big effort to take care of you—and gain a happy repeat customer.

there’s a

whole cornucopia of

gluten- free grains, seeds, and nuts out there that have been cultivated since the dawn of civilization. Rice sustains more than half of the world’s population, and along with corn is the most obvious and useful alternative to wheat. In addition, there’s South American amaranth and quinoa, East African teff, Asian millet (revered by the ancient Chinese as one of their Five Sacred Grains and the most widely used grain in India today), and northern Eu ro pe an buckwheat, which isn’t wheat at all but botani-cally related to rhubarb. Nuts such as walnuts, almonds, pecans, and chestnuts make wonderful flour, as do dried beans. Even cocoa can be utilized as a form of flour.

I can’t claim that this is a comprehensive list, but it does include those ingredients most readily available in the United States. Some grains are best when used whole in pilafs, others shine when ground into flour and used for baking, and most are good both ways. Nearly all of them are utilized as whole-grain flours, with all their nutrients intact, and provide healthful complex carbohydrates and fiber as well as good flavors.

As a general rule, it’s best to buy nuts and gluten- free flours in small quantities and store them in the freezer or refrigerator. Being completely natural, they contain no preservatives or other dubious additions. It’s advisable to buy gluten- free flours that have been prepackaged in a dedicated facility. Open bins in natural foods stores can be cross- contaminated by other customers using a scoop from a neighboring bin containing, say, whole wheat flour.

In your own kitchen, keep any gluten- containing products strictly segregated, and don’t share hard- to- clean items like a toaster, or let anyone put gluten- free bread or crackers on the same platter with those made from wheat. Even the tiny amount of gluten present in a few bread crumbs can cause trouble for celiacs.

You can grind your own flours from gluten- free whole grains, but it may be more trouble than it’s worth. I have an electronic grain mill, which makes more noise than the Concorde taking off. It used to send my late- lamented cat flying from the kitchen with her fur standing on end. It does a good job, but wafts flour over every surface. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding things other than coffee is useful for reducing small quantities of flaxeeds or nuts to flour. A food pro cessor simply whirls the former about, and tends to make nut paste from the latter unless you add rice flour or sugar. I don’t blend my own supposedly all-purpose flour mix, as most breads, cookies, tart shells, and cakes require different ratios of gluten- free flours to be at their best.

Ground from whole almonds with the bran intact, this mellow, off- white flour is invaluable for cakes and cookies. It is available ready ground, but unless you can find a source with a high turnover—to ensure freshness—and reasonable prices (Trader Joe’s is a good source), it’s best to grind your own. An electric coffee mill reserved for grinding items other than coffee works pretty well. If you use a food pro cessor, combining whole almonds with a little rice flour or sugar, subtracted from the other ingredients listed in a recipe, helps to prevent turning the nuts into paste by mistake. Incidentally, 1 cup of whole almonds weighs 4 ounces. One cup of ready- ground almond meal weighs approximately 3 ounces.

A tiny round grain known as the “mother grain” in the Inca empire, Amaranthus caudatus is not a true cereal, although it’s used like one. High in protein, calcium, iron, and fiber, the whole grains cook in 15 minutes or less.

Derived from the rhizomes of various tropical plants and generally used in North America as a thickener, this cornstarch- like product gives a glossy finish to sauces.

Be cautious about utilizing it in cookie doughs, as too much will turn the baked cookies into cement.

The all- purpose work horse of the gluten- free kitchen, flour milled from brown rice is mellow in flavor, nutritious, and generally invaluable. White rice flour (not to be confused with Asian rice flour, a silky powder) is milled from hulled rice.

When used in baking, both brown rice flour and white rice flour are usually combined with cornstarch, potato starch, or tapioca starch to counteract their slightly coarse texture.

Not wheat at all but a relative of rhubarb (the name is derived from the Dutch bockweit, as these triangular seeds were thought to resemble beech nuts), buckwheat is a hardy plant that manages to flourish in poor soils and inhospitable climates. Famously used in Russian blini (pancakes) and Japa nese soba noodles, buckwheat flour is excellent in rustic flatbreads. The whole grains or groats are made into kasha, a dish that corresponds to an Arabic pilaf or an Italian risotto.

The Eu ro pe an chestnut, Castanea sativa, contains more starch and far less oil than any other tree nut, and makes a sweet- tasting flour. Once used by poor peasants in rural Italy for making hearth breads and polenta, it’s more of a luxury food today. Whole chestnuts can serve as a starchy vegetable or a stuffing ingredient, or be turned into delicious desserts. They are available fresh, canned, frozen, vacuum-packed, and candied. For more information on chestnuts, see page 102.

Ground from dried chickpeas, or garbanzo beans as they are also known, chickpea flour has a distinctive but pleasant flavor, making it a good candidate for breads but not cakes. Universally pop u lar Middle Eastern dishes like hummus and falafel are based on chickpeas, and the cuisine of India would be poorer without them. Garfava flour is a proprietary blend of garbanzo and fava bean flour.

Chocolate is derived from the seeds of cacao trees cultivated mainly in Latin America, West Africa, Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Ca rib be an. Depending on where they’re grown, cacao beans, like coffee beans, have distinct flavor characteristics: fruity, floral, and so on. After harvesting, the beans undergo fermenta-tion, when they start to develop their unique flavors, and are then dried and graded. Chocolate manufacturers roast and hull the beans to free the meat, or nibs. These nibs are ground into chocolate liquor, a thick, nonalcoholic paste of cacao butter, a form of vegetable fat, and vegetable solids. Unsweetened chocolate is essentially solidified chocolate liquor with a high percentage of cacao butter.

Bittersweet, semisweet, and milk chocolate contain increasing amounts of sugar, so the percentage of cacao butter decreases accordingly. White chocolate is cacao butter (often mixed with some other, cheaper fat) mixed with lots of sugar, milk solids, and vanilla, and tastes of dried milk powder. Dark chocolate and chocolate chips with at least 60 percent cacao butter are the best choice for baking—and eating—for their rich flavor and silky smoothness. Ghirardelli’s 60 percent dark chocolate is an excellent buy, the thin bars are easy to chop and melt, and both the chocolate and Ghirardelli’s 60 percent chocolate chips give first-rate results in baking.

Cocoa powder is made when chocolate liquor is pressed to extract about three- quarters of its cacao butter. (The correct spelling got mangled years ago.) The remaining solids are made into unsweetened cocoa powder, either natural or Dutch- pro cessed. Natural unsweetened cocoa powder gives a deep, intense chocolate flavor to baked goods, and is the form I prefer. Good brands include Her-shey’s, Ghirardelli, and Scharffen Berger. Dutch- pro cessed unsweetened cocoa is treated with an alkali to neutralize its natural acidity, has a more delicate flavor, and dissolves easily in liquids. Valrhona and Droste are two excellent brands.

Both natural and Dutch- pro cessed cocoa make good gluten- free baking ingredients.

Corn, more often known outside the United States as maize, is actually a kind of grass with huge seed heads, or cobs. Fresh sweet corn in season is a treat; popcorn is a perennial favorite as a snack; cornmeal remains an integral part of American cooking in the form of corn bread, grits, and tortillas; and Italian polenta has now become pop u lar. Eating corn with beans creates a complementary mix of amino acids that raises the protein value. If possible, avoid labels that say “degerminated” when buying corn products; you want the whole grain. When used as a thickener for sauces, silky white cornstarch gives a glossy finish. Particularly useful in baking, it helps to smooth out the slightly coarse texture of many gluten- free flours, but like its fellow starches, has little or no nutritional value. Cornstarch is generally interchangeable with potato starch and Asian rice flour/sweet white rice flour in baking.

According to nutritionists, flaxseeds are one of most nutritious plant foods on the planet. They contain more heart- healthy omega- 3 oil than fish and more fiber than oats, and have a pleasantly nutty, grassy flavor. You can grind your own using an electric coffee mill (a food processor just spins them around, as the outer coating is extremely hard), or buy preground flaxmeal and store it in the freezer. Flaxmeal can lend suppleness as well as goodness to gluten-free breads, as it’s high in flax oil. However, as always, consult your physician and nutritionist for their views about the nutritional and medical value of any so-called super food. See page 142

for more information about flaxseeds.

See Chickpea Flour.

See Chickpea Flour.

One of the few dried pulses that don’t have to be soaked before cooking, brown, green and black lentils cook in about 35 minutes and make a tasty side dish. The little red ones are best for soup, as they quickly disintegrate. Various kinds of lentil flour are much used in India for making poppadums, those crispy wafers that complement curries so well. (Imported poppadums are available, but read the label to make sure they are gluten- free.) Lentil flour is good in flatbreads, and lentil flour “riso” makes a welcome addition to hearty soups.

See Tapioca Starch.

One of the first grains to be cultivated by man, perhaps 12,000 years ago, nutritious millet contains almost 15 percent protein. The leading staple grain in India, it is also pop u lar in China, South America, Russia, and the Himalayas. It has a mellow, nutty flavor and cooks in just 15 minutes, but few people in North America are familiar with it. Much too good to reserve for birdseed, millet makes an excellent pilaf or grain salad, especially when toasted before cooking to bring out its delicate flavor. It also makes a good hot breakfast cereal with raisins and honey.

Use the flour mixed with other gluten- free flours in breads and muffins.

Developed in Montana from Indian lovegrass, a hardy native plant that thrives in poor soils, this high protein grain yields good flour for gluten-free baking.

A store house of vitamins, minerals, and fiber as well as being good to eat at any time, almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, and walnuts make luxurious gluten- free flours.

True, most nuts are also high in oil, but it’s the heart- healthy, mono- or poly-unsaturated kind. When nuts are ground, the flavorful oil content can take the place of butter in baking; just as the starchy part stands in for flour. Nutrient- rich peanuts are not true nuts but legumes.

Oats do not contain gluten, despite long- standing claims to the contrary. Oats, how-ever, are particularly subject to cross- contamination by other grains in the field, or during the milling and packing pro cess in a plant that also handles other grains. In a recent newsletter published by the Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University, readers were advised that multiple studies in Eu rope and the United States show that the majority of people with celiac disease tolerate oats. Reliably gluten- free oats are available by mail order from the Gluten- Free Oats Company in Powell, Wyo-ming, and Cream Hill Estates in La Salle, Quebec (see pages 211–12). Aside from the fact that oatmeal tastes delicious, scientific studies have shown that oats contain a special form of fiber, beta- glucan, found to be effective in lowering LDL cholesterol.

This is a heavy, strongly flavored flour sometimes added to bread in small amounts.

Don’t confuse it with potato starch, which is far more useful.

A silky white starch with a texture like talcum powder that’s useful as a thickener, potato starch is interchangeable with cornstarch and Asian rice flour/sweet white rice flour for smoothing out the slightly coarse texture of whole- grain brown rice flour.

Along with amaranth, high- protein quinoa helped to sustain the vast Inca empire before the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, who banned its cultivation for reli-gious and po liti cal reasons. Botanically related to Swiss chard and beets, the whole grains make excellent pilafs and hearty salads; the flour—used in conjunction with other gluten- free flours—is good in breads. Quinoa flakes make a mellow, high-protein addition to homemade muesli, stuffings, and meat loaves, and can be cooked like oatmeal. Most quinoa must be rinsed before cooking to remove the residue of bitter saponins, the plant’s defense against insects.

Rice, Oryza sativa, sustains more than half of the world’s population. There are hundreds of varieties, but all of them fall into two main camps: Indica rice, which is dry and separate, and Vaponica rice, which sticks together. The former is fluffier when cooked (think of pilaf); the latter contains more starch and is generally gummier and creamier (think of creamy risotto or rice pudding.) Whole, or brown, rice contains complex carbohydrates, thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, phosphorus, iron, potassium, and fiber. White rice is refined, with the germ and bran removed. In the United States, most refined white rice found on grocery shelves is enriched with at least some of the nutrients lost during pro cessing, but not the fiber. Converted rice is par-boiled before refining, a pro cess that forces some of the B vitamins into the endo-sperm so they are not lost when the bran is polished off, but it’s still not as healthful as brown rice. Some round- grain rice varieties, like Italian Arborio and Spanish Calasparra, are especially good for absorbing flavorful broths during cooking while simultaneously retaining their shape. All kinds of rice are gluten- free, from Uncle Ben’s to the exotic ones like Bhutanese red rice and Japa nese black rice. Glutinous rice, spelled with an “i,” is another term for sticky rice. It does not contain gluten.

Not the same product as rice flour milled from brown or white rice, silky white rice starch is interchangeable with cornstarch as a thickener, and as a mixer in gluten- free baking.

A hardy, gluten- free mild- tasting grain believed to have originated in Africa, sorghum can be utilized like oatmeal, and is available as flour.

Like most bean flours, yellow soy flour has a pronounced flavor. A cheap source of protein, it is used extensively in the food industry in everything from frozen desserts to meat loaf. A small amount can be used in gluten- free breads, but it makes them dense.

Milled from glutinous or sticky white rice, this neutral- tasting (not sweet) starch has a slightly sticky quality that can be handy for baking when used in combination with other gluten- free flours, as it helps to retain moisture.

A favorite for bread baking when combined with other gluten- free flours, tapioca starch lends a chewy, slightly elastic quality. Also known as cassava or manioc and derived from a root, the whole “pearls” and granulated tapioca can be made into a milk- based pudding.

Tiny, highly nutritious teff, the staple grain of Ethiopia and Eritrea, is now cultivated successfully in the United States. Available as ivory or brownish flour at some natural foods stores and by mail order, teff flour has a sweet, molasseslike flavor and makes exceptional gluten- free brownies, cookies, and gingerbread. It can also be cooked like porridge for breakfast. A form of millet, it contains over twice the iron of other grains and twenty times the calcium: one cup of cooked teff contains more calcium (387 mg) than a cup of milk.

This is not a true rice at all, but the long, dark brown, slightly smoky- flavored seed of an aquatic grass indigenous to the Great Lakes region. A luxury food that is usually blended with other types of rice because of its high price and assertive though delicious flavor, wild rice has twice the protein and fiber of brown rice, but not as much iron and calcium.

Derived from corn sugar, this white powder looks a lot like baking powder and is used in similar amounts, so an admittedly rather costly 8- ounce bag goes a long way. Invaluable in gluten- free bread baking, it provides elasticity and helps to prevent dryness and crumbling. A very small quantity also benefits shortcrust pastry and some cakes and cookies, which can otherwise be too fragile. It can be found in natural foods stores, including Whole Foods, some supermarkets, and on the Web via sources such as Bob’s Red Mill, and it keeps at room temperature.

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toast, bagels, and

doughnuts on the average American morning menu, going wheat-free sounds difficult, if not impossible. In fact, breakfast bars and muffins made with alternative grains are delicious, not to mention good for your health. Rice Flour En glish Muffins (page 135) freeze well and can be thawed and toasted whenever you please; toasty homemade muesli is another option. A weekend brunch, when there’s time to linger, can include indulgences like pancakes, warm apple crumble, or an almond flour coffee cake like Grandma never made.

19

makes exception-

ally tender pancakes, and cooking them on an un-greased nonstick griddle ensures a fine surface texture. It also prevents the aroma of burned butter from permeating your kitchen. The recipe can be doubled easily.

21

made with wheat

flour, which has to stand for a while to let the gluten relax, this one can be used immediately. Quick to make and extremely versatile, crêpes can contain savory or sweet fillings, from Italian beef ragù (page 73) to applesauce. They can be made

ahead and refrigerated or frozen.

23

not much dif-

ference between the average American muffin

and a British cupcake. These muffins are of the more restrained plain variety, and are delicious with butter and marmalade. Like all muffins, they should be served warm. By the way, aluminum foil muffin cups will stand unaided on a baking sheet, and baked muffins don’t stick to them.

in

Switzerland about a century ago by Dr. Max

Bircher-

Benner, who served soaked raw oat

flakes, nuts, and grated apple to patients at his natural health clinic in Zu rich. A dear German friend, Inge Roberts, introduced me to her more luxurious version. She uses oats (see page 13 for more information on their

gluten-

free status);

toasted quinoa flakes taste equally good. The recipe can be multiplied ad infinitum.

25

to my nearest and

dearest, these nutritious bars are addictive. Like the Gingerbread- Flax Bars that follow, they freeze well and make excellent brown-bag fare.

commercially made breakfast bars, these bar

cookies are reminiscent of French pain d’ épice, or spice bread. Wrap them individually and freeze

for breakfasts on the run.

27

a

surprise—and always popular—appearance on a

brunch table. Slicing the apples extra thin and tossing them in a little rice flour and sugar promotes an ideal texture. Start the crumble early: it has to cool down a bit before you serve it. Accompany with Honeyed Yogurt (page 29) or whipped

cream.

t o p p i n g

29

one loaf cake

or a dozen tender muffins that can be frozen and reheated. It’s best to buy poppy seeds in bulk at a natural foods store and keep them in the freezer, where they won’t go stale or rancid. Buying them in little glass spice bottles is surprisingly expensive.

31

in the world. They

are now referred to, by the Sunsweet growers in California at any rate, as dried plums. What ever you choose to call them, prunes are generously en-dowed with fiber and potassium, and they make

this rich- tasting but butterless cake moist and naturally sweet.

33

consider the egg. Perfectly packaged by Mother Nature, eggs will keep refrigerated for a month after the lay date, they’re rich in protein and vitamins, and they team beautifully with cheese. All cheeses are gluten-free (except pro cessed cheese, which can have all kinds of odd ingredients), with Parmigiano- Reggiano, cave- aged Swiss Gruyère, and sharp Cheddar topping my list of favorites for cooking.

lots of fla-

vor and is a great standby when there’s no time for grocery shopping. Crispy imported Indian

lentil flour poppadums make the perfect foil, and can be heated and puffed in a microwave oven.

(They are traditionally gluten- free, but check the label.) Look for aromatic cardamom seeds in the spice department of a supermarket or natural

foods store. They come encased in white or green pods.

37

pota-

toes for this creamy omelet, which can be tossed together in a few minutes. The skillet bread on page 143 and a green salad go well here.

39

these

savory puffs are crisp on the outside with a soft, almost hollow interior. Based on gougère, a traditional Burgundian snack, this gluten- free version makes an appetizing accompaniment to a glass of wine, and the puffs are delicious served in lieu of bread with a salad. It’s easiest and quickest to form the puffs with a cone- shaped pastry bag, but you can also use two spoons.

41

on a pre-

heated baking sheet not only gets the pastry off to a good start, but catches any errant spills. Serve warm as a first course. Be patient when cooking the onions: they have to simmer until they practi-cally melt, but the wait is worth it.

43

vegetarian frittata

hot, warm, or cold for lunch or supper, or as an appetizer with a glass of wine. It’s also perfect for a potluck party: it travels well. You’ll need leftover potatoes to make this dish—boiled or baked work equally well—or you can stir in pecans for a crunchy contrast. Almost any cheese, including

Cheddar or crumbled feta, works well.

reputation for being difficult to make before the days of electric mixers and ovens with thermo-stats. Actually they are very easy to produce; the only caveat is that diners must wait for the soufflé, not the other way round, as it does fall quickly. This version uses rice flour in the basic mixture.

45

—from asparagus to zucchini—are

gluten-free, but grains are another matter. For the gluten- sensitive, wheat, barley, and rye must be avoided like the Titanic with another chance. Still, other interesting choices vie for the cook’s attention, and the wider the selection of vegetables and whole grains you use, the better for everybody’s general health. Dried beans, lentils, corn, and rice are familiar staples, but quinoa and millet can make fans out of the most suspicious diner when offered as a pilaf or grain salad.

corn kernels for

these crispy, Asian- style fritters, which make a savory appetizer or a light lunch with salad greens.

Some brands of tamari sauce are wheat- free, as is Thai fish sauce, but check the labels to make sure.

49

appetizer or side dish that

cooks in 5 minutes. Long, slender purple or lavender Japa nese eggplants can be substituted; like zucchini, their skins are so tender that they don’t need peeling. Either one makes first-rate finger food with a glass of wine.

don’t

need soaking before you cook them. For my

money, green lentils have by far the best texture; brown ones can be floury when cooked, and tiny

red lentils turn to mush the moment your back is turned (they’re good in soup, though). As with

cooked quinoa, any leftovers can be turned into an excellent grain salad by adding a splash of

wine vinegar and more olive oil.

51

rice but much

higher in nutrients, quinoa cooks in just 15 minutes. It has a mellow flavor and a texture some-what like caviar: there’s a pleasant little pop to it between your teeth. The seeds grow in a multitude of colors, including white, yellow, pink, red, black, and orange, but the two you’re most likely to find in the United States are light yellow and red.

53

traditional

grain for tabbouleh, is off- limits to those who can’t eat wheat. Quinoa is the perfect substitute for bulgur. This “tabbouleh” keeps for two or three days refrigerated, and the grains do not harden when chilled. To make a complete summer meal,

add cooked shrimp.

55

millet

long before the arrival of corn or rice. Nutritious, quick-cooking, and

gluten-

free, it has a nutty,

gentle flavor and a texture much like that of rice when cooked. Millet can be found in natural

foods stores.

the Five Sacred

Grains in ancient China, millet is a mellow- tasting, healthful whole grain that’s almost unknown in the United States except as birdseed. It can be used just like rice as a side dish, and makes an excellent addition to hearty soups.

57

of northern Italian

cuisine, risotto is really best made at home, not in a restaurant. It takes only about 25 minutes to cook, a soothing ritual that involves slowly adding broth to simmering Arborio rice, preferably sipping the same

wine—maybe a Pinot Grigio

delle Venezie—that goes into the dish. Round- grain Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano rice is a

must, as these highly similar varieties absorb

broth without losing their shape and turn beautifully creamy. Long- grain white rice, which has a different starch content, would fall apart if cooked this way.

59

richness to this flavorful risotto. To prevent the portobello mushrooms from staining the rice

brown, remove the dark brown gills under the

caps.

61

homemade stuffed grape vine leaves are nothing

like the stodgy canned variety. A quart jar of

grape leaves contains two rolled- up wads of about 40 leaves each; freeze one wad, enclosed in plastic wrap, to use another day.

63

works as a vegetarian main course, an ap-

petizer, or a side dish that’s especially good with lamb.

of

paella makes an intriguing change from the more familiar Barcelona version with chicken and seafood. Be sure to use round- grain Spanish or Italian rice here; long- grain white rice turns to mush.

The sliced tomatoes on top give it a finished look as well as a fresh taste, and the golden fried potatoes, perhaps surprisingly, add great texture and flavor. Old Spanish recipes start with about half a pound of fresh lard; I use olive oil instead. An in-expensive, two- handled, 16-cup aluminum paella pan about 14 inches across adds to the pre sen tation (and makes a useful

all-

purpose roasting

pan), but dividing the ingredients between two

large skillets also works.

65

dish all over the world.

Fortunately for the gluten- intolerant, quite a few of the classic dried forms, including spaghetti, fettuccine, spirals, shells, elbows, and lasagne, are now made from brown rice flour, corn, or quinoa. They are all mellow in flavor and cook in about the same length of time as wheat pasta. Different brands have slightly different textures, so keep trying until you find a favorite; I like both De Boles and Mrs. Leeper’s pasta. You can also make your own fresh egg pasta from rice flour, which cooks in just 2 or 3 minutes. Traditional Asian rice noodles and mung bean noodles, which are marvelous for absorbing flavorful sauces, are

gluten-

free, cook in a flash, and can be found in many large supermarkets.

served with a sauce of pancetta and raw eggs, which are cooked, more or less, by the heat of the pasta. I don’t fancy the idea of salmonella poisoning, so I use Eggbeaters instead. Made from 99 percent egg

whites, this product is sterilized and perfectly safe.

Again, it’s not traditional, but the food police won’t take you away if you add a handful of frozen peas to the boiling pasta water. Their sweetness makes the perfect foil for the pancetta and Parmesan.

69

savory, simple, and is

easy to double. You can substitute coarsely

chopped spinach for the arugula if you like.

dish for spring, when lo-

cal asparagus starts appearing in the markets or your garden, should you be so lucky. Cook the asparagus until tender; it should be about the same consistency as the cooked pasta.

71

that needs

to be homemade before it can become the stuff of which fond memories are made. Rice or quinoa

pasta elbows work equally well.

are filled

r a g ù

with a savory meat mixture but not blanketed

with the usual flour- based béchamel or tomato sauce. The ragù recipe makes about 6 cups; freeze the remainder for serving with gluten- free pasta, mixed with ricotta, cooked spinach, or lightly

cooked tomato to loosen it a bit. Time permitting, make the ragù a day ahead so that the flavors can develop.

73

t o a s s e m b l e

will elicit awe

and admiration (unless, of course, you have an

Italian grandmother), but it’s really easy using rice flour, as the pasta dough doesn’t resist being rolled out. It can be cut into any width you like: 1 ⁄4 inch wide for fettuccine, 1⁄2 inch wide for pap-pardelle, or 2 inches wide for lasagne. The recipe makes two 12 10- inch sheets of silky pasta, weighing about 4 ounces each, and can be doubled. As with all fresh pasta, it cooks in just 2 or 3

minutes.

75

are

uniquely satisfying to eat. Maybe it’s their slurpi-ness. Pappardelle are usually served con lepre—with hare sauce—but you can serve this pasta with a rich and chunky mushroom sauce instead. Grated

Parmesan would be superfluous here.

77

s e a s o n i n g s a u c e

dried Asian

rice stick noodles can be found in many large

super markets, along with condiments like bean

sauce and oyster sauce, which are off- limits as they contain wheat. Here I’ve teamed stick noodles with pork with asparagus, but shrimp and

snow peas or chicken breast with broccoli work

well with the same seasoning sauce. As a wok

doesn’t get hot enough on a regular stovetop, I use a large sauté pan for better heat contact. Stir the sauce ingredients together first.

79

tiny dumplings can

be served as a side dish with braised meat or chicken, or eaten like pasta with the addition of grated Parmigiano- Reggiano. If you don’t have a spaetzle press, which looks a bit like a flat grater with a movable carriage that slides back and forth, use a colander with 1⁄4- inch wide holes and a rub-ber spatula instead. For a different flavor, replace the buckwheat flour with chestnut or teff flour.

81

delighted to

discover that chicken does not have to be limited to the plain roasted kind. A delicious breading mixture made from ground nuts and Parmesan adds new savor to sautéed breast meat, and whole birds can be flattened and then plumped under the skin with a tasty mushroom stuffing. The holiday bird benefits from a new, meatier, gluten- free dressing, and the accompanying gravy is just as good when thickened with rice flour or cornstarch and livened up with Spanish sherry.

fast

food, slices of tender chicken breast have a light, crispy coating that’s full of flavor. The recipe can, of course, be doubled; but use two pans or the

cutlets will steam instead of brown. They should not touch each other as they cook. If you can’t find hazelnut meal, make it yourself by grinding hazelnuts in an electric coffee mill reserved for grinding spices and other items; a food pro cessor tends to make nut paste rather than flour.

85

French country

recipe for turning a tough old cockerel into something worthwhile, this lighter version of coq au vin substitutes the succulent thigh meat of young chickens and white wine for an old bird and red wine. The sauce is thickened with a little cornstarch, and the dish takes far less time to cook.

Serve with quinoa or long- grain white rice.

87

meat loaf be-

comes a pâté when cold, and will keep refriger-

ated for three days. Serve hot with a marinara

sauce, or cold with salad greens. The secret

ingredient—quinoa flakes—promotes a smooth

texture, and

paper-

thin zucchini slices, rather

than fat, keep it moist. Vacuum-packed prosciutto is the best choice here, as the slices are large and uniform and are separated by paper sheets for

easy handling.

89

North African

couscous, a savory dish of semolina grains steamed over a savory chicken or lamb and vegetable stew, quinoa replaces the wheat couscous. The traditional accompaniment for couscous is an incendi-ary condiment called harissa. Make it first.

91

g a r n i s h

93

chickens on bread soaked in wine and hydromel,

a kind of liquor made with fermented honey. The s t u f f i n g

birds gorged themselves silly, attained an enor-mous weight, and were reputed to taste exquisite.

Not having any chickens or mead with which to

practice, I can’t vouch for the Roman method, but I can recommend enhancing a regular chicken’s

size and flavor by stuffing it under the skin. To make the savory stuffing, you will need bread

crumbs made from day- old Quick White Rice

Flour Flatbread (page 133).

95

un-

der the skin with a mixture of onion, parsley,

lemon, and rice flour bread crumbs makes them

look and taste special, and they can be prepared several hours ahead of baking. A pilaf made with rice, millet, or quinoa goes well here.

97

simple ingredients into an outstanding dish. Serve with Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread (page

133) or basmati rice for taking up the sauce.

game soup in taste

and texture, this velvety chestnut soup contains chunks of juicy,

just-

cooked-

through chicken

rather than the more usual croutons. It makes a spectacular first course for a fall or winter dinner party. Canned chestnut purée is very dense, so it helps to chop it before adding to the soup.

99

originated in

southern France, where wild herbs grow in profu-sion on sunny hillsides. You can buy imported

dried Herbes de Provence blends, but making

your own fresh blend gives even more aromatic

results. Dried lavender for culinary use is available at natural foods stores.

101

to eating very young

chickens that the taste and texture of a properly raised mature one comes as a delicious surprise.

A capon is simply a neutered chicken, fattened

slowly until it reaches a majestic size and has developed some real flavor. You can order one from a butcher, or from the meat department of a store such as Whole Foods, but if that’s not an option, buy a big, free- range roasting chicken instead. As with turkey, hallowed additions such as fluffy

mashed potatoes and cranberry sauce complete

the picture.

103

upstages the holi-

day bird, this rich and savory dressing is baked in a casserole, since stuffing cooked inside the cavity absorbs a huge amount of rendered poultry fat. If you prefer a moist texture to a crumbly one, just add more chicken broth. Remember

to make gluten- free bread for the bread crumbs ahead of time. Pine nuts can be used in lieu of chestnuts if you prefer, or if chestnuts are hard to find.

105

remove the back-

bone and tiresome little rib bones from a game

hen, which makes it much easier to eat. Or ask your butcher to do it. Use very small tomatoes, as the skins on regular cherry tomatoes are too

tough for this preparation. Trilogy rice blend (a mixture of white, brown, and wild rice) can be

found in natural foods stores.

107

a flavorful, juicy red meat, similar in taste and texture to beef, but 90 percent

fat-

free, which

makes it lower in cholesterol and calories than all other poultry and meats, including venison. And there’s no such thing as Angry Ostrich Disease.

Like other very lean meats, it’s best cooked briefly.

Dusting the patties with rice flour helps the

browning pro cess and gives a good surface tex-

ture. Ground ostrich meat is available frozen from upscale food markets such as Whole Foods.

109

short ribs and

meat loaf don’t require much tweaking to make them gluten- free, and no one ever notices the difference if a rack of lamb with a herbed crumb crust is made with rice flour bread crumbs rather than the wheat-bread kind. Fish dishes, too, are easy. In fact, simple panfried fish fillets taste better than usual when dusted with white rice

flour before sautéing. As

it contains no gluten, the

flour

doesn’t become

gluey, and it imparts a

crisper surface texture.

Quinoa goes especially

well with fish and seafood,

as does rice.

dish, seared bone-

less pork chops finish cooking in the oven on a bed of buttery, herb- scented polenta. If you like, you can substitute fresh rosemary for oregano, or add a garnish of torn- up fresh basil leaves.

113

flour

bread crumbs, rather than the usual wheat rusk, to impart the characteristic smooth texture. Making your own additive- free sausage mixture using meat from a reputable butcher means that you control the freshness, the fat content, and the all- important seasonings.

115

good hot or

cold, when it makes the best sandwiches teamed

with homemade crusty rice flour bread. Lacking

a 9 5- inch loaf pan, use an 8 4- inch standard pan and freeze the extra cup of meat mixture for meatballs or hamburgers.

this special-

occasion dish. All you have to do at the last minute is pop the prepared racks in a hot oven for 18

minutes. Unless you have an exceptional butcher, you will probably have to finish trimming the

lamb yourself: using a sharp paring knife, shave off every last vestige of fat, leaving just the bones with a nubbin of tender meat at the base. Be sure to have Rice Flour Bread Crumbs (page 134) on

hand for the crumb crust.

117

com-

fort food for a winter eve ning. Most recipes suggest dredging short ribs with flour before browning, which makes an awful mess. Instead, stir

brown rice flour into the softened onions.

Creamy polenta or mashed potatoes are a must

here.

119

casual entertaining,

succulent oxtail doesn’t require carving or fuss-ing over at the last minute, and doesn’t spoil if the meal has to wait. Cook it a day ahead, so you can remove the fat easily, and serve with mashed potatoes for absorbing the rich sauce.

121

crisp

bread crumbs offer flavor as well as texture to baked salmon fillets. Small specialty potatoes

such as fingerlings or Dutch Gold, boiled in their jackets, make a good accompaniment and are enhanced by the voluptuous sauce.

m u s t a r d a n d

c a p e r s a u c e

123

dish uses

any firm white fish fillets such as cod, orange roughy, or snapper.

to cook fish,

and there’s no pan to wash afterward. Aromatic

brown basmati rice complements the flavors and

textures of the halibut perfectly. The fish takes only 10 minutes to cook, so start the rice first. The recipe can be doubled with ease, but don’t try

baking more than four halibut packages at once

in the average home oven. The temperature will

drop too much under the onslaught and throw the timing off.

125

delicious when

cooked this way. Start cooking the rice while the shrimp marinate.

127

spread out flat

and broiled, skin side up to protect the tender flesh, they cook to a turn in just 5 minutes. As one whole butterflied trout covers an entire dinner plate, serve with homemade crusty rice flour bread and have a salad or green vegetable as a

separate course.

using

gluten- free flours was a challenge, but a rewarding one. Technically, the recipes that follow are all batter breads: the dough is mixed rather than kneaded, and all but one are raised with baking powder, not yeast. This means you can produce an aromatic, crusty loaf with a light, elastic crumb in about 30 minutes, even if you’ve never baked a loaf of bread in your life.

Based on the hearth breads of old, most of these loaves are quite small and relatively low, because gluten- free flours don’t form the weblike, airy structure that characterizes bread made with milled wheat and yeast. But what they lack in size they make up for in flavor, texture, and nutrition. Xanthan gum, a white powder derived from corn syrup, helps to promote a springy texture and retain moisture. True, these preservative- free breads don’t keep (neither do baguettes from a French bakery), but they freeze well.

bread is perfect with cheese

or with butter and jam for breakfast. Small,

round, and crusty, like

old-

fashioned hearth

breads, these loaves can be sliced across or split and quartered for sandwiches.

131

on page

131, this low, round loaf has a hundred uses, including pizza, melba toast, croutons, and—most important—bread crumbs. These are more valuable than gold in the wheat- free kitchen for breading, topping gratins, and making stuffings. This loaf is very good sliced and toasted under a broiler (don’t share the family toaster if it’s ever used for wheat products). The

biscotti-

shaped slices are

marvelous for dipping in soft-boiled eggs.

133

En glish muf-

fins owe much of their popularity to the amount of butter melting on their toasted surfaces; on their own, they’re far from interesting. These glutenfree En glish muffins, on the other hand, are worth nibbling even when unadorned. Suitably thick

but light and airy (the batter is rich with eggs), they have the requisite floury outer surface and holey interior, take only 10 minutes to bake, and toast beautifully. To make them, you’ll need muffin rings, or simply use recycled cat- food cans (the 61⁄2- ounce size) with the tops and bottoms removed. The recipe is easy to double.

135

flatbread on page

133 makes a good base for pizza. This goat cheese topping always wins approval, but of course you can use any pizza topping you like.

137

baguettes have a light and chewy interior thanks to beaten egg whites in the dough. Unusually, no xanthan gum is needed. The unbaked dough is

soft and needs support; to form these long loaves you will need a double baguette pan, which looks like an 18- inch-long drainpipe sliced in half verti-cally and stuck together to make a W. They can be found in most kitchenware shops.

For super sandwiches, split the baguettes,

spread with grainy Dijon mustard, and fill with Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa (page 89) and

mixed baby greens.

139

rye

bread, but more mellow, this close- grained dark bread is marvelous with cream cheese and Medjool dates . . . or cream cheese and smoked salmon . . . or unsalted butter and preserves.

141

bread in a preheated iron skillet, this whole- grain bread has a light, supple crumb. It bakes in just 12 minutes, and goes especially well with salads and cheese.

143

rustic loaf, this torpedo- shaped whole- grain loaf has a crisp crust, a soft crumb, and layers of enticing flavors. It toasts well, and makes excellent French toast.

are crusty on the outside and tender within. For a change of pace, you can replace the cornmeal

with buckwheat, chickpea, teff, or millet flour.

145

with a glass

of wine, this dappled gold disk falls somewhere between a soft, outsized Mexican tortilla and tender cheese pastry. Tear off chunks or, if this seems too casual, cut it into wedges. Serve plain or with salsa.

makes

good use of the flavorful olive oil from a jar of sun- dried tomatoes. If the tomatoes remaining in the jar are left high and dry, cover them with fresh olive oil.

147

traditions, there are

really two kinds of cookies: the satisfying cookie- with- a-glass- of- milk variety, and the smaller, more elegant kind that goes so well with a cup of tea or espresso, or provides a crunchy counterpoint to creamy desserts. Both types have their merits, both turn out exceptionally well when made with rice, teff, and nut flours, and both are eminently gift- worthy.

rich, these confections cause cookie lovers to

swoon. Use premium chocolate chips if possible.

Ghirardelli make some with 60 percent cocoa butter, and they are worth seeking out for their silky smoothness.

151

these are known

as brutti ma buoni (ugly but good). Quick and easy to make, they have crackly tops and chewy, rich interiors.

cookies are rolled in chopped

pecans before baking for additional crunch.

153

rise even though they contain no baking powder because tiny granules of cold butter melt as the cookies bake and make little air spaces.

way to get

the jam filling into these miniature jam tartlets is to use a disposable cone- shaped pastry bag or, failing that, a plastic bag with a small piece

snipped off one corner.

155

version is

more delicate than the usual jam- filled cookie. Be sure to choose jam without large chunks of fruit in it (raspberry and sieved apricot are good) or the top cookies may break when you press them

down. Naturally, you can also make flat cookies with this dough, in which case roll it 1⁄4 inch thick, and bake the cookies for about 12 minutes.

157

other reason for buying

teff flour, these spectacular, trufflelike brownies would be cause enough.

159

old- fashioned fudge, these satisfying, soft cookies are quickly mixed in a food pro cessor.

of this dense

and sticky gingerbread is irresistible. Adding

dates is probably gilding the lily, but they make a good thing even better.

161

California, so I make

gingerbread cows every holiday season instead of snowmen, and hang some of them on the Christ-mas tree. (One memorable year, a friend’s basset hound thought this was a super idea, so now I

place them higher up.) These crisp, German- style cookies can be left plain or decorated with frosting, and of course you can use any kind of cookie cutter you like. If you want to utilize your gingerbread cookies as tree decorations, make a hole in each one with a skewer before baking, and thread with ribbon after they cool.

163

wafers

with any creamy dessert, including French Choc-

olate Mousse (page 206), or Quick Mango Sor-

bet (page 207). You can also sandwich them to-

gether with melted dark chocolate, and enjoy with a cup of coffee.

Italian cookie, these

airy, delicate wafers go perfectly with espresso or ice cream. Pine nuts (pignoli) can be found in

natural foods stores and Italian groceries.

165

piecrust. Armed with a food pro-

cessor, a roll of plastic wrap, and a rolling pin, anyone can do it. And even experienced cooks (not to mention experienced eaters) are amazed by the tender qualities of pastry made with rice flour. There are two secrets. One is rolling the dough out between two sheets of plastic wrap, which not only keeps warm hands off it but avoids adding extra flour, which makes any pastry cardboard- y. The other secret is making sure that your creation is enjoyed soon after baking, so that the filling contrasts with the crisp pastry. The only exceptions are tarts filled with chopped or ground- nut mixtures, which will keep for two or three days without softening. Double- crust pies made with gluten- free pastry are also easy to achieve—I’ve included an apple pie, but you can use any fruit you like.

but the actual pro cess is quick. Set out everything you need beforehand except the butter, which

should be taken out of the refrigerator just before you use it. If you plan to make a savory quiche or tart, omit the sugar. This pastry is more fragile than the

wheat-

flour variety, with a delectable

crunch. The dough (or the semibaked shells) can be frozen.

169

171

a different way turn this tart into an elegant fi-nale for a holiday meal. Unlike creamy or

fruit- filled tarts, it will keep for two or three days in the refrigerator without the pastry shell losing its tender crispness. If you want to make a good thing even better, bake the tart without the pecan decoration, let cool, cover with the dark chocolate glaze used on the Chocolate Éclairs (page 196), arrange the pecan halves on top, and let stand until set.

173

top this scrumptious tart, which is claimed by the Swedes as an Alexandertorte, and by the En glish as a Bakewell Tart. Unlike creamy, filled tarts, this one will keep refrigerated for three days

without losing its crispness.

g l a z e s

Scottish recipe, the rich

fruit filling is balanced by a splash of raspberry vinegar. The tart will hold well, refrigerated, for three days. Should it last that long, which is un-likely. It also freezes well.

175

you can pat

into a pie pan or roll out, also makes a good base for a cheesecake.

good berry tart lies in the

contrast of crisp pastry and luscious filling. To be at its best, it should be enjoyed within a couple of hours of being made, except for the pastry shell, which you can bake ahead. Be sure to choose

small, sweet, aromatic strawberries, not the hard, tasteless ones with white centers so beloved by supermarkets for their shipping qualities and long shelf life.

177

or pasta frolla, is exceptionally tender. It’s easy to make in a food pro cessor, but should it start to become sticky while being rolled, just pop the

dough, pan and all, into the refrigerator for 10

minutes, then continue where you left off.

179

than

a New York–style cheesecake, this dessert is

based on a very old Roman specialty. Creamy but not cloying, it’s hard to resist seconds.

181

orange

peel seems to be available in grocery stores only during the holiday season. The supermarket kind isn’t worth buying, and the imported or

Eu ro pe an- style variety, though delicious, is wildly expensive. The alternative is to make your own.

Invaluable for baking, it can also be turned into a delightful after- dinner candy. Simply half dip the sugar- coated strips in melted dark chocolate, and let set.

183

that

you can make cookies with it, this piecrust provides just the right contrast for the tender fruit filling. As regular cornmeal is on the coarse side, I whirl it in a food pro cessor for 2 minutes to get a finer texture. To make cornmeal cookies, roll the dough 1⁄4 inch thick, and cut them out with a 21⁄2- inch cutter. Brush the cookies with cream or milk, and sprinkle with sugar before baking at

350°F until golden brown at the edges, about 15

minutes.

a double- crust pie,

here’s how to make one with a tempting gluten- free crust. Naturally, you can substitute 5 cups of any fruit filling you please, but shorten the baking time a little for soft summer fruits.

185

in being a wheat- free

cook is that your cakes are much lighter than anybody else’s. (Hint: professional pastry chefs choose low- gluten cake flour for a reason; using no- gluten flour goes one better.) And thanks to using nut flours, and eggs to make them rise as opposed to lots of baking powder, the cakes here even offer some good nutrition along with their enticing flavors and textures. Furthermore, since many of the premium quality ingredients are naturally sweet, you can get away with using far less sugar than usual.

cake (or five, if you count a dusting of powdered sugar) tastes sinfully rich, but contains no wheat flour, no egg yolks, no butter . . . and no cholesterol.

189

a favorite combination in Italian confectionery, puts this fudgy torta into the deluxe class.

191

cake in

texture but a trifle more substantial, this lofty cake contains a dash of espresso for a subtle

mocha flavor.

193

everyone—it’s such a perfect combination of moist, rum-infused chestnut cake, voluptuous chestnut

buttercream, and dark chocolate with just a touch of apricot. Be sure to allow enough resting time for frosting the cake: the jam glaze must dry a little before you add a coating of melted chocolate.

s i m p l e s y r u p

f i l l i n g

g l a z e

195

rice flour and tapi-

oca starch makes this pâte à

choux—the eggy

pastry dough used to make éclairs and cream

puffs—particularly light and tender. You’ll need a pastry/decorating bag for squeezing out the long, narrow shapes.

197

high- protein

ground almonds replace the anonymous white fat

and white flour found in most bakery items. The simple lemon glaze makes a tangy texture contrast, but if you prefer, you can dust the top with confectioners’ sugar.

199

fla-

vored with almond liqueur will delight marzipan fans. It goes especially well with poached dried apricots.

is manna

from heaven for people who have problems with

high cholesterol; they can’t believe it contains no butter and no egg yolks. And no wheat flour, of course. Be sure to use a very

mild-

flavored,

buttery- tasting, estate- grown olive oil—L’Estornel and Pons from Spain are both excellent, and

marry well with the orange zest and sherry fla-

vorings.

201

usual carrot cake,

this extra- light version lets the natural sweetness of almonds and carrots take center stage, with fresh ginger adding a grace note. A dollop of whipped cream with each slice is optional.

203

of fruitcake, this

one resembles a round, low pound cake well studded with walnuts, figs, dried cherries, and what En glish cooks poetically call “vine fruits.” There’s no sweet and sticky candied stuff dyed the color of traffic lights, and even the most suspicious find they really like it.

205

this luscious

dessert pairs beautifully with crisp vanilla wafers.

As a classic French chocolate mousse is made with raw eggs, I tinkered with tradition because I don’t fancy the idea of salmonella poisoning. Happily for us, Eggbeaters (and similar liquid egg substitutes), which are made from 99 percent egg whites, are sterilized and perfectly safe to eat. Serve with the Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers on page 164.

become

amazingly rich and creamy when pulverized in a

food pro cessor, and turn into a kind of sin- free ice cream. This sorbet is at its best when just made, but can be stored in the freezer. (Cover the surface with plastic wrap to prevent ice crystals from forming.) Frozen mango chunks are available at

most natural foods stores, Trader Joe’s, and some supermarkets. Serve with the Pine Nut Wafers on page 165.

207

Celiac Disease Foundation

13251 Ventura Boulevard, Suite 1

Studio City, CA 91604

Telephone: 818.990.2354

e-mail: cdf@celiac.org

www.celiac.org

Celiac Sprue Association (CSA/USA)

P.O. Box 31700

Omaha, NE 68131

Telephone: 877.CSA.4CSA

e-mail: celiacs@csaceliacs.org

www.csaceliacs.org

Gluten Intolerance Group of North America (GIG) 31214 124th Avenue SE

Auburn, WA 98092-3667

Telephone: 253.833.6655

e-mail: info@gluten.net

www.gluten.net

Canadian Celiac Association

5170 Dixie Road, Suite 204

Mississauga, ON L4W 1E3

Telephone: 800.363.7296

www.celiac.ca

Celiac Disease: A Hidden Epidemic, by Peter H. R. Green, M.D., Director of the Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University and Rory Jones (Collins, 2006).

The first authoritative guide on diagnosis, treatment, and management of celiac disease.

Essential reading for both patients and the medical community, this is a readable guide to understanding and coping with a serious condition that has been little known until now.

Gluten- Free Living

P.O. Box 375

Maple Shade, NJ 08052

Telephone: 800.324.8781

www.glutenfreeliving.com

A national, full- color magazine with reliable, well- researched information and articles relating to living well with celiac disease.

The Celiac Disease Center at Columbia University 212.305.5590

http://www.celiacdiseasecenter.columbia.edu

The Celiac Center at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center 617.667.1272

www.bidmc.harvard.edu

The University of Maryland Center for Celiac Research 410.328.6749 or 800.492.5538

http://celiaccenter.org

The University of Chicago Celiac Disease Center 773.702.7593

www.celiacdisease.net

Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods

5000 SE International Way

Milwaukie, OR 97222

Telephone: 800.349.2173

www.bobsredmill.com

Cream Hill Estates

9633 rue Clément

H8R 4B4

La Salle, Quebec, Canada

(gluten- free oats)

Telephone: 866.727.3628

www.creamhillestates.com

e-mail: info@creamhillestates.com

Empire Chestnut Company

3276 Empire Road SW

Carrollton, OH 44615- 9515

www.empirechestnut.com

Ener- G Foods

5960 First Avenue South

P.O. Box 84487

Seattle, WA 98124- 5787

www.ener- g.com

Telephone: 800.331.5222

e-mail: customerservice@ener-g.com

Gluten-Free Oats Company

578 Lane 9

Powell, WY 82435

Telephone: 307.754.2058

www.glutenfreeoats.com

King Arthur Flour Company

The Baker’s Store

135 Route 5 South

Norwich, VT 05055

Telephone: 800.827.6836

www.kingarthurflour.com

The Teff Company

Telephone toll- free: 888. 822. 2221

e-mail: info@teffco.com

www.teffco.com

American home cooks generally work with cups and tablespoons, ounces and pounds. The following metric equivalents will hopefully be of help to those who are not familiar with our system and conversely, assist American cooks who wish to convert a recipe that originated in another part of the world.

Remember that the weight of dry ingredients varies according to the volume or density factor: 1 cup of rice flour weighs far less than 1 cup of sugar.

Pie with a Rich Cornmeal Crust, 185–86

Almond(s)

Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25

almond flour, about, 8

Arrowroot starch, about, 9

almond meal, about, 8

Arugula and Goat Cheese, Rice Fettuccine

Amaretto Cake, 200

with, 70

Carrot-Ginger Cake, 203

Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and

Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and

Asparagus, 79–80

Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8

Asparagus

Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27

and Pork, Asian Stick Noodles with,

Jam Sandwich Cookies, 156–57

79–80

and Lemon Cake, 198–99

Rice Spirals with, 71

Nut Crumb Crust, 176

-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake, 32–33

-Raspberry Tart, 174

Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25

Bacon

Amaranth, about, 8

Millet, and Mushroom Risotto, 56

Amaretto Cake, 200

Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69

Appetizers and first courses

Baguettes

Chicken and Chestnut Soup, 99–100

Flaxseed and Chickpea, Quick, 144

Corn Fritters, 49

Rice Flour, 138–39

Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146

Beans. See Chickpea(s); Lentil(s)

Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43

Beef

Parmesan Puffs, 40–41

Braised Oxtail with Mushrooms, 121–22

Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64

Braised Short Ribs with Sun-Dried

Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44

Tomatoes, 119–20

Zucchini Fritters, 50

Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74

Apple(s)

Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116

Crumble, Spiced, 28–29

Ragù, 73–74

Bran, Rice, and Raisin Muffins, 24

Breads, 129–47

Cakes

Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146

Almond and Lemon, 198–99

Cornmeal and Sun-Dried Tomato Loaf, 147

Amaretto, 200

Crumbs, Rice Flour, 134

best cake pans for, 190

Flaxmeal Skillet, 143

Carrot-Ginger, 203

Goat Cheese Pizza with Rice Flour Crust,

Chocolate, Extra-Light, 193

137

Chocolate-Glazed Chestnut Gateau,

lining baking sheet for, 132

194–95

Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31

Chocolate-Hazelnut Truffle, 191

Quick Brown Rice Flour Flatbread, 131

Chocolate-Walnut, Four-Ingredient,

Quick Flaxseed and Chickpea Baguette,

189–90

144

Coffee, Almond-Plum Rice Flour, 32–33

Quick White Rice Flour Flatbread, 133–34

cooling, on cake racks, 195

Rice Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24

English Fruitcake, 204–5

Rice Flour Baguettes, 138–39

Walnut–Olive Oil Sponge, 201–2

Rice Flour English Muffins, 135–36

Cannelloni, Rice Flour, Gratinéed, 73–74

Rice Flour Focaccia, 137

Capon, Roast, with Chestnut and Sausage

Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145

Dressing, 103–4

Breakfast dishes, 19–33

Carrot(s)

Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake,

Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style,

32–33

91–92

Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26

-Ginger Cake, 203

Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27

Celery, peeling, 100

Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31

Celiac disease

Rice Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24

diagnosis of, 3

Rice Flour Crêpes, 22

dining out with, 3–4

Spiced Apple Crumble, 28–29

gluten-free shopping guidelines, 4–6

Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25

health risks from, 2–3

Yogurt–Rice Flour Pancakes, 21

skin conditions related to, 2–3

Brownies, Teff, 158

Cereal. See Muesli

Buckwheat

Cheddar

buckwheat flour, about, 9

Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72

Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41

Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146

Spaetzle, 81–82

Cheese

whole (groats), about, 9

Corn Macaroni and, 72

Burgers, Ostrich, with Red Wine Sauce, 109

and Cornmeal Shortbread, 146

Cream, –Strawberry Tart, 177

Livers, Risotto with, 60–61

firm, storing, 43

with Mushroom Stuffing, 94–95

Goat, and Arugula, Rice Fettuccine

and Quinoa Moroccan Style, 91–92

with, 70

Roast Capon with Chestnut and Sausage

Goat, and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39

Dressing, 103–4

Goat, Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137

Chickpea(s)

Hazelnut and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets,

chickpea flour, about, 10

85–86

Creamy Tomato and Egg Curry, 37

Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43

and Flaxseed Baguette, Quick, 144

Parmesan Puffs, 40–41

Lentils with, 51

Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69

in Middle Eastern dishes, 10

Ricotta Tart, 180–81

Chocolate

Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44

about, 10

Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé,

Cake, Extra-Light, 193

45–46

Chip–Peanut Butter Cookies, 151

Zucchini Fritters, 50

cocoa powder, about, 11

Cherries

dark, imported, substitute for, 192

English Fruitcake, 204–5

Éclairs, 196–97

Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175

-Glazed Chestnut Gateau, 194–95

Chestnut(s)

-Hazelnut Truffle Cake, 191

chestnut flour, about, 9

Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154

and Chicken Soup, 99–100

Mousse, French, 206

Gateau, Chocolate-Glazed, 194–95

–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies, 152

purée, buying, 102

Teff Brownies, 158

and Sausage Dressing, 105

types of, 10

whole, about, 9–10

-Walnut Cake, Four-Ingredient, 189–90

whole, buying, 102

Cocoa powder

whole, peeling, 102

Dutch-processed, about, 11

Chicken

natural, about, 11

breasts, grinding at home, 90

Coffee Cake, Almond-Plum Rice Flour,

breasts, slicing horizontally, 85–86

32–33

with Celery and Tarragon, 98

Cookies and bars, 149–65

in Chardonnay, 87–88

Almond Jam Sandwich Cookies,

and Chestnut Soup, 99–100

156–57

Cutlets, Hazelnut and Parmesan, 85–86

Chocolate–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies,

Ground, Roll with Quinoa, 89–90

152

Legs, Lemon-Parsley, 96–97

Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26

Cookies and bars ( continued)

Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27

Dates, Teff Gingerbread with, 161

Hazelnut-Raspberry Cookies, 155

Desserts

Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154

Almond and Lemon Cake, 198–99

lining baking sheet for, 132

Almond Jam Sandwich Cookies,

Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151

156–57

Pecan-Espresso Cookies, 153

Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake,

Pine Nut Wafers, 165

32–33

Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63

Almond-Raspberry Tart, 174

Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers, 164

Amaretto Cake, 200

Teff Brownies, 158

Apple Pie with a Rich Cornmeal Crust,

Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161

185–86

Corn. See also Cornmeal

Carrot-Ginger Cake, 203

about, 11

Chocolate Éclairs, 196–97

Fritters, 49

Chocolate-Glazed Chestnut Gateau,

Macaroni and Cheese, 72

194–95

Cornmeal

Chocolate-Hazelnut Truffle Cake, 191

about, 11

Chocolate–Pine Nut Meringue Cookies,

and Cheese Shortbread, 146

152

Flatbread, Yeast-Raised, 145

English Fruitcake, 204–5

Piecrust, Rich, 184

Extra-Light Chocolate Cake, 193

and Sun-Dried Tomato Loaf, 147

Four-Ingredient Chocolate-Walnut Cake,

Cornstarch, about, 11

189–90

Cream Cheese–Strawberry Tart, 177

French Chocolate Mousse, 206

Crêpes, Rice Flour, 22

Hazelnut-Raspberry Cookies, 155

Crust, Nut Crumb, 176

Hazelnut Zebra Cookies, 154

Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, Quinoa Salad

Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies,

with, 55

151

Currants

Pecan-Espresso Cookies, 153

English Fruitcake, 204–5

Pecan Tart, 172

Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and

Pine Nut Wafers, 165

Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8

Quick Mango Sorbet, 207

and Hazelnuts, Millet Pilaf with, 57

Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175

Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175

Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63

Rice, and Pine Nuts, Grape Leaf Rolls

Rice Flour Vanilla Wafers, 164

with, 62–63

Ricotta Tart, 180–81

Curry, Tomato and Egg, Creamy, 37

Spiced Apple Crumble, 28–29

Strawberry–Cream Cheese Tart, 177

Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice,

Teff Brownies, 158

125–26

Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161

Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream

Walnut–Olive Oil Sponge Cake,

Sauce, 123

201–2

Risotto with Scallops, 58–59

Dressing, Sausage and Chestnut, 105

Flaxseed(s)

Dumplings. See Spaetzle

about, 11–12, 142

and Chickpea Baguette, Quick, 144

flaxmeal, buying, 12, 142

Flaxmeal Skillet Bread, 143

Éclairs, Chocolate, 196–97

Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27

Egg(s)

grinding, for flaxmeal, 12, 142

Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced

health benefits from, 11–12, 142

Omelet, 39

Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41

Hard-Boiled, Perfectly Cooked, 38

storing, 12, 142

Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69

Flour, gluten-free. See also specific flour Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44

types

Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé,

almond, about, 8

45–46

Asian rice flour (starch), about, 15

and Tomato Curry, Creamy, 37

brown rice, about, 9

English Muffins, Rice Flour, 135–36

buckwheat, about, 9

Espresso-Pecan Cookies, 153

buying and storing, 7

chestnut, about, 9

chickpea, about, 10

garfava, about, 10

Fennel, Rice Pilaf with, 64

grinding your own, 8

Fettuccine, Rice, with Arugula and Goat

lentil, about, 12

Cheese, 70

millet, about, 13

Fig(s)

montina, about, 13

English Fruitcake, 204–5

nut, about, 13

-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26

oat, about, 13–14

Fish and shellfish

potato, about, 14

Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper

quinoa, about, 14

Sauce, 128

soy, about, 15

Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127

sweet rice (starch), about, 16

Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with

teff, about, 16

Quinoa, 124

white rice, about, 9

Focaccia, Rice Flour, 137

Gruyère

Frittata, Spinach and Zucchini, 44

-Onion Tart, 42–43

Fritters

Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé,

Corn, 49

45–46

Zucchini, 50

Fruitcake, English, 204–5

Halibut

in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice, 125–26

Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and

Tomato, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa, 124

Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8

Ham

Garbanzo flour, about, 10

Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66

Garfava flour, about, 10

Harissa Sauce, 92

Gingerbread, Teff, with Dates, 161

Hazelnut(s)

Gingerbread Cows, Rice Flour, 162–63

-Chocolate Truffle Cake, 191

Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27

and Currants, Millet Pilaf with, 57

Gluten-free shopping, 4–5

and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets, 85–86

foods “maybe” permitted, 5–6

-Raspberry Cookies, 155

foods not permitted, 6

Zebra Cookies, 154

foods permitted, 4–5

Herbes de Provence Blend, 101

Goat Cheese

Honeyed Yogurt, 29

and Arugula, Rice Fettuccine

with, 70

Pizza with Rice Flour Crust, 137

and Potato Open-Faced Omelet, 39

Kasha (groats), about, 9

Grains. See also Buckwheat; Millet; Quinoa; Rice; Teff

amaranth, about, 8

montina/montina flour, about, 13

Lamb, Rack of, with Herbed Crumb Crust,

oats and oat flour, about, 13–14

117–18

sorghum (milo), about, 15

Lemon and Almond Cake, 198–99

Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and

Lemon-Parsley Chicken Legs, 96–97

Pine Nuts, 62–63

Lentil(s)

Gratin, Halibut, Tomato, and Caper, with

with Chickpeas, 51

Quinoa, 124

lentil flour, about, 12

Grocery shopping. See Gluten-free

varieties of, 12

shopping

Livers, Chicken, Risotto with, 60–61

Chicken with Mushroom Stuffing, 94–95

Macaroni, Corn, and Cheese, 72

Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and

Main dishes (grains)

Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8

Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and

Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa, 89–90

Pine Nuts, 62–63

Hazelnut and Parmesan Chicken Cutlets,

Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56

85–86

Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66

Lemon-Parsley Chicken Legs, 96–97

Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64

Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109

Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61

Roast Capon with Chestnut and Sausage

Risotto with Scallops, 58–59

Dressing, 103–4

Main dishes (meat)

Main dishes (seafood)

Braised Oxtail with Mushrooms, 121–22

Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper

Braised Short Ribs with Sun-Dried

Sauce, 128

Tomatoes, 119–20

Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127

English Pork Sausage Patties, 115

Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with

Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116

Quinoa, 124

Pork Chops and Baked Polenta with

Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice,

Peppers, 113–14

125–26

Rack of Lamb with Herbed Crumb Crust,

Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream

117–18

Sauce, 123

Main dishes (pasta)

Main dishes (vegetarian)

Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and

Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82

Asparagus, 79–80

Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72

Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82

Creamy Tomato and Egg Curry, 37

Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72

Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced

Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74

Omelet, 39

Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat

Grape Leaf Rolls with Rice, Currants, and

Cheese, 70

Pine Nuts, 62–63

Rice Pappardelle with Mushroom Sauce,

Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat

77–78

Cheese, 70

Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69

Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64

Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71

Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71

Main dishes (poultry)

Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44

Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style,

Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan Soufflé,

91–92

45–46

Chicken in Chardonnay, 87–88

Mango Sorbet, Quick, 207

Chicken with Celery and Tarragon, 98

Manioc flour. See Tapioca starch

Meat. See Beef; Lamb; Pork; Veal

Pine, –Chocolate Meringue Cookies, 152

Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116

Pine, Rice, and Currants, Grape Leaf Rolls

Meringue Cookies, Chocolate–Pine Nut, 152

with, 62–63

Millet

Pine, Wafers, 165

millet flour, about, 13

Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56

Pilaf with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57

serving ideas, 13

Oats and oat flour, about, 13–14

Modified food starch, 5

Omelet, Goat Cheese and Potato Open-Faced,

Molasses

39

Gingerbread-Flax Bars, 27

Onion-Gruyère Tart, 42–43

Rice Flour Gingerbread Cows, 162–63

Orange Peel, Candied, 182–83

Teff Gingerbread with Dates, 161

Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce, 109

Montina/montina flour, about, 13

Oxtail, Braised, with Mushrooms, 121–22

Mousse, French Chocolate, 206

Muesli, Toasted Quinoa, 25

Muffins

Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31

Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66

Rice Bran and Raisin, 24

Pancakes

Mushroom(s)

Cornmeal and Cheese Shortbread, 146

Braised Oxtail with, 121–22

Yogurt–Rice Flour, 21

Chicken in Chardonnay, 87–88

Pancetta

Millet, and Bacon Risotto, 56

Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69

Sauce, Rice Pappardelle with, 77–78

Pappardelle, Rice, with Mushroom Sauce,

Stuffing, Chicken with, 94–95

77–78

Mustard and Caper Sauce, 123

Parchment paper, for baking sheets, 132

Parmesan

and Hazelnut Chicken Cutlets, 85–86

Puffs, 40–41

Noodles, Asian Stick, with Pork and

Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69

Asparagus, 79–80

and Sun-Dried Tomato Soufflé, 45–46

Nut(s). See also Almond(s); Chestnut(s); Zucchini Fritters, 50

Hazelnut(s); Pecan(s); Walnut(s)

Pasta, 67–82

buying and storing, 7

Asian Stick Noodles with Pork and

ground, for baked goods, 13

Asparagus, 79–80

health benefits from, 13

Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82

nut flours, about, 13

Corn Macaroni and Cheese, 72

Fresh Rice Flour Egg, 75–76

Quinoa, with Red Peppers, 52

gluten-free, types of, 5

Rice, with Fennel, 64

Rice Fettuccine with Arugula and Goat

Pine Nut(s)

Cheese, 70

–Chocolate Meringue Cookies, 152

Rice Pappardelle with Mushroom Sauce,

Currants, and Rice, Grape Leaf Rolls with,

77–78

62–63

Rice Spaghetti alla Carbonara, 69

Wafers, 165

Rice Spirals with Asparagus, 71

Pizza, Goat Cheese, with Rice Flour Crust,

Pasta Frolla, Rice Flour, 179

137

Pastry dough

Polenta, Baked, and Pork Chops with

Rice Flour Pasta Frolla, 179

Peppers, 113–14

Rice Flour Tart Shell, 169–71

Poppy Seed and Citrus Loaf, 30–31

Rich Cornmeal Piecrust, 184

Pork. See also Bacon

Peanut Butter

and Asparagus, Asian Stick Noodles with,

–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151

79–80

–Teff Fudge Cookies, 160

Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 105

Pecan(s)

Chops and Baked Polenta with Peppers,

-Espresso Cookies, 153

113–14

Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26

Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116

Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream

Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66

Sauce, 123

Sausage Patties, English, 115

Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies, 151

Potato(es)

Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44

and Goat Cheese Open-Faced Omelet, 39

Tart, 172

Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66

Toasted Quinoa Muesli, 25

potato flour, about, 14

Peppers

potato starch, about, 14

bell, broiling and peeling, 53

Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44

Pork Chops and Baked Polenta with,

Poultry, 83–109. See also Chicken

113–14

Game Hens with Roasted Tomatoes and

Red, Quinoa Pilaf with, 52

Orange Rice Pilaf, 107–8

Pie, Apple, with a Rich Cornmeal Crust,

Ostrich Burgers with Red Wine Sauce,

185–86

109

Piecrusts. See Crust; Pastry dough

Prunes

Pilaf

Almond-Plum Rice Flour Coffee Cake,

Millet, with Currants and Hazelnuts, 57

32–33

Orange Rice, and Roasted Tomatoes, Game

English Fruitcake, 204–5

Hens with, 107–8

Raisin-Walnut Tart, 175

Pilaf with Fennel, 64

Quinoa

Risotto with Chicken Livers, 60–61

about, 14, 54

Risotto with Scallops, 58–59

buying, 54

Saffron, Garlic Shrimp with, 127

and Chicken Moroccan Style, 91–92

varieties of, 14–15

cooking, 93

wild, about, 16

-Fig Breakfast Bars, 26

Rice Flour

flakes, about, 14, 54

Baguettes, 138–39

Ground Chicken Roll with, 89–90

Bread Crumbs, 134

Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with,

brown, about, 9, 23

124

brown, buying and storing, 23

Meat Loaf with, 116

Brown, Flatbread, Quick, 131

Pilaf with Red Peppers, 52

Crêpes, 22

quinoa flour, about, 14, 54

Egg Pasta, Fresh, 75–76

rinsing, 54

English Muffins, 135–36

Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and Mint, 55

Flaxmeal Skillet Bread, 143

Toasted, Muesli, 25

Focaccia, 137

Rustic Seed Bread, 140–41

white, about, 9, 15

White, Flatbread, Quick, 133–34

Ragù Sauce, 73–74

Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145

Raisin(s)

–Yogurt Pancakes, 21

English Fruitcake, 204–5

Rice flour, Asian, about, 15

and Rice Bran Muffins, 24

Rice flour, sweet (starch), about, 16

-Walnut Tart, 175

Ricotta Tart, 180–81

Raspberry (jam)

Risotto

-Almond Tart, 174

with Chicken Livers, 60–61

-Hazelnut Cookies, 155

Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon, 56

Rice. See also Rice Flour

with Scallops, 58–59

Bran and Raisin Muffins, 24

Brown Basmati, Halibut in Foil with,

125–26

Currants, and Pine Nuts, Grape Leaf Rolls

Salad, Quinoa, with Cucumber, Tomato, and

with, 62–63

Mint, 55

Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66

Salmon, Nut-Crusted, with Mustard Cream

Pilaf, Orange, and Roasted Tomatoes, Game

Sauce, 123

Hens with, 107–8

Sandwich Cookies, Almond Jam, 156–57

Sauces

Rice Pilaf with Fennel, 64

Harissa, 92

Zucchini Fritters, 50

Mustard and Caper, 123

Sorbet, Quick Mango, 207

Ragù, 73–74

Sorghum (milo), about, 15

Sausage(s)

Soufflé, Sun-Dried Tomato and Parmesan,

and Chestnut Dressing, 105

45–46

Paella, La Mancha Style, 65–66

Soup, Chicken and Chestnut, 99–100

Pork, Patties, English, 115

Soy flour, about, 15

Scallops, Risotto with, 58–59

Spaetzle, Buckwheat, 81–82

Seafood

Spaghetti, Rice, alla Carbonara, 69

Five-Minute Trout with Crispy Caper

Spinach and Zucchini Frittata, 44

Sauce, 128

Squash. See Zucchini

Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127

Strawberry–Cream Cheese Tart, 177

Halibut, Tomato, and Caper Gratin with

Quinoa, 124

Halibut in Foil with Brown Basmati Rice,

125–26

Tapioca starch, about, 16

Nut-Crusted Salmon with Mustard Cream

Tarts

Sauce, 123

Almond-Raspberry, 174

Risotto with Scallops, 58–59

Onion-Gruyère, 42–43

Seed Bread, Rustic, 140–41

Pecan, 172

Shellfish

Raisin-Walnut, 175

Garlic Shrimp with Saffron Rice, 127

Ricotta, 180–81

Risotto with Scallops, 58–59

Strawberry–Cream Cheese, 177

Shortbread, Cornmeal and Cheese, 146

unmolding, from tart or quiche pan,

Shrimp, Garlic, with Saffron Rice, 127

173

Side dishes

Tart Shell(s)

Buckwheat Spaetzle, 81–82

prebaked, troubleshooting, 171

Chestnut and Sausage Dressing, 105

prebaking, 170–71

Corn Fritters, 49

Rice Flour, 169–71

Lentils with Chickpeas, 51

Teff

Millet, Mushroom, and Bacon Risotto, 56

Brownies, 158

Millet Pilaf with Currants and

Gingerbread with Dates, 161

Hazelnuts, 57

health benefits from, 159

Quinoa Pilaf with Red Peppers, 52

–Peanut Butter Fudge Cookies, 160

Quinoa Salad with Cucumber, Tomato, and

teff flour, about, 16, 159

Mint, 55

teff seeds, about, 16, 159

Tomato(es)

–Olive Oil Sponge Cake, 201–2

Cucumber, and Mint, Quinoa Salad with,

Peanut Butter–Chocolate Chip Cookies,

55

151

and Egg Curry, Creamy, 37

-Raisin Tart, 175

Gratinéed Rice Flour Cannelloni, 73–74

Teff Brownies, 158

Halibut, and Caper Gratin with Quinoa,

Wax paper, for baking sheets, 132

124

Wheat allergies

Ragù, 73–74

dining out with, 3–4

Roasted, and Orange Rice Pilaf, Game

gluten-free shopping guidelines, 4–6

Hens with, 107–8

physical reactions to, 2

Sun-Dried, and Cornmeal Loaf, 147

Wild rice, about, 16

Sun-Dried, and Parmesan Soufflé, 45–46

Sun-Dried, Braised Short Ribs with,

119–20

Trout, Five-Minute, with Crispy Caper Sauce,

Yeast-Raised Cornmeal Flatbread, 145

128

Yogurt

Greek, about, 177–78

Greek, making at home, 178

Honeyed, 29

Vanilla Wafers, Rice Flour, 164

–Rice Flour Pancakes, 21

Veal

English Pork Sausage Patties, 115

Meat Loaf with Quinoa, 116

Zanthan gum, 17

Zucchini

Chicken and Quinoa Moroccan Style,

Walnut(s)

91–92

-Chocolate Cake, Four-Ingredient, 189–90

Fritters, 50

English Fruitcake, 204–5

Ground Chicken Roll with Quinoa, 89–90

Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars, 26

and Spinach Frittata, 44

I owe a huge debt of thanks to all those who helped to transform this book from a jumble of recipes into reality. In particular, I’d like to thank Chuck Williams, mentor and friend for over three decades, for wise counsel and encouragement, my stellar literary agent, Carole Bidnick, and my very special editors at HarperCollins/William Morrow, Harriet Bell and Jennifer Civiletto.

Thank you all for having faith in me and for your unfailingly good advice. My gratitude goes also to five enthusiastic recipe testers: Laura Martin Bacon, cookie queen and fellow food-and-cookware writer; Dianne Jacobs, author of the indispensable Will Write for Food (Marlowe & Company, 2005); Anna Noelle Rockwell, fine equine artist and fellow dressage rider; Ellen Switkes, indefatigable organizer of the Oakland/San Francisco celiac support group; and Elaine Taylor, cofounder and president of The Taylor Family Foundation, a non-profit organization that makes an incalculable difference to the lives of sick children. In addition, I would like to express my heartfelt appreciation to photographer Judi Swinks and stylist Nani Steele, whose creativity and talent speak for themselves in this new edition of The Wheat-Free Cook.

COPYRIGHT

A hardcover edition of this book was published in 2007 by William Morrow, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers.

THE WHEAT-FREE COOK. Copyright © 2007 by Jacqueline Mallorca. Illustrations copyright © 2007 by Jacqueline Mallorca. Photographs copyright © 2009 by Judi Swinks. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

AER Edition © January 2009 ISBN: 9780061863998

Photographs were unavailable for the electronic edition.

First William Morrow paperback edition published 2009.

The Library of Congress has cataloged the hardcover edition as follows: Mallorca, Jacqueline.

The wheat-free cook: gluten-free recipes for everyone / Jacqueline Mallorca.

p. cm.

ISBN: 978-0-06-111988-0

ISBN-10: 0-06-111988-1

1. Gluten-free diet. 2. Gluten-free diet–Recipes.

RM237.86 .M35 2007

641.5/638 22

2006046155

ISBN 978-0-06-166340-6 (pbk.)

09 10 11 12 13

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Document Outline

- Title Page

- Dedication

- Contents

- Introduction

- Gluten-Free Grains, Flours, and other ingredients

- Breakfast

- Egg and Cheese

- Vegetables and grains

- Pasta

- Brids

- Meat and Seafood

- Breads

- Cookies and Bars

- Tarts and Pies

- Cakes and Desserts

- Gluten Intolerance Information/Resources

- Mail-Order Suppliers of Gluten-Free Flours, Grains, Nuts, and Other Groceries

- Metric Conversions

- Index

- Acknowledgments

- Copyright

- About the Publisher

Table of Contents

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Unnamed

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copyright

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ABOUT THE PUBLISHER